MSI Z77A-GD80 : Few issues with new board.

Hi all,
Swapped out my old motherboard for a MSI Z77A-GD80 yesterday.
I am liking the board (and fast BIOS) a lot so far! I did ran into a few nags though:
1. When using Click BIOS II in Windows 7 x64, applying new settings to the BIOS seems to take 30-40 seconds (and the app will freeze in the meantime). Anything i can do about this?
2. My previous motherboard (GA-Z68X-UD7-B3) allowed me to wake up my computer by pressing a random key on my keyboard.
If i try this with my GD80, the backlight of my Logitech G710+ keys will light up, but the PC does not resume from sleep mode.
I tried both BIOS settings regarding Wake up Events: BIOS > Keyboard > Random and OS. Both do not seem to work.
Any suggestions?
The device is set in Windows, to be allowed to wake up my computer.
3. I connected a brand new Firewire PCI backplate to the motherboard header connection.
When i hook up a firewire device, nothing happens. I sincerely doubt the header would be busted or the controller on a brand new motherboard would be broken.... do i have to turn this on somewhere in the BIOS perhaps?
Thanks a lot for any info!

Quote from: NessPJ on 08-April-13, 19:18:34
@ Froggy Gremlin: Concerning question 2. : You mean the Network adapter power settings influence the keyboard power settings? I'm a bit confused...
(The goal is to wake up the machine with the local USB keyboard).
Not really a factor if wanting to use the keyboard as a wake device, but in the Device Manager, Network adapter, Properties, Power Management, you might want to set that how you want it as it is a separate setting from the Control Panel, Power Options. I personally don't use any sleep or hibernate options as I always hard shutdown my machines, so in the BIOS S1 state is set rather than S3 as related to ACPI I believe it is?
I took a stab at question 2, 1 and 3 was more in my wheelhouse.

Similar Messages

BSOD problems with MSI Z77A-GD80. Possible solution - enabling XMP?

Hello all,
I have problems with BSOD. When I play game "TrackMania2 Canyon" after some time (usually 15-30 minutes) BSOD shows with these bugcheck codes: 0x4E (0x99, 0x219CD3, 0x1, 0x1620D3).
When I using other applicatons (MS Word 2010, Visual Studio 2010, AIMP3, Gom Player, Chrome, WaterFox) there is no BSOD. Also, I tried to play game "Trackmania United Forever" (older game than "TrackMania2 Canyon") and everithig is fine (no BSOD).
On this post Leon says:
Quote from: Leon on 15-August-12, 22:17:18
Enable XMP in the bios and put the modules in the black memory slots.
That should work.
I've been using Corsair modules on several mainboards for some time now without issues.
I want to try enabling XMP for my RAM (it is supported by my RAM modules) to try to solve that BSOD. What I need to do? Does it only possible in OC mode or I can enable XMP in Eco or Standard mode? I do not want overclock RAM with XMP, just to set it on 1600 MHz via XMP.
I do not have any OC experinece (just teoreticaly). The best solution for me will be to enable XMP in Eco or Standard mode. If XMP only possible in OC mode I want other OC values to set like in standard mode.
I tested over 5 hours all 4 RAM modules in the same time with MemTest86+ with 3 passes without any errors.
BTW, when I logged into my Windows account, what is the most easiest way to determine in what mode Z77A-GD80 is (Eco, Standard or OC)?
Configuration (all components are brand new) of my PC is:
MB: MSI Z77A-GD80 (MS-7757 v1.0)
BIOS: v1.0 (no newer versions available)
CPU: Intel i7-3770K with Fanless CPU cooler (NoFan CR-95C)!
VGA: Intel HD 4000
SSD: Samsung, 830, 256GB
RAM: Exceleram, model EBW301A, DDR3, 4 X 4GB, 1.5V
PSU: SeaSonic X-460 fanless
PC case: NoFan CS-80
Windows 7 Ultimate 64b
All drivers are the latest (I get them on September 1st 2012. from motherboard's page)
Here are pictures Memory and SPD tabs in CPU-Z.

Quote from: xmad on 05-September-12, 02:50:42
You see, the problem is the bandwidth.
Your cpu's memory controller as stated by Intel:
Max Memory Bandwidth 25.6 GB/s (if it devide by 1000, and 25 GB/s if it devide by 1024)
DDR 1600 memory has a peak bandwidth of 12800 mb/sec, if you multiply it out then divide by 1024 you get 50 GB/sec. This is why it is hard to oc memory, it isn't the memory, it's the memory controller. Even with 1333 it is over 41 gb/sec, which why it is sometimes nessesary to overvolt the memory and or memory controller / increase the latency to run at all!.
A BETTER and more exact reason for this can be found here although it is based on DDR2. http://www.overclock.net/t/193449/memory-dividers-latencies-and-bandwidth-explained
I don't know how did you calculate 50GB/s peak bandwidth of DDR3 dual channel 4 X 4GB 1600MHz but it seems too much.
According to my calculations it is 2 X 8 X 1600 / 1024 = 25 GB/s (2 is for dual channel), witch is the value that memory controler for Intel i7-3770K was natively made for (Intel i7-3770K Memory Types: DDR3-1333/1600).
Here is specifications for Intel i7-3770K:
http://ark.intel.com/products/65523/Intel-Core-i7-3770K-Processor-(8M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz)
I don't think that 2 kits (2 X 4GB) od DDR3 will increse bandwidth double to 2 X 25 = 50GB/s.
Here is my AIDA64's Cache & Memory Benchmark (12.5% less than theoretical maximum for DDR3 1333MHz dual channel):

MSI z77a GD80 PCI-e running at 8x and Bios update problem

Hi guys, first of all, sorry for my bad English, this is also my first topic, i recently bought a new PC, the spec is:
i7 3770k @4,3ghz
Corsair H80
MSI z77a GD80 bios 1.2
GTX 680 lightning
8gb ddr3 1600mhz cas9 G.Skill
1TB HDD WD Caviar Black
Asus xonar DX
The problem is, since the first bios, i can't run my PCI-E at 16x, i know when my card is idle the PCI-E goes to 1.1@4x , but when it's in use, it turns to PCI-E 3.0@8x , I'm also waiting for bios updates to check if it solves my problem, but when i try to download the new version 1.3, the download fails ( I'm trying to download with Live update 5 )m is there somebody that can help me solve this problem pls?
I've tried until now:
Replace the card into the first PCI-E slot again
Clear the PCI-E slot
Update to bios 1.1 and 1.2 ( 1.3 is not even downloading )
Set PCI Gen 3 from Auto to disable, and it keeps running with PCI-E 3.0@8x
Thx for any help !

Quote from: Froggy Gremlin on 18-November-12, 16:22:21
As per the manual, the VGA must be in the primary slot to run 16X. BIOS setting for graphics 3.0 should be set to Auto.
Do not use Live Update for BIOS updates. Too many borked boards are the result. Use the forum's USB method;
>> Forum Flash Method <<
Just curious. If I installed Add-on card that run at PCI-E 4X on 3rd slot (2nd slot is empty) what's configuration will apply ?

Few issues with BI 2004s

Hello there,
I am having few issues with BI 2004s system. Its a new implementation.
-         When you create Data source using DB connect in new system, it creates with old version. I could see the SMALL square box next to the Data source. I would expect the system to generate new 2004s datasource.
-         Obviously the generated D/S wont allow us to create New Transformations. We have to create old transfer rules/update rule. I do see the option to migrate the D/S when I right click on it. But I get short dump when I try that and then you have to discard the D/S and create new one.
-         Also, it wont allow you to delete the DBConnect D/S although you have option to do that?
Anyone has faced these issues?
Performance issue with reporting:
I understand that you have to have portal in order to execute reports which we dont have at this client. They dont have time and money to invest right now. So we have created reports using BW 3.5 BEx Q.designer/WAD to run the reports on web. The report takes long time when you try to drill down on Material/Customer with only 150,000 records in Cube. The cube has just three dimensions (two char each) and 4 key figures. Any suggestion to improve?
Thanks
Sudhakar

Yes, I noticed it too and was thinking the same thing, blueaura.
I'm sure they want to ensure the scan is reliable. I keep my screen at a lower brightness to save power, and sometimes Starbucks scanners take a bit longer for it to register.
2) is already fixed.
3) is a feature, not a bug. If you are updating an app you already have installed, it doesn't bother to ask you for the password. Nice!
For Google maps, just use maps.google.com in the browser.

Horrible issues with new iTunes update

I am having a few issues with the new iTnes update:
I cannot find a way to view the album artwork in the bottom left-hand corner like I used to. I can't find the option anywhere! I want to see it.
Some song files have had their song titles, album titles, etc. changed from what I had them listed as. For example, my Footloose file, which used to say the song title was "Footloose" and the album as "Footloose", now shows the song title as "Footloose (from 'Footloose')" and the album title is blank. When I go to try to change it back, it is all greyed out and will not let me change it!
Song files that I had put in more than one album artwork for, (if the song appeared on more than one album, including greatest hits albums and sountracks) the update now lists them as all individual songs from each one of the albums, so I have tons of repeats. I want it to go back to showing me all the album artwork for ONE file.
This new update has completely destroyed my iTunes library. I am NOT HAPPY.

Well its simple. Just go to your finder and search for iphone. You will find a backup folder. But, you should just be able to restore your iphone. Then after restore it will ask which backup your will like to use. Then in the drop down menu select your phones name and it should restore all contacts,text messages and notes as well as bookmarks. It worked fine for me until I used iFuntastic and Apptap. I guess it alterd the backup file and deleted all my notes. So, unless you have "hacked" your phone it should restore and re enter your info fine.

Few issues with N120

I got a few issues with the N120 netbook that I hope you could help me to sort out.
1.
First the brightness up/down keys. First I gave this fix a go.
http://www.sammynetbook.com/plugins/for … .php?29576
It works but its very unstable for me, sometimes it will get stuck and just turn the screen all the way down and then hang for some time before being able to turn the light back on. The icon will hang on the desktop too. Beside that it occasionally makes gnome panel freeze or really most of the time.
Then I gave .xbindkeysrc a try from the NC10 wiki.
#Brightness up/down
"xbacklight +10"
m:0x0 + c:111
"xbacklight -10"
m:0x0 + c:116
That seems to work fine however it is not binded to the Fn (just binded to up/down arrow) key I am sure I am missing something pretty simple here, but....
2.
Wifi Fn key binding is not working. xbindkeys -k gives me -
"(Scheme function)"
m:0x0 + c:75
Here I am simple not sure what "Scheme function" to use.
3.
I would like to blacklist the webcam just not sure what module to blacklist. I did check for a BIOS option but unfortunately there is none.
lsmod
Module Size Used by
ipv6 277972 10
hidp 14500 1
hid 42496 1 hidp
fuse 60896 2
i915 183016 1
drm 154656 2 i915
i2c_algo_bit 5864 1 i915
rfcomm 39028 4
bridge 54008 0
stp 2088 1 bridge
llc 5552 2 bridge,stp
bnep 10916 2
sco 10952 2
l2cap 24132 21 hidp,rfcomm,bnep
ext2 69036 1
cpufreq_powersave 1380 0
snd_seq_dummy 2696 0
snd_seq_oss 31168 0
cpufreq_ondemand 7672 2
snd_hda_codec_realtek 206504 1
snd_seq_midi_event 7012 1 snd_seq_oss
acpi_cpufreq 8624 0
snd_seq 53744 5 snd_seq_dummy,snd_seq_oss,snd_seq_midi_event
snd_seq_device 6768 3 snd_seq_dummy,snd_seq_oss,snd_seq
snd_hda_intel 26664 0
freq_table 3716 2 cpufreq_ondemand,acpi_cpufreq
snd_hda_codec 71716 2 snd_hda_codec_realtek,snd_hda_intel
snd_pcm_oss 40352 0
uvcvideo 61040 0
iTCO_wdt 10952 0
snd_hwdep 7656 1 snd_hda_codec
snd_mixer_oss 17540 1 snd_pcm_oss
fan 4392 0
joydev 10400 0
i2c_i801 9656 0
iTCO_vendor_support 3080 1 iTCO_wdt
btusb 12632 4
intel_agp 27484 1
snd_pcm 73672 3 snd_hda_intel,snd_hda_codec,snd_pcm_oss
snd_timer 21100 2 snd_seq,snd_pcm
videodev 36544 1 uvcvideo
v4l1_compat 15688 2 uvcvideo,videodev
bluetooth 56740 10 hidp,rfcomm,bnep,sco,l2cap,btusb
battery 10984 0
video 19832 1 i915
output 2884 1 video
button 5556 0
thermal 13888 0
pcspkr 2372 0
ac 4360 0
i2c_core 22776 4 i915,drm,i2c_algo_bit,i2c_i801
processor 35800 3 acpi_cpufreq
agpgart 32756 3 drm,intel_agp
snd 58436 11 snd_seq_oss,snd_hda_codec_realtek,snd_seq,snd_seq_device,snd_hda_intel,snd_hda_codec,snd_pcm_oss,snd_hwdep,snd_mixer_oss,snd_pcm,snd_timer
soundcore 6848 1 snd
snd_page_alloc 8876 2 snd_hda_intel,snd_pcm
sg 27928 0
psmouse 59644 0
evdev 10176 13
serio_raw 5704 0
ndiswrapper 211324 0
rtc_cmos 11212 0
rtc_core 18048 1 rtc_cmos
rtc_lib 2500 1 rtc_core
ext3 134380 2
jbd 48504 1 ext3
mbcache 7080 2 ext2,ext3
sd_mod 27328 5
ata_generic 4680 0
ata_piix 23080 4
pata_acpi 4228 0
libata 168012 3 ata_generic,ata_piix,pata_acpi
uhci_hcd 23540 0
scsi_mod 110708 3 sg,sd_mod,libata
ide_pci_generic 3816 0
sky2 47240 0
ehci_hcd 35664 0
ide_core 101480 1 ide_pci_generic
usbcore 150192 6 uvcvideo,btusb,ndiswrapper,uhci_hcd,ehci_hcd
Other then these few issues all really seems to work really well. I have only had Arch installed for a week or so (not a lot of time on my hands atm though) but sorting these issues would would make it a 100% for me.
I would appreciate if you could help me out.

1. My "gadget" is a basic script:
#!/bin/sh
# display brightness script
# author: lswest
usage="usage: $0 -c {up|down}"
command=
increment=5%
while getopts h o
do case "$o" in
h) echo "$usage"; exit 0;;
?) echo "$usage"; exit 0;;
esac
done
shift $(($OPTIND - 1))
command=$1
if [ "$command" = "" ]; then
echo "usage: $0 {up|down}"
exit 0;
fi
display_brightness=0
if [ "$command" = "up" ]; then
$(xbacklight -inc $increment)
display_brightness=$(xbacklight|cut --delimiter="." -f 1)
fi
if [ "$command" = "down" ]; then
$(xbacklight -dec $increment)
display_brightness=$(xbacklight|cut --delimiter="." -f 1)
fi
icon_name=""
if [ "$icon_name" = "" ]; then
if [ "$display_brightness" = "0" ]; then
icon_name="notification-display-brightness-off"
else
if [ "$display_brightness" -lt "33" ]; then
icon_name="notification-display-brightness-low"
else
if [ "$display_brightness" -lt "67" ]; then
icon_name="notification-display-brightness-medium"
else
if [ "$display_brightness" -lt "100" ]; then
icon_name="notification-display-brightness-high"
else
icon_name="notification-display-brightness-full"
fi
fi
fi
fi
fi
notify-send " " -i $icon_name -h int:value:$display_brightness -h string:synchronous:brightness
It uses notify-osd and displays the bar/icon. If the icon is missing, you will have to copy the notification-* svg files over from the human icon theme. Just in case you'd like it.
Depends what you want to do with the wireless. You can just bring the interface down with
sudo ifconfig wlan0 down
Or else you can remove the module with
sudo modprobe -r <module>

When I open a new tab, an unwanted website opens instead of my desired home page. THIS IS ONLY AN ISSUE WITH NEW TABS; (opening the web browser AND clicking on the home button frings me to my desired home page.)

When I open a new tab, an unwanted website opens instead of my desired home page. THIS IS ONLY AN ISSUE WITH NEW TABS; (opening the web browser AND clicking on the home button frings me to my desired home page.)
I have attached the url of the unwanted site.

Use this add-on [https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/custom-new-tab/ '''Custom new tab'''].

How can i get my ps 3.0 to install on my laptop ? compatibility issues with newer version of windows

how can i get my ps 3.0 to install on my laptop ? compatibility issues with newer version of windows

It's hopelessly outdated. It's simply not compatible.
Mylenium

Where I can buy TPM for MSI Z77A-GD80?

Hello,
Can you tell me where (some online shop) I can buy TPM (Trusted Platform Module) for MSI Z77A-GD80?
I found only this online shop https://shop.msicomputer.com/App/StoreFront/ProductDetail.aspx?ID=1421 but they cover only USA and Canada. I live in Europe.
One solution is if some forum member who live in Canada or USA will buy that TPM and send me to Europe. Are there any members from Canada or USA? I'll pay you online.

Here is about the only place I could find that may be able to help you.
Read this guys report and then have a look at where he got his stuff from.
https://sites.google.com/site/techbobbins/home/articles/gigabyte-motherboard-tpm-compatibility
All the links are in the report.

Z77A-GD65 power issue/bad system board?

Looking for advice. I am afraid its a bad board, but some symptoms point at power which also makes no sense.
This is what the WHOLE system should look like.
MSI Z77A-GD65 system board
Intel 3770K 3.5Ghz
Anted Kuhler H20 620
G.Skills RipJaws 16GB 1600Mhz DDR3 F3-14900CL9Q-16GBXL (on the test list)
Asus nVidia GTX 680 video card
OCX Vertex 3 256MB SSD
Seagate 500GB data drive
Razer Lycosa Keyboard
Razer DeathAdder Mouse
Antec Sonata IV case with Neo ECO 620W power supply
It seems to me that 620W should be more than enough. According to my calculations thats roughly 330W of power draw against a 620W powersupply.
I am not currently over clocking.
So what the system does look like is:
If I connect the 500GB drive then windows starts rebooting as soon as the Windows logo comes up.
If I place all four sticks of RAM in the system windows starts rebooting as soon as the Windows logo comes up.
If I leave the 500GB standard sata drive off and only use 3 sticks of RAM... well we get a solid system and I am writing this message on it.
3 sticks of ram appear to work in any 3 slots and allow the system to boot, except 1,3,4. That combo also resulted in the reboots at the windows logo.
I first thought it was RAM, originally I was using Corsair Vengeance. I saw some posts here about people having the same problem, and noted that the Corsiar RAM was not tested and switch to a the tested G.Skill instead.
Any ideas? It does not completely seem like a System board issue, but it certainly should not be power. All heat levels are well within normal and as I said the system works great if I leave off the drive and one stick of RAM.
Thanks guys....

System torn down, and put back together. (Found out I was out of Thrermal Compound, so I had to run to the store to get some.)
No long leads, only 9 stand offs matching each mount point on the systemboard.
Back together... problem is the exact same.
However, back to the hard drive issue. I decided to play with that since I was getting no where with 4 sticks of RAM.
What I have discovered is that with NO sata cable connecting the drive to the system board, if I try to power the two 250GB standard sata drives the system reboots just as the Windows logo should come up.
The fact that this behavior is so close to the RAM behavior... I am back to thinking its a power issue, though system board is still a chance... its just easier to buy a new better power supply than the Antec Neo Power 620 that came with the case. (I have not ever had a problem with Antec before, and will likely just buy one of their higher end power supplies to replace it, but I think I will try it next, just in case.)
I am not seeing any strange behavior power wise as far as any monitor shows... but connecting power to a sata drive that is NOT connected with a sata cable and causing a reboot just screams power at me.
Anymore thoughts today. In the mean time off to play Secret World with just the SSD and two sticks of RAM, which still runs rock solid.

MSI Z77A-G65 - Need help with Overclocking

Hi all, I will list hardware first:
Motherboard: MSI Z77A-G65
Bios: Version 10.8
Graphics: 2x GIGABYTE GV-N670OC-2GD GeForce GTX 670 Windforce OC 2048MB in SLI
Power Supply: Seasonic SS-1250XM X-Series
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K Quad-Core Processor 3.5 GHz 8 MB Cache LGA 1155
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32GB (4x8GB) DDR3 1600 MHz (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory
Optical: 2x Lite-On Super AllWrite 24X SATA DVD+/-RW Dual Layer Drive
HDD: 3x Seagate Barracuda 2 TB HDD SATA 6 Gb/s NCQ 64MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive
HDD: 1x Seagate Desktop HDD 4 TB SATA 6Gb/s NCQ 64MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive
Sound: Creative Sound Blaster ZX SBX PCIE Gaming Sound Card with Audio Control Module
SSD: 1x Plextor 512 GB SATA III Solid State Drive PX-512M5P
Cooling: Cooler Master Seidon 240M Liquid CPU Water Cooling System with Copper Heatsink and 240mm Radiator - 2 Fans
Operating System: Windows 8 Pro x64
Case: Cooler Master Cosmos II - Ultra Full Tower Computer Case with Metal Body and Hinged Side Panels
Alright, now you see what I have. That is just about everything excluding things like my wireless mouse and keyboard.
So, I have been perfecting this build for awhile now, but I'm not the most experienced at overclocking. I've used about 5-6 motherboards during about a year trying to get my 3770k to overclock. Yes, I wasted quite a bit of money. I recently RMA'd my CPU because I thought it was defective since I failed to overclock. Now, I have a brand new one. Then, I switched my 2133 G.Skill Sniper memory for more basic Corsair memory. I thought possibly it could have been my memory that was causing issues since it was about the only non-new part left up until now. Now, this build is has all completely new parts. I don't think anything is defective. Lastly, my OS has recently been installed. About 2 days ago. All drivers /windows updates are up to date.
Alright, I gave my opinion on my hardware / OS and explained that. So, now I will try to explain my overclocking attempts. I first tried to overclock using the basic OC Genie II settings untouched. However, that didn't work out for me. I did get BSODs eventually or programs that crashed. Sometimes, games have crashed. I'm not doing anything overly important on this computer. I have a lot of other non-overclocked computers for various things like work ect. So, I am free to be able to play with this computer and try to get it OC'd properly. So, don't worry about that. I've read about 10-20 guides on overclocking and such, and for some reason I can't get things to be stable to the point that programs don't crash or fail. It seems with the Z77A-G65, there's no offset voltage tweaking option. If there is, I can't find it. I've read a lot that if you disable all power saving and use a fixed voltage that it can be more stable than using an offset voltage. Higher temps and more power usage I know.
So far, I've tried both, and neither have really worked for me. If I put vdroop offset control to 100% my temperatures increase but it can handle it. So, I tried setting the CPU to be fixed at 1.3 while at 4.5ghz. That was still not stable. Prime was ok, but some games and programs crashed. So, it wasn't stable for real world usage. Most of the time actually prime will be ok unless I try to put it at 4.8ghz with mostly default settings. So, after I tried 4.5ghz and 1.3 fixed voltage with no power saving options on, I tried bringing the voltage up to 1.350 which increased the temperature under load to about 85C. This wasn't stable either, so I went up a bit higher, well alot in overclocking standards. I went up to 1.4 just to see the temperatures and it got up to about 85C a occasionally higher. This was not stable either. So I tried turning off all C states and other power saving options and setting the vdroop offset control to 100% while also setting the voltage to auto. This wasn't stable. Usually when I set the voltage to auto , it will crash at anything above 4.7ghz and not boot. Anything below that it will boot, and even be capable of running prime or intel burn test, but it won't remain completely stable with all applications. Even basic programs like Firefox crashes sometimes. I do have one program that is pretty nice for benchmarking in the real world, and that's Amazon's cloud drive uploader. I ran it for a bit and it will eventually crash if I'm overclocking. I have tried some games like Diablo 3, Borderlands 2, ect and they have crashed as well on a clean windows 8 install.
I've also tried some of the turbo templates that only OC during turbo boost but idle at normal speeds/ 1.6ghz. This wasn't stable either. So, I'm at a loss, I've tried Turbo overclocking, Fixed voltage overclocking, offset voltage overclocking, power saving options on , and power saving options off. No luck. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

First off, Ivy CPU's under conventional cooling solutions are terrible OC'ers. 85C is too hot for everyday use under stress. Mid 70C's or better still, less is recommended. All significant power saving features are lost once the CPU V. is taken out of Auto. VDroop at 100% supplies the most voltage and decreases it as the percentage is lowered. Turbo OC is often the best over a CPU Ratio OC. From what I can read, the CPU you have is average and should run stable at 44X or maybe 45X on Auto CPU V., all power saving features intact.
32GB of RAM is great for rendering, graphics and audio/video creation, but if the goal is a gaming machine, 8GB to 16GB is more than enough.
Added: Recommended settings; SA 0.965-0.970v's, PLL 1.82-1.84v's, I/O 1.07v's.

MSI Z77A-G45 RAID Issue

Greetings...
Just got a new MSI MoBo and wanted to RAID1 my two WD Caviar Black HDDs. However, everytime I enable RAID and reboot it goes to a black screen with two "Z"s randomly placed in the middle. Once I get to the "black screen", it will only boot to that screen afterwards and needs a CMOS reset to fix. I have tried everything I can think of, but always get the same results. I have successfully installed Windows 7 on one of the drives with AHCI mode enabled, and have also had IDE mode work fine... but as soon as I enable RAID - black screen.
Everything else on the board seems to be fine. Anyone have any ideas?
SYSTEM:
MSI Z77A-G45 mobo
Intel i5-3570 CPU
Coolermaster Hyper 212+ EVO
8GB Crucial DDR3-1600
EVGA 560Ti 448 Core Classified (Primary)
XFX 260GTX XXX Ed. (Physx)
2 x WD Caviar Black Dual-Proc HDDs
LG DVD Super-Multi Burner
Silverstone Decathalon 850W PSU
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit

FIXED - Ended up reflashing the BIOS, which restored the RAID utility. BTW, my G15 keyboard would not register the CTRL-I to get into the utility... I had to use a PS/2 keyboard, which required a CMOS reset in order to recognize. Just posting this in case anyone else runs into this.

Z77A-GD80 Driver issue unknown SM Bus Controller missing

I have a Z77A-GD80 running with Windows XP SP3 all drivers from the CD have been installed I have even used Live Update 5 application I can not find out what this missing
SM Bus Controller driver is. There is nothing found on Windows Update, even searching manually on the CD and automatically. I have no idea what to do. My question what is this driver
and how do I get it? Is it related to Thunderbolt? If so is there a driver for it?

You don't 'unistall' anything. The Intel chipset driver automatically does it for you when it replaces it with the new driver.
Use the drop down and select the correct OS being used;
http://msi.com/product/mb/Z77A-GD80.html#/?div=Driver&os=Win864
If all this doesn't work, go to Intel and search for the SM Bus patch.

MSI 990FX-GD80 memory issues

just recently purchased the 990fx-gd80 and all i have had is issues with the ram.
i have been testing constantly for 2 days now and come to the conclusion the ram i have bought isnt supported at all
i can only achieve DDR3-1333Mhz 8-9-8-22, because if i take it any higher windows puts 2063mb of the ram into "hardware reserved" in resource monitor.
i have tried all the fixes in the world like msconfig boot options, DDR voltages, manual timings, memory remapping options and basically everything else!
i have the full 4GB running in windows now but i cant achieve the rated 1600mhz speed set by the manufacture.
i have attached the SPD information of the ram below.

op, mods, admins, MSI staff - you can view the issue by:
1) flash bios .1 off the web site and clear cmos for good behaviour.
2) put sticks in for dual channel sockets.
3) select ddr3-1600, save and exit.
4) memtest (latest one) from a boot disk.
5) test reports (and so will windows) 64bit DC with a stick reserved and you will get through with no errors. windows will also boot but your 2nd stick won't be available.
6) reboot.
7) change memory to unganged for 128bit SC and the board will fail to post with a code of 54.
8) clear cmos back to defaults to get back in.
9) flash *any* other bios *after* version .1 (either .2 off the site - or one of the b3x betas from places), keep the sticks in the same sockets and run memtest again at 1600. you will find it hangs the *second* it tries to access the 2nd stick and if you can get into windows - you will find that you are in 64bit SC mode (even though you haven't touched the sticks) and still 1 stick will be reserved.
MSI STAFF, MODS, WHOEVER... on certain chips... this board doesn't use/initialise/work with/switch on half of the IMC. it's not an OC issue. it's not a 1600 issue. it's not a XMP issue. it's having a rubbish UEFI bios that was written by drunken chimpanzees and all you're doing by making your customers go round in circles is make us all buy another brand of product in the future.
OP - you've the same issue as me. my board'll be going back to the shop for a refund after the UK holiday I think. support have had my ticket in for 3 weeks. first they sent me a scan of the instruction book and 2 weeks later said they will get a engineer to look at it. 150GBP for 3 weeks downtime. bargain.

AC Power Adapter issue with new (refurbished) ibook...

I just got my refurbished ibook today and went to plug it in and test it, and then wanted to charge the battery on it. At first I thought it wasn't doing anything when I went to turn it on (it made the starting sound but the power button didn't turn on or anything), but then after trying a couple times, I noticed that the black screen had a faint image of an apple on it. I had the screen too far to the front for me to see it clearly (as it's an lcd screen) and later when setting my preferences, I had noticed the brightness was just too dim which I adjusted...
So the power button never did glow when it was turned on (at least I didn't notice it after I got it booted up). My adapter's plug fits loosely in the socket on the laptop but still glows green, but all the time... Isn't it supposed to glow orange when charging??? Well I was setting up everything and did my power management settings as well, and as I have it set up to show me my battery level on the desktop, I was noticing that it was depleting (at what I would guess is a normal pace for my current settings), it started off around 83% and had gone down to 58% or so after about 1 and a half hours with highest settings basically. But my power adapter was plugged in the whole time... Shouldn't it be using my AC power and not the battery's?
So I turned it off and now it is sitting there (hopefully charging), but that little green light on the adapter where it plugs into the laptop is just that, still green...
Does all this mean that there is a problem with the power adapter and its ability to actually charge my laptop? I got this refurbished (from TigrfDirect) with a 1 year warranty (from Apple) so this should be covered, but as I just received the thing today, I really don't want to have to deal with a messed up AC Adapter...
Also, I haven't even yet checked the battery itself to see what # it is and if it is one of the ones that is part of the recall or not... I would hate to have to do that and not have a working AC Adapter, though of course if the adapter is't working, I can't charge the thing anyways, so I guess I would have to wait another few weeks with dealing with Apple and the warranty issues anyways.
I looked in the help section and the only suggestion they had for if your battery doesn't charge is to take it out and put it back in and then attach the adapter again. I guess I could do that at the same time I check on the battery's recall status, I just hate opening my computer up as soon as I get it. Also the battery cover is not totally flush with the rest of the case, one corner sticks up a bit, and I think it was a replaced item as it doesn't have the little LED lights that the computer says should be there to tell me how much the battery is charged (unless this is UNDER the cover for some reason, but the cover is bright white compared to the rest of the ibook coloring, so it seems as it was just a basic replacement cover used)...
Ok, so thanks for any input you might have. I will let people know in a couple hours if the ibook has actually charged at all during that time or not...

So I did the reset button thing and it didn't do anything at all... If I plug in the power adapter without the battery the laptop will not turn on at all, so I am guessing that it definitely is the adapter and will have to contact Apple to somehow get a new one. Oh great, tomorrow's Friday and isn't this a holiday weekend? Which means it will probably take even longer to get them to send me a replacement adapter... You think that buying a refurbished mac would mean that they would have tested out all the parts/components first before reselling it...
And so while I was at it, I checked on my battery's model # and serial # and it is one of the ones on the recall list. I think I was right that it had been replaced (now that I know that the battery is part of the back cover) which would probably explain the recall battery as this is one of the older ibooks and should have been one of the lucky ones made before the ones on the list... I did get to see the lights (only 3 though) flash solid green for about 3 seconds when replacing the battery back into the laptop.
One good thing did come out of this... As I was taking the keyboard out to find the computers serial # (I already filled out my form for the new battery), I was surprised to see an Airport card. Not that it would have surprised me too much in the first place except that it wasn't listed in the details/parts list when I bought the laptop. It was also listed that my laptop had a 10GB hard drive (while the picture on the website showed a 30GB one). The box it came in said 30GB as well, but I just dismissed that. I had went to see how much space I had left on the HD to see that it had 13.99GB and this is after any formatting, and the install of OS 10.2.8 including OS 9.2.2... So a few added bonuses to help make up for the fact that it is NOT is as good shape as I was expecting (or should be to even be sold as a refurb IMO), and the fact that the AC adapter is completely faulty.
I just hope that I can get a new AC Adapter soon, so that I can at least be able use my laptop with some kind of power until the new replacement battery shows up. This must be some kind of terrible joke. I get the laptop to be able to use it for a few hours and then have it be without ANY kind of power for posibly up to 2 months? I seem to have the worst luck with Macs, which makes it strange as I have never had any problems with all the PC's I have ever used (and I started using computers when I was 4) but I have now had an imac die (possibly the HD), an Apple studio monitor start flashing on the screen possibly due to connector problems, and now this (and all within 2 months). I am almost ready to just give up, but I have spent too much time and money on all this mac stuff (and all for my obsession with OS X) to do it just yet.
So please tell me macs aren't always this horrible, or else I will have to make up my own commercials where PCs are better because at least they turn on and boot up for more than 1 week (I think I had the imac working for about 5 days total before it would boot with errors).
Or some kind soul could also mail me a working AC Adapter that would work with my ibook (if you happen to have a spare), so I could get to do more on it other than changing it's settings... I now only have 40% battery life left. I don't think I should even turn it on again as the boot up alone would drain away too much precious juice...

MSI Z77A-GD80 : Few issues with new board.

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for