MSI X58 Pro SLI not working - solved

Just wanted to post my experience of the last couple days here so that hopefully google and the other spiders will grab it in case other people have the same problem I was having.
I have an MSI X58 Pro, and was running a single GeForce 8800GT for a long time. I grabbed a second one on ebay thinking an SLI setup it would be a snap to install. I came to find out that the bios version on my motherboard supported Cross Fire out of the box, but no SLI support. When I had the MSI website do an automatic scan, it came back that the most up to date bios version for my board was 7.xx, but the version that supported SLI was 8.xx. I was close to throwing in the towel, but found some threads here pointing to the download and use of the MSIHQ USB Bootable Tool and BIOS helper. I manually downloaded the v 8.E bios update, had the tool create a bootable usb thumb drive, updated the bios without any drama and bingo, SLI is now working on my machine.
Big props and my thanks to the guys who made this tool, I owe you a cold one!

Thank you very much for the glowing post. Yes, we are very proud of the Forum Flasher and have been trying to get MSI to officially adopt it as well.

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MSI X58 Pro with Matrox M9120 PCIe x16, no signal on LCD

I have a Matrox M9120 PCIe x16 attached to EIZO ColorEdge CG19.
In recent days, when I turn on my computer, the CG19 is blank and shows no signal.
I try to replace a new power cord and signal wire, but in vain.
Strangely, after I reset or turn on/off the computer several times, the problem is solved.
I return my CG19 to EIZO for test, they say CG19 is ok.
I try to plug M9120 to another PCIe slot on MSI X58 Pro, the problem is the same.
I try to plug M9120 to Intel D975XBX2, M9120 works well.
I try to plug an ATI card to both PCIe slots on MSI X58 Pro, ATI card works well.
Any suggestion for me?
Thank you!

QuadCore Intel Core i7 920, 2666 MHz (20 x 133)
MSI X58 Pro SLI (MS-7522)
66-2776-009999-00101111-012209-TYLSBURG$A7522800_A7522IMS V8.0 012209
OCZ Gold XTC OCZ3G1600LV2G
2 GB (2 ranks, 8 banks)*3 Triple Channel
Matrox M9120 PCIe x16 512MB
Seagate 250GB SATAII--ST3250620AS (9QE05NB6)
Seagate 250GB SATAIIST3250620AS (9QE05NG5)
WDC WD1500HLFS-01G6U0 (WD-WXLY08094302)
Seagate 1TB SATAIIST31000523AS (5VP0142F)
Seagate 1TB SATAIIST31000523AS (5VP02AYS)
No other peripheral cards and devices
Microsoft Windows Vista Ultimate
Multiprocessor Free (32-bit)
6.0.6001 (Vista Retail)
Service Pack 1
Be Quiet! Dark Power Pro 650W

MSI X58 Pro: HDD LED does not work for S-ATA drive

Hi,
I've got a problem with my brand new MSI X58 Pro: I've got an S-ATA HDD (Samsung 640GB) and an S-ATA DVD drive (Pioneer) installed in a Compucase 6X Miditower. There is NO(!) IDE drive. I don't get the HDD LED to work! I've tried everything including a BIOS update to 7.1 - the LED stays out.
I found some reports in the internet from people having a similar problem: no HDD LED for S-ATA drive activity.
Is there anybody else having this problem? Isn't that possible in general? Is that a problem of the board? The HDD drive?
Greetings,
Michael

You are talking about the status LED on your case, right?
- Is it properly connected to the right pins on the correct header?
- Double-check for +/- pins and make sure the plug is not connected the wrong way.
- Make sure, the LED is not defective.
- Make sure the cables are not defective.
- Make sure there is no problem with the pin-plug to the board.

MSI x58 Pro and Quad SLI

OK I am new to this forum first off. So hey! lol. Now maybe this has been discussed.... well im sure it might have been but I thought I would get a direct answer from somebody. I have the Msi x58 Pro mobo and I planning to run QUAD SLI with GTX 295's. Now my BIOS version is the oldest.... I think 7.0 which doesnt support SLI right? and I have read that MSI motherboards now supports SLI. WIll this configuration work and should I update my BIOS to the most current version??

Yes, update with the 8 series bios. That will enable SLI. Please, be sure to use the forum USB Flash Tool for the bios update.

Help msi x58 pro e raid 0 my hardisk not detected

msi x58 pro e
intel i950 3.06g
kingston memory 3x2gig
video card xfx ati hd 5830
2x 500gig wd hardisk
my problem is when i set it up using raid o..my motherboard cant detect my hardisk...after i go to raid 0 set up then exit to install windows 7..my board woudnt detect the hardrive

Did you use the instructions in the manual to set up the Raid?

Problem with MSI X58 Platinum SLI - IOH temperature !

Hi guys.
I have this PC configuration:
- MSI X58 Platinum SLI ( Bios Version 3.8 - http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/6707/161020101249.jpg )
- Intel Core i7 930 2.80 GHz box ( with Intel Turbo Boost running sometimes at 3.06 Ghz )
- MSI GeForce GT240 1GB DDR5 128-bit HDMI
- Corsair 6GB DDR3 1333MHz CL9 XMS3 Triple Channel Kit ( sets to AUTO and running at 1066 Mhz )
- Corsair CMPSU-750TXEU
- Ordinary case ( http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/4200/161020101246.jpg & http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/8480/161020101247.jpg ).
- Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit.
I bought my PC components 2 months ago, so they are new.
Now, guys I think that is a problem with my motherboard. When I turn on the computer in Bios I have this temps: CPU – 30 C (86 F); IOH – 71 C (159 F); System 30 C (86 F) - http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/394/161020101242.jpg. After 2 minutes the temperatures are: CPU – 34 C (93 F); IOH – 82 C (179 F); System 41 C (105 F) and 2 more minutes later the temperatures are: CPU – 34 C (93 F); IOH – 84 C (183 F); System 43 C (109 F). After 30 minutes of doing nothing I have this temps: CPU – 35 C (95 F); IOH – 85 C (185 F); System 42 C (107 F) -
Guys it is normal with IOH temperature ? I am a little worried about it ( to be honest I am more than “a little” … I am worried a lot ).
Ok, I know I don’t have a good case but in 3 weeks I should receive this Thermaltake Spedo Advance Case (http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?C=1121&ID=1829) and I will buy a new CPU cooler ( I don’t know yet wich one – maybe Corsair CWCH70 or Noctua NH-D14 but I have to see the case first … to be sure there is a plenty of space for those coolers ).
Pls help me with that IOH temperature. It is normal ? What if I intend to make a little OC ( lets say CPU to 3652 Mhz and RAM to 1333 Mhz … but also I will ask for your support ! ) my motherboard will burn ?
If it is necessary I will contact my retailer and send him back the motherboard but … I like MSI a lot.
Thx guys for your support !

Hey guys,
Here is a nice cheap alternative.
Here is my story about the same issue. I found it after looking at why my computer freezes sometimes. Not very often but enough for me to do some investigation. I noticed my IOH temp was a whopping 117 degrees Celsius. lol. Surprised my mobo didn't burn out by now. I wanted to evaluate the situation with the heat sink and decided to take it off. After taking it off I found extremely crusty purple compound on board the chipset and the heatsink. I took me FOREVER to scrape it off. it was almost like a cement which I found odd. After scraping and cleaning the surfaces with alcohol, I placed some silver compound on and proceeded to put it back on.
Well, upon hooking everything back up I was still at 95 to 103 degs. Now I started to really look at the options to replace this. I had SLI config which means I had to do something clever with the southbridge as well. A nice thermaltake chipset solution w/fan and a low profile copper southbridge with shipping was about 45 bucks. Hmm ... This is a sure fix from the threads I have read and its really kid of expensive to fix a simple defect. the problem is not necessarily with the heatsink not being sufficient. Its the combo of the compound used vs the amount of pressure applied between the heatsink and chipset. It was completely unacceptable. I knew this right away when I was watching the temp and then I would press on the top of the IOH heatsink and I would watch it drop another 15 degrees in less then 10 seconds. The springs are extremely weak and not effective at all in transferring the heat from the NB.
Here if my fix. Cost me less than a dollar at the hardware store and it works ideal thus far. Do this at your own risk. Doing this will probably void any warranty too. All my problems are solved and I am running at 57 degrees, YES, 57 degrees with the stock heatsink and no additional cooling.
For one scrape all that old crap off like I did. Apply your new compound. But when you go to replace your heatsink, use the following method. The trick is to use metal screws with a mobo washer, original springs from the plastic studs and a nylon locknut. Use screws that are the same diameter and length (maybe a tad bit longer) as the plastic retainer studs. Also grab a few of those red nylon mobo washers too, were gonna need them as well.
After scraping and applying compound, reassemble as follows. Screw with washer inserted into the back of the mobo so the threads are out front. The plastic/nylon washer is betweeen the screwhead and the back of the mobo as a insulator. Put the heatsink on. With the threads thru the heatsink already, put the springs on and start spinning on the locknut. I torqued the nut down on the spring until the spring almost became fully compressed. The purpose of the spring here is really to prevent you breaking something and at the same time using the max force of the spring since it weak to begin with. Thats why we need to compress it down pretty much all the way. There will be little to no room in the spring at this point. The heatsink at this point should be pretty solid to the board as well. I noticed with the plastic studs before the heatsink would wobble if you gave it a little rocking back and forth before. Not this time. Shouldn't move much if at all. Remember not to torque down too much. You don't want to go beyond the springs compression. Even if you did by accident, its better then not using a spring at all. If you feel that it starts to feel tight when torquing, you torqued too far. Stop an backup a 1/4 turn or so. It is also very important to make sure both torques are equal on both sides as well. Alternate sides when torquing down. I could tell by how much thread I had left on both sides and by looking for any uneven sides.
To summarize, the compound is a problem no doubt. After you resolve the compound issue, its all about the adequate pressure between the heatsink and the IOH. Much like the amount of pressure needed between your CPU and your heatsink give or take. And the pressure that would be as an aftermarket solution like the thermaltake chipset cooler. You dont see cheesy springs on that. Wake up MSI. Simpy using a more effective spring could save MSI some cash in the long run. I envision a leafsprin design like the thermaltake chipset one. The heatsink design could be better, sure, but the design itself is not the problem. Replace the heatsinks if you would like to, if your overclocking and stuff. Funny, this board I have is a refurb too and only had it for a few weeks. Figured they would have done something about it.
Sorry the pics are not the best. Here is about as close as I could get to the finished product

Building new system, MSI X58 Pro-E, i7 920, GTX 295, 6gb, Thermalright e-120

Hello, I was hoping for some advice on this rig, to overclock or not, etc; Im a bug gamer, so its really about gaming to the max 1st,
Heres the brand new parts;
MSI X58 Pro-E (In the box, just arrived, do not know bios yet)
i7 920
Patriot Extreme Viper PVT36G1600ELK 6GB DDR3 9-9-9-24
eVGA GTX295 1792mb CO-OP edition
Thermalright extreme e-120 cpu cooler (Jesus that thing is huge)
Im going to re-use this stuff:
2x500gb seagate HDD sata raid 0 for performance
Antec 900 case Lots of fans...nice
DVD RW
Corsair TX750W Says 60A on a single +12v rail (I think its good, only @ a year or so old)
SB X-FI Fatality gamer sound card
So, basically should I look to OC this setup a bit? maybe to like 3 GHz or so? If so, whats the "safest" method to OC? I have an excellent cpu cooler and a case that has a ton of fans in it so hopefully I should be good for cooling.
Do I just OC the CPU? Will the memory run at its top speeds with this chip? or do I need to do something for the memory also, I recally for some reason on my current PC with a 780i SLI evga mobo I had to set the ram timins manually, they were never picked up properly on "auto", will I have that also on the MSI board?
I hope Ive provided enough information to get started.
Thank you for any help!
Oh, I plan to build this baby the following weekend as I am working the next 2 weeks straight...meh

Quote from: Rebel230 on 08-July-09, 08:29:48
So, basically should I look to OC this setup a bit? maybe to like 3 GHz or so?
Yes, why not?
Do not be aiming for 3 GHz, you can run that on stock voltage. 4 GHz is more within the grasp of the TRUE 120.
Quote from: Rebel230 on 08-July-09, 08:29:48
If so, whats the "safest" method to OC? I have an excellent cpu cooler and a case that has a ton of fans in it so hopefully I should be good for cooling.
There's only one way to overclock - overclock... There is no safe way of doing it...
Quote from: Rebel230 on 08-July-09, 08:29:48
Do I just OC the CPU? Will the memory run at its top speeds with this chip? or do I need to do something for the memory also,
The only way you can overclock a CPU without overclocking anything else is with an extreme edition CPU. (The i7 965, for example.) It's overclocked by raising the CPU multiplier, not the baseclock frequency.
With regular CPUs, you overclock the baseclock, which overclocks the CPU core, CPU uncore, memory, and QPI frequency.
Quote from: Rebel230 on 08-July-09, 08:29:48
I recally for some reason on my current PC with a 780i SLI evga mobo I had to set the ram timins manually, they were never picked up properly on "auto", will I have that also on the MSI board?
Extremely doubtful.
I hope I've answered your questions. I can be more thorough if you wish to know more. Of course, Google can tell you more than I ever could.

MSI X58 Pro - Latest Chipset Driver

Hi,
Off and on I get an ATAPI error on Windows 7 x64. I'm running a i7 920 on my MSI X58 Pro (NOT the Pro E version).
The symptoms are simple, booting into Windows load screen I get my hard drive light lit up non stop and nothing loads. I'm not sure if its trashing as I'm using an SSD. I've run HD Tune to test all my drives are they have reported them to be fine.
I'll like to update the chipset drivers as a step to solve my problem
The one on the official page shows:
Intel 3/4/5 Chipset Drivers Ver: 9.1.2.1008
Release Date: 2010-07-30
http://www.msi.com/product/mb/X58-Pro.html#/?div=Driver&os=All
This is the one I am using now.
I went to Intel's website and found an more updated one:
Intel® Chipset Device Software (INF Update Utility) Ver: 9.3.0.1019
Release Date: 2011-11-27
http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?agr=Y&ProdId=3061&DwnldID=20775&ProductFamily=Chipsets&ProductLine=Desktop+Chipsets&ProductProduct=Intel%C2%AE+X58+Express+Chipset&lang=eng
My question is simple: Should I update my drivers to the one on the Intel site or stick with MSI's one?
Also note that the MSI Pro has been discontinued and I'm not sure if the Pro x58 product page is updated.

If the updates didn't help, to further assist with troubleshooting, a list of all your systems components will be needed. Don't forget to give details of the RAM & the PSU, especially the amps on the +12V rail(s).
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=38822.0

What type RAM chips for my motherboard MSI X58 Pro-E

Hello,
I have a motherboard MSI X58 Pro-E Processor I7 960, I would like to buy 16 GB of memory, I just do not understand anything type of memory.
Can you tell me what kind of memory is compatible with my motherboard
I need some Extremely fast memory
http://www.msi.com/product/mb/X58-Pro-E.html#?div=Manual
Excuse me if I speak wrong, because I'm French.
Thank you in advance, cordially.

The memory controller is inside the processor and natively suppoert DDR3-800 and DDR3-1066 memory modules (non(!)-ECC). Anything faster than DDR3-1066 may work but there is a chance that you will be running into stability problems, especially with four modules installed.

MOVED: MSI X58 eclipse SLI CPU throttling problem

This topic has been moved to Overclockers & Modding Corner.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=128074.0

Quote from: goofazoid on 03-October-09, 15:03:29
If you turn EIST off you should be able to put the multiplier to a specific number between 12 and 21 (or higher if you have an unlocked Extreme CPU) and that is where it will stay.
I believe that is exactly what i did, i disabled EIST, C1E and set multiplier to 21, however, when i run a stability test(Prime95 or Linx) it always drops the multiplier down from 21x to 20x.
It seems to me turbo mode is still working when it is supposed to be disabled when you set multiplier to 21(or maybe it is just simply won't allow x21 multiplier to be used at full load anyway, turbo mode on or off).
Quote
Very good point Jack. There you go ravescar & others, give that a try & see if it makes a difference. smile
I experimented a bit with Overspeed Protection enabled and disabled, however i did not notice any difference in this regard, the multiplier still drops to 20 on high load for me.
However this problem do not happen if i set multiplier to 20, it is only the 21 multiplier that have this issue.
This is on a MSI X58 Eclipse SLI Motherboard + i7 920 D0 stepping + 6gb GSKILL Trident 16000 CL9 RAM.
Quote
BTW. I've read of a couple of cases where DO stepping 920's getting 22x with Turbo enabled but I'll remain skeptical regarding the validity.
Maybe it is just earlier version of cpu-z mis-reporting multiplier?

Unable to boot with MSI X58 PRO-E and OCZ3P1333LV6GK

Hi,
This is my first post in this forum.
I've had this system for about 6 months, and from time to time I kept having instant reboots and once the PC would never start, I think I've sorted that by first flashing an old MB BIOS and then the most recent.
Tree days ago I've had another instant reboot, but now the system stops/reboots when the coloured animation starts to appear above the "Loading windows" message. This happens with both Win7 32 & 64 bits and even with the windows 7 installation DVD !!!
I think I've tried all combinations of the other posts where the MB+memory was the same as mine.
Another strange issue is: the memory PN shown inside the BIOS (OCZ3G1333LV2G) is different from the label on the memory (OCZ3G1333LV6GK)!!
I've already tested with only one memory chip at a time, the result is still the same.
I've only got connected the following: Video board, 1 RAM chip, USB Keyboard & one SATA HD. No over clocking whatsoever !
What else do I need to do to finally boot to windows ?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Paulo
My System:
Mobo: MSI X58 Pro-E, model MS-7522, version 3.1
BIOS: 8.B
CPU: Intel i7 920
RAM: OCZ3G1333LV6GK (6GB)
Video: Sapphire Vapor-X ATI RAdeon HD 4870 2GB
PSU: Combat Power CP 750W
OS: Windows 7 32 & 64 bits

Hi Henry,
Thanks for the help.
"What are your RAM timings? Screenshot of CPU-Z Memory tab and SPD tab."
I've added a few screenshots of the memory, the SPD & CPU-Z tab, plus a MEM86 test with only on memory stick installed. It appears that the memory is OK... or not ?
"Do you have another video card you can try? Those Sapphire Vapor-X cards have been a problem for others in the past."
I wasn't aware of any problems with this video card, I use it mainly to send movies to my big LCD TV through the HDMI port. I don't have access to another video card, sorry...
I don't know what else to do, do you think it's the PSU ?
Regards,
Paulo
--I made it so your images show and are clickable
--Mike

The sound on my macbook pro is not working

The sound on my macbook pro is not working. When I increase the sound, the icon appears as if everything is working, but no sound comes from the speakers. Earphones don't work either. I have tried a PRAM reset but at times, this doesn't even work. It's really frustrating having to restart my computer every time I want the sound to work, and even when I do that, theres a 50 50 chance of it working again. It generally happens after my laptop goes to sleep and I wake it up. Has anyone else had this problem and fixed it or even know what caused it?
There are a lot of discussions around the earphone jack but I have checked that. I've tried a PRAM reset which hasn't worked, and my sound output is set to Internal speakers.
HELP!!

Hopefully one of these steps should solve the problem.
1. System Preference > Sound > Output > Internal Speakers
    Highlight Internal Speakers / Headphones
    Make sure Mute is not enabled.
2. Remove the headphone.
    If you see red light in the headphone port, plug the headphone
    in and out of the port 5 or 6 times to flip the microswitch inside.
    Sound output may be stuck in the digital mode.
3. Reset SMC.     http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
    Choose the method for:
    "Resetting SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own".
4. Applications > Utilities > Audio MIDI Setup
    Audio Devices window
    Side Bar
    Click the Built-in Output.
    Under Mute any of the boxes checked? If so, uncheck it.

Output volume on my MacBook Pro is not working

My output volume on my MacBook Pro is not working. When I go to "Settings", then "Sounds", then "Output", I can not slide the volume bar at all, or change it in the menu bar?

See if a PRAM reset will solve the problem;
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1895
Ciao.

Macbook pro is not working with Canon pixma iP1500, but has previously. The printer works with an old PC without trouble. "printer is offline" message when this printer is plugged into macbook. Any clues to get it to work?

Macbook pro is not working with Canon pixma iP1500 but has previously. Printer works with an old PC but macbook shows "printer is offline". Any clues?

Hello Betty7,
Please let me take a moment to say "Welcome" to the HP Forums.
I hope you enjoy your experience!
I see that you are having an issue with getting the printer reinstalled.
I suggest that we start off by running the HP Print and Scan Doctor. If the Doctor fails, please let me know where it fails as well as any error codes it may generate.
Thank you for your time.
Click the “Kudos Thumbs Up" at the bottom of this post to say “Thanks” for helping!
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
W a t e r b o y 71
I work on behalf of HP

X58 Pro will not install Vista/7

Specs:
Mobo: MSI X58 Pro MS-7522
CPU: Core i7 920
RAM: Corsair TR3X3G1333C9 Triple-Channel DDR3 1.5v 9-9-9-24
PSU: Thermaltake PurePower 500W +12V-14A and +12V-15A
OS Installed: Vista Ultimate 32-bit
Primary HDD: Seagate 750GB 7200 RPM
Secondary HDD: Seagate 200GB 7200RPM
History: Original BIOS always gave me a delayed POST issue. Fan spins at full speed for 15 seconds before POST'ing. If running for 15+ hours, a restart will cause the fan to just spin at full speed and NEVER POST unless I turn the computer off, reset the mobo, wait about 20 minutes and then boot it and it will do the 15 second thing. I just got used to this and dealt with it.
Finally I updated the BIOS to 8.6 when it was the current version and that delayed POST problem was history! Then other things happened. "Host process sevice" would stop working and force a 1minute scheduled shutdown that I would have to terminate by typing 'shutdown /a' in the shell.
Recent events made me decide it was time to just wipe it and move on to Windows 7. I already have it on laptop (i'm on right now), so I'm using the same disc to put it on this desktop. I have tried a Retail Vista disc and this Retail Win7 disc and both of them yield the same result: I boot to CD, it loads the prep files and just when you think the installation program is going to begin, the monitor goes to standby and the computer just runs doing nothing. It simply keeps running without anything happening.
I went back into windows and wiped my alternate HDD and decided to try just installing the new OS to this alternate disc. I wiped it in Disk Management, turned off the computer, disconnected the primary HDD so that only the one I wish to interact with is available. Same result, install hangs just after prep
Assuming the only thing that's now possibly affectin gthis is either the BIOS or the RAM. I flashed the BIOS with the newest version, 8.8. Same result, I flashed again with 8.7; same result. I decided maybe I need to go back to what I had when I installed it the first time, so I flashed it with 8.1 which is just a tiny bit more recent. Guess what, the delayed POST with the full-speed fan issue came right back, but the install gave me same result. I'm usually pretty good about things like this, but I really can't figure out where to go from here> Someone please give me a little insight, I really appreciate it.

My Video card is an ATI Radeon X1900XT PCI-E card that I've never had issues with in the past.
I am running the 64-bit Win7 disc right now....fingers crossed....(only 1stick of RAM currently installed)......fail :(
EDIT:: OH MY GOODNES!!!!!!!!
Okay, so thank you for mentioning the video card because I would have continuted pulling my hair out. The fix? drumroll please.......The prep showed in one monitor but when the program actually got to the "install now" page it was sending it to the 2nd monitor which I only turn on when I'm doing web work.
Removed 2nd monitor from equation, rebooted and the install is running. Wow I feel so dumb right now.

MSI X58 Pro SLI not working - solved

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