MSI X99S Xpower AC Cycles on and Off

My rig has been stable for the past month (please refer to footer for components) and today it started to just cycle on and off in approximately 5 -10 second intervals. I downloaded and updated my bios 30 days ago, and it has been very stable. I also verified the BIOS settings today to make sure they were OK. However, today it just started to cycle on and off. When this occurs, the power supply is also powering on and off which may be the culprit. Could the power supply be going into hibernation with the CPU I have? Not sure how if it has been working fine. I also do not overclock at this time. Any suggestions on what to try?

Not sure how concerned I should be, however, yesterday when I was going to perform the tasks posted by pandaz, as well as perform the paper clip test on the power supply (this verifies the integrity of the power supply by taking the MOBO out of the equation), the issue did not reoccur from the previous day (it was off all night, but still plugged in). The first time this happened (shortly after building my rig about two months ago), simply clearing the CMOS took care of the issue (in review of my notes), and this time, clearing the CMOS did not, however, letting it sit overnight did. Do I have an issue I need to be concerned about? My legacy XPower Big Bang never had any issues after setting it up a few years ago. Thoughts?

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MSI X99S XPOWER won't boot after a Windows 8.1 Update

Hi all, two days ago I was using my PC as normally and Windows needed to restart because of an update from Windows Update. It restarted and won't be able to boot again. I get a 04 debug code (Power on South Bridge Initialization) and I've tried clearing CMOS, without SSD/HDD... and there is no way.
I'm reading something about an Intel drivers update that can modify the firmware, do you know anything about it?
Board: MSI X99S XPOWER
Bios: Version 1.4
VGA: MATRIX GTX 780Ti
PSU: Enermax Platimax 850W
Intel Core i7 5820K
MEM: G.Skill 32GB in 4 sticks (8 GB each) @2400 MHz XMP
HDD: OCZ Vertex 450 256GB
COOLER: Akasa Venom Vodoo
OC: 4 GHz 1.15v
OS: Windows 8.1 x64
Thanks

Windows is not corrupted, I've tried that SSD on another computer without problems and in my computer without HDD/SSD and won't boot anyway.
If I'm able to boot with the secondary BIOS, I'll recover the first one by the following steps:
Quote
BIOS recovery with AFUDOS command
When BIOS updating fails or causes the computer non-bootable, you can recover the
failed BIOS by the steps below.
Preparation:
1. Prepare a bootable USB flash drive.
2. Download the latest BIOS file from the MSI official website at www.msi.com, and
then decompress the file.
3. Copy the AFUDE238.exe and the BIOS file to the bootable USB flash drive
BIOS recovery steps:
1. Power off the computer.
2. Set the Multi-BIOS switch to the functional BIOS ROM.
3. Insert the bootable USB flash drive you have made to the USB port.
4. Boot the computer into the bootable USB flash drive.
5. Set the Multi-BIOS switch to the failed BIOS ROM.
6. Execute the below command to flash the BIOS:
For example: AFUDE238 EXXXXIMS.XXX
7. Restart the computer after the BIOS flashing is complete.
Important
Do not use the Multi-BIOS switch when system is booting up.
But I have a doubt with the "Important" note because I need to change from safe BIOS to failed BIOS with the PC booted, right? So I'll use the Multi-BIOS switch with the system up...
Thanks a lot

MSI x99s xpower ac boot issue

Hello,
I am having a problem with cold boot. After shouting down my computer, it cannot start when I press power button.
Sometimes after shouting down fans were still rotating until I turned off power supply.
I was trying to turn on PC without all RAM, without all USB devices, without SDD, and without graphic cards, and it still
couldn't start.
The only way to start my PC is to trying turn it on many times and using Discharge button (also many times).
If it turns on it works good. I can use PC without problems, but if I shout it down, it won't start again, and I have to
make this crazy launching process again.
I do not know what is happening, but I expected more from such expensive hardware...
All components are new (about two weeks).
Board: MSI X99S XPOWER
Bios: Version 1.7
VGA: 2x Asus GTX 980 DC2 OC Strix 4GB GDDR5 (256 Bit) DVI
PSU: Be Quiet! Dark Power PRO 10 850W 80PLUS Platinum, 10.4 dB, 4/1 (OCK) (BN203)
Processor: Intel Core i7-5930K, socket 2011-3, 64bit, 3.5GHz, 140W
MEM: Kingston DDR4 3000 4x8GB C15
HDD: SSD Samsung SSD 850 EVO 1TB SATA3 2,5"
COOLER: CPU Noctua NH-D15 - 165mm, 1320, 24.6 dBA
OC: no
OS: Windows 8.1 64bit Professional

Hi again. Yesterday I took my brother PC and used his Power Supply - Corsair TX750.
So with his PSU, and mine motherboard PC was starting everytime without problems.
But when I used another motherboard and mine new PSU it also starts everytime.
So looks like PSU: Be Quiet! Dark Power PRO 10 850W and MSI x99s xpower are not compatible.
The problem with Dark Power PRO 10 is that when it starts, I can hear switch inside it.
When I start PC with normal PSU, i press power button and it starts, but when I start with Be Quiet! I press power button, then I can hear switch inside PSU
and then in starts. So the problem is that, when I press power button with MSI x99s and Be Quiet! Dark Power, i cannot hear this switch.
I have no idea what I have do to now
PS:
This switching inside PSU you can hear on this movie at 8:32.

An OC Newbie Try to Break the World Record by Using MSI X99S XPOWER AC

Saw an article on MSI forum and thought it’s quite interested, so here I translate it. Don’t really have the time to translate it word by word, so go check here for the original article if you are interested (but you need to speak Chinese, lol…..).
link: forum-tc.msi.com/index.php?topic=113081.0
Long story short, a newbie got inspired by MSI MOA 2014
and started to dig in the OC world. After checking all the rules, he decided to try it on his own. Here’s the gear he used:
CPU: Intel i7-5960X 3.0G (8C16T)
RAM: HyperX Predator DDR4-3000 16GB Kit (4x4GB) CL15
MB: MSI X99S XPOWER AC
VGA: MSI GTX980 GAMING 4G x4
SSD: Plextor M6 Pro 256GB
Power: Cooler Master M2 1500W x2
CPU Cooler: SilverStone TD03
OS: Win 7 64bit SP1
MB
Easy button design and 3 sets of v-check point made it more user friendly for Ocer
Special extreme OC kit (contain with thumb drive, OC fan stand, Delid Die Guard and OC Backplate. Personally think it’s 4 handy tools especially for Ocer)
VGA
Here’s the pic. after assembling all the gear together
This newbie is using air cooling VGA & RAM + water cooling CPU to run 4 way SLI, below is the static under normal usage without OC.
3DMARK - FIRE STRIKE Extreme
3DMARK - FIRE STRIKE ULTRA
Then, he try to use OC Genie buttom push the CPU to Gear 2, CPU 3.7G, RAM 2400, below is the static under this circumstances.
3DMARK - FIRE STRIKE ULTRA
He did mention that overheating would be a major problem of 4 way SLI, water cooling should be a better solution instead of air cooling.
Anyways, after few times of trial, here comes the best combination he can get.
CPU
CPU Frequency: 4.6GHz
DRAM Frequency: 3,200MHz
VGA
GPU Frequency: 1,390MHz
DRAM Frequency: 1,803MHz
3DMARK - FIRE STRIKE Extreme
3DMARK - FIRE STRIKE ULTRA
He upload this onto the HWBOT and found that he ranks 29th place on Fire Strike Extreme and 6th place on Fire Strike Ultra. Looks good!
Link: hwbot.org/submission/2690492_ocbot_3dmark___fire_strike_extreme_4x_geforce_gtx_980_19149_marks
link: hwbot.org/submission/2690575_ocbot_3dmark___fire_strike_ultra_4x_geforce_gtx_980_11338_marks
To better show you the effect of using 4 VGA instead of 1, he used Assassin’s Creed Unity and did some comparison as below.
Single MSI GTX980 GAMING 4G: FPS will between 3X-4X, 50 at some points.
If using MSI GTX980 GAMING 4G * 4 without OC, FPS will between 50 – 70, same as what we heard, the improvement is not as much as we thought.
But when it’s under the loading process, it shows 7XX FPS
All in all, here’s his conclusion:
Under OC mode, MSI XPOWER AC’s stability does meet his expectation, and he’s satisfied with the extreme OC kit. “Memory Try It!” function in BIOS make it easier to adjust.
Oh well, it seems like it’s a good product to be expect!

Quote from: WSGRT on 23-January-15, 13:22:33
this newbie start with the most powerful rig!!! Btw, thanks for translation
Personally think it's quite impressive for a newbie to get such a great score.
And sure he choose a great product to start with!

MSI X99S XPower AC LGA 2011-v3 M.2 SSD Question

I am planning on purchasing the MSI X99S XPower AC LGA 2011-v3 mobo, using the Haswell Intel® Core™ i7-5820K Processor. I have two questions:
1.) I am going to purchase a crucial 512GB SSD. My question is should I purchase the:
- Crucial M550 512GB SATA M.2 Type 2280 Internal Solid State Drive CT512M550SSD4, or
- Crucial M550 512GB SATA 2.5" 7mm (with 9.5mm adapter) Internal Solid State Drive CT512M550SSD1
If I understand this correctly, the first option (M.2) should be noticeable faster?
2.) Any recommendations on Crucial DDR4 memory? I am going to start with 16 GB, so should I get one stick of 16, or 8GBx2? I believe there are 8 slots, and if so, do I need to fill them in groups of two, or does this not matter? Any recommendation for which ones to use to get my 16?
Thanks! I need to bust out the wallet tomorrow to build my new system.

Quote
1.) I am going to purchase a crucial 512GB SSD. My question is should I purchase the:
- Crucial M550 512GB SATA M.2 Type 2280 Internal Solid State Drive CT512M550SSD4, or
- Crucial M550 512GB SATA 2.5" 7mm (with 9.5mm adapter) Internal Solid State Drive CT512M550SSD1
If I understand this correctly, the first option (M.2) should be noticeable faster?
The only difference between the both is the M.2 or SATA 2.5" format. Both are using an SATA interface. The M550 in M.2 format can't utilize the extra bandwith of M.2 as it's controler controler is just SATA. So what you will choose is just up to your format preference.
Quote
2.) Any recommendations on Crucial DDR4 memory? I am going to start with 16 GB, so should I get one stick of 16, or 8GBx2? I believe there are 8 slots, and if so, do I need to fill them in groups of two, or does this not matter? Any recommendation for which ones to use to get my 16?
LGA 2011-v3 is a quad channel platform so get a 4x4 GB kit. Single (one stick) or dual (two sticks) channel will slow system performance.

Time Capsule HDD keeps cycling on and off while my Mac is sleeping

Hi guys, I'm in a bit of a hurry so just gonna post dot points:
• My Time Capsule's HDD keeps cycling on and off continuously and potentially doing heaps of damage to it's drive when my MacBook is sleeping.
• Time Machine is set to automatically backup to my time capsule.
• As soon as I wake up and log into my MacBook it seems to stop. I checked the time capsule icon immediately and it says "Preparing backup" so I assume it was stuck in that phrase.
• I assume it backs up normally after waking up
MacBook Pro Retina:
• I usually never put my MacBook to sleep by closing the screen, so can't say if this happens when it's in closed screen sleep vs open screened sleep
• I'm not sure if there's any difference between close screen sleep and open screen sleep
• It is set to go to sleep automatically after 45mins of inactivity
• My iTunes Library is stored off-device on a 2TB HDD connected to the Time Capsule
Cheers,
Tony

How old is the TC and on what firmware?
You have put Mountain Lion for OS.. is that still the case or upgraded to Mavericks??
There has been some issues at various times with disk spinning up ..
This thread might give you some clues.
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4148904?start=0&tstart=0
Is the computer set to power nap? Try turning that off.
Try unplugging the external drive with itunes library and see if that helps.
If it is TM the attempts to start the backup should be in the log.
See A1 pondini troubleshooting.
http://pondini.org/TM/Troubleshooting.html
Power nap.. try unplugging the laptop from power.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht5394

Fans Constantly Cycling On and Off

About a week ago the fans on my dual 2.0 G5 running 10.4.8 started cycling on and off. After a few days of this I ran AHT and received the following error:
Error Code 2STH/1/2:CPUA AD7417 AD1.
I found out this was a possible problem with the logic board and immediately took it in to the local Apple authorised repair center. They tested it and found a Thermometer failure on CPUA AD7417. They removed both processors, reset the logic board,reinstalled the processors, and completed calibration. After which they ran ADT test and Apple G5 Service test disk twice. According to them the G5 passed all the tests and had no problems.
After I got home and set it back up the fans started cycling on and off just as they did before I took it in for repairs–they cycle on and off regardless of the ambient temperature or the amount of work the processors are performing. I ran AHT's extended test which it passed with no problems.
What's going on? Did they mess up when they were doing the calibration? Am I going to have the same problems that prompted me to take it in for repairs to begin with? Is there a serious hardware problem that they failed to discover?
The service was poor, and they even managed to scratch the **** out of the side of my G5, so I don't really want to take it back to them again. Unfortunately the closest Apple Store is about 4 hours away and my G5 is no longer under warranty.
Any suggestions about what's causing the problem and what I should do would be really appreciated. Thanks.

Blinn–
Nope, I hadn't installed a software update. It just came out of nowhere. If you haven't done so, I reccommend running AHT to see what it shows. Hopefully you're just having a software problem.
DaddyPaycheck–
Thanks. That clears it up. I am definitely going to call Apple. I am really fuming about the lack of service I've had from the "Authorised Repair Center."
UPDATE
It just keeps getting worse. Now the G5's fans are really revving up and it is putting itself to sleep with increasing frequency. I just got off the phone with the guy who "repaired" it. The reason that AHT is showing the same error code, but on processor B is because when he reinstalled the processors after resetting the logic board he switched them. According to him, this error shows that it is a problem with processor B, which will need to be replaced. It's going to cost $581 for the CPU–no charge for labour since I've already paid to have it fixed once even though it wasn't!–but I don't think I want anyone at that shop working on it again.
Has anyone else replaced a CPU in a dual 2.0 G5? How much did it cost you? Is this something that I could do myself?
I think that before I do anything else I'm going to take DaddyPaycheck's advice and call Apple. At least then Apple will know that this authorised repair center is doing a terrible job!

Phone cycles on and off. I have restored and so has the apple store.

I had a screen sensitivity issue with my original 4s. It would react to my finger getting within about 1/4 inch of the screen, and would auto dial without anyone touching the screen. Fortunately, It happened to actually do this in front of one of the 'geniuses' on my third trip to the apple store so they replaced the phone about 5 months ago. I was given a 90 day warranty on the new phone. It worked fine until last week.
It started cycling on and off. Then it wiped the phone and all of my apps. I restored the phone but there would be a noticeable hesitation between when I touched the screen and when the touch registered. This went on for two days.During those two days the power indicator did not ever show any indication there had been any battery drain, but always showed 100% charged, days, then went dead without ever showing it was discharging. I took it to the Apple store. They tried to do the same restore I had. The phone came back on, but then cuts on and off to the Apple logo. The battery will take a charge, but as it sits on the charger it cuts on and off. The store solution was for me to purchase a new phone since they either had no idea what the problem was, or wouldn't tell me. The phone has not had rough treatment or been exposed to water or excessive moisture. Any suggestions?

try to force restore using: http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1808
If that doesn't work, I'm afraid the device needs another hardware repair.
Please note that using that article will erase everything so make sure you've got a backup.
But restore it AS NEW if it's at all possible.
Good luck
Stijn

Airport cycling on and off repeatedly

I have a time capsule purchased March 2008. The updates are current. Had no problems until the last 2-3 days. Now, it is cycling on and off. It will not stay connected to the internet. The light goes from green to yellow to off to yellow to green. I have shut everything off, unplugged the time capsule, the DSL, ran the disk repair utility.
There are no clicking noises. When it is working with the green light, all seems well but it keeps shutting down.
Is it broke? Software problem?

Will I loose all my backups when the power completely fails? It is a 2 terrabyte hard drive and I have it full with 2 machines backed up on it.
The data should not be affected as it is stored on the internal hard drive ... which (push comes to shove) can be removed. One thing you can do, is if you have another USB drive handy is to perform a data archive to add some additional "insurance." You have been doing these all along, haven't you?
I can get the Apple store to put a new power supply? Or should I buy a new time capsule?
There are no replaceable parts that I am aware that Apple will perform on the TC, but it would be a good idea to have the Apple Technician give the TC a good look at to verify if even the power supply is an issue in the first place.

My iphone cycles on and off how can I fix this

My iphone cycles on and off how can I fix this?

Basics from the manual are restart, reset, restore.
Try these.

GMail cycles on and off on iPad

Sometimes, when I open the Gmail App, the Gmail screen cycles on and off. Then I go to Safari, to access Gmail and it opens normally. Why does the Gmail App cycle on and off sometimes?

Close the Mail app in the Task Bar and re-launch.
Double-click the Home button to reveal Task Bar. Hold Mail app down for a second or two; tap the minus sign to close app.
If it still doesn't work, try a reset.
Hold the Sleep and Home button down (together) for about 10 seconds until you see the Apple logo.

Continues to cycle on and off on boot

mac will not boot up, continues to cycle on and off. Apple logo is displayed and chimes, then will cycle to black screen and then on again. tried to use cmd R but does not go to gray screen

Version of OS X, what computer? Most of us uninstalled our mind reading app, they didn't work anyway?
Run Apple's Hardware Test in extended mode 2-3 times back to back. If errors appear that confirms it's a hardware issue and needs to go in for service.

IPad (3rd gen) Wi-Fi which keeps cycling on and off.

I have a iPad (3rd gen) Wi-Fi which keeps cycling on and off.

Please tell me that it has NEVER been jailbroke. If it has not been jailbroke, here are some standard repair procedures:
First, try a system reset. It cures many ills and it's quick, easy and harmless...
Hold down the on/off switch and the Home button simultaneously until you see the Apple logo. Ignore the "Slide to power off" text if it appears. You will not lose any apps, data, music, movies, settings, etc.
If the Reset doesn't work, try a Restore. Note that it's nowhere near as quick as a Reset. It could take well over an hour! Connect via cable to the computer that you use for sync. From iTunes, select the iPad/iPod and then select the Summary tab. Follow the on-screen directions for Restore and be sure to say "yes" to the backup. You will be warned that all data (apps, music, movies, etc.) will be erased but, as the Restore finishes, you will be asked if you wish the contents of the backup to be copied to the iPad/iPod. Again, say "yes."
At the end of the basic Restore, you will be asked if you wish to sync the iPad/iPod. As before, say "yes." Note that that sync selection will disappear and the Restore will end if you do not respond within a reasonable time. If that happens, only the apps that are part of the IOS will appear on your device. Corrective action is simple - choose manual "Sync" from the bottom right of iTunes.
If you're unable to do the Restore (or it doesn't help), go into Recovery Mode per the instructions here. You WILL lose all of your data (game scores, etc,) but, for the most part, you can redownload apps and music without being charged again. Also, if you have IOS-7, read this.

MSI X99S XPOWER AC EATX Compatibility

I have just placed an order for the X99S XPOWER motherboard. I just also looked up compatibility for three of my components on the MSI website and they are not on the list and want to see if they are compatible or if I will have issues:
Memory:
Crucial 32GB Kit (8GBx4) DDR4 2133 MT/s (PC4-17000) CL15 DR x8 Unbuffered DIMM 288-Pin Desktop Memory CT4K8G4DFD8213
Hard Drive (OS):
Crucial M550 1TB SATA 2.5" 7mm (with 9.5mm adapter) Internal Solid State Drive CT1024M550SSD1
Hard Drives (Storage - I have four of these and I am planning on running on board raid 10):
Western Digital Red 6 TB NAS Hard Drive 1 to 8-Bay 3.5-inch SATA 6, IntelliPower, 64MB Cache Internal Bare or OEM Drives WD60EFRX
Any guidance will be appreciated on these items. I can still return the above if necessary. I would think they would all work but want to check just in case.
Regards

MSi can't test all avilable components in the market so not listed does not mean not compatible. The things you want to get should not make any problems as these are quality brand items that aren't pretty exotic or totally new. The ram is just ddr4-2133 and should therefor not require tweaking to run stable. Just keep in mind to update bios when you get the board.

LX835 fan cycles on and off (and on and off and...) at idle since 6.20 BIOS

Hi,
I have a new-ish LX835-D3215 AIO.
The fan started to cycle on and of constantly about every 30-50 seconds (off) and 10-20 second (on) when the computer is at idle. The CPU temp is about 30% and constant and the fan runs up to 75% of max speed; both according to the PC Health monitor. It does this even when the PC is supposedly sleeping. The computer did not do this OOB, but I believe it started after the 6.20 BIOS upgrade. I have recently upgraded to Win 8 but that has not helped (nor worsened) the problem. The fan winding-up and winding down noise is really infuriating! It is much more intrusive than when the fan runs constantly during normal operation, which is at about 75% and CPU at 42% temperature.
I am disabled and I bought this computer to place by my bedside, and it has become a big disappointment. I have to power down/up or manually hibernate it. (I recently added hibernate for this purpose). I have noted a few other posts of similar fan cycling issues in the forum.
Many thanks for any help. Anyone - please!

I figured it out. Here is what you do; Shut down your mac, then unplug the power cord. Turn your Mac back on and close the lid immediately. That solved my problem.

MSI X99S Xpower AC Cycles on and Off

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