Msi diamond plus temperature

My chipset temp is 63c. Isn't that a bit high? I have 1.3v for the chipset to make my overclock more stable but the system temp seems high

I have Thermal Cruise on, but my idle temp is 37c(OS), 40c in BIOS. The 40mm chip fan is quite loud at 5.4K rpm w/full load, but so is the vid
TC only works if the chip temp is within reason, yet I have been guilty of being "unreasonable" and paid the price
If my chipset was over 50c I would disable TC and start looking at why my case has this thermal problem.
OC is a dual edged blade, and heat is the enemy that can slice and dice spendy gear.
If your case can not remove the extra voltage heat on the chipset, then your OC will die an early death...
Are you running the XFX in PCI-E 1? Have you tried 2?
Since the top slot is close to the chip cooling area, getting air movement there will most likely help.
Of course, if you post your case and fan lay out will will get better help
HTH

Similar Messages

MSI Diamond Plus - SATA problem

Hello,
I have a MSI Diamond Plus board. About 3 weeks ago my old OCZ 520ADJ power supply failed. I RMA'd it and received a 600 ModXtreme back. After hooking it up I am no longer able to use the four nForce4 SATA ports connected through the nvidia chipset. I am still able to use the 2 from SIL. Please any advice would be really helpful! When I plug any device ( 3 HD's 1 DVD/CD Rom ) into any of the nvidia supplied ports they are not detected by the BIOS.

Read >>Posting Guide<<
Check power cables for your storages.

K8N Diamond Plus Temperatures

I was doing some initial setup on my new PC, using a PCI Graphics card (my SLI GPU's haven't arrived yet) and I noticed that barely 5 minutes after power on, the CPU and Northbridge are up around 45 and 48 Degrees Centigrade respectively. Whats more worrying, is that the heatpipe from the Southbridge, and the Southbridge heatsink are too hot to touch. My RAM (Corsair TWINX2048C2PT PC3200) also gets extremely hot. Is this normal?
I have a 4800+ X2, with standard HSF. I have two 120mm fans on the case (one in, one out), but they seem to do little to cool aforementioned components. 580Watt Tagan U22 (TG580-U22)
Two other queries:
Near the NB/CPU there is an 8-pin powerconnector (JPWR2), when I got the board out of the box, there was a cap (of sorts) covering 4 of the pins. Any reason for this? The manual indicated to attach an 8-pin connector, as I did (after removing the cap).
What does the JPWR3 (molex connector) actually do for PCI-E cards which have their own power connectors?

JonnyManc,
Your right and that bother me for a while, then I looking at the board layout and it is not the best in the world.
When, I first fired up my Diamond Plus with a Thermaltake Big Typhoon CL-P0114 120mm, Cooling Fan as a temporary CPU Cooler with system not in the case just laid out on a table. The System temperature was over 50C. I had the Graphics Card in the Primary x16 slot right up next to Northbridge Cooler, the Big Typhoon exhausting down on to the motherboard. Therefore, four major heat generators the Memory modules, CPU, Northbridge and Graphics were all dumping their Hot Exhaust into the same area. The Northbridge Cooler as Agent Proagandi said you could not touch it without being burned instantly.
First, thing did was move the Graphics Card to the Secondary x16 slot, that dropped the system temperature a degree or two.
Second, got the Thermaltake Hyper 6+ and modified it by increasing the fan size to 120mm. The mounted within take right over the Northbridge Cooler and mounting the Fan on what was now the top, but instead of blowing into the cooler, I reversed the fan, so that not draws air the CPU cooler and exhausting in the top of the case where there are a 120mm and 60mm case exhaust fan. This arrangement also has the advantage of drawing case air right over the top of the Northbridge Cooler. Now, I can hold on to the Northbridge cooler for several second before it even starts to feel hot.
Next, I will be increasing the right side fan from 80mm to 120mm.
Agent Proagandi,
Sorry we rather took over you thread, I normally would not do that, but as the subject was Diamond Plus temperature and it is cooling. I thought you might find the information of interest. If not I apologize for intruding.
The system I have been referring to is in my signature.
Roger
When submitting a problem, include a complete list of your system components; include part numbers, all Power Supply Voltages, and their output ratings. It is almost impossible to estimate what your problem is without knowing something about it.

Problem with 2gb Corsair ram on MSI Diamond plus mobo

Ok first of all,the specs:
AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200+ "Manchester"
MSI MS-7100 K8N Diamond Plus, nVidia nForce4 SLI
MSI GeForce NX7900GTX-T2D512E
2048 MB DDR-RAM, 400MHz - (TWINX1024-3200C2PRO) Corsair TwinX CL2
( 4 pieces at 512mb ram)
Plextor PX-755SA/T3K DualLayer / 16x DVD+/-RW
HDD: Maxtor DiamondMax 10 (6V200E0) 200 GB SerialATA-II / 7200rpm
running on win xp prof. sp2
with newest version of mobo bios and drivers.
The thing is, if i stick all the for ram pieces into the pc, it tends to crash down after a while or during the booting with PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA as error msg.
but if i take two pieces out and run all with 1 gb no problems occour. This is starting to really annoy me, so i'm hoping someone has the know how to help me out, i'd really appriciate any suggestions or or solutions, i just want to run my system with 2gb of ram

run memtest on the system and tell us if you get any errors. it is probably a bad configuration of the memory timings and voltages. try to get the timings and voltages from the manufacturer's web page and then set up manually in bios.

OVER CLOCKING A AMD 3500+ ON A MSI DIAMOND PLUS MOBO.

Hello.
I am wanting to Over Clock my AMD 3500+ To a 4000+ On my Msi K8N Diamond plus motherboard
I have a gig of Kingston hyper x 400 and I was wondering how I would go about doing this
thanks so much for all you help. MSI DriversnVidia DriversAMD

Quote from: Nvdia48 on 22-May-06, 04:28:22
Hello.
I am wanting to Over Clock my AMD 3500+ To a 4000+ On my Msi K8N Diamond plus motherboard
I have a gig of Kingston hyper x 400 and I was wondering how I would go about doing this
thanks so much for all you help. MSI DriversnVidia DriversAMD
I'd refer to the stickys at the top of the page for a start...
Have fun!

MOVED: MSI diamond plus FSB problem

This topic has been moved to Overclockers & Modding Corner.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=94322.0

You might get a better responce when you post in the correct area. The Via guys could not give a care about an NVidia board you know. LOL
Besides we have an area of the forum for overclocking discussions. Not in the main tech areas.
Topic moved.

MSI Diamond Plus questions galore

1) my 2 1 gig sticks are not showing up at ddr 400 acording to cpu z. How do i change this in bios, I know that sometimes this bios is a bit buggy. It gives me the option of cas 2. 2.5 3.0 Cpuz says 3.0 would put me at ddr 400. I have set the 1:1 in bios but it still does not show the correct thing. unless it me.
2 How do i update my bios, i am on xp 64 bit and it the msi install disk says it is not compatable with this mb. The bios link on msi's page is down even then they seem to only have a version for 2000/xp not xppro64 bit
3) for some dumb reason i can not get my 2nd monitor to show up. They both work. I've switched back and forth a 100 times now. Before i just used nvids wizard. but for some reason the wizard is skipping over detecting a 2nd monitor. For reference i am running two 7800 gt's in sli. I have run through Xp's tutorials half a dozen times and i still can not get it to recognize the 2nd monitor? what could this be from.
4) this wireless g card i have is not working. Well more specifically the drivers install 25% and croak. it just hangs. Is this an issue with xp64 compatability or is it an issue with the guy typing this out.

Hello,
1) Did you set the RAM settings manually in BIOS? Have you tried putting them in slot 1 and slot 3? What type of Memory do you Have??
Recommended Memory Combination List
DIMM Slots
Max Speed
Green Purple Green Purple
DIMM1 DIMM2 DIMM3 DIMM4
S - - - DDR 400
- - S - DDR 400
D - - - DDR 400
- - D - DDR 400
S - S - DDR 400
D - D - DDR 333
S S - - DDR 400
- - S S DDR 400
D D - - DDR 400
- - D D DDR 400
S S S S DDR 400
D D D D DDR 333
S: Single Side
D: Double Side
2) There isn't any new bios updates yet for this board. When MSI releases a BIOS don't use Live update to flash it, might cause problems..
Drivers are here: http://www.msi.com.tw/program/support/download/dld/spt_dld_detail.php?UID=710&kind=1
You can contact MSI for a Beta BIOS if you like to try it...
3) Do you have the latest Drivers for your Video Card?
Assuming you have both monitors hook up to the main Video Card ( the one closest to the cpu) ?
Have you updated your drivers on your motherboard? You can get your nvidia SLI 16x drivers here: http://www.nvidia.com/object/nforce_nf4_winxp64_x16_6.83 <-- For Window XP RRO 64 bit.
4) Try downloading the updated Driver from the Company website and see if that works.
Is the Card in the Orange slot on the motherboard?

MSI Diamond Plus Vista Sound Driv

I have recently upgraded to Windows Vista Ultimate and now it seems I'm having the 'snap crackle pop' issue. I would have figured since Creative issued Vista drivers that this would have been resolved, but sadly no. I believe it might be possible I downloaded and installed the wrong driver since my Sound Card is an on-board card that has often been detected by windows as an SB Li've, SB Li've 24-bit and Audigy SE. Any help, advise or links to other forums would be great. Thanks.

http://global.msi.com.tw/index.php?f...no=7&cat3_no=6?<img height="5" width="" src="http://global.msi.com.tw/uploads/Image/little_icon/Bult_ar_org.gif" alt="">[color="#000000" face="Arial"><font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">Audio[color="#000000"] [size="+0"><img height="25" width="80" src="http://global.msi.com.tw/uploads/Image/product_img/other/mainboard/feature/7.channel.gif" alt="">? Creative sound Blaster Audigy SE audio
- 24-bit / 96KHz audio quality
- Up to 00db SNR clarity
- 7. Channel output supported
- Supports S/PDIF digital interface
- PCI 2.3 Specification compliant
http://techreport.com/reviews/2006q/...us/index.x?pg=
[color="#f8f8b" face="Arial">Audio[color="#ffffff" face="Arial">8-channel HD audio via [color="#ffffff" face="Arial">Creative Sound Blaster Audigy SE?
That is what I've found. So I'm going to try the Audigy SE Drivers and hope they work. Thanks for the reply.

K8n Diamond Plus Temperatures. Are mine high?

so i have been running speedfan lately and i thought it was giving me incorrect readouts on my temps inside my case. so i ran Hmonitor and i am getting the same temps. im not to sure on what certain temps actually are, nor do i know their typical range on my current system.
Temps at idle typing this right now:
Mainboard: 47C (what is the mainboard temp actually? what part of the actual mainboard is it reading from, southbridge, etc..)
CPU1: 31C (this is my 3500+ 939 Newcastle chip, even though in the BIOS it says i am running at 36C)
AUX: 41C (what is this temp actually recording from?)
Core: 42-45C (this is my northbridge i know that, but is it typical of the NB to change temps so quickly even at idle?)
Fan speeds at idle:
Sys Fan(Northbridge cooler): ~5820rpm (Hmonitor says 5600rpm)
CPU fan: ~1440rpm (this i am assuming is standard for a zalman 92mm heatsink
im really just wondering what the mainboard temp ACTUALLY is and if i should be worried about it being so high. also what is the auxillary temp measing, is my northbridge supposed to change temps so dramatically, and thats about it. oh also, i am running 2 7900gt's SLI's which hover around 50-60C so im not worried about them. also my ambient is around 21-24C(my assumptions since i dont actually have a temp in my room)

afaik there is no temp sensor in the northbridge. the temp sensor for the system is located on the mobo, usually in close proximity to the northbridge. the other readings you might have can be the following: GPU core, HDD and CPU.

K8N Diamond Plus chip temperatures

I do not have air conditioning, and with the arrival of summer I was having an apparent overheating problem, so I investigated further. MSI CoreCenter showed CPU and Sytsem were fine (low 50's under load). But when I started up the nVidia Monitor, my nForce chip was running high 70's.
The temperatures between CoreCenter and nVidia Monitor match well, and the nForce chip was darned hot to the touch, so I assume all the readings are reasonable.
The heat pipe appears to be working (the pipe is hot all the way up to the Zalman cooler, and there is a pretty good relationship between the System temp and the nForce temp - when nForce goes up the System temp also goes up). There is about a 28C degree difference between the System temp and the nForce temp. The little system fan on the MSI Zalman cooler modulates up and down to hold the 50C setpoint.
In summary, my system IDLES in an 30C room with:
CPU: 37C
System: 46C
nForce: 75C
That nForce temperature seems way too high to me. Anyone else notice this? Does it sound like something is wrong, or is this just the nature of the heat pipe solution on the nForce chip?
Thanks,
DJG
MSI Diamond Plus SLI x16 mobo (MS-7220?)
AMD Athlon 64 x2 Dual Core 4200+ running at 2.5GHz w/ Zalman CNPS9500 cooler
4 x Kingston HyperX 512MB ram (2 Gig total)
Dual eVGA 7800GT video cards in SLI mode w/ Zalman VF-700 CU coolers
Antec 550W True Power 2.0 power supply
Creative x-Fi sound card
Cooler Master Centurion CAC-T05 case with upgraded fans
Envision Professional Series 20" LCD @ 1600x1200

I believe there is some confusion here caused by the SLIx16 capabilities of the Diamond Plus board. Let me try to give a quick, non-technical explanation:
Back in the old days, there were three major chips on a board - the CPU, the Northbridge and the Southbridge. The Northbridge handled memory addressing and the AGP bus. The Southbridge handled most other communications (drives, serial port, etc...). Then AMD put their memory controller on the CPU chip, and the need for the Northbridge went down.
With the later nForce chips, nVidia started producing a one-chip solution. The Northbridge and the Southbridge were combined together in what became the nForce4 chip. Now there were only two major chips on the motherboard - the CPU and the combined Northbridge/Southbridge nForce chip. This was a a very popular solution, and so you saw a lot of motherboards and software and BIOS implementations that would only show two temperatures, the CPU and the SYSTEM. That's also why you only see two cooling solutions on a lot of modern motherboards, something for the CPU and that little high speed fan mounted right over another chip - the nForce.
With the release of SLIx16 nVidia had to go back to a two chipset solution. They probably ran out of pins or something, but they went back to the concept of a Northbridge (which handles one video card) and a Southbridge which handles the second video card and other communications). This is what the MSI Diamond Plus motherboard implements. So now there are three major chips on the motherboard again - the CPU, the Southbridge and the Nortbridge. But, since lots of software and BIOS implmentations altready existed that only showed only two temperatures they just stole the software and the naming. So the Southbridge chip became labeled as the System chip (and of course the CPU was still labeled as the CPU). But they have not added the Northbridge temperature to tools like CoreCenter (CoreCell?) or the BIOS.
That's also why on the Diamond Plus board you've got three heatsinks - one for the CPU, a heatsink with a heatpipe (the low profile chip underneath the video cards, with that stamped silver MSI label on it) for the Northbirdge nForce chip, and a Zalman copper heat exchanger over the System (Southbridge) chip.
The nVidia nTune version 5+ tool will reveal all three temperatures - the CPU, the System (Southbridge) and the nForce (Northbridge).
This thread is about the temperature of the Northbridge chip. Again, the standard tools of CoreCenter and BIOS do NOT show its temperature. But the nTune 5+ version does. On my board, both the CPU and the System (Southbridge) chips are running perfectly acceptable temperatures. But the nForce (Northbridge) chip is idling in the 70C+ range.
I'm trying to see if other people's Diamond Plus board are also seeing those temperatures. If you do not have a Diamond Plus board, this may not make much sense. But it is something I am worried about.
Thanks, and hope this helps clear up any confusion.
DJG

MSI K8N Diamond Plus - Guide to my first week

OK, not a newb here, but been around the block quite a bit. MSI K8N Diamond Plus is my 5th A64 mobo (ECS K8M800, my daily undestroyed computer, K8T800, my 12 year olds gamer, Asus A8V Deluxe, first 939 system, Abit AN8 SLI, first SLI gamer, and now the MSI Diamond Plus). Had the KDP (K8N Diamond Plus) for more than a week now, and here's what I've learned.
This is state of the art again, and we have no one to blame but ourselves for the pain this causes us when we upgrade like lunatics
And as usual, the drivers and BIOS are al Dente (i.e. not cooked enought yet, a little raw)
MSI is also oddly silent on this system, which is wierd, as they are a large company, and specifically cater to enthusiasts. But their BIOS guys are MIA. Hopefully this will not be forever. Asus, ABIT, DFI, Epox are always fast with fixes
The board is a nice design, with everything basically accessible, as much as any other board. Lots of purposeful components, not too many dumb frills. No tooty fruity colors, but rather practical parts.
The new 2 piece NForce chipset is fine, and the MSI guys gave us a decent, but funky cooler. It gets a little warm to the touch when you pound on it with Prime95, or Quake4, but other than that it is fine
The manual has a zillion typos, and fortunately for us in this forum, we have shared what we've learned. The translation from Chinese to English leaves quite a bit to be desired, and hopefully, MSI will learn from Asus and Abit and get a better translation service. In 2006 this is just plain stupid, especially with a $225 board
As usual, the mobo supplied tweaker utilities are just aweful. They look like a hallucination from a Hunter S Thompson book, and they work about as well. Core center is a sad state of affairs, and the rest of them just burrow their way into your otherwise stable system and cause it to have poor behavior. And therefore as usual, the BIOS is the best way, if slowest, to tweak this bundle of parts
Which brings us to the BIOS. IMHO, the worst one I've seen on a high end board. ZERO explanation for half the settings (this is not strange in and of itself, BIOS is still a black art, but in a tweakers board, we should have some basic explanation )
There seem to be adequate settings in the BIOS for all sorts of doodads and gizmos, but who the heck knows what half of them are. Roger points out rightfully, that we now need to "Tune" across all these different intermediary bus structures and test. But with the lack of info from either NVidia, MSI or anyone else for that matter, its kinda hard to know where to start.
The board is clearly sensitive, which is a result of it being high strung. This is no different than any "first out" product I've ever bought. Most take 2 or 3 turns of the crank to get totally stable and forgiving. This one hated my OCZ platinum EL 2Gb kit memory, and it brought out the worst in one of the SLI based EVGA 7800 GT COs. These components worked in the Abit AN8 SLI (although not always great), but the MSI has ZERO tolerance for even the slightest pertubation from the memory. It was BSOD city until I removed both of these components by process of elimination that took probably 100 hours
Once I removed the bad components, and replaced the memory with Geil Ultra X 2x512 2-2-2-5, it worked great, ran Prime95 for 10 hours with no errors, and seems reasonably stable. I've RMA-d the bad 7800GT CO back to EVGA, and will report back on how SLI behaves when I get the new one (cross shipped of course, I haveno patience )
I also now need to replace the 2Gb RAM kit with something that the board will tolerate. I may RMA the 2Gb kit back to OCZ and try another one, but I dunno. I love OCZ but I have a bad feeling about this, even though they have great!!! support. I may try OCZ PC4000 or the RAM that Roger successfully used.
I did upgrade to the 1.16 BIOS, and found that some new things were added, as well as voltage control in Cell was a little better, but registration of changes in voltage is still a disaster. I adjusted a bunch of times, it didn't register, and I ended up smoking a new A64 3700+ Diego with 1.95 volts, even though the BIOS claimed it was 1.53. I had to rebot to see what was going on. The Thermalright XP-90 kept the proc from melting down through the earth
Finally, I hope this board attracts more people, and therefore more tweakers that can figure out all these gadgets and settings. Everyone flocked to the Asus X16 SLI product, which is too bad, as this one needs lots o' folks to hack it up for us to figure out what is going on.
The on board Creative audio sounds lousy to my ears, and I will replace it with an Audigy 2ZS gamer that I had in the Abit. It just sounds better, but hopefully the drivers will not trash my newly stable system. Creative scares me, they scare me alot.
I've been able to get the CPU up to 2.4Ghz, with a .5 volt bump to the CPU and 2.9 volts into the Geil memory. So far, so stable, no smoke coming out yet
I hope this info is somewhat valuable to someone on this board. I will post details of all changes that I make, as others are doing, so we can at least take care of ourselves with this thing.

Quote from: nanohead on 15-February-06, 01:17:10
Which brings us to the BIOS. IMHO, the worst one I've seen on a high end board. ZERO explanation for half the settings (this is not strange in and of itself, BIOS is still a black art, but in a tweakers board, we should have some basic explanation )
There seem to be adequate settings in the BIOS for all sorts of doodads and gizmos, but who the heck knows what half of them are. Roger points out rightfully, that we now need to "Tune" across all these different intermediary bus structures and test. But with the lack of info from either NVidia, MSI or anyone else for that matter, its kinda hard to know where to start.
first of all, i do think that all the settings in the BIOS have an explanation in the manual, even if it's a basic one. if that explanation doesn't tell you everything in detail, is because if you do need a detailed explanation of the settings, you probably shouldn't be messing around with those settings.
Quote from: nanohead on 15-February-06, 01:17:10
I did upgrade to the 1.16 BIOS, and found that some new things were added, as well as voltage control in Cell was a little better, but registration of changes in voltage is still a disaster. I adjusted a bunch of times, it didn't register, and I ended up smoking a new A64 3700+ Diego with 1.95 volts, even though the BIOS claimed it was 1.53. I had to rebot to see what was going on. The Thermalright XP-90 kept the proc from melting down through the earth.
wanna tell me how did you get 1.95V on that mobo?
Quote from: nanohead on 15-February-06, 01:17:10
I've been able to get the CPU up to 2.4Ghz, with a .5 volt bump to the CPU and 2.9 volts into the Geil memory. So far, so stable, no smoke coming out yet
a 0.5V bump? again, you must be joking. maybe 0.05V.

MSI Diamond + first post @255 mhz

Hello everybody,
I am new here, just got my diamond plus mobo and am able to post @255mhz stable.
my system is:
opt 148 cab2e 0546 @255x11
msi diamond plus
ocz modstream 520w psu.
2x512 G skill bfr ddr600
gigabyte 6600gt gaphic
Themaltake xaserV gaming tower v7000d
zalman znps 9500 led
2x wd 160g sata2 in raid 0
SONY DVD RW DRU-720A
i want to overclock it higher but i am not sure if it fry my cpu or somthing could you guys give me some advice i would appreciate very much
right now i have an isue with the mobo chipset sensors i can't monitor temperature at all .
thanks in advance

Quote from: hienokc on 21-February-06, 14:43:59
Hello everybody,
I am new here, just got my diamond plus mobo and am able to post @255mhz stable.
my system is:
opt 148 cab2e 0546 @255x11
msi diamond plus
ocz modstream 520w psu.
2x512 G skill bfr ddr600
gigabyte 6600gt gaphic
Themaltake xaserV gaming tower v7000d
zalman znps 9500 led
Hi there can you try somthing for me please, i see you can overclock so this is why i am asking you, can you set your multyplyer to x9 and see if you can take the FSB passed 300MHZ as it seems there is a problem with this motherboard going over a 300MHZ fsb, as you know you will need to reduce your memory and put this on adivider of 5/6 insted of 1/1.
If you would not mind doing this it will help us all in the end as the extra band width is far better than a higher multyplier as more data can flow at faster speeds.
2x wd 160g sata2 in raid 0
SONY DVD RW DRU-720A
i want to overclock it higher but i am not sure if it fry my cpu or somthing could you guys give me some advice i would appreciate very much
right now i have an isue with the mobo chipset sensors i can't monitor temperature at all .
thanks in advance

My new Diamond plus pt2... a pointless thread!

Hi all
OK, my last post title stated that my Diamond Plus was crap. Well it's not Let me explain. My last build was about 2 1/2 years ago. it wasnt top of the range but still a good computer, some of the parts are in my new rig. Now that build was so easy. All I had to do was push everything togeather and flick psu switch and everything worked 100% first time. :D and it's been great ever since. All I ever upgraded was the memory to 1gb.
Now I've upgraded to a mother board with the latest technology designed to run at the speed of light, and this is where my problems started. First off the psu. no pci-e connectors, and only rated to 350watts. second a soundcard that doesnt like nVidia for some reason and memory, or maybe a cpu, that very picky on how fast it can run.
So in a hurry I bought a cheapish psu, problem 1 solved, for the short term, then games would crash and prime95 would report errors all the time. So I messed around with the memory timings in bios, with help from a few peeps on here, and now has been rock solid. although prime will get upset between 1 and 2 hours.
Now thats left to sort is the sound card.
Spose what I'm trying to say is. is. is.... Computer building is becoming a fine art. where you cant just bolt things togeather anymore. you have to tune each part to make it work. and sometimes it may take a week or two to do that.
I now LOVE my MSI Diamond Plus and would recomend one to anyone else looking for a simular build.

Everyone's comments here are 100% true. You need to have the nerve to explore in new terrain in order to do this. If you had any doubt in yourself, you'd either pay someone to build a rig for you or go out, sell out, and buy a frackin' Dell. Patience is also vital in computer building because without it, you won't be able to find the answers to your questions and solutions to your problems.
Building rigs can be fun as well as frustrating. Last rig I put together lasted two years before I considered a new system. Heck, that two year old rig is still ticking strong and I plan on reselling it. At the end of 2003, I bought absolutely every latest and greatest piece of hardware on the market including hard drives up the wazzoo, but there was no power supply on the market at the time that could keep a rig with 8 hard drives, a high demand video card and motherboard happy. I pretty much refunded everything and went from large to small. I built an 865P chipset Shuttle SFF Cube PC, P4 2.8C with Hyper-threading @ 3.02 GHz, 1GB DDR433 Dual Channel RAM, SATA 250GB drive, single DVD recorder, GeForce FX 256MB, Analog video conversion capture card and the rest of my raided hard drives I put them in external firewire enclosures. Ran games, edited film, designed 2D and 3D graphics and finished my thesis for my Bachelor's Degree on it like the champ that computer was. The point I'm trying to make is that we all either solve the issue and if we can't, we adapt.
Congrats on getting your rig straight. Inadequate power supplies can seriously put a blemish on a computer so choose yours based on wattage and reputation wisely. Personally, I've got a Themaltake 650w to run my rig.
On a sidenote, I think SLi has been the best computer investment EVAH. And ultimately, if you build a rig properly with the right components, a two year run should be more than worth it.
LPB

Diamond plus

will my psu the seasonic s12 600w work with msi diamond plus? Does it require anything more than the 24pin and 4pin connector?

kingdomwinds, As far as heatsinks go I have been reading lots of good things about the Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 Pro http://www.arctic-cooling.com/cpu2.php?idx=80&disc= or for the serious the Thermaltake Big Typhoon http://www.thermaltake.com/coolers/4in1heatpipe/cl-p0114bigtyphoon/cl-p0114.htm. The Freezer64 Pro is the cheaper of the two and is a good performer and unlike others does not require any removal of the m/b to install, it uses the stock mounts!. That's why it's at the top of my list. I looked at others like the Hyper6+ which are all first class units but they all require removal of the m/b to install. Not really what I wanted to do after the fact but would look at if doing a new build.

Diamond plus question

Hello all, i was wondering if the MSI Diamond plus needs amplified audio or can i just you regular speakers....
I ask because if i use normal speakers i get almost no sound. If i use amplified 5.1, i get good sound.
also, my computer doesnt want to use my USB headset after the first time i use it

Go into start menu all programs, accessories, audio devices and play around with the settings use ceative instead of windows default! I had the same experience when I first go my board up and running!!!! No you dont need 5.1 I only use 2 cyber acoustic speakers and they thump considering I only spent $30.00 the onboard audio is awesome you just have to configure it as suggested , also if you use the creative media source player in conjuntion with the onboard the sound quality is superb!!!
Brother Esau

Msi diamond plus temperature

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