Moving my router

I have connected and setup my WRT54GS wireless ok - all working fine. I have two laptops connected via wireless link and another PC (upstairs) with a direct ethernet cable connection. The cable modem and router are both downstairs.
If I move the router upstairs though and use the ethernet cable to connect the cable modem to the router and then use another cable from the router to the PC I can't connect properly to the internet. The PC says it has a network connection and it obtains an IP address ok but when I try to go to the internet I get web page cannot be found. The two laptops both do the same.
Would the length of the cable between modem and router be an issue (about 20m) or any other ideas what it could be?

The cable length is fine. 300' or so is the max for ethernet.
When you move the router, log into it at 192.168.1.1 (username leave blank, password is admin) and go to the status page.
Does the wan have a valid ip from the cable modem?
If not, try to powercycle the modem.
Do you have a linklight on the routers wan port and modem?
Message Edited by Frunple on 04-03-200701:14 PM

Similar Messages

Moving the router

Can I move my router near my tv using a cable splitter while maintaining the high quality image?

yes, so long as it is currently moca (coax) connected.

HUGE speed increase by moving router + disconnecti...

Rather interesting increase in speed having moved my router to the main socket (over a 3meg increase!)
Main socket has always been in a hallway and it was an inconvenience to run network cable to the PC - So as per diagram 1 I had the hub connected to one of the extention sockets that supply the points around the house.
Decided to have a cable tidy up, and purchase some Home Plugs so I could use the mains power as a network - and solve the problem of having to run a network cable from the hall to my PC. Diagram 2 shows the increase in speed.
Having been surprised at that, and bearing in mind that I had the phone connected to the same socket as the hub, For some reason I decided to disconnect all the other sockets in the flat ( By disconnecting them from in the main socket - Diagram 3 shows the result!)
Ip profile has gone from 13000 to 15000 - and im only a little bit away from getting a 16000 profile!
I can only assume that the extention that went around the flat in each room was acting like a huge aerial for interference?!
And - before you say it was just because I was using the main socket, when I connected all the extention sockets up again, the sync dropped back to about 16,000 kb.
So far the 17,888 sync i have was done in the evening 4 days ago, perhaps I should try a sync at 2pm and see how much further it raises!

Maybe?
1. Offset dipole effect
2. Long Aerial effect
Maybe also a combination of 1 or 2 plus the wrong type of Telephone cable was used for the extensions.?
"I have this awful feeling someone is watching every move I make (one of my pet hates is router location tagging)." Marvin (A paranoid Android)

Moving router connections

Presently have router connections in my basement. How hard is it to move connections to first floor?

For connectons, are you talking about something like a homerun? This is something where Verizon will install a splitter at your NID/enterance point that will filter out the DSL for the rest of your home. The DSL modem will be given it's own dedicated line.
If you don't have one of these, moving the router should be as simple as taking the modem/router upstairs and plugging it into a telephone line and power. If it syncs and your speeds are correct, it's probably good to go.
If you do need to change around any of the wiring, things depend on how your home is wired to begin with.
========
The first to bring me 1Gbps Fiber for $30/m wins!

Verizon's new FiOS GigE Wireless N Router and High Speed Internet

So I got a deal in the mail to get an upgrade to [50/25] Mbps Internet (I currently have [15/5]...when I was reviewing it on line this message came up...
Verizon will provide up to [50/25] Mbps Internet with a wired connection. If you use your Internet primarily for wireless or WiFi connections, you have the option to upgrade to Verizon's new FiOS GigE Wireless N Router which will maximize your speed delivered through your wireless connection.
Upon completion of your order, you'll be provided with information for purchasing a router at Verizon's online equipment and accessories store.
I am VERY interested in getting super fast internet...my current internet is really good but it wouldnt hurt to bump it up. I have several devices using internet in the home...most of them wireless (including my PS3). I currently use a Verizon Actiontec router.
So here is my question...do I really need to get the above router to take advantage of that [50/25]? Also one other thing...My house is fairly large and I would really like to have two routers...is it possible to use two routers or a setup to have one upstairs and another downstairs?
Thanks in advance for the answers!
-Jest

There are a lot of variables that affect wireless range.
Walls, interference, other networks in the area, etc.
You don't indicate which older Actiontec you have.
Wireless capabilities also vary by Actiontec hardware revision (A,C,D,E,F,G,I).
In general, wireless range for 802.11n is somewhat less than 802.11g, even though the bandwidth is higher.
This is especially true on the 5Ghz band (which the latest Actiontec doesn;t support).
If you only need another 10 feet, you could try moving the router, or replacing the antenna with a high gain antenna.
http://www.meritline.com/high-gain-802n-2-4ghz-swivel-antenna-routers-network-card-adapters---p-4440...

How to connect my Mac Book Pro to Linksys WRT160N router

HI,
I just bought a Linksys WRT160N router. I pop the installation disk in my mac book pro and walk thru the installation procedure successfully.
But I can't connect wirelessly from my MacBook Pro (running mac os x 10.5).
It sees the router and I did type in the password correctly (i copy from the text file generated by the installation procedure), but I keep getting 'coonnection timeout'.
Anyone has similar problem and know how to fix it?
Thank you.

I experienced this behavior today. My client had a WRT160N version 3 running on firmware 3.0.02. I upgraded it to the current version, 3.0.03, because checking for upgrades is part of the service I provide to my clients. After that point, I could not connect wirelessly -- I got the "connection timeout" message every time I provided the password. Reviewing the firmware release notes, I saw a mention of "Fixed wireless channel 11 being unstable." My client was operating on channel 11. When I moved the router to channel 1, bingo -- the wireless connected perfectly. And no, no one in the vicinity was running another network on 11 -- there was only one other, and he was on 6, which is non-overlapping.
The best part was when I called Cisco for help and got told there would be a charge for assistance to solve the problem their own firmware obviously caused, that (unlike every other manufacturer in the business) they don't recommend people upgrading their firmware unless something is clearly broken (where is that on the website or in the upgrade instructions, please?), and that they don't keep copies of the older firmware.

How can I boost the range of my router?

I have fios for phone/tv/Internet and use the Verizon MI24-WR router which works fine but my bedroom on the other side of the house doesn't get a signal. Any recommendation on improving the signal? I have the router in the office connected to the printer, PC and a"cable box" so moving the router would be a pain.
I have an old Linksys WRT54G that I could use as a booster but have no idea how to do that.
Does Verizon update router firmware? Replace older routers?

Firmware updates should happen automatically - login to your router and from here http:\\192.168.1.1
- advanbced - firmware upgrade to verify what version you have. From what I read routers are replaced based on issues you are having as well as your speed tier (75 Mb/s and up get the latest router)
I defer to the experts AFA extending the range of your WIFI please see http://forums.verizon.com/t5/Home-Networking/Actiontec-router-does-not-support-wireless-range-extend...
If a forum member gives an answer you like, please give them the Kudos they deserve. If a member gives you the answer to your question, mark the answer as Accepted Solution so others can see the solution to the problem. Thanks !!!
http://forums.verizon.com/t5/Verizon-net-Email/Fix-for-Missing-Inbox-sent-folders-etc-with-Internet-Explorer-11/m-p/647399

WiFi problems after changing from WEP to WPA on Actiontec router

I need some help/advice--I've searched the forums but am not seeing my exact problem described so decided to describe it to see if the community can help me figure out what to do now. The situation is this: After recently learning about the insecurity of WEP "security" I decided to change the security settings on our Fios router (an Actiontec MI424WR, Rev C). I first tried to change the settings to WPA2, but then my husband's elderly Dell laptop could not connect, so I changed them to WPA. At first everything seemed fine--we could connect to the internet from our computers (my MacBook Pro, his Dell, and various devices--phones, kindle, iPad).
But we soon noticed some strange problems that I was never able to resolve:
I could never get either of two Airport Expresses to connect to the network, even after repeated tries (with hard resets in between)
Within an hour or two after rebooting the router, I was no longer able to connect wirelessly to a NAS device that is connected to the router via an ethernet cable--I could no longer even see it in the Mac finder. I could see it in Windows Explorer from the Dell but could not connect.
Similarly, I lost contact with a Sonos bridge unit that is also connected to the router via an ethernet cable. In this case the loss of contact was sporadic--various devices that connect over WiFi to the bridge could sometimes see it, sometimes not.
Resetting the router would temporarily restore wireless access to the devices hardwired to the router, but I would always lose the NAS device completely after an hour or two and the Sonos bridge sporadically. The computers and devices, however, had no problems connecting to the router itself and from there to the internet.
I finally gave up and returned the security to WEP, and now everything is fine: the Airport Expresses connect, the NAS remains available, and the connection to the Sonos bridge over WiFi is robust (the Sonosnet mesh, if anyone is wondering, was never affected).
I can't understand why switching to WPA caused such problems, but it clearly did, since switching back to WEP eliminated them completely. The simplest explanation is that there is some problem with the wifi portion of the rev C router that only becomes apparent in certain circumstances, though it seems weird that both wired peripherals and wireless airport expresses were affected.
Whatever the causes of the problem, now I'm back to wondering how to improve the security of my network. Should I:
See if I can convince Verizon to replace the modem with a newer version? We have had this one for more than 4 years, since we first got fios.
Just go ahead and purchase the most recent version of the Actiontec router (rev G)? It's only about $115--worth it to me if I can use WPA with it.
Buy our own wireless router, perhaps an Airport Extreme, and turn off the wireless on the Actiontec.
Thanks in advance for any help. This is driving me crazy, and I really don't like feeling as if the network is vulnerable, especially given how extensively we use it.
Becky

This doesn't sound too uncommon. I had similar issues in the past with some networks I've worked with that were resolved by moving the router actually to WPA2 or by updating the firmware. The ActionTec MI424WR Rev. F, G, and I require the use of WPA2 since they have Wireless N radios in them so WPA wouldn't be of much use. My old Linksys WRT54GX also had similar issues, but that was a result of the Wireless Radio dying along with a mix of newer hardware not playing nice with the old, no-longer-supported firmware. I retired that router, only to bring it back into service as a Wired router at a friend's home (shutting off Wireless and setting up another as an AP) which replaced an old BEFSX41 which didn't have enough power to handle his Cable connection.
Besides a few software bugs at play somewhere, there isn't much that could cause the wireless to slowly stop working like that. I would suggest moving back to WPA2. For the older Dell laptop if it's running Windows XP, make sure at least Service Pack 3 is installed if it hasn't been getting updated. Also, check for updated drivers for the Wireless card since they may be needed as well. A bit of searching on the Wireless card should also indicate whether or not it supports WPA2 encryption. Anything from the mid-2000s should support it.
========
The first to bring me 1Gbps Fiber for $30/m wins!

Connect 6800 printer to new router

I have searched all the HP pages and this forum and haven't found an answer that works. I have a Deskjet 6840 printer and just had to buy a new router (linksys N750) and cannot connect the printer via wireless.
With this model I cannot use the setup disk because it is 2 or 3 Windows OS systems old. I am able to connect the printer to the router via ethernet cable, and can get to the printer app screen on my PC via the IP address the printer gives me. When I try to set up the wireless that way, it allows me through all the steps. But it still won't connect.
Also, yes to the following: Drivers are up to date, router is working with every other device, the SSID and key I'm using are correct.
Can someone please tell me the steps to do this correctly? If my printer has now become obsolete, please break it to me gently.
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Thoughts:
You might try assigning a static IP address for the printer at the router.
If you are using MAC filtering on the router to protect your network, make sure the printer's MAC address is added to the "allow" list in the Wireless setup.
Try moving the router - as little as a few inches may help; remember that Wireless "g" is susceptible to interference.
Make sure the router is set to respond to 801.11g -- as far as I know, all routers do this by default; it does not hurt to check the setup.
There is such a thing as "too close": make sure the router and the printer are at least 1.5 meters apart (about three feet).
Make sure you install the Update for the network reliability (from Category "Update"):
Windows 7 Critical Update to enhance reliability of network connection
Take a look at this Guide: Printer Does Not Maintain Wireless Connection
Take a look at your printer manual, Chapter 11.2 "Wireless communications": HP Deskjet 6800 series printer
Click the Kudos Star!
It is a great “Thank You” for the Experts who offer to help!
Kind Regards,
Dragon-Fur

New router WRT160N, but still same poor signal!!

Hi all,
Been having issues with my wireless signal being poor and/or intermitent. I won't pretend to be computer literate, but I asked a Techie friend about this, and he suggested that I but a new router with the "N" signal.
My desktop signal is fine, but i have 3 laptops, and can be 30 feet away and get a fair/poor signal. When I go into the bedroom, which is upstairs, and in the furthest distance away from the router, the signal gets even weaker.
My Techie tried everything to bump up the signal, trying all channels, and even moved the router around the room. No luck!!
My house isn't made of steel, so there is no logical explanation for this... is there?
Please help me, and remember...I'm not real swarthy with the computer jargon,
thanks very much

Try to change the Wireless Settings on your Router as mentioned below, i think it will improve the wireless signal strength on your computers.
Open an Internet Explorer browser page on your wired computer(desktop).In the address bar type - 192.168.1.1 and press Enter...Leave Username blank & in Password use admin in lower case...
For Wireless Settings, please do the following : -
Click on the Wireless tab
- Here select manual configuration...Wireless Network mode should be mixed...
- Provide a unique name in the Wireless Network Name (SSID) box in order to differentiate your network from your neighbors network...
- Set the Radio Band to Standard-20MHz and change the Standard channel to 11-2.462GHz...Wireless SSID broadcast should be Enabled and then click on Save Settings...
Please make a note of Wireless Network Name (SSID) as this is the Network Identifier...
For Wireless Security : -
Click on the Sub tab under Wireless > Wireless Security...
Change the Wireless security mode to WPA, For Encryption, select TKIP...For Passphrase input your desired WPA Key. For example , MySecretKey , This will serve as your network key whenever you connect to your wireless network. Do NOT give this key to anyone and remember the key.
NOTE : Passphrase should be more that 8 characters...
Click on Advanced Wireless Settings
Change the Beacon Interval to 75,Change the Fragmentation Threshold to 2304,Change the RTS Threshold to 2304 and Click on Save Settings...
Now see if you can locate your Wireless Network and attempt to connect...

BT is either appalling for gaming, or their router...

I am a uni student, studying computer science with games development. Whenever I come back home for the summer I practically pull my hair out over the appaling quality of service I get from BT. It's beyond my control to change the ISP (as I spend the summer at my parents' house), and although I can afford satellite broadband, I'd rather not fork out if I can help it.
Anyway, the root of the issue is this; in any online game, there is constant periodic 'skips' (lag), potentially caused by data packets being lost, but I can't say for certain. It's so appalling, that I've tried as much as I can to rectify the problem, which was to:
Replace every component between the router, telephone lines, and wall. Still no better.
Reset the router, to factory settings, tried every possible option in the homehub menu, and reset it again
Considered it could be wireless, so moved my desktop miles away from my desk and tested it in a wired connection, but no change
Turn off every other device capabale of so much as thinking about connecting to the internet in the house, and stopped every running program on my remaining computer except for the games I was testing
Moved the router to as many locations as I could
Tried it both with my laptop and my desktop, which are two different brands with different hardware, but give the same problem
Now, all this testing means that it can only be either BT's line strength or something wrong with the router (home hub, software ver. 4.7.5.1.83 (Type B)), which is a poor excuse for a router anyway with no QoS, MAC filtering, or anything more advanced than a caveman with a club.
Specifically, the problems I'm getting are:
Very poor bandwidth for download/upload, but my parents live in a 2MB max area, so I can live with this
More importantly, the periodic lags (actually timed them to once a minute, more or less) in games, and that's all games. It seems like packetloss, but I don't want to say for certain. Please don't mention wireless interference, because like I said I tried it on a wired connection, and there was no difference. It's so predictably periodic that I can set up a timer on my desktop and have it beep at the exact moment the lag happens; so I know this is not just random inteference.
It's my parents' connection, so there's a limit to what I can do, but I can give a phone number in private, and any help with router setup or other solutions is greatly appreciated; I'm very frustrated.
Thank you

Do a pathping in cmd prompt to the server ip. I'm pretty sure you'll find the same as me. Major packetloss in the BT network. eg. I use "pathping 213.248.127.130 > c:\pltest.txt" (without the ") to see what's going on in cmd prompt and it saves the file to my c drive and yes it's to all games and to anywhere on the net.
Unfortunately changing the MTU doesn't help for me at all. I can't view BTvision when it's happening as it stops and starts and crashes the BTVision box and gaming is a nightmare. Also I find anything I download gets easily corrupted. The good thing is, the more and more people who start noticing it, as I have for the last couple of months, perhaps it will be fixed faster.

Got new router, now powerbook G3 pismo wont connect to it.

asked cable company to replace router as i was paying for 60 meg connection but due to moving my router to connect to my dreambox i realised that the router only had 802.11g wifi and so my computer wasnt able to connect fast enough to use the connection. when watching football or downloading big files i ran an ethernet cable across the room which wasnt ideal.
they replaced it with a new router capable of 802.11n today an rewired the cabling so both my mac and dreambox have ethernet connections.
when they were here i went to test it with wifes powerbook but battery was dead so i tested with my palm tx and it connected fine..
however...
wifes powerbook gives an error and wont connect. part of me thinks its due to the powerbook being 802.11b and the router not handling that, but my palm tx is 802.11b so thats not a reason surely? checked and psp, wii, nokia phone all connect but powerbook gives error.
if it is, can i just stick a pc usb 802.11g or n stick into the powerbook's usb (1) slot and make it connect?

Are you certain you connected all the way to the Internet with your palm, and not just to the Router?
cable company
The cable company has to perform a "deep reset" to allow you to use a new device with a new M.A.C. Address. Your connection was established with an older M.A.C. Address, and that (your old Router) is the only device that can be connected until they do this.
Call them and tell them, "I got a new computer, and you guys have to reset your equipment to accept the new device in place of the old one."
almost every 802.11n Router has a mode that will allow it to pause for an instant and "sniff" for slower devices. It slows your network down by an imperceptible amount. Not an issue in home networks. But you may have to configure it to do so.

AP Check: routing/account numbers not placed at bottom edge of paper

I have moved the routing/account numbers as far to the bottom of the page in the RTF template as possible.
When I generate and print the check output in PDF the routing/account number is 1/2 inch too high on the page. If I adjust the RTF template then it creates new blank pages.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Kelly

I am not sure, if you did the same:
1. Go to Page Setup
2. Click the layout tab
3. Decrease the From Edge "Footer" value to 0.25 if the value is in the footer.
Otherwise - make sure you don't have a footer.
1. Go to Page Setup
2. Click the margin tab
3. Set the Margin - Bottom to 0.5
If that doesn't print correctly, your printer may not support such small margins.
Hope that helps,
Klaus

N300-E1200 router disconnects fomr PC

I keep getting disconnected from the internet. It just disconnects and reconnects after about 1 minute. It happens randomly, at different time intervals.
Anybody has answers on that ?

What Hardware version is your router?
What Firmware version is currently loaded?
What region are you located?
Has a Factory Reset been performed?
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing?
What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?
Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6 is recommended.
Check ISP MTU requirements, Cable is usually 1500, DSL is around 1492 down to 1472. Call the ISP and ask.
http://kb.linksys.com/Linksys/ukp.aspx?vw=1&docid=88e63d78588142e6bb68e22d7faf2046_Configuring_the_M...
For DSL/PPPoE connections on the router, ensure that "Always ON" option is enabled.
Does the PC work with the ISP modem when directly connected?
I recommend that you have your ISP check the cabling going to the ISP modem, check signal levels going to the ISP modem. For cable Internet, RG-6 coaxial cable is needed, not RG-59. Check for t.v. line splitters and remove them as they can introduce noise on the line and lower the signal going to the ISP modem. Connecting to the ISP modem could result in a false positive as the signal to the modem could be just enough to that point then adding on a router, could see problems. Ensure modem is working well too. Bad modems are out there as well. The router operation is dependent upon getting good data flow from the ISP modem and the modem is dependent upon getting good signal from the ISP Service.
Any 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz cordless house phones or WiFi APs near by?
Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use http://www.metageek.net/support/metageek-software-archives/ to find out. Use v3. How many?
WMM Support must be enabled for single wireless N mode to function.
Router Placement
Forum User - "Well I feel really dumb. After moving the router away from other electronic devices my speeds are back to normal. Just a heads up for anyone experiencing slow speeds, you might want to move it away from other electronics and see if that helps."
3-6' feet minimum safe distance between devices.
Placement on main level floor and central in the building and WELL ventilated is preferred. Not in basements or closets as building materials, or near by electronics devices could interfere or hinder good signal propagation.

My router crashes at the sight of my macbook.!! I have to keep them well separated

Hi
I live in France and have a Orange router for wifi with 2 laptops, my MacBook and a Sony Vaio.
The router crashes whenever I approach it with my Ipad Or Mac. It works fine. It hates Apple? I am constantly resetting. Both laptops state that there is an IP conflict. My mac is designed to adapt to that...?
Can you suggest action please? Merci

You may have to see if it is fairly easy to set up wireless by hardware identification number, commonly referred to as 'mac address' in DHCP in router server; which has nothing to do with Apple, as all hardware can use their ID to connect. Including printers so equipped. This is usually done by ethernet or wireless, and imparts a greater degree of security at your home base for those items you have. Is there something there that is repeating or re-sending the wireless signal, perhaps on the same frequency as the router? Channel numbers can be changed, for example, if there are two. But there are more complex things to consider if the matter is worse, and so far there is no explanation for this conflict. The MacBook and Sony should be able to use the same wireless router base station.
How is file sharing and internet sharing set up on these competing devices? This can be a place to look.
•Cascading router and DHCP conflicts?
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/44038-42-cascading-router-dhcp-conflict
In an area a bit more complex, the matter of IP Conflict, this one when moving between wi-fi router and repeater, is among the more difficult: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/38238-43-conflict-moving-wifi-router-wifi-repe ater This may not be what is happening with your competing wi-fi products, but that matter of settings, since you can share files, and also web connections through the Apple products. As an option.
Other router conflicts are noted, from a larger volume of search results:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/27902-43-router-conflict
Also, it may be a matter of choosing how the MacBook connects to the available wireless, and what those wireless settings are in the router, and if the MacBook shares an internet connect to another product, that could be a source of conflict if not set up correctly. Something may be seeing a third product as a competing source of a potential wi-fi connection to the internet, and it isn't.
Some of these things have a dynamic IP address (changes) and another could be using fixed IP addresses. The router 's should be fixed. All of mine are and I can use four Macs, or more PCs via an Apple branded wireless router.
There are several possibilities, and most difficult to guess at a distance. But the settings in each brand and item have to be looked into, as they all have the ability to be customized to fit certain working parameters.
Not sure if this helps any... at 2AM.
Good luck & happy computing!
edited.

Moving my router

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