N560GTX-Ti power supply amps?

Did a search and didn't see this being asked.
The manual for this card states : "Minimum 500W or greater system power supply (with a minimum 12V current rating of 30A) is
recommended"
Mine is a 600W with 12V or 24A. Since there are two 12V plugs and all three of my 12V power connectors are 24A; would that give me 48A ?
Or do I need two at 30+A?

I have:
hec XPOWER780 600W(780W Peak) ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V v2.91 SLI NVIDIA HYBRID-SLI Certified CrossFire Certified Active PFC Power Supply
Specs:
600W(780W Peak)
+3.3V@24A, +5V@17A, +12V1@24A, +12V2@24A, +12V3@24A, [email protected], [email protected]
Triple independent and stable +12V rails promote the best performance to gamers
Thanks

Similar Messages

Why does my FP-1600 take a 24V .5 Amp Power Supply and drop the Voltage to 11V at .5 Amps?

I have a FP-1600 connected to 4 FP-TB-1 bases. 2 FP-AI-100, 1 FP-TC-120, and 1 FP-AO-210 modules. I am powering the FP-1600 with a 24 V .5 A power supply. There are no devices currently connected to any of the modules. The power supply should be supplying 12 W, which should be enough to power the FP-1600 and the 4 modules according to the power requirement calculation in the manual P = 7 W + 1.15*#modules. When I install the third module, the FP-1600 stops communicating. Checking the power supply I see that the voltage drop across the power terminals on the FP-1600 is only 11V and then measuring the current being drawn it is .5 Amps, which is only 5.5 W, not enough to power the devices. When I unhook the power supply and measure the Voltage it is 24 V.
Why is the FP-1600 dropping the Voltage to 11V? Should I just purchase a 12V 2 Amp power supply?
Thanks for any help
Jeremy

Hello jqk,
You got it figured out. The maximum current that can be drawn is .5 which is too small. As the current being drawn approaches the maximum allowable current, the voltage will begin to drop. Eventhough the current you measure is .5A, the fact that the voltage is 11V means that the circuit requires more current to function properly.
As a rule of thumb, you want the maximum current your power supply can deliver to be at least the double of the system's maximum current consumption.

HP vs15 monitor audio power supply voltage and amps

I have a HP vs15 monitor that I need to know the audio power supply voltage and amperage.

HI grizspeck:
Thank you for your inquiry.
I am sending you a link to the specifications of he HP Pavilion vs15 monitor click here.
Sparkles1
I work on behalf of HP
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos, Thumbs Up" on the bottom right to say “Thanks” for helping!

Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide

I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
computer build. Normally...at the bottom of that list would be the power supply, not that I
didn't think it was important, it's just that my other hardware was so interesting! Today, power supplys
seem to take a back seat to blazing-speed CPU's, Dual-Cored processors, glitz and glamour
video cards...not to mention supersonic, heat-sinked RAM and modular, gizmoe'd PSU's promising not
only over-achiever specifications, but eye-candy as well. The lowly PSU....tucked up somewhere inside
it's dark and lonely loft....effortlessly supplying us with the energy required for important 3D imaging
or just funning with the latest games.
What a power supply does is rather simple. It converts your office or home's socketed electricity to
usable 3.3v, 5.0v and 12.0v energy...that's all. A power supply that cannot efficiently do this will-
over time-cause computer crashes, continuous reboots and shutdowns, and worse...expensive component damage.
And now, with faster processors such as AMD's Athlon64 and FX line of CPU's, never has there been a time, when
choosing the right power supply is so important! This article is written for those using these high-powered CPU's!
Well...Do we have your attention!?
If you are experiencing these problems, or still scratching your head over that last RMA....could be
your PSU is trying to tell you something.
To begin with, a power supply's ratings refer to its maximum output under ideal conditions. No power
supply is 100% efficient. In high-quantity manufacturing, power supplys may not put out any more than 60% of
their advertised specifications. In any PSU, that rating can be further reduced by the effects of heat
and electro-magnetic radiation. That's where "switching" power supplys come in. A switching power supply draws
only as much current that is needed from the AC input. Buying a hefty PSU with this feature will guarantee
that you will be paying no more for electric service, than you would with a cheaper, less powerful unit.
One of the most common causes of power supply inefficiency, and ultimately failure is dirt. Dust and
foreign materials can cause the beginning of the end for a power supply, by attacking the fan first.
It begins by slowing the fan down...thus creating heat through friction, then ultimately burning it out.
PSU's with high-quality ball bearing fans are a must. They are far more durable, and not as likely to
become noisier as time goes by.
As a general rule...a failing PSU will usually emit abnormal sounds, followed by unstable voltage readings....
then the computer crashes or lock-ups, with random shutdowns, and sometimes...refusal to even power-up.
If you think your power supply is on its last leg...better to deal with it now, or face the more serious dilemmas later on.
APM (Advanced Power Management)
APM is a feature originally developed by partners, Microsoft and Intel. It relates to a systems ability
to utilize different states in regards to a systems utilization of power. On, Off, Standby and Suspend
are examples...these are BIOS features, not PSU functions. APM only requires of the power supply, the
function to turn power on or off through an electrical signal, and the presence of stand-by voltage.
All ATX power supplys are required to incorporate this feature. However, if some components in a computer
are not APM-compliant, your system may encounter errors or freezes when going into hibernate or stand-by
modes.
ACPI (Advanced Control Power Interface)
It's the latest power management control that was developed by a conglomeration of IT corporations. This interface
is O.S. derived, rather than BIOS, and all ATX power supplys should be ACPI-compliant. You should not have to be
concerned about this feature.
Line-Conditioning Circuitry
A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
the most unreliable of home sockets.
EMI Filter
This circuitry smooths the fluctuations of incoming AC currents, also known
as Electro-Magnetic Interference - EMI filters are usually found in higher-end power supplys.
PFCC
Power Factor Correction Circuitry...smooths out sudden, initial spikes in power
delivery - reducing amplitude and preventing circuit overloads.
Connectors
There are five main connectors found on the latest version ATX power supply.
1) ATX main power connector - 20-pin, 24-pin, and 20 to 24-pin adapter.
2) ATX 12v power connector (4-pin to CPU)
3) Molex peripheral power connector
4) Floppy power connector
5) Serial ATA power connector
On newer SLI-certified power supplys, you'll find two 6-pin video card connectors.
Know What You Need
When purchasing a power supply, make sure your parts list is all-inclusive...know ahead of time, what you expect to
install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
products will have specifics regarding power supply requirements needed for that specific component. Unfortunately, you
really won't know how well the PSU performs until it is installed and running your system (hopefully!) This is the main reason we
recommend the most popular brands - power supplys that have shown a duration of manufacturing quality over the years. Those are
as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
worth looking into.
If you believe you have found the PSU of choice, remember this: AMD recommends a minimum 350 watt power supply to run
Athlon64 and FX CPU's. To that, add the 30% for power lost to heat, and the subsequent electro-magnetic radiation. Hold on with that
calculator...throw in an additional 40% to 60% for the "potential" inaccuracies of specifications inherent in mass-produced electronics.
Pay special attention to outputs on either single, or dual rail +12v lines. A motherboard, CPU, and graphics card can consume up to
150 watts alone - before hooking up your remaining components. If running an SLI configured board, look for a PSU that is certified
to run that configuration...there's only a few PSU's that lay claim to that!
Broken down, you can look at it this way: An Athlon64/FX processor can use up to 90 watts off the +12v rail. High performance RAM
can take in about 25 watts for each stick of 256MB system memory from the +3.3v line. PCI cards will use about 10 watts each, while
an AGP video card can consume about 50 precious watts alone from the +5v or +12v. Hard drives? A 7,200 RPM drive...about 15 watts
each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
the +5v and +12v lines. So you see....not only is the +12v amp ratings of concern, but also the +5v line!
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Modular Power Supplys:
The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMD

Quote
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W xD. Come on.
Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough.

Power Supply and Graphics Card Question for HP Pavilion a6432p

Hello!
I have the HP Pavilion a6342p, and I'm wanting to install an NVIDIA Graphics Card either 512MB or 1GB. However, I'm not sure what is the power supply to this model (most graphics cards are saying 300-350W supply required).
Can anyone tell me what is the power supply to this model, and what would be a good graphics card model to look at to upgrade my graphics card to with this model? I believe the expansion slots are PCI-Express, but I'm not sure on the power supply so I can get the right graphics card.
Thanks!
Nathan

Quote
Originally posted by thegrommit
That 9100 doesn't even have a fan, correct? It should have no problem running on that motherboard with that PSU.
Also, the links in my sig may prove useful.
[edit] err, the 9100 is an integrated video chipset. Are you sure that's the correct number?
No the 9100 is not just an integrated video chipset and is available in both AGP & PCI form.
The Antec is a good PSU but I would recommend getting something better such as the OCZ or Enermax as they have a higher +12v rail amp.

Choosing the Right Power Supply

First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
If you want to know more, read on...
Choosing The Right Power Supply
If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
(As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
K7N2G-ILSR
Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
ATI Radeon 9600
120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
30GB Quantum IDE
TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
BTC DVD-ROM Drive
Artec CD-R/W
Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc. Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
Not yet.
I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
William Hopkins
Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
B.A., B.S., with Honors
The University of California, San Diego
[email protected]
P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.

Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs

Power supply specs

there are so many power supply to choose from ranging to a cheap 30 dollars with high watts 480 to as much as 150 dollars with same watts, what makes them difference? will having high watt make computer boot up faster and run program faster? I need help!

A power supply won't make your computer run or start any faster but a cheapie can make your system run like crap or not run at all.
The more expensive units typically supply more power, or are more efficient at maintaining power as the computer generates heat. Some are even silent using heat pipe technologies in place of high speed fans. Some even have redundant rails to maintain power in a situation where one rail may fail.
With A64 systems we usually want to look at PSU's that have high amps (24+a) on the 12v rail. More is better here as our systems eat mostly 12v. Some units today are 30+ amps on the 12v rail and while they are not cheap they are desirable as they allow for growth and provide stable power when we need it.
Hope that helps

QuickSilver G4 (M8360LL/A) Power Supply W/Dead Fan, Would Like To Discuss

Hey Everyone,
I recently discovered my Power Mac QuickSilver G4 (M8360LL/A -- http://support.apple.com/specs/powermac/PowerMac_G4Quicksilver.html) has a dead fan within the power supply. Running an open-case test shows all other fans are working fine. Currently I have a high RPM floor fan blowing A/C air directly into/against the rear of the chassis.
I've done some research on my options, but would like some help making the best choice:
(1) Purchase a replacement power supply.
(2) Install a replacement fan directly into the power supply since it still appears to be functioning normally.
(3) Purchase a cheaper alternative, but compatible power supply?
I'll discuss my research into each possibility in order:
(1) I've found a small number of sites selling replacement power supplies for the QuickSilver G4 systems (shipping not factored into the prices I'm listing):
(a) $174.00 from DV Warehouse (http://www.dvwarehouse.com/Power-Supply-344-W-PM-G4-Quick-Silver(733-800-867-933-1ghz/Dual)-p-20361.html)
(b) $179.99 from Mac-Resource (http://www.mac-resource.com/store.php?item=6612513.PART)
(c) $219.95 from WeLoveMacs (http://www.welovemacs.com/posu344wapog.html)
(d) At the time I searched, I didn't see anyone selling the same model power supply on eBay.
If I choose to purchase a replacement, I'll most likely go with the cheapest vendor since it's listing the part as new.
(2) I'm not confident enough to attempt a fan replacement, and since the power supply fan has been dead for an unknown length of time, I'm not entirely confident it hasn't been damaged from excessive heat. If anyone has a link or useful document that explains how to replace the power supply fan safely, I'd be open to the option. Right now, the most information I currently have is the physical specifications of the original fan (correct me if I'm wrong!):
Protechnic 80x80x25mm MAGIC (made by Sechang Micro)
12 Volt, 0.24 Amp
38.27 CFM, 3000 RPM (max), 29 dBA
P/N: MGA8012HS
I would probably want a better alternative if I went this route, since I didn't expect the fan to die quite this soon (although I generally run my system 24/x7).
(3) I found this other post where another G4 QuickSilver user had the same problem: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2198292
That thread has a link to the following site with recommendation for purchasing power supplies:
http://www.Performance-PCs.com/
However, I've limited experience with voltage requirements and I don't know anything about the physical connector or dimensions of the power supply itself. At best, I know the model of my power supply is 614-0157 and can max out at 344 W.
If anyone has input and suggestions to help me fully explore my options, I'd really appreciate it. Otherwise I'll land on safe ground by buying an entire replacement of the same model, swap it out, and be done with it.
Power Mac G4 QuickSilver (M8360LL/A) Mac OS X (10.3.9) 2 GHz Processor Upgrade (Giga Designs), 1.5 GB RAM, 5 Internal HDDs

I decided to purchase a replacement power supply from DV Warehouse, since it was the cheapest vendor I could find selling the part as new.
When time permits, I intend to open the original power supply cover to see how challenging it would be to replace the fan. When I do, I'll add more about it to this thread.
One thing I'm noticing with this power supply fan while it's still in use with my system: If I push on a fan blade with a plastic stick while the system is powered up, I'll see the fan revolve a little (very slowly) before stopping. Not sure if that can be a useful clue as to which component within the power supply could have failed.
PB PM - About your earlier comment to blowing A/C air against the back of the case being more of a hinderance than helpful, is that true even when the component has no assisted airflow at all? In other words, my logic in using a floor fan to force colder air into the power supply is to help cool the components within it since there is otherwise only natural airflow to help keep the PS from overheating.
Thanks!

What power supply????????---Help!!!!!!

Building new system,,,,,K8Nneo4 platinum SLi----with two 6800GT's and AMD64 4000+,,,,,WHAT POWER SUPPLY DO I NEED?????

Actually, you really do need to do your homework first. Go to takaman's Power Supply Calculator and figure out HOW MANY AMPS YOU NEED ON EACH RAIL. Watts mean nothing as many manufacturers make distorted claims anyways. And they also test their PSU's at 25c. At 50c many of those cheap 550w PSU's output will actually drop to something like 250w!! Check THIS out.
Here's the [H]ardOCP list of Un-reccomended and Unscrupulous Power Supply Companies:
Achieve
Aerocool
Allied
Aspire
Codegen
Coolmax
Demon
Deer
Devanni.
Dynapower
Eagle
E-power (except Tagan series)
InWin
JustPC
Kingwin
L&C
Linkworld
MGE,
PCMICS
Power-Man
Powmax
Power-Up
Raidmax
Thermaltakes (low end ones, butterflies are fine, and some enlight models, the TT category depends)
Turbo
Ultra-X (yes, the pretty looking ones, they are made by a low-quality Chinese company that starts with "Young". Can't get much more generic than that!!!)
X-superalien
X-treme
syar2003 gave you the best info you could have regarding a PSU for a SLI system. My personal recommendation? PC Power & Cooling Turbo Cool 510 SLI. The Enermax EG701AX-VE would be a good choice also, but for $25 more the PCP&C TC 510 SLI is definitely the top choice.
Look at it this way, you're going to have to spend $200 for a good SLI PSU anyways, why not get the best. I mean, it's just the most important component in your computer. If you're gonna spend $2000 - $3000 on your new Rig, do you really want to risk all that valuable hardware on some cheap PSU?
Anyone could buy that cheap PSU for their sweet new SLI Rig, but, they better have a fire extinguisher and $2000 handy when they've OC'd their new AMD64 4000+ and those two sweet 6800GT's and their cheap PSU bursts into flames.
We all like to get the best for as little as possible, but the PSU is NOT the component anyone should want to cut costs on.
Go over to The [H]ardOCP Power Supplies Forum and read the Stickies there.
Tons of extremely valuable info the on PSU's. Good Luck & Good Hunting.

Looking for a new quiet power supply, what do you recommend?

the current power supply rip was an antec 480 truepower. It was ok but I'm looking for an ultra quiet supply, hope to here your recommendations. TIA.

Jason, I think he would have some trouble getting them shipped to Australia from one of those stores. Beside that it would be less from newegg, look at the additional 20% off promo and free shipping. For me it's 3 days from order to delivery from ZZf and newegg.
Yes, one of the Corsairs but not HX but as mentioned TX or VX, also PC P&C 610. Ignore watts, go by +12V amps and as FP mentioned consider future need for more power when choosing. Nowdays the VX450W (+12V~33A) would be considered minimum to get and also would be considered weak for many current systems.

I want to know what power supply I have

I think I might have had the same probs as morg, how do I check what my power supply is, and also what temperature does a computer overheat at, and why is it the worst when im playing high demanding games.
One more thing what supply does a Ti4200 running at 4X need?
thanks

make model and max amps 3.3 5 and 12v will all be on its label

Upgrading Graphics card and Power supply in Dell vostro 460 mini tower

I have a dell vostro 460 with i5-2400 3.4 Ghz,12GB DDR3 RAM,350W stock PSU and msi Radeon HD 7750 gpu.I want to upgrade my GPU to Asus strix gtx 960 4GB version or maybe gtx 970 if it fits.For that i need to upgrade my PSU.So I have choosen Corsair GS 600 psu(600W),so will it fit in my mini tower.And also will a gtx 970 fit in my pc after upgrading my psu.if not then what about gtx 960 4GB variant.I am really cofused.I dont want to buy if I won't be able to use it.Pls clearify my doubts.

Plug in No post No nothing OR Plug in Post , Install Drivers, Reboot, Nothing Black Screen.There is a 6792 post thread on them not working in XPS 8700's. Any Standard EPS12v Power supply like the corsair CS750M will fit in your case.
You can test the not working theory by calling up a vendor that sells the 900 series cards and tell them you have a vostro 460 and that when you install the driver and reboot its a black screen.
Then tell them you want an RMA for a non working card and see how they dance around not giving you your money back.
The EPS12V spec 2.92 guarantees 170w combined on the 5V/3.3V rails and 20W on the 5VSB as well as 45 amps on a Single 12V rail.
http://www.microcenter.com/product/425477/CS_Series_CS750M_750_Watt_ATX_Modular_Power_Supply
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-Modular-Efficient-CS750M/dp/B00GH9NA0A
http://www.corsair.com/en-us/cs-series-modular-cs750m-750-watt-80-plus-gold-certified-psu
Corsair CS Series 750 Watt ATX Modular and Efficient Power Supply CS750M is a suitable brand I find on Amazon and in Microcenter.
Corsair CS750M EPS12V 2.92
DC Output Rating
DC Output
+3.3V
+5V
+12V
-12V
+5Vsb
Max Load
25A
25A
62A
0.8A
3.0A
Maximum
130W
744W
9.6W
15W
Total Power: 750W

Mac Pro won't start up. What's the best way to check the power supply?

Hello. I'm having a severe problem with my 2007 Mac Pro. The symptoms are very easy to describe. The computer apparently shut itself off overnight, and when I press the power button to turn it on, absolutely nothing happens. No lights, no chime, no signs of any power whatsoever in the computer. I have never had major problems with the computer before. (Although I had recently noticed some minor skipping problems with streaming videos and Firefox had started hanging occasionally.)
So far, I have checked the power cable and the power outlet. I have also reset the SMC (holding in the Power button for 5 seconds with the unit unplugged). I am unable to see any light in the diagnostic LEDs (including LED 1) when I press the DIAG_LED button on the logic board.
While I welcome other suggestions, all I can figure is that this is either a power supply problem or a major logic board failure, but I don't know which. I have a multimeter and would like to test very directly if the power supply is the problem, because they are very expensive and obviously I do not want to order a replacement supply if it would not fix the computer. Does anyone know what the best way to test the supply directly is? What pins on what cable should I test, and what voltage should I look for?
Also: No the computer is not under any warranty. If at all possible, I would like to fix this myself. Thanks for any help you can give.

Well, I may have found the answer to my question as to why replacing the fuse dows not seem to be encouraged. I cut out the failed fuse (fast fuse, ceramic, 16 Amp 250V), and replaced it with another that was as close to it in spec as I could find (15 A instead of 16). Then I put the supply back in the case.
When I tried to plug it in, I got an immediate spark, followed by an acrid smell from the power supply. Later inspection revealed that the new fuse blew, as did another component nearby (not sure what it was) where I could see blackening and the smell was concentrated. At this point, I would consider myself lucky if the power supply didn't take anything else on the computer out with it.
Lesson learned; will try a new power supply and go from there.

Looking for a Power Supply

Hi!
I am looking for a power supply for my sound blaster speakers.
The model is SBS 380. The power supply works on a 4.0 volt.
Anyone who would have a spare one to sell or to inform me where
to buy one would be most appreciated. ( I'm in Canada )
I have be been to several stores but no ones carries 4 volts power supply.
The one I have is no lomger functional and the sound is excellent from those speakers.
BTW, Craetive no longer support them and have none in stock.
Thanks,
Gerry

Jason, I think he would have some trouble getting them shipped to Australia from one of those stores. Beside that it would be less from newegg, look at the additional 20% off promo and free shipping. For me it's 3 days from order to delivery from ZZf and newegg.
Yes, one of the Corsairs but not HX but as mentioned TX or VX, also PC P&C 610. Ignore watts, go by +12V amps and as FP mentioned consider future need for more power when choosing. Nowdays the VX450W (+12V~33A) would be considered minimum to get and also would be considered weak for many current systems.

Dead power supply fan

The power supply fan on my 2002 Quicksilver Dual 1gig G4 just quit and I am obviously concerned about the ramifications. I've read a few posts in different places about fan replacements but not sure I am up to that. Does anyone have any advice / cautions about power supply replacement?
Unfortunately this is my only computer and I can't really afford the downtime if I take it somewhere. I have reasonable confidence in my ability to do the work (I've added hard drives, replaced the cd drive, ram etc.). Any tips and especially a lead on a good (inexpensive) hardware source would be appreciated.
Thanks,
John
2002 Quicksilver dual 1g G4

You'll need to remove the power supply from the computer and open it up to access the fan. Installing the new fan may involve splicing its leads to the existing ones attached to the circuit board. Beyond the fan's physical size, you need to match its voltage rating and output (measured in CFM), so that you buy a suitable replacement. The fan's noise level (dBA) should also be considered, so compare the specs on that. According to the info on this page, the fan's specs are:
Protechnic 80x80x25mm MAGIC (made by Sechang Micro)
12 Volt, 0.24 Amp
38.27 CFM, 3000 RPM (max), 29 dBA
P/N:MGA8012HS

N560GTX-Ti power supply amps?

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