MSI reveals AM3+ 970 GAMING motherboard Get ready for high end AMD GAMING

MSI, world leading in motherboards, debuts its first AMD AM3+ socket based GAMING motherboard, the MSI 970 GAMING. Inherited with the outstanding DNA of MSI's award winning GAMING family, the new MSI AM3+ 970 GAMING motherboard features Killer LAN for the best online GAMING experience, Audio Boost 2 powered by Creative Sound Blaster Cinema2 for astonishing sound quality that gives you the upper hand on the battlefield, USB Audio Power and a whole new hardware and software design for enhanced gaming performance. Get ready for high end AMD GAMING with MSI.

Quote from: defetonezzzzz on 25-June-14, 19:19:45
MSI, world leading in motherboards, debuts its first AMD AM3+ socket based GAMING motherboard, the MSI 970 GAMING. Inherited with the outstanding DNA of MSI's award winning GAMING family, the new MSI AM3+ 970 GAMING motherboard features Killer LAN for the best online GAMING experience, Audio Boost 2 powered by Creative Sound Blaster Cinema2 for astonishing sound quality that gives you the upper hand on the battlefield, USB Audio Power and a whole new hardware and software design for enhanced gaming performance. Get ready for high end AMD GAMING with MSI.
Link?
http://www.msi.com/product/mb/970_GAMING.html#hero-overview
Anyone know the TDP of this board?
In a comparison it looks practically identical to the 125W G46-970a.  Except the G46 has a sound optical out--the features list says the Gamer board doesn't--and the board pics confirm that.  Board looks to have better software than the G46--possibly better sound output, maybe.

Similar Messages

  • MOVED: MSI reveals AM3+ 970 GAMING motherboard Get ready for high end AMD GAMING

    This topic has been moved to MSI AMD boards.
    https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=181363.0

    Quote from: defetonezzzzz on 25-June-14, 19:19:45
    MSI, world leading in motherboards, debuts its first AMD AM3+ socket based GAMING motherboard, the MSI 970 GAMING. Inherited with the outstanding DNA of MSI's award winning GAMING family, the new MSI AM3+ 970 GAMING motherboard features Killer LAN for the best online GAMING experience, Audio Boost 2 powered by Creative Sound Blaster Cinema2 for astonishing sound quality that gives you the upper hand on the battlefield, USB Audio Power and a whole new hardware and software design for enhanced gaming performance. Get ready for high end AMD GAMING with MSI.
    Link?
    http://www.msi.com/product/mb/970_GAMING.html#hero-overview
    Anyone know the TDP of this board?
    In a comparison it looks practically identical to the 125W G46-970a.  Except the G46 has a sound optical out--the features list says the Gamer board doesn't--and the board pics confirm that.  Board looks to have better software than the G46--possibly better sound output, maybe.

  • Is Nokia ready for high end market?

    It is the time of smartphones.  With the introduction of 3G, distance and speed are not a barrier at all.  Prediction is that, we will see a shift from laptop to smartphones, something we experienced a few years ago when laptop replaced desktops. So, is Nokia really ready for this competitve market?  I believe they are still not ready looking at the way they support N series and E series.
     My horror story started the day I purchased my N96, exactly 4 months back.   I have been watching the developments of N95 and wanted to own one.  Nokia released N96 by the time I made my decision.  The problem started when I started seeing low memory errors.  To my surprise, I noticed that Nokia uses phone memory for messages and N-gauge.  Configuring "mass memory" as the storage for messages didn't solve the problem completely as it failed to move all messagesI searched for some file explorer kind of applications to explore and clean phone memory.  I wish if Nokia had one.  The solution given to me by Nokia support was to reset the phone.  And, that cleared all data from my phone.  So, here are a list of my pain points
    - Does Nokia expect us to reset phone for every small issues.  Note that, these are not just phones, but smart phones.  More than contacts, I have my personal data, bookmarks, configurations, rss feeds, video feeds, radio stations, podcasts, GPS locations, blogging tools, applications etc. installed.  Getting back the phone in the same state will take days after a hard reset.  Do I agree if my laptop service center tells me that they have to format my harddisk everytime I take my laptop for servicing? Nokia Care's standard answer is to update the firmware (though I have the latest firmware) and reset the phone for any issues.  I only wish if Nokia trained their technicians to handle smartphones.  
    - N96 reboots when I use GPS 50% of the times (when you use it for longer duration either with google map or Nokia map or sports tracker)
    - Phone hangs when you move from wifi hotspot to other places while wifi scan is going on (I don't see this issue after upgrading to 12.043)
    - There is no way to restart the phone when the phone hangs.  You have to take out the battery and put it back.
    - I get disconnected frequently when I'm on long calls.  Though I can blame my network provider, I know its not completely because of them.  My N70 doesn't have this problem.
    - I have been having a long battle with Nokia support and bluetooth issues.  I tried to use Motorola HT820 headset with this phone.  Phone hangs or reboots 90% time when I turn on the headset.  Nokia's standard answer is that Motorola HT820 is not a supported accessory.  I agree, but is it acceptable if phone reboots or hangs when I tried to use an unsupported accessory?  Only way to reboot the phone when it hangs is to remove the battery and place it back.  Why can't they give a reset switch hidden somewhere if they can't write bugfree code (and nonone can).  I have been doing this for the last one month while trying to convince Nokia that they have a problem with their bluetooth stack. I can prove that it happens only with A2DP profile.  I have been using a plantronics bluetooth headset without any problem.  I'm also using HT820 with my Nokia N70 which supports only HSP profile. Unfortunately, N96 doesn't provide an option to choose what profile you want to use when you pair a bluetooth headset.  I could have listened to music from my laptop (A2DP) while the headset is connected with phone (HSP), and I don't miss any calls.  I'm pretty sure it is a bug in their bluetooth stack; only if I could talk to one of their developers and explain the problem.  
    - You know the commotion Nokia created when they removed VoIP stack from N96.  Thanks to Fring, I use VoIP and skype with N96 today.  
    - The NetWork stack is so cumbursome.  Each applications have to define their own access points and rights.  Why can't it be in the platform level? Just imagin you doing this on your laptop for each of the applications.
    - Its better not to talk about the battery.  It comes for less than a day for me.  But, you can always blaim the usage.
    How do we make Nokia listen to issues?  Do they have any customer feedback forum (please, not through the Nokia Care centers)?  I wish if they improve, after all, I still love my phone (Yes, I paid a good amount for this phone)
    --jaimon
    N96, FW: 12.043

    Hi Jaimon,
    I'm with you - I've had my N96 nearly six months and am VERY disappointed.
    I just bought a Parrot Party Bluetooth speaker. A GREAT little unit. Needless to say, the implementation of A2DP leaves a LOT to be desired on the N96. Basically, it's like listening to a CD that skips every 10 seconds. The N96 cannot keep up the stream of data fast enough. It's VERY annoying.
    I checked to make sure no other apps were running to make sure it wasn't something else running that was causing the problem, but no, it's rubbish (I have firmware 12.043). Other people in my office can connect their Blackberries etc... no problem. Plays back beautifully, but my N96? Piece of garbage.
    Nokia have a LOT to answer for! Like you say, a phone that costs more than a laptop and this is the level of service we get. I have written TWICE via their online customer service form, and on each occasion received an email saying I can expect a response in 72 hours. I've never received ANYTHING!
    Also, I had a Plantronics headset - Explorer 340. A nice headset. Same problems as mentioned elsewhere, would intermittently be disconnected and reconnected - very annoying. Last week, it paired but would not connect. Plantronics' support was wonderful! So efficient. They're exchanging the unit with a newer model (brand new) because they cannot replace the old model. Maybe that will work better. Meanwhile, because I NEED a headset for driving (and the supplied stereo headset is pathetic - cable too short, microphone ends up around your waist (USELESS!)) I bought (*gasp*) a Nokia BH-101. Paired fine with the N96 (as one would EXPECT), but the headset itself is lousy - such a poor design. I challenge anyone to make it fit in their ear comfortably enough as to be able to HEAR the bloody thing while driving. I have to keep one hand on it to keep it in my ear. USELESS NOKIA!
    What is it WITH this company?! Why have they lost the plot?!??!
    Ian Nicholson
    Poor Sod/N96 Owner
    Nokia: Connecting People... with iPhones.

  • RE: Getting ready for production

    Take the Forte Project Management Class. It tell you everything you
    need to know
    to go live.
    ka
    From: Julie Muth[SMTP:[email protected]]
    Sent: Monday, August 18, 1997 9:39 AM
    To: [email protected]
    Subject: Getting ready for production
    We'll be deploying our first application into production in the near
    future and I'ld be interested in any advice you have to offer - horror
    stories, successes, what worked, what didn't, what you would do
    differently. Also, any advice on the organization and skill set of the
    people doing deployments would be appreciated.
    Julie Muth
    Assistant Project Director
    NYS Division of Criminal Justice Services
    Albany, NY
    [email protected]

    Ok... here we go, not sure what you are doing except editing DV right now,
    but this will work for HDV, DVCPROHD, Uncompressed SD and some ProRes
    as long as you have a good Gigabit Router to transfer files. Please consult
    a professional if this sounds scary to you.
    *Redundant FILE SERVER* for project files, important stuff
    1. Install at least 4GB RAM in G5 #1 (max $200)
    3. Make sure there are two identical SATA drives in the G5. Install OSX Leopard Server ($499) on 1 drive. Use Carbon Copy Cloner (Free... http://www.bombich.com/software/ccc.html) and clone
    the main drive to SATA drive #2 when drive #1 is set up completely. Use drive #2 as backup.
    4. Connect CalDigit 2.56TB HDOne External Hard Drive Array (RAID-5) with PCI-X adapter ($2830)
    SubTotal: $3600...ish
    *Current MacPro* Add unprotected scratch disk for main edit suite
    1. Install Sonnet Tempo SATA e4p Serial ATA Host Adapter ($260)
    2. Connect Sonnet 2.5TB Fusion D500P eSATA Array System (RAID-0) ($1700)
    Subtotal: $2000...ish
    *2nd G5* convert to p2 Logging/backup Station
    1. Sony BWU-200S Internal 4x Blu-ray Disc Rewritable Drive (599.95)
    2. Roxio Toast ($85)
    SubTotal: $700
    *NEW Intel MacPro* will increase productivity
    1. 8 Core 3ghz Intel MacPro ($3600)
    Total: Around 9900-10,000
    (Buy from PowerMax.com or other out of state vendor to avoid sales tax)
    If you want to organize things, then FCS will help. You can install
    on G5#2 for 999.00 more. I would focus on hardware first though.

  • Getting ready for a video capture project, need some guidance

    Hi, I'm getting ready to hold an xbox LAN tournament and I would like to capture the game to my computer so I can give people DVDs of it afterwards. The G5 i my first tower and I've had no experience in PCI cards and capturing A/V and all that jazz.
    Basically I'm going to be having an input of component cables (though its only going to be 480p, no HD) and possibly optical audio, though more likely analog because I'm going to try to borrow a mixer and run everyone's headsets into the G5.
    What am I going to need as far as a video capture card? Will it work in the PCI-X slot or am I going to have to swap it with my 9650 XT?
    Also, I'm guessing I'm going to have to buy final cut express to do the software capturing (Seriously, if you couldn't tell already, I really have no idea what I'm doing )
    I'm willing to buy the hardware and software required and get some books to figure out the process, but if anyone could point me in the right direction, that would be awesome.
    Thanks a bunch,
    Sean

    I use a Canopus DV converter to capture analog video/audio to my computer. I've got the ADVC-100 which has been updated to ADVC-110 and costs about $250. It connects via firewire and works like a charm. I capture using iMovie HD which more than meets my needs for now. I burn dvd's using iDVD which also meets my current needs. My setup is audio-video source, usually a vcr, to the ADVC-100, to the G5 via firewire. Make sure you've got plenty of dick space available to capture. I use aa 320 gb external SATA RAID set. It's really an easy setup and capturing and buring using Apple's software is a snap. Not a steep learning curve. I would suggest if your going to use more advanced software to get a few projects under your belt before the tournament, if you're going to use the iApps you'll find them much easier to learn and will be up and running sooner.

  • Getting ready for Web produce - is just select by filter okay?

    I'm getting ready to produce wedding shots for the web. Just to make sure, I wanted to ask:
    Do I just tag the images in this set that I want to appear in the web site and do a 'select by' filter selection for the one's I have marked? And will those then be the only one's that appear in the final web site?
    Thank You, I hope this is the way this works,
    Ken

    You can tag/flag/star images then filter by that tag/flag/star.  Then the Web gallery will only include the filtered images.  What doesn't work is selecting a group of images then trying to make a Web gallery of just those.  The Web gallery will use all images shown in the thumbnail view, rather than just the selected ones.  (In other words, you need to use a filter.)
    However, collections have the added virtue of allowing resequencing.

  • Is PS ready for high-res laptop screens?

    I am considering buying Dell Precision M3800 but the I am really worried that it won't be usable for PS.
    Has there been any improvement in this issue?

    Photoshop CS6 won't scale and won't be patched to scale. Only CC 2014 has the 200% adjustment so you can read the interface on the M3800 laptop.
    Photoshop CC (v 14) won't either. CC 2014 (v15) will.
    I'm not familiar with other programs in CS6, so you have to ask in their respective forums.
    The other bad news is that files you see in your old laptop at 100% will appear half-sized on a high dpi screen. So I don't know how M3800 users get around that.
    A recent update: Photoshop: Introducing scale the UI 200% for high-density displays for Windows
    You should join that thread if you have further questions. Chris Cox is the senior programmer for Photoshop.
    Gene

  • Getting ready for printing...

    I have a Canon G12 and shoot in RAW format. I know the native aspect ration for this camera in RAW is 4:3. I also know already that the two sizes of finished prints I am interested in are 8x10 and 16x20. After importing the images from my camera into my computer (and into Aperture), I can see that the pixel dimensions for my RAW images are 3648x2736 for portrait (and vice versa for landscape).
    After making whatever color correction and changes to the image, I am happy with what I have. So moving onto the crop and aspect ration and dpi settings - and then the export to have an altered and saved new image to send off for printing - this is where I feel totally lost.
    For example...the crop sizes listed, I see 4x5/8x10 - my understand is that these sizes...4x5, 8x10, 16x20 - they are all the exact same aspect ration - so no matter how big or small I want to print the image, as long as I want one of those sizes, it would be fine, correct?
    When I initially click on the 4x5/8x10 selection, it puts a small crop area in the center of the photo. But it allows me to drag the corners to enlarge the crop area, so I am curious to know...is the 4x5/8x10 crop area that initial smaller section, or is it still the same even if I click and drag ou the corners making it larger.
    Does anyone know also, how/where do I change the dpi to 300?
    And lastly, how do I know if I have enough pixels to make an 8x10 or a 16x20. I have RAW files and JPEGS - and they all vary in pixel dimension. Is there a simple process to figure out if what I see on the computer screen will look the same as a finished print?

    Excellent questions ... that cover a lot of ground.
    3648 / 2736 = 1.333333333.  The aspect ration is 4:3.
    Are you printing from Aperture or sending a file out to be printed?  If printing from Aperture, all you need to do is create a Version that is ready to print, and then print it.  Printing from Aperture is an export-and-print operation -- there is no need to export the file and save it.
    (This is worth understanding.  In Aperture, you make Images that are ready to be exported (or printed), but you don't create files (or prints) until you need them.)
    The aspect ratio has no units -- it is just a ratio.  It describes not the size of a rectangle, but the ratio of the sides of a rectangle.  4:3, 8:6, 1.33:1 are all identical aspect ratios.
    Once you have set the aspect ratio, you can set the size (and position) of your rectangular crop by dragging the crop box handles or the crop box itself.
    Generally speaking, you will want at least 150 pixels for each inch to be printed, and don't need more than 300.  150 ppi is a slightly impracticable minimum -- you will likely want to use some sophisticated up-rezing to get a stellar print.  200-250 ppi is enough.  300 ppi is plenty.  All of this is based on norms of printers, ink, papers, and display (distance, lighting) that may or may not fit your needs.
    For a 16" x 20" print that looks good at arm's length 3,200 x 4,000 pixels should suffice.
    Aperture includes soft-proofing.  You select a profile of the printer, paper, and the printing settings, and Aperture will apply this to your Image and show you what should be a match.  Soft-proofing is complicated.  At a minimum, you will need a high-quality monitor and hardware calibration.
    The User Manual covers much of this in detail particular to Aperture, including a section on Proofing.  Well worth reading.
    Message was edited by: Kirby Krieger

  • Getting ready for AppleCare phone talk tomorrow...

    My new iMac arrived Friday. But, except for taking it out of the box, have done nothing yet.
    Reason: I want to do it right from the get-go. And I am not all that confident in my computerese abilities. I intend to accomplish a couple of things with a *real live person* from AppleCare on the phone. (Reason for AppleCare versus Apple Discussion Forums? Not for the advice. Used them in the past and they were not as helpful as Discussion Forums, even downright wrong at times). But for now, I want to tie up an expert, keep him/her on the phone, until I get this all done the right way. Step-by-step. But the primary reason for AppleCare for three years? The hardware/labor protection.
    So, to get going according to the little Apple book:
    1) Set-up. Did read the little book that came w the computer. By the way, a 21.5" ATI Radeon HD 4670 256MB (whatever that means) iMac, 3.33 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, 8 GB RAM, 2TB Serial ATA Drive (Again, whatever that means). This compares to my present iMac, specs below. Believe I will see an enormous difference.....particularly with my primary computer activity...home music recording (i.e. GarageBand).
    By set-up, I mean what it said in the little book (hardly a manual):
    1) insert the power cord into the iMac and into an outlet (But don't turn the computer on yet? Really?);
    2) Connect Ethernet cable into iMac and into Modem (Should the modem be turned on, or off when hooking up? Does it make any difference?);
    3) Turn on wireless keyboard and mouse. (Does this mean the keyboard and mouse should not be turned on before the computer itself?);
    4) Press power button on iMac to turn it on (so, I guess you shouldn't turn the iMac "on" in step 1);
    5) use +Setup Assistant+ to Configure you Mac. This is where, as I understand, you transfer files/applications from the "old" computer onto this *"new one."* But.....if you choose not to do it now, you can accomplish the same by using +Migration Assistant+ later. Question: Which is the preferable method? _Setup Assistant_ to do transfers immediately, or _Migration Assistant_ to do it later?
    6) Customize you iMac and set you preferences.
    These are the six steps the little Apple book lists to get you up and running.
    Once up and running, is there a preferable way to hook up peripherals? (i.e. printer first?, keyboard/synthesizer, preamp, external hard drive, etc?)
    Before my phone call, I want to be ready. Already have gone through the maze of cords behind my computer work station. To ensure that I can access the proper cords and cables when I'm on the phone with AppleCare.
    *Should I have a Firewire cable ready?* To transfer stuff from my old iMac to the new one? Would seem so.
    Is there anything else I should have available before I place my call? Don't want to waste their time, certainly not mine.
    My other concerns about this new computer,and there have been a few, have already been addressed.....to my satisfaction here in Discussion Forums.
    Very excited to get this thing up and running. And apprehensive. Want to make sure this iMac is what I ordered. Want to make sure everything is working. Just want to use it.
    Thanks everyone, in advance.

    nemateoz wrote:
    Seems that doing this is best done right away with Setup Assistant....as opposed to doing it later with Migration Assistant. Does this mean if I don't do it right away I can't use Setup Assistant later but am relegated to Migration Assistant?
    Usually. (You can get to it later, but you'd have to erase your internal HD and reinstall OSX.)
    And that lengthy narrative on Time Machine versus Time Capsule talks about "backing up" to a selected disc. How am I backing up when I'm thinking I'm just copying stuff onto my new computer. (Also, don't see any video there...the site you mentioned).
    Yes, sorry, wrong link. Try this one: Time Machine Tutorial
    Ignore (for now) all the stuff about backing-up. About 2/3 of the way through, there's a title on the screen: +Migrating to a new Mac.+ It shows how to do that from Time Machine backups, of course, but the first option on the +Do You Already Own a Mac?+ screen is to transfer from another Mac. That's what you want; otherwise the process is exactly the same, and very easy.
    +Note that neither Setup Assistant nor Migration Assistant will replace newer Apple apps that came with the new Mac with older ones from your old one, so that's not a concern.+
    That's really good to know. But how will I know the difference from, say: GarageBand 2 (older version) from the new GarageBand included in iLife '09? I think they'll both have the same guitar icon. Once both GB versions are on my new computer, could I simply rename the old GarageBand to GarageBand 2 and leave the new...with an icon that just says GarageBand... alone?
    I don't know about GarageBand in particular; but most likely you'll have only the new one. If you do have two, you can always easily determine what version an app is. Either right-click it in the Applications folder and select +Get Info,+ or start it up and select the name of the app in the Menubar, then the +About <app name>+ option.
    How would I differentiate between old and new iPhoto, iMovie, etc?
    For those and most or all others, you'll only have the new version. OSX will automatically "convert" any old files to the new format, so all your previous stuff will work with the new one.
    It seems that I have one chance at doing this. According to the little book that came with my new iMac: +The first time you turn on your iMac, Setup Assistant starts....If you don't use Setup Assistant to transfer information when you first start up, you can do it later by using Migration Assistant.+
    It's really quite easy. Just take your time and it will be up and running fine in just a few minutes.
    So this would have to be done before anything else, like hooking up my printer, or setting up the modem/internet?
    Yes. Again, see the video (now that I gave you the right link). But you shouldn't have to do anything to set up your modem/internet, other than plug in the cable. It should just work. If your printer is compatible with Snow Leopard, it should just work, also.
    Also note on the video link, there are a number of other video demonstrations available. After you get your shiny new Mac up and running, you might want to check them out, as there are some differences from Panther.
    And you'll also want to explore backup strategies at some point, if you're not doing regular backups now.
    Not to worry: it really is very quick and easy.

  • Getting Ready for Migration - Problem with BT ID

    Hi,
    I have read several e-mails from a recent thread on the forum which suggest that Migration of BT Yahoo e-mail accounts to the BT Mail service might resume sometime soon, and may even be completed by the end of April. Whether that will be so or not I guess we will have to wait and see. However, just in case, and for my account to be as ready as it can be, I need clarification of a particular potential problem.
    I used to have two phone lines, let us say Line 1 and line 2. Now I only have one 'active' line (Line 1). Line 2 was cancelled a long time ago and my Broadband transferred to Line 1.
    The above two lines had two seperate BT ID's (e-mail addresses). One being my Primary e-mail address which is one that ends @btinternet.com, but this remains the BT ID attached to Line 2 (the cancelled line).
    The second BT ID, for Line 1, now my only line, has a User Name (e-mail address) which ends @gmail.com. The use of this e-mail address as the User Name was configured by a person on the BT Support Desk several years ago, when trying to resolve an issue at the time.
    This morning I tried to change the User Name (e-mail address) on my BT ID for Line 1, so that it has the correct Primary e-mail address (ending @btinternet.com), I was unable to do so as the system said that this e-mail was already in use on another account (see above re cancelled line 2).
    I can presently see no way that I can remove/delete/edit the account that covers the old cancelled line, so that it 'frees up' the use of my Primary e-mail address (@btinternet.com), enabling me to use it as the BT ID on my only remaining line (Line 1).
    Is there a way I can cancel/delete/remove the now unused account? If not, is there a way for me to edit my Profile on Line 1, so that I can use my correct Primary e-mail as the ID, in preparation for the migration?
    I apologise if this sound messy, but I want my account to be as 'clean' as possible, so that there are no potential problems when it finally comes to migration taking place.
    Any help or advice would be much appreciated.
    Regards,
    Alan

    Hi,
    First of all, thanks to whiskywheels for the well-intended suggestion. I appreciated the thought, but in my experience there is not a chance that just a phone call to BT Support whould have solved the problem. It was BT Phone Support that in part are responsible for creating the problem I now find myself with.
    However, the reason for my coming back on this is to say that I had a phone call this afternoon from a MOD who I am absolutely certain was trying to be honest and helpful. The upshot of what she said is that no useful purpose would be served by changing my BT ID, as I only have one BT ID, not two as I intimated in my first e-mail in this thread (see message 1 of this thread for an explanation).
    I do have two accounts (one live - with the only phone line I have) and (one dead and now unused, although I can still access its information in MyBT).
    Following the MOD's advice, having nothing to this effect in writing, I will try not to quote her exactly (I don't want to fall foul of breaking any BT rules etc), but my understanding was that my Primary e-mail address, and several sub-accounts are all 'linked' to one BT ID she said I have, the one that ends [email protected] .
    My reason for raising this in the first place was to be as prepared as I can be for Migration to BT Mail when it finally comes along.
    I have however to admit to now being really confused. Maybe it is the case that I have confused what is an ID, and the use of e-mail addresses as an ID. What I mean by that is as follows:
    Using the e-mail tab on the BT.Com homepage the login asks for BT ID or Email Address, and then a Password. If I then use the one BT ID I am told that I have, then subseqently add the current e-mail password, I get a message which says "We don't recognise your details. Please check you've entered your full email address and password correctly and try again."
    When I try inputting my primary e-mail address (instead of the BT ID), and then the e-mail password as before (which did work ok this afternnon, but now will not) I currently get the predictable request to change my password. It's a nightmare to say the least, and fills me with no confidence whatsoever for when that fateful day of Migration finally arrives.
    If the login that comes up after pressing the e-mail tab asks for a BT ID, why will that not work, if as the MOD says I only have one BT ID not the two that I had thought. I could go on, but I am sure you get the point, confusion reigns!
    I would have much preferred that my BT ID was the same as my primary e-mail address, but the MOD in question said 'to the effect' that it was not necessary.
    Any thoughts or advice??
    Regards,
    AlanF

  • AIR-LAP1242AG-K9 could not join a 2106 WLC: i ma getting ready for a deployment, how can i resolve this?

    Hi,
    I setup a mini wireless LAN network lab with a not for resale 2106 wireless lan controller and a sales  air-lap1242ag access point. I do not have a DHCP and DNS in my lab environment. I have configured the WLC with the basic configuration using the CLI wizard, i also configured the WLC as a DHCP server for clients that will be connecting to the APs associated to the controller.
    I powered up the AP and connect the ethernet port directly to the controller, the controller issued an IP address to the AP, the AP downloaded a new operating system from the controller but failed to join the controller.
    I check both debug message on the controller console and the trap messages on the controller's GUI  and it say the AP could not download a configuration from the controller and it is beacuse of invalid license. Below is the trap message:
    Configuration Phase Statistics
    Requests Received
    Responses Sent
    Unsuccessful Request Processed
    Reason For Last Unsuccessful Attempt
    Last Successful Attempt Time
    Last Unsuccessful Attempt Time
    Last Error Summary
    Last AP Message Decryption Failure
    Last AP Connection Failure
    Last Error Occurred
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