My new iphone 5s doesn't have any volume when I call someone. I can see from the screen that it's calling the person, but I can't hear anything. I also can bearly hear the person when they answer my call.

My new iphone 5s doesn't have any volume when I call someone. I can see from the screen that it is calling them, but I cannot hear anything. Also when they answer my call, I cannot hear them.

Turn the volume up... in call volume and sounds (ring, notifications, etc) are seperate volume controls.

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My new iphone 4 does not have any sound when recording a video with the camera app. Does anyone know how to fix this?

I just got a new white iphone 4. When I try to take a video using the camera app, there is only a muffled sound. I never had this problem with my old iphone. I tried to restore it and that didn't help. I checked over all of the settings. Does anyone know how to fix this?? Thanks for any help you can offer!

There is a good possibility that your trimming of the SIM card could have damaged it some way. If the SIM was working in the old phone, then you cut it and the first new phone didn't work and now this phone doesn't work, it leads me to believe it has to do with the SIM card or the account. You are sure there is no problem with the account. Did you check with the provider when you got the iPhone 4 to make sure there was no problem with the account when you could not send or receive SMS? Why can't you just get a micro-sim? The iPhone should have come with one when you purchased it.The iPhone 4 is designed for a micro-sim. I don't believe this is a hardware problem unless the phone has been hacked or modified in some manner.

My ipod nano 6th gen doesn't start. When I plug it, only blink the apple logo on the screen. I try to reset it holding by 8 seconds start button and volume down and doesn't work. My Ipod doesn't have any shock or water damage. How can I do?

My ipod nano 6th gen doesn't start. When I plug it, only blink the apple logo on the screen. I try to reset it holding by 8 seconds start button and volume down and doesn't work. My Ipod doesn't have any shock or water damage. How can I do?

Hey rulosrojos,
The article linked below details a number of troubleshooting steps that can help restore functionality to your iPod nano.
iPod nano (6th generation): Hardware troubleshooting
https://support.apple.com/en-us/TS3474
Sincerely,
Allen

I have an iPhone 6Plus and i have a lag when i answer the calls

I have an iPhone 6Plus IOS 8.3 and i have a lag when i answer the calls that happens many times and thanks

Hello Loay Elraghy,
Thank you for visiting Apple Support Communities.
It appears that you have a lag when you answer calls.
If there is a pause or delay between when you answer a call and when the call connects, the troubleshooting steps mentioned in this article may be helpful:
If you can't make or receive calls on your iPhone - Apple Support
Sincerely,
Jeremy

I changed jobs and purchased a new iPhone I no longer have any of my iBook information. My Apple account and name has changed is there any way to get the info I had in iBooks to my new phone under my new account?

I changed jobs and bought a new phone. I would like to get my iBooks info on my new phone but it is under my old account. When I try to log in under the old account i get a message that I will not be able to log back onto my new account for a period of time. HOw do i get the information from my old account over to my new account?

You can't currently transfer purchases/downloads from one account to another account.
When you download past purchases from an account then you will potentially tie the device (or computer if you do it on that) to that account for 90 days : http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4627
Have you got the ibooks already on your computer and/or on a backup so that you can sync them to your new iPhone ? If not then have you bought anything on your new account yet - could you go back to just using the old account ?

My wifes new iphone 4s doesn't have a contact app on the screen ???? only can look at contacts after opening phone app

Her phone is a bit different than mine a iphone 4 I don't know why she doesn't have the contact app on the main screen ??

Starting in iOS 5, the Contacts app is inside the Utilities folder. Click and hold the app for a couple of seconds to move it out of the folder and onto a home screen.

TS1398 new iphone 4 doesn't find any wifi signals

I bought my daughter the iphone4 and it wont pick up any wifi signals, weve never had any problems with our other apple devices and ive tried every single bit of advice i can find on here but i cant get it working, has anyone else experienced this?
could it be a manufacturing fault and will apple repair or replace it?

Apple will replace the iPhone. Tap Settings App > General > Reset > Reset Network Settings. See if fixed. If still problem, Restore the iPhone with current iTunes on computer. See if fixed. If still problem, make Genius reservation or set up Service and take or send to Apple for resolution under Warranty. If they cannot get it working, they will resolve it, with a perfect replacement iPhone 4 exactly like yours.

My iphone says searching for network, and I don't have any sim card on it. What can I do?

I just bought a new iphone, It doesn't has any sim card putted on it, but on the left upper corner it says searching for network, and I cannot activate this.. What can I do?

ive got the same prob on my 4s i usually have to hard reboot a couple tims with no sim
steps i go through
1. turn on airplane mode
take out sim
2. hard reboot
3.turn back on then turn off airplane a couple a times if didnt work 1st time
another way that worked for me is turn on airplane mode then reset network settings and reboot with out sim in
but the longest this worked for me was maybe 3 or 4 days it a temp fix.. it just went to searching again about 5 mins ago and i used my first way to fix it, get it to say no sim and then i put sim back in. note it has to say no sim when its on the way to be working

My new iPhone 4 doesn't work at all

You are definitely not alone with your issues. I'm on my second iPhone 4 unit, and am still having the same problems. I've had proximity sensor insanity, battery draining after 8 hours of stand-by (NO USE, just sleeping) to the point that my phone goes into a coma and has to be plugged in to be revived, the grip of death dropping calls....
But the single most irritating and infuriating problem is the signal strength/reception fluctuation. I share a house with two iPhone 3Gs users, and I had an original silverback iphone until July 2010. They all work fantastically well with no issues when I'm at home (where I am just about 24/7, since I work from home). *_My new iPhone 4 doesn't work at all.*_. Signal strength is all over the place. I did a test where I sat watching the bars showing signal strength for five minutes. In that time, I saw it switch from E (edge?) with full bars to 3G with full bars to 3G with 1 bar to 2 bars to 4 bars to 1 bar to "Searching." Then back to 3G, with degradation of bars from 3 to none, then E network appears again, this time with full strength. This all with the phone sitting on a table, not being touched by human hands.
It seems that my iPhone is constantly switching actual physical networks, and as a result signal strength is all over the place from one 30 second period of time to the next. This drains the battery like crazy, and means that all incoming calls go to voicemail--usually without my phone ever ringing.
The 3G phones in my house work great. The 1st G iPhone I have had since the week it came out worked great (though its battery doesn't hold much of a charge anymore, after three years). On my new IP4, games are awesome. The videos and photos are amazingly clear and high quality, and editing on the phone is out of sight. iPhone Apps rule. MobileMe syncs my contacts quickly and easy. The only thing I love more than the iP4 features is my iPad--it rocks.
Everything works on my IP4 at home BUT THE ACTUAL TELEPHONE FUNCTIONS. This is unacceptable. In late August, after two weeks in which I had 4 minutes of phone use, the nice folks at the Apple store switched me to a new phone, no questions asked. The phone worked so much better, I could send texts and place calls most of the time (this was now the first part of September)...except that now that I was using my IP4 to make phone calls, I started having a problem with the proximity sensor during those calls. I'd be talking and my cheek would mute the phone, turn on speaker, open contacts and edit info (with gobbledygook), and of course, hang up on people.
So around Sept. 18 I was told by Apple phone support to update to iOS 4.2, restore as new, and do two complete power up and drain down cycles. This would fix the proximity sensor and any other issues.
Well, I would love to see if iOS 4.2 actually did fix the PS, but I can't get the signal strength to stabilize long enough to have an actual phone conversation. I'm back to watching the signal strength go up and down at random (with me touching/holding it carefully to avoid grip of death, and also when I leave phone on the table with screen lock off --no touching). It is back to switching between E network and 3G and varying strengths of wi-fi from my home network. This eats up battery from 100% to low enough to turn off in under 10 hours of standby (usually 6-7). Essentially, my IP4 is back to being unusable as a phone.
So I did another long, involved call to Apple tech support on 9/18. They tell me that I have to turn off wi-fi, turn off 3G, turn off push/fetch and notifications, shut all apps (no multi-tasking) and do everything but switch my phone to airplane mode--and see if the battery holds up for 24 hours in standby. If that didn't work, I should restore from new, but not load any contacts or network or data or anything--just leave it as it would be out of the box new.
As a test, I turned everything off as advised: 3G, wi-fi, push, etc. Now my battery life is back to normal, where I can have the IP4 on stand-by for up to two full days before needing a recharge. Fabulous. BUT IT'S NOT A SMART PHONE if I have to turn off 3G, turn off wireless, and not use email push and so forth.
I'm so frustrated I could scream. I'm quickly coming to the conclusion that there is a significant flaw in the new iPhone. Or perhaps it is just an issue for iPhone 4 users in areas where the signal strength is marginal, or where there are two types of overlapping network coverage (E and 3G in my case). I know that the networks themselves are in good condition--though I'm in a semi-rural area, the state capital is 4 miles away, and I know they have a new tower and good coverage for the politicians and power brokers around town. The phone coverage area I live in has Edge network in the south part of the network area and 3G in the north part, which is the state capital. I'm right in between. Could this be the problem? AT&T says no, it's Apple's fault.
Message was edited by: HighSierra

So what to do besides complain? Troubleshoot?
I just wonder if all of us who have had chronic signal strength and "Searching for network" issues that totally drain the battery might have something in common, despite being all over the world? I'm using wi-fi 95% of the time, and live in a semi-rural area with overlapping networks run by same carrier. Apple folks hinted that maybe in my area the network usage is nearing capacity (resulting in getting kicked off of 3G and down to E as new calls are placed that strain capacity). They also hinted there could be interference from mountains or other objects. But here's the thing--3G phones work fine, and my IP4 works fine when I'm away from home, usually in the capital city on strong 3G network. (When I say "works fine I mean the signal is good and calls go through, I haven't tested battery drain away from home yet).
I have to conclude that the problem is the IP4 itself--something about the hardware or the software (namely, the way it connects to the phone network) is horribly wrong. Other folks who live in urban areas or with strong networks that (likely) aren't over-utilized don't seem to have this issue. After reading through these pages, it also seems the wi-fi may be a major culprit in draining the battery and in varying signal strength (this is from Apple phone support, which said that varying signal strength and the constant pinging off the home wi-fi is creating a "power struggle" and keeping the phone constantly looking for the best connection option). Mind you, 3G iphones on the same home network have no problems whatsoever.
So while I'm not a technical expert, it seems like the problem HAS to lie in the differences in the way the IP4 connects to the cellular and/or wi-fi network. And since the connection/signal strength problem was "resolved" on my replacement phone, but then "broken" again by the software update of iOS 4.2, I'm leaning toward this being a software issue. I've offered to help Apple troubleshoot, and I'm trying to be patient--because the IP4 is a work of art and I've never had an issue with an Apple product before. But all they want me to do is restore, restore, reload, restore, and then drive 1 hour to the nearest Apple store (in Reno, NV) and get a new phone...and start the whole process over again. I don't have time for this, I need my phone back.
I'm this close to trading in my beautiful but flawed IP4 for a 3G. Maybe I should just get a new battery for my original iPhone from 2007?
I understand that Apple can't test for every possible variable of use all over the world, but they don't even seem to acknowledge that they have a problem with the IP4 that will not be resolved by replacing it with a new unit. They want me to believe it's a fluke, or it's just me...but I've been combing these threads and see a lot of people reporting the same issues I am--battery drain and wildly fluctuating signal strength issues, wi-fi problems, and dropped calls. Can't someone get on this? Because otherwise Apple is going to have to admit that their IP4 is not a good solution for people who live in areas of less than perfect signal strength or use wifi or whatever demonic combo I have in my home/work setting.
Or people will have to do what I have done--if you who want the cool IP4 non-phone features, you will have to dumb down your IP4 in order to have it be even moderately useful as *a phone.* For $599 I expected better.
My (temporary) workaround?
To spare the battery:
*Turn off wi-fi (which *****, because now I have to burn minutes when I'm at work using the email, downloads, safari, etc--and it's E network, so it's SLLOOOOOOOW)
*turn off push and fetch, have mail get new messages manually
*turn off data roaming
To keep the signal somewhat stable (making it easier to complete calls and spare battery)
*Turn off 3G (this leaves me on E network--fabulous, I had that with my 3 year old iPhone)
*grip IP4 between two fingers placed at the top of the phone, away from death zone. Tough for us lefty phone users.
*pray the free bumper will a) come soon and b) help. I'm not optimistic.
To keep proximity sensor from going nuts and dropping calls, muting, turning on speaker etc:
*use headset or bluetooth (unless you are also having one of the known bluetooth issues!)
*keep phone pressed to one ear and don't move it a millimeter. Don't shift sides, don't hold phone with your shoulder, just keep it to one ear and talk fast).
I'm about out of patience. I understand that lots of folks have and love their IP4s. I'd love to be one of those people. I'm open to suggestions and have spent many hours on phone with tech support, restoring my phone, reloading data and apps--there has to be a better way.
Sorry for the thread-jacking, but someone from Apple has got to be following these threads--help us!
null

I have a iPhone 4 and all of a sudden when I answer a phone call the person on the other end can't hear me ???? I can hear them , so I've had to put it on speaker for all my calls - ? Any tips on how to get it back to being able to speak normally

I have a iPhone 4 and all of a sudden when I answer a phone call the person on the other end can't hear me ???? I can hear them , so I've had to put it on speaker for all my calls - ? Any tips on how to get it back to being able to speak normally

Morning Lupoipia,
Thanks for using Apple Support Communities.
If you can't be heard by someone who is calling, take a look at this article:
iPhone: Can't hear through the receiver or speakers
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1630
Best of luck,
Mario

The calls i make go through, but i don't hear it ringing or the other person when they answer. how do i fix this?

The calls I make go through, but I don't hear it ringing or the other person when they answer. I can't hear anything when I make the phone call. How do I fix this?

I have had similar issues. Have you gotten any resolution?

I have uploaded photos from the past and they are grouped by dates. How do I seperate those photos into their own folder/album so that I can easily identify the contents. Also, what is the difference between Album, Smart Album and folders?

I have uploaded photos from the past and they are automatically arranged by date. As a result, there are many events grouped into one library/event/folder/album (not sure of the proper terminology) I'd like to separate them into folders/albums/smart albums so that I can easily identify the contents. How do I do that and do I delete the originals?

It would be good to take the tutorials and learn iPhoto - these are for the previous version but the concepts are the same and much of the command is the same - and it would be a worthwhile investment of time to take the iphoto tutorials - http://www.apple.com/findouthow/photos/ - they are very helpful and will save you a lot of time and frustration. - also the tutorials in iPhoto Help will be helpful - while iPhoto is easy and intuitive it does have a learning curve and it will save you time and pain if you spend a few minutes learning the basics
as to organization - events are generally time based and are the basic automatic organization - you can merge and split them to make them work better for you but they are not a good way to do detailed organization - best to leave them time based
albums are logical things that contain photos and are just pointers to the photo in the event so they take no extra space and all changes to a photo anywhere are reflected everywhere
Smart albums are the same except they are automatically filled based on the criteria you set when you create them
Folders are containers that you create and a folder can contain albums, smart albums or other folders so they are a big help in organization - like a vacation folder that holds folders for France, USA, China with each of thos folders holding albums of photos from the country
LN

I have downloaded a number of songs on my old iphone 4 but it died before i had a chance to sync with my comp. now i have a new iphone and cant down load any of the songs i once had and have paid for. any ideas??

I had downloaded a number of songs on my old iphone 4, but it died before i had a chance to sync with my comp. now i have a new iphone and cant down load any of the songs i once had and have paid for. any ideas??

If you live in the US launch the iTunes store, then tap Purchases, then the "not on this phone" tab. If you don't live in the US you will have to buy them again, unless the iTunes Store support staff takes pity on you when you email them with a request for help.
BTW, how many songs can you download between daily syncs?

I have lost my iphone4 and i guess the theft have already clear up the data include my mails and so on. what can i do? i use the iphone only 2months and i dont have any icloud or mobileme acc. how apple can help me?

i have lost my iphone4 and i guess the theft have already clear up the data include my mails and so on. what can i do? i use the iphone only 2months and i dont have any icloud or mobileme acc. how apple can help me?

Apple can't/won't help you:
Reporting a lost or stolen Apple product - http://support.apple.com/kb/ht2526 - "... Apple does not have a process to track or flag lost or stolen product..."
Texas Mac Man links on lost/stolen i-devices - https://discussions.apple.com/message/18781718
Contact the police about the theft. Change passwords on any accounts used with the device. Contact the carrier about discontinuing service and possibly blocking future contracts with the phone. Shop for a new phone.

I doesn't have any space left on my MacBook Pro what can I do?

Hi can please get some help with this: my macbookpro retina doesn't have any disk space left and you can't upgrade it, what can I do?

your computer is NOT a storage device
clear cut case
You need to change the premise of your SSD use.
see here:
Your Solid State Drive and having enough space inside your Macbook Air & Pro
Solid State Drive usage premise, or the “more space / upgrade SSD” question
There have been questions posed and positions taken by many people who are trying to use their Macbook Air or Pro’s solid state drive (SSD) as a mass media storage device, for either pictures, videos, massive music collections or all three combined; but this should not be the working premise of a ‘limited’ SSD and its use.
In which, it’s the case of those users with either 128GB, 256GB, or even 512GB of internal SSD space, that have or are running “out of space”, that questions are raised. The immediate premise of some users can sometimes be “(how to / if) upgrading my SSD” when in fact in nearly all instances another approach is the logical and sensible one that needs to be looked into and exercised.
Any Macbook containing a SSD should be idealized as a ‘working platform’ notebook containing all your applications, documents, and weekly or bi-weekly necessary files. All collections of media files such as pictures, music, and videos, unless directly needed should be kept off the notebook and on an external hard drive or likewise. While the ‘working platform’ premise is also the case with larger internal conventional hard drives of 1TB+, its implementation isn't as critical except in terms of data protection.
Realistically, you should at most coordinate roughly 20 to 25% of your total SSD space to all audio-video personal use media (picture / music / video collections), leaving the remaining amount on an external HD.
Nobody should consider any notebook a data storage device at any time under any circumstance, rather a data creation, sending, and manipulation device; and in the case of a SSD, this is more important for purposes of having sufficient working space on the SSD and reducing SSD ‘bloat’ in which cases someone is wrongly attempting to use the SSD space as a large media storage nexus.
The rare exception to the collective usage and premise of SSD use in which a much larger SSD is truly needed are for those in video and photography professions that require both the extremely fast speeds of the SSD and the onboard storage for large and or many video and photography files. However this also falls under the premise of a ‘working platform’ for such peoples rather than the intent of many who are using the SSD as passive and static data storage for media files very infrequently needed or accessed.
All on-notebook data collections should be logically approached as to necessity, and evaluated as to whether it is active or passive data that likely doesn’t need to be on the notebook, allocations of space-percentages to as-needed work and use, apportioning space for your entertainment media, and questioning whether it should it be on the notebook for more than short-term consumption.
Considerations should be made in the mind of any user in differentiating the necessary system data (System hub) comprising the Mac OSX, applications, necessary documents that both must and should be on your internal SSD, and that of the users personal data (Data hub) comprising created files, pictures, music, videos, PDF files, data created or being created and otherwise, that likely unless being used soon or often should be parked on an external hard drive for consumption, or temporarily loading onto the internal SSD.
You both can and should purchase whichever SSD size you need or see fit, but even in the case of the largest of SSD, unless use-considerations are made, and SSD spaces are allocated as should be the case indicated above, one can easily and immediately run into this quandary of “needing more internal SSD space”, in which instance a different approach in usage must then be implemented.
However it is almost always the case, that such large media files are wanted to be stored internally rather than actually needed, in which case the external HD is both prudent as well as necessary. Additionally costs per MB are infinitely less on an external HD than an internal SSD in any consideration of data expansion needs.
A Professional Example
In the case of a Macbook Air or Macbook Pro Retina with ‘limited’ storage on the SSD, this distinction becomes more important in that in an ever rapidly increasing file-size world, you keep vital large media files, pics, video, PDF collections, music off your SSD and archived on external storage, for sake of the necessary room for your system to have free space to operate, store future applications and general workspace.
You should also never be put in the position of considering “deleting things” on your Macbook SSD in order to ‘make space’. This is especially what your external HD is for.
Professionals who create and import very large amounts of data have almost no change in the available space on their notebooks internal SSD because they are constantly archiving data to arrays of external or networked HD.
Or in the case of the consumer this means you keep folders for large imported or created data and you ritually offload and archive this data for safekeeping, not only to safeguard the data in case your Macbook has a SSD crash, or gets stolen, but importantly in keeping the ‘breathing room’ open for your notebook to operate, expand, create files, add applications, for your APPS to create temp files, and for general operation.
Slim USB3 1TB external hard drive
External Hard Drives
External hard drives are both extremely cheap and regardless of the size of your internal SSD (or even internal hard drive if the case), you need an external hard drive with your SSD equipped Macbook for several reasons:
1. Data backup and protection.
2. Redundancy for important data.
3. Necessitated ideal space for large media files for collections of pictures, videos, and music etc.
While ever changing in price, typical portable 2.5” external hard drives in USB3 run roughly $65 for 1TB or $120 for 2TB small portable USB3 hard drives. Such drives range in thickness between 5mm and 15mm, with recent improvements in storage of 500GB drives in 5mm profiles.
There is almost no premise in which a small 12mm thick 1 Terabyte USB hard drive cannot be taken along with any Macbook as an external large storage extension inside any Macbook carry case or pouch. Typically such external HD profiles are not much bigger than a deck of cards.
External hard drives are a foregone necessity for purchase with any Macbook for at the very least Time Machine backups, data redundancies, and ideally for large media storage.

My new iphone 5s doesn't have any volume when I call someone. I can see from the screen that it's calling the person, but I can't hear anything. I also can bearly hear the person when they answer my call.

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