My i tunes print is coming out jumbled up in jewel case mode

my i tunes print is coming out jumbled up in jewel case mode

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https://discussions.apple.com/message/20592308#20592308

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HP Photosmart 6520 not printing when coming out of "sleep" mode

A few months ago I bought an HP Photosmart Model 6520 e-All In One printer. It has never performed properly and I've tried everything I can think of to fix it.
When in "Sleep" mode (how I wish you could just stop it from "sleeping"!!) it seems to just quit. If I send something to the printer and it is in sleep mode, sometimes it will wake up and after a LONG wait print. However, most of the time it will inform me that the printer can't communicate with the computer. At this point I can sometimes get it to print after completely rebooting the printer, sometimes several times. There have been times that even doing this won't work and I have to delete everything in the que and reboot the printer and hurry to get whatever it was I needed printed back into the que.
There have been times that nothing I did would work. I would end the day and leave things in the printer que. Next day, after turning the printer back on..everything starts to print. Well at this point, whatever I needed printed isn't needed anymore.
Waiting even several minutes for this printer to respond is crazy and waiting hours is not acceptable period!! I have no idea why you are not given the option of keeping the printer from "sleeping" at all. If the option is available, there should be some way to opt out of using it.

These settings are for setting up your wireless printer to stay connected to your router, keep wireless devices better connected and makes your router secure and hack proof.
1. Set a static IP in the printer (click here) outside the DHCP range of the router (check your manual). This is for Linksys routers but can be used for all routers. Verify your DHCP range and change this first if needed. More Wireless Printing help is here (Windows solution 4, static IP).
2. Verify in the printer that 'Auto Off/Sleep' is disabled and/or the System Mode Time Out is set to zero (0). Use the Embedded Web Server (EWS) by going to the printers IP address in your browsers address bar, click Settings Tab/Auto Off. Or use the Printer Assistant, Printer Home Page (EWS). Also check your Printers Properties.
3. If the printer supports and has IPv6 enabled, turn off IPv6 in the printer.
4. If needed and you assigned a static IP address, try using 8.8.8.8 for the Preferred DNS server and 8.8.4.4 at the Alternate DNS server.
5. Verify the printer is on the latest firmware by checking with the HP Support site.
In the router: (Refer to your router manual for information)
1. Use a fixed wireless channel like 1, 6 or 11, never 'auto', try channel 1 first then the rest.
2. Set router to 20Mhz only, or 145Mbps depending on router.
3. Always use WPA2-AES (Personal) encryption, but you can try ‘mixed’ mode.
4. Disable WPS and never use it and disable UPnP for the routers security. Nobody can hack your system now and helps with wireless connectivity (if you want to know why, search the web).
5. If you have a dual band router (2.4Ghz and 5.0Ghz bands), make sure the SSID’s are NOT the same, they must be different for all bands, even for any Guest networks.
6. SSID broadcast must be enabled.
7. Save all settings. Power off both, wait 2 mins. Power on router wait 2 mins.
8. Power on printer and verify it reconnects to router.
Windows 7/8/8.1 Is Network Discovery on or off?
1. Control Panel/Network and Internet/Network and Sharing Center/Advanced sharing settings.
2. Under Home or Work (current profile) / Network Discovery.
3. Select "Turn on network discovery" and save changes.
Say thanks by clicking the Kudos Thumbs Up to the right in the post.
If my post resolved your problem, please mark it as an Accepted Solution ...
I worked for HP but now I'm retired!

When is otter box coming out with an iPhone 5c case?

When is the Otter Box Iphone 5c case out? I have checked the past two weeks and it just keeps saying its coming soon?

https://www.otterbox.com/contact-us/contact-us,default,pg.html

Solution found for T400 that will not shutdown after coming out of hibernation or sleep mode

I found out by removing the ThinkPad manager driver (not the ThinkPad power manager), this solves the problem when the T400 goes into Hibernation or standby/sleep mode, but does not completely shut down afterwards.
Apparently there's some kind of conflict with Windows power manager version and Lenovo's ThinkPad manager driver. I left the ThinkPad manager utility as is and that seems to work fine with Win7
Hope this helps for those who have the same issue.

Update:
I had my laptop running on the AC adapter all day.
Then I briefly unplugged it for 2 minutes to carry it to the conference room where I plugged it in again.
Later I unplugged it to bring it back to my desk.
As described in my original post, I was then unable to simply shut down my laptop - it did not shut down all the way, and I had to force it to turn off.
I hope someone here can help me with this, it's a real pain in the neck...
Thanks!

With the new updates for iTunes, I can no longer print a CD case playlist when I burn a CD. It prints in a jumbled mess. I have reinstalled, updated, run diagnostics on my NEW printer, I am out of ideas!

With the new updates for iTunes, I can no longer print a CD case playlist when I burn a CD. It prints in a jumbled mess. I have reinstalled, updated, run diagnostics on my NEW printer, I am out of ideas!

It appears to be a bug with the current build. Hopefully it will be fixed in the next release.
tt2

Color management help needed for adobe CS5 and Epson printer 1400-Prints coming out too dark with re

Color management help needed for adobe CS5 and Epson printer 1400-Prints coming out too dark with reddish cast and loss of detail
System: Windows 7
Adobe CS5
Printer: Epson Stylus Photo 1400
Paper: Inkjet matte presentation paper with slight luster
Installed latest patch for Adobe CS5
Epson driver up to date
After reading solutions online and trying them for my settings for 2 days I am still unable to print what I am seeing on my screen in Adobe CS5. I calibrated my monitor, but am not sure once calibration is saved if I somehow use this setting in Photoshop’s color management.
The files I am printing are photographs of dogs with lots of detail I digitally painted with my Wacom tablet in Photoshop CS5 and then printed with Epson Stylus 1400 on inkjet paper 20lb with slight luster.
My Printed images lose a lot of the detail & come out way to dark with a reddish cast and loss of detail when I used these settings in the printing window:
Color Handling: Photoshop manages color, Color management -ICM, OFF no color adjustment.
When I change to these settings in printer window: Color Handling: Printer manages color. Color management- Color Controls, 1.8 Gamma and choose Epson Standard it prints lighter, but with reddish cast and very little detail and this is the best setting I have used so far.
Based on what I have read on line, I think the issue is mainly to do with what controls are set in the Photoshop Color Settings window and the Epson Printer preferences. I have screen images attached of these windows and would appreciate knowing what you recommend I enter for each choice.
Also I am confused as to what ICM color management system to use with this printer and CS5:
What is the best ICM to use with PS CS5 & the Epson 1400 printer? Should I use the same ICM for both?
Do I embed the ICM I choose into the new files I create?
Do I view all files in the CS5 workspace in this default ICM?
Do I set my monitor setting to the same ICM?
If new file opens in CS5 workspace and it has a different embedded profile than my workspace, do I convert it?
Do I set my printer, Monitor and PS CS5 color settings to the same ICM?
Is using the same ICM for all devices what is called a consistent workflow?
I appreciate any and all advice that can be sent my way on this complicated issue. Thank you in advance for your time and kind help.

It may be possible to figure out by watching a Dr.Brown video on the subject of color printing. Adobe tv
I hope this may help...............

Help, i am trying to print my JPEG file that i created in photoshop at a photo lab but it is coming out like an X-ray. I have printed these files before so i have no idea what i am doing wrong.

Help, i am trying to print my JPEG file that i created in photoshop at a photo lab but it is coming out like an X-ray. I have printed these files before so i have no idea what i am doing wrong.
Could it be something i have done in my settings?
or when i am saving the file to JPEG?

Basically you're approaching this the wrong way around. What you need is the extreme sections to be quieter, not louder. The problem with moving the lower end of the audio is that you'll move the noise floor too, and get what's generally referred to as a 'pumping' effect. So what you do is to use a compressor to tame the peaks, and leave the lower level sound alone. When you've done that, you amplify (or normalize to a level you can determine) the whole signal. So the noise floor will be higher, but constant and not pumping. 'Match Volume' is a completely different tool for setting the overall levels of different tracks so that they sound approximately the same - it doesn't even begin to do what you want.
If it's music you are treating, then I'd almost certainly use the multiband compressor, because you get less artefacts with this. You need to experiment with the threshold levels, and almost certainly not use a massive compression ratio - 3:1 or 4:1 should be sufficient (although it's hard to tell without actually hearing the audio). You can tell what it's doing at any given point because the downward meter indicates how hard it's working. In theory you can apply make-up gain with it as well, but personally I leave that until everything's treated and use the 'Normalize' tool to set an absolute max level.

Just purchased a Photosmart Plus B210a cannot print a black & white photo, coming out green.

Just purchased a Photosmart Plus B210a cannot print a black & white photo, coming out green.
This question was solved.
View Solution.

This would indicate your magenta ink is not printing properly. Try the troubleshooting steps in this page.
Bob Headrick, HP Expert
I am not an employee of HP, I am a volunteer posting here on my own time.
If your problem is solved please click the "Accept as Solution" button ------------V
If my answer was helpful please click the "Thumbs Up" to say "Thank You"--V

Why are my prints coming out blurry

i am trying to make 8x10 prints of my edited work and they are coming out pixelated...what is this image size feature? do i need to adjust the numbers to get a better quality print?

Is your monitor calibrated and profiled with a hardware device? If not, all bets are off - it's always going to be a bit hit and miss as to how prints look compared to any particular program. However, if you're not using colour management (with printer profiles) then here's one thing that may make Lightroom print more like Epson software. When you print in LR, in the "Print Job" settings (bottom right of print module), try setting (in Color Management) the profile to sRGB (probably sRGB IEC61966-2.1). First time, you'll probably have to choose "Other..." and find sRGB from a long list.
By default, LR sends images to the printer in ProPhoto colour space, and non-managed printer driver software often won't cope (resulting in dark desaturated prints). Force LR to send the image in sRGB and it's more likely to be about right.
Also see http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/colour_management/prints_too_dark.html and http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/stuff/?p=1361

Problems printing to Samsung M3870FW from MacBook Pro: Why is it coming out faded?

My MacBook Pro (OS X 10.6.8) is connected wirelessly to a Samsung Multifunction ProXpress M3870FW. It is a black-and-white laser printer, and when it prints, the document comes out faded grey and slightly pixelated instead of coming out sharp and black. I thought there was something wrong with the printer, but when Samsung laptops print to it, it comes out just fine. The same thing happens to me when I am connected via USB.
I thought it might be that my computer was set to some kind of "Toner-Saver" or "Fast Draft" setting, but it actually only has a "Standard" setting. There is no "Fast Draft" setting.
What is going on here?

When you contacted Samsung, what did they have to say?
Clinton

Printing from Lightroom (CCS) on a PC and my skin tones are coming out a lot redder than they should.

I am printing from lightroom on an Epson Stylus Pro R2880 on my PC.
Overall, my colors have been fine. Not perfect, but good enough for what I'm doing.
But, I have noticed that my skin tones are coming out extremely red/pink.
1) How do I fix this?
2) How do I optimize my colors so that my prints come out as close as possible to what my computer shows me?
Thanks!

Hi there!
It's a known problem. I solved it by going through an advanced profiling method. I described it here in detail: ColorChecker: How to get PERFECT skin colors with every camera - Hans van Eijsden Photography
Warning: advanced stuff. But once you got it covered and once you calibrated your printer, it's a big time saver. Good luck.
-Hans

Prints From Epson Coming Out Dark/Orange Cast

Hi,
I have an Epson PX710w and use Lightroom 2.4 64bit on Vista. I have putting out some prints over the last few days and have noticed that images with a lot of red in have been coming out slightly orange and all of them are darker than expected. Is there any reason for this? I have also tried printing through CS2 and have noticed a little improvement in the prints. I have also printed some of the images off on other printers with good results that match my monitor.
What I currently do in the Print module:
Colour Management: choose profile that matches printer and paper
>
Print properties >
- Choose paper type
- Colour Management > ICM > Off (No Colour Adjustment)
Then I go back and hit print...
Any suggestions would be fantastic.

I don't use a Colormunki..but what you say here
kentmcpherson wrote:
In the calibration process, I have to turn my monitor Brightness control all the way to 0 to get to come close to what Colormunki wants.
I have to turn off the Enbale DDC Calibration function in the preferences or Colormunki sets my monitor so dark, I can barely see it.
sounds very strange. Usually when profiling a monitor and setting the luminance value (which is either called the brightness or backlight) control, you start from the brightest point the monitor will go to and then the device measures this and sets a recommended luminance value measured in cm2 (that is candles to the square meter) and you reset your monitor brightness until it matches the required value. Are you reading the instructions carefully as what you say here just doesn't make a lot of sense to me. Setting the monitor to 0 (o what?) and saying the calibration device sets your monitor brightness (this will be done on the monitor controls not by a calibration device)
If you are also using the colomunki to make printer profiles I have heard of several serious problems with the device regarding this. I understand it makes icc v4 profiles and your printer drivers may use icc v 2...this will cause difficulties. You will usually be better using the canned profiles supplied by any paper manufacturer than attempting to make your own profiles with these cheaper end of the market devices in my experience.

Boxes coming out when I print it.

I put image file
(GIF) on my work.
It looks fine in screen.
But when i print it.
like this...
Box coming out..
How can I remove that box???

Print >> Advanced >> Custom >> slide all the way over to rasters. This way the transparency will be flattened by Illustrator, not at the printer, where a color shift aoocurs.

T 420s cooling air coming out is very hot, finger print reader problem

I am living in ruwais, abudhabi.i bought T 420s in last June from LENOVO authorized distributor. Model number is 4174-KK4 and the sr no ***.
Sometime the cooling air coming out is very hot, unable to keep the laptop on the lap.
The cooling fan also replaced still the temperature is high.
After replacing the fan I noticed that I noticed one of the screws was not fixed, I asked them to fix it, then they fixed it.
I traveled back to my home 240 KM from the authorized distributor service center. when I started the laptop, the fingerprint reader was not working . Then I traveled back 240 KM to the authorized distributor service center to fix the issue. They fixed the fingerprint reader problem.
Then now the SD card reader is not working. I was asked to bring the laptop to the authorized distributor service centre.
Can any one experience the same type of problems with T 420s the cooling air coming out is very hot, finger print reader problem, card reader not working?
The authorized distributor says for the service they can only cover 50 KM form the authorized distributor service center to the customer point, what is the conditions for the On site warranty ?. I am living 240 KM away from the authorized distributor service center from whom I bought the laptop.
Moderator comment: Serial number(s) removed to protect member from mischief.

Well clearly after the first incident. You need to check and us it verifying everything is working before leaving the service center or town its in. Go to a coffee shop and spend time using it and test each option is working.
When the notebook its opened the finger print reader, card reader etc may not be connect properly or connectors not snap fully and disconnect. Mouse ultranav I have heard may also. But clearly you assume too much and you need to spend the time testing its working before leaving.
These service center are only paid a fixed amount so they won't spend anymore time then they have to and address one problem you brought it in for.
As for heat out put and over heating. There are many threads on these systems you can find and read about.
Advice:
- install Core Temp, this will monitor and display on the task bar you CPU core temp and you can see CPU load & Temperature at a glance if it approaching or staying near the max levels which will kill the CPU and/or motherboard due to cooking it. Its free just be sure to deselect any additional software from installing during the process. I use it on my notebooks. If the system is running high core Temp all the time you need to have it resolved or it will die and most likely out of warranty and/or your data will be lost if you don't have a backup as well. http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/
- use a laptop cooler. Its a flat pad you sit the laptop on you lap or table with usually two cooling fans that plug into the USB port for power. It will help cool the base of the laptop and other components inside will not be as hot. This will do nothing for the CPU temperature though.
T520 Model 4239 Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-2860QM CPU @ 2.50GHz
Intel Sandy Bridge & Nvidia NVS 4200M graphics Intel N 6300 Wi-Fi adapter
Windows 7 Home Prem - 64bit w/8GB DDR3

Prints coming out wrong color.

I keep trying to print a gray print and it keeps coming out with heavy red tones. I cleaned the print heads and even changed some out.
Not sure what to do, but at this rate im wasting lots of material.
Any help, would be great.

This is not a calibration issue. I work on an Eizo Monitor and calibrate it regularly. I actually printed the image thru a different computer and it printed fine. So not sure why one G5 Mac would not print it well but the other did. But so far problem solved for imediate future.

My i tunes print is coming out jumbled up in jewel case mode

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