My cd burning doesn´t work

Suddenly my burning device doesn´t work, it appears some errors but I can read music cds..What can I do?

If Allan Eckert's suggestion doesn't work, try
Intel-based Macs: Resetting the System Management Controller (SMC)
<http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964>

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CD burner doesn't work

I've just tried to burn two CDs, in the way I have always done; buy opening 2 Finder windows, & copying the album across to the window with the CD in it, & clicking 'Burn', Suddenly this doesn't work; I get a CD which shows wierd letters in the window of my CD player - like 'AO 1' - & nothing plays. Does anyone have any ideas? I absolutely hate burning Cds via iTunes, as it is completely stupid - you cannot burn directly from albums; you have to move the album to a pointless 'playlist' first (which I will never play as I will always play the original album - doh).

hi there-
the first thing i would do is go to utilities > disk utility and repair permissions. then boot to the install disk and repair the disk. http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=106214 if it still isn't working, then try doing the combo update for 10.4.8 available here. http://www.apple.com/support/downloads/ good luck. [ 8 ) ]

My disc reader/burner doesn't work, the disc gets ejected

Hello, I am trying to burn a movie created in imovie and exported to iDVD burned onto a DVD, but I just realized the burner is not working. It makes some reading noises and it ejects the discs. I have rebooted the computer, tried different discs, tried to put music disc and nothig. I am not sure if it is a problem with my machine and if I should take it to apple. At the same time, I really need this project burned so I put the iDVD project into my portable drive and inserted into a mac book to see if I could burn it there, but it says that the file is incomplete... Now I will try to create a disc image and see if the would work transfering it into a portable device and into another computer..
I would appreciate so much your guidance I am lost! Thank you

Hi, the DMG is a great idea to try.
On the iMac, you might try one of those head cleaning Discs, or...
Have you done a PRAM reset, CMD+Option+p+r...
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1379
In fact, do 3 in a row, takes a bit of time.

Lenovo Slim USB Portable DVD burner doesn't work

This burner works fine on all my colleagues lenovo thinkpads but won't work on my Yoga. Very frustrating! Any suggestions

Hello,
Is the external DVD drive plugged into two USB ports on the computer? One USB port may not provide enough current to power the drive.
Regards,
Aryeh Goretsky
I am a volunteer and neither a Lenovo nor a Microsoft employee. • Dexter is a good dog • Dexter je dobrý pes
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I can no longer burn CDs - "may be incompatible with this disc burner, try slower speed, try another make of disc" Still doesn't work

I can no longer burn CDs - "may be incompatible with this disc burner, try a slower speed, try another make of disc" Tried that, still doesn't work.

Try a free burning utility which allows you to turn off the laser for test burning (so you don't waste media). Try burning a test CD outside of iTunes. If it works it's iTunes. If it doesn't work it could be computer software or hardware but then we know how to proceed.
List of burning software on pure-mac.com - http://www.pure-mac.com/diskfile.html
Burn - http://burn-osx.sourceforge.net/Pages/English/home.html - includes basic DVD authoring

Burned in Nero Express through Windows, doesn't work on Mac

So I just burned a Data DVD (files like music and mac applications) on Windows, using Nero Express, but then I mount it on my Powermac G5 PPC and it doesn't work, my mac doesn't recognize it, what's the problem ?
Thanks.

Did you close the disc, or leave it open for further burning sessions?

TA44597 I'm trying to put playlist onto cd. My computer has built in cd rom/dvd player that doesn't work, I purchased an external dvd rom which plugs into my computer via usb. iTunes recognises when I have inserted a cd to play but will not burn to it.

I'm trying to put playlist onto cd. My computer has built in cd rom/dvd player that doesn't work, I purchased an external dvd rom which plugs into my computer via usb. iTunes recognises when I have inserted a cd to play but will not burn to it. help!

Portsian wrote:
I'm trying to put playlist onto cd. My computer has built in cd rom/dvd player that doesn't work, I purchased an external dvd rom which plugs into my computer via usb.
Is it also a CD/DVD burner? Or is it kjust a CD/DVD player?

Subtitle doesn't work when i burn a DVD

Hi
I have made my own video and added subtitle in encore (manually).
I press preview and every things seems to work.
But the dvd im burning doesn't have subtitle at all.
I have made a menu with 3 different subtitle, but nobody works.
i will bee very great full if somebody know how to fix this.
:D i am using encore cs3 ;)

>I have made a menu with 3 different subtitle, but nobody works.
Could you describe how you set up the menu/buttons for the subtitles? Maybe it helps to check this tutorial:
Create a multilingual DVD

Burned DVD - menu doesn't work

I'm fairly new to all this and have created a slideshow in iMovie and then created a DVD in iDVD. In iDVD it all works (there is just one menu item). But when I burn to disc image (or even burn a dvd) the menu link doesn't work - it just starts over the main screen. However, with the mac dvd player if I go to the menu, I can access it through "title".
HELP!
Many thanks!
bchina

Try closing iDVD and trashing the file called com.Apple.iDVD.plist located in User/Library/Preferences. iDVD will create a new file upon relaunch. Then repair permissions using the Utilities/Disk Utility app on your Mac. After deleting coded assets, try burning again.
When you burn again, I would burn from a disk image rather then directly from your iDVD project. Open your iDVD project, Delete Coded Assets from the Advanced menu, and save your project as a Disk Image on your hard drive. The assets will re-encode, taking a little time. Play the disk image with your computer's DVD Player application and see if the menu button works on the disk image. If it does, your initial problem might be caused by bad media. Burn a new DVD disk from the disk image at 4x speed, using Verbatim or Maxell DVD-R disks. See if that works.
Hope this helps.

My Ipod touch 2nd gen. was working fine but when I tried to charge from my PC the Ipod start getting too hot and the screen turn black and doesn't work anymore.Maybe is burn?

My Ipod touch 2nd generation was working fine until I tried to charge again from my PC,when I connected the Ipod was getting too hot and smelling like burn cable,the screen turn black and doesn't work anymore. any ideas about what happen?

You can try here:
iPod touch: Hardware troubleshooting
However, from your discription, I suspect that something is broken. Maybe a dead battery. In that case. I would make an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store and see what they say.

I have tried to update for the newest itunes download and it says a error has occured and won't finish the download. I tried burning a cd and playing a dvd but it doesn't work.

I have tried to update for the newest itunes download and it says a error has occured and won't finish the download. I tried burning a cd and playing a dvd but it doesn't work.

iTunes help : https://discussions.apple.com/community/itunes/itunes_for_mac

Caps lock burn keyboard doesn't work

Hey guys,
do you know what is wrong with my macbook (MAC OS X,10.6.6) the key caps lock burn and it won't to turn off and the all keyboards doesn't work?
Is it possible that that caps lock and this problem with all keys are connected, keyboard doesn't work from when this caps lock burn. ?.
I dont know what to do...
do you know?
Thank a lot for some advance!
m.

Hey reandel,
I'd check out the recommended troubleshooting steps within the following document:
One or more keys on the keyboard do not respond
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1381
Welcome to Apple Support Communities!
Best,
Delgadoh

I get an error message when I start up itunes. It says the registry settings for burning are missing and to reinstall itunes. Well I have done that and it doesn't work! Help

When I run diagnostics I get error 43 telling me to repair install itunes and that doesn't work either.

I'd start with the following document, with one modification. At step 12 after typing GEARAspiWDM press the Enter/Return key once prior to clicking OK. (Pressing Return adds a carriage return in the field and is important.)
iTunes for Windows: "Registry settings" warning when opening iTunes

My new iPhone 4 doesn't work at all

You are definitely not alone with your issues. I'm on my second iPhone 4 unit, and am still having the same problems. I've had proximity sensor insanity, battery draining after 8 hours of stand-by (NO USE, just sleeping) to the point that my phone goes into a coma and has to be plugged in to be revived, the grip of death dropping calls....
But the single most irritating and infuriating problem is the signal strength/reception fluctuation. I share a house with two iPhone 3Gs users, and I had an original silverback iphone until July 2010. They all work fantastically well with no issues when I'm at home (where I am just about 24/7, since I work from home). *_My new iPhone 4 doesn't work at all.*_. Signal strength is all over the place. I did a test where I sat watching the bars showing signal strength for five minutes. In that time, I saw it switch from E (edge?) with full bars to 3G with full bars to 3G with 1 bar to 2 bars to 4 bars to 1 bar to "Searching." Then back to 3G, with degradation of bars from 3 to none, then E network appears again, this time with full strength. This all with the phone sitting on a table, not being touched by human hands.
It seems that my iPhone is constantly switching actual physical networks, and as a result signal strength is all over the place from one 30 second period of time to the next. This drains the battery like crazy, and means that all incoming calls go to voicemail--usually without my phone ever ringing.
The 3G phones in my house work great. The 1st G iPhone I have had since the week it came out worked great (though its battery doesn't hold much of a charge anymore, after three years). On my new IP4, games are awesome. The videos and photos are amazingly clear and high quality, and editing on the phone is out of sight. iPhone Apps rule. MobileMe syncs my contacts quickly and easy. The only thing I love more than the iP4 features is my iPad--it rocks.
Everything works on my IP4 at home BUT THE ACTUAL TELEPHONE FUNCTIONS. This is unacceptable. In late August, after two weeks in which I had 4 minutes of phone use, the nice folks at the Apple store switched me to a new phone, no questions asked. The phone worked so much better, I could send texts and place calls most of the time (this was now the first part of September)...except that now that I was using my IP4 to make phone calls, I started having a problem with the proximity sensor during those calls. I'd be talking and my cheek would mute the phone, turn on speaker, open contacts and edit info (with gobbledygook), and of course, hang up on people.
So around Sept. 18 I was told by Apple phone support to update to iOS 4.2, restore as new, and do two complete power up and drain down cycles. This would fix the proximity sensor and any other issues.
Well, I would love to see if iOS 4.2 actually did fix the PS, but I can't get the signal strength to stabilize long enough to have an actual phone conversation. I'm back to watching the signal strength go up and down at random (with me touching/holding it carefully to avoid grip of death, and also when I leave phone on the table with screen lock off --no touching). It is back to switching between E network and 3G and varying strengths of wi-fi from my home network. This eats up battery from 100% to low enough to turn off in under 10 hours of standby (usually 6-7). Essentially, my IP4 is back to being unusable as a phone.
So I did another long, involved call to Apple tech support on 9/18. They tell me that I have to turn off wi-fi, turn off 3G, turn off push/fetch and notifications, shut all apps (no multi-tasking) and do everything but switch my phone to airplane mode--and see if the battery holds up for 24 hours in standby. If that didn't work, I should restore from new, but not load any contacts or network or data or anything--just leave it as it would be out of the box new.
As a test, I turned everything off as advised: 3G, wi-fi, push, etc. Now my battery life is back to normal, where I can have the IP4 on stand-by for up to two full days before needing a recharge. Fabulous. BUT IT'S NOT A SMART PHONE if I have to turn off 3G, turn off wireless, and not use email push and so forth.
I'm so frustrated I could scream. I'm quickly coming to the conclusion that there is a significant flaw in the new iPhone. Or perhaps it is just an issue for iPhone 4 users in areas where the signal strength is marginal, or where there are two types of overlapping network coverage (E and 3G in my case). I know that the networks themselves are in good condition--though I'm in a semi-rural area, the state capital is 4 miles away, and I know they have a new tower and good coverage for the politicians and power brokers around town. The phone coverage area I live in has Edge network in the south part of the network area and 3G in the north part, which is the state capital. I'm right in between. Could this be the problem? AT&T says no, it's Apple's fault.
Message was edited by: HighSierra

So what to do besides complain? Troubleshoot?
I just wonder if all of us who have had chronic signal strength and "Searching for network" issues that totally drain the battery might have something in common, despite being all over the world? I'm using wi-fi 95% of the time, and live in a semi-rural area with overlapping networks run by same carrier. Apple folks hinted that maybe in my area the network usage is nearing capacity (resulting in getting kicked off of 3G and down to E as new calls are placed that strain capacity). They also hinted there could be interference from mountains or other objects. But here's the thing--3G phones work fine, and my IP4 works fine when I'm away from home, usually in the capital city on strong 3G network. (When I say "works fine I mean the signal is good and calls go through, I haven't tested battery drain away from home yet).
I have to conclude that the problem is the IP4 itself--something about the hardware or the software (namely, the way it connects to the phone network) is horribly wrong. Other folks who live in urban areas or with strong networks that (likely) aren't over-utilized don't seem to have this issue. After reading through these pages, it also seems the wi-fi may be a major culprit in draining the battery and in varying signal strength (this is from Apple phone support, which said that varying signal strength and the constant pinging off the home wi-fi is creating a "power struggle" and keeping the phone constantly looking for the best connection option). Mind you, 3G iphones on the same home network have no problems whatsoever.
So while I'm not a technical expert, it seems like the problem HAS to lie in the differences in the way the IP4 connects to the cellular and/or wi-fi network. And since the connection/signal strength problem was "resolved" on my replacement phone, but then "broken" again by the software update of iOS 4.2, I'm leaning toward this being a software issue. I've offered to help Apple troubleshoot, and I'm trying to be patient--because the IP4 is a work of art and I've never had an issue with an Apple product before. But all they want me to do is restore, restore, reload, restore, and then drive 1 hour to the nearest Apple store (in Reno, NV) and get a new phone...and start the whole process over again. I don't have time for this, I need my phone back.
I'm this close to trading in my beautiful but flawed IP4 for a 3G. Maybe I should just get a new battery for my original iPhone from 2007?
I understand that Apple can't test for every possible variable of use all over the world, but they don't even seem to acknowledge that they have a problem with the IP4 that will not be resolved by replacing it with a new unit. They want me to believe it's a fluke, or it's just me...but I've been combing these threads and see a lot of people reporting the same issues I am--battery drain and wildly fluctuating signal strength issues, wi-fi problems, and dropped calls. Can't someone get on this? Because otherwise Apple is going to have to admit that their IP4 is not a good solution for people who live in areas of less than perfect signal strength or use wifi or whatever demonic combo I have in my home/work setting.
Or people will have to do what I have done--if you who want the cool IP4 non-phone features, you will have to dumb down your IP4 in order to have it be even moderately useful as *a phone.* For $599 I expected better.
My (temporary) workaround?
To spare the battery:
*Turn off wi-fi (which *****, because now I have to burn minutes when I'm at work using the email, downloads, safari, etc--and it's E network, so it's SLLOOOOOOOW)
*turn off push and fetch, have mail get new messages manually
*turn off data roaming
To keep the signal somewhat stable (making it easier to complete calls and spare battery)
*Turn off 3G (this leaves me on E network--fabulous, I had that with my 3 year old iPhone)
*grip IP4 between two fingers placed at the top of the phone, away from death zone. Tough for us lefty phone users.
*pray the free bumper will a) come soon and b) help. I'm not optimistic.
To keep proximity sensor from going nuts and dropping calls, muting, turning on speaker etc:
*use headset or bluetooth (unless you are also having one of the known bluetooth issues!)
*keep phone pressed to one ear and don't move it a millimeter. Don't shift sides, don't hold phone with your shoulder, just keep it to one ear and talk fast).
I'm about out of patience. I understand that lots of folks have and love their IP4s. I'd love to be one of those people. I'm open to suggestions and have spent many hours on phone with tech support, restoring my phone, reloading data and apps--there has to be a better way.
Sorry for the thread-jacking, but someone from Apple has got to be following these threads--help us!
null

Time Machine Just Doesn't Work Anymore

I was a happy Time Machine (with Time Capsule) user for months. But it just doesn't work anymore. It takes longer than an hour to do every hourly backup so it is backing up 24 hours a day. It finds hundreds of thousands of files changed every hour and tries to back them up. Finders says only tens of files have been modified all of today. I have tried rebuilding my spotlight indexes, repairing my Time Capsule with Disk Utility and starting over with a brand new backup. But it just backs up hundreds of thousands of files every hour. So I am turning off Time capsule since it is clearly broken. If anyone has any suggestions at all I would welcome them.

Marcia,
Consider the following, it might give you some ideas:
Time Machine performs backups at the file level. If a single bit in a large file is changed, the WHOLE file is backed up again. This is a problem for programs that save data to monolithic virtual disk files that are modified frequently. These include Parallels, VMware Fusion, Aperture vaults, or the databases that Entourage and Thunderbird create. These should be excluded from backup using the Time Machine Preference Exclusion list. You will, however, need to backup these files manually to another external disk.
One poster observed regarding Photoshop: “If you find yourself working with large files, you may discover that TM is suddenly backing up your scratch disk's temp files. This is useless, find out how to exclude these (I'm not actually sure here). Alternatively, turn off TM whilst you work in Photoshop.” (http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1209412)
If you do a lot of movie editing, unless these files are excluded, expect Time Machine to treat revised versions of a single movie as entirely new files.
If you frequently download software or video files that you only expect to keep for a short time, consider excluding the folder these are stored in from Time Machine backups.
If you have recently created a new disk image or burned a DVD, Time Machine will target these files for backup unless they are deleted or excluded from backup.
Installing new software, upgrading existing software, or updating Mac OS X system software can created major changes in the structure of your directories. Time Machine will backup every file that has changed since the installation.
Files or folders that are simply moved or renamed are counted as NEW files or folders. If you rename any file or folder, Time Machine will back up the ENTIRE file or folder again no matter how big or small it is.
George Schreyer describes this behavior: “If you should want to do some massive rearrangement of your disk, Time Machine will interpret the rearranged files as new files and back them up again in their new locations. Just renaming a folder will cause this to happen. This is OK if you've got lots of room on your backup disk. Eventually, Time Machine will thin those backups and the space consumed will be recovered. However, if you really want recover the space in the backup volume immediately, you can. To do this, bring a Finder window to the front and then click the Time Machine icon on the dock. This will activate the Time Machine user interface. Navigate back in time to where the old stuff exists and select it. Then pull down the "action" menu (the gear thing) and select "delete all backups" and the older stuff vanishes.” (http://www.girr.org/mac_stuff/backups.html)
*TechTool Pro Directory Protection*
This disk utility feature creates backup copies of your system directories. Obviously these directories are changing all the time. So, depending on how it is configured, these backup files will be changing as well which is interpreted by Time Machine as new data to backup. Excluding the folder these backups are stored in will eliminate this effect.
*Backups WAY Too Large*
If an initial full backup or subsequent incremental backup is tens or hundreds of Gigs larger than expected, check to see that all unwanted external hard disks are still excluded from Time Machine backups.
This includes the Time Machine backup drive ITSELF. Normally, Time Machine is set to exclude itself by default. But on rare occasions it can forget. When your backup begins, Time Machine mounts the backup on your desktop. (For Time Capsule users it appears as a white drive icon labeled something like “Backup of (your computer)”.) If, while it is mounted, it does not show up in the Time Machine Prefs “Do not back up” list, then Time Machine will attempt to back ITSELF up. If it is not listed while the drive is mounted, then you need to add it to the list.
*FileVault / Boot Camp / iDisk Syncing*
Note: Leopard has changed the way it deals with FileVault disk images, so it is not necessary to exclude your Home folder if you have FileVault activated. Additionally, Time Machine ignores Boot Camp partitions as the manner in which they are formatted is incompatible. Finally, if you have your iDisk Synced to your desktop, it is not necessary to exclude the disk image file it creates as that has been changed to a sparsebundle as well in Leopard.
Let us know if any of this helps.
Cheers!

My cd burning doesn´t work

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