MSI NX8500GT 256MB...need just a bit more power...

I recently purchased Rome Total War to kill some time while my XBox 360 is being repaired. The game runs flawlessly on the highest settings with one tiny exception - when I increase game speed to 3x on the tactical map, the game becomes nearly unplayable. Even mouse and keyboard become slightly unresponsive (making it very hard to go back to normal speed).
I have the NX8500GT-TD256E (http://global.msi.com.tw/index.php?func=proddesc&prod_no=1198#) with core overclocked to 576Mhz, DDR2 at 512Mhz. I have found that overclocking much higher produces terrible instability.
Should I purchase another of these cards and go SLI? Or would I be better off spending the $40 or so more and getting an 8600?

Quote from: jason str on 01-April-08, 23:30:14
Good choice.
Better than 2 8600s in sli by far.
Make sure your power supply has a pcie connector to power the card first though. Usually labeld but not always its a 6 pin plug.
Yeah, it does.

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Just a bit more control over Swatches panel...

"Select All Unused" - great command, "Add Unnamed Colors" - sometimes also useful, but shouldn't you expect "Hide Unnamed Colors" too?
And couple of things I really miss here:
"Find Duplicates" and "Sort by...". I always try "to keep things clean and simple" as much as possible, unfortunately, sometimes I get files from other designers with a real mess there... and in a Swatches panel too. Hundreds of colors, dozens of duplicates, some of them obvious, some - not. Everything scattered here and there, and... no way to get things a bit more organized.
Well, no more words: just look at the Links panel and its options! Things are much better here...

I agree. I like Illustrator's option of being able to sort my swatches myself with color groups. I too have the annoyance of having everyone else's swatches mixed in with mine when I syncronize my book documents. I just have to be sure to name all my colors. Having the swatches panel be more like Illustrator would be a big help in keeping things "clean and simple".

Internal HD: Need just a bit of insight and/or advice

I have searched through about 25 pages of discussion topic search results to find an answer here but am unable to find anything regarding this specific question:
My PowerBook G4 (1 GHz) 15-inch is now just over 3 years old. I periodically run Disk Utility in order to verify the S.M.A.R.T. status and the integrity of the original internal HD. Backups are done routinely as well. The hardware on this machine has never given me any trouble. The skinny on the HD from System Profiler is as follows:
Hitachi IC25N080ATMR04-0:
Capacity: 74.53 GB
Model: Hitachi IC25N080ATMR04-0
Revision: MO4AAD0A
Serial Number: MRG426K4GKY85H
Removable Media: No
Detachable Drive: No
BSD Name: disk0
Protocol: ATA
Unit Number: 0
Socket Type: Internal
OS9 Drivers: No
S.M.A.R.T. status: Verified
Volumes:
Snap:
Capacity: 74.41 GB
Available: 17.47 GB
Writable: Yes
File System: Journaled HFS+
BSD Name: disk0s3
Mount Point: /
Now when I ran Disk Utility last weekend and verified the disk, I noted the following:
Verifying volume “Snap”
Checking HFS Plus volume.
Checking Extents Overflow file.
Checking Catalog file.
Illegal name
Checking multi-linked files.
Checking Catalog hierarchy.
Checking Extended Attributes file.
Checking volume bitmap.
Volume Bit Map needs minor repair
Checking volume information.
Invalid volume free block count
Invalid volume free block count
,2)
4248910
4248909
Volume Header needs minor repair
The volume Snap needs to be repaired.
Error: The underlying task reported failure on exit
Disk Utility stopped verifying “Snap” because the following error was encountered:
The underlying task reported failure on exit
1 HFS volume checked
Volume needs repair
This is the first time I have ever seen this message. I booted up from the Startup CD, ran Disk Utility, and followed through on the repair of the volume. Everything went fine and it reported that the disk was successfully repaired.
The advice that I am seeking is this: Is this really a "minor" repair in the volume header structure or is it a possible clue that the hard drive itself has begun a slide towards its death in the physical sense?
I am curious to know how long these drives are expected to last, in ideal conditions, based on actual user experiences.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Regards!
Garret Wilkerson

Garrett:
If you do not have an up-to-date backup and you have valuable data you don't want to lose, be sure that you take steps to make a backup now. (Post back if you need help).
Disk Utility reports "Underlying task reported failure" when repairing a volume is a serious directory error. It is recoverable, although not always. You will note that the article linked recommends backing up. This is important.
The article also recommends the use of a third party utility, as Disk Utility is not able to repair this kind of directory error. You will need to have either Disk Warrior or Tech Tool Pro to have any chance of repairing the disk.
Your other option is to backup your HDD then completely reformat your drive (post back for step-by-step directions) then re-install the OS and recover your data from the backup.
Please do post back with further questions or comments.
Good luck.
cornelius

Same problem just a bit more confusing..

Hi!
I installed everything from scratch again but the command prompt does not recognize commands like javac and appletviewer. However, MY applets do work with the browser.
This is confusing and i have no idea what to do. Any tips?
Thanks!

You need to set the PATH environment variable. The methods are different for each version (98, ME, XP, etc) of Windows. This page has detailed instructions for each.
http://ccism.pc.athabascau.ca/html/vhd/javapath.xml

LabVIEW as ActiveX Client of Word 97 -- need just a little more info!

Am using the word.llb with LV as a client of Word 97. I've browsed the bookstores but can't find any answers. I'm looking to modify the Word 97 program by saving the written document (as .txt not .doc) and closing out Word. Where do I go to find the correct values for setting parameters like NoPrompt in the Save Invoke Node under Documents? As you can see, am very novice level with ActiveX.

Can't answer straight out but can give guidence.
The ActiveX stuff is genearally aranged the same way as the drop-down menus. It you can find in the drop-downs, a similar approach can be used to do it via activeX.
Another clue.
Install help for VBA. It will show you how to do things in VB and the same aproach used in their examples can be used in LV.
Ben
Ben Rayner
I am currently active on.. MainStream Preppers
Rayner's Ridge is under construction

VOLUME I need a bit more

Hi
Just purchased some new in ear phones for my iPod Touch and they need just a bit more volume on some music.
I assume the Touch cannot drive my new ones as well the old ones.
I wish there was a way to make your own EQ rather than select from the list, both options would be good, pick one or make one.....
I suppose they are keeping it down to stop ear damage, but some out here maybe a bit harder of hearing than others and need a bit more...............

Hi
This maybe the answer I was looking for.
Listning the the songs in iTunes, if they seem quiet then.........
Right clicking the song>get info>options>volume adjustment...
I assume the gain in volume is then saved into the track so will stay that way when copied over to the Touch.
Message was edited by: Washac
Message was edited by: Washac

HT4208 I just need a little bit of help. I visited the american ap store looking for the new scrabble game which is not available in the australian ap store. Can't get it anyway as I don't have an account there. I am trying to get back to the australian a

I just need a little bit of help. I visited the american ap store, using my i phone, to check out something. I dont have an account with them so I couldn't get what I wanted anyway.Now, I need to get back to the australian store and I don't know how to do that. Please help!

Go to app store- scroll down to bottom- click on apple id- change country

Can i download the free trial twice? i need a bit more time to see if it will work for my needs

can i download the final cut pro x free trial twice? i need a bit more time to see if it will work for my needs
also if my free trial has expired.. will the media in that free trial automatically be imported into final cut pro x if I buy it?

No.
A trial is a trial.
And 30d is a long period for 'testing'...
Content is completely independent from the app.
When you purchase a license, you can instantly work with your previously Events&Project.

I just order 8 calendars from iPhoto and they came to me fine. Now I need to order two more but when I go thru the process I get a message saying:unable to assemble calendar. There is a probleme with the photo with the file name"(Null)" more........ .

Would someone be able to explain to me the following issue with Iphoto?
I ordered 8 same calendars for my soccer team and received them fine. Although a couple of pictures on it are a little off (out of focus). I need to order two more of the same calendars but when I go thru the process ireceive an error message saying:
"Unable to to assemble calendar" There is a problem with the photo with the file name "(Null)" The full resolution version of this photo either cannot be located or is corrupt. Please replace this photo or delete it from your calendar.
How can I fine this "corrupt" photo? How did it go thru with the first batch of calendars but won't go thru now?
Thank you for your help.

Apply the two fixes below in order as needed:
Fix #1
Launch iPhoto with the Command+Option keys held down and rebuild the library.
Since only one option can be run at a time start
with Option #4 and then #1 as needed.
Fix #2
Using iPhoto Library Manager to Rebuild Your iPhoto Library
1 - download iPhoto Library Manager and launch.
2 - click on the Add Library button, navigate to your Home/Pictures folder and select your iPhoto Library folder.
3 - Now that the library is listed in the left hand pane of iPLM, click on your library and go to the File ➙ Rebuild Library menu option.
4 - In the next window name the new library and select the location you want it to be placed.
5 - Click on the Create button.
Note: This creates a new library based on the LIbraryData.xml file in the library and will recover Events, Albums, keywords, titles and comments. However, books, calendars, cards and slideshows will be lost. The original library will be left untouched for further attempts at fixing the problem or in case the rebuilt library is not satisfactory.
OT

HT4865 So who believes Apple should be a bit more cautionary about the sharing of iMessages and other content when several members of a family share the same iCloud account and unknowing can audit each other's iMessages, Contacts, and god only knows what

I think Apple should be a bit more cautionary about iCloud and privacy. My family shares the same iCloud account as we all enjoy the music we collectively purchase on iTunes; we paid Apple for this feature with some kind of grouped account. We didn't know, however that this joins our devices so that iMessages, contacts, pictures and just about everything else is shared too. The unprivate default seems to be to share everything between all devices vs. to allow access by exception or by choice (or by password?). Sure, when my kids get all my texts I can go figure out why and fix it but that is in my mind the antithesis of privacy and could be quite embarrassing for any family. I guess it is good for stalking the kids or parents though if they don't know about the partyline approach to privacy. Maybe a tech solution would be to have the iPhone show somehow the extent of its audience to its user.

No argument from me about the vagaries of using and sharing Apple IDs. This can lead to unintended consequences, especially in a family situation.
If you're sharing the same ID for FaceTime, you might want to go to Settings>FaceTime, tap the ID, sign out, then sign in with separate IDs there too. Otherwise, you'll end up getting each other's FaceTime calls.
Also, if you need to migrate everyone's devices to separate iCloud accounts to keep your synced data separated, you can do this by saving any photo stream photos you wish to keep to your camera roll (unless already there) by opening your my photo stream album, tapping Select, tapping the photos, tap the share icon (box with upward facing arrow), then tapping Save to Camera Roll. If you are syncing notes with iCloud, you'll need to open each of your notes and email them to yourself so you can later copy and paste the text into new notes created in your new account. Then go to Settings>iCloud, tap Delete Account (which only deletes it from this device, not from iCloud), choose Keep on My iDevice and provide the password to turn off Find My iPhone. Then sign back in with a different Apple ID to create your new account and choose Merge to upload your data. Once everyone's devices are on separate accounts, you can go to icloud.com and delete each other's data from your accounts.

Why does Lion need to be rebooted more than Snow Leopard?

After upgrading to Lion I have noticed that I need to reboot Lion more often than Snow Leopard. Is this just me or is this something others have seen?

I think this is just you. Nevertheless I would install the 10.7.1 update if you have not yet done so. This will improve the stability of Lion somewhat. But before you do that I would reinstall Lion. You may find this will improve things quite a bit especially if you upgraded from Snow Leopard. This will not erase the drive so you won't lose any of your files.
Reinstalling Lion
Boot to the Recovery HD: Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alterhatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions: Upon startup select Disk Utility from the main menu. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions as follows.
When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the main menu.
Reinstall Lion: Select Reinstall Lion and click on the Continue button.
Note: You can also re-download the Lion installer by opening the App Store application. Hold down the OPTION key and click on the Purchases icon in the toolbar. You should now see an active Install button to the right of your Lion purchase entry. There are situations in which this will not work. For example, if you are already booted into the Lion you originally purchased with your Apple ID or if an instance of the Lion installer is located anywhere on your computer.

MSI Z77A-G65 - Need help with Overclocking

Hi all, I will list hardware first:
Motherboard: MSI Z77A-G65
Bios: Version 10.8
Graphics: 2x GIGABYTE GV-N670OC-2GD GeForce GTX 670 Windforce OC 2048MB in SLI
Power Supply: Seasonic SS-1250XM X-Series
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K Quad-Core Processor 3.5 GHz 8 MB Cache LGA 1155
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32GB (4x8GB) DDR3 1600 MHz (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory
Optical: 2x Lite-On Super AllWrite 24X SATA DVD+/-RW Dual Layer Drive
HDD: 3x Seagate Barracuda 2 TB HDD SATA 6 Gb/s NCQ 64MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive
HDD: 1x Seagate Desktop HDD 4 TB SATA 6Gb/s NCQ 64MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive
Sound: Creative Sound Blaster ZX SBX PCIE Gaming Sound Card with Audio Control Module
SSD: 1x Plextor 512 GB SATA III Solid State Drive PX-512M5P
Cooling: Cooler Master Seidon 240M Liquid CPU Water Cooling System with Copper Heatsink and 240mm Radiator - 2 Fans
Operating System: Windows 8 Pro x64
Case: Cooler Master Cosmos II - Ultra Full Tower Computer Case with Metal Body and Hinged Side Panels
Alright, now you see what I have. That is just about everything excluding things like my wireless mouse and keyboard.
So, I have been perfecting this build for awhile now, but I'm not the most experienced at overclocking. I've used about 5-6 motherboards during about a year trying to get my 3770k to overclock. Yes, I wasted quite a bit of money. I recently RMA'd my CPU because I thought it was defective since I failed to overclock. Now, I have a brand new one. Then, I switched my 2133 G.Skill Sniper memory for more basic Corsair memory. I thought possibly it could have been my memory that was causing issues since it was about the only non-new part left up until now. Now, this build is has all completely new parts. I don't think anything is defective. Lastly, my OS has recently been installed. About 2 days ago. All drivers /windows updates are up to date.
Alright, I gave my opinion on my hardware / OS and explained that. So, now I will try to explain my overclocking attempts. I first tried to overclock using the basic OC Genie II settings untouched. However, that didn't work out for me. I did get BSODs eventually or programs that crashed. Sometimes, games have crashed. I'm not doing anything overly important on this computer. I have a lot of other non-overclocked computers for various things like work ect. So, I am free to be able to play with this computer and try to get it OC'd properly. So, don't worry about that. I've read about 10-20 guides on overclocking and such, and for some reason I can't get things to be stable to the point that programs don't crash or fail. It seems with the Z77A-G65, there's no offset voltage tweaking option. If there is, I can't find it. I've read a lot that if you disable all power saving and use a fixed voltage that it can be more stable than using an offset voltage. Higher temps and more power usage I know.
So far, I've tried both, and neither have really worked for me. If I put vdroop offset control to 100% my temperatures increase but it can handle it. So, I tried setting the CPU to be fixed at 1.3 while at 4.5ghz. That was still not stable. Prime was ok, but some games and programs crashed. So, it wasn't stable for real world usage. Most of the time actually prime will be ok unless I try to put it at 4.8ghz with mostly default settings. So, after I tried 4.5ghz and 1.3 fixed voltage with no power saving options on, I tried bringing the voltage up to 1.350 which increased the temperature under load to about 85C. This wasn't stable either, so I went up a bit higher, well alot in overclocking standards. I went up to 1.4 just to see the temperatures and it got up to about 85C a occasionally higher. This was not stable either. So I tried turning off all C states and other power saving options and setting the vdroop offset control to 100% while also setting the voltage to auto. This wasn't stable. Usually when I set the voltage to auto , it will crash at anything above 4.7ghz and not boot. Anything below that it will boot, and even be capable of running prime or intel burn test, but it won't remain completely stable with all applications. Even basic programs like Firefox crashes sometimes. I do have one program that is pretty nice for benchmarking in the real world, and that's Amazon's cloud drive uploader. I ran it for a bit and it will eventually crash if I'm overclocking. I have tried some games like Diablo 3, Borderlands 2, ect and they have crashed as well on a clean windows 8 install.
I've also tried some of the turbo templates that only OC during turbo boost but idle at normal speeds/ 1.6ghz. This wasn't stable either. So, I'm at a loss, I've tried Turbo overclocking, Fixed voltage overclocking, offset voltage overclocking, power saving options on , and power saving options off. No luck. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

First off, Ivy CPU's under conventional cooling solutions are terrible OC'ers. 85C is too hot for everyday use under stress. Mid 70C's or better still, less is recommended. All significant power saving features are lost once the CPU V. is taken out of Auto. VDroop at 100% supplies the most voltage and decreases it as the percentage is lowered. Turbo OC is often the best over a CPU Ratio OC. From what I can read, the CPU you have is average and should run stable at 44X or maybe 45X on Auto CPU V., all power saving features intact.
32GB of RAM is great for rendering, graphics and audio/video creation, but if the goal is a gaming machine, 8GB to 16GB is more than enough.
Added: Recommended settings; SA 0.965-0.970v's, PLL 1.82-1.84v's, I/O 1.07v's.

Why does H.264 export with a bit more orange color than anything else?

this is really annoying, I export some footage that was AVCHD footage, as an mpeg 2 file and it looks great like it should, and then I export to H.264 to upload to the web and there is a bit more of an orange colored tint to it, its mostly noticeable when you see red in the image because it looks more orange than its supposed to, and I didn't put any color correcting effects on at all!
Please help me figure this out and fix it!

yikes....good question.
hard to answer really...except to cut a long story short...
In this case your end product is youtube. think of that as your "printer" connected to your computer.
When you output to your printer, if it looks too "orange" or whatever, you can calibrate your monitor to more exactly "match" what the printer is printing..
To do THAT you hold a print up to your monitor and match the colors of the image you printed on your monitor....most people use color swatches and grayscales and so on....to get a wide range of the color values , gamma, etc.
soooo, you make your monitor look like the print....and NOW you can use your color adjustments in the program being used ( editor, photoshop, etc ) and really see more accurately what you will get when you make a print.
In THIS case it's not a print from your printer, but a picture from YouTube.....
Soooo, what you want to do is look at the YouTube video product ( on the web ) and adjust your monitor in the PROGRAM ( cs5) to match what the product is....the YouTube video....
Once you have the same orange color you see in YouTube product as you see in CS5 project monitor, you can NOW adjust your colors to the way you want them to match...
It's really the same sort of calibration that happens with all color related stuff and is NOT a problem with cs5 or YouTube...it's just a matter of matching the product (output and viewing ) to the creator of that image color etc...so that future products will be what you expect.
and that's the "short" answer...hehe...but it works
sooo, unfortunately you probably don't have all the equipment and tools to make that happen easily... ( color spaces , LUT , icc profiles , whatever....) and you will have to export, upload, look, adjust as needed .... that's the fastest for what you are using probably.
Good luck

Wish Safari was a bit more like Firefox...

I mean when I need to work on bookmarks, can't it open the 'show all bookmarks' window in a page I'm not looking at on the web? Ok, I can do that by holding command down but honest, would it be so hard to have it open up into a new page or tab automatically?
And what about the possibility of breaking the bookmarks flyout into sections like I can do with Firefox...I'm talking about just the ability to put in some dotted lines between bookmark folders that appear in the book marks menu and bar...is there a way to do that that I'm not aware of? This way I can say divide folders with bookmarks for music related links into a section, art related links into another...just a visual divider so the bookmarks menu isn't one long gigantic list of folders...
okokok, maybe i'm asking for too much...forgive this wild charade, i'll try not to let it happen again...
M

Oh, one other thing...I also wish Safari was more like Firefox in how it handles color...I rarely use Safari these days cause I'm using a wide gamut monitor and having these neon greens and reds all over is quite hard on the eyes...
I've read about how Safari is color managed, I just don't think it works as well as the Firefox has color managed its browser...
I'd love to go back to using Safari a bit more...maybe Mr. Jobs can put a word in for me?...

MSI FX5900-TD or MSI FX5700 Ultra Need Help

What card is the better one to buy and why?
My Mainboard MSI K7N2 Delta-ILSR(601-6570-030)
2X 512mb DDR 3200 Crucial memory
AMD 2800+ 333 mhz FSB Boxed AXDA2800DKV4D Y822396250958 AQXEA 0318MPMW
1999 AMD Barton (or though it says nothing on the box about being a Barton and having 512kb L2 Cache) is there any way to tell what it is? If it is can the bus be overclocked to 200 FSB ok?
CPU Fan Cooler Master Aero 7 Lite (CP5-8J71F) is this fan ok or would I be best using the one that came with the CPU?
Graphics Card ???
Almost built.
The MSI FX5900-TD 128mb
Product Specifications
Graphics Core: 256-bit
Memory Interface: 256-bit
Memory Bandwidth: 27.2GB/sec.
Fill Rate: 3.6 billion texels/sec.
Vertices per Second: 338 million
Memory Data Rate: 850MHz
Pixels per Clock (peak): 8
Textures per Pixel: 16
RAMDACs: 400MHz
or
The MSI FX5700 Ultra
Product Specifications
256-bit
Memory Interface: 128-bit
Memory Bandwidth: 14.4GB/sec.
Fill Rate: 1.9 billion pixels/sec.
Vertices/sec. 356 million
Memory Data Rate: 900 MHz
Pixels per Clock (peak): 4
Textures per Pixel: 16
RAMDACs 400 MHz
Thanks for any help!

The 256 MB version will allow you to load heavier 3D scenes in its memory with great performance, but the 128 MB version will have more bandwidth and it will generally be faster, although when the time come that a 128 MB video card will run out of memory, then the card will start to swap memory between its memory and AGP memory, thus it will be much slower that having a 256 MB version a bit slower.
Confused?
I´d go for the 256 MB version. although it has 2.8 Ns memory and you could reach just 714 MHz memory clock speed, but the other card will have less memory.
It´s just an opinion, but I would choose 256 MB version if I were you, and if I had the money

MSI NX8500GT 256MB...need just a *bit* more power...

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MSI NX8500GT 256MB...need just a bit more power...