My early 2011 MacBook Pro 15" non-glare display has developed a dark band at the edges of the screen approximately the same width as the aluminum surround. This wasn't present when the MBP was new. Am near an Apple Store, but anyone else had this problem
My early 2011 MacBook Pro 15" non-glare display has developed a dark band at the edges of the screen approximately the same width as the aluminum surround. This wasn't present when the MBP was new. I'm near an Apple Store and can take the laptop in, but has anyone else had this problem?
Thanks for your input. I didn't completely flesh out what I'm seeing visually. The resolution settings are all correct for my screen. The problem is if, say, looking at the gray startup screens or a completely white full-screen image, there is a perimeter of graying, almost as if the LEDs are somehow not as bright as the rest. It's also curious that the thickness of this phenomenon is almost exactly the same as the metal bezel around the display. I will be taking it to an Apple Store for a look, as I'm also having several minor hardware problems that need to be addressed and remedied.
Similar Messages
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Early 2011 Macbook Pro shuts off when charger unplugged. Worked fine yesterday.
Hi,
I have an early 2011 Macbook Pro, which I purchased brand new; it's just over one year old. Yesterday the laptop held a charge no problem for 6 hours or more. Today, when I disconnect it from the charger it goes to sleep. When I plug it back in and press the power button it wakes up, and I can use it.
This cannot be a battery issue, since it was holding a charge without trouble yesterday. Does this appear to be a serious issue? My one year warranty expired 2 months ago yesterday, and I had forgot to purchase AppleCare. Sigh. It almost seems like surgically-planned obsolecense or punishment for not purchasing AppleCare.
I would immensely appreciate any help/suggestions on this.
Thanks.OK, in that case:
Reinstall OS X without erasing the drive
Do the following:
1. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your Snow Leopard Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
2. Reinstall Snow Leopard
If the drive is OK then quit DU and return to the installer. Proceed with reinstalling OS X. Note that the Snow Leopard installer will not erase your drive or disturb your files. After installing a fresh copy of OS X the installer will move your Home folder, third-party applications, support items, and network preferences into the newly installed system.
Download and install the Mac OS X 10.6.8 Update Combo v1.1.
Upgrading to Lion or Mountain Lion will not solve the problem. -
I took my Early 2011 MacBook Pro into the local apple store and they ran their GPU test, and my Mac actually passed it. The Apple employee then ran a hardware test and the logic board, battery, and optical drive showed problems. The Genius told me about their flat rate $310 repair deal, and I am going to take advantage of it...
Today when I am able to boot up my mac it loads very slow (showing a beachball during start up) and then the window we get when pressing Command R shows up asking me to press enter for English, and then after that it shows options like Disk Utility, Restore from Time Machine backup, Reinstall OS X, and Get online help options...
I erased my drive (Crucial SSD) and restored from Time Machine backup, and I am still having this issue... Please help.Kappy hi, thanks again. I wiped the drive, reinstalled OS X, and transferred from Time Machine backup... Seems to be working better somewhat. I will just have to pay for flat rate repair for Apple to fix everything wrong, and hopefully it will perform like new... Again thank you.
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Hi,
I have an early 2011 MacBook Pro. I use Premiere Pro CS5 to video edit on. It's fine but when it comes to grading it's nearly impossible on such a small screen.
I'd like to buy a 27inch external monitor (Asus, Samsung, Dell, whatever - haven't decided yet) for when I'm editing at work (which is most days). My query is regarding the resolutions. Obviously my MacBook Pro displays a resolution of 1280x800, so if I buy a monitor with a resolution of 2560x1440 for example, what gets displayed?
And also does the connecting cable make any difference? For example, if I'm connecting by Thunderbolt out to HDMI, then an HDMI to HDMI cable to the external monitor, what happens then? Or should I be using a Mini Display Port to Display Port connecting lead?
I guess all I really want to know is, will it work? But also, am I wasting my money buying an external monitor with a 2560x1440 resolution? Should I just go for one that's the same res at my MacBook Pro?
I've never really understood how these things all work!
Thanks in advance for anyones help.
Regards,
PhilI think it will work. You would need a mini displayport to (single link) DVI adapter to hook up that monitor.
Not sure what kind of problems you had with the ViewSonic but I'm guessing the Dell is probably a better monitor anyhow. -
I have an Early 2011" macbook pro 13 inch (core i5 2.3ghz 4gb ram 320hdd) with Mountain Lion 10.8.2, and I want to connect it via Mini DP to HDMI connector, and a HDMI cable to a LCD TV LG 32LD340. When I had Lion OS, I had no problems at all.
If you have an external drive equal to or larger than your internal HD, clone your internal to it with either Carbon Copy Cloner or Super Duper. Test the clone to make sure it's bootable. Then upgrade either one. Try it out first.
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Early 2011 MacBook Pro incredibly slow after installing Mavericks
I'm really hoping someone can help me out. As per the subject line, I installed Mavericks on day one (and learned my lesson!).
Since installing Mavericks my MacBook Pro runs incredibly slow. If I open the Mail App and Safari - it almost grinds to a halt. I have the "Memory Clean" App which I now have to run constantly (it appears to help a little) and I try to only launch one app at a time where possible, but it's not really pratical.
As an aside, my MacBook ran really well with Mountain Lion, so there's little doubt to my mind that Mavericks is the culprit.
I'd be eternally grateful for any help & advice :-)
I spotted other people advise running EtreCheck, here are my results:
Hardware Information:
MacBook Pro (13-inch, Early 2011)
MacBook Pro - model: MacBookPro8,1
1 2.3 GHz Intel Core i5 CPU: 2 cores
4 GB RAM
Video Information:
Intel HD Graphics 3000 - VRAM: 384 MB
System Software:
OS X 10.9.1 (13B42) - Uptime: 0 days 0:13:54
Disk Information:
Hitachi HTS545032B9A302 disk0 : (320.07 GB)
EFI (disk0s1) <not mounted>: 209.7 MB
Macintosh HD (disk0s2) /: 319.21 GB (33.32 GB free)
Recovery HD (disk0s3) <not mounted>: 650 MB
MATSHITADVD-R UJ-8A8
USB Information:
Apple Inc. FaceTime HD Camera (Built-in)
Apple Inc. Apple Internal Keyboard / Trackpad
Apple Inc. BRCM2070 Hub
Apple Inc. Bluetooth USB Host Controller
Apple Computer, Inc. IR Receiver
FireWire Information:
Thunderbolt Information:
Apple Inc. thunderbolt_bus
Kernel Extensions:
com.globaldelight.driver.BoomDevice (1.1 - SDK 10.9)
net.telestream.driver.TelestreamAudio (1.1.0 - SDK 10.8)
Startup Items:
Jaksta: Path: /Library/StartupItems/Jaksta
Problem System Launch Daemons:
[failed] com.apple.wdhelper.plist 3rd-Party support link
Problem System Launch Agents:
Launch Daemons:
[loaded] com.adobe.fpsaud.plist 3rd-Party support link
[loaded] com.bourgeoisbits.cloak.cloakd.plist 3rd-Party support link
[loaded] com.bourgeoisbits.cloak.cloakproxyd.plist 3rd-Party support link
[loaded] com.google.keystone.daemon.plist 3rd-Party support link
[loaded] com.macpaw.CleanMyMac2.Agent.plist 3rd-Party support link
Launch Agents:
[loaded] com.amazon.sendtokindle.launcher.plist 3rd-Party support link
[loaded] com.google.keystone.agent.plist 3rd-Party support link
User Launch Agents:
[loaded] com.macpaw.CleanMyMac2Helper.diskSpaceWatcher.plist 3rd-Party support link
[loaded] com.macpaw.CleanMyMac2Helper.scheduledScan.plist 3rd-Party support link
[loaded] com.macpaw.CleanMyMac2Helper.trashWatcher.plist 3rd-Party support link
User Login Items:
Boom
PopClip
Caffeine
Fantastical
AppTrap
Dropbox
Alfred 2
Cloak
ScreenFlowHelper
Google Chrome
Internet Plug-ins:
o1dbrowserplugin: Version: 3.18.3.12840 3rd-Party support link
SpeedDownload Browser Plugin: Version: 2.1.5 - SDK 10.6 3rd-Party support link
Default Browser: Version: 537 - SDK 10.9
Flip4Mac WMV Plugin: Version: 2.4.1.4 3rd-Party support link
AmazonMP3DownloaderPlugin101750: Version: AmazonMP3DownloaderPlugin 1.0.17 - SDK 10.4 3rd-Party support link
Silverlight: Version: 5.1.10411.0 - SDK 10.6 3rd-Party support link
FlashPlayer-10.6: Version: 11.9.900.170 - SDK 10.6 3rd-Party support link
Flash Player: Version: 11.9.900.170 - SDK 10.6 3rd-Party support link
QuickTime Plugin: Version: 7.7.3
googletalkbrowserplugin: Version: 3.18.3.12840 3rd-Party support link
npgtpo3dautoplugin: Version: 0.1.44.28 - SDK 10.5 3rd-Party support link
iPhotoPhotocast: Version: 7.0 - SDK 10.8
JavaAppletPlugin: Version: 14.8.0 - SDK 10.9 Outdated! Update
Audio Plug-ins:
BluetoothAudioPlugIn: Version: 1.0 - SDK 10.9
AirPlay: Version: 1.9 - SDK 10.9
AppleAVBAudio: Version: 2.0.0 - SDK 10.9
iSightAudio: Version: 7.7.3 - SDK 10.9
User Internet Plug-ins:
CitrixOnlineWebDeploymentPlugin: Version: 1.0.105 3rd-Party support link
EMusic: Version: EMusic 1.0.0 3rd-Party support link
3rd Party Preference Panes:
AppTrap 3rd-Party support link
Flash Player 3rd-Party support link
Flip4Mac WMV 3rd-Party support link
Hazel 3rd-Party support link
Perian 3rd-Party support link
Bad Fonts:
None
Old Applications:
/Applications/iWork '09
SLLauncher: Version: 1.0 - SDK 10.5 3rd-Party support link
/Library/Application Support/Microsoft/Silverlight/OutOfBrowser/SLLauncher.app
Attachment Tamer Helper: Version: 3.1.2 - SDK 10.5 3rd-Party support link
/Users/derricksutton/Library/Mail/Bundles (Disabled)/Attachment Tamer.mailbundle/Contents/Resources/Attachment Tamer Helper.app
Nisus Thesaurus: Version: 1.1 - SDK 10.4 3rd-Party support link
Amazon MP3 Downloader: Version: INFO_PLIST_VERSION - SDK 10.4 3rd-Party support link
Time Machine:
Skip System Files: NO
Mobile backups: ON
Auto backup: YES
Volumes being backed up:
Macintosh HD: Disk size: 297.29 GB Disk used: 266.26 GB
Destinations:
Seagate Expansion Drive [Local] (Last used)
Total size: 465.44 GB
Total number of backups: 10
Oldest backup: 2013-09-21 16:05:10 +0000
Last backup: 2013-12-31 20:05:10 +0000
Size of backup disk: Too small
Backup size 465.44 GB < (Disk used 266.26 GB X 3)
Time Machine details may not be accurate.
All volumes being backed up may not be listed.
Top Processes by CPU:
28% WindowServer
5% Google Chrome
2% Dock
1% Fantastical
1% hidd
Top Processes by Memory:
135 MB Google Chrome Helper
98 MB mds_stores
90 MB Finder
86 MB Google Chrome
61 MB EtreCheck
Virtual Memory Information:
612 MB Free RAM
1.47 GB Active RAM
601 MB Inactive RAM
1.04 GB Wired RAM
523 MB Page-ins
2 MB Page-outsCleanMyMac is probably your problem.
CleanMyMac is crapware.
Crapware is anything that purports to "optimize", "clean", "accelerate", "monitor", or "protect" your Mac. These apps are unnecessary, poorly written, overpriced (if they were free, they'd still be overpriced), and harmful. The people who sell this stuff know this, but they keep selling it because people keep buying it. They can damage your OS and be difficult to uninstall.
I would try to uninstall it, but if that fails, you may have to erase your HD and do a clean install. -
So I have an early 2011 MacBook pro, I believe it shipped with snow leopard originally, as I purchased and upgraded to Lion fairly early on. I am trying to make a partition right now and have it run snow leopard so I can use programs that have PowerPC.
I should note, I replaced both the RAM and the harddrive in my Macbook pro. I changed from 4 GB of ram (that came shipped) to 8 GB of ram from a 3rd party, that I installed on my own months ago, have registered in the computer and have been working fine for quite some time now.
Also I should note I replaced my harddrive. I went from what ever the standard 500 GB harddrive that shipped with 15 inch early 2011 MB pro's. I now have a 3rd party SSD that's 240GB's that I also installed on my own, (at the same time as the RAM---Black friday items) The harddrive has been working just fine since then.
In installing the harddrive I borrowed a friends external harddrive and used a program called carbon copy cloner to get everything over to the SSD.
Now here is my issue. I have ordered the Snow Leopard (10.6.3) install disks from apple, I have created a partition on my SSD for snow leopard, but when I try to select the install disc for snow leopard at boot I get three beeps.
I know this issue has been posted elsewere but it said answered and the answer is no longer available. I also am unsure if any of the RAM or Harddrive swapping could have been causing the issue. I have the old harddrive and RAM still, but unfortunatley have no external harddrive anymore or money to afford one.
Is there any way I can install a partition that runs snow leopard on my early 2011 MB pro with what I have (new SSD, New RAM, Current version Lion running, no external drive, lack of original snow leopard disks [I lost them ] and the general 10.6.3 snow leopard boot disks).
Let me know If there is anything I can do. I'm a now broke college student so i'd like to spend as little $$$$ as possible
*PS I should also note the DVD drive is working fine, it reads the disk, the disk is brand new, it plays DVD's fine and has never had any issues in the years i've used it for similar tasks*
sorry for the long drawn out post, I just wanted to include as much as possible from what I've seen other people have issues withBrettGoudy wrote:
...Is there any way I can install a partition that runs snow leopard on my early 2011 MB pro with what I have (new SSD, New RAM, Current version Lion running, no external drive, lack of original snow leopard disks [I lost them ] and the general 10.6.3 snow leopard boot disks)...
As the last post suggests, call Apple and order a replacement original disc for about $17. They will ask you the model and serial numbers.
Your retail version of Snow Leopard OS 10.6.3 will not work on that Mac as it requires a minimum of OS X 10.6.7 to boot and operate.
Another alternative is to again borrow another Mac to install your retail Snow Leopard into an external HD or partition, upgrade it to 10.6.8 and then clone it back to a partition on your MBP. -
Early 2011 MacBook Pro- The thermal paste discussion.
It is my goal to clear up the questions and concerns Apple customers have been having regarding heat or fan related concerns with Early 2011 MacBook Pros. If your MacBook Pro was produced within the last few months the thermal issue has been resolved and it will likely not be in issue for you. If you are still wondering if your computer is effected or what the real issue is keep reading.
The MacBook Cools itself by 2 main methods: active and passive. The active cooling is via a fan that blows air through a heatsync and into a tube called a heat pipe which leads to the back of the computer where the hot air is discharged through a vent at the bottom of the screen behind the hinge. The fan lowers the air pressure inside the case causing outside air is drawn in the case, displacing the hot air inside and helping to cool the other components.
The computer uses passive cooling to remove the residual heat from the processor which comes mostly in the form of radiant heat. Passive cooling is also used to cool the other components of the computer (memory, disk drives, battery etc). Passive cooling works by conductive heat transfer ie. syncing to the case of the computer. Some of the heat then is radiated. Some of it is transferred from the outside of the case via convective cooling; the foot pads on the bottom cover are designed to raise it up just enough to allow air underneath for convection to occur. (Convection is the process in which hot air to rises and is displaced by cooler air.) The rest of the heat from the bottom cover is absorbed by whatever surface you have the computer on.
The processor will not sync to the case very much if the board is assembled properly however the other components of the computer will, requiring the case to be in open air to allow for passive cooling to take place.
If you have some sort of covering such as a plastic snap on case it will likely interfere with passive cooling in all of it's 3 of it forms, this will cause the computer to be abnormally hot. I recently saw someone in the Apple store with a MacBook Air experiencing abnormal heating due to a plastic snap case so this particular problem is not unique to MacBook Pros and it is not the cause of the issue being discussed here. I do not recommend the use or anything that covers the computer while it is running with the exception of something that covers the back of the display panel only. If you are worried about your computer getting damaged go and buy a laptop insurance policy from Worth Ave group. The insurance does not cover cosmetic damage or misplaced items but will cover accidental damage including spills. This insurance also covers theft, vandalism and natural disasters, is quite inexpensive and the claims process and deductible is similar to most phone insurance plans (which they also offer).
User induced overheating can also occur when the computer is placed on an improper surface such as a couch cushion, car seat, bed, pillow etc. Doing this can interfere with both passive and active cooling.
As I mentioned earlier In all likelihood if your computer was produced after May it is not affected. I personally have been in posession of 3 MacBook Pros, one produced before May which had the problem, one after which had no problems and one produced more recently that has mind blowing thermal performance way beyond all of my expectations.
So the question at this point is exactly what is the problem, how can it be diagnosed and how can it be rectified.
After extensive research and testing I have determined the issue to be related to improper application thermal paste. I involuntarily became involved in this pursuit as a result of the problems I was experiencing and I did not initially come at from an objective viewpoint but rather one of cautious skepticism. I had anticipated before purchasing my computer that there may be a thermal issue. This anticipaion came as a result of reading an article on ifixit.com about the disassembly of the brand new early 2011 MacBook Pro. When the technician performing the disassembly removed the main heat sync he expressed concern about how much much thermal paste was present, expressing that it seemed excessive. This lead the technician to question wether or not it would cause heating problems.
Proper application of thermal paste is critical to the functionality of the active cooling system and when applied improperly will not properly transfer the heat to the heat-sync which in turn gets cooled by the fan. Proper application of thermal paste insures the heat is removed from the case as efficiently as possible. Doing this both reduces the speed at which the fan needs to run in a lot of situations and prevents too much heat from the processor needing to be cooled by passive means. If is is not applied properly it will eventually lead to overheating of the case as well as the other components of the computer. This can cause damage firstly to the computer's battery and can also significantly shorten the life computer. (Or any other kind of electronic device for that matter.)
The problem can be diagnosed by testing the computer using a program called System Load or any other software that will put your computers proscessor use up to its maximum and keep it there indefinitely. Placing full load on your GPU at the same time during the test is also recommended. Keep in mind, if you are using your computer the fan will spin up if needed for additional cooling. You should expect the fan go up to its maximum speed during the test, it is not in of itself an indication of a negative result. Make sure to have the computer plugged in, fully charged and on a proper surface. A desk or other flat surface should be fine. Exceptions would include the top of a refrigerator since it has insulation just underneath the metal exterior or any surface that is heated by any means such as a dryer or other appliance.
(The temps to follow are in ºF)
Run the test for up to 1 hour. If the case of the computer breaks 93 degrees your unit is likely affected. Expect the unit to even possibly reach temps approaching and exceeding 100º, if this happens immediately abort the test. Also look for the processor temp shooting up to around 180 in the first 30 seconds and the fan spinning up right away. Typically on a properly functioning unit the temperature of the case will end up being somewhere in the neighborhood of 88-91º. If this test is preformed in a room with a normal ambient room temperature of about 68 degrees. Even after an hour the case of the computer should not be significantly hot, just warm to the touch. On a normally operating unit the fan will start to kick in within 90 seconds or so and may not reach full speed even after several minuets.
At one point the case of my computer actually reached 95º during normal web browsing.
This is a problem that I have had successfully corrected twice by reapplication of thermal paste. The first time was on a machine produced prior to may and the second was after a logic board was replaced at the repair depot. (I suspect the inventory turnover is lower for boards than whole computers resulting in a board from the initial production run being installed in my computer.)
If you forget everything I just wrote remember this. #1 if you are using your computer hard enough the fan will end up running at high speed at some point. #2 This problem is not in any way related to the design of the MacBook Pro, or its use/application. #3 This mostly not a problem of the CPU being too hot; these Sandy Bridge CPUs are rated for 212ºf and will routinely be in the neighborhood of 200º, this is hotter than other chips but well within design limits. #4 I have done everything in my power to make sure that this problem has been corrected and I have every logical and evidenced based reason to believe it has been resolved in machines produced after may. #5 This is not an Apple acknolidged issue. Technicians will tell you that there is no problem because these higher temps are normal and within operating limits and if they weren't the machine would shut itself off. (This is a bit extreme; just like a lot of other devices such as electronics, toaster ovens and space heaters with thermal overload protection this automatic shutoff is intended to occur when damage or risk of fire is imminent because the device is WAY outside of normal operating paramaters.) They will also not tell you when asked what these limits are, that they know what they are or in some cases that such figures they even exsist.
I stake my personal and professional reputation on the accuracy of my findings, it is my job as a private consultant to help my clients to resolve complicated and expensive issues just like this one.
Bottom line if you are having a problem and Apple won't fix it on warranty don't ditch your machine, just pay to have it done yourself. In most cases you can pay have it done at the Apple store. It will probably cost you less than 100.00, and it will not void your warranty as long as the work is done by Apple certified technician. It will be well worth it; after all in spite of this MacBook Pro's are hands down the best portable computers on the market, with an industry leading warranty and support to back it up. On it's worst day Apple's service and support is better than any computer/ consumer electronics company, even on its best day.
I hope this helps to clarify this issue! I also hope it will help anyone affected to resolve the problem instead of resorting to a refund and settling for something else.hello all
you can try this:
Go to system preferences > settings > built in display > see bottom of window.
check "show mirroring options in the menu bar when available". then click "airplay display" > and select your device.
That's what happened to my MBP - 15-inch, Late 2011 model. -
Hello! So here are the specs.
I have an Early 2011 MacBook Pro, which came with OSX 10.6.6 by default.
I've lost my installer disk so I though I'd buy a retail one from the online Apple Store, and version 10.6.3 is what they sent me.
Simply running the install OSX app won't work, I get a msg saying:
-- You can't use this version of the application "Install Mac OS X" with this version of OS X. You have "Install Mac OS X" 23.1.1. --
So, I've tried booting from the new disk hoping to erase my current drive and install Snow Leopard, but no can do, I get 3 beeps and have to force shutdown (not RAM related, see below). Laptop works fine when I spare it this maneuver.
After some research I understand 2 things:
1. Only the original installer disk will let me restore factory settings (and I don't have it).
2. I can only install the default OSX (10.6.6) or a later version (that 10.6.3 DVD may not have the correct drivers for my system).
Are these conclusions right? If so, would the Apple Store replace my disk for an updated 10.6.6. one? If not, then what are my options?
Thank you!
References:
http://manuals.info.apple.com/MANUALS/1000/MA1172/en_US/Snow_Leopard_Installatio n_Instructions.pdf
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3910
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht2186
https://discussions.apple.com/message/19444837#19444837
https://discussions.apple.com/message/18085179#18085179
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1163160Phone AppleCare and order the computer's original disks.
(92307) -
I have an Early 2011 MacBook Pro from Early 2011 that is a 13-inch model... why won't it support airplay? why can't I get a software update to allow it to work?
About AirPlay and Airplay Mirroring
AirPlay Mirroring requires a second-generation Apple TV or later, and is supported on the following Mac models: iMac (Mid 2011 or newer), Mac mini (Mid 2011 or newer), MacBook Air (Mid 2011 or newer), and MacBook Pro (Early 2011 or newer). For non-qualifying Macs you can try using Air Parrot.
Several Apple Articles Regarding AirPlay
Apple TV (2nd and 3rd gen)- How to use AirPlay Mirroring
How to set up and configure AirPort Express for AirPlay and iTunes
About AirPlay Mirroring in OS X Mountain Lion
iTunes 10- About playing music with AirPlay
Troubleshooting AirPlay and AirPlay Mirroring
Using AirPlay
Thanks to the $15 Beamer, AirPlay streaming is still possible on Macs that do not support Airplay and mirroring.
Another solution is the Air Parrot. -
I can't get my apple magic mouse to work on my boot camp,running Windows 7 Ultimate on my early 2011 macbook pro with latest Marveric OS........ It works perfectly on the Apple ,
Not sure if this will help anyone, but I had trouble installing on 10.8.
I then found this particular support page:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/softwareCategory?os=4142&lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en&s w_lang=&product=4231205#N228
Be patient with the download, it takes some time ... When it has downloaded, follow the install instructions. It works well.
I use the printer through usb but my wife uses wireless from her PC laptop.
Andre Francis -
What is the best way to transfer apps, contacts, et cetera from one iPhone (3G) and computer (2006 MacBook) to a new iPhone (4S) and computer (early 2011 MacBook Pro)? I have already moved music, among other things using Migration Assistant but I cannot locate contacts or Apps.
transfer just SOME of the applications
it's all or none, i'm afraid. -
Early 2011 MacBook Pro - Pristine Condition - should I buy?
I'm a PC user -- not a conscious decision, just what I started and stuck with because it was easier. I've always salivated at the thought of having a Mac, but it was always cost-prohibitive.
HOWEVER, I' have the opportunity now to buy an early 2011 MacBook Pro -- standard 4GB RAM, 500 HD, non-retina, you MAC users know the specs without me spelling it out. This machine is in pristine condition -- they barely used it. Literally not a scratch on it. I took it for a diagnostic at a local computer repair store and they verified the battery and hard drive were in supreme condition. The seller was originally asking $750, but because she knows me she's willing to come down to my budget of $600. I've checked eBay selling prices and this seems fair especially considering the condition, but I thought I'd check with you experts first. My other real question is, I'm a photographer and would like to use this machine mainly for programs like Photoshop and the rest of the Adobe suite of products -- what kind of upgrades would I have to make to the machine so that those programs would run smoothly? The first things someone suggested was upgrading to 16GB of RAM -- that's an extra $200 right there. Would it be better to look for a newer machine?
Thanks in advance.Well I ran it here:
http://www.mac2sell.net/
Your Computer is a
MacBook Pro unibody 15 inch Intel Quad Core i7 2.00 GHz 4096 / 250 GB / superdrive
The Mac2Sell Quoted Valueis :
870 $
So if it is indeed a 2012 then that's a great deal. Did you verify that it is a 2012? Because there are issues with the 2011s. You can run the serial number here and verify the year:
http://www.chipmunk.nl/klantenservice/applemodel.html
I would at least bump the RAM to 8 GB and install an SSD from OWC:
http://eshop.macsales.com/owcpages/ssd-bootest-mbp-101112.html -
Early 2011 MacBook Pro shutting off all by itself
Early 2011 MacBook Pro 11" shutting off all by itself recently.
I had the logic board replaced 11 months ago because it started to shut off more and more until it refused to boot up again.
Now I am going through the same problem. Is this common?OK, in that case:
Reinstall OS X without erasing the drive
Do the following:
1. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your Snow Leopard Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
2. Reinstall Snow Leopard
If the drive is OK then quit DU and return to the installer. Proceed with reinstalling OS X. Note that the Snow Leopard installer will not erase your drive or disturb your files. After installing a fresh copy of OS X the installer will move your Home folder, third-party applications, support items, and network preferences into the newly installed system.
Download and install the Mac OS X 10.6.8 Update Combo v1.1.
Upgrading to Lion or Mountain Lion will not solve the problem. -
Early 2011 Macbook Pro - Black screen at random
I have an early 2011 Macbook Pro, running Mac OS X (10.7.5). Seemingly at random, the screen will go black and the only way to get it back is to hold the power button down. When it turns back on, everything is running as normal. It's been happening more and more frequently, so I'm wondering is this a problem I can fix on my own? Can it be fixed or is it just a glitch I should just deal with?
(Please explain everything to me as if I were a 5-year-old)Early 2011 15" Macbook Pro.
Add me to the long list of customers experiencing display issues. HUGE problems with a blank screen when waking from sleep and difficulty starting up (video glitches & hi fan speed). After about 6 months and 2 genius bar visits I finally did a complete HD wipe/clean install of Mavericks with all of the default settings.
The situation has improved only slightly overall, but at first things were great. I was confident I had it licked.
As I restored apps & profile settings things start to get wonky. The last install I did was Picasa (I thought this app was the culprit before the wipe). I successfully restored my Picasa settings and all was fine. I even closed the lid and when I opened it the next day the screen came right back on. Then I tried to sync my iPhone and BAM! Screen goes out and the system is hung (no response to keystrokes or sound events).
Power button shutdown.
Restarted and the Macbook hung as the previously opened apps reopened.
Power button shutdown again.
Restart this time was normal and everything opened just fine. The console logs show NOTHING indicate any issues or that the machine experienced a kernel panic or anything like that.
It's been 1 whopping 36 hours since my clean install and I've already crashed twice.
But now I use my Macbook with anxiety as I never know when it's going to crap out again. Maybe it's time I switch back to Linux on an inexpensive wintel laptop as I won't buy another Apple laptop if this is the what I should expect from a $2000 machine.
Incidently, I also have a 2010 MB pro which had dispaly issues and Apple replaced the logic board at no cost (out of warranty) as part of a replacement program. I've seen MANY forum posts suggesting that Apple should step up and provide the same level of service for the Early 2011 MB Pros... I tend to agree.
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