Modern Contrast Vs. Old Contrast

I'm a cartoonist who works primarily in black and white and greyscale, and for the longest time I used an old copy of Photoshop CS2. I upgraded to CS5 not too long ago, and I've been constantly frustrated by the brightness/contrast tool. It just doesn't work like it used to, and I need it to! The problem is with the parts of my pictures that are grey, and the parts that are black. Or rather, the parts that are supposed to be black! Modern Photoshop insists on preserving the vague inconsistencies in the marker strokes on the paper, the parts that aren't quite as black as the other parts. It just won't let me attain large areas of 100% blackness!
I still use that old CS2 program on a secondary computer in another location, and it's easy for me to get areas of total black without compromising the delicate Prismacolor greys in other areas. With CS5, however, I have to increase the contrast to maximum at least three times before the black parts become... well, black! Which, of course, washes out the greys. With the old Photoshop, all I had to do was crank it to about 40% and I'd get nice sharp blacks without losing much of my shading. Now I usually have to use the polygonal lasso to manually select spaces and fill them in, because it's too much to just contrast everything enough to get solid blacks!
Is there any way to get the contrast to behave like it used to? Or is there some other tool I can use? I really don't know what levels, curve, and exposure are. Will I have to learn an entirely new way of altering my pictures before I get the simple efficiency I had three Photoshops ago?

Check Use Legacy and see if that works like cs2.
MTSTUNER

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A/B Color contrast in develop module

It would be really nice to hace a slider (or three, I'll explain) for "color contrast".
Threre is "contrast" slider that influences the luminosity basically. What I would want to have is a way to control color contrast while preserving luminosity as well as preserve color balance.
A single slider implementation
Basically the simplest way (but a bit crude) to do it would be with a single slider.
The slider defaults to 0.
Moving it to the right would be equivalent to the following photoshop procedure:
Change mode to LAB
Curve adjustment
Steepen both the A and B curves linearly (pull extreme points in and leave the curve straight, plus keep the center where it is to preserve color balance)
Leave the L curve alone
Apply
switch mode back to RGB
Moving it left would be the same, except the AB curves would be made shallower rather than steeper (rotate the curve clockwise instead of counter clockwise about the center)
A two slider implementation
Same as the above, except that you would have separate A and B sliders (you might call the tint contrast and temp contrast to be consistent with the color balance sliders, which are just like moving the center point of the AB curves)
A three slider implementation
Basically this is like having bothe the one slider ("overall color contrast") and the two sliders ("temperature contrast" and "tint contrast"). It's a bit redundant but having the single control there makes it easier when you simply want to globally increase the color contrast without being too picky about the two separate controls (I guess easier for beginners)

Not at all. The saturation control has quite a different effect that this, and much les subtle. Saturation just increases saturation without changing the hue. This actually changes the hue causing a separation in hues that is impossible to achive in any manuver you would to in RGB space. It drives colors apart rather than increasing their chroma.
Try it yourself on a few images (especially on images that have nearly uniform color, such as deserts or faces. You will see that this is an entirelty different thing than saturation.

Adjusting contrast on grayscale pdf image

On Photoshop 6.0 I was able to adjust the contrast of a grayscale pdf image by going to image-adjustments-brightness/contrast,increasing the contrast, hitting ok. I could then save the image file. I just obtained Photoshop CS3 and things do not work that way. I do not see any change when I increase the contrast. However, I see an increase in contrast when I lower the brightness, but when I click ok, the contrast goes back to where it was.
How do I increase the contrast and save the image?

I'm sure I've asked this before, but why don't you use code tags?

Contrast slider vs. tone/point curve

What is the difference between adding contrast with the contrast slider and using the tone curve? I've noticed that I prefer a default contrast slider setting of about 10 (I shoot mostly portraits), and then using the tone curve to create more subtle tonal changes. But I'm curious to know exactly what's happening under the hood.
Thanks.

I'm reviving this thread and hope that someone knowledgable might shed some light.
The way I'm thinking, the tone sliders affects the image in the same way as control points on a curve will. And anyone who has played with many points and extreme settings on a tone curve have seen how easily you can get lost and a reset is the only way to recover.
So I'm a bit cautious when riding the sliders, afraid that f.ex a combination of a lot of fill light and much blacks wil take the curve somewhere it's impossible to recover from. I guess maybe I would like to see a curve and how it is affected by my sliders. To keep me from getting into trouble, i.e pointy, squiggly curve.
I hope this makes sense to someone.

How can I use an old XMP file on a new set of images??

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<x:xmpmeta xmlns:x="adobe:ns:meta/" x:xmptk="Adobe XMP Core 4.2-c020 1.124078, Tue Sep 11 2007 23:21:40
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<rdf:RDF xmlns:rdf="http://www.w3.org/1999/02/22-rdf-syntax-ns#">
<rdf:Description rdf:about=""
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   <crs:ProcessVersion>5.7</crs:ProcessVersion>
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   <crs:Sharpness>25</crs:Sharpness>
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   <crs:ColorNoiseReduction>25</crs:ColorNoiseReduction>
   <crs:ChromaticAberrationR>0</crs:ChromaticAberrationR>
   <crs:ChromaticAberrationB>0</crs:ChromaticAberrationB>
   <crs:VignetteAmount>0</crs:VignetteAmount>
   <crs:ShadowTint>-1</crs:ShadowTint>
   <crs:RedHue>0</crs:RedHue>
   <crs:RedSaturation>0</crs:RedSaturation>
   <crs:GreenHue>0</crs:GreenHue>
   <crs:GreenSaturation>0</crs:GreenSaturation>
   <crs:BlueHue>0</crs:BlueHue>
   <crs:BlueSaturation>0</crs:BlueSaturation>
   <crs:FillLight>0</crs:FillLight>
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   <crs:Clarity>+8</crs:Clarity>
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   <crs:HueAdjustmentRed>0</crs:HueAdjustmentRed>
   <crs:HueAdjustmentOrange>0</crs:HueAdjustmentOrange>
   <crs:HueAdjustmentYellow>0</crs:HueAdjustmentYellow>
   <crs:HueAdjustmentGreen>0</crs:HueAdjustmentGreen>
   <crs:HueAdjustmentAqua>0</crs:HueAdjustmentAqua>
   <crs:HueAdjustmentBlue>0</crs:HueAdjustmentBlue>
   <crs:HueAdjustmentPurple>0</crs:HueAdjustmentPurple>
   <crs:HueAdjustmentMagenta>0</crs:HueAdjustmentMagenta>
   <crs:SaturationAdjustmentRed>0</crs:SaturationAdjustmentRed>
   <crs:SaturationAdjustmentOrange>0</crs:SaturationAdjustmentOrange>
   <crs:SaturationAdjustmentYellow>0</crs:SaturationAdjustmentYellow>
   <crs:SaturationAdjustmentGreen>0</crs:SaturationAdjustmentGreen>
   <crs:SaturationAdjustmentAqua>0</crs:SaturationAdjustmentAqua>
   <crs:SaturationAdjustmentBlue>0</crs:SaturationAdjustmentBlue>
   <crs:SaturationAdjustmentPurple>0</crs:SaturationAdjustmentPurple>
   <crs:SaturationAdjustmentMagenta>0</crs:SaturationAdjustmentMagenta>
   <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentRed>0</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentRed>
   <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentOrange>0</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentOrange>
   <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentYellow>0</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentYellow>
   <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentGreen>0</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentGreen>
   <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentAqua>0</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentAqua>
   <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentBlue>0</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentBlue>
   <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentPurple>0</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentPurple>
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<rdf:Seq>
<rdf:li>0, 0</rdf:li>
<rdf:li>32, 22</rdf:li>
<rdf:li>64, 56</rdf:li>
<rdf:li>128, 128</rdf:li>
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</rdf:Description>
</rdf:RDF>
</x:xmpmeta>

I’m pretty sure Adobe NEVER intended for someone to copy an XMP file from one photo to another outside of LR as a way to replicate settings.   You can make a preset from a photo, as discussed, or if you don’t want to do that, copy-paste the settings from a representative photo that you initially select to one or more new photos. You could have a special LR folder that holds standard photos to copy/paste from. Of course creating a Develop preset from the representative photo is the “normal” way to handle such situations, but maybe you have hundreds of different situations to copy settings from and don’t want to create presets for each one, but I’d argue that you could create a complex folder hierarchy for your presets and still have them findable without that much problem.
As far as the mystery about why some photos show Reset and some show From Metadata, is the Process Version (down in Camera Calibration) of the photo before reading the settings the same between the two situations? And in general, are these virgin photos newly imported into LR or have some been modified in LR, already? Does an XMP file already exist for any of these, where that XMP is being overwritten by your external-to-LR copying? Or do you have auto-write-XMP enabled and your hand-copied XMP is getting overwritten by LR, automatically, before you have a chance to read in anything?

Brand New IMAC 27 overheats

Greetings to all from Chicago!
Just purchased a brand new IMAC (27 inch, 2.93GHZ QUAD-CORE INTELCORE I7, 8GB 1333MHZ DDR3 SDRAM - 2X4GB, ATI RADEON HD 5750 1GB GDDR5).
Previously had 24 Inch MAC (plastic on the back which is the point of my comparison. It still stand right next to the new one so I can compare.
The new Machine gets so hot that you can burn your hand. I am only running Logic Pro and Internet (same as on the old Machine). Measured via ISTAT PRO, the machine boots at at 25-28 Celsius (CPU temperature), then quickly warms up to 45-50 Celsius. It maxes out at 65-70 Celsius and stays there, NO MATTER which programs are ran. At that point, you can't even touch the top of the computer.
By contrast, my old IMAC 24 inch, stays cool, noiseless and never goes beyond 40-45 Celsius, when the same apps (Logic + intenet) run.
What should I do? Are all new IMACS like this? Is this because of the aluminum back? Shall I return it and wait for next year's model? Exchange? Repair? ( I have Apple Care). Here is how Apple advertised the new IMACS:
Cool, quiet components
"The widescreen iMac display allows more room to separate the two hottest components, the CPU and the GPU. This keeps things cool inside the iMac enclosure. Apple engineers also implemented an intelligent control system that monitors temperatures and delivers just the right amount of airflow to critical components. And the three fans inside iMac have been tuned to be ultraquiet. The result of all this tinkering with heat and sound? A system that operates at 18 decibels when idle — so quiet, you hardly know it’s on.*
Well, the reality is that it is a lot nosier and heats up a lot more than the predecessor, unless I have a defected unit.
Thanks in advance for all the input and recommendations
Cheers,

the components of the imac ARE cool & quiet, compared to other components. but don't make the mistake to think this means the imac is cool: it's an all-in-one-design, which just means it will get pretty hot, that's only natural. still, compared to normal computer components, the imac hardware is pretty cool, but that doesn't mean the case has to be cool. mine can get pretty hot too. I don't burn my hands, but it's painful to keep the hand on it.
as for the temperatures: 40-50 degrees celsius are normal for the CPU temp, everything above seems unnormal to me when your computer is idleling. what you didn't mention was your air temperature. are you dealing with hot weather currently?
anyway, also make sure in activity monitor no process is running wild and uses CPU. remember that the i7 has 8 cores, so 12% CPU usage actually means that one core runs at full speed!
besides that, if you have normal weather and no process runs wild and your CPU temp still goes over 50 degrees, I would call apple and they will likely exchange your imac

Fed Up with Aperture

This is my last shot at getting Aperture 3 to work for me.
Despite the good efforts and advice of folks here in the Community, and conversations with Apple, I can't get the **** thing to work correctly with Photoshop. Or, I am not using it correctly. Either way, this should not happen:
Doing everything by the book, using Photo> Edit in Photoshop CS4 >Save (in PS), this is what I get back in Aperture. The icons say it's been externally edited, but no editing appears. Sometimes the PS file comes back as an "Unsupported File Format," sometimes it comes back but without the editing as in this example.
Maybe if I shot only in JPEG and edited only inside Aperture, everything would work; but I will continue using Photoshop for layer blending and compositing RAW images, and Aperture obviously cannot deal with that process.
If anyone can intuit what's going wrong, or what I might be doing wrong, I welcome any suggestions before I junk the whole project and go back my old workflow. The only suggestion I get from Apple support is that I need to upgrade to CS6, but spending another $500 to use Aperture is out of the question.
Right now am fed up with spending time and effort editing only to see that work simply disappear into some digital black hole. Thanks for reading and any suggestions,
Brian

Kirby, thanks for the response.
Specifically, the workflow looks like this:
RAW (ORF) > Aperture > Photo > Edit in Photoshop CS4
CS4>
2013-08-06 13:13:56
File 2013-07-20__BAL1953_703.psd opened
Image Size
Height: 11.52 inches
Resolution: 300 per inch
With Scale Styles
With Constrain Proportions
Interpolation: bicubic
Crop
To: rectangle
Top: 0 inches
Left: 0 inches
Bottom: 10 inches
Right: 8 inches
To: none
Dfine 2
Flatten Image
Sharpener Pro 3: (1) RAW Presharpener
Sharpener Pro 3: (1) RAW Presharpener
Flatten Image
Flatten Image
Black & White 1 Layer
Make adjustment layer
Merge Layers
Smart Sharpen
Smart Sharpen
Amount: 79%
Radius: 0.7 pixels
Blending Change
Set current layer
To: layer
Mode: multiply
To: layer
Opacity: 70%
Shadows/Highlights
Shadow/Highlight
Shadow: Parameters
Amount: 66%
Tone Width: 66%
Brightness/Contrast 1 Layer
To: brightness/contrast
Brightness: 62
Contrast: 30
Select layer “Black & White 1”
Modification: Add
Without Make Visible
Merge Layers
Image Size
Width: 7.25 inches
With Scale Styles
With Constrain Proportions
Interpolation: bicubic
2013-08-06 13:28:46
File 2013-07-20__BAL1953_703.psd saved

Is anyone successfully using an LG monitor?

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In contrast, our old Samsung 193P, which I still use, was a snap to calibrate, never a problem and still looks better and shows more accurate color than the new mid-priced monitors I've seen. I have looked at dozens of them, all on PCs of course, and I liked the LG and the HP best. My desktop location rules out the super-glossy screen, so that leaves the LG. A big attraction of LG is their 48 hour replacement warranty. Two days certainly beats two months, if true.
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IPhone 5S background and telephone key pad - hard to see

I have seen a number of blogs complaining about the background on the new iPhone. It is extremely difficult to see. The telelphone key pad is so faint with no contrast what so ever. The only way that I have found to make it easier to read is to switch it which turns it all black. The key pad is easier to see but everything else looks awful
Is there a way to go back to the old contrast and view? Or, is there a way to adjust the background so that it is easier to ready.
This is very frustrating.....

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Very slow printing to default Adobe PDF printer

I have a 150 page FrameMaker document (with lots of linked Illustrator CS4 files) that is taking 7 MINUTES to print to the default Adobe PDF printer. In contrast, an old QuickSilver / Interleaf document that is 200 pages long and contains even more graphics embedded as huge TIF files, takes 20 seconds to print to the same default Adobe PDF printer.
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My computer
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Version2002
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Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4CPU 3.00GHz
2.99GHz, 3.25GB of RAM
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Using Adobe Design Premium CS3 (I use AI files, we always have for any vector files and way to many to change over to EPS.)
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ls

[solved] Optibay SSD/HDD error with SATA2/3 drive in late 2011 model

Hi,
I'd like to post just in case someone else stumbles over this problem: I have a late 2011 model MacBook Pro. Some of them are equipped with DVD drives (or rather connectors) that allow 6GB/s (SATA III), others only allow 3GB/s (SATA II). I happen to have one of the SATA III models (check About this Mac > More information > System report > SATA; in my case it says "link speed: 6GB/s").
When I upgraded my system drive to SSD I chose to go the optibay route - taking out the DVD drive and replacing it with a caddy so I can use my old HDD in it. Unfortunately afterwards I couldn't write or do anything with the HDD. I just got a Finder error -50. I tried formatting but that didn't work and messed up the whole situation. When I tried to delete the partion with disk utility I got an error "Partition failed with error. Wiping volume data to prevent future accidental probing failed." (for German users, so Google's their friend as well: Auf Deutsch heißt diese Fehlermeldung im Festplattendienstprogramm "Das Entfernen der Volumendaten zum Verhindern zukünftiger unbeabsichtigter Überprüfungen ist fehlgeschlagen").
Changing positions of HDD and SSD appearently is a bad idea because people got beachballs and freezes and all kinds of things. I finally resolved my problem by buying another caddy (=optibay) that was specifically only for SATA 2 (although my system report tells me I could use SATA 3...); in contrast my old caddy was for SATA 3. Voilà, the error is gone and I can write on the HDD just fine again.
I hope this helps anyone.

For solution please read my full question.

FAQ: How do I edit photos in Revel?

Start by installing Adobe Revel to your iPhone, iPad, Mac, or Android device. Tell family and friends who will be
viewing your Adobe Revel photos to install the apps, too.
When you're sharing photos with friends and family, you want them to look their best so that everyone gets to experience and enjoy the moment as much as you did. That’s why we built intuitive and powerful editing tools right into Revel. Make every moment look exactly how you want to remember it with ease.
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You can edit a photo on your Mac, iPad, or iPhone using Adobe Revel. Changes are saved to your photo library, so
the photo looks the same on any device. The Revel cloud keeps a copy of your full res originals. Edits in revel are non-destructive, so your original is always preserved (unedited). When you export photo (MAC) Save to Camera Roll (iOS), that's when Revel applies your edits. On iOS the preview is used. on MAC the full resolution of the original is used to generate the new edited photo.
Add adjustments to your photos
Go to the photo you wish to edit.
Click on the +- Edit button on the bottom center of the page on the iPad or the iPhone.
Select a preset adjustment look or adjust red eye, crop, or rotate.
With Revel’s intuitive and powerful editing tools, it’s lots of fun to make your photos look better. Crop and use one-touch filters to get professional results with ease, or use the adjustment sliders when you want to experiment with lighting, color, and sharpness.
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Edits you make to a photo appear when you view the photo on any device. Because Adobe Revel saves the edits as separate instructions rather than as changes to the original photo, you can always undo any edits you've made. For example, you can select a black-and-white look, and then if you change your mind, tap or click Undo. If you make a series of edits and then change your mind, tap or click Cancel.
To improve lighting or contrast, tap or click Adjustments. Drag the White Balance, Exposure, and Contrast sliders to achieve the effect you want. Tap or click the two-way arrows (see image below) for additional sliders that give you finer control
Looks: Turn a photo into an amazing photo with a single tap. With 24 different photo filters it's easy to create a photo that will impress your friends and family.
Adjustments: Use the advanced controls to adjust the color, lighting, and sharpness of your photos.
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Red Eye
Using Revels Red Eye removal is easy. Just click on the "Auto Detect & Correct" or click on the persons eyes in your image as Revel will automatically correct the red eyes.
Crop & Rotate
Crop: To remove unwanted areas of the photo, tap or click Crop & Rotate. Drag a corner or side of the frame to resize it. Drag the photo itself to reposition it. Pinch your fingers open to zoom in on the photo within the frame.
Rotate: To rotate the photo, tap or click Crop & Rotate. Then, tap or click the Rotate Left or Rotate Right icon; or tap or click the Flip Horizontal or Flip Vertical icon.
Actions Menu
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Export Original: Exports the original image with out any adjustments applied.
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Iphone Users: You can share your photos via e-mail or upload your images directly to Facebook, Flickr, Twitter & Tumblr.
Actions Menu
Add Photo to Album: Add your photo to a new album or existing album in your library
Save Current to cameral roll: Exports the current version of the image that you have applied any adjustments to
Save Original to cameral roll: Exports the original image with out any adjustments applied.
Storing your original photos When you import a photo, Adobe Revel uploads a copy of the original to the cloud.
By default, Adobe Revel also stores a copy of the original on your computer in /Pictures/Adobe Revel Library
The files are stored in a "package" titled Adobe Revel Library. Control click on the package and select "Show Package Contents" from the menu. Then you will be able to view the images in the finder window.
Favorites
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Add captions to your photos
Create lasting memories by preserving all the info and details related to each of your photos.
Deleting photos
Be careful! Deleting a photo removes it from Revel on all your devices, not just the one you're working on. Make sure you really don't want the photo anymore before you delete it.
For example: If you delete the image on your phone or iPad, the image will also be deleted from the Adobe Revel Library in the /Pictures/Adobe Revel Library directory on your computer. Its always a good practice to back up your images to a location on your hard drive.

Please study this, then come back with more specific questions
Learn Photoshop Elements 12 | Adobe TV
Learn Photoshop Elements | Adobe TV
Use of the tools is pretty much the same in all versions of the program.
"Edit" is a menu item in Photoshop Elements Editor. Don't you see this?

How do I install a printer?

yes I know it sounds like an idiotic question; please bear with me. I have a relatively modern (<1 year old) business colour laserjet (Kyocera Mita Ecosys FS-C5025N) which is connected to my home network via wired ethernet. My MBP is also connected to my network via wired ethernet. My problem is that having once installed my printer (and had it working) I had to turn the printer off to clear a job and now my MBP won't communicate with it.
When I turned it off and on again, the DHCP on my network gave my printer a new address (192.168.1.5 instead of 192.168.1.19). So I'm guessing that OS X has 'lost' it in some way. My solution was to go into System Preferences, Print and Fax, and delete the printer, with the expectation of being able to reinstall it. however, the problem is that when I click '+' in Print and Fax to add a printer, my K-M printer is nowhere to be found (when I installed it the first time, OS X found the printer automatically and I just selected it).
So how can I find/install this printer again? When I click the + in Print & Fax now I am presented with 4 options, default, Fax, IP and Windows. If I select IP and put in 192.168.1.5 under 'Address' (using all other default options, protocol = Line printer Daemon LPD, etc) it finds the printer. However, once installed, when I check the printer out, I see a yellow 'attention triangle' with the message 'this printer was not installed properly'.
I thought that I would try downloading the driver from the Kyocera Mita site. I've done this and installed the printer this way ... it all ran correctly but when I go back into Print & Fax - no printer is to be found? Is there a secret directory somewhere into which I must go and delete something rogue that's gumming up my system?
Any ideas, you gurus out there? Solved Stars await! Please.

Thanks Pahu, much appreciate the input. I'm working through this now and have the following: Apologies for War & Peace - I just wanted to be precise...
Looking up Bonjour I see that it's a 'IP protocol to allow devices to automatically discover each other without the need to enter IP addresses or configure DNS servers'. When I set up the printer the first time, I do recall OS X finding it and the word Bonjour was there (I just didn't know what it meant). So I'm guessing that the printer must have had the right responder settings for it to work. It's just this time round it's not finding it. Nothing has changed on the printer end (apart from switch-off, switch-on). Hence, as I've come from 20+ years in Windows, I know that sometimes you have to delete registry entries to clear a problem before reinstalling a device, I wondered if there was a similar Apple procedure?
Looking at the manual, I see that the printer is PCL6 and Postscript3 compatible with auto emulation sensing. So I've set up the first test to be as an IP printer, LPD, inputting the address 192.168.1.5 in the Address field, and using the generic PCL driver as you suggest. When I click Add, I don't see any options but I guess that's because of the generic driver. The printer now appears in my Print & Fax box, but when I double click it I see a new box which says that the printer software was installed incorrectly, please re-install. Despite this, I can print to it (I tested from within Word). But I have no advanced options.
I would like to set up a second test using the Kyocera printer driver (using the generic PCL driver doesn't give me any printer options). I have downloaded this one here http://usa.kyoceramita.com/americas/jsp/Kyocera/download_center.jsp?pid=16744&pc at=10563&rcid=10009&rscid=10007#bottom, selecting the 'Kyocera Mita OSX 10.4 & 10.5 installer v 1.0' and the 'Kyocera Mita OSX 10.6 Permissions Fix' as you suggest in your reply. The former download a .mpkg.zip file which I extracted (53 items) using zipeg. When I ran the file it said that it was an installer for the printer, and completed successfully. When I checked in Print & Fax, clicked the +, there was no KM-printer installed (under default). This is consistent with the blurb about the permissions fix, which should fix this I guess?
So I then downloaded and unzipped the Permissions Fix, which put a folder (containing a file called Kyocera OS X 10.6 solution.command) on my desktop. When I try to run this I receive the message 'this file could not be executed because you do not have the appropriate access privileges'. I'm the only user on my MBP with full privilege? When I checked through Finder, Get Info I have Read & Write access for this file.
There is a PDF which I've found to install this file. It says
Follow the Installation Instructions below to install the MAC 10.6 PPD Patch. The Patch will allow a new Kyocera Printer to be added.
Subject: 10.6 PPD File Patch Installation Instructions
On KMAconnect Download and run the OSX 10.4 & 10.5 Installer. (DONE)
Download the OSX10.6 permissionfix.zip file to your Mac running OSX 10.6.(DONE)
Double click the zip file to extract the contents to the desktop folder. (DONE)
Double click the file called Kyocera OS X 10.6 solution. A Terminal window will open. (NO IT DOESN'T, I GET THE ERROR MESSAGE ABOVE)
Key in the password for the (Root) Administrator when prompted for the changes to take affect. (CAN'T DO THIS DUE TO ERROR MESSAGE ABOVE...)
Note: When keying in the Administrator Password, the Terminal window will keep the Password Masked so it will not display any change in the window when the characters are being input. If there is no password assigned, one must be created before running the OSX10.6 solution file.
You can now add a Kyocera Printer in the normal manner.
Any thoughts on how I can run this file?
I don't know if it matters but the PDF says the file in the Permissions Fix is called Kyocera OS X 10.6 solution but it's actually called Kyocera OS X 10.6 solution.command ...?

Opening any image in Photoshop desaturates and darkens it

Hello!
For approx the last 2 months whilst using photoshop CS5 (which I have been since purchasing in Dec 11 without issues), I'll process and images as a TIFF or high res JPEG with an Adobe RGB 1998 colour profile in Lightroom 3 or Capture Pro 7, then open in Photoshop with a working space and proof preview space of Adobe RGB 1998 and the image appears darker. I can correct it by adding a saturation layer, (+28 sat) a curves layer (+ 10% brightness) and a contrast layer (-15 contrast). I then save the image and open it again in bridge or lightroom an, whether I flattened it or not, the image then opens in all other programs with the same issues that photoshop gave it, i.e. darker, more contrasty and less saturation. My workaround has been to open all in bridge, then open in photoshop from here for all my retouch work, then open in lightroom and fix the colour/curves/sat problems. Not an ideal work around and incredibly time consuming! Help!!
This of course also affects my images when I open the high res through bridge as processed through Capture or Lightroom then use Bridge Image Processor to export all as low res adobe 1998 - they all come out darker etc.
I'm running the programs on a Macbook Pro 2009 model, vs 10.8.4, and my screen is calibrated regularly.
Thanks,
Jess

Sounds like you did not use Adobe RGB as the target spec for your monitor calibration, but instead a custom RGB setup based on a 6500k whitepoint or something like that. Could also be a bad profile. In any case, before spending endless hours trying to chase phantoms, it would be best to reset your monitor and color settings to factory default, then create a new calibration from scratch.
Mylenium

Modern Contrast Vs. Old Contrast

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