MSI Neo4 Plat SLI. Help with sli setup (rma time)

Hi everyone.
I'm new to the sli world. I am having an issue with setting up the second video card. Runs great with one card as soon as I install the second card and try to play a game or run 3dmark03 the screen goes blank and the system reboots. I reversed the sli card made sure it was seated good, enabled the nvidia settings to dual cards.
Is there a bios setting? I might be missing or something. Please help this newbe, I'm getting frustrated.
Thanks.

Anyone?????? I am going to RMA this sucker.....Updated to 3.30 and now it doesnt see the other video card. try to shut down and it reboots....aaaahhhhhhgggg .......Can not get a hold of MSI tech support (Non existant).....Hmmmm should tell me something.
Sorry for venting

Similar Messages

MSI Neo4 Plat. SLI

MSI Neo4 Plat. SLI
FX-55
Antec 550 True Power
NEC DVD Rom
2GB OCZ Platinum Ram
and a single 7900 GTX
I was browsing some forums last night, and suddenly heard a loud *CRACK* from my computer. ???
The computer froze, but did not turn off.
Attempted a hard boot, and nothing not even a POST responds.
Popped open the content's, to see what might have happened.
And under the edge of my video card I notice that the SLI Switch Card has come loose. The little black plastic thing that was supposed to keep it in place had popped out. I attempted to place it back in to see if this would correct the problem (afraid it will not), but it will not stay securly lodged into place.
Any suggestion's on how to get the SLI Swicth Card Black Pin thing to work, or a work around to it, in order to test the system and see what, if anything else might have blown before I go for an RMA?
Thank you for any help or suggestions.

With regards to the small black pin that holds the SLI card in place, I have to admit that its a very poor design from MSI. I can think of two ways to fix it, and both would require you to strip the mobo down and remove it from the case.
1: would be to build up the "small ball" part of the pin with a blob of glue,(epoxy) so that it cant pop thru the small hole in the mobo.
2: Same idea as the first but using a hot knife or a soldering iron tip to flatten out the "small ball" part of the pin. (BE VERY careful not to over do it).
Best option tho would be to RMA the board.
Its the loud crack that you heard that worries me tho. Was it the physical sound of the SLI bridge card coming out or was it more of an electrical type crack that you heard?
Best thing to do would be to strip back to bare basics and try to go on from there, ie one video card, one memory stick and one H/Drive, Reset the BIOS, and set BIOS to boot from cd and see what happens.
As for getting a new pin from them, I would drop them an email, depending on where you live they might be able to post one to you.

Using the "silicon controller" on the MSI NEO4 PLAT SLI, quick question!

I have a stable OC w/ my FX55 (261x11) 2.87GHz, but now I want to use the Silicon Controller, and not just my NVIDIA controller. Does the MSI NEO4 PLAT SLI "LOCK" the silicon controller, so since my FSB is OC'ed, I dont want any problems.... By not using all 4 ports on the NVIDIA controller, will this maybe "relax" the nvidia controller, and not let it work so hard, or does it not matter. (overall speed wise)

Quote from: newls1 on 12-April-05, 08:06:00
I have a stable OC w/ my FX55 (261x11) 2.87GHz, but now I want to use the Silicon Controller, and not just my NVIDIA controller. Does the MSI NEO4 PLAT SLI "LOCK" the silicon controller, so since my FSB is OC'ed, I dont want any problems.... By not using all 4 ports on the NVIDIA controller, will this maybe "relax" the nvidia controller, and not let it work so hard, or does it not matter. (overall speed wise)
All of the PCI-E devices are locked, so that includes the SiI3132 controller and the Marvell Gigabit NIC. One note, it's best to use the SiI3132 "last". AnandTech did a benchmark of the two controllers, and the onboard nVIDIA controller was faster, although the 3132 PCI-E controller was much faster than the competitions use of PCI based SiI3112 controllers. If you've already used your nVIDIA controller for 4 SATA or SATA II devices, then by all means use the SiI3132 without overclocking fear.

Newbie with MSI neo4 Plat

hey there,
my 1st post here.
MOBO: MSI Neo4 Plat
Graphic: MSI 7600GS
CPU : AMD X2 3800+
power supply: 500W
recently i got this problem. Randomly my display goes blank, like the PC is on standby. The pc seems to be running but the monitor seems to be set to standby.
after i restart the PC(only able to do by the reset button, cannot Ctrl+Alt+del) everything seems to be ok.
the problem seems to occur randomly.
anyone have any idea what's going on here?
thanx for reading.
cheers!

Quote from: okta on 02-June-06, 00:35:16
hey there,
my 1st post here.
MOBO: MSI Neo4 Plat
Graphic: MSI 7600GS
CPU : AMD X2 3800+
power supply: 500W
recently i got this problem. Randomly my display goes blank, like the PC is on standby. The pc seems to be running but the monitor seems to be set to standby.
after i restart the PC(only able to do by the reset button, cannot Ctrl+Alt+del) everything seems to be ok.
the problem seems to occur randomly.
What kind of monitor, how is it connected and does it use calibration software. I've seen this with Samsung (and some OEM brands made by Samsung) monitors, which use Magictune, connected to the DVI port. Basically Magictune is crap ands clobbers the monitor's EDID info so that it switches to the VGA port - you can check this by plugging in the VGA cable. Depending on the monitor, it can cause permanent damage to the monitor's firmware which requires a firmware re-burn... or as apparently in your case, temporary damage which is fixed with a reboot. The only solution is to get a newer version of Magictune.. or dump it completely.

K8N Neo4 Plat. boot delay with Canon MP390

Hi everyone!
My problem is the following:
My K8N Neo4 Plat. based computer got a huge delay (5mins!) on POST at boot (right after CPU name listing) when my Canon MP390 multifuntion USB printer is connected. I already know its caused by a conflict between the printer's card reader and the mobo, something maybe related to the mobo trying to boot on the card reader. Could be something else, but for now that's the only explanation i could find.
I red all post here concerning USB boot problems (or delays) and tried everything i could and red without results
Things that have been done (and much more!) :
- Flashed to latest v1.5 BIOS
- Disabled booting to other devices in BIOS leaving only floppy, cdrom and HD as bootable devices
- Disabled support for USB KB/storage devices in BIOS
- Unplugged Mitsumi floppy/cardreader combo drive (USB internal)
- Unplugged front panel USB and D-Bracket2
- 2 days of various tests with other computers, printers, psu, USB devices I had in store
I'm about to give up on this one! .. Anyone got ideas other than buying a new multifuntion printer? Could it be a defective mobo?
Thanks!
Rivendell
Computer specs are:
Athlon64 4000+, MSI K8N Neo4 Plat.
2x512MB PC3200 (OCZ 1GB KIT PN: OCZ4001024PDC-K)
Sapphire X850XT PCI-E 256MB, WD Raptor 74GB SATA
Thermaltake Silent Power 480w PSU, NEC 16X DVD-+RW
Mitsumi floppy/cardreader combo drive (unplugged for testing purpose)

It might be related with BIOS. The BIOS 1.65 seems to resolve the quick boot issue. You can get it from MSI to try it.

Help With My Setup...

I Hope I'm in the right forum, If not let me know where this post should go.
Thanks for helping me out. I have some questions regarding my setup and acquiring new gear. Currently, I have a the following setup:
IMac - newer model
Logic Pro 9
Numark tt-usb turntable
Stanton DJ mixer
Pair of Yamaha HS80 monitors
MPD 24
I would like to add a keyboard controller (I'm thinking of the new Korg Microsampler). Basically, I'm willing to get the microsampler as long as it can Fully function like a controller, which can control logic synths & plug-ins(axiom, mpk, etc.) and as well as it's own features. Furthermore, I would like to to be able to record from my turntable to logic and into the microsampler. I understand I would need an interface. Would I still need the mixer? Would the M-Audio Firewire Solo work with my setup?
Would a control surface take place of an Interface?
I am possibly interested in getting a control surface that works good within logic. I was looking at the Euphonix MC Control, it seems to work great with logic. Is there an cheaper alternative? Also, I would like it to be user friendly, I am new to this.
Essentially, I want everything to work simple & smoothly. I like to make sample based music from records. Can you give me a rundown of the necessary items I'm going to need...cables, interface, etc.
Sorry, if I'm rambling just want to be clear.
I appreciate your time....

I use a Alesis multimix FW and a presonus inspire.
I would guess that you should always get dry sound from any output with firewire plugged in or not. My inspire uses a software control panel to route signal and the Multimix is all hardware. I have no clue how to route signal with the firebox but it has to be one or the other. Presonus is pretty good with updates and bug fixes did you check for new drivers?

Need some help with guitar setup...

jeez, never thought i'd be asking a question like this after playing for like 20 years, but i need some help with a guitar setup for mac. i'm gonna list out a lot of crap here that prolly doesn't affect anything at all, but here goes.
Imac 17inch G4 - latest updated OS X... 10.4, or 5, or whatever. garageband 3.0
digitech gnx-3
alesis sr-16
sure mic's
yamaha e203 keyboard
here's the setup:
yamaha is on its own on a usb uno midi interface, sure's connected to gnx's xlr port, alesis connected to gnx's jam-a-long input, '87 kramer vanguard connected to gnx's guitar input. currently running headphones out on gnx to line in on mac.
here's the problem:
everything works beautifully, but my guitar sounds like crap. if i plug headphones into the gnx, it sounds beautiful. that makes me think its some kind of level issue between the gnx's output, and the mac's input, but nothing seems to fix it.
by sounding like crap, i mean way too much bass. sound is muddy, blurry, not crisp... aka crap. i've tried altering both output and input on mac and gnx, and i cant get a combination that works. the gnx has a s/pdif out, can the mac accept that as input? might that help? short of running the gnx to my marshal half stack and mic'ing that, anyone have any suggestions, or use a similar setup?
any help would be greatly appreciated!

anyone? ... any suggestions? I think it might be an issue with the gnx pre-amping the signal as it goes out, and then the mac amping it on the way in, giving me a buttload more signal than i need, but since i cant find a happy level, i'm not really sure. i really dont want to resort to mic'ing my marshall... even with the volume almost off, my jcm900 is WAY too loud for apartment use. its not like i really NEED the guitar to sound perfect, i only use garageband to sketch out ideas for songs between myself and bandmates, but its really annoying to not have my customary crisp distortion. my bass player keeps telling me to use the built in amps, but, not to dis a practically free program, but the built in amps blow, at least after 10 years of marshall tube amplification they do. if anyone has any suggestions that might be helpfull on how i might resolve this, i would be your best friend for life and go to all your birthday parties

Need help with Printer Setup conventions

I can't get my Brother printer to print from one computer--but it prints okay from the other computer on my network. I need to know the conventions for the Printer Setup Utility.
There's a checkbox by every printer on the list. What does it mean when the checkbox is grayed out?
Some printer names appear in bold. What does that mean?
Thanx.

Thank you for your reply. I appreciate your help in this and just want to understand what you're saying.
As I say, the printer is displayed in the print dialog box but the checkbox is grayed out. I'm assuming that when you say "...it can't find/see them now," you mean the print dialogue can't see them (the drivers). Your last sentence confuses me. You say, "Do you maybe have Printer Sharing enabled & they aren't actually directly connected? If so you have to reboot after turning it off." A little confusion about your antecedents here. What isn't actually connected? The printer? So I have to reboot after turning it off, "it" I suppose is the printer, is that right? I will try that. So turn printer off, reboot, turn printer on. Right?
I will describe my problem. l thought that if I understood why the checkbox was grayed out I might see what my problem was. If you want me to start another topic I can do that.
Problem: I have a network with 2 computers and the Brother
multifunction fax/printer. I'm using an Apple airport hub. The printer
and one computer (Mac tower) are connected to the airport base via
ethernet. The 2nd computer (Apple laptop) is on the wireless network.
Until recently i could print from both computers. Now I can't print from
the tower. But I can still print from the laptop.
When I try to print from the tower I get an error message that says, "Cannot print from current printer." I have rebooted, reinstalled printer drivers, checked cables, deleted printer from printer list and re-added printer all to no avail. But as I say, I can still print from the laptop which is using Airport. So the printer prints, the hub connects to the printer okay (ethernet) and I know the tower connects to the hub (I can ping the printer okay from the tower.)
I am conversing to Brother support via email and their first suggestions I have already tried. Perhaps there's some problem in the network, but I can't figure it out. Worse yet, now when I go to the Network preferences I get an error message which says, "Your network settings have been changed by another application." THIS ERROR MESSAGE WON'T GO AWAY! I can click 'okay' but it reappears. I have to force quit the System Preferences to get out. If you can help with any of these problems I surely appreciate it.

Help with router setup

Hi I need help with my new infinity setup

seanyg wrote:
Hi I need help with my new infinity setup
Surely the openreach engineer did most of it, the rest as said is just plug and play.
(If I have helped you in any way to say "Thank You" please click on the star next to the message. Thank You)
If I have solved your Issue please click the "Mark as accepted solution" button.

Help with iTunes database and Time Machine after Lion clean install

I did a clean install of OS X Lion and think I've given myself problems with my Snow Leopard Time Machine backup and with my iTunes Library database files.
My iMac (2007) had become very sluggish so I opted for a clean install. Before the install of Lion my Snow Leopard 10.6.8 internal 1TB HD was at about 600GBs. I was using Time Machine to backup to an external 1TB drive. I had my iTunes 10.? library on the same drive.
For the Lion install I partitioned my internal 1TB HD into two partitions - a 250GB Lion boot partition and the rest for Lion data files.
Now I have two problems - 1. I can't work out how to re-connect my Time Machine backups, since they were related to a much bigger original drive, and 2. I can't seem to find my iTunes database files.
I also don't want to restore any application files at this stage, as I'm determined to do a fresh install of only the applications I need as I go along, and hopefully avoid the issues of sluggishness I had with Snow Leopard.
I have all my iTunes files in their pre-Lion external HD folder, but that folder does not seem to have the iTunes Library.XML or iTunes Library files. I didn't delete them so I'm hoping they were in my iTunes folder on my SL boot drive. But that drive was deleted during the install, so I'll be depending on Time Machine to restore the database.
Can anyone suggest a way to deal with Time Machine for my Lion install, and a way to restore my iTunes database? I'd like to keep as much of the Snow Leopard Time Machine data as I can, while continuing to do Time Machine backups from my Lion installation.
Anyone know where iTunes stores those database files, if not in the external drive iTunes folder? Spotlight search doesn't find the files, but is there a way to search my old Time Machine backups without having the Time Machine backups folder re-connected in Lion?
Thanks.

My iTunes folder is organised like this if it helps:
And iTunes uses them from the Prefrences like this:
Regards,
Colin R.

Cant go above 235fsb with MSI neo4 plat SLI

I have started OCing my rig and it seemed to be going very well until 235fsb, now i have reached 2.35gig on the 3200+venice and DDR470 2.5-3-3-7 timings, and this is @Vcore1.45, 1.6chipset voltage and 2.7 RAM voltage, i tested for stability with SuperPI 16mb test and it finished successfully.
the problem is that whenever i try to go beyond these speeds SuperPI never completes the 4mb or higher tests, i upped the Vcore to 1.51 and lowered the RAM to DDR200, but it seems like no matter what i do i can never finish the test not even at 2.37gig,
any ideas??
::EDIT:: i have come across something on hardocp review for this mobo:
"It seems that the board is limited to a 235MHz FSB with the Aggressive timing option in the BIOS Cell Menu screen enabled. Anything above that FSB and the system will not post. However, it is a vastly different story with the Aggressive timing option disabled."
now i am sure that i have disabled agressive timings, but i still have the same problem.
pls help.

I suggest you read the sticky above about overclocking a neo4 board, disabling a couple of bios settings is required, including cpu spectrum among others, you need to do some research before you make a statement like " I can't or it won't", you havent done your homework on this, and it kind of sounds like you have posted here to get some quick and easy answer..... you are going about this backwards in my opinion, if you would have researched you would have already known about this disabling of bios settings....before you go ahead any further I suggest that you take some time to get the basics down first or else you are going to hit a lot of unecessary brick walls and you might end up doing damage to your system, upping voltage is to be used with caution and not as a quick fix, your bios settings and lack of knowledge are the only thing holding you back right now, and btw expect for it to take a couple of days to get it down right, ocing is about careful and caculated trial and error and it usually isn't something you can do off the top of your head, different boards over clock differently, then throw in the variable of which speed of ram you are using, what type of ram, your cpu cooling solution, your power supply, lots of variable to work through...get my drift.
Good luck and have a good day.

MSI neo4 plat(non sli) sound problem.... and other problem...

hi
(sorry for my poor english)
FIRST ISSUE
ok here is the deal, i got no sound when using the rear panel of the mother board... but when i use the front panel of my case there no problem and i get sound....
after reading a lot on sound problem i try first to change my bios so i check the 1.8 and the 1.6 but still no result... , i also try to use the nvidia sound drive instead of the raitek one.... but still nothing ... in the system all appeare to be ok, windows dont detect any conflict on hardware on so one... even the nvidia mixer equaliser move... but no output...
i also read a litle about the compatibylity issue betwen the mobo and the atx2 PSU standard with the using of the 5v pin...,but as far i read it seem that this is only on the sli version...do this issue also concernt the non sli version ?can this explain my problem ?
SECOND
i got from time to time a bleu screem with the message DRIVER IRQL NOT LESS OR EQUAL.... can someone now what can cause this ?
thank

Hi!
I am also facing this problem with my K8N NEO4 Platinum Ultra.
I have even tested my PC with a PSU which is having -5v in it's rating.
I have also requested a help from MSI Support.
Their & My reply is as follows.
But still my problem could not be solved. My sound card as per the OS works fine and produces output. But no audible output for humans to hear.
This is the case with both front and rear panels.
I have even sent the MB for RMA but here in India, people are fools. Even from RMA the board was shipped back in the same faulty condition. What to say? Whom to curse? Only money and 20days were spent waiting for repair and in wain.
If any body can help it will be very nice.
Here is my reply to MSI:
My K8n Neo4 Platinum Ultra - earlier was giving good quality sound output. Later after 15 days of using this board, it does not give any audible sound at all. But through headphone socket of cd player I am able to receive good quality sound.
And also while using CD Player to play audio tracks, the output is very intermitent and feeble with lots of cracking noise and poor quality audio is heard.
Through Windows Media Player no sound is heard at all.
I reinstalled win2000/Win2000Server/Win2003 XP Server. In all the platform sound problem exists. Any solutions?
My PSU has 20amps in +12V rail and has no -5v. 24 pin adaptor with 400W.
SATA HDD 80GB WD. 256*2=512mb DDR 400 Ram.
CPU AMD 3000+ Winchester core.
Thanks in advance.
REPLY FROM MSI:
Dear SoftWheels:
Thank you for contacting MSI Technical Support.
With regard to yoru concern, we would like to know before the onboard sound function abnormally, if you have made any adjustment to your system hardware or software?
And at this time would you please try to un-install the sound driver in the Add or Remove Program, then install the ALC Series AC'97 Audio Drivers refer to the link below, after this please first check if in Device Manager there is any yellow mark.
http://www.msi.com.tw/program/support/driver/dvr/spt_dvr_detail.php?UID=637&kind=1.
AGAIN MY RESPONSE TO MSI:
Dear Sir,
Thanks for your reply. But reply does not solve my problem. I have tried all that you said in your reply.
I have done nothing to hardware. No electrical problems or burning.
Due to no sound, I have even totally zero filled my SATA hard disk, updated bios, re-installed

MSI Neo4 Plat/SLI missing Creative Audio Enable/Disable in BIOS

Alright I thought I was having some driver issues, but apparently it is a bit more in depth than that. I recently just updated my BIOS thinking I may get a resolution that way but i guess not. I was browsing the large thread about this board and noticed that someone made mention of just disabling the sound in the BIOS and using an external solution. Well there isn't an option in the BIOS. I know where to look...looked there before seeing the thread...I don't have a creative labs audio option in my BIOS. Didn't have one in the original BIOS either...I did spend some time in it before flashing it.
What could be causing it not to show up in the BIOS.
The board has been a bit squirrely...I can't get the onboard 1394 to actually find some available resources...I have seen posts where someone was having the same problem with the PCI Express Bridge (or something to that effect). I would be willing to just pop in another sound card, but I have my suspicions that something worse is going on, and the sound and 1394 are just symptoms of a larger problem.
I have seen the issues of usinga non -5v PS with this board. Although the problems seems to be functionality, not availability as is my case.
Any ideas before I make a phone call to MSI, I would hate to RMA this board as it has all of my condensation measures already in place.

We've had reports of missing bios items b4, they've been the 1394 & gigabit options.
Some have been solved by slackening mobo srews by 1/4 - 1/2 turn, or checking & finding surplus mobo risers which were causing shorts. Bios items missing
After eliminating that think it's get in touch with MSI time - sorry
luck

MSI Z77A-G65 - Need help with Overclocking

Hi all, I will list hardware first:
Motherboard: MSI Z77A-G65
Bios: Version 10.8
Graphics: 2x GIGABYTE GV-N670OC-2GD GeForce GTX 670 Windforce OC 2048MB in SLI
Power Supply: Seasonic SS-1250XM X-Series
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K Quad-Core Processor 3.5 GHz 8 MB Cache LGA 1155
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32GB (4x8GB) DDR3 1600 MHz (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory
Optical: 2x Lite-On Super AllWrite 24X SATA DVD+/-RW Dual Layer Drive
HDD: 3x Seagate Barracuda 2 TB HDD SATA 6 Gb/s NCQ 64MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive
HDD: 1x Seagate Desktop HDD 4 TB SATA 6Gb/s NCQ 64MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive
Sound: Creative Sound Blaster ZX SBX PCIE Gaming Sound Card with Audio Control Module
SSD: 1x Plextor 512 GB SATA III Solid State Drive PX-512M5P
Cooling: Cooler Master Seidon 240M Liquid CPU Water Cooling System with Copper Heatsink and 240mm Radiator - 2 Fans
Operating System: Windows 8 Pro x64
Case: Cooler Master Cosmos II - Ultra Full Tower Computer Case with Metal Body and Hinged Side Panels
Alright, now you see what I have. That is just about everything excluding things like my wireless mouse and keyboard.
So, I have been perfecting this build for awhile now, but I'm not the most experienced at overclocking. I've used about 5-6 motherboards during about a year trying to get my 3770k to overclock. Yes, I wasted quite a bit of money. I recently RMA'd my CPU because I thought it was defective since I failed to overclock. Now, I have a brand new one. Then, I switched my 2133 G.Skill Sniper memory for more basic Corsair memory. I thought possibly it could have been my memory that was causing issues since it was about the only non-new part left up until now. Now, this build is has all completely new parts. I don't think anything is defective. Lastly, my OS has recently been installed. About 2 days ago. All drivers /windows updates are up to date.
Alright, I gave my opinion on my hardware / OS and explained that. So, now I will try to explain my overclocking attempts. I first tried to overclock using the basic OC Genie II settings untouched. However, that didn't work out for me. I did get BSODs eventually or programs that crashed. Sometimes, games have crashed. I'm not doing anything overly important on this computer. I have a lot of other non-overclocked computers for various things like work ect. So, I am free to be able to play with this computer and try to get it OC'd properly. So, don't worry about that. I've read about 10-20 guides on overclocking and such, and for some reason I can't get things to be stable to the point that programs don't crash or fail. It seems with the Z77A-G65, there's no offset voltage tweaking option. If there is, I can't find it. I've read a lot that if you disable all power saving and use a fixed voltage that it can be more stable than using an offset voltage. Higher temps and more power usage I know.
So far, I've tried both, and neither have really worked for me. If I put vdroop offset control to 100% my temperatures increase but it can handle it. So, I tried setting the CPU to be fixed at 1.3 while at 4.5ghz. That was still not stable. Prime was ok, but some games and programs crashed. So, it wasn't stable for real world usage. Most of the time actually prime will be ok unless I try to put it at 4.8ghz with mostly default settings. So, after I tried 4.5ghz and 1.3 fixed voltage with no power saving options on, I tried bringing the voltage up to 1.350 which increased the temperature under load to about 85C. This wasn't stable either, so I went up a bit higher, well alot in overclocking standards. I went up to 1.4 just to see the temperatures and it got up to about 85C a occasionally higher. This was not stable either. So I tried turning off all C states and other power saving options and setting the vdroop offset control to 100% while also setting the voltage to auto. This wasn't stable. Usually when I set the voltage to auto , it will crash at anything above 4.7ghz and not boot. Anything below that it will boot, and even be capable of running prime or intel burn test, but it won't remain completely stable with all applications. Even basic programs like Firefox crashes sometimes. I do have one program that is pretty nice for benchmarking in the real world, and that's Amazon's cloud drive uploader. I ran it for a bit and it will eventually crash if I'm overclocking. I have tried some games like Diablo 3, Borderlands 2, ect and they have crashed as well on a clean windows 8 install.
I've also tried some of the turbo templates that only OC during turbo boost but idle at normal speeds/ 1.6ghz. This wasn't stable either. So, I'm at a loss, I've tried Turbo overclocking, Fixed voltage overclocking, offset voltage overclocking, power saving options on , and power saving options off. No luck. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

First off, Ivy CPU's under conventional cooling solutions are terrible OC'ers. 85C is too hot for everyday use under stress. Mid 70C's or better still, less is recommended. All significant power saving features are lost once the CPU V. is taken out of Auto. VDroop at 100% supplies the most voltage and decreases it as the percentage is lowered. Turbo OC is often the best over a CPU Ratio OC. From what I can read, the CPU you have is average and should run stable at 44X or maybe 45X on Auto CPU V., all power saving features intact.
32GB of RAM is great for rendering, graphics and audio/video creation, but if the goal is a gaming machine, 8GB to 16GB is more than enough.
Added: Recommended settings; SA 0.965-0.970v's, PLL 1.82-1.84v's, I/O 1.07v's.

K8N SLI Platinum with SLI + X-Fi + TV tuner card

has anyone have the above mentioned working?
currently have 1 X 7800gt and a digital tv card. im thinking of getting an x-fi card + another 7800gt
it was a bitch to get the tv card working due to the silicon controller conflict. i can imagine how much bandwidth the x-fi and tv card would consume
so anyone has those combination working, i would really like to know
thanks

I can't tell you exactly what you are looking for, but for what you want to do, an SLI board is not the recommended setup.
And you've pretty much illustrated what I've been saying for some time.
That is why I have what I have in my signature, and the board sitting in a box on my shelf is a K8N Neo4 Platinum.
There may be more Tv cards based on the PCI-e hitting the market in the future. But an SLI setup in conjuction with a nice PCI sound card, and a PCI Tv Tuner is going to be a pretty good challenge. It may work, but you may experience flaky behavior.
If you do get this working, then let me know...

MSI Neo4 Plat SLI. Help with sli setup (rma time)

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