N260GTX-OC, computer will not POST

Hi everybody,
I recently got an MSI GTX 260, and after installing it my computer would not POST. I had an 8600 GT, switched the cards out an my computer turns on for about 5 seconds, then turns off and reboots, continuously. I had a Cooler Master 500W, but saw it was only pushing 32A over the +12v rails. So I went out and bought a BFG GS-650W which puts out 40A over +12v, so thats over the required 36A. Everything is disconnected expect RAM, CPU, Gfx card, and one SATA DVD drive. I don't have another machine to test the card in, so is there anyway I can tell if the PSU is still underpowered or if it's the card?
Full specs:
Gigabyte P35-DS3R
Core 2 Duo E6750 (was OC'd to 3.0, but I put it back to the stock 2.66)
2 GB DDR2-800
MSI N260GTX-OC 896MB (i hope?)
X-Fi Platinum
BFG GS-650W PSU

I live in Germany so I'm not familiar with MIR system at newegg and therefor let you correct me
As far as I know the output of Corsair psus is rated at 50°C while PC P&C rates continous output at 40°C which is a bit more ideal. Also Corsair doesn't really make psus so the TX650 is to my knowledge made by Seasonic (TX750 is Channel Well) who have also an excellent reputation for psus.
At least both are great units and one can't do anything wrong deciding between the two. It's more or less a question of personal preferences. I don't think one of them is really a better buy because of technical reasons.
I have to correct you a bit about the popularity and availability of PC P&C in Europe. Well, I can only speak for Germany but over here those units are easiely available in most shops. There's no difference to the States. Price level is almost the same with Corsair TX series and got quite low by now. Without any rebates TX650 and Silencer 610 are about $108/€80.

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    If the boot process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
    Step 4
    Sometimes a boot failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
    Step 5
    Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select your startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
    This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then reboot as usual.
    Step 6
    Reinstall the OS. If your Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
    Step 7
    Repeat Step 6, but this time erase the boot volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer your data from a Time Machine or other backup.
    Step 8
    This step applies only to older Macs (not current models) that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery. Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a gray screen at boot. Typically the boot failure will be preceded by loss of the startup disk and system clock settings. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
    Step 9
    If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store to have the machine tested. If you can't get to an Apple Store, go to another authorized service provider.

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