MSI P67A-C43 (B3) USB not working but theres a twist! Help!

:lol_anim:I Have built a new rig with the MSI P67A-C43 (B3) Motherboard, 16GB DDR3 PC3-10600 1333MHz Memory (4GB x 4), Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz 6M LGA1155 Processor, 550 Watt 80 PLUS Bronze Power Supply,24x DVDRW, 3.5" Internal Card Reader with 2 USB ports, 500GB 7200RPM 3.5" SATA Hard Drive(which i plan on upgrading just didnt want to waste money on the shitty HD they had.....
So down to the nitty gritty . My computer is running Windows 7 64 Bit, i have downloaded all of the updates and all of the Chip-set drivers, Bios, etc... i ran a system registry tool to clean up any errors in my registry and i have ALL of my drivers up to date.
I have my USB mouse and keyboard that connect fine and are recognized by my computer, sometimes they stop working and start back up within seconds but windows does display any type of error or disconnection "this may have been fixed due to the registry cleaner i used i haven't had any hiccups yet" so i have my USB mouse and USB keyboard working fine and dandy now i think. got a new headset and the windows finds the USB Headset and it works Perfectly fine. BUT and this is where my whole frustration comes out. Whenever i connect my I-Pod Touch, I-Pod Nano, My Cell phone to copy files to from my SD Card, or my External My Passport drive Windows says "USB Device was not recognized" notification and in the Device manager it shows the one device with a yellow exclamation point and says "Unknown Device" I have tried to uninstall the USB hubs and reinstalled them perfectly restarted windows, still non of the devices work. i have tried making sure that windows tries not to turn off the device to save power, when i say i have tried almost everything i mean everything that is related with USB Device not Recognized. So i do not know what to do now, i have contacted the Manufacturer and they don't know squat about it or what could be causing it. the only thing i can think of is there is some hardware maybe that is not compatible i do hear some beeps when i start up i will have to come back and update how many beeps" i saw another post that it means the motherboard is trying to tell me something maybe this could be the issue. but i have tried every single usb port and non of them Recognize the device but when i plus in my mouse and keyboard in diff ports they still work so i am a bit confused. my last step is to return the computer to the manufacturer for a replacement or repair w/e i do not want to do this cause this should be working. my friend has almost the exact same MB and equipment and his works fine so i am getting a little frustrated with the issue Someone Pls Help me out. And yes i have tried turning off the computer, unplugging it and pressing the power button, and waiting like 1 Hour etc and still nothing. Drivers are Up-to-Date and Mother board bios and chip-set drivers are Up-to-Date as well. I hope someone knows or has an answer to help me out!

Yes the Bios is Up-to-Date and they are not plugged into the Blue USB 3.0 ports(x2). oh and forgot to mention already did a clean install again of Windows 7 64bit and still nothing. Im also wondering if the power supply is enough?? maybe?

Similar Messages

IPhone 5 sleep button not working but theres a tiny crack in the corner of the screen, about a quarter of an inch.

I started to notice that my sleep button started to not respond like normal. I would have to push it more and more times for my phone to turn off. Only the left part of the sleep button works. I have read a bunch of forums about this and people have been saying they got the phone exchanged no questions asked. I am wondering, since there is a tiny crack in the corner of the phone, will Apple turn down my phone and make me pay $49.99 since I have Apple Care. The sleep button started to not work before the corner of the screen got cracked. Bad luck I guess. What should I try to do ?

As I mentioned, someone else's personal experience may not be duplicated. It all boils down to what the particular Genius has to say at the date and time that you show up. The worse they can say is they will not replace the phone under warranty and you would be offered an OOW replacement. If you have Apple Care +, it would be a $50 deductible, where the OOW replacement cost for the iPhone 5 in the US is $229.

MSI P67A-C43 (B3) Not booting with Corsair TR3X6G1600C8D Dominator RAM

The mobo will boot but will not login it starts to hang in booting the OS, also when i try to update the mobo bios with a live CD (with old ram that was fine)
My first question, is Corsair TR3X6G1600C8D Dominator compatible with MSI P67a-C43 (B3)
and why isn't my bios being updated when i didnt update it ever since i bought it in 2011.

Quote
The mobo will boot but will not login it starts to hang in booting the OS, also when i try to update the mobo bios with a live CD (with old ram that was fine)
Update with what LIVE CD?? Did system boot to Windows with old ram and if so what was the old ram??
Quote
My first question, is Corsair TR3X6G1600C8D Dominator compatible with MSI P67a-C43 (B3)
That is a triple channel kit of three sticks made for X58/socket 1366 systems and not for a 1155 system. Three sticks could stress the mem controler too much and result in it not running the sticks at the timings/speed they are meant for. Try just two of those and see if that helps. If so try relaxing timings and/or change to ddr3-1333 for trying three.
Quote
and why isn't my bios being updated when i didnt update it ever since i bought it in 2011.
What? Are you asking about a missing update offered or what do you mean?

USB Drives works, but does not show up in "Safely Remove Hardware"

USB Drives works, but does not show up in "Safely Remove Hardware"
windows 8
USB Drives works, but does not show up in "Safely Remove Hardware"
Here are my symptom
- USB Flash Drives , USB External HDD works normally
- I can see them in "My Computer"
- I can open "Safely Remove Hardware" via Run Command, but there is no device in the list
- They show up as "Disk drives" in device manager
- When I right click their icons in "My Computer", there is no option to "Eject" them
- In "Disk Management", they show up as "Basic". Prior to this issue, they were "Removable"
After I tested, it seems that my Vista detects every USB storage device as a normal HDD.
I don't know why but I'd appreciate any help because I have to plug-in and remove those drives often, especially flash drives.
Thank you

Hello Mickey2003
Welcome to the HP Forums, I hope you enjoy your experience! To help you get the most out of the HP Forums I would like to direct your attention to the HP Forums Guide First Time Here? Learn How to Post and More.
I understand you are having issues in Windows Vista with your USB Storage devices not showing up in the Safely Remove Hardware list. I am providing you with a link to a Microsoft Hotfix for this very issue titled An external USB storage device may not appear in the Safely Remove Hardware list in the notification.... I would recommend you review the KB document and ensure you a familiar with the Hotfix information and run the hotfix to resolve the issue you are experiencing.
Please re-post if you require additional support. Thank you for posting on the HP Forums. Have a great day!
Please click the "Thumbs Up" on the bottom right of this post to say thank you if you appreciate the support I provide!
Also be sure to mark my post as “Accept as Solution" if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others who face the same challenge find the same solution.
Dunidar
I work on behalf of HP
Find out a bit more about me by checking out my profile!
"Customers don’t expect you to be perfect. They do expect you to fix things when they go wrong." ~ Donald Porter

H800-30ea,USB Drives works, but does not show up in "Safely Remove Hardware"

hi
USB Drives works, but does not show up in "Safely Remove Hardware"
Here are my symptom
- USB Flash Drives , USB External HDD works normally
- I can see them in "My Computer"
- I can open "Safely Remove Hardware" via Run Command, but there is no device in the list
- They show up as "Disk drives" in device manager
- When I right click their icons in "My Computer", there is no option to "Eject" them
- In "Disk Management", they show up as "Basic". Prior to this issue, they were "Removable"
After I tested, it seems that my Vista detects every USB storage device as a normal HDD.
I don't know why but I'd appreciate any help because I have to plug-in and remove those drives often, especially flash drives.
Thank you

Hello takpesar,
Welcome to the HP Forums, I hope you enjoy your experience! To help you get the most out of the HP Forums I would like to direct your attention to the HP Forums Guide First Time Here? Learn How to Post and More.
I understand you are having issues in Windows Vista with your USB Storage devices not showing up in the Safely Remove Hardware list. I am providing you with a link to a Microsoft Hotfix for this very issue titled An external USB storage device may not appear in the Safely Remove Hardware list in the notification.... I would recommend you review the KB document and ensure you a familiar with the Hotfix information and run the hotfix to resolve the issue you are experiencing.
Please re-post if you require additional support. Thank you for posting on the HP Forums. Have a great day!
Please click the "Thumbs Up" on the bottom right of this post to say thank you if you appreciate the support I provide!
Also be sure to mark my post as “Accept as Solution" if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others who face the same challenge find the same solution.
Dunidar
I work on behalf of HP
Find out a bit more about me by checking out my profile!
"Customers don’t expect you to be perfect. They do expect you to fix things when they go wrong." ~ Donald Porter

MSI P67A-C43/ Corsair HX620 or Corsair CX 500 Buzzing

Hello Everyone,
Been a member long time and recently returned to the MSI fold with this amazing little board. It over clocks amazingly well and is an excellent entry level p67 board. However I do have one issue with my setup which is listed below:
CPU: Intel 2500K
Board: MSI P67A-C43 flashed to the latest BIOS (as of May 25th)
Memory: G.Skill Sniper 1600Mhz 2x4 GB (1.25V)
GPU: HIS 6950-2GB
HDD: Seagate 1TB 7200.11 (SATA)
Optical: Samsung 223F
PSUs: Corsair HX 620 and CX 500
Now the problem using either of the two power supplies result in a low noise buzzing sound emitting from the power supply units. It does not matter which one, both exhibit similar behavior. This occurs EVEN if i remove the video card. This only happens when i turn the system on. This is NOT your video card buzzing noise which comes and goes with load on the video card; the noise persists even if i run the system without a video card (of course i can't see anything but i can hear the noise emitting from the Power supply)
Both these power supplies work without noise in other systems (based on Intel, Asus and older MSI boards).
Has anyone else experienced this? I know of video card associated PSU related noise, but this is definitely an issue between these two power units and the mother board.
THINGS I HAVE ALREADY TRIED (in combination and individually)
1. Disabling all power saving features
2. Disabling active phase control/ changing between two provided settings for APS
3. Disabling phase control LEDS
4. Running at stock, over-clocked and under-clocked
5. Disabling onboard peripherals (audio, usb ports, etc)
Have I missed anything that i should try.
Is this a sign of impending trouble (i.e. should i RMA this board) OR just a cause of annoyance and raging headaches
Thanks in advance to all readers/ posters!

Quote from: Bernhard on 26-May-11, 00:31:22
You are stating that both PSUs do not emit this noise when used on other systems. Were the PSUs plugged into the same wall outlet that you are using now when you tested them on the other PCs?
Just a possibility that the noise originates somewhere in the electrical supply circuit that you are using now.
Thank you for your reply.
Yes that is correct. And yes the outlet is the same as well. I have even done an experiment where i used the processor & memory from this (P67A-C43) in another board (P8P67, and vice versa) just to make sure the CPU and memory are not the culprits. No dice. The issue is definitely between the board and the power supply units.
As both PSUs have different OEMS (seasonic and CWT if i am not mistaken) I just want to be sure it is not a problem with a board that will cause it to fail later on.

MSI P67A-C43 (B3) & OCZ Vertex 3 VTX3-25SAT3 Issues

Specifications:
Quote
Mobo/Laptop: MSI P67A-C43 (B3)
BIOS: 1.B (2011-04-14)
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K
RAM: 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 CML8GX3M2A1600C9B
Vid: ASUS ENGTX560 TI DCII TOP/2DI/1GD5 GeForce GTX 560 Ti
PSU: HX750 (CMPSU-750HX)
HDD: OCZ Vertex 3 VTX3-25SAT3-120G v2.11
Chipset: Intel P67 (B3) RSD v10.6.0.1002
OS: Windows 7 Ultimate 64 Bit SP1
Let's start from the beginning: So I built my PC in July and ever since I've been having on and off BSODs with the Vertex 3 drive. Mostly they'll happen once a week. When I first built the machine my drive came with Firmware 2.06. I installed all the drivers from MSI's website as well as the latest Intel Rapid Storage Drivers. Eventually I flashed the SSD to 2.11 when it was released but still had similar issues. Hotplugging was enabled when I installed Windows 7 for the first time AND when I flashed to 2.11 from 2.06. Some members over on the OCZ boards stated this might have been the cause of the BSOD. Basically the PC froze, BSOD'd, restarted, and then the system couldn't detect the drive. I had to power the system down, remove the power cable, wait 10 seconds, re-connect the cable and power on the PC. After I did this Windows booted normally.
I received some advice on the OCZ forums to reset CMOS and leave hotplugging disabled. Then re-flash the drive to 2.11 with hotplugging disabled. Some members thought this would make the drive act like an internal drive, not an external drive. However, a week after doing this the same BSOD appeared. I've started from scratch last week by secure erasing the drive and re-installing Windows, but same issues. I noticed MSI released a new BIOS for my board in July. I have the one from April currently.
Is it worth upgrading my BIOS? The listed fixes don't say anything about SSDs.
I plan on trying this when I get home from work:
Quote from: Tony;676791
Going to keep this brief and to the point, this hack will force the 2 primary sata2 or sata3 ports on the motherboards to be designated Internal only...You can do this hack for all Intel chipsets from around ICH8 onwards in win7 and Vista.
You also need to make sure hotplugging is disabled in uefi/bios if your boards bios has the option(s) do this first before you do any of these regedits etc
1 Remove all traces of Intel drivers on your system, that means remove the management engine driver, the RST driver and the INF driver, you do this thru the programs and features option in control panel. I remove them all before I reboot, the system will automagically set you using the MSAHCI driver.
2 Now reboot, let win7 detect the ssd and reboot again.
3 now open a elevated command window (CMD with administrator privileges) and copy/paste the following...then hit enter.
Code: [Select]
reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\msahci\Controller0\Channel0" /f /v TreatAsInternalPort /t REG_DWORD /d 0x00000001
Once you hit enter you can then add the following again using copy/paste.
Code: [Select]
reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\msahci\Controller0\Channel1" /f /v TreatAsInternalPort /t REG_DWORD /d 0x00000001
Hit enter and close CMD.EXE down, reboot
This will now force the 2 sata 3 ports to Internal only, this means they will apply LPM if you set it and will support Automatic Partial to slumber.
I now suggest you experiment with power schemes, for some high performance may work better than balanced...try both
You also need to make sure hotplugging is disabled in uefi do this first before you do any of these regedits etc
If you want to go a step further than this you can try the following...ONLY do this after you have done the steps above.
remove the SSD to start
1 create a temporary win7 install on a hdd, use the msahci driver and once installed do the hack to force the 2 ports to internal only. Have the hdd connected to port 1 on the motherboard.
2 once the install is ready and you have installed toolbox to it power down and connect the SSD to port 0
3 now boot to the HDD, use the manual boot menu option to make sure you are booting to the HDD and make sure hotplugging is OFF in UEFI
4 once in win7, flash the FW to the drive, when its finished flashing, close toolbox, reboot back to the HDD and back into win7...make sure the SSD is detected in my computer.
5 now power off, remove the HDD...then boot to UEFI and make sure to set the SSD as first boot device
6 Power up, boot to the SSD
Stay using the MSAHCI driver for now, do not install any INF, IME or RST drivers.
Edit 09/09/11
Had a few end users quoting disabling TRIM solved BSOD for them...now im not saying it will solve BSOD for all but it may be worth trying. Remember the SandForce controller was originally designed without TRIM in mind, it functions just fine without it so you should see no loss of performance. If you want to help the controller stay fast you could always add some extra over provisioning by reducing the volume on the drive and leaving that space unallocated...totally up to you what you do though....
I like 25% OP on my drives, this means if I have a 120 with 115GB showing in windows I lose 15GB to OP and use 100GB for the volume....
A forum member wrote a little script to enable /disable trim...he wrote in support for wiper for Indilinx drives also...just ignore that part and use the TRIM function only...
http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/forum/showthread.php?63830-A-small-script-to-enable-disable-Trim
Here is a link to force TRIM also.. http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/forum/showthread.php?73888-Here-s-a-tool-to-force-TRIM-your-entire-drive&p=523305&viewfull=1#post523305 you could if you wanted use this once a week to force the drive to TRIM all marked deleted blocks if you turn off native TRIM in win7.
Again....not saying this cures any BSOD but a few end users have said they disabled TRIM and issues went away...anything I have suggested here is totally reversible and will do no harm to your systems.
If this doesn't work and I get a BSOD after a week I'll disable TRIM and if that doesn't work I have no idea. OCZ said they're working on a new firmware release so who knows. I just hate feeling like I am a beta tester.
If anyone has any suggestions let me know.

OK, had some time to go test your suggestions here
These are the 1.5V Vengeance RAM Modules. Tried installing 2 of the RAM on slots 2 and 4 on their own. System Boots Fine.
Went into the BIOS and changed the voltage applied to the RAM modules from
AUTO to 1.575V. On AUTO it says is applying 1.5V to the 2x 4GB modules.
Installed the full 4x RAM on all slots... and the system just shuts down. Power cycling again.
What do you think here? Bad Motherboard? Can't think of anything else to try... totally stumped!
Thanks!

MSI P67A-C43 problems

Hey everyone. I recently bought a MSI P67A-C43 using a Intel i5 2500K and everything has been working great until recently. I realized it has a post beep every time you turn it on, which is the short beeps followed by a 5th beep and everything starts running after that. Well for some reason recently my computer turns on and the post beeps go 4 times and then it takes a good 3 minutes or more for the 5th beep to go through and everything starts up. I'm not sure what is going on with it and I'm hoping that the mother board doesn't have an issue.
The System has in it:
- MSI P67A-C43 (B3) Mainboard
- Intel Core i5-2500K
- COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus HSF
- XFX Black Edition P1-750B-CAG9 750W ATX12V v2.2 / ESP12V v2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS SILVER PSU
- ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner
- Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" HDD
- AZZA Solano 1000 Black/Black Japanese SECC Steel/Metal mesh in front ATX Full Tower
- EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti FPB 1024 MB GDDR5 PCI-Express 2.0 Graphics Card
- Turtle Beach Montego DDL 7.1 Sound card
Any idea what could be wrong?

I'm not sure what it is, I could deal with it but I'm afraid one of these times I will go turn the computer on and it won't start up windows at all.
Anyone have any advice on what might be going on?

MSI P67A-C43 (B3) Trouble

I have the MSI P67A-C43 (B3) motherboard with a Core i5 2500K, a 600w OCZ PSU, 1TB WD Black Caviar HDD, Radeon HD 4670, and some Corsair Vengeance RAM.
I just put it together and it turns on, but nothing comes on to my screen. All of the fans start, the LEDs on the MB light up saying the CPU is on, CPU fan spins, and GPU fan spins. I don't know what's wrong with it, I switched the RAM around and also tried only using one stick and it gave me different errors, so I assume the RAM works. The speaker/buzzer made noises that went like this: mid mid high low low low low low
MB:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130571
CPU:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115072
GPU:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161315
PSU:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341017
HDD:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136533
RAM:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145348

Quote
i unplugged everything and then reassembled, testing along the way
Have you tested the board outside the case on a non-conducting surface in barebone configuration? Yes or no? If the answer is "no", then that is what you should do next/first. Get rid of the case. It is not needed for troubleshooting.
Also, have you >>Cleares CMOS<<?
Quote
I've done as many tests as I know how to do.
What did you test exactly? Please make a list that tells us your precise steps!
Quote
CPU doesn't even seems to have pins.
Did you check the socket pins? Yes or no? Check the CPU's contact pads for areas of poor, missing or double imprints from the board's socket pins!
When you board is on a non-conducting surface (get rid of the case!) you can pretty much rule out short circuit problems. In barebone configuration, the following parts should be involved:
- board
- CPU + cooler/heatsink
- one stick of RAM
- video card
- PSU with all power connectors connected (--> 4/8 Pin +12V CPU, 24 Pin ATX, 6/8 Pin +12v PCI-E [video card])
- keyboard
Everything else should be unplugged completely! Your video shows a hard drive/SATA device connected to the board. Unplug that. It is not needed for troubleshooting.
Your problem could be caused by any of the components mentioned above, not necessarely the mainboard.
Quote
CPU+MB+PSU=shutdown right away
CPU+MB+PSU+HDD=shutdown right away
CPU+MB+PSU+HDD+RAM=BEEP CODE, same one as the above one
When the board was inside the case when you did that, then the test is useless because a short circuit problem could still be at the bottom of this. Also, you need to check your socket pins and the contact pads. This could be a plain and simple pin-contact problem, caused by broken pins or a heatsink that is fastened to tight.

Beeping on startup MSI P67A-C43 (b3)

plugged in 5 USB devices. on start up 5 short beeps and 1 loud beep all works great but windows 7 wont recognise USB mouse and need to be replugged than works like charm
any idea what meen that one LOUD beep???
MSI P67A-C43 (b3) BIOS Version V1.10, 3/31/2011
Intel(R) Core(TM) i3 2100 CPU @ 3.10GHz, 3100Mhz, 2Core(s), 4 Logical Processor(s)
Kingston 2x2GB DDR3-1333 (667MHz) Dual Channel 1 stick in first slot , 2 stick in third slot
MAXTOR STM3250310AS ATA Device 250GB
DVD/CD ATAPI iHAS124 B ATA Device
NVIDIA GeForce 8600 GT
ZITO 400W ATX 12V P4 AC INPUT:230V/115V AC 6A/10A 50Hz/60Hz Model:400D
is this configuration OK ? or something need to be replaced???
tnx in front

How many +12V continuous amps does that PSU supply? Recommend to contact MSI Tech Support & let them know of the mouse issue. They may have a UEFI/BIOS revision that will take care of that. http://support.msi.com
Quote
any idea what meen that one LOUD beep???
Added: The one loud beep is usually the POST beep.

MSI P67A-C43 B3 Intel P67 - S/PDIF Coax Sound Issues

I recently put together a new PC with the MSI P67A-C43 B3 Intel P67 Mobo and am having some issues with the digital coax out to my digital 2.1 speakers. The speakers worked fine with my ancient SB card, so I know those aren't the issue. The issue I'm having is a clicking sound before and after sound almost as if the output is activating to play the sound and then deactivating when done. It stays on and plays fine when gaming, however it's very annoying when doing other windows tasks that involve sound as it's making the clicking sound before and after playing a sound. I opened a ticket with MSI support and they simply told me to RMA the board, but I don't feel like ripping everything apart and I really don't think it's a hardware defect. Has anyone else ran into this, or have any ideas on a fix?

This is a nasty little issue with the way Windows and Realtek work together with S/PDIF. I don't recall this issue with my sound card so I think it's probably Realtek that needs to fix this. The problem is that the digital S/PDIF port is closed after every access and it doesn't manage reopening the port correctly, it just opens when it's accessed again. This means that the port isn't ready in time to send any short sound transfers so they just make very ugly clicking noises. You can eliminate 99% of this by doing the following:
1. Open the control panel and select "Hardware and Sound"
2. Select "Change System Sounds"
3. Select the sound tab
4. Under the "Program Events:" list, select the following commands and set the "Sounds:" drop-down list to "None"
Under the "Windows" section:
Close Program
Maximize
Menu Command
Menu Pop-up
Minimize
Open Program
Program Error
Restore Down
Restore Up
Select
Show Toolbar Band
Under the "Windows Explorer" section:
Complete Navigation
Move Menu Item
Search Provided Discovered
Start Navigation
If you still hear some clicks then you may have some other programs that are sending short sound sequences to the port. Now that you've reminded me, I'm going to log a bug on this with MSI and anyone else with this problem should do the same. If they hear enough about it they might fix it the right way.
- D

Phone screen NOT working but phone IS working

Like the subject says, my screen is not working, but phone works fine.
I was able to guess the 'turn on USB storage' button and I got everything backed up.
I didn't drop or let my anger loose on the phone =P.
This is my 3rd replacement phone! I read another thread on the first page of someone complaining they are on their 4th phone. Prior to that reading, I was hoping I could upgrade or convince them to give me a NEW phone rather than a used. I guess that won't be happening.
I also tried all sorts of battery pulls including waiting 30min before I put it back in...none of this worked.
So I guess my best bet atm is to take it in to the store?
Thanks!

I am on my second Droid. The first one was damaged due to me dropping it. I have insurance and had a replacement sent to me. A month later I get the BSOD Black or Blank Screen of Death. I did the battery thing as well as a hard rest and nothing.
I am three months away from an upgrade and I am starting to think of downgrading to just an ordinary phone.
It seems that smartphones are too problematic and require dealing with multiple parties i.e Verizon, Motorola, and the Insurance company for the phone.

Bluetooth AND USB not working

Hi friends i'm facing 2 problems1. my bluetooth is not working properly, initially it wont show any blutooth icon when i start up, but after i restart it shows and start working, every time i need to repeat this to use bluetooth. kindly suggest me the solution.2. the usb ports (3.0 and2.0) both doesnt work properly, they only detect devices wen i go to device manager and scan for hardware devices.

I was also worried that bluetooth is not working. But eventually came to know that this model 15R203TX has bluetooth version 4.0 which is backward compatible to other bluetooth devices of version 2.0 to 2.1 EDR. Means if your hand set or any bluetooth device is having version 2.0 or 2.1 EDR it won't able to send any data or see this laptop model while transferring data. Moreover if you try to send data from laptop to other bluetooth device irrespective of version it is able to send data. Now it is Same with WiFi this model is backward compatible to IEEE 802.11 a/b/g. means you can't receive signals from this devices unless the router is having IEEE 802.11 b/g/n/ac. For USB not working may be its a BIOS issue. While boot up try to press F2 key. And enter the diagonistic blue page. There you can check the version of BIOS or try to reinstall the updated BIOS by downloading it from HP support. If USB still not woking then try to go to nearest authorised HP service centre.

I bought Hp 15 g207ax, 2 out of 3 usb not working, and all drivers missing, no ethernet or no wifi

i bought a new Hp 15 G207AX.
issue 1 - 2 out of 3 usb not working, 1 usb 3.0 and 1 usb2.0 not working. 1 usb 2.0 is working properly
question 1- is it because of faulty laptop or driver issue? also, if it is driver issue, then why 1 usb 2.0 is working?
issue 2 - All Drivers are missing.
question 2 - where can i find all the drivers?
issue 3 - no ethernet and no wifi connecting
question 3 - is there a driver for ethernet too? can you tell me what drivers i need to install for ethernet or wifi. because without those, i cant do anything?
looking for your immediate reply. as if in 1st question, if usb ports are defective and laptop is faulty, i will ask for a replacement or refund.

Likely all of these issues would be fixed with the chipset driver.
Did you look at the solutions listed in that other forum post I linked to above?
...an HP employee just trying to help where I can, but not speaking on behalf of HP.

MSI P67A-C43 B3 won't POST with Full RAM Installed

Hello all,
I recently purchased the MSI P67A-C43 B3 mainboard as a custom build
and have been having trouble with it. I have 16GB of ram for this board
(4x 4GB) and when I have 8GB installed (slots 1 and 3 filled), it POSTS fine.
When I fill ALL the slots for 16GB total, the board won't POST and just
power cycles ON and OFF and ON and OFF, etc...
I have replaced the memory and the PSU and am about to replace the
mainboard, but wanted to ask if anyone might have a suggestion for
troubleshooting before I do that.
Here's what I'm running on the system:
mainboard: MSI P67A-C43 B3
proc: Intel Core i7-2600K 3.4Ghz Unlocked
proc cooler: Corsair Hydro H80 CPU Liquid Cooler
ram: Corsair High Perform Vengeance 4GB DDR3 1600Mhz2x4 (4 of these)
HDD: OCZ TECHNOLOGY 120GB VERTEX PLUS SSD and Seagate 1TB LP Serial ATA HD 5900/32MB/SATA-3G
CD Drive: Sony Optiarc 24X DVDRW SATA
video: EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti FPB 1024MB GDDR5 PCB PCIe
PSU: Thermaltake 750W Modular Power Supply. 80+ Bronze
case: Thermaltake Chaser MK-I Full Tower Gaming Case
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64Bit DVD
Any ideas here would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

OK, had some time to go test your suggestions here
These are the 1.5V Vengeance RAM Modules. Tried installing 2 of the RAM on slots 2 and 4 on their own. System Boots Fine.
Went into the BIOS and changed the voltage applied to the RAM modules from
AUTO to 1.575V. On AUTO it says is applying 1.5V to the 2x 4GB modules.
Installed the full 4x RAM on all slots... and the system just shuts down. Power cycling again.
What do you think here? Bad Motherboard? Can't think of anything else to try... totally stumped!
Thanks!

MSI P67A-C43 (B3) USB not working but theres a twist! Help!

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