MSI K8N Neo4 SLI motherboard: Creative Onboard Sound

Hello all,
This is my first time on this forum, and I hope you all can help me. I have an MSI K8N Neo 4 SLI board.  It comes with Onboard Creative 24bit sound.
Now, lately I have had problems with it.  One day, it just stopped working.  I thought it was somewhat weird and just reinstalled the drivers.  It worked for a while longer and eventually quit again.  Well, it was time for a reformat anyway, so I thought a clean installation of drivers would solve the problem. Well, it didn't.  Now, I have downloaded the latest drivers from the MSI website, and they allowed the sound to work for one evening, but this morning it is dead again.  My computer says that all hardware is working fine.  I havn't had a bluescreen, and the music plays in the Windows Media Player, I just can't hear it through the speakers.  My speakers do work fine because I have tried many different speakers, and none of them change the dead silence outcome.  I hope my onboard sound is not dead!  Please reply if you know anything else that I can do...

I didn't want to start a new thread with the same topic, usually get flamed everywhere else for that...
Anway
AMD Athlon XP 64 3500 socket 939
2gb PC3200 Ram (1 x 1gb / 2 x 512mb sticks )
ATI Radeon X800XT PCI Express
3 x 250GB SATA western digital drives
Windows XP Professional with latest service packs etc...
Got the latest motherboard bios from live update,latest creative drivers from their website etc...
**Edit** also worth mentioning my system starts very slowly if I have my onboard sound enabled and doesn't run at what I'd call 'normal' if I turn it off in the bios my system works perfectly.

Similar Messages

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    A.J.

    Quote
    And specifically using the onboard sound of a MSI K8N Neo4 Platinum Motherboard?
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  • MSI K8N Neo4/SLI SB Live! 24 bit CA 0

    Hello,
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  • Bios Settings For MSI K8N Neo4/SLI Platinum MB

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  • Newly Built System. MSI K8N Neo4/SLI Plat with AMD X2 3800 Crashing in all Games

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    Welcome to the forum DaaDoctor
    If you creat a signature (in profile) it will save you having to type your spec's  out each time or us looking for it. Use mine as a template.
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    Then there is a post here in the forum where some guys are talking about the replacement of that hsf and I think they did find one of some brand that I do not recall at the moment, but search here and you will find it...
    Be well....

  • MSI K8N Neo4 SLI Platinum / HDD_LED Problem

    Hello,
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    Quote from: Jesteronyer6 on 23-July-05, 08:10:26
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  • MSI K8N NEO4 SLI - RAM Detection

    Hello,
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    Sorry if this seems to be confusing....
    Alexander

    Quote from: DARTH_TSUNAMI on 29-October-06, 04:54:12
    Im going through the same problem, memory detection on dbracket, i´ve tried using diferent memory and stuff, i have a 3500+ here but im not sure it that would work, im gonna try it later.
    anyway i wanted to know if u guys solved your problems and how u did it, cheers
    you should start your own thread on this issue. also give us the amps on the 12V line for that PSU. a detailed description of your problem and your troubleshooting up to date would also be nice.

  • Sudden shutoffs with MSI K8N Neo4-F motherboard

    I have reviewed other posts on this forum and it appears that this is usually a PSU problem, but mine is somewhat recurring, so I thought I would post to check.
    I built this computer ~3 years ago. After a couple of years I would experience random shutoffs. Either when I was using the computer or not, the computer would suddenly shutoff without warning ~ once or twice a day (often but not always associated with reading/writing to a second hard drive as part of a backup routine). In order to start the computer again I have to unplug it, wait for the flashing power light to turn off completely and then plug it back in again.
    I replaced the power supply with a RAIDMAX Hybrid 2 RX-530SS +3.3V@28A,+5V@34A,+12V1@20A,+12V2@17A, [email protected], [email protected] and the problem was corrected for several months.
    A few days ago the problem reappeared exactly as it was before. What is the probability that it is again the power supply? Could something about the motherboard be frying the power supplies? I don't have access to another one so I would like to narrow it down before I have to replace something. Replacing this old 939 motherboard won't be easy, so I hope to avoid this. 
    Thanks!

    I got a new one of the Raidmax power supply, which did not resolve the issue. Because the same exact configuration had worked for over 100 days (and for about 2 years with a previous, weaker power supply), I decided it was the motherboard. I realize this wasn't an ideal power supply, but again, the fact that this configuration had worked for so long indicates to me that it is very unlikely to be the power supply (unless the motherboard has become more picky with time).
    I replaced it with a ASRock 939Dual-Sata2 and everything appears to be working great now!
    Thanks for everyone's suggestions. I thought I would update the status so that other people searching in the future would know that replacing the motherboard could solve these problems (although because I didn't replace with the same motherboard I can't be 100% sure that it was solely to blame here).

  • MSI K8N Neo4 SLI Platinum power requirements

    Is it true that it needs a -5v rail on the PSU in order to properly power the onboard SB live?

    The 12 volt and 5 volt rail are allowed a 10% tolerence and on very high end PSU they actually go 5%.
    12 volt +/- 10%= 13.2 max and 10.8 min
    12 volt +/- 5%= 12.6 max and 11.4 min.
    The biggest mistake you can make is using software to check voltages. Software and BIO (BIO is just software) readings are not accurate.
    The only way to see what is really going on is to backprobe your P/S connector or a molex cable while system is booting, running and then under load using a multimeter.
    I will include a little thing that I made up a few years ago for someone else, mind that it is a few years old but most of the ratings still hold true and you can adjust it to meet your needs. Like a few others I think that might have memory issues or maybe a driver problem.
    Here it is then:
    A 7200rpm HD draws around 20 watts, this 20 watts includes both the 5v & 12V rail.
    HD and CD's generally are figured at 2 Amps per device, let’s brake this down some.
    Spin-up: 12V x 1.3A + 5V x 650mA = 19W
    Read/Write/Idle: 12V x 350mA + 5V x 700mA = 7.75W
    Seek: 12V x 675mA + 5V x 725mA = 12W
    Those would be typical for a 7200 rpm IDE drive. As you can see a HD requires more power at start-up then during actual operation. This is why sometimes a PC takes a few tries to start up before it will actually make a successful boot and once it boots to windows all seems well or sometimes a occasional restart, which would indicate a weak/ bad P/S.
    Now to find the power used by the CPU you can check either AMD or Intel for the spec sheets on that CPU or you can follow this link that has tons of CPU ratings, CPU specs.
    Some more basic mathematics… When a 12-volt circuit is drawing 10 amps, it is consuming 120 WATTS of electrical power. 12 Volts X 10 Amps = 120 WATTS.
    This is the formula: P = E x I
    P - Watt (power)
    E – Voltage (electrical pressure)
    I – Amperage (current flow)
    Serial/PS-2 ports draw <35mA and if you have USB ports then they have a maximum of 500mA per port, again only if they are used- no use means no draw.
    The PCI slots are allowed 5A of the +5V, 0.5A of the +12V and 7.6A of the 3.3V Max per slot, again that is if the slots are used. So if the serial ports, PS-2 and USB ports are being used you are looking at around 5A draw on the MB, which would be around 20 Watts.
    So now we can add things up. (This is just an example of a basic system)
    MB=20W
    CPU= 60W, used as a norm.
    HD=20W
    CDRW=25W
    DVD=20W
    Graphic card=15W / newer GF4 and ATI 9000 and up= 35W
    RAM 10 Watts per 128 MB
    Network Card 5 Watts
    Average per PCI Card 8 Watts
    Total around 200W for this example.
    Now this will fall on different rails and that is were things get tricky, because as you see in my above break down of the HD that a HD use's both the 12V & 5V rail. This is why it is important that the 12V rail be at least 18 Amps if you plan on having more then 1 HD and case fans. Then you have the 3.3V & 5V rails that need to be strong too, the 3.3v rail is actually not so important with newer DDR MB and today’s CPU’s as it is mainly supplying the PS-2 ports power as well as some device cards. Most newer MB use the 5v and 12v rails mainly to supply the demands of today’s devices.
    Now this 200W is the bare min what is needed for things to run but in the real world you will want to add 50% to the 200W for your min P/S need, this allows room for spikes and heavy demands and a little head room to add hardware in the future.

  • MSI K8N Neo4-F Motherboard fault

    Just thought I'd let you all know about a fault I discovered on my motherboard.
    On the underside near the PCI slot furthest from the PCI-E slots there was some solder that was a little messy, causing a short.  It killed the card that was in that slot (cheap PCI modem).  Once tidied up worked great, but I had suffered for 3 weeks trying to determine where the driver faults were coming from!  Thankfully all is sorted now, but thought you might want to file that away for future reference.

    I got a new one of the Raidmax power supply, which did not resolve the issue. Because the same exact configuration had worked for over 100 days (and for about 2 years with a previous, weaker power supply), I decided it was the motherboard. I realize this wasn't an ideal power supply, but again, the fact that this configuration had worked for so long indicates to me that it is very unlikely to be the power supply (unless the motherboard has become more picky with time).
    I replaced it with a ASRock 939Dual-Sata2 and everything appears to be working great now!
    Thanks for everyone's suggestions. I thought I would update the status so that other people searching in the future would know that replacing the motherboard could solve these problems (although because I didn't replace with the same motherboard I can't be 100% sure that it was solely to blame here).

  • MSI K8N/Neo4-SLI Cold Boot problem

    Sup guys, my system won't restart whenever I crank the HTT to 239+. I heard it has something to do with the nForce4 chipset but I don't know how to fix it. I have the latest BIOS, chipset driver, video drivers, the whole she-bang, but still nothing. I'm currently running my 3000+ Venice @ 2151mHz (239x9) w/ a 4x HyperTransport multiplier (1.450vCore), 512mb x2 Corsair Valueselect @ 166 Mem index (default voltage) 2.5-3-3-8. Thanks.

    I used to have corsiar vs and it wont go much higher for you...the stix just crap out after a while.  If you want more, you have to go with more expensive mem stix like crucial ballistix or patriot xblk/other tccd mem.  Just my 2 cents.   

  • Water block for MSI K8N Neo4 SLI

    Guys, I want to improve stability by adding a water block to the nforce4 chipset but there isn't much clearence underneath the second EVGA 6800GT.
    Does anyone know of a waterblock with a low enough profile to fit underneath the card?

    Click Here, this might work

  • Anybody have an "MSI K8N Neo4/sli and?

    Just a quick question, my cpu temp goes down when a fan is blowing over the mobo, do you guys have the sam prob? I get like 36ilde 40 load w/o a fan and 32/36 with a fan. I normaly dont have a fan because I have water cooling.
    Edit: the temps are at stock speeds with a athlon 4000, and when I overclock it to 2.9hgz, the temo goes up 2/3degrees. And I got better temp oon air, about 34/38, with a Thermaltake heatsink.
    Oh, and before somebody asks if I have platinum or diamond, niether
    http://www.msicomputer.com/product/p_spec.asp?model=K8N_Neo4/SLI

    The temp sensor itself is inside the die of the CPU, the external IC that makes useful data out of this is the Winbond W83627THF.
    It is located on the very "top right" edge of the board right by the power connector and the memory slots.
    picture from Hardocp(chip at lower right):
    http://www.hardocp.com/image.html?image=MTEwNzMxNTk1OEc0eDNITDVkeFVfMV81X2wuanBn
    Honestly I am not sure the exact point where the "heating effect" comes from.  Wheather it's the actual heating of the Winbond chip or the traces on the way to the chip run too close to something hot.  Either way the lack of air circulation on the top half of the board when using, for example water cooling, creates the "false temperature" readings.  Obviously the more pressing issue besides false readings, is the fact when not using air cooling, we are removing cooling from the VRM's, RAM, etc, etc which can easily shorten their life and/or produce instability.

  • My MSI K8N Neo4 SLI board settings

    Here are a few snapshots of my current settings. Looking for some feedback or recommendations. Thanks.
    [ ERROR: SPECIFIED ATTACHMENT MISSING ]

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