My camera acts as it is shooting in low light, but it is middle of the day.

Camera opens normally, then acts like I am shooting in low light.  Tried power down, no improvement.

Sounds like a hardware failure. Make an appointment at the genius bar of your local Apple Store. There is no magic that can fix a hardware failure.

Similar Messages

  • OT: Free Shooting in Low Light Lecture

    Howdy,
    For those of you in the Los Angeles/Hollywood area tonight (November 8, 2006) I will be giving a free lecture on shooting in low light situations at Moviola starting at 7:00 p.m. At the break I'll be more than happy to answer all of your Aperture & photography questions
    There will be two other speakers covering photography working non-destructively and the bitmap photograph.
    victor

    It's unlikely you have an issue.  What you're experiencing is not enough light hitting the sensor from a very small lens, while moving that lens in low light.  It's the limitations of the hardware.

  • I'm shooting great white screen but when I key out the white background, I have a very thin white outline around my person that I don't know how to soften without loosing some facial opacity. Any suggestions?

    Hi,
    I'm shooting white screen and FINALLY have my lighting, white balance, exposure and focus making a great looking, crispy clip! But when I key out the white background in a short segment, I'm left with a very thin, white outline around my person that I don't know how to soften, without loosing facial opacity. I only tried using the 'Edges' tool. Any suggestions?
    Thanks!

    set the wake-on lan on the main computer
    The laptop's too far away from the router to be connected by ethernet. It's all wifi.
    No separate server app on the laptop, it's all samba
    The files are on a windows laptop and a hard drive hooked up to the windows laptop. The windows share server is pants, so I'd need some sort of third party server running. Maybe you weren't suggesting to use Samba to connect to the windows share though?
    I'm glad that you've all understood my ramblings and taken and interest, thanks The way I see it, I can't be the only netbook user these days looking for this kind of convenience, and I certainly won't be once chrome and moblin hit the market.
    Last edited by saft (2010-03-18 20:38:08)

  • HT204370 I have been away for a while and have returned to itunes. I paid for a movies, James Camerons Avitar and would like to se it again , but cannot find it as the web page has changed

    I nneed to restore a Movies that I paid for on Itunes
    It's James Camerons " Avitar  ""
    How to you finf your downloads with this new )to me) web Page

    You don't find it on here, if the film is still in your country's iTunes store and if you are in a country where films can be redownloaded (and if the studio allows redownloading) then you should be able to redownload it via the Purchased link under Quicklinks on the right-hand side of the iTunes store homepage on your computer's iTunes
    If you can't redownload it then have you got a copy of it on your backup of your downloads ?

  • Low-light Cameras

    Hey Everyone,
    As camera and sensor technology has advanced, so has the ability of digital cameras to record in lower light without an external light source. In the past if you wanted to capture a useable image in low-light conditions you would have to use flash, strobes, or in a pinch you could use hot-lights.
    Sensors have really come a long way. Modern Backlit CMOS sensors allow far more light to actually reach the photosites that capture the image, and because of this the data needs far less amplification. These types of sensors should produce images with far less digital noise while shooting at higher sensitivities. Over the last couple of years I have seen cameras with much higher selectable sensitivity to light (this is called the camera’s ISO).
    Another feature that’s become better-and-better  over the years, which also helps out in shooting in low-light situations, is image stabilization. Basically Image stabilization shifts either the lens elements, or the sensor itself, to compensate for any movement on the part of the shooter. This really does help out while shooting in low-light.
    If you really intend on shooting a lot in low-light the best thing you can do is get a camera with the above features, but also one that uses a large sensor. While most point-and-shoot cameras do a much better job in low-light than they used to, there really is no substitution for a physically large sensor of a DSLR or Compact System Camera when shooting under low light levels.
    Happy Shooting,
    Allan|Senior Social Media Specialist | Best Buy® Corporate
     Private Message

    Allan-BBY wrote:
    If you really intend on shooting a lot in low-light the best thing you can do is get a camera with the above features, but also one that uses a large sensor. While most point-and-shoot cameras do a much better job in low-light than they used to, there really is no substitution for a physically large sensor of a DSLR or Compact System Camera when shooting under low light levels.
    I think the biggest low-light accomplishment is how modern cameras are able to capture starlight and galaxies with the right lenses.
    While sensor size is important, choosing lenses with large apertures also helps to minimize sensor noise.  Look for lenses with f/2.8, f/1.8, or f/1.4 designations.
    Of course you can just cheat.  Nikon's SB-910 or a Quantum bare-bulb works wonders in challenging light conditions.
      http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Nikon+-+Speedlight+SB-​910+Flashlight/4675495.p?id=1218505325342&skuId=46​...
    Note, many compact cameras are now shipping with larger sensors.
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8dVE9gu96A

  • Best camera for low light and sports

    have the sx200is
    looking for a newer camera for sports and low light shots

    The challenge with sports is that you are REALLY pushing the camera gear to it's limits.  Fast action requires fast shutter speeds.  But fast shutter speeds demand a lot of light and only outdoor games played during the daytime have that.  Indoor games or games played under field lighting at night generally do not have the kind of lighting needed to shoot with fast shutter speeds -- not the kind of shutter speeds needed to freeze action.  So this ends up demanding a camera with excellent ISO performance and lenses with very low focal ratios so they can collect a LOT more light when the shutter is open.  This gear is expensive.
    You will want to consider a reasonable budget depending on what you can afford and the needs of the specific sports.  
    Are these indoor or outdoor sports? If outdoors, are these played during the day or are they night games?
    The "best" camera for sports and low light is the EOS-1D X.  It has phenominal low-light performance, has an amazing focus system,  and can shoot at 12 frames per second.  But it's about $6800 for the "body only" and then you still need lenses.  I'm guessing this is probably not what you had in mind.  But if money were not a constraint... this would be the one to go for.
    The 5D III is another amazing camera for low light performance and and also has an amazing focusing system (largely the same as the 1D X) can shoot at 6 frames per second, and only costs $3500... again, that's the "body only".  Still probably not what you had in mind.
    The 70D has an extremely good focus system (though not as good as the 5D III and 1D X), not quite as good as low light (but pretty good and much better than a point & shoot camera) and shoots at 7 frames per second (1 fps faster than  5D III) and it only costs $1200 for the body only.
    The T5i will be noticeably less expensive than the 70D... a good (but not extremely good) focusing system and 5 frames per second, but the body and 1 kit lens combined is about $850 but that wont a lens suitable for use shooting sports so you'll still need to invest in more appropriate lenses.
    When shooting action photography in low light, what you _really_ want is a lens that can collect a lot more light than the average lens for that very brief moment when the shutter is open.  Such a lens can allow you to use a faster shutter speed to help freeze those action shots.  But *which* lens you use depends on the sport.  
    For low-light sports, these would ideally be f/2.8 zoom lenses... but f/2.8 zoom lenses are not cheap.  Canon's EF 70-200 f/2.8L IS USM (ideal for most indoor sports and outdoor sports IF the action is happening close to you) is about $2500.  Sigma's lens is about half that price.  But if you're covering action on a large athletic field and the players are far away, they'll still be small.  Sigma makes a 120-300mm f/2.8 zoom for sports... for the low low price of only $3600.
    Scott Kelby does a video to talk about sports photography and he discusses the equipment used and why... and basically says if you want the gear for shooting sports, you basically need a suitcase full of money.
    Tim Campbell
    5D II, 5D III, 60Da

  • Low light camera issue

    http://youtu.be/ibR_mFxOIuw
    when i take a low light picture my screen flashes white.  is this normal? it happens in night scene. also  i thought this camera could take images in darkness  but i can barely take pictures is low light. my subjects are very dark. My i phone 4s does a better job side by side with my lumia in low light. how is this possible. i cant even return it to att for another replacement because my 14 days is up and all they will do is send me a used phone. **bleep**. This is my second lumia 920  as the first had a battery issue. Im done .Im about to sell this thing on ebay and get a iphone. After 2 weeks nokia has ruin the wp8  experience for me. im so **bleep**.

    That white flash you're seeing is most likely the autofocus assist light (i.e. uses the dual LED's next to the camera). In low light, it is suggested to turn the flash off anyway. It is normal behaviour. If you are still having problems, perhaps take your phone to a Nokia Care point instead. to locate your nearest Nokia care: http://nokia.com/suppot
    And as this is a user to user forum only, you can contact Nokia directly to leave feedback by clicking the Contact Us link at the bottom of this page.

  • Ipod touch 4g camera looks..Grainy/static/fuzzy/blurry in low light

    i got a brand new 32gb ipod touch and the picture is terrible in low light but outside its ok, i was in my room with my moms 3rd generation iphone and my 4th generation ipod and her iphone had better quality when i took a picture of my poster, mine looked grainy and hers was just dark, any one know if this is supposed to be like this?

    There are several (hundred?) apps that can help the pic look better by adding more light to pics you have already taken. photoshop and camera flash come to mind. There are many more.

  • How do I add a new camera so I can still shoot in RAW? my new camera is not recognised.

    Hi! I have Photoshop Elements 11 and I started with a Canon 1000D, I was able to shoot in raw, then convert my images to JPEG for sharing.
    I have since upgraded cameras and when I upload a RAW file off my camera card, it immediately makes a copy of the photo in JPEG and I can only access that one, the program tells me that my camera is not recognised by PSE 11.
    Can somebody please direct me to the right location to change the camera model, so that I can once again shoot in RAW?
    Thank you!!

    Which camera are the camera raw files from?
    Which operating system are you using?

  • I use a mac ios and shoot raw in a cannon 5d mark ii and shortly upon import of my images lightroom darkens and changes my images. This has happened before but not every time. The strange part is my last shoot had the same camera setting but this did not

    I use a mac ios and shoot raw in a cannon 5d mark ii and shortly upon import of my images lightroom darkens and changes my images. This has happened before but not every time. The strange part is my last shoot had the same camera setting but this did not happen. The images i have now i can not use after lightroom has automatically altered them even if i try editing back to how they looked upon import

    First thing to do is to change the default camera profile applied in Lightroom to camera standard (assuming that you shoot Canon or Nikon). Also make sure that your camera is NOT set up to use any of the HDR modes. Nikon calls those Active Dynamic Lighting. On Canons you often see things like highlight priority mode or "Auto Lighting Optimizer". Make sure that the picture style is set to standard and that for newer Canons the HDR mode is turned off. Most of the HDR modes simply underexpose the image and then add an instruction in the raw file to compensate for this to prevent highlights from being blown out. This causes more noise in the shadows and if you know what you are doing there is no point to this as you should simply expose correctly and get the highest quality raw.
    Lastly, make sure that in Lightroom you have not checked "Apply Auto Tone Adjustments" in Preferences->Presets. This should make the default rendering of the raw files the same as the in-camera jpeg (what the camera shows on the back even if you shoot raw) but still give you all the latitude of raw files.

  • My camera is not able to shoot words written in books after ios 8 update in iphone 4s

    my camera is not able to shoot small words.

    I can't make that happen. It may very well be a bug in iOS, or something could be wrong with your iPhone. The only way for you to be certain is to compare what you're attempting to photograph with someone else's iPhone 4s. If an Apple Store is convenient to you, have them evaluate it.

  • I am testing a Sony a7r, shooting RAW.  I can't seem to import the files (which are .awr) into my Lightroom 4. Anybody know what options I have?  Thanks!

    I am testing a Sony a7r, shooting RAW.  I can't seem to import the files (which are .awr) into my Lightroom 4. Anybody know what options I have?  Thanks!

    Support was added by Adobe for this camera model in LR 5.3 and ACR 8.3. see the link below.
    Camera Raw plug-in | Supported cameras
    You can download the latest trial version of LR 5 the current version is 5.7.1 and use tor 30 days.
    The other option is to download the latest Adobe DNG Converter (version 8.7.1) for free and convert the Sony .arw files to dng format and they will work fine with LR 4.
    Make sure you retain the original copies of the .arw files.  

  • Which camera body next for sports and low light?

    All: I have that bug to get another Canon body.  I have the opportunity to get a 7D for a little over $400, but is this the camera for me? I have gone from the Canon XTI to the Canon 60D.  I love the 60D and thought of getting a 2nd body to keep the camera stuff (charger, batteries and SD cards) simpler and convenient.  But I have been thinking of upgrading, if I am going to look for a 2nd body.  I shoot a lot of low light and sports (soccer, basket ball and baseball mostly).  To help with the low light, I upgraded my telophoto lens from a Tamron AF Aspherical XR DI LD(IF) 28-300 that is great for outdoors, but struggles a little inside.To upgrade that, I bought the Canon Zoom Lens EF 70-200mm 1:2.8 L. This lens took care of my low light indoor problem with school concerts. In reading a little, they say the 7D is the way to go.   But it is the first series, not the 2nd.  Does that really matter? Instead of reading for hours, days and weeks, can some of you shed some light on what you think?  I am also trying to stay in a reasonable budget of less than a $1000.  Don't tell the wife I have the bug.  That I will worry about after I decide what might be right. I look forward in hearing from the forum and I thank you ahead of time for your feedback and suggestions.    

    All: I have that bug to get another Canon body.  I have the opportunity to get a 7D for a little over $400, but is this the camera for me? I have gone from the Canon XTI to the Canon 60D.  I love the 60D and thought of getting a 2nd body to keep the camera stuff (charger, batteries and SD cards) simpler and convenient.  But I have been thinking of upgrading, if I am going to look for a 2nd body.  I shoot a lot of low light and sports (soccer, basket ball and baseball mostly).  To help with the low light, I upgraded my telophoto lens from a Tamron AF Aspherical XR DI LD(IF) 28-300 that is great for outdoors, but struggles a little inside.To upgrade that, I bought the Canon Zoom Lens EF 70-200mm 1:2.8 L. This lens took care of my low light indoor problem with school concerts. In reading a little, they say the 7D is the way to go.   But it is the first series, not the 2nd.  Does that really matter? Instead of reading for hours, days and weeks, can some of you shed some light on what you think?  I am also trying to stay in a reasonable budget of less than a $1000.  Don't tell the wife I have the bug.  That I will worry about after I decide what might be right. I look forward in hearing from the forum and I thank you ahead of time for your feedback and suggestions.    

  • Shooting in very low light

    I am experimenting with night-shooting, and there is a tree in my yard that I would very much like to photograph. There is a porch light on it, and I can see it very well.  I have learned about 'bulb' shooting in manual mode, and have used it in other low-light situations, but for some reason I can't get the camera to fire.  It focuses and then the square in the view-finder turns red, rather than green.  I think it's really important to note that I can see this tree just fine.  So why can't my camera?
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    Use low ISO values to reduce noise.  You can perform noise reduction with some computer software (my favorite is Noiseware Pro by Imagenomic.)  But keep in mind that noise reduction in software also has the side-effect of softening the image (and if you go too far it looks like people have "plastic" skin.)
    Tim Campbell
    5D II, 5D III, 60Da

  • I want to enter the info specific to my camera and lens into the lens corrections options in P'shop 2014 and L'room 2015 but they're not on the list. (Nikon D-750 with 24-120 lens). How do I fix this?

    I recently upgraded from a Nikon D-7000 to a D-750 with the Nikkor 24-120 mm lens but they aren't on the list of options in either P'shop or Lightroom under camera and lens profiles. Since every tutorial I viewed on the 24-120 lens suggested fixing the distortion issues in P'shop, how do I make the choice without those specific products being on the list? (P'shop 2014, L'room 2015)

    A few do shoot in JPEG...I definitely do not!
    You're welcome!

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