My iDVD output has brightness level fluctuations as subject moves hands

Hello, I'm new to this software and video production in general. I recently used FCE to produce a 89GB QuickTime HD file that I sent to iDVD to process. The result was as my subject moved his hands, the apparent brightness level changed from lighter to darker, back and forth. It was not a drastic fluctuation, but it was noticeable. This problem was not visible when viewing the movie in QuickTime at 1920x1080. I used the standard workflow export to QuickTime (no conversion), then produce with iDVD. My scratch disk for this was my internal hard drive. Anyone ever see this before? Any ideas will be welcome.

Will this help, Al?
Dimensions: 1920 x 1080, Codecs: Apple Intermediate Codec, Linear PCM, Timecode; Color profile: HD (1-1-1); Duration: 01:53:12; Audio Channels: 2; Total bit rate: 99,862
If not, perhaps you can guide me.

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IDVD output quality

I'm trying to create a slide show with music using iDVD ver 7.1.2 running on Mac OS X ver 10.6.8 and the output quality is very poor. I'm using high quality jpg files some from Lightroom and others from Photoshop CS5. Both are highest quality when saving or exporting. I've tried all thee encoding settings in iDVD with no noticable difference. I've tried to drop the photos directly into iDVD and also tried to put them in iPhoto and export them to iDVD...nothing works for me. What am I doing wrong?

Hi
There are several layers to this
• DVD - is as Standard (whatever program used) - interlaced SD-Video - and can not be anything better than this.
• How material was created to iDVD matters
iMovie'08 to 11 - is not the tool of choise if quality is of importance - as they can not export interlaced video any way known to me - but does this by discarding every second line resulting in a sever quality loss
iMovie HD6 and FinalCut are so much better - as they can deliver 100% interlaced video over to iDVD
• How material is sent to iDVD matters
Share to iDVD - I NEVER USE as this makes iMovie any version to render (badly)
iMovie'08 to 11 - Share to Media Browser and as Large (NOT HD or other resoultion as this too degrades final quality) - forces iMovie to NOT RENDER and iDVD to do this (and so much better)
iMovie HD6 - just close it and import the movie icon into iDVD and iDVD renders.
Else my notes on DVD Quality
DVD quality
1. iDVD 08, 09 & 11 has three levels of qualities. (version 7.0.1, 7,0.4 & 7.1.1) and iDVD 6 has the two last ones
• Professional Quality
(movies + menus up to 120 min.) - BEST (but not always for short movies e.g. up to 45 minutes in total)
• Best Performances
(movies + menus less than 60 min.) - High quality on final DVD (Can be best for short movies)
• High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6)
(movies + menus up to 120 min.) - slightly lower quality than above
Menu can take 15 minutes or even more - I use a very simple one with no audio or animation like ”Brushed Metal” in old Themes.
About double on DL DVDs.
2. Video from
• FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not self-containing, no conversion)
• iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
when the movie includes photos and the Ken Burns effect NOT is used. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
• iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn speed as possibly e.g. x4 or x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09 this can also be set)
This can also be done with Apple’s Disk Utilities application when burning from a DiskImage.
4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc). For SD-Video - if HD-material is used I guess that 4 to 5 times more would do.
5. I use Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
6. I use DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW) - DVD-R play’s on more and older DVD-Players
7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
(I use JES_Deinterlacer to keep frame per sec. same from editing to the Video-DVD result.)
8. Don’t burn more than three DVDs at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while before next batch.
iDVD quality also depends on.
• DVD is a standard in it self. It is Standard Definition Quality = Same as on old CRT-TV sets and can not
deliver anything better that this.
HD-DVD was a short-lived standard and it was only a few Toshiba DVD-players that could playback.
These DVDs could be made in DVD-Studio Pro. But they don’t playback on any other standard DVD-Player.
Blu-Ray / BD can be coded onto DVDs but limited in time to - about 20-30 minutes and then need
_ Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl. BD-component
_ BD disks and burner if full length movies are to be stored
_ BD-Player or PlayStation3 - to be able to playback
The BD-encoded DVDs can be play-backed IF Mac also have Roxio DVD-player tool. Not on any standard Mac or DVD-player
Full BD-disks needs a BD-player (in Mac) as they need blue-laser to be read. No red-laser can do this.
• HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx. 25Gb.
less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
• How it was recorded - Tripod vs Handheld Camera. A stable picture will give a much higher quality
• Audio is most often more critical than picture. Bad audio and with dropouts usually results in a non-viewed movie.
• Use of Video-editor. iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not the tools for DVD-production. They discard every second line resulting in a close to VHS-tape quality.
iMovie 1 to HD6 and FinalCut any version delivers same quality as Camera record in = 100% to iDVD
• What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
• What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
(If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JES_Deinterlacer_3.2.2 do the conversion)
(Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
(US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
(EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
UNLESS. They are play-backed by a Mac - then You need not to care
• What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
• How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
Best / High Performances (most often my choice before Pro Quality)
1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
(x4 by some and may be even better)
2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
Region codes.
iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
1 = US
2 = EU
unclemano wrote
What it turned out to be was the "quality" settings in iDVD. The total clip time was NOT over 2 hours or 4.7GB, yet iDVD created massive visual artifacts on the "professional quality" setting.
I switched the settings to "high quality" which solved the problem. According iDVD help, "high quality" determines the best bit rate for the clips you have.
I have NEVER seen iDVD do this before, especially when I was under the 2 hour and 4.7GB limits.
For anyone else, there seem to be 2 places in iDVD to set quality settings, the first is under "preferences" and the second under "project info." They do NOT seem to be linked (i.e. if you change one, the other is NOT changed). take care, Mario
TO GET IT TO WORK SLIGHTLY FASTER
• Minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up hard disk
• No other programs running in BackGround e.g. Energy-Saver
• Don’t let HD spin down or be turned off (in Energy-Save)
• Move hard disks that are not to be used to Trash - To be disconnected/turned off
• Goto Spotlight and set the rest of them under Integrity (not to be scanned)
• Set screen-saver to a folder without any photo - then make an active corner (up right for me) and set
pointer to this - turns on screen saver - to show that it has nothing to show
Yours Bengt W

Burned iDVD project has terrible interlacing

My son and I produced two QuickTime MOV files from the current Final Cut Express that look excellent on playback with no interlace artifacts. We subsequently put them into an iDVD project, with just those two MOV files and one image for the menu that uses the standard Revolution template. I created a disk image with the Professional quality output. I burned the image to DVD and the resulting movie segments show terrible interlacing artifacts when the movie pans.
These artifacts were not present in the source video or the produced MOV files. The MOV files were created first with no deinterlacing and then a second version of the MOV files used deinterlacing. The resulting DVD's produced identical interlacing artifacts.
What is the cause of the interlacing artifacts that iDVD introduced?
What can one do to eliminate these interlacing artifacts?
Do we need to use a third-party DVD authoring tool?
Thank you.

my penny is on - Ripped from a pre-existing DVD
To What ? .mp4 ?
I would choose StreamingDV .DV - best result in my exp.
Shot by a Prof. - May be as a pro on DVPro or 1080p60 or something that also
needs to be converted to what iDVD, Studio Pro or Toast™ can deal with.
Else - my list on DVD Quality
1. iDVD 08 & 09 has three levels of qualities.
iDVD 6 has the two last ones
• Professional Quality (movies up to 120 min.) - BEST
• Best Performances (movies less than 60 min.) - High quality on final DVD
• High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6) (movies up to 120 min.) - slightly lower quality than above
2.Video from
• FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not selfcontaining, no conversion)
• iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
when the movie includes photos. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
• iMovie’08 not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly eg x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09 this can also be set)
This can also be done with (Apple) Disk Util tool.
4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc).
5. I use Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
6. I use DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW)
7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
8. Don’t burn more than three DVD at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while befor next batch.
iDVD quality also depends on.
• HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx 25Gb.
less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
• What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
• What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
(If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JESDeinterlacer3.2.2 do the conversion)
(Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
(US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
(EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
UNLESS. They are plabacked by a Mac - then You need not to care
• What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
• How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
Best / High Performances (most often my choise before Pro Quality)
1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
(x4 by some and may be even better)
2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
Region codes.
iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
1 = US
2 = EU
*unclemano wrote*
What it turned out to be was the "quality" settings in iDVD. The total clip time was NOT over 2 hours or 4.7GB, yet iDVD created massive visual artifacts on the "professional quality" setting.
I switched the settings to "high quality" which solved the problem. According iDVD help, "high quality" determines the best bit rate for the clips you have.
I have NEVER seen iDVD do this before, especially when I was under the 2 hour and 4.7GB limits.
For anyone else, there seem to be 2 places in iDVD to set quality settings, the first is under "preferences" and the second under "project info." They do NOT seem to be linked (i.e. if you change one, the other is NOT changed). take care, Mario
Yours Bengt W

HU03 going to short dump for handling unit which has higher level handling

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Brightness levels decreased after installing 10.6.2

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blaeblae wrote:
My computer came with Snow Leopard (it's the 13" Macbook Pro) and after installing the upgrade from 10.6.1 to 10.6.2 I noticed that the brightness decreased dramatically. I don't think it has anything to do with gamma as I tried to adjust that and it didn't really make that big a difference. I have now increased the brightness but I still think there might be something wrong with my laptop because I don't know if the update could decrease the brightness levels as they were the default levels, I hadn't changed them... It would seem strange somehow... I did install the update when I didn't have the computer connected to a power source, could that have caused this?
yes, that was most likely it. and a bad idea it was on your part. never do that again. if the computer runs out of power in the middle of an update this can brick your system and require a reinstall.
Could installing the update again help? Or could I uninstall it somehow? This is my first Mac so I'm rather clueless about everything...
you don't need to do anything. the brightness was reduced automatically during the update to conserve energy.

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Jack
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Hi TJK,
I just did a permission repair with disk utility to eliminate any other issues. I'll create a new user and give your suggestion a try. It makes sense since I recently got this machine used from another owner. I've nothing to lose, I suppose.
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What do you think, is a re-install is a good plan?

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Started from yesterday, my T61 laptop LCD brightness level automatically reset to lower in everytime i started it. I needed to manually tune up the brightness level.
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My "energy saver" pref does NOT have the options for "Automatically reduce the brightness of the display before the display sleeps" item mentioned above. It has only the 4 following entries:
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</dict>
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I have an HP Envy 14 Notebook and as of recently, I cannot lower or higher my brightness settings. This laptop has Windows 7 Home Premium installed.
I recently updated my graphics card, or rather, the AMD Catalyst Control Center. Before installing that, the brightness control was working perfectly fine. Afterwards, it just stayed on 100% brightness and its killing my eyes. I tried going in to Control Panel > Device Manager > Monitor > Generic PnP Monitor > Uninstall > Scan for hardware changes, nothing worked. I tried adjusting the brightness level from both AMD CCC and Intel(R) HD Graphics, nothing. I tried booting up in to safe mode, still the brightness settings would not change. As it is right now, because I cannot stand the insanely bright screen I had to go in to CCC > My built-in displays > display color > Contrast to 20. It definitely dimmed the screen by a lot, and I can see a lot better now but my eyes still somewhat hurt from the incredibly bright light. Its a workaround, but I rather have this solved than have a workaround.
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Hi ZeroArmada,
Thank you for visiting the HP Support Forums and Welcome. I have read your thread on your HP ENVY 14 Notebook and getting a blank or black screen on startup. Try performing a hard reset. When performing a hard reset please note remove any and all USB devices, and remove memory cards from the card reader slot. Disconnect all non-essential devices. If that does not help try to turn on the computer you start to press F11 repeatedly till the menu opens. You can do a system restore. Here is a link to a document on how to rollback drivers in the device manager.
Thanks.
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos, Thumbs Up" on the bottom to say “Thanks” for helping!

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What is the Acrobat DC version and the android version that you are running? You can find the Acrobat version here: How to find the Acrobat DC version installed on your Android device

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Losing WiFi connection, and not being able to turn WiFi back on.
Screen randomly going black after sleep
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Screen flickering at approx 25 frames per second on all brightness levels on both battery and. Restarting randomly fixes the problem, randomly does nothing. I have reset the SMC / PRAM. Seems this otherwise beautiful baby is going back .
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Help.

I have same problem, of autobrightness being unchecked and my brightness going from full to about 3/4 bright
all by itself. I had that problem, then flickering of my screen also was taking place. I didn't bring my unit into Apple
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to show the left side of screen. I also told them about the flickering,, and the autobrightness, which I figured played a role into the final left side dimming. They replaced the backlight and the display LCD on warranty.
I have had it for about 5 days. The screen is equally lit (as should be), however, I discovered that my same old
problem of autobrightness, is slipping back to 3/4. So most of you have autobrightness problem in a sort of different way. I set mine to "torch" because my downstairs bedroom is dim (with one overhead light), but sometimes, just plain dark,, so I want to sometimes keep it at torch,, however, it still slips back. You would
almost think that if my surronding was dim or dark, that it would stay on torch if the autobrightness was really working properly. Go figure. I just tried SMC a short while ago,, I had tried, before my repair doing PRAM and the other one (I think VRAM). I also will unhook my second monitor to see if that is having an impact on things.
Do any of you in this post have a second monitor attached,, and have you tried unhooking it to see if the problem
is resolved?

My iDVD output has brightness level fluctuations as subject moves hands

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