My computer came back from apple, the computer doesn't recognize the hard drive, or let me login, what's wrong with it?

It doesn't recognize me

I just experienced this exact same issue with my early 2011 15" macbook pro. Since like a month after purchasing it I had issues with the screen randomly going dark on me. I sent it in for repair inder waranty they replaced the gpu and logic board but I continued to have the same issues with the screen randomly going black sometimes I would need to reboot it in order to get the screen to go back on but it happened so infrequently and I used the computer for school so disnt find the time to resend it in to apple. Just last night the screen started to display the blue screen with black verticle lines on it. I called apple and explained to them the issues that had been ongoing since I purchased the laptop but they said because I was now outside of warantee that any repairs at thia point wouldn't be covered. Fml so glad I spent 2200 on this future proof macbook pro what a joke my sister purchased a toshiba laptop for 300 4 years ago and it still running like a champ. I loved my macbook but at the price I paid I expect it to last longer than 2 years before leaving me high and dry. *** apple??

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Is it the hard drive? and battery? What's up with my specs? 3 threads?

My battery had not been fully recharging for a while. For weeks, it would "max out" at a lower percentage, lowering incrementally pretty much weekly. No, I am not eligible for the recall.
One fitful night, I came home to a shut down computer. When it powered on, I heard a very loud hard drive and saw a prohibitive sign, the "no smoking sign" as I called it. After several such attempts, I went for the included in purchase CDs, which I hadn't seen since I bought it/
I can start from the restore CD and have faced some varying results.
Most of the time, I can't see the hard drive as an option to install Mac Os X 10.3 ish. Once, I was able to see and select the hard drive. All got stuck after it told me that I would have to change installation options since I had a newer version of Mac Os X. (I read in maxoshints that someone uses his freezer and toaster to manipulate temperatures in order to rescue data from Mac hard drives.)
Both Startup Disk and Disk Utility saw the hard drive that one time since the fitful night.
An Apple store "Genius" had agreed with me that the hard drive was busted, but now I can see 74.5 GB TOSHIBA MK8025GAS in the list on the left. It does not show any volumes under it, like the 3.9 GB CD does (iBook Software). I can "info" and see that it even has a device tree.
I cannot drag and drop to Restore. RAID and Partition do not seem to apply.
Erase seems my best option and it seems to have been able to "write zeros" but not "8 track randomize."
...I am now trying to "partition" and I can see the progress bar waving, not progressing. Clicking on other tabs makes them flash, but not dominate the window. I am able to use the menu bar and quit, which prompts me that I am interrupting. The screen fades and the computer stops making noise after a long time, but still no progress.
Please advise. What should I do? What can I do? I have begun trying to learn about hard drives, but find the technology convoluted. I can't sort out my choices.... for example, when I try and look up my specs, I can't find an A1054 on apple's website. There's a M9623LL/A .
I'm typing this on a M9846LL/A, which is actually an A1133?!!?
The A1054 is a refurb, but the A1133 is not.
Bonus points for helping me understand, progress toward goal of working computer!

Welcome to the Apple Discussions!
My battery had not been fully recharging for a while. For weeks, it would "max out" at a lower percentage, lowering incrementally pretty much weekly. No, I am not eligible for the recall.
Besides your other issues, it may simply be time for a new battery. The batteries not only have a limited number of complete charge cycles, they also have a shelf life that could expire even if you've never used it. Here is a little bit of information from Apple on batteries:
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
As far as your hard drive is considered, I'm guessing you don't have an AppleCare Protection Plan? It really does sound like the hard drive is failing. Have you started up from your Apple Hardware Test disk yet and run the extended tests?
If you decide to replace your hard drive that's out of warranty, you just need a 2.5" IDE/ATA hard drive that's less than 9.5mm tall. (This is a standard configuration for notebooks.) While it's possible to install yourself, it's quite the operation and you may want to take your iBook to an Apple Authorized Service Provider to do it for you. Or you might consider sending your iBook in to a service like MCE Technologies to do it for you.
-Doug

My internal hard drive isn't being recognized on my macbook pro but when I put the HD in my Mac Pro (desktop), the desktop computer recognizes the HD. When I insert the installer CD on my laptop, it also doesn't recognize my hard drive. Please help!

My internal hard drive isn't being recognized on my macbook pro but when I put the HD in my Mac Pro (desktop), the desktop computer recognizes the HD. When I insert the installer CD on my laptop, it also doesn't recognize my hard drive. Please help! Thank you!
I've also been getting an image with the folder and question mark. I've tried everything on the apple support page but it doesn't seem to work either.

Well, I tried all of your suggestions and they didn't work -- no surprise because I was trying to backup to my external c.d. disk. Duh! The application for the home is in the mail.

Has Apple ever fixed the fan issue that results from upgrading the hard drives on 2009-2010 iMacs?

Has Apple ever fixed the fan issue that results from upgrading the hard drives on 2009-2010 iMacs?
My CPU fan defaults to 3000RPM. I can rev the fan higher with 3rd party Fan controllers, but no lower than 3K.

OR you can short out the original temp sensor, to make the fans rev at quieter speeds.
You can also install an optical temp sensor in place of the old one, it will still read temps and adjust the fans accordingly, just not as good as an internal sensor.
Use something like this:http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-922-9229-Cable-Temp-Sensor-Optical-iMac-27-inch-Late -2009-2010-/111106349896
Another fan speed control app you may be interested in: http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/
Good Luck!

My mac is running slow, the spinning beach ball constantly appears. it seems that when i am in the apple store with fast wifi its a bit better. genius at the apple store checked the hard drive, it's all fine. what can it be?

my mac is running slow, the spinning beach ball constantly appears. it seems that when i am in the apple store with fast wifi its a bit better. genius at the apple store checked the hard drive, it's all fine. what can it be? can it be a software issue with the wifi?
also i noted that it has only been doing this since quite recently, before it was fine
please help!

First, back up all data immediately, as your boot drive might be failing.
Step 1
This diagnostic procedure will query the log for messages that may indicate a system issue. It changes nothing, and therefore will not, in itself, solve your problem.
If you have more than one user account, these instructions must be carried out as an administrator.
Triple-click anywhere in the line below on this page to select it:
syslog -k Sender kernel -k Message CReq 'GPU |hfs: Ru|I/O e|find tok|n Cause: -|NVDA\(|timed? ?o' | tail | open -ef
Copy the selected text to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C.
Launch the Terminal application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Terminal in the icon grid.
Paste into the Terminal window (command-V). I've tested these instructions only with the Safari web browser. If you use another browser, you may have to press the return key.
The command may take a noticeable amount of time to run. Wait for a new line ending in a dollar sign (“$”) to appear.
A TextEdit window will open with the output of the command. Normally the command will produce no output, and the window will be empty. If the TextEdit window (not the Terminal window) has anything in it, stop here and post it — the text, please, not a screenshot. The title of the TextEdit window doesn't matter, and you don't need to post that.
Step 2
There are a few other possible causes of generalized slow performance that you can rule out easily.
Disconnect all non-essential wired peripherals and remove aftermarket expansion cards, if any.
Reset the System Management Controller.
Run Software Update. If there's a firmware update, install it.
If you're booting from an aftermarket SSD, see whether there's a firmware update for it.
If you have a portable computer, check the cycle count of the battery. It may be due for replacement.
If you have many image or video files on the Desktop with preview icons, move them to another folder.
If applicable, uncheck all boxes in the iCloud preference pane. See whether there's any change.
Check your keychains in Keychain Access for excessively duplicated items.
Boot into Recovery mode, launch Disk Utility, and run Repair Disk.
If you have a MacBook Pro with dual graphics, disable automatic graphics switching in the Energy Saverpreference pane for better performance at the cost of shorter battery life.
Step 3
When you notice the problem, launch the Activity Monitor application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Activity Monitor in the icon grid.
Select the CPU tab of the Activity Monitor window.
Select All Processes from the View menu or the menu in the toolbar, if not already selected.
Click the heading of the % CPU column in the process table to sort the entries by CPU usage. You may have to click it twice to get the highest value at the top. What is it, and what is the process? Also post the values for User, System, and Idle at the bottom of the window.
Select the Memory tab. What value is shown in the bottom part of the window for Swap used?
Next, select the Disk tab. Post the approximate values shown for Reads in/sec and Writes out/sec (not Reads in andWrites out.)
Step 4
If you have more than one user account, you must be logged in as an administrator to carry out this step.
Launch the Console application in the same way you launched Activity Monitor. Make sure the title of the Console window is All Messages. If it isn't, select All Messages from the SYSTEM LOG QUERIES menu on the left. If you don't see that menu, select
View ▹ Show Log List
from the menu bar.
Select the 50 or so most recent entries in the log. Copy them to the Clipboard by pressing the key combinationcommand-C. Paste into a reply to this message (command-V). You're looking for entries at the end of the log, not at the beginning.
When posting a log extract, be selective. Don't post more than is requested.
Please do not indiscriminately dump thousands of lines from the log into this discussion.
Important: Some personal information, such as your name, may appear in the log. Anonymize before posting. That should be easy to do if your extract is not too long.

HT5622 My Ipod Classic shows a red circle with a cross in the middle. I've completed diagnostic tests which have popped up, however any HP/FW/Hard Drive tests freeze the ipod, as if the hard drive won't spin. What do I do?

My Ipod Classic shows a red circle with a cross in the middle. I've completed diagnostic tests which have popped up, however any HP/FW/Hard Drive tests freeze the ipod, as if the hard drive won't spin. What do I do?
After holding down the Select and Play/Pause button, I was able to restart the Ipod and then it brought me to a Diagnositc test. I have tried doing both the Mannual and Annual test on the ipod however in each test, the ipod freezes on different access tests. The HP (headphones) test, shows the headphones are detected, but then if it tries to play a song to make sure they work it freezes and goes back to the red cross. I have looked at various other questions regarding the FW cable, however I don't believe i have such a cabel. Then the Hard Drive test freezes up and I can hear a ticking noise coming from the drive but it doesnt seem to be spinning. Alongside these test issues, any computer cannot see the Ipod when plugged in (including itunes). Therefore some tests for the USB drive cannot be completed. I do not recall dropping it badly, though I have dropped it previously. Does all this mean there is damage to the drive? Should I instead take it to an apple store?
Many Thanks

The stats look fine. Try the DFU Restore method shown in Corrupt iPod classic. It may pay to disable any anti-virus software and use the staged transfer method to reload data, assuming you get that far.
tt2

I have a MacBook Pro 2007 and I installed Mac OS 10.6 but I lost power in the process and now the mac doesn't recognize my hard drive

I have a MacBook Pro 2007 and I installed Mac OS 10.6 but I lost power in the process and now the mac doesn't recognize my hard drive, how can I fix this

I've tried it but since I'm using a USB disk drive it keeps freezing up or showing you a folder blinking folder with a question mark. (?). When I start the mac up I hold the control button until the Mac OS install disk shows up. My hard drive doesn't show up anymore. Is there any other button I have to hold down to bring a different menu up. I have also tried to boot up holding control and C and nothing happens. Thanks for the help so far

When I'm in roaming I can't see identification of incoming phone number which I have already in my phonebook. When I came back from roaming the problem stayed. I tried "Reset All Settings" option, but without results.

When I'm in roaming I can't see identification of incoming phone numbers which I have already in my phonebook. When I came back from the roaming problem stayed the same. Now I can't see the name of any incoming number which I already have in the phonebook. I tried "Reset All Settings" but without results. I have iPhone 4S and latest IOS version 5.0.1

You can try to powe off your iphone and power on again.

When mac wakes from sleep, the hard drive wakes but the screen is black

It's a problem I've been having off and on for quite a while with my ~2010 MacBook Pro. Sporadically/randomly, when I wake my computer from sleep or turn it on, the status light turns on and the hard drive makes sounds like it's on, but the screen stays black. The only way to get it on again is to manually hold the power button to shut if off and start it up again. Sometimes, the same issue reoccurs when I restart it and I have to manually restart it 5 or 6 times until it finally turns on normally, or I just get tired and give up. I've had everything done at the genius bar, from getting a new hard drive to running diagnostic testing. Nothing works. Any suggestions??

Reset SMC. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
Choose the method for:
"Resetting SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own".

Computer won't recognize external hard drive.

I think I messed up my hard drive trying to reformat it. When I plug it in it is not detected by finder or disk utility. It is recognized however by the system profiler. What can I do to fix this issue so that it can be mounted and reformatted?

Maybe some more information on my part will help:
The hard drive is recognized by both Disk Utility(DU) and System Profiler.
In the top of the left-hand list section of DU, my HD appears as '74.5 GB Generic USB Disk...' Also, underneath this heading is a subheading 'Shupa,' which is the name I gave my HD. It currently has the blank white page as it's icon, but when i run the 'verify disk' and 'repair disk' functions on the '74.5 GB...' the Shupa icon goes to the orange HD icon . I am not able to run the verify and repair disk functions on 'shupa,' I get this message "Verify volume failed with error Could not unmount disk."
Thanks ahead of time.

The Toshiba website doesn't recognize my hard drive's serial number and P/N

Hello,
I bought my Toshiba Canvio Basics 3.0 hard drive from Amazon a little under two months ago. The hard drive stopped working for some reason (I didn't drop it or anything, it just stopped working).
I was of course trying to use my warranty to fix it or exchange it, but the Toshiba website doesn't recognize my serial number and product number. They're right there, black and white on the sticker on the back of my hard drive, but the website says they're invalid.
Anyone has any clue what's going on? I'd rather not throw 50 euros out the window for less than two months of use.
Product number is HDTB105XK3AA -- and not HDTB105*E*K3AA as some websites say (including Amazon).
Thanks for your help.

Just adding to the above comments, I have a simialr issue. bought a 3gb drive from amazon and now 8 months later it has just stopped working (wont power up at all) again it has just sat new to my computer working fine for the last 8 months and has now just stopped.
I contacted amazon and got this reply from the seller:
"Hi Jack,
Thanks for your e-mail and apologies for the problems with your laptop. Your laptop comes with a 1 year manufacturer warranty directly with Toshiba so they should be able to resolve this for you. Their customer contact number is 0333 222 7444 or if you prefer to go online the Toshiba Computer Support website (http://www.toshiba.co.uk/innovation/generic/computing-support/) has full contact/ e-mail options.
Kind regards,
Customer service Team"
So came here to try and find more details but cannot find the model or anything regarding warranty, any assistance glady recieved

I have denied all access to the hard drive on my i mac what can i do to be able to use it again

I have denied all acess to the hard drive on my Imac I purchased a refurbished imac about 6 months ago and im still not really familiar with every thing as i used to use a windows computer so ill try my best to describe what i have done. On the desk top it had a hard drive icon I open it. There was a section about allowing access. There were three different ones (now Im not exactly sure but i believe it looked something like this
System     Read and Write
                Read only
               Write to drop box
User
                Read and Write
                Read only
               Write to drop box
Shared     Read only
               deny access
I then changed the bottom one to deny access, the middle one to write to drop box and then the top one to write to drop box ( I quickly realized how stupid this was) It then wouldn't let me do or open anything. I ended up turning it off by pressing the button on the back of the I MAC. When I turned it back on it asked for my password which i entered, then it went to the screen with the apple in the center and the loading icon underneath and has not changed.
What can i do so i can use it again?
I think it was OS 9.5.? I dont really know and cant even access this info anymore

in the folders on the left your will have your mail account and local folders.
Anything in local folders is stored only on your local hard disk.
* Right click the mail account. Select settings
* Select copies and folders for your university account
* Click archive options and select the type of structure you want the archive in. (keep existing folder structure would be important to you think)
* in the copies and folders, change the archive folder to other and select the archive folder for local folders (the local folders account entry in the list will expand if you hover the mouse over it)
Now some other points. ''
* Holding shift while clicking select everything in the list between clicks. Holding Ctrl while clicking will hold the selections and allow other entries to be toggles on and off by clicking them.
* Ctrl+A will select the entire list
Finally''
Pressing the A key when mail is selected archives it.

How do I acces the hard drive on my Macbook air as a target with out firewire

My Macbook air boots to a blue screen. Can I connect to another Mac via USB or etherent to access the hard drive? I did a disk repair through the disk utility but that did not solve the start up issue.

Clone it using Carbon Copy Cloner. Here's the link:
http://www.bombich.com/
Then to move it to the MBair and boot the Air holding down the Option key between the startup tone and the Logo / pinwheel.
The boot manager will start and then select the external drive as the boot device.
First some qualifying questions:
1. What OSx release is on your other Mac.
2. What MBair do you have.
I want to make sure the OS you're going to clone is more recent then the OSx that your MBair originally shipped with.

I'm looking to but the iMac 27" with 2TB Serial ATA Drive 256GB Solid State Drive . Will time machine automatically back up both the hard drive and the solid-state drive? Ae there any catches or things to be aware of?

Will time machine on Lion, Mac OS 10.7, automatically back up both the internal hard drive and the internal solid-state drive both inside a 27" iMac?

Also, you may find this of interest
TM 101
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1427

How do you create a bootable back up of the hard drive w/ disk utility?

I think it's pretty incredible that the most basic of basic topics, how to create a back up of your hard drive using the native software Disc utility, is nowhwere to be found. I tried searching "create bootable back up" and amazingly enough nothing comes up. Anyway.... can anybody let me in on this top secret information, I would really appreciate it. Once again the objective is to make a bootable clone of my hard drive onto an external disk. Thanks for the help,
-BK

    Are you saying I could still use Disk Utility's Restore function to clone a 90GB startup drive, that had 40GBs used, to a clean 60GB backup drive?
Correct. The size of the source drive is completely irrelevant – as Kappy is saying, it's just the size of the data to be copied that counts. (An explanation that some people like is that "empty space is not copied").
    I've always used a dedicated backup drive that was larger than my startup drive
Nothing 'wrong' with that, but unnecessary. Same size would be large enough for any future possibility. Theoretically, if you had a 250GB internal drive but knew that you would never have more than 20GB of data on it, a 40GB backup drive would be considerably more than sufficient (a bit of a silly example, but true). Other considerations: 1. you already know about the 15% free space recommendation, and 2. with drives, 'bigger' is nearly always a better investment for the future. I would always advise someone about to buy a drive to multiply the size they were thinking of by at least 4.
    always reformatted and zeroed it
Again not 'wrong', but overkill. A simple 'erase' (2 seconds) would suffice – erased is 'clean' enough. Consider that those, like myself, who do "synchronized" backups (copying only added or changed items for the saving of time) NEVER erase the target, or just once in a blue moon. If your backup drive is stationary on your desk the chances of it developing another bad block are close to nil. The time when a re-zeroing (mapping out of bad blocks) becomes imperative is immediately after the cat knocked the drive onto the floor! We are in the main talking here about a software solution (the mapping) of a hardware problem, physical imperfections on the surface of the disk.
=-=-=-=-
Regarding 'other stuff' on the backup/target drive, our suggestion for CCC users is:
[Note that this is NOT for the situation where the target is to be erased every time.]
    For your first cloning you should find a temporary home for that stuff on the external drive so that you can prepare the drive correctly [instructions…] After that you can move that 'other stuff' back onto the external drive.
    If you absolutely cannot find the needed 'temporary home' you can proceed anyway but you must take responsibilty for any consequences due to inadequate preparation of the drive (e.g. not 'zeroing' it to map out any bad blocks) – you should be OK but it is a question of luck. For subsequent clones, and for this first one if you wish to proceed, you do not need to move that 'other stuff' if you do as follows…
    You have to ensure that the clone will not interfere with that other stuff. Put all that 'other stuff' into a folder (with sub-folders as you desire) on the target (at root level, i.e. what you see when you dbl-click on the disk icon) and give that folder a unique name, i.e. a name which you know you will never use on your source drive. If you did have such a folder on the source the cloning would make the folder on the source overwrite the one on the clone, so choose the name with some thought. (How about: "Nevercall_methis"? ;=))
A dedicated backup drive is, beyond doubt, to be highly recommended as the best arrangement. 'Other stuff' on that drive is possible, easily 'do-able', but is often the cause of complications at some stage. (Buy another drive! ;=)).
"Buy another drive" is not just me being facetious. If you data is vital to you, you should have TWO backups on different drives. Consider this: while you are cloning/backing up, you actually have NO backup – a power outage and all, source and backup, could be lost at the same time – unlikely but not impossible. I do hate to be a harbinger of gloom, but…
Happy cloning! ;=)
Moderator, forums.bombich.com

My computer came back from apple, the computer doesn't recognize the hard drive, or let me login, what's wrong with it?

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