My 4G LTE (really 3G HDR) Saga

If it wasn't for the good, polite, sincere tech support at Verizon, as well as the great contributors on this forum, I would have abandoned ship, and gone with someone/something else.
First a little background. Needed to improve our internet service. Dail-up at 24K. New TV and BlueRay Player all wants to talk to the internet. It is very doubtful that our landline phone provider will ever get DSL out to where we live. Satellite seems to be cumbersome and expensive. 3 neighbors have been enjoying USB Cellular Modem via Verizon for the last couple of years, before that they used the satellite stuff. This lead me to the USB Cellular Modem system as well.
Our 4G plan started 3/4/11, knowing that I was just in a 3G area at this time, and that was all that was apparently available. Billing Cycle 10th - 9th. ( see my data billing post at http://community.vzw.com/t5/4G-Discussion/4g-over-billing-watch-for-extra-10-fee/td-p/543898 )
1st USB Modem - LG VL600. Unreliable connections and a low signal strength. Verizon and I determined I needed an external antenna. Verizon offered the Pantech UML290 as it has an antenna fitting. Got that and the magnetic mount antenna from them, and returned the LG for a full refund. The antenna port on the 290 requires an adapter cable, which did not came with the antenna. Ordered the adapter cable and a CradlePoint MBR1200 from 3G.com. The MBR1200 is part of the plan to provide connections to the TV and etc...
The antenna improved my signal strength by about 4 dBi, but connections were still unreliable. Signal strength would go from 86 dBi to 125 dBi in a flash. Many calls to Verizon. And you know the drill - reset, unplugged, reload software, restart computer, lock in 3G and etc... 1 to 2 hours being online started to seem normal. Verizon even did a field check? Then my neighbor, who has Verizon 3G service with a USB720 brought his USB720 over. Without an antenna hooked up on his modem, we were seeing a signal strength of 78 dBi and steady, with no sign of being disconnected. I'll now use the USB720 results/test as my goal for the UML290.
Then the 4G big outage. Glad I still had the 24K dial-up. The only way to connect via the 290 during this outage was to lock in 1X. 150K to 200K is better then 24K. Router was useless as it did not know how to handle this. Talked to CradlePoint about not being able to lock in at 3G or 1X.
I use the 290 on a Mac. Had Parallels, purchased Windows 7, updated the firmware in the 290. Helped some. Got the Wilson Panel Antenna from 3G.com which improved the dBi by 15. Now seeing 82 to 76 dBi. Verizon also sent out a new Sim Card.
Now to the good news - 2 weeks ago, after another Verizon field check (?) and probably the 4G/3G software improvement in our area in the same time frame, and a new firmware update of the MBR1200 (now has all the settings that VZAccess Manager has), I have been on line continuously, locked in at 3G.
Here is what Verizon Support has done for us:
Credited me $50 for April, Credited me $25 for May.
Verizon sent out a new USB760 modem (no cost, and I get to keep it if I don't use it) if the 290 4/3G service wasn't going to work out. Step backwards in technology plus going from $50 to $59 a month plus a higher penalty for overage... Economics of going backwards does not make sense. But if the pain and suffering was to reemerge...
Know this is been long, scattered and windy, but I just wanted to say thanks for your's ( the forums contributors ) and Verizon's help...
Tom Jenkins

Hello Tom-the-Piddler,
I'm glad we were able to assist you! Thank you for choosing Verizon Wireless!

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I need someone who has a lot of information on LTE in Rural America.. this is killing me.

My first problem: I live in an area that Verizon Wireless does not service. It's in an extended 1X area. The local carrier/roaming partner here is Appalachian Wireless. Verizon signed the LTE in Rural America program with this local carrier. I bought a Verizon iPad (4G LTE) and my return window is narrowing and I need to find out an answer, now.
Question 1: I've heard that if the iPad is not on a post-paid account that it will not roam in an extended network, first problem. I do not have Verizon for cell service considering I only get 1X data here at the moment. So if I keep this iPad and activate it on a pre-paid account, will I be able to roam at all?
Question 2: When this local carrier completes this 4G LTE network on Verizon spectrum (band 13, 700 mhz), will this still be considered roaming even though they signed that agreement? If so, will I still need a post paid account or will a pre-paid account still work?
Question 3: Will this LTE work here on this new iPad or do I just need to go ahead and swap it for an AT&T LTE one while I still have the chance, AT&T has decent 3G here and eventually will have LTE here or around here i'm hoping.
I need answers, asap. I keep getting mixed ones. I contacted Verizon, they said to buy an AT&T one just to be safe. You would think with an agreement that explicity states "Verizon users will be able to use 4G in this area" that someone would know the answer to this

i live in a place that used to be called Rural America (Algonquin, IL, Mchenry County, U.S.A.) but is now considered an extended part of the Chicago Suburbs, and Verizon 4G LTE is now finally available here as well (I just ordered my 4G LTE USB Modem yesterday, so I won't get to try it out until it arrives tomorrow by Fed Ex). i will post back here tomorrow as to weather it does actually connect at 4G LTE or not, and how fast 4G LTE really is assuming that it actually does connect at 4G LTE. I am a little bit skeptical as to weather it will actually connect at 4G LTE, because i have owned one of these 4G LTE USB Modems before and all I got then was 3G and the occasional 3G/4G Flip Flop, but that was before Verizon actually had 4G LTE listed on their map for my Area, so just maybe this time things will be faster than last time. The one thing that I definitely do NOT recommend buying a 4G LTE Device if you only get 3G in your area, because, you will actually get a slower speed than if you still had a 3G Device, the Backwards Compatibility Downgrade to 3G is not all that great most of the time and is usually slower than a 3G Device would be in the same area. Just my previous experience from trying it out once before.

My 3rd Party SSD won't mount

I am having trouble because I can't tell exactly what my problem is, in order to find the solution.
I have just installed a Crucial M500 SSD into a Macbook Pro. I installed and time machine'd it as an external drive, and it booted just fine (using the Option Key).
I put it inside the MBP, and I go automatically to Recovery. I can't mount the drive.
It's unclear to me if this is some kind of OS X problem, or if this is because of the 3rd party SSD issue that so many are plagued with, since Apple decided to lock down kext signing.
Regarding the Yosemite SSD problem, everyone on the internet points to this:
http://www.cindori.org/Trim-enabler-and-yosemite/
But this assumes the drive can be mounted. My Macintosh HD volume is grayed out and can't be mounted.
I have confirmed the drive is fine and the cable is fine, because the original HDD works fine if I put it back in the Mac, and the SSD works fine if I put it back in an enclosure.
I've already done the installation and time machine process twice, with the same results. Repeated attempts to repair and erase have resulted in worse results, until I took the SSD out, used it externally again, and put it back in.
I could really use some sage guidance here!

I gave you steps but not what to do at each step. So, you need to first boot from the external drive that holds your original system:
Boot Using OPTION key:
1. Restart the computer.
2. Immediately after the chime press and hold down the
      "OPTION" key.
3. Release the key when the boot manager appears.
4. Select the external disk icon.
5. Click on the arrow button below the icon.
Next, you need to repartition and reformat the SSD which is now the internal drive:
Drive Partition and Format
1. Open Disk Utility in your Utilities folder.
2. After DU loads select your hard drive (this is the entry with the mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Note the SMART status of the drive in DU's status area. If it does not say "Verified" then the drive is failing or has failed and will need replacing. SMART info will not be reported on external drives. Otherwise, click on the Partition tab in the DU main window.
3. Under the Volume Scheme heading set the number of partitions from the drop down menu to one. Click on the Options button, set the partition scheme to GUID then click on the OK button. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Apply button and wait until the process has completed.
4. Select the volume you just created (this is the sub-entry under the drive entry) from the left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window.
5. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Security button, check the button for Zero Data and click on OK to return to the Erase window.
6. Click on the Erase button. The format process can take up to several hours depending upon the drive size.
Now, you need to boot from the Recovery HD that is located on your now external drive:
Boot Using OPTION key:
1. Restart the computer.
2. Immediately after the chime press and hold down the
      "OPTION" key.
3. Release the key when the boot manager appears.
4. Select the Recovery HD icon. If there are two DO NOT use the one labeled 10.10.
5. Click on the arrow button below the icon.
When the Utilities Menu appears:
Clone using Restore Option of Disk Utility
1. Open Disk Utility in the Utilities folder.
2. Select the destination volume from the left side list.
3. Click on the Restore tab in the DU main window.
4. Select the destination volume from the left side list and drag
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5. Select the source volume from the left side list and drag it to
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6. Double-check you got it right, then click on the Restore button.
Destination means the internal new SSD. Source means the external former internal drive.
Upon completion quit Disk Utility. From the Apple menu in the screen menubar select Set Startup Disk. Set it to the internal SSD. Select Restart.

ITunes Gone Haywire: Playlists, Folders, Settings and more

Hello all. Man...I really need some sage advice in a bad way. I've been trying my best to conquer this major iTunes problem of mine, but ultimately, I have just not been able to find a working solution to fix it. Even my efforts at pinpointing the source of my troubles have been in vain. I've finally become exasperated enough that I decided I be better off trying my luck here. Any help would be very much appreciated.
THE PROBLEM(S): A couple months ago I was working on some music projects within iTunes, when something seemed to go awry, because it promptly started acting strangely, not like it normally did, and that's when I began to experience the problems. It had always run smoothly for me up until then, but it's been giving me major trouble ever since. Here's some of what's been going on:
Playlists gone haywire: My entire stable of folders and playlists has seemingly gone mad, doing all sorts of unfortunate and crazy things. I routinely get new waves of unwanted playlists and folders appearing in my library--some are exact duplicates of playlists and folders that already existed in my library, while others bear the same or similar titles, but are deformed in one way or another. Moreover, I'll often get a bunch of very old playlists reappear--ones that I had long since deleted from my library. Other times I will find that a whole bunch of the lists and folders have suddenly disappeared again, or sometimes their location will change. The worst of all is when, as happened a few times, I just completed a bunch of changes and modifications to the library's folders and playlists, or I was working on a music project in some lists, and then suddenly it all disappears into thin air a short time later (after a reboot of iTunes, for instance).
B) iTunes Library Files (itl, xml, genius, extras, and sentry): They refuse to nest in the main iTunes folder location they are supposed to reside in. Instead they insist on taking up residence in my Previous iTunes Libraries folder. I tried a few strategies I had come across here in the pages of the community, but none has worked to date.
C) Unstable Preference Settings: At least a few times I've logged on to iTunes to find that my usual settings and preferences have completely changed, causing problems. Sometimes it will change my iTunes Media folder location in Edit>Preferences>Advanced to another location (like to my Previous iTunes Libraries folder location), thus creating a new hierarchy of media folders therein. Also, my settings in View keep changing back and forth, my sources in Edit>Preferences>General had changed on me one time, and more.
MY CURRENT SETUP
-My PC: Dell Inc. Inspiron 580, Microsoft Windows 7 x64 Home Premium Edition, Service Pack 1 (Build 7601)
-iTunes 11.1.3.8
Library Size: 335 GB, 24,734 files, 13,056 folders
I'm an iTunes Match subscriber.
Current iTunes Media folder location via Edit>Preferences>Advanced tab: C:/Users/Dowgiert/Music/iTunes/iTunes Media. Both "Keep iTunes Media folder organized" and "Copy files to iTunes Media folder when adding to library" are currently checked.
Current folder path
Titles iTunes has chosen for my library files it uses: iTunes Library 2013-10-25 Extras, iTunes Library 2013-10-25 Genius, iTunes Library 2013-10-25 (.itl), iTunes Library 2013-10-25 (.xml), sentinel *See screen shot below.
Current location that iTunes uses for my library files (database .itl file, genius file, etc.) is: C:/Users/Dowgiert/Music/iTunes/Previous iTunes Libraries. The folder paths for these same files are: C:/Users/Dowgiert/My Music/iTunes/Previous iTunes Libraries.
-I also have an iPad 2, and a couple other iPods (classic and Nano). None of these currently has the iTunes library in the desired state (thus ruling out importing from them).
WHAT I'VE DONE SO FAR
-Backed up my library with SyncToy 2.1 (x64)
-I downloaded iTunes Folder Watch, however it doesn't seem to work until I fix the location of my .xml file.
-I've tried countless other fixes, changes to my software and PC, etc., but I won't list them all here now. Feel free to ask me more.
WHAT I'VE NOTICED
-It seems like these unpleasant library changes are often more likely (but not always) to coincide with one of the following: an iTunes update; an iTunes Match update; a Genius update; an iTunes shutdown, followed by a later restart of the program.
Again, thank you so much for any help. I'm really stuck. I have all sorts of other information at the ready, so feel free to ask if you have questions.
Forest

Hello again Mr. TuringTest2! Continued thanks for your help sir! I've long suspected that iTunes Match was partly responsible for my troubles, by the way. Let me update you on what's going on.
New Steps I've Taken:
-After your last response, I did the readings (thanks!), and then began by turning off my iTunes Match. From reading the post you provided on resetting iTunes Match, I got the impression that my order of operations should go as follows (please correct me if I'm wrong):
1st) Disable iTunes Match. [Completed]
2nd) Clean up my library [Started, but not completed*]
3rd) Try the Shift+ start iTunes Match technique to try and successfully clear away any harmful entries that might be saved in my Apple iCloud/iMatch database. [Incomplete]
4th) Restart iTunes and turn iTunes Match back on. Determine if the problems continue. [Incomplete]
*UPDATE: STEP 2 INTERRUPTED
I began clearing, moving, and modifying the playlists and folders that were the unwanted end-products of my recent troubles. I was making good progress cleaning up: Went from 258 playlists (regular) down to 200, and from 67 folders and subfolders down to 27. I hadn't yet deleted any of my 56 smart playlists, but did place them all into one folder (to organize them for later cutting).
Then came the hiccup. I didn't know clicking the button seen below on my account page would automatically turn iTunes Match back on, but it did:
Match ran it's usual 3-step process, and in just a few moments, undid the almost all of the aforementioned progress I had made. Of course, as it seems want to do, it added back a whole bunch of trash playlists and folders.
I ran a couple of your scripts to assess the damage. They showed that just by this accidental restart of iTunes Match alone, my library ballooned from 200 reg playlists/56 smart lists/27 folders, all the way up to new totals of 264/64/47!
When I returned to the problem today, first thing I did was turn iTunes Match off again. This resulted in dropping the totals to 235/63/47. I found that odd, so I did some more testing--turning Match on and off, each time recording the results. Here's all the recorded results in total numbers of regular playlists, smart playlists, and folder counts after each change:
Off:     200/56/27
On:     264/64/47
Off:     235/63/47
On:     285/64/48
Off:     256/63/48
On:     306/64/49
Off:     277/63/49
I ran your PlaylistToFile script each time after I turned iTunes Match off (it wouldn't run when I had Match on for some reason) and made copies of the results. I wanted to be able to see the specific changes being made each time, and to try and determine which specific playlists and folders were acting up. I you think taking a look at these results would be useful, I've copied them into a shared google document you can access at the following link:
-https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ESzfCpcO14krXp5sTQdMke0CpFDF--gbwVxrGaNmbgw/ edit?usp=sharing
I also noticed that iTunes started creating more backups of my library's database files within the Previous iTunes Libraries folder. Here's an image of the new ones:
Also, it appears iTunes created new .itl and .xml files in my main iTunes folder (see below). Or at least that's what the "Date Created" info column says. What up with that? Also, I still have the Trash folder here that you told me to set up, and a couple new .tmp files have appeared. Here's how it looks:
What do you think I should do tt2? If I had completed the four steps (outlined at top) without accidentally turning on Match before I all four were completed, would that have fixed the problem? Should I do something different, or in a different order? I'm all ears. Thank you so much for all your help!
Eternally grateful,
Forest

Who has a binary built of bdbxml2.2.13 on mingw+msys

just wonder somebody get bdbxml2.2.13 built successfully using mingw+msys.
may I have a copy of your binary built.
thanks

i live in a place that used to be called Rural America (Algonquin, IL, Mchenry County, U.S.A.) but is now considered an extended part of the Chicago Suburbs, and Verizon 4G LTE is now finally available here as well (I just ordered my 4G LTE USB Modem yesterday, so I won't get to try it out until it arrives tomorrow by Fed Ex). i will post back here tomorrow as to weather it does actually connect at 4G LTE or not, and how fast 4G LTE really is assuming that it actually does connect at 4G LTE. I am a little bit skeptical as to weather it will actually connect at 4G LTE, because i have owned one of these 4G LTE USB Modems before and all I got then was 3G and the occasional 3G/4G Flip Flop, but that was before Verizon actually had 4G LTE listed on their map for my Area, so just maybe this time things will be faster than last time. The one thing that I definitely do NOT recommend buying a 4G LTE Device if you only get 3G in your area, because, you will actually get a slower speed than if you still had a 3G Device, the Backwards Compatibility Downgrade to 3G is not all that great most of the time and is usually slower than a 3G Device would be in the same area. Just my previous experience from trying it out once before.

Is HDR really 32-bit?

I'm really impressed with the new HDR feature in Camera Raw 9.0. It's easy to use and seems to do an excellent job. It is advertised as producing a 32-bit HDR image. This size would indicate that that is probable because my 12 MP NEF files are only 8 or 9 MB, and the resulting DNG HDR file is 56 MB. But both Bridge and Lightroom indicate that the HDR image is 16 bit. Any thoughts? I haven't yet tried it using Lightroom, but plan to do so shortly.

Jim, the result of the HDR merge is a floating-point DNG file. The image data itself is stored as 16-bit floating point data. When you render that data using the Camera Raw controls, we internally use a 32-bit floating point image processing pipeline to handle the rendering.

Safari really slow on LTE

About a day ago my safari is REALLY SLOW on LTE. It will take about 1 minute to load a google search and even longer for website with a lot of content. Apps will load data fine within a few seconds. It's just any websites i try to load take forever. Anyone else experiencing this?

Speed Test is an app that you download in the app store.
Try any or all of these basic troubleshooting steps and Safari's performance may improve. After each step, try Safari and see if it helps.
Restart the iPad by holding down on the sleep button until the red slider appears and then slide to shut off. To power up hold the sleep button until the Apple logo appears and let go of the button.
Reset the iPad by holding down on the sleep and home buttons at the same time for about 10-15 seconds until the Apple Logo appears - ignore the red slider - let go of the buttons.
Quit all apps and restart. Go to the home screen first by tapping the home button. Quit/close open apps by double tapping the home button and the task bar will appear with all of you recent/open apps displayed at the bottom. Tap and hold down on any app icon until it begins to wiggle. Tap the minus sign in the upper left corner to close the apps. Restart the iPad. Restart the iPad by holding down on the sleep button until the red slider appears and then slide to shut off. To power up hold the sleep button until the Apple logo appears and let go of the button.
Go to Settings>Safari>Clear History, Cookies and Data. Restart the iPad. Restart the iPad by holding down on the sleep button until the red slider appears and then slide to shut off. To power up hold the sleep button until the Apple logo appears and let go of the button.
Message was edited by: Demo

I'm really interested in buying an imac but I also want tostart a bookeeping business using Sage 50 accounting. Is there a way to have both?

Sage 50 (Simply Accounting) is only available for PC and I really want an imac. Will it run successfully with windows parallel for mac? Please help.

Yes, it's only a accounting program.
If you were 3D gaming or heavy CPU, or working closely with other Windows users, then I would suggest a Windows machine.

My grandmother decided to pay my phone bill a week late because it was really expensive. Once my iPhone 5 was back on the Verizon service, I couldn't get LTE. I don't know if y'all have been having the same problem but it has been really stressing me out.

For some odd reason I can't connect my Verizon iPhone 5 to LTE. All I get is 3G even when I'm near big cell towers. I don't know if this is network problem or what, but I would appreciate any useful advice.

Restart the phone
Turn LTE on/off
Talk to Verizon

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What do you do when you down load a $32 dollar audio book and part 2 goes missing during the processing stage and i cant find it anywhere?

If it's not in the Music app on your phone, and you can't find it via the phone's spotlight search screen, then try the 'report a problem' page to contact iTunes Support : http://reportaproblem.apple.com
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The network show LTE icon, but it's not connected to internet or Facebook, or running really show

Is there anyone has this issue?

Hi Vuhien,
Let's get to the bottom of this speed issue! Please run a speed test and share results. Please reset network settings http://vz.to/OPvlTr for now and test.
AntonioC_VZW
Follow us on Twitter at www.twitter.com/VZWSupport

Did 4G LTE kill my Galaxy SIII or did the Radio develop narcolepsy???

I apologize up front for the length and tedium of this post. This is wits end, and the last attempt to find a solution or at the very least an honest explanation of the problem and commitment to a solution, without activating an old phone and throwing it back on our corporate rep. I'm really hoping that it Verizon and Samsung will step up instead of bouncing the blame game back and forth; and I refuse to accept a refurbished phone of any kind as a replacement.
So here's my saga. I pre-ordered my SIII and from the initial activation on July 11, 2012 until September 20, 2012 I did not have a single complaint. I was a raving fan. Battery life was great. No speed issues, no Wi-Fi problems, not a single dropped call, or connection interruption. This is a work phone, and I am home-based with a Wi-Fi connection so mobile data usage is light, but I rely on voice and text to be available at all times, and on mobile data to know that I have full e-mail access when away from the office.
On September 22 I realized that I had not heard back from a number of texts sent a few days earlier. I re-booted with a battery pull and messages started popping in. The problem continued sporadically, but it wasn't constant and there was no material or problematic change in battery life. October 12 I was out of the office all day and unable to hold a mobile signal for more than a few minutes the whole time. That was the first time I saw a rapid battery drain, which I now realize was likely related to constantly searching for service. The problem continued, and seemed to increase in frequency somewhat. Occasionally it would display "Searching for Service" and display the No Connection icon in the status bar, but other times the status bar icon with anywhere from 2 to 4 bars would remain the status bar, but the network on the pull down screen would be blank. It always re-connected with a Power Button Re-Start, but then a new intermittent problem started where the screen would go black. Pressing the Volume buttons produce pings, and holding the power button down gets a vibration as though it's powering off - but the only way to bring it back is with a battery pull.
October 16 I headed to the airport to fly from Florida to the corporate office in Portland, OR. From the moment I left my home Wi-Fi mobile data was dead in the water, voice service was spotty, and I continued to re-start in order to pick up and send texts periodically. October 17 I searched and installed the 4.0.4 update, which was pretty much completed the bricking. After that the intermittent problems became the norm and it would intermittently hold a connection, the black screen lock up now occurs multiple times a day, often just hours or even minutes apart. I tried to toggle every variable I could think of (WiFi on/off, SD card out, Power Save settings, etc.) to identify triggers or patterns, with no luck. And then the No SIM Card error started to pop up on occasion. Thoroughly frustrated after finding similar posts from across the country, I took it in to my local Verizon store on October 22. Of course they had no idea of the problems I described and had not heard of anything even remotely similar. I mentioned that there was some indication that there could be some problem handing off from 4G to 3G, (which I thought may have been relevant since I'd just been in Portland where there was a 4G signal) but that didn't really explain not recognizing the SIM Card. After replacing the SIM card, he handed me the phone with a nice bright 4G icon. I was not even aware Tallahassee had gotten a 4G signal. My phone actually rang in his hand, which was truly the first call I'd received in weeks. I took the call, thanked him profusely and chatted all the way to the car and headed for home (a whole mile from Big Red) - except the call dropped as soon as I turned into the neighborhood, less than 1/2 a mile from the main highway. A hard reset did nothing. Removing and re-seating the SIM card does nothing. With my new found knowledge I set out to see if there had been any issues with the new 4G upgrade, and guess what I found....a press release announcing the 4G LTE expansion effective September 20. Exactly when my problems started...to the day. So more research led me to the Phone Info app to turn off 4G, but that hasn't helped either.
I literally re-start the phone 25-30 times a day, and pull the battery about as many times on top of that. After days of literally watching the phone continuously, I realize that the network connection does not seem to drop if I'm using the screen, no matter how long (at least while the battery lasts), or while it's plugged in to the charger - which makes me think that when the phone goes to sleep, the radio does too. But there is no way that the timing of the 4G expansion is merely coincidence...so now what???

Have you Made Sure that you PRL is up to Date if it not that can cause Issues Call customer Service and have them Look over your Account if you need to Escalate it to were you can Talk to a Tear 3 Tech Do that & Have them check You PRL and since your phone is 4G Doing a *228 is not Necessary) One other thing installing Sim Cards can be a bit Tricky as they need to Handles by there Edges if the Gold area is Touched in any Way it can Cause serious Implications to phone as all of the Information is Store on the Sim to make the Phone Work) I have to 4G phones and i have Not had and issue with Either one of My Maxx's on my First one i bought i got it 9 months and i have not had the Sim out since installing my self..
So you might Check those Two things and Hopefully your Phone returns to operating as it Was intended for.. b33

PE 11 does not recognize Sony HDR FX1000

Windows 8.1 recognizes the camera attasched via Firewire, but PE 11 does not recognize it. Menu setting on camera is automatic and iLink out.

Continuing saga on quality of rendered project when burning to Blu-ray.
When I play back my video through my 65inch HD TV being fed directly from the Sony HDR FX-1000 the video looks HD quality. I import the files inot my project from the camera as HDV 1080i 29fps (as recorded) frame size 1440 x1080, HD Anamorphic (1.333)
Field Order--- Upper Field First followed by Reverse Field Dominance. PE 11 then codecs and saves the files to MPEG2. When I finish editing.... I select Blu-ray and then burn the disc. The quality is less than than the playback of the raw footage on HD TV. Seems to loose quality from the raw tape footage. If you really want to say poor quality.... try to burn that saved peoject as a regular DVD,,,, I did that for a relative because they did not have a Blu-ray DVD player.
My computer has no problems rendering.
Intel DP55KG MOBO
Intel i7 CPU [email protected]
16 GB RAM
Win 8.1 64 bit
Additional question.... what would be the best settings to make a Blu-ray quality slide show using a Nikon D800 Raw files?
Thanks,
Ron

Cant capture hdv from my sony hdr-sr12 onto fcp 6.0

Hi. I recently got a sony hdr-sr12e hd camcorder and i am trying to edit some footage i filmed over christmas. However when I come to click on log and capture i get a message saying:
Unable to Initialize Capture Device
Device is not connected or the capture preset is not setup correctly. You may still log offline clips.
This might also happen if you play DV footage in an HDV device.
I used to use a canon mv630i video camera if that helps?
Would really appreciate any help because I want to get editing again!
2.4GHz core 2 duo processor
200GB Harddrive
Thanks

Two suggestions in this thread: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1870782&tstart=0
There are hundreds more if you do a search.

Capture HD video in Final Cut Express with a Sony HDR-FX7

When try to capture a video from my new Sony HDR-FX7 using the HD Format Apple Intermediate Codec 1080i60 the preview screen never shows the video being captured. In fact the video is never captured. Any suggestions to how set the 'Easy Setup'? When I try to capture with NTSC format the software keeps looking for a timecode that it will never find thus stops within a minute of starting. I would love to capture some video from my new Sony HDR-FX7 but not having much luck tonight. Have any helpful hints?

First, trash your preferences. Setting different incorrect settings and opening the capture window is a good way to corrupt the prefs files. HDV AIV 1080i60 is the only one to use if the camera is correctly set to output HDV.
Please give your full system specifications, what computer, what drives, how everything's connected, what settings are on the media (you really did shoot HDV?), and finally what version of the software, of the OS, and of QuickTime are you using?

My 4G LTE (really 3G HDR) Saga

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