Msi newbie

hi
bought an AMD processor for the first time (was usin P4 till now)...and n MSI KT4 ULTRA - SR board n a GEFORCE 4mx 440 128ddr agp card..n have come up with my first little doubt....now whenever i play a game....my pc alert 4.0.5.0 starts soundin an alaram....at the voltage panel...the 2nd window...i cant make out whats wrong????
can some body help!!!??
accordin to pc alert 4:
CPU TEMP : 49.c
SYS TEMP : 44.C
VOLT:
VCORE: 1.62
3.3V: 3.12
+5V: 4.95
+12V 12.00
CPU FAN: 3245
SYS FAN: 0
PS FAN: 0
cant make out a thing....what should be the specified range???

look for a psu quotes over 200 watts combined 3.3 and 5 v
antec 400 watts up enermax 431 watts up
http://www.ocworkbench.com/2002/ecs/k7s5aguide/psuFAQ1.htm

Similar Messages

MSI Newbie - P965 Platinum SATA Recommendation

Hi folks. Just finished building a brand new machine from scratch and need some recommendations. First time dealing with SATA stuff and not familiar with it. This is what I have:
1.Product Type: MSI Motherboard - P965 Platinum (MS-7238-010)
2.BIOS version: 1.3.x
3.External VGA Type: MSI ATI Radeon RX1650XT-T2D256E (MS-V073-02S)
4.CPU Type: Intel Core 2 Duo 2.4 (6600)
5.Memory Type: 2x1GB Corsair TWIN2X2048-6400C4 (latencies 4-4-4-12 Voltage: 2.1v Frequency:800MHz)
6.Power Supply Type: Ultra-V Series 500w PS
7.Operating System: Going to install Windows Vista
8:Hard Drive: One 500GB Maxtor SATA-II drive currently connected to SATA7
So here are the questions:
1) What is the different between SATA7 and the rest SATA1-6
2) Should I leave my 500GB drive connected to SATA7? What is the best-practice? I am thinking of creating a RAID5 in the future that's why I left SATA1-SATA6 open.
3) What do I need to do in the BIOS?
4) Any other recommendation of hardware and BIOS setup?
Thanks in advance.

Quote
1) What is the different between SATA7 and the rest SATA1-6
SATA-Port 7 belongs to the JMicron-Chipset, SATA-Ports 1-6 to the Intel ICH8R-Chipset. It is important to know that in order to be able to choose the right drivers.
Quote
2) Should I leave my 500GB drive connected to SATA7? What is the best-practice? I am thinking of creating a RAID5 in the future that's why I left SATA1-SATA6 open.
RAID 5 should be possible with that Hard Drive hooked up to one of the ICH8R-Ports, even though it is not part of the Array. If it is hooked up to SATA-Port seven, it cannot be part of the ICH8R-based RAID.
Quote
3) What do I need to do in the BIOS?
The relevant Option for those devices that are associated with the JMicron-Chipset/Controller (IDE-Port, SATA-Port 7) is
"Integrated Peripherals --> Onboard RAID Controller". For Intel-ICH8R-Raid it should be set to IDE or even DISABLED, if no drives are attached to either SATA7 or the IDE-Port.
For optimal configuration concerning ICH8R-devices (RAID and non-RAID) check manual on page 3-14.
Quote
4) Any other recommendation of hardware and BIOS setup?
That depends on what you plan to do and on the actual hardware hooked up to the board.

Great Game Machine P4 3.0

Hello all you computer guru's
I`m pretty new to MSI check out my signature.
Pics to come once I get my mods done .
Anyone with some performance tips post them and I`ll do the same.(bios tweaks overclocking etc.) Been overclocking celerys since 98
So of course I overclocked my new rig and didnt like it. Stock heatsink so I didnt go crazy. Basically gains in processor speed = loss of memeroy speed for me.
The stok fsb with tight ram timings seems a bit crisper overall system performance to me.
Its neat to have it run at 3.6G stable but why if its overall performance is less mabey I`m doing somthing wrong like I said MSI newbie.
When I get gameplay problems (if ever) in a year or two then mabey I`ll overclock by then all questions should be answered plus price drop on good overclocking ram and extreme cooling setups and mabey even prescotts.
Please anyone with a stable rig like mine please post I shall reply.
Thanks and have a good New Year
I`VE SET THREAD TO EMAIL NOTIFCATION

No luck
Best ram will do is 2.5-2-3-5-8
Fsb @ 207-8 ram 1 to 1 system becomes unstable with ht and pat enabled.
Disable pat (slow) fsb @ 215 ram 1-1 system unstable with ht on even manually set timings to lose.
Tried 333 setting fsb@ 240 system becomes unstable even with lose timings.
Haven`t tried the 266 setting or disableing ht.
With these minor overclocks the loss of pat cripples my system as seen through benchmarking.
I wonder if good high end ram would solve these problems but from reading various postings here seems a bit of a mystery.
Granted not to many people overclocking p4 3.0s.
Lots of 2.4s but thats a different ball game none of those are running 1 to 1 ram or mat or ht as there bench marks reflect.
Or if they are thats the ram I want lol.......
Had some Centcom 3500 ddr it was ever so slightly better benchmarking but still wouldnt boot at ultra turbo or overclock any better.
Well thank you for the tips I`m going to add some benchmarks to my sig.

An OC Newbie Try to Break the World Record by Using MSI X99S XPOWER AC

Saw an article on MSI forum and thought it’s quite interested, so here I translate it. Don’t really have the time to translate it word by word, so go check here for the original article if you are interested (but you need to speak Chinese, lol…..).
link: forum-tc.msi.com/index.php?topic=113081.0
Long story short, a newbie got inspired by MSI MOA 2014
and started to dig in the OC world. After checking all the rules, he decided to try it on his own. Here’s the gear he used:
CPU: Intel i7-5960X 3.0G (8C16T)
RAM: HyperX Predator DDR4-3000 16GB Kit (4x4GB) CL15
MB: MSI X99S XPOWER AC
VGA: MSI GTX980 GAMING 4G x4
SSD: Plextor M6 Pro 256GB
Power: Cooler Master M2 1500W x2
CPU Cooler: SilverStone TD03
OS: Win 7 64bit SP1
MB
Easy button design and 3 sets of v-check point made it more user friendly for Ocer
Special extreme OC kit (contain with thumb drive, OC fan stand, Delid Die Guard and OC Backplate. Personally think it’s 4 handy tools especially for Ocer)
VGA
Here’s the pic. after assembling all the gear together
This newbie is using air cooling VGA & RAM + water cooling CPU to run 4 way SLI, below is the static under normal usage without OC.
3DMARK - FIRE STRIKE Extreme
3DMARK - FIRE STRIKE ULTRA
Then, he try to use OC Genie buttom push the CPU to Gear 2, CPU 3.7G, RAM 2400, below is the static under this circumstances.
3DMARK - FIRE STRIKE ULTRA
He did mention that overheating would be a major problem of 4 way SLI, water cooling should be a better solution instead of air cooling.
Anyways, after few times of trial, here comes the best combination he can get.
CPU
CPU Frequency: 4.6GHz
DRAM Frequency: 3,200MHz
VGA
GPU Frequency: 1,390MHz
DRAM Frequency: 1,803MHz
3DMARK - FIRE STRIKE Extreme
3DMARK - FIRE STRIKE ULTRA
He upload this onto the HWBOT and found that he ranks 29th place on Fire Strike Extreme and 6th place on Fire Strike Ultra. Looks good!
Link: hwbot.org/submission/2690492_ocbot_3dmark___fire_strike_extreme_4x_geforce_gtx_980_19149_marks
link: hwbot.org/submission/2690575_ocbot_3dmark___fire_strike_ultra_4x_geforce_gtx_980_11338_marks
To better show you the effect of using 4 VGA instead of 1, he used Assassin’s Creed Unity and did some comparison as below.
Single MSI GTX980 GAMING 4G: FPS will between 3X-4X, 50 at some points.
If using MSI GTX980 GAMING 4G * 4 without OC, FPS will between 50 – 70, same as what we heard, the improvement is not as much as we thought.
But when it’s under the loading process, it shows 7XX FPS
All in all, here’s his conclusion:
Under OC mode, MSI XPOWER AC’s stability does meet his expectation, and he’s satisfied with the extreme OC kit. “Memory Try It!” function in BIOS make it easier to adjust.
Oh well, it seems like it’s a good product to be expect!

Quote from: WSGRT on 23-January-15, 13:22:33
this newbie start with the most powerful rig!!! Btw, thanks for translation
Personally think it's quite impressive for a newbie to get such a great score.
And sure he choose a great product to start with!

MOVED: An OC Newbie Try to Break the World Record by Using MSI X99S XPOWER AC

This topic has been moved to User Reviews & Modding.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=252672.0

Quote from: WSGRT on 23-January-15, 13:22:33
this newbie start with the most powerful rig!!! Btw, thanks for translation
Personally think it's quite impressive for a newbie to get such a great score.
And sure he choose a great product to start with!

Need help guide overclocking newbie msi p43 neo

Hello i just wanted to ask for guide help tutorial ( no OC experience) on how to do a mild overclock my cpu e7400 + (msi p43 neo) my main goal is 3.0 Ghz with a 1333 fsb. Im still researching guides but its still a bit complicated. My concerns are on the bios high incriments on the cpu voltage adjuster i can only adjust with increments of 1.141 next is 1.441 then 1.641 is it too high? i am using the default bios. Im not planning on adjusting my memory its at 800 Mhz
ATM at the bios i can see my default fsb is at 266 x 10.5 = 2.8 Ghz my plan is adjusting it to 286 x 10.5 = 3.03 Ghz.
My question is how will i raise the fsb to 1333? by adjusting the fsb on the bios am i only adjusting the cpu clock? and is the cpu voltage same as the vcore( the thing they adjust when OCing ) which i cant locate on the bios only cpu voltage..
And as a backup plan if all fails when trying to OC flashing bios is the right thinkg to do?
really srry if this is the wrong place to post. If theres any links(guides) with pics same bios you can give would be a tremendous help. thx

Hi,
just a few first comments, so that you don't get onto the wrong track:
Quote
by adjusting the fsb on the bios am i only adjusting the cpu clock?
The FSB Frequency is the base frequency for both the CPU Frequency and the memory frequency. The CPU Frequency is always calculated like this:
(real) FSB Clock Speed x CPU Ratio/Mutiplier = CPU Frequency
The Memory Frequency is adjusted via the FSB/DRAM Ratio Option. If the FSB Frequency is set to 266 MHz the memory will run @DDR2-800 if the FSB/DRAM Ratio is set to 1:1l5...:
266 MHz FSB x 1.5 = 400 MHz (= DDR2-800 effectively)
When you raise the FSB Frequency you have to make sure that the FSB/DRAM Ratio you have set in BIOS will not overclock your memory beyond its specifications. It is not a good idea to leave the FSB/DRAM Ratio set to "AUTO" when you are overclocking.
Quote
My concerns are on the bios high incriments on the cpu voltage adjuster i can only adjust with increments of 1.141 next is 1.441 then 1.641 is it too high?
Have you browsed through all the values the BIOS allows you to set in order to check if there are other values available? Setting the CPU Voltage to 1.441 or 1.641 is not really something you should do. 1.441V is already quite high but 1.641V is definately too much. Leave the CPU Voltage on AUTO for now and see how far you can get without adjusting the CPU Voltage (check the actual Voltage with CPU-Z).
Quote
and is the cpu voltage same as the vcore
Yes.
Quote
my default fsb is at 266 x 10.5 = 2.8 Ghz my plan is adjusting it to 286 x 10.5 = 3.03 Ghz.
You probably won't need to increase any critical voltage levels for that. This is a really, really moderate overclock. Just see what happens if you adjust the FSB Clock Speed to 286 MHz without changing anything else in BIOS (well, keep Spread Spectrum and DOT disabled at all times when you overclock),
Quote
And as a backup plan if all fails when trying to OC flashing bios is the right thinkg to do?
No, that is definately the wrong thing to do. If the system refuses to start after you changed certain BIOS Options, clear CMOS with main A/C power cable removed from your PSU. This will erase all settings and make the BIOS prompt you to reset everything.

Newbie to overclocking XP2100+ / MSI K6 Delta

Hey everyone,
I just built my new system with an MSI K6 Delta and i've been very impressed with the motherboard so far. However, i'm wondering if anyone can tell me how safe it is to clock an XP2100+ (Thurobred Core).
I have not overclocked it yet as i'm new to this and dont' wanna do anything wrong without advice first.
FYI: the cpu has the AMD CPU heatsink/fan that came with the retail package. The CPU was put in with Thermal Paste and current runs at 46c idle and about 52/53 full load with no overlocking.
Rest of specs are in signature
Thanks to anyone who can give advice/help.
-Edge

you would really need to get some pc 3200 ram before you would get mutch out of it
read the wire trick link below re unlocking your cpu then with that and right ram
9 or 10 or more by 200 fsb is possible

Newbie with MSI neo4 Plat

hey there,
my 1st post here.
MOBO: MSI Neo4 Plat
Graphic: MSI 7600GS
CPU : AMD X2 3800+
power supply: 500W
recently i got this problem. Randomly my display goes blank, like the PC is on standby. The pc seems to be running but the monitor seems to be set to standby.
after i restart the PC(only able to do by the reset button, cannot Ctrl+Alt+del) everything seems to be ok.
the problem seems to occur randomly.
anyone have any idea what's going on here?
thanx for reading.
cheers!

Quote from: okta on 02-June-06, 00:35:16
hey there,
my 1st post here.
MOBO: MSI Neo4 Plat
Graphic: MSI 7600GS
CPU : AMD X2 3800+
power supply: 500W
recently i got this problem. Randomly my display goes blank, like the PC is on standby. The pc seems to be running but the monitor seems to be set to standby.
after i restart the PC(only able to do by the reset button, cannot Ctrl+Alt+del) everything seems to be ok.
the problem seems to occur randomly.
What kind of monitor, how is it connected and does it use calibration software. I've seen this with Samsung (and some OEM brands made by Samsung) monitors, which use Magictune, connected to the DVI port. Basically Magictune is crap ands clobbers the monitor's EDID info so that it switches to the VGA port - you can check this by plugging in the VGA cable. Depending on the monitor, it can cause permanent damage to the monitor's firmware which requires a firmware re-burn... or as apparently in your case, temporary damage which is fixed with a reboot. The only solution is to get a newer version of Magictune.. or dump it completely.

Help a newb connect his power supply cables to the MSI Z97 XPower AC?

My Background
I am mostly a software kind of guy, and this is my first time building a computer. I saved lots of money, did lots of research, and picked my parts.
So far, I've installed my CPU & Fan to the Motherboard, and mounted them to the case.
Now it's time to install my Power Supply. Mounting it to the case is easy. The problem comes when I have to connect the cables. The manuals don't explain the purpose of these cables or provide "step-by-step" instructions.
I've been searching for over an hour, but can't get a clear idea of what I'm supposed to do. So I'm hoping someone can help me here.
Hardware
Motherboard: MSI Z97 XPOWER AC
Power Supply: Seasonic X-1250
(EDIT: Forum does not let me link to the manuals, so for anyone who needs...please look online)
Problem
On page 29 of my motherboard manual, it shows 4 different power connection slots (JPWR1, JPWR2, JPWR3, JPWR4). Unfortunately, it doesn't explain what goes in them.
On page 59 & 61 of my Power Supply manual, there is listing of all the key cables.
I think the "Mainboard 24/20 Pin" cable goes into the "JPWR1" slot.
- So I am mostly confused about the other slots (JPWR2, JPWR3, JPWR4).
- Also, it's confusing that there are two CPU cables called "CPU 8/4 Pin" & "CPU 8 Pin".
Can anyone help me?

Quote from: myfamilyshopping on 24-March-15, 20:00:38
Hi guys, I have a follow-up question about my Seasonic PSU "PCI-E cables".
The way my PCI-E cables are designed is...
There's one end which is a single cable with a 12 hole connector...that goes into the PCI-E port on my power supply.
But then the other end splits out into two different cables, with each having a sort of 6/2 connector.
So regarding the end that splits out into two different cables...
Can each be used on different PCI-E devices?
Or is it the case that because my PSU has 3 PCI-E ports (and 3 of the cables I described)...that only 3 PCI-E devices can be powered?
all can be used however you plan to use them! all them connectors are tied to a single 104amp +12v Rail so they are getting power off a single Rail!
as long as what you plug them into do not exceed the Rail's ratings your fine (would take quite a few Graphics cards to get above that) (basically if it works it works) (would take like 2 R9-295x2's or 4 R9-290X's to get to that point)

Newb Question MSI K8N Neo Platinum.

okay i have my parts coming in for my first build ever(i'm nervous, but anxious at the same time) and i just got my MSI K8N Neo Platinum today, all the other parts will come in the next couple of days, cpu arrives next week i believe, specs:
Antec P-160WF
OCZ 520w
Athlon 3400+
mobo(above)
1g corsair
160 Samsung S-ATA HD
I've been going over the mobo manual and i'm confused. I'm not familiar with raid and never had a sata drive, do they go hand and hand? Meaning do i have to set up a raid to use the s-ata drive or do i just plug the sata drive into the mobo and everything will work, loading up windows xp and all? I don't want to use raid, but do i have to? i'm trying to make this build as simple as possible since it's my first time, i know this is probably a dumb question, i'm just new at this.....don't be surprised to see more dumb questions in the coming weeks! thanks.

Quote
Originally posted by onebyte
>>Meaning do i have to set up a raid to use the s-ata drive or do i just plug the sata drive into the mobo and everything will work, loading up windows xp and all?
In a word, no.
I've just fired up my first homebuilt last night. Joy! It's all went perfect on the first power-up. I'm in a similar position, and have a single SATA Hitachi Deskstar. Although I've not yet installed an OS, my understanding is that the Serial ATA interface will work just fine with a single drive. No multiple drive RAID is needed.
My understanding is that all you have to be sure to do is load the SATA drivers from the included diskette, by pressing F6 on boot up. Otherwise the drive won't be properly recognized by the bios. I haven't done this yet, and its still showing as an IDE drive in some places of my bios setup.
If I had it to do over again I doubt I'd spend the extra dollars to go SATA with a single HD. It adds another level of complexity in transferring things to the new machine, and - according to certain authorities -- doesn't really add the extra performance over an ATA 133 that I first thought it would. At least with a 7200 RPM drive, it seems that the 150 or 133 limits never come into play, as the drive's mechanical limitations are less than both... so it's not a bottleneck.
I'm still trying to decide the best way to transfer my Win xp OS and other MS Office programs and updates. I'm not sure if I can clone my PATA HD to the SATA, or if I do what problems I'd have to fix. I've been thinking about transferring a Ghost or Acronis True Image to the new machine and then doing a WinXP repair install to see if I can get everything working with a minimum of time and effort. I'm not sure what to expect, or if it will even work at all. Or if it does, if it will leave me with problems (registry, drivers, etc).
We'll soon see.
Good luck with the build. The only real headache I had, other than getting the HSF uniit on the processor, was trying to connect the case front panel wires for the USB, Firewire, and Audio out and IN jacks, to the mainboard headers. The case wires were single pins and were labeled differently that the MB header block pin assignments. I finally gave up on the audio and firewire, and just used the USB connections after modifying them -- removing the two extra ground wires on pins 9 and 10.
Just take your time and follow the directions. Spend some time looking at the way the heatsink and fan connect onto the processor. Doing that without messing up the thermal compound can be tricky, and the directions from AMD could be clearer on that score.
Again, good luck,
thanks for the info, let me know how it goes...by the sound of what rainz said it seems you don't need to put in that 3.5" floppy disk that came with the mobo, is that right, rainz? Let me know how your OS installs onebyte, i'm curious to know if the SATA gave you trouble or not, wish you luck!

MSI Z77 MPower : Newbie RAID question

Hi,
I have a MSI Z77 MPower motherboard with a i5 3570k Processor. My OS and programs are installed on a 250 Gb SSD and I have a 600 Gb HDD for storage. I've had that last one for a while.
I'm looking to upgrade my storage and set up a NAS in my enclosure. I wanted to buy 2 identical 3 or 4 TB drives and hook them up with a RAID 1 configuration or buy 3 or more 1 to 4 TB drives and try a RAID 5 or 6 configuration. This would replace my 600 Gb HDD and be used for storage only (not OS).
Now I know my motherboard is supposed to be compatible with Raid 0 and 1 but I have a few questions :
1- Is it in fact compatible with raid 0 and 1 ?
2- Do I need a extra raid controller to go for a raid 5 or 6 configuration ?
3- Is the raid setup done in bios or in windows ?
4- Is there a guide on how to proceed I could look into ?
Thanks

1: yes!
2: yes for raid 6 and no for raid 5 as raid 6 you need a raid card for that as it takes more processing to accomplish that as its algorithm based! (for raid 5 or 6 you need 3 drives minimum in the array as one is used as redundancy)
3: to set up a raid array you may have to reinstall all your files/Programs as the operating mode changes as you have to make the drive mode RAID in integrated peripherals and then upon booting system you will be prompted to press CTRL+I to enter the intel RAID setup and you will be able to build the array there! (note to use the array you will need to make sure you have the intel raid drivers installed on your computers OS)
4: http://uk.msi.com/product/mb/Z77-MPOWER.html#/?div=Manual <--- thats the manual and it has a section devoted to setting up a raid array and stripe it accordingly!
notes:
raid 0 2xdrives twice as fast as RAID 1 and you would have all the space of 2 drives but but has no redundancy so if a drive fails you have had it all is lost!(needs equip numbers of drives)
raid 1 has full fail safe redundancy but will only be as fast as a single drive as it writes the same data to both! (needs equip numbers of drives)
raid 5 has fast operation and 1 drive fail safe but takes processing to generate the array may have a slight hit on your processor if using one as that will do the calculations(minimum 3 drives as one will be used as a safety)
raid 6 is similar to raid 5 but is slightly less effective in writes but is quicker on reads and retains a fail safe feature but requires more processing by a dedicated card to do it(3 drives minimum)

[newbie] overclocking i7 2600k / MSI z68a-gd80

Hi everyone,
I'm new here and I have no experience in overclocking. I've always build my own PC's but never touched overclocking because I always found all the options very confusing and was afraid of damaging something. But the time for change has come!
Goal
4,2 Ghz - 24/7 stable overclock (manual - don't want to use OC genie)
I don't want to do a hardcore overclock, just a small increase for gaming and more importantly videorendering.
System information
- i7 2600K @3.40Ghz
- MSI z68a-gd80
- 16GB ram @ 1600MHZ wit latency 9-9-9-24
- 1x 128GB SSD (OS)
- 2x 2TB raid 0 (storage)
- 2x GTX580 LE edition @ stock values
- Scythe Mugen Revision 3 cooler @100%
- 2 extra casefans @ 100%
- Windows 7 64-bit
Help
Main problem is that I have no clue what settings do change in the bios, also I don't really understand what they mean / do. I mean low vdroop what does that even mean?
What I know:
- Multipliers (is now at 34) - this is used for overclocking / increasing ghz.
- Baseclock (100Mhz) - this can also be used for overclocking but is little headroom - so rather leave this alone
- I have to do an Intel Burn Test do see if my system is stable
- I must use HWmonitor to make sure tempatures don't get to high (what are normal tempatures and what's max?)
My question:
What settings do I have to change / turn on or off to start overclocking. (e.g. I have no clue what the hell "low vdroop" means or does)
I hope I posted this in the right subforum and made everything clear and ofcourse I hope you guys can help / walk me through it.
Huge thanks in advance!

Hi guys,
I'm back with some more results. I've downclocked my DDR3 back to stock values again and tested X43. It worked. I moved on. Now I'm at X45. My results are as followed:
CPU X45
- ITB test "standard" 1 (2nd run of 10 failed, gave me instability error)
- ITB test "standard" 2 (10 out of 10)
- ITB test "standard" 3 (10 out of 10)
- ITB test "standard" 4 (10 out of 10)
Temps
According to RealTemp 3.0 my max degrees with test was for each core: #0 = 74 #1 = 84 #2 = 84 #3 = 81 (These temps were from the ITB test "standard" 4).
Test did it in 154 seconds.
Voltage
According to CPU-Z max voltage (auto CPU V) = 1.384
Rendertest
Rendering video in Vegas (clip 5 minutes @1080p) rendered by both GPU and CPU. Load CPU was about 65%. Max temp measured in low 70's.
Biossettings
- Adjust CPU Ration in OS = Disabled
- Internal PLL Overvoltage = Enabled
- EIST = Enabled
- Intel Turbo Boost = Enabled
- DRAM Frequency = DDR-1333MHz (for now )
- XMP = Disabled
- DRAM Timing Mode = Auto
- Spread Spectrum = Disabled
- VDroop Control = Low VDroop
- CPU Core Voltage = Auto
- CPU I/O Voltage = Auto
- DRAM Voltage = Auto
- System Agen Voltage (SA) = Auto
- CPU PLL Voltage = 1.8V
Under CPU features:
- Hyper-threading = Enabled
- Active Processor Cores = All
- Limit CPUID Maximum = Disabled
- Execute Disable Bit = Enabled
- Intel Virtualization Tech = Enabled
- Power Technology = Custom
- C1E Support = Enabled
- Overspeed Protection = Disabled
- Intel C-State = Enabled
- Package C State Limit = Auto
- Long duration power limit (w) = 200
- Long duration maintained (ms) = 1000
- Short duration power limit (w) = 250
- Primary plane turbo power limit (w) = 0
- Secondary plane turbo power limit (w) = 0
- Cores (all 4) = 45
Advice?
So the X45 I'm happy with. I don't feel the need to overclock it further. Only two questions left:
1) How should I now overclock my memory? (put it on @1600MHz and with voltage of 1.579 and then test it? ***I can't choose 1.575 )
2) Are there any settings I have to change in my bios overall for stability or something else?
Thanks in advance for all the help. Almost there!

The Newbie, the dragon, and MSI...

As the title mentions (vaguely) I'm new to PC building, and I have a Soyo KT333 Dragon Ultra. I'm looking for a good video card and MSI's TI4400 caught my eye. The price range is right (190 w/shipping at Newegg) and the reviews I read looked pretty solid.
Here's my problem. When I got my mobo I didn't realize that while Soyo makes pretty decent boards, they are REALLY picky with the components you place in them. My question is, does anyone have any information pertaining to MSI cards paired with Soyo mobo's?
Actually I have 2 questions now that I'm thinkin of it. I have read a few of the posts HERE and found that there are those that have had heat and/or chipset problems (not really sure which) with the MSI GF4 TI4400. Is this simply a small percentage of ppl who own this card being that this is a forum, or are the majority of these cards proven faulty?
As previously stated I'm ENTIRELY new to this field and I'd hate to be putting my pretty little box together then have to RMA a faulty video card. Being that this is my first experiance I'm looking for the fewest possible complications (though I'll hit several I'm sure). ANY help would be great! Thanx!

For the price of the card, I think I have every right to expect that.
DeathStalker wrote:
Humm.... If you do not like the card, do by all means go get another one. If you have an issue with drivers, go get the new nVidia Drivers. Either the 40.41 or the 40.52. They are both an excellent set of drivers.
There are plenty of reviews on the MSI GF4Ti4600. You might want to read them.
Perhaps, it wasn't clear in my earlier posting, I already own the MSI GF4 4600.
At the time of my earlier posting, I had already addressed all issues I had with the card and it is running quite well now. Like I stated in my earlier posting, the card is excellent performer, once you find the right drivers and software for it.
The reason I don't recommend the MSI to my customers and friends is because of their (MSI) drivers and video software.
Perhaps you are used to dealing with PC techs, PC gamers and PC aficionados who live to tweak their systems performance to the absolute max. Most of my customers do not share that same level of commitment. To them, the card and ALL its features should work well right out of the box. My customers are not just gamers who don't care if all the features on their cards work or not. Many want high end cards for video recording and digital photography work, training and business presentation purposes etc. They want to spend their time doing work, not tweaking their systems
You get this great presentation when you buy the card, features, connectors and lots of bundled software. Then they shoot themselves in both feet by providing shotty drivers and video software.
If MSI would pay as much attention to developing their drivers and video software as they do to the manufacture of the cards themselves, then I would recommend the MSI as the best high end video and TV cards on the market.
Come on MSI, you have well made products. Now it is time to follow-up with WELL written drivers and software.

MSI P67A-C45 (B3) Newb needs Help with connections..

Hi all..
First time posting here, but have been in the shadows for quite a while..
Anyway, i decided to finally take the plunge, and build my own PC, and now i'm beginning to hit a few bumps.
I have a couple of questions that i would like some help with, if possible to reassure myself i may be in the right direction..
I bought THIS PSU and was hoping someone could tell me where the Blue connectors (one labelled CP and one labelled U1) Connect to?
Is it into JPWR2? And does it/do they only connect in the correct way? (Do i remove the plastic cap and attach both?
and i bought THIS VIDEO/GRAPHICS CARD and i'm guessing the RED "PCI express" and "SLI ready" connect to that somehow (Haven't opened box yet for card)
Again, wondering is there a certain way for them to connect.
Also, from my chassis, the "AC '97" and "HDA" connectors go to JAUD (I guess), does it matter which one? (I currently have "HDA" connected)
I have i5 2500k already on board. (If that makes a difference).

Quote from: Ben_Cartwright on 26-May-11, 22:05:35
Do the Audio plugs go into JAUD? and does it matter which one?
Yep, connect the front panel audio to the JAUD. If you need the pin layout, it says in the manual. I would say the HDA connector is the one to connect.
Quote from: Ben_Cartwright on 26-May-11, 22:05:35
Any recommendations for testing it all, before i plug it in, and press the power?
Should i (Can i) test individual parts first?
Thanks again.
Check all power connections, seating of the RAM and add-on cards, check the HSF is plugged into the fan header, and obvious things like that.
As for testing, enter the BIOS and make sure the CPU isn't running too hot. Set up the RAM with the required timings and voltage, and test with >>Memtest86<< for several hours. No point starting the Windows installation if say your RAM has errors, since it will corrupt files during the install, if it installs at all.

MSI K8N Diamond Plus - Guide to my first week

OK, not a newb here, but been around the block quite a bit. MSI K8N Diamond Plus is my 5th A64 mobo (ECS K8M800, my daily undestroyed computer, K8T800, my 12 year olds gamer, Asus A8V Deluxe, first 939 system, Abit AN8 SLI, first SLI gamer, and now the MSI Diamond Plus). Had the KDP (K8N Diamond Plus) for more than a week now, and here's what I've learned.
This is state of the art again, and we have no one to blame but ourselves for the pain this causes us when we upgrade like lunatics
And as usual, the drivers and BIOS are al Dente (i.e. not cooked enought yet, a little raw)
MSI is also oddly silent on this system, which is wierd, as they are a large company, and specifically cater to enthusiasts. But their BIOS guys are MIA. Hopefully this will not be forever. Asus, ABIT, DFI, Epox are always fast with fixes
The board is a nice design, with everything basically accessible, as much as any other board. Lots of purposeful components, not too many dumb frills. No tooty fruity colors, but rather practical parts.
The new 2 piece NForce chipset is fine, and the MSI guys gave us a decent, but funky cooler. It gets a little warm to the touch when you pound on it with Prime95, or Quake4, but other than that it is fine
The manual has a zillion typos, and fortunately for us in this forum, we have shared what we've learned. The translation from Chinese to English leaves quite a bit to be desired, and hopefully, MSI will learn from Asus and Abit and get a better translation service. In 2006 this is just plain stupid, especially with a $225 board
As usual, the mobo supplied tweaker utilities are just aweful. They look like a hallucination from a Hunter S Thompson book, and they work about as well. Core center is a sad state of affairs, and the rest of them just burrow their way into your otherwise stable system and cause it to have poor behavior. And therefore as usual, the BIOS is the best way, if slowest, to tweak this bundle of parts
Which brings us to the BIOS. IMHO, the worst one I've seen on a high end board. ZERO explanation for half the settings (this is not strange in and of itself, BIOS is still a black art, but in a tweakers board, we should have some basic explanation )
There seem to be adequate settings in the BIOS for all sorts of doodads and gizmos, but who the heck knows what half of them are. Roger points out rightfully, that we now need to "Tune" across all these different intermediary bus structures and test. But with the lack of info from either NVidia, MSI or anyone else for that matter, its kinda hard to know where to start.
The board is clearly sensitive, which is a result of it being high strung. This is no different than any "first out" product I've ever bought. Most take 2 or 3 turns of the crank to get totally stable and forgiving. This one hated my OCZ platinum EL 2Gb kit memory, and it brought out the worst in one of the SLI based EVGA 7800 GT COs. These components worked in the Abit AN8 SLI (although not always great), but the MSI has ZERO tolerance for even the slightest pertubation from the memory. It was BSOD city until I removed both of these components by process of elimination that took probably 100 hours
Once I removed the bad components, and replaced the memory with Geil Ultra X 2x512 2-2-2-5, it worked great, ran Prime95 for 10 hours with no errors, and seems reasonably stable. I've RMA-d the bad 7800GT CO back to EVGA, and will report back on how SLI behaves when I get the new one (cross shipped of course, I haveno patience )
I also now need to replace the 2Gb RAM kit with something that the board will tolerate. I may RMA the 2Gb kit back to OCZ and try another one, but I dunno. I love OCZ but I have a bad feeling about this, even though they have great!!! support. I may try OCZ PC4000 or the RAM that Roger successfully used.
I did upgrade to the 1.16 BIOS, and found that some new things were added, as well as voltage control in Cell was a little better, but registration of changes in voltage is still a disaster. I adjusted a bunch of times, it didn't register, and I ended up smoking a new A64 3700+ Diego with 1.95 volts, even though the BIOS claimed it was 1.53. I had to rebot to see what was going on. The Thermalright XP-90 kept the proc from melting down through the earth
Finally, I hope this board attracts more people, and therefore more tweakers that can figure out all these gadgets and settings. Everyone flocked to the Asus X16 SLI product, which is too bad, as this one needs lots o' folks to hack it up for us to figure out what is going on.
The on board Creative audio sounds lousy to my ears, and I will replace it with an Audigy 2ZS gamer that I had in the Abit. It just sounds better, but hopefully the drivers will not trash my newly stable system. Creative scares me, they scare me alot.
I've been able to get the CPU up to 2.4Ghz, with a .5 volt bump to the CPU and 2.9 volts into the Geil memory. So far, so stable, no smoke coming out yet
I hope this info is somewhat valuable to someone on this board. I will post details of all changes that I make, as others are doing, so we can at least take care of ourselves with this thing.

Quote from: nanohead on 15-February-06, 01:17:10
Which brings us to the BIOS. IMHO, the worst one I've seen on a high end board. ZERO explanation for half the settings (this is not strange in and of itself, BIOS is still a black art, but in a tweakers board, we should have some basic explanation )
There seem to be adequate settings in the BIOS for all sorts of doodads and gizmos, but who the heck knows what half of them are. Roger points out rightfully, that we now need to "Tune" across all these different intermediary bus structures and test. But with the lack of info from either NVidia, MSI or anyone else for that matter, its kinda hard to know where to start.
first of all, i do think that all the settings in the BIOS have an explanation in the manual, even if it's a basic one. if that explanation doesn't tell you everything in detail, is because if you do need a detailed explanation of the settings, you probably shouldn't be messing around with those settings.
Quote from: nanohead on 15-February-06, 01:17:10
I did upgrade to the 1.16 BIOS, and found that some new things were added, as well as voltage control in Cell was a little better, but registration of changes in voltage is still a disaster. I adjusted a bunch of times, it didn't register, and I ended up smoking a new A64 3700+ Diego with 1.95 volts, even though the BIOS claimed it was 1.53. I had to rebot to see what was going on. The Thermalright XP-90 kept the proc from melting down through the earth.
wanna tell me how did you get 1.95V on that mobo?
Quote from: nanohead on 15-February-06, 01:17:10
I've been able to get the CPU up to 2.4Ghz, with a .5 volt bump to the CPU and 2.9 volts into the Geil memory. So far, so stable, no smoke coming out yet
a 0.5V bump? again, you must be joking. maybe 0.05V.

Msi newbie

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