Moving and Tilting the Camera for an optimum Lens Profile Creator image set

Question

When framing the chart in different areas of the image frame, use a combination of physically moving and tilting the camera to achieve an optimal balance for LCP generation.
The following two passages are from the AdobeLensProfileCreatorCalibrationChartShhtingGuide.pdf
Page11/a -Move camera a bit to the left (so that when turning to the right to face the chart, it is about 10 to 30 degrees). Take a series of shots similar to the first three, above, except that the chart is framed at the center-left, top-left, and bottom-left areas of the image.
v. Move camera to the right, and do the same for the center-right, top-right, and bottom-right areas of the image
pg11/e - When framing the chart in different areas of the image frame, use a combination of physically moving and tilting the camera to achieve an optimal balance for LCP generation.
i. Only moving the camera to frame, so that image plane stays perfectly parallel to the chart, can have an adverse affect on LCP calibration data.
ii. Only tilting the chart may cause depth-of-field issues, where part of the chart may go too far out of focus due to the large angle of the chart in regards to the image plane. This can also have an adverse affect on LCP calibration data.
Does this mean to center the camera with the center/center shot so that the film plane is parallel with the calibration grid, then only use camera tilt on the tripod up and down for the top center an bottom center image. Then move the camera/tripod left (so that when turning to the right to face the chart, it is about 10 to 30 degrees) AND also pan the camera left to shoot the left top center and bottom image.
I think this combination of instructions have me stuck. Move left but not so much that the calibration target image is parallel with the film plane then pan the camera to get the desired framing.
Would I be correct to say - move left until the angel to the calibration image is 10-30 degrees and then use camera pan on the tripod to get the image framed properly. ... Is the desire to move as little as possible, or pan as little as possible, or to balance moving and panning in some way. 
I am profiling a Nikon D7000/TAMRON 11-18mm F/4.5-5.6 lens and have a large target 36"x48" and read that I should shoot at minimum focus distance, 3x minimum, and 5x minimum which equates to 9.8 inches, 29.4 inches and 49 inches... I use this combo to shoot home interior shots at an focal distance of more like 10-20 feet from surrounding walls.. would I also need shots at (120 inches?) 10 feet?
I really (really) want to get the distance to subject and camera moving/pan combination right.
Please help. 

Answer 1

There are a number of things darks/flats/bias can't remove: curvature, coma, pincushion, chromatic aberration. Some of those (pincushion i.e. showing stars on the chip in a slightly different position from their true position) may or may not be correctable with this sort of an app. It's possible using outside data (comparing the star locations in the image to their true locations in a catalog - that's a common astrophotography measurement and only takes seconds). Correcting curvature (differing focus off axis) chromatic aberration and coma (distorted star shape off axis) seem just what this app is about.
Printing a checkerboard on a nearby hill top sounds involved. Maybe I could get them to plough it in a regular pattern? :-)
The camera does not capture the data you mention. The images are usually in FITS format which has an enormous amount of data about the focal length, exposure time, amount of atmosphere through which you are looking, etc.
Calculating from the book value for the lens(es) camera chip etc would likely not be give a better result than the value obtained before correction. In some designs of scopes, particularly the most common ones, the focal length changes as you focus for example. The lenses and mirrors, comparing one scope to the next, are not perfectly identical.
But a dense star field would be something against which you could measure changes in star shape, focus, chromatic aberration and possibly even position. Once you figured out the parameters for your particular scope+corrector lenses+camera setup you could then use that profile thereafter.
I'd love to chat with that engineer  I had heard you have one person who got a Meade SCT and started astroimaging just to learn the things we need and most astroimagers do use photoshop.
Drew S.