MSI X58 Platinum - power button after hibernate not working

Hi,
I have MSI X58 Platinum board that is having a problem recovering from hibernate state.
When I press the power button, it will turn on for about 2 seconds before shutting off again. Nothing is shown on the screen.
After pressing the power button several times more, it will then power up again and wake up from the hibernation. Everything is back to normal after that.
It used to work fine where single press to the power button is all it takes to wake up.
Has anyone experience this problem? It has no problem going to hibernate state (S3).
Thanks.

Ok, here's my complete configuration:
1) Motherboard: MSI X58 Platinum
2) Processor: i7-920
3) BIOS version: 3.80 (latest version)
4) VGA: Inno3D 8800 GT (512 MB DDR3)
5) Memory: 3 x 2 GB (Corsair DDR3 triple channel)
6) Hard drive: 300GB (Western Digital Velociraptor) + 1TB (Western Digital Caviar Black)
7) Optical Drives: DVD-RW (Asus), DVD-ROM (Asus)
8) Operating System: Windows 7 Ultimate (64 bits)
9) Power Supply: Sensonic 650 Watt

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Ok, here's my complete configuration:
1) Motherboard: MSI X58 Platinum
2) Processor: i7-920
3) BIOS version: 3.80 (latest version)
4) VGA: Inno3D 8800 GT (512 MB DDR3)
5) Memory: 3 x 2 GB (Corsair DDR3 triple channel)
6) Hard drive: 300GB (Western Digital Velociraptor) + 1TB (Western Digital Caviar Black)
7) Optical Drives: DVD-RW (Asus), DVD-ROM (Asus)
8) Operating System: Windows 7 Ultimate (64 bits)
9) Power Supply: Sensonic 650 Watt

Problem with MSI X58 Platinum SLI - IOH temperature !

Hi guys.
I have this PC configuration:
- MSI X58 Platinum SLI ( Bios Version 3.8 - http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/6707/161020101249.jpg )
- Intel Core i7 930 2.80 GHz box ( with Intel Turbo Boost running sometimes at 3.06 Ghz )
- MSI GeForce GT240 1GB DDR5 128-bit HDMI
- Corsair 6GB DDR3 1333MHz CL9 XMS3 Triple Channel Kit ( sets to AUTO and running at 1066 Mhz )
- Corsair CMPSU-750TXEU
- Ordinary case ( http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/4200/161020101246.jpg & http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/8480/161020101247.jpg ).
- Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit.
I bought my PC components 2 months ago, so they are new.
Now, guys I think that is a problem with my motherboard. When I turn on the computer in Bios I have this temps: CPU – 30 C (86 F); IOH – 71 C (159 F); System 30 C (86 F) - http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/394/161020101242.jpg. After 2 minutes the temperatures are: CPU – 34 C (93 F); IOH – 82 C (179 F); System 41 C (105 F) and 2 more minutes later the temperatures are: CPU – 34 C (93 F); IOH – 84 C (183 F); System 43 C (109 F). After 30 minutes of doing nothing I have this temps: CPU – 35 C (95 F); IOH – 85 C (185 F); System 42 C (107 F) -
Guys it is normal with IOH temperature ? I am a little worried about it ( to be honest I am more than “a little” … I am worried a lot ).
Ok, I know I don’t have a good case but in 3 weeks I should receive this Thermaltake Spedo Advance Case (http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?C=1121&ID=1829) and I will buy a new CPU cooler ( I don’t know yet wich one – maybe Corsair CWCH70 or Noctua NH-D14 but I have to see the case first … to be sure there is a plenty of space for those coolers ).
Pls help me with that IOH temperature. It is normal ? What if I intend to make a little OC ( lets say CPU to 3652 Mhz and RAM to 1333 Mhz … but also I will ask for your support ! ) my motherboard will burn ?
If it is necessary I will contact my retailer and send him back the motherboard but … I like MSI a lot.
Thx guys for your support !

Hey guys,
Here is a nice cheap alternative.
Here is my story about the same issue. I found it after looking at why my computer freezes sometimes. Not very often but enough for me to do some investigation. I noticed my IOH temp was a whopping 117 degrees Celsius. lol. Surprised my mobo didn't burn out by now. I wanted to evaluate the situation with the heat sink and decided to take it off. After taking it off I found extremely crusty purple compound on board the chipset and the heatsink. I took me FOREVER to scrape it off. it was almost like a cement which I found odd. After scraping and cleaning the surfaces with alcohol, I placed some silver compound on and proceeded to put it back on.
Well, upon hooking everything back up I was still at 95 to 103 degs. Now I started to really look at the options to replace this. I had SLI config which means I had to do something clever with the southbridge as well. A nice thermaltake chipset solution w/fan and a low profile copper southbridge with shipping was about 45 bucks. Hmm ... This is a sure fix from the threads I have read and its really kid of expensive to fix a simple defect. the problem is not necessarily with the heatsink not being sufficient. Its the combo of the compound used vs the amount of pressure applied between the heatsink and chipset. It was completely unacceptable. I knew this right away when I was watching the temp and then I would press on the top of the IOH heatsink and I would watch it drop another 15 degrees in less then 10 seconds. The springs are extremely weak and not effective at all in transferring the heat from the NB.
Here if my fix. Cost me less than a dollar at the hardware store and it works ideal thus far. Do this at your own risk. Doing this will probably void any warranty too. All my problems are solved and I am running at 57 degrees, YES, 57 degrees with the stock heatsink and no additional cooling.
For one scrape all that old crap off like I did. Apply your new compound. But when you go to replace your heatsink, use the following method. The trick is to use metal screws with a mobo washer, original springs from the plastic studs and a nylon locknut. Use screws that are the same diameter and length (maybe a tad bit longer) as the plastic retainer studs. Also grab a few of those red nylon mobo washers too, were gonna need them as well.
After scraping and applying compound, reassemble as follows. Screw with washer inserted into the back of the mobo so the threads are out front. The plastic/nylon washer is betweeen the screwhead and the back of the mobo as a insulator. Put the heatsink on. With the threads thru the heatsink already, put the springs on and start spinning on the locknut. I torqued the nut down on the spring until the spring almost became fully compressed. The purpose of the spring here is really to prevent you breaking something and at the same time using the max force of the spring since it weak to begin with. Thats why we need to compress it down pretty much all the way. There will be little to no room in the spring at this point. The heatsink at this point should be pretty solid to the board as well. I noticed with the plastic studs before the heatsink would wobble if you gave it a little rocking back and forth before. Not this time. Shouldn't move much if at all. Remember not to torque down too much. You don't want to go beyond the springs compression. Even if you did by accident, its better then not using a spring at all. If you feel that it starts to feel tight when torquing, you torqued too far. Stop an backup a 1/4 turn or so. It is also very important to make sure both torques are equal on both sides as well. Alternate sides when torquing down. I could tell by how much thread I had left on both sides and by looking for any uneven sides.
To summarize, the compound is a problem no doubt. After you resolve the compound issue, its all about the adequate pressure between the heatsink and the IOH. Much like the amount of pressure needed between your CPU and your heatsink give or take. And the pressure that would be as an aftermarket solution like the thermaltake chipset cooler. You dont see cheesy springs on that. Wake up MSI. Simpy using a more effective spring could save MSI some cash in the long run. I envision a leafsprin design like the thermaltake chipset one. The heatsink design could be better, sure, but the design itself is not the problem. Replace the heatsinks if you would like to, if your overclocking and stuff. Funny, this board I have is a refurb too and only had it for a few weeks. Figured they would have done something about it.
Sorry the pics are not the best. Here is about as close as I could get to the finished product

Doesnt boot Black/Blank screen when a cd-rom is connected - MSI x58 Platinum

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I've tried 2 pata drives and 1 sata drive all working/tested in other machines .. and it stops at the same exact spot every time right after the bios and before the Windows logo would normally pop up it will just sit on a black/blank screen forever. I have never heard of a issue like this where it wasnt the ide channel going bad or the drive itself but since a harddrive on the ide channel works i assume its good.
I didnt know if i should post this in the windows 7 64bit forum or this but im leaning towards motherboard as the issue because it still freezes at same exact spot even with no hard drives connected , so I couldnt boot anything from the dvd-drive. I'm also thinking its the mobo because i had it repaired a year ago, see my old thread here
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=127312.msg958264#msg958264
Any idea's or suggestion please let me know.

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I couldnt boot anything from the dvd-drive.
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MSI 975X PLATINUM POWER UP EDITION

today is january 23rd, 2010
i just bought the msi 975x platinum power up edition in new york, from a store that was going out of business, but i am having problems because this does not power on.
i am using brand new and tested functioning: thermaltake tr2 430w psu, intel core 2 duo 2.66GHz fsb 1066, and also tried a celeron d 2.66GHz fsb 533, 1x corsair 1gb stick 800 mhz, nvidia 7 series pci express vga card, connected to a test ctr monitor AOC 5en.
i connected the 24 pin atx main connector, the 8 pin connector that powers on the cpu and also the peripheral connector that powers the pci express, and all i got was the heatsink fan spinning, but nothing appears on my screen (all is black).
i hope somebody can help me, because now the store where i bought it has closed, and i dont know how to get a warranty from MSI since i dont understand their RMA policy.

Quote
if it is not sure that after updating bios the motherboard can use some more new cpu`s, then i think it would be a waste of time trying to do a bios upgrade.
I am not sure that I understood what you mean, but it is nothing unusual that an older board/chipset will not support the latest processor models. And this has nothing to do with the board manufacturer.
Quote
I only wanted to do that bios upgrade thinking it would be enough to avoid the karma of searching for those listed cpus
What is so hard about digging up a supported processor? I mean, all you have to do is to decide which model you want to get (an E6600 would be a great choice for this board) and then buy it. You will probably be able to get a great deal on a used one on E-Bay.
This is not a complicated situation.
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this is my first msi mobo!!!
... and it has nothing to do with this being an MSI Mainboard. The only problem is that it is an old mainboard/Chipset and that the latest 45nm processors are too different regarding their specifications to be properly supported.
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where can i get a copy of the driver cd utility of this mobo?
i would like to get a copy from the original cd
There was no driver cd included in the mainboard box which you can make a copy off?
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http://eu.msi.com/index.php?func=downloaddetail&type=driver&maincat_no=1&prod_no=267

Sata Seagate 1000GB ST1000333AS + MSI x58 Platinum issue

Hi guyz,
I write you because i have some problem with my sata harddisk..
-Intel [email protected]
-MSI x58 Platinum 3.4v AMI Bios (updated)
-Corsair 3x1GB @ 1440Mhz
-ATi HD4870 512MB
-Seagate 1000GB ST31000333AS (Firmware CC1H)
-Windows 7 Ultimate
-Enermax 600W (There is a table of DC amp dont know which one could be useful)
As you can see from the screenshots i have a big issue with transfer speed....I dont know which is the problem but here what i've done to try to fix it
1.I format it, switch it from IDE to AHCI and reinstall a new w7 ultimate edition (with XP same problem)
2.Switch from SATA pin to eSATA pin (dont know which are the differents), that's because w7 can't read AHCI in normal SATA pin
3.I've noticed that since i upgraded AMI Bios to 3.4v that problem happened
4.All driver like "Intel 3/4/5 Chipset Drivers" and "Intel Matrix Storage Manager Driver" are updated, but "JMicron JMB36x IDE Drivers" aren't installed
5.I've noticed that when i was in SATA pin, i switched to another pin and everything became normal with high transfer for something like 10 min and than wxp switch the sata back to PIO mode or DMA mode (dont remeber, anyway the slower mode)
6.My harddisk isn't affected by a bugged firmware
So what can i do to fix this really bad problem??
EDIT:
With Everest software i recognize this about UMDA:
Transfer mode active UDMA: UDMA 0 instead of UDMA 6 (ATA-133) and Transfer mode PIO: PIO 4
So UDMA 0 is the problem...so now what can i do?

Quote
Have i to reinstall the bios after that?
No, definately not.
There have been severe Firmware Issues with some Seagate Hard Drive. Check with Seagate if your hard drive is affected.

MSI X58 Platinum - power button after hibernate not working

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