My new Imac 24", 2.8GHz Intel Core is suddenly making a loud fan noise

Please help!
This Imac is only a week old. I bought it on apple online store. This is 24" 2.8GHz Imac and it's been the best computer I've ever had. It was wonderful to work and silent until yesterday. And suddenly I can't stand the fan noise coming from my new Imac. I downloaded i-stat Pro to check the status of my computer and it reads *CPU fan:1198rpm, hard drive:1198rpm, optical drive: 4401rpm*
what is wrong with my computer?
I searched many mac forums, and I've tried many things including shutting it down and unplugging everything and replugging everything after a while, but nothing solves this problem. Does anybody have experienced this problem? I am not even using many applications. I am only using safari, and the fan is at full speed. SO LOUD! What can I do to solve this? Should I take it to apple to look at it?

Hello lovingimac
Welcome to Apple Discussions
That sounds like there is something wrong with the temp. sensor for the optical drive.
If carefully following the SMC reset instructions below, does not fix the fan issue:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=303446-en
Then yes you need to make a trip to your local Apple service center.
Dennis

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<hr width="200">
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Dear Apple Support Community.
As mentioned by a number of users reporting the same problem, my 2009 iMac CPU3.06 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, 8GB RAM, has become extremely slow and repeatedly "out of Memory" since it was migrated from Mountain Lion to Mavericks (OS 10.9 then OS 10.9.1).
I have already run CleanMyMac, deleted 5GB of useless stuffs, which did not translate into any improvement. Following the advices collected in other Apple Support Community threads, I have applied EtreCheck the outcome of which is provided below.
For information, I have also upgraded my 2011 MacBook CPU2.3 GHz Core i7, 8GB which became only a bit slower than before, sometimes freezing which it almost never did before. However, I am used to the fact that Mac get usually slower and more prompt fo freeze after upgrading to a more recent OS.
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So please find below the details of the EtreCheck experience and some additional measurements made with iStat while running EtreCheck:
Hardware Information:
iMac (24-inch, Early 2009)
iMac - model: iMac9,1
1 3.06 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo CPU: 2 cores
8 GB RAM
Video Information:
ATI Radeon HD 4850 - VRAM: 512 MB
Audio Plug-ins:
BluetoothAudioPlugIn: Version: 1.0 - SDK 10.9
AirPlay: Version: 1.9 - SDK 10.9
AppleAVBAudio: Version: 2.0.0 - SDK 10.9
iSightAudio: Version: 7.7.3 - SDK 10.9
System Software:
OS X 10.9.1 (13B42) - Uptime: 0 days 2:40:57
Disk Information:
WDC WD1001FALS-40K1B0 disk0 : (1 TB)
EFI (disk0s1) <not mounted>: 209.7 MB
XooS5 HD (disk0s2) /: 999.35 GB (189.85 GB free)
Recovery HD (disk0s3) <not mounted>: 650 MB
OPTIARC DVD RW AD-5670S
USB Information:
Apple Inc. Built-in iSight
Canon CanoScan
Apple Computer, Inc. IR Receiver
Apple Inc. BRCM2046 Hub
Apple Inc. Bluetooth USB Host Controller
FireWire Information:
WD My Passport 071D 800mbit - 800mbit max
EFI (disk1s1) <not mounted>: 209.7 MB
disk1s2 (disk1s2) <not mounted>: 2 TB
Boot OS X (disk1s3) <not mounted>: 134.2 MB
Thunderbolt Information:
Kernel Extensions:
com.f-secure.kext.fsauth          (1.0.0d1)
Problem System Launch Daemons:
[failed] com.apple.wdhelper.plist [REMARK: this abnormality appeared only after running CleanMyMac. It does not appear on my 2011 MacBook]
Problem System Launch Agents:
Launch Daemons:
[loaded] com.adobe.fpsaud.plist
[invalid] com.bjango.istatlocaldaemon.plist [REMARK: this abnormality pre-existed to running CleanMyMac. It appears also on my 2011 MacBook]
[loaded] com.f-secure.fsavd.dbhelper.plist
[loaded] com.f-secure.fsavd.plist
[loaded] com.f-secure.fsmac.firewall.plist
[loaded] com.f-secure.fsmac.fsupdated_guts2.plist
[loaded] com.f-secure.fsmac.licensetool.plist
[loaded] com.macpaw.CleanMyMac2.Agent.plist
Launch Agents:
[loaded] com.babylon.activation.plist
[loaded] com.bjango.istatlocal.plist
[loaded] com.f-secure.relauncher.plist
[loaded] com.f-secure.trasher.plist
User Launch Agents:
[loaded] com.adobe.ARM.[...].plist
[loaded] com.google.keystone.agent.plist
[loaded] com.macpaw.CleanMyMac2Helper.diskSpaceWatcher.plist
[loaded] com.macpaw.CleanMyMac2Helper.scheduledScan.plist
[loaded] com.macpaw.CleanMyMac2Helper.trashWatcher.plist
User Login Items:
iTunesHelper
Dropbox
F-Secure Anti-Virus for MAC
3rd Party Preference Panes:
Flash Player
Internet Plug-ins::
FlashPlayer-10.6: Version: 11.9.900.170 - SDK 10.6
Default Browser: Version: 537 - SDK 10.9
AdobePDFViewerNPAPI: Version: 11.0.04 - SDK 10.6
AdobePDFViewer: Version: 11.0.04 - SDK 10.6
DivXBrowserPlugin: Version: 2.1
Flash Player: Version: 11.9.900.170 - SDK 10.6
OfficeLiveBrowserPlugin: Version: 12.2.8
Google Earth Web Plug-in: Version: 6.1
QuickTime Plugin: Version: 7.7.3
iPhotoPhotocast: Version: 7.0
User Internet Plug-ins::
Picasa: Version: 1.0
Bad Fonts:
None
Old applications:
None
Time Machine:
Skip System Files: NO
Mobile backups: OFF
Auto backup: YES
Volumes being backed up:
XooS5 HD: Disk size: 930.71 GB Disk used: 753.90 GB
Destinations:
XooS5 TM [Local] (Last used)
Total size: 2
Total number of backups: 32
Oldest backup: 2013-09-15 01:11:39 +0000
Last backup: 2013-12-07 12:48:45 +0000
Size of backup disk: Too small. Backup size 2 < (Disk used 753.90 GB X 3)
Time Machine details may not be accurate. All volumes being backed up may not be listed.
REMARK: The above finding is unlikely to be accurate. In fact, my Time Machine is supported by a 2TB WD My Passport Studio external HD connected with a Firewire 800. As mentionned, only 754GB of the 2000GB are used.
Top Processes by CPU:
5%          backupd
5%          Mail
5%          WindowServer
3%          Finder
3%          Dropbox
Top Processes by Memory:
1.60 GB          mds_stores REMARK: this item was marked in red in the outcome of EtreCheck, so I assume there is something wrong there
82 MB          Finder
74 MB          Mail
49 MB          softwareupdated
49 MB          Dropbox
Virtual Memory Statistics:
97 MB          Free RAM
1.21 GB          Active RAM
1.19 GB          Inactive RAM
1.21 GB          Wired RAM
1.83 GB          Page-ins
36 MB          Page-outs
Please find now some additional measurements collected with iStat while running EtreCheck:
Practically:
The iMac can work slowly with only one software e.g. either Mail or Safari or Firefox, but still the below "out of Memory" message occurs about every 3 minutes.
Aperture has becomre to slow to be useable
If trying to write a mail (with Mail) while Safari or Firefox is open, then the "out of Memory" message occurs about every 20 seconds so I need to check on "Resume" several times per minute.
Conclusions
From the above, unless anyone in the Apple Support Community proves to be able to identify a specific problem leading to a way to find a cure, I tend to conclude that Mavericks is not suitable for computers operating with a Core 2 Duo CPU even with a 8GB of RAM.
Unless I missed something, I did not see any warning from Apple Computer Inc. informing their customers they should refrain from upgrading Core 2 Duo Computers.
The only solution I see so far is to downgrade from Mavericks to Mountain Lion. And the Apple Support Community would confirm that it is the only solution, I would appreciate to get your guidance on how to proceed.
Intended action plan
Migrate the above 2009 iMac to a 2014 Mac Mini Server operating on Mavericks to ensure that no data may be lost while downgrading to Montain Lion.
Provided the above downgrading operation is successful, assign this 2009 iMac to partial retirement e.g. Mail, Skype, iTunes and DVD player.
In advance, I would like to thank the Apple Community for helping me either i) finding a cure to the problem, ii) or confirming that Mavericks cannot operate properly on Core 2 Duo computers, iii) and in such a case, guiding me on how to downgrade to Mountain Lion.
Yours sincerely
Core

... what anti-virus would you recommend using?
Use what is already included with OS X. It already includes everything it needs to protect itself from viruses and malware. Keep it that way with software updates from Apple.
A much better question is "how should I protect my Mac":
Never install any product that claims to "speed up", "clean up", "optimize", or "accelerate" your Mac. Without exception, they will do the opposite.
Never install pirated or "cracked" software, software obtained from dubious websites, or other questionable sources. Illegally obtained software is almost certain to contain malware.
Don’t supply your password in response to a popup window requesting it, unless you know what it is and the reason your credentials are required.
Don’t open email attachments from email addresses that you do not recognize, or click links contained in an email:
Most of these are scams that direct you to fraudulent sites that attempt to convince you to disclose personal information.
Such "phishing" attempts are the 21st century equivalent of a social exploit that has existed since the dawn of civilization. Don’t fall for it.
Apple will never ask you to reveal personal information in an email. If you receive an unexpected email from Apple saying your account will be closed unless you take immediate action, just ignore it. If your iTunes or App Store account becomes disabled for valid reasons, you will know when you try to buy something or log in to this support site, and are unable to.
Don’t install browser extensions unless you understand their purpose. Go to the Safari menu > Preferences > Extensions. If you see any extensions that you do not recognize or understand, simply click the Uninstall button and they will be gone.
Don’t install Java unless you are certain that you need it:
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Disable Java in Safari > Preferences > Security.
Despite its name JavaScript is unrelated to Java. No malware can infect your Mac through JavaScript. It’s OK to leave it enabled.
Block browser popups: Safari menu > Preferences > Security > and check "Block popup windows":
Popup windows are useful and required for some websites, but popups have devolved to become a common means to deliver targeted advertising that you probably do not want.
Popups themselves cannot infect your Mac, but many contain resource-hungry code that will slow down Internet browsing.
If you ever see a popup indicating it detected registry errors, that your Mac is infected with some ick, or that you won some prize, it is 100% fraudulent. Ignore it.
Ignore hyperventilating popular media outlets that thrive by promoting fear and discord with entertainment products arrogantly presented as "news". Learn what real threats actually exist and how to arm yourself against them:
The most serious threat to your data security is phishing. To date, most of these attempts have been pathetic and are easily recognized, but that is likely to change in the future as criminals become more clever.
OS X viruses do not exist, but intentionally malicious or poorly written code, created by either nefarious or inept individuals, is nothing new.
Never install something without first knowing what it is, what it does, how it works, and how to get rid of it when you don’t want it any more.
If you elect to use "anti-virus" software, familiarize yourself with its limitations and potential to cause adverse effects, and apply the principle immediately preceding this one.
Most such utilities will only slow down and destabilize your Mac while they look for viruses that do not exist, conveying no benefit whatsoever - other than to make you "feel good" about security, when you should actually be exercising sound judgment, derived from accurate knowledge, based on verifiable facts.
Do install updates from Apple as they become available. No one knows more about Macs and how to protect them than the company that builds them.
Summary: Use common sense and caution when you use your Mac, just like you would in any social context. There is no product, utility, or magic talisman that can protect you from all the evils of mankind.

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Late 2006, 24" iMac, 2.16 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, Screen Tearing, nVidia GeForce 7300 GT
I've been suffering with screen tearing, strange screen artifacts, etc. followed by totally unresponsive freezing machine. This problem has been happening to varying degrees for about 9 months.
Initially, I was able to mitigate the problem with smcFanControl. Adjusting the fan speeds up helped keep the machine cool and prevent most of the problems. Recently, we had a spell of hot weather and the fans just couldn't keep up. If you're using smcFanControl, the only fan speed that will really make a difference is the CPU. The HDD and ODD fans are no where near where you need to be.
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Based on reading here and elsewhere, I decided to replace the graphics card. To give back to the community, I wanted to layout the procedure here.
Where to buy the card.
I had a tough time finding the right card. I did exhaustive web searches using every combination of Nvidia 7300 GT, etc. You really need to search by the Apple part number. The Apple part number for the 7300 is 661-4179, for the 7600 is 661-4180. I found it at We Love Macs and at dv warehouse. I paid $248 for the 7600 card. BE CAREFUL buying a "refurbished" card. At We Love Macs, "refurbished" means "pulled from a working machine." Could be a machine with as much mileage as yours and prone to the same failures as yours.
The card is an MXM style card (generally used in laptops), with a giant heat sink and heat pipe assembly. The card can be separated from the heat assembly. If I had time, I would have tried a generic, cheaper, MXM style card.
Dispelling some myths.
People here and elsewhere have said that no Intel iMac graphics card can be replaced, that they're wedded to the logic board. The one on this model can be replaced, I've done it. Also, some have said you can't put a 256MB, 7600 GT in a machine that originally had a 128MB, 7300 GT. Also, not true. That's what I did to my machine and it is working fine.
So here's the step-by-step on my take apart and replacement. This is just one user helping out others, PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK. This takes about 1 1/2 hours to take apart and 2 to put back together.
1) Install the iStat widget and monitor the temperatures for a few days and record the temperatures (to be able to verify that you've completed the repair correctly later)
2) Make a complete backup of any internal drives and make sure the backup will be bootable (use Carbon Copy Cloner)
3) Use static safeguards, like an anti-static wrist strap.
4) Get a pen a stack of paper envelopes to separate and label the pieces you remove.
5) You'll need a #2 Phillips and #6, 8, 10 Torx. Most of the screws at T-8. There are 8 T-8s holding in the LCD. They are about 1 1/4" down. You'll need a long, skinny T-8 to get to them.
6) Unplug the machine and place it on it's back on a large white sheet of paper.
7) Remove RAM door, #2 Phillips x 2.
8) Remove RAM.
9) Remove 4 T-8s along bottom.
10) Remove large rectangular plastic bezel surrounding the whole machine, tilt up being careful not to stress iSight cables. You'll need to stretch it around the RAM ejection tabs.
11) Detach two iSight cables.
12) Peel up black stickers at lower corners of speakers.
13) Remove LCD screws, T-8 x 8. You'll probably drop a few, they're pretty easy to retrieve.
14) Remove two retaining screws on right hand LCD cable. T-6 x2 Unplug cable.
15) Remove LCD inverter cable, left.
Start unplugging everything connected to the logic board.
16) Unplug cable coming from right speaker. Note cable routing, it is the only one that's a little tricky. Also, note that the left one plugs in on the right and the right one plugs in on the left.
17) Remove right speaker. T-10 Note: left and right speaker screws are different lengths.
18) Unplug ODD blower cable.
19) Unplug ODD temp cable and lift up tape.
20) Unplug HDD blower cable.
21) Unplug the HDD temp cable.
22) Unplug the camera & mic cable.
23) Unscrew the clamp securing the airport card (has two antenna cables going to it, labeled PCIE), T-6 x 2
24) Unplug SATA cable.
25) Unplug Power cable, thick black plastic harness, socket.
26) Unplug ambient temp cable.
27) Unscrew the bluetooth card, T-6 x2.
28) Unplug CPU blower cable.
29) Unplug power button cable, 2 conductor, tiny cable, bottom left.
30) Unscrew left speaker, T-10, unplug from logic board, but just leave dangling, no need to remove cable completely.
31) Remove logic board screws. Be careful to segregate them, they have different lengths and different thread pitches and thread types. Some are machine threads going into metal, some are coarse threads going into plastic.
31a) Heat sink frame to case T-8 x 2
31b) Logic board to case T-8 x 3
31c) Screws at heat sink from arrows T-8 x 3
31d) Logic board at bottom near RAM slot T-8 x 2
32) Unplug ODD ribbon cable, be extremely careful. Release plastic tabs on each side to remove. Be sure it is fully and evenly seated when you put it back later.
33) Remove logic board with attached graphics card.
34) Unplug graphics card heat sink sensor cable at logic board end.
35) Remove graphics card screws 2 x T-6
36) Remove single screw from small L-bracket on heat sink 1 x T-6
Replace graphics card.
Reverse steps, put everything back together. Be careful not to pinch any cables when you put the logic board back in. When you put the LCD back in, if you can't get the screws to stick to the driver, use some glue stick from your kid's art supplies.
Test everything. You've disconnected every cable in the system.
I torture tested the machine with a space heater on it, 5 different videos of different formats playing at the same time. No problems.
I took a lot of pictures inside the machine. As soon as I figure out a good place to post them, I'll try to add a link here.
Good luck

Greetings!
I know this is in response to your post from over 2 years ago, but I was searching on Apple's site for the max RAM I can upgrade our refurbed iMac too and it brought up this post.
Oddly enough, I've been experiencing the same screen issues and locking up on our iMac as well. I was concerned it was a bad memory module, but now I'm thinking it's the same issue you found.
Because I bought this some 2+ years ago refurbed from Apple, I'm not surprised that could be the actual problem.
I've pulled this thing apart once to replace the hard-drive which crashed about a year ago, so I'm not totally new at opening it up, but this process you mention sounds pretty intense...just wanted to get your second take on it based on what I've done thus far.
Thanks again for posting this...it was an eye-opener as to what might actually be causing our issues with our trusted Mac!
Joshua

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Thanks "a brody," my mistake, I was mistaking the "audio in" jack for a speaker output jack. I have some Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 speakers with a built in amplifier that I am using and they sound beautiful. I do have them plugged into the correct jack, but was thinking there was a speaker out put and headphone out put.
Thanks again for correcting me, I feel much better now that I know my brand new iMac isn't defective, lol.

24" iMac 2.8 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo OSX v10.5.5 shutdown anomaly

24” iMac 2.8 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo OSX v10.5.5 shutdown anomaly.
I have noticed that when my iMac shuts down, that initially the One Touch Maxtor 500G external drive attached to the Firewire 400 port also does a normal shut down and the light goes out. Within a few minutes I noticed that the light on the Maxtor is back on. This does not happen if I use the USB 2.0 port to attach the hard drive and iMac, the light remains off. It appears the FW400 port is active on the iMac even when in the shutdown mode. Is this normal for the iMac?
I have a 13”MacBook 2.4Ghz that does not activate the same Maxtor when it is shut down. I attach it via the MacBook FW400 port.
I hooked up an ammeter to the iMac power cord and observed the following readings:
iMac Off: From 50ma to 180ma cycling at a rate of 23 cycles/minute. Using the Watt reading of the instrument, that amounted to cycling from 0 to 5 Watts every 4 seconds.
iMac On: 1.16A 133Watts.
This iMac is new, 1 week old, does it need repair or is this normal? I like to get a FW800 external HD, but I don’t want to have to pull the plug on the HD every time I want to shut down.

Since my Maxtor doesn’t have an on/off switch, the best solution I have found so far is to use my APC 750 UPS to turn off the Maxtor. This APC has a master plug outlet that senses when the computer is turned on and activates 3 other outlets to on when the computer reaches a certain power threshold. Fortunately the threshold is user adjustable and I was able to set it high enough to turn off the Maxtor outlet when the iMac is off.
Is anyone else able to confirm that their iMac cycles like mine does, or is this peculiar to my iMac? It is new and if it needs service I would prefer to do it while it is covered under warranty.

My new Imac 24", 2.8GHz Intel Core is suddenly making a loud fan noise

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