Monitor white point setting 6500 or 5600?

My monitor has the rec709 default set to 5600- but I have read that 6500 is a better result.
Can anyone clear this up for me- thanks

Corbybhy, the glossy screen is the biggest and silliest myth out there. Really.
I have been a professional art director & designer for over 26 years, and by the way, for many years my high end professional CRTS were made of glass (and glossy). Another myth is that the screens cannot be calibrated, and are too bright. Hogwash. I use Spyder3Pro and have had few problems, guessing your device will be the same. Actually, the monitors seem to stay consistant for a heck of a lot longer than the old high end CRTs did. In the old days, most professionals calibrated to 5000k, but these days 6500k is the standard.
The amount of MISINFORMATION that is being spewed always amazes me. If you can keep your lighting consistant and somewhat dim, your life will be easier. Reflections are simply not a major issue, and are also overblown as a issue (by the way, my iMac sits next to a window, I just use shades to dim the ambient light).
I work mostly in print, and produce mostly publications, advertising & marketing materials. I have ZERO issues with my screen matching my proofs. ZERO. I do a huge amount of imaging, retouching & post-processing... all from my 27" iMac.

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Colour Calibration / White Point setting - Is Imac Display really professional quality

I am trying to calibrate my imac 27" using i1 Display2 calibration software. I am trying to set a traget of 6500 using the software but it advises the current is only 5600 and suggests moving the RGB sliders to get this current white point up to my 6500 target. Unfortunatly i have no idea where i find these sliders on my imac. Can anyone advise how i change my current white point to get to the 6500 target?
Also, on the brightness issue, does shades work to reduce my brightness or will it simply interfere with my colour calibration?
Finally, i was going to use my iMac for professional photography. (Mainly on line but some print work required). Honestly, is the iMac display up to the job or should i consider changing
Thanks
Gary

Corbybhy, the glossy screen is the biggest and silliest myth out there. Really.
I have been a professional art director & designer for over 26 years, and by the way, for many years my high end professional CRTS were made of glass (and glossy). Another myth is that the screens cannot be calibrated, and are too bright. Hogwash. I use Spyder3Pro and have had few problems, guessing your device will be the same. Actually, the monitors seem to stay consistant for a heck of a lot longer than the old high end CRTs did. In the old days, most professionals calibrated to 5000k, but these days 6500k is the standard.
The amount of MISINFORMATION that is being spewed always amazes me. If you can keep your lighting consistant and somewhat dim, your life will be easier. Reflections are simply not a major issue, and are also overblown as a issue (by the way, my iMac sits next to a window, I just use shades to dim the ambient light).
I work mostly in print, and produce mostly publications, advertising & marketing materials. I have ZERO issues with my screen matching my proofs. ZERO. I do a huge amount of imaging, retouching & post-processing... all from my 27" iMac.

Setting white point in LR

I'm almost sure I'm missing something but I cannot find a solution. I'm using LR (currently 2.2) for quite a while (since 1.2) but I simply cannot find an easy, user friedly and predictable way how to set a white point of edited pictures.
In PS, CR, DPP and most other editing SW and RAW processors, there two typical easy tools how to set the white point.
1) a white point picker which (when used) defines a desired tone as white and the relevant SW then redistributes the tones accordingly;
2) in "levels" or "curves" dialog (or their equivalents it is possible to move the "White level" treshold below which the remaining tones are redistributed accordingly - the iterface varies (sometimes it is the border of the histogram or curve diagram that can be moved (DPP), sometimes it is the slider in histogram or curve diagram setting this limit
botw ways generally lead to the same and quite uniform result. I.e. I'm usually able to get almost identical result by setting white point in PS, DPP, CR, .... and other SW by such simple operation when working over identical picture data.
However in LR it is virtually impossible to achieve similar result in LR. No white point picker, no slider enabling setting the white limit, no chance to move borders in the histogram chart. The only available tools for this purpose are
"Exposure" and "Brightness". None of them providing for the desired functionality alone - their combination giving sometimes acceptable but hardly predictable results (definitely not as predictable as achieved e.g. in PS by simple and single move of white limit slider in "level" dialogue or equivalent step in CR.
Do I really miss something important (I hope so) in this respect or is LR completly lacking this (for me really core/basic) functionality present in all other photo and RAW editting SW I know - even from Adobe?
thanks

I agree with the original poster - I find it troublesome to set the white point in an image. In a situation where a traditional (PS, Aperture) levels control would make it convenient to push a particular tone to white, I find myself going back and forth between exposure and the tone curve a fair amount. Another description of what I want, effectively, is a 'recovery' slider that goes up as well as down.
(See end of post for replies to a few specific points.)
An example:
Here is the original image, with its histogram and tone curve - black to middle gray:
I want to push the small hatch/door to white, but that also overexposes my middle grays (I haven't yet touched the tone curve):
So now I go to the tone curve, and pull down both darks and lights:
However, at this point I've lost my whites (they are not quite clipped any more); and probably more importantly, since the tone curve is at the extreme low values, I have little working room or control.
Rather than working together or providing complementary functions, in this case exposure and the tone curve, to me, seem to be fighting; it requires back-and-forth to get the desired effect.
(To be clear, most of the time - that is, when my white point starts out more or less where I want it - being able to drag the histogram and smoothly-transitioned segments of the tone curve is brilliantly easy and useful. It's specifically the exposure control's nonlinear behavior/effect that I dislike, as it makes it difficult to adjust near-white tones.)
Responding to specifics:
> Also, hold the ALT key (David Edwards)
Cool! (However, not a fix for this issue.)
> the controls themselves are not linear (Lee Jay)
> attempts to preserve highlights (Lee Jay)
> the exposure slider is almost exactly equivalent to the white point slider in Photoshop's levels/curves (Joa V. L.)
I think this is the root of the issue, for me - the exposure control is being intelligent in a way to protect hilights, which is counter to my intent. My experience leads me to disagree strongly with Joa's comment (though I would be very happy to discover I was wrong) - my problem is specifically that adjusting exposure up (brightening the image with exposure) affects tones less, the brighter they are.
> I need to decrease the Brightness (Henry_Deer)
> you may need to generate a higher-contrast tone curve and work with that (Lee Jay)
The brightness adjustment seems analogous to my use of the tone curve, though it's an alternate approach I haven't tried. However, both seem to suffer from the 'several rounds' problem.
Edited to reply to a few specific points

Setting a White Point and Black Point

I would like to suggest for future versions of lIghtroom to have an ability to set the white point and black points similar to levels and curves in Photoshop. This would be in addition to setting middle grey in the white balance settings currently in Lightroom. I find that the method of using Threshold to find the closest white and black pixels and then using these points to set the black and white points in curves or levels provides a better way to fix a color cast than the methods available in Lightroom.

MB,
There is no real need for Black and White point eyedropper type tools in Lightroom. By holding down the Alt key while changing the Blacks or Exposure sliders the display will show the areas that are being clipped. This is much faster than looking around for the darkest and lightest areas manually. If you just like to click to taste (like using the White balance dropper) then forget the Alt key and just move the sliders until you get the desired look.
Remember that the problem with Photoshop is that there are so many ways to do the same thing that it has become difficult and bloated. Lightroom strives to keep the interface as clear as possible.

Setting White Points in Camera Raw

When setting white points in Adobe Camera Raw, while holding down Alt (on a PC), are the red marks what I should look for? Because white marks also appear? Which ones are relevant for the white point?

ACR doesn’t work that way. There is an eyedropper for the overall white-balance that you can set by clicking on a relatively bright, neutral area, but there aren’t black and white-point eyedroppers. But, what is clipped black or white is determined by the output colorspace you have set at the bottom and you can get some idea of what will be clipped black and white by turning on the clipping indicators and watching for the areas you’d be eye-droppering on (the black and white patches in your grayscale) to start showing the clipping color overlay for black and white, but any further toning adjustments will move data in and out of what is darker than black and lighter than white so what is clipped for output will change as you fiddle with the various toning sliders.
The reason things are different: In PS, when you set a black-point and white-point in Levels and click Ok, the data below and above those is thrown away and that is the starting point for the next adjustment. In ACR, things are non-destructive and all the adjustments occur simultaneously, rather than sequentially as in PS, and no clipping occurs until you create the output file. This means that the pixels that are darker than your black-point and lighter than your white-point are still there, and can be moved into the black-to-white range if you do further toning adjustments. Having more headroom of the pixels that are outside the black-to-white range is good because you won’t get the posterization or banding that occurs when colors and levels are clipped after each adjustment in PS.
Can you describe what you intend your overall workflow to be on an image: how much adjusting will occur in ACR and how much, if any, might happen in PS, after the image is opened into PS from ACR, or opened from a file saved from ACR? There might be other ways to approach what you’re trying to accomplish.

Setting black and white points

Dear friends,
I am shooting some pics with a "Whibal like" target card which has a white, black and 18% neutral grey shades.
In Camera Raw I I can easily correct the white balance with the provided eyedropper on the top row by clicking on the grey target.
I cannot find any way to set the black and the white points though and have to resort doing that for EACH picture in Photoshop via a levels or a curves adjustment layers.
It would be great to be able to set those in Bridge/Camera Raw so that I can then copy those settings to other similar shots.
Any ideas ? Thank you
Marco

I am having the same problem, although its now Camera Raw 7 - where can you set the white, mid, and black points in Camera Raw with the eyedropper tool. It seems you have to create a new psd file in Photoshop to do this, which does not make much sense since it is a basic levels adjustment. I am batch editing a bunch of CR2 files, and I just need to select the black, mid and white points on a grayscale that I've shot in the images - is there a way to do this in Camera Raw 7? Thanks!!

Setting the white point and gamma

I've heard that when calibrating your display you should set the white point and gamma to native. What is the difference between setting the white point at 65k and the gamma at 2.2?
Thanks in advance for your time
Rick

The difference would depend on what the native points were to begin with.

Setting the Black or White point in LR Mobile

In desktop LR, you can hold down the Alt (Option) key while moving the Black or White Slider in the Develop module to set the Black Point or White Point. Is there an equivalent action in LR Mobile? What is it?

Slide the Black or White Slider in Lightroom mobile with two fingers instead of one.

White point of the Qosmio G40 monitor

I need to calibrate my monitor for my G40 but the white point information is missing. Does anyone know what the white point is?

Hi,
so, why do you need to calibrate your monitor? I mean, its a TFT and I dont know any reason why to do it. Maybe a better description or explanation of your situation would be REALLY useful for those which want to help you.
By the way: I couldnt find any information about "white point" so it depends from the application you use, to find out what this "white point" information is...
Would appreciate some feedback from you.
Greets

White point selection when profiling monitor

When profiling monitor, many sources say that begin with the native white point of monitor and then compare different white points in order to find best working white point selection for your ambient conditions.
There is an option in i1Display Pro and you can specify the target white point as the CCT of ambient lighting conditions.
I decided to try this one ... and I calibrated my monitor exactly what the instructions said, but at the end I got completely unrelated achieved CCT as seen in the following image.
I would like to learn the reason for such a unrelated finish.
My second question: From the point of view of color theory, what do you think about specifying the target white point as the CCT of ambient lighting?
And, my last question: I've got contrast ratios approximately 1:700 from my previous measurements, but now it said that it is 1:425 as seen in the image ... what do you think about such a great difference from a measurement to a measurement?
Thanks a lot ...

Hi Don,
6.0.5 is now available. 6.0.5 fixes this bug. Sorry for your troubles.
Mac:
http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=5630
Win:
http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=5631
Peter Garaway
Adobe
Premiere Pro

Automatically set the Black and the White points in Aperture?

Jasoninajeep, in this thread, refers to this Aperture Export article, which includes the helpful hint that holding "{Option}" while clicking the auto-luminance button in the Curves brick will cause Aperture to set the Black and the White points without making any other changes.
Is there any other way to automatically set the Black and the White points in Aperture?
Thanks.

Hi BBurgess!
Unfortunately, it sounds like you may have a service issue on your hands. While our QuickStart guide provides details on installing the cartridges in their respective slots, putting those catridges in the wrong position may cause an internal issue with the Canon PiXMA MG3222.
We recommend contacting our Technical Support group directly via this Contact Us link. Our Technical Support group can provide you with all available service options.
Thanks!

Can you remove the camera white balance setting in Aperture

I have a Canon 7D and use Aperture for processing and storing my images.
With the Canon I shoot both video and still and frequently adjust the white balance in the camera. I make a frequent mistake in leaving the wrong white balance setting on - eg when taking video indoors in the evening I set the white balance to indoors (the Canon seems poor at white balance decision making on video) and then I forget I'm not using auto white balance and switch to taking a photo with flash. The result is a horrible blue photo - which if I don't spot the problem at the time seems very hard to correct afterwards.
I use the Aperture white balance adjustments frequently but unless there is a patch or white or grey I an use the dropper on, I find this particular situation seems to be right off the scale of what I can fix in Aperture. I end up with sliders at the extremes of the scales and no intuitive sense of what numbers to type in manually to try and get realistic colour - so I often end up discarding these photos even if the shot itself is something I'd like to use.
So my question is given I'm importing RAW, is there a way to show the phoo without the (wrong) white balance setting I applied in the camera, to let me choose white balance from scratch?
Or if not, do you have any advice about how to adjust from this very bluey unrealistic colour of image?

Kirkby - thanks for the quick reply.
Didn't know you could drag inside a value field - that's helpful.
But being able to get different numbers on the slider isn't the root of my problem.
In a specific example I have two photos - one taken with white balance set to flash and the photo was with flash, where after a bit of tweaking to get the colour I want the temp slider is at 5000K (and tint 0). The second photo has my shooting error with interior lighting white balance but taken with flash. The two shots were taken from almost the same point of the same view (but different people in frame). The shot with the white balance error comes off camera horribly blue coloured. I can fiddle with the two sliders - I take temperature to 20000K and tint to 40 to do the best with it I can, and with those settings one of the two faces is approaching flesh colour but the wall behind the subjects (which is a light blue in reality) is now appearing light yellow in places. I just can't get a good looking colour effect no matter ow extreme the slider settings.
I may have phrased my question badly - as I totally agree you can't show a raw without a colour setting - so maybe I'm better asking to be able to use a different colour setting on the raw data rather than having to start with adjustments on top of my white balance mistake.
Given the two shots were in the same place against the same background and the same lighting (both with flash) it seems to me I ought to be able to get a similar colour effect on both and I just can't. To illustrate here are the two photos (the one on the left was shot with flash wb and in Aperture I'm viewing it with 5000K and 0 tint, the one on the right was shot with indoor wb and in Aperture I'm viewing it with 20000K and 40 tint and it looks terrible!)
https://www.box.com/shared/qle3t6ovyhrd1egez3vc

Access point setting

anybody who can help me to figure out what's wrong with my point, every time i try to configure my access point setting, a message will display "setting: memory full. close some appliocations and try again" pls help me

It is possible. If you give the phone at Nokia care they will also do a hard reset if required to do so. Therefore the risk is everywhere. If you have taken the full backup without problems there is small possibility of backup not getting restored if back-up and restore procedure is done correctly.
If my post has helped you please click the white star on the right

Establishing White Point and Black Point

Hi,
How do I Establishing a White Point and a Black Point in Lightroom 1.4.1 and especially in Lightroom 2 Bata?
Thank You,
Hersul

The last post by OP might have closed this thread, but given the relative lack of activity on this and LR2 forums (summertime?) - I'll go a little deeper.
i White point
- If your white balance is right from the start, you just use the Exposure slider to set the white point. If not, first set the white balance - that effectively sets a preliminary white point for each channel separately, or, to be more precise, matches the right side of the histogram for each channel - then set the Exposure. So, with the white point you have complete control over the histogram, as well as over each channel.
i Black point
- here the situation is different. You can move the left side of the main (composite?) histogram using the Blacks slider, but there's no means for moving channels separately. In theory, with digital capture, there probably should not be need for this, blacks should be always black, so that's OK, but...
I once had a batch of pics scanned from film. The film was poorly developed so it has some strong brown-magenta cast in the shadows. In Photoshop it was a piece of cake to set the black point by dragging the left ends of each channel to the left edge of the histogram (heck, even Auto Level did a wonderful job). In Lightroom, there's just no way you can correct this, because you can't control the channels separately.

Change preferences for Auto black/white point in Camera RAW

Hey guys,
By hold shift and clicking on the slider for whites Camera RAW automatically sets the white point, same goes for the black. However, it always gets pushed to 255 (white).
Is there some way that you can edit this preference?

I don't know, but somebody may know for sure over in the camera raw forum:
https://forums.adobe.com/community/cameraraw

Monitor white point setting 6500 or 5600?

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