My MacBook Air won't charge using the power cord and it's not the power cord that's malfunctioning. The battery is now exhausted.

My MacBook Air won't charge using the power cord and it's not the power cord that's malfunctioning. I went to Radio Shack and tried two new cords. The battery is now dead. Any thoughts?

Unfortunately, my battery has died as a result of not being able to charge with the power cord. Not sure what an SMC reset is but I have made an appointment to bring my laptop in to the Apple Store. Thank you for your response. Very much appreciated.
Warm Regards,
Carla

Similar Messages

  • My MacBook Air won't charge, what can I do?

    My MacBook Air won't charge up at home. Today I brought it to the Apple Store,and it worked OK there. What could be the cause? In the Apple Store, we even used my charger, and it worked. At home now, the green or orange light doesn't come on and the computer loses the little charge it has (4% right now). Very frustrating.

    Hi Lisa,
    My macbook air has the same issue.
    I get no light on the power adaptor (45W) and no charge appearing on the onscreen icon.
    This issue seems to happen intermittently and after being fine for the last few months it started again today.
    After trawling through a lot of forums I tried a piece of advice which did work and my macbook is now charging.
    The advice was to simply heat up the charger a few degrees, which I did by putting a warm fan blower on it. My charger started working within a few minutes.
    Hope this may help,
    Craig

  • My MacBook Air won't charge, have tried SMC reset too..

    I have noticed today that my MacBook Air won't charge. I changed the socket I was using to a different one in the house.
    The charger itself is not hot. Has not been used at all today.
    Have followed a link on here and tried an SMC reset to no avail.
    This is what my system report has to say: (my charger is attached right now - no light)
    Battery Information:
      Model Information:
      Serial Number:          D86207311M5DKRNAA
      Manufacturer:          SMP
      Device Name:          bq20z451
      Pack Lot Code:          0
      PCB Lot Code:          0
      Firmware Version:          406
      Hardware Revision:          000a
      Cell Revision:          162
      Charge Information:
      Charge Remaining (mAh):          2369
      Fully Charged:          No
      Charging:          No
      Full Charge Capacity (mAh):          6463
      Health Information:
      Cycle Count:          25
      Condition:          Normal
      Battery Installed:          Yes
      Amperage (mA):          -1370
      Voltage (mV):          7478
    System Power Settings:
      AC Power:
      System Sleep Timer (Minutes):          10
      Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes):          10
      Display Sleep Timer (Minutes):          10
      Wake on AC Change:          No
      Wake on Clamshell Open:          Yes
      Wake on LAN:          Yes
      Display Sleep Uses Dim:          Yes
      PrioritizeNetworkReachabilityOverSleep:          0
      RestartAfterKernelPanic:          157680000
      Standby Delay:          4200
      Standby Enabled:          1
      Battery Power:
      System Sleep Timer (Minutes):          10
      Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes):          10
      Display Sleep Timer (Minutes):          2
      Wake on AC Change:          No
      Wake on Clamshell Open:          Yes
      Current Power Source:          Yes
      Display Sleep Uses Dim:          Yes
      Reduce Brightness:          Yes
      RestartAfterKernelPanic:          157680000
      Standby Delay:          4200
      Standby Enabled:          1
    Hardware Configuration:
      UPS Installed:          No
    AC Charger Information:
      Connected:          No
      Charging:          No
    In the middle of writing end of year school reports, not ideal!
    Any advice?

    Edited to add -  only a few months old... grrrrrrr

  • My macbook air won't get past the white apple screen.  I've tried power cycling the batter but won't help

    my macbook air won't get past the white apple screen.  I've tried power cycling the batter but won't help

    Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
    Step 1
    The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
    There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
    a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
    b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
    c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
    d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
    Step 2
    If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
    Step 3
    Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
    Step 4
    If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
    Step 5
    If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
    Step 6
    Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
    Step 7
    If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
    Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
    Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
    The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
    When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
    If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
    If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
    Step 8
    Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
    This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
    Step 9
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    Step 11
    Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
    Step 12
    This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
    Step 13
    If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

  • My iPad won't charge using the charger brick

    My iPad won't charge using the charger brick

    you can try giving your device a reset and see if that helps. Hold down the sleep and home keys, past when you see the red power down slider and until you see the silver apple. Let it reboot and try. If that doesn't fix it, then time to move onto other trouble shooting.
    Usually if an iPad won't charge (presuming you're using the supplied charger plugged into the wall), it's:
    bad brick
    bad cable
    bad outlet
    bad port on the iPad
    you can eliminate the first three by swapping out chargers if you have another, swapping out cables and trying a different outlet. If you do that and eliminate the first three, then it may be the port on your iPad. If so, and your iPad is still under warranty, make an appointment at your local apple store and take it in.

  • MacBook Air Won't Charge to 100%?

    I have consistently plugged in my MBA and it won't charge all the way to 100%, is there a reason for this or do they all do this?  It goes from (Charged) to (99%) immediately after I unplug it. 

    shldr2thewheel wrote:
    sudo -intellect, read the article you linked the OP to.  It specifically states that all MacBook Air's have pre-calibrted batteries and therefore, do not need to be manually calibrated.
    You are right!  I stand corrected.   Thanks for the correction. 

  • IPad won't charge using 10W Power Adapter

    The subject states it all.
    My iPad displays the words "Not Charging" besides the battery bar even when charged by the 10W power adapter that came along with the iPad.
    Used the same power adapter to charge my iPhone and there was no problem.
    Charged the same iPad using the same 10W power adapter a few times before and there were no issues either.
    Any ideas?
    Message was edited by: Wongjh

    Hi,
    Thank you for your suggestions.
    I thought that my USB cable was faulty too at first. But after changing the USB cable and playing around with a few power adapters which did charge by iPhone, I guess the probability that the USB cables are faulty or that the problem lies with the power adapter seems rather low.
    Changing power sockets didn't help.
    By elimination, I suppose the only problem there can be should be with the iPad. My only concern is that it happened so sudden without me doing anything to the iPad (using it normally etc.)and how can I be sure it doesn't happen again in the future.
    Pretty annoying.
    *If I might add, plugging it in to the computer does not induce a response from iTunes (no detection).
    Message was edited by: Wongjh

  • MacBook Air won't charge and charger keeps the green light

    I have tried a few chargers and it's not a charger problem because none of them has worked.
    This is a MacBook Air from 2011.
    The mac doesn't hold a charge anymore. Also, when the battery is at 0% the computer has turned extremely slow. At very few random times I goes up to 3% but I have to maintained it plugged in all the time otherwise it will go back to 0 and become unusable anymore.
    The light is always green, and I have already tried doing an SMC reset.
    Any ideas or has anyone encountered the same problem as I?
    Thank you in advance

    thanks for the help! here is the info you requested. This is with the charger connected:
    Charge Information:
      Charge Remaining (mAh):     0
      Fully Charged:     No
      Charging:     No
      Full Charge Capacity (mAh):     6199
      Health Information:
      Cycle Count:     139
      Condition:     Normal
      Battery Installed:     Yes
      Amperage (mA):     0
      Voltage (mV):     7239

  • My Macbook air won't charge event though the light on the power adapter is red.

    My Macbook is plugged in, and the light on the power adapter comes on. However, I have to jiggle it for it to say it's charging, and then it quits charging after a few seconds. Right now when I get it to charge, the percent on the battery increases like normal, but yesterday it said it was at 0% while charging or the percentage was decreasing. My power adapter is only a few months old, so I don't think that could be the problem.

    1  You may need a new charger. Connections should be firm.
    2. Reset SMC.     http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
        Choose the method for:
        "Resetting SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own".

  • Brand New MacBook Air Won't Charge

    I just bought a new Macbook Air 1.8 GHz (the more expensive version) and from the second I opened it, it would not charge. The only way I can use the laptop is if it is plugged in. When I look at the computer's info, it says BATTERY INSTALLED: NO CHARGING: NO CYCLE COUNT:0
    What happened? Was it supposed to come with the battery installed? Should I send it back?

    if the store is close take it back and ask for replacement, otherwise call and ask for replacement
    you could call support and get it fixed under warranty...
    U.S. iPod and Mac technical support: 1-800-APL-CARE (1-800-275-2273)
    ...but if it is brand new you have a reasonable expectation to get what you paid for, so going for replacement is the beter option

  • Macbook Air won't charge or power on

    My MacBook Air is 18 months old and won't charge or power on. Technicians diagnosed logic board needs replacing at a massive cost. Has anyone had similar issues or taken this up with Apple. They refuse to assist as warranty expired.

    You are going to have to take the machine apart, and see what damage was done to the board that the MagSafe receptacle is attached to. Might be a single, broken connection. Might be much worse.

  • Macbook air won't charge

    I bought a MacBook Air in November 2011 so I haven't even had it a full year. It does fine when it is plugged in but it has just stopped charging. What could be the issue?

    99% of times this is due to a System Management Controller (SMC) problem and you can solve it by reseting it.
    Here is how:
    Shut down the computer.
    Plug in the MagSafe power adapter to a power source, connecting it to the Mac if its not already connected.
    On the built-in keyboard, press the (left side) Shift-Control-Option keys and the power button at the same time.
    Release all the keys and the power button at the same time.
    Press the power button to turn on the computer. 
    Note: The LED on the MagSafe power adapter may change states or temporarily turn off when you reset the SMC.
    I hope this solves your problem
    Cheers!

  • Macbook air won't charge & no light on charger

    I charged 2011 Macbook Air yesterday and it was fine last night and again this morning. Then, when it was running low on battery today I plugged in the wall charger (which is a new one I got in July) and suddenly my screen went black and the charge light wouldn't come on. So, I unplugged the charger and then my screen came back. Plugged in charger again and screen went black again. I restarted my computer and still same problem. I even shut down and rebooted but same problem. Of course I didn't back up my files so I scrambled to transfer some to our portable hard drive but I was on reserve power and the transfer did not complete. So, now I have a dead computer. I even just tried the charger of a friend with a MB Air but her charger didn't work for me either. So, now I have just plugged my charger in with the hope that it will mysteriously start working again -still no light showing.
    And ideas? I live in southern Mexico and closest Apple Store is in Mexico City...not very close to me :-(

    silveroak wrote:
    ... Is there any way to connect the Air to an iMac and try to charge it that way...or connect just to access my files so I can transfer them off.
    The only way to charge a Mac is through its charging socket. Without power, you will be unable to read its disk contents either.
    I wish I had better news for you but the only option left is to contact Apple and send it to them or an authorized service provider for repair.
    Check this website to determine your options:
    https://expresslane.apple.com/GetSASO.action?locale=en_MX&PRKEYS=PF2

  • MacBook Air won't charge or start.

    Adapter doesn't show a light at all. Nearest service center and/or Apple store is 45 minutes away. The computer fell about 2 feet last night, but was working fine until the battery died. Trying to determine if it just needs a new adapter, or if I need to make a drive.

    Have you tried a SMC reset?
    http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201295
    Ciao.

  • How do I discharge (calibrate?) my Macbook Air (Mid 2013) without harming the battery?

    I just got the latest MacBook Air this week. And after reading the discussion here https://discussions.apple.com/message/22294118#22294118 I chose not to calibrate it the first time since it shouldn`t be necessary with lithium-based batteries.
    The thing that still confuses me about the calibration issue with the Macbook Air (Mid 2013) is the text I`ve underlined below from Apples page and where they are talking about lithium-based batteries:
    http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
    "Standard Maintenance
    For proper maintenance of a lithium-based battery, it’s important to keep the electrons in it moving occasionally. Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time. An ideal use would be a commuter who uses her notebook on the train, then plugs it in at the office to charge. This keeps the battery juices flowing. If on the other hand, you use a desktop computer at work, and save a notebook for infrequent travel, Apple recommends charging and discharging its battery at least once per month. Need a reminder? Add an event to your desktop’s iCal. When your battery no longer holds sufficient charge to meet your needs, you may choose to replace it. If your notebook came with a built-in battery, you should have the battery replaced only by an Apple Authorized Service Provider."
    So when Apple is talking about discharging, how should I actually discharge it? If discharging a lithium-based battery completely is harmful for the battery life, then what is the ideal way to do this without harming the battery? How should I discharge my battery when the calender says it`s time?

    Calibration is not needed for "built-in" -non-removable- battery.
    "Portables with built-in batteries
    Current Apple portable computer batteries are pre-calibrated and do not require the calibration procedure outlined in this article. These computers use batteries that should be replaced only by an Apple Authorized Service Provider."
    MacBook Air
    MacBook Air (all models)
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1490
    "If your portable Mac has a built-in battery, you don’t need to calibrate the battery."
    http://support.apple.com/kb/PH11078?viewlocale=en_US
    Best.

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