N96 Blacking out problem

I have the N96 and it is a good phone but im getting very frustrated because it keeps blacking out and then i have to keep turning it off and on again so i can get the brightness back on, now i was advised to activate the power saving via pressing the off button once but i cant adjust the brightness with that and it still very dark, is there a way to over-ride this as its very frustrating and im not sure which settings disable this black out thing that keeps happening

Which version of the firmware are you running
I like many others used ot have this problem until I updated my phone to the v12
on your phone type *#0000# 
and the device manager should appear
if not v12, then press options, check for updates and the phone will contact Nokia to see if the v12 is available for your phone

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    hi, can somebody help me out on what i can do to my N96 TV out. when i connect to my tv set it display lock icon on my TV set. pls help rely via [email protected] or nokia forum. thanks

    Make sure the cable is pushed all the way into the phone socket. The last bit was quite stiff on my N96 and needed a good push.

  • How I FIXED the black out problem!

    I posted this in another thread, but thought it might get lost, so I'm posting it here in the hopes that it may help others who are out of warranty and have nothing to lose.
    Please know that this is a very diffcult procedure and if you're not comfortable with the idea of possibly destroying your entire laptop, don't even think about trying this!
    First, you will need to download the appropriate service manual for your model PowerBook:
    http://home.earthlink.net/~strahm_s/manuals.html#pbks
    Second, I would highly recommend that you go to your local Radio Shack and pourchase the correct tools. You will need a set of precision screwdrivers and a Torx #8 (I think) also. I also recommend that you obtain about 15 of those little zip lock baggies that they put extra coat buttons into (of course any bag will do).
    As you take apart the laptop and remove the screws, you should place each screw set into a bag and label it with a Sharpie. Believe me, this is worth the time and effort to do this. The service manual will list an Apple part number for the screws as you take them out. When you reassemble the laptop, you will simply find the part number of the screw you need.
    The Problem (Overview):
    My screen would flicker between all black parts in the lower 1/3 to 2/3rds of the display. Adjusting the angle of the display would generally fix the issue until it was moved again or needed another adjustment. I used it like this for a few months before it finally was no longer fixable by simply adjusting the display. One day it just wasn't fixable by adjustment anymore. I couldn't see anything above 2/3rds of the display. previously, the powerbook had been dropped on the corner by the power plug, and must have caused damage to the display.
    At first I thought it was a loose connection in the LVDS or video cable, but upon taking the entire unit apart, I found that the cable was very secure and no amount of jiggling it had any effect on the display itself. It definitely wasn't a pinched cable or loose connection in the cable.
    I then started a search to buy a replacement screen. And upon taking the unit apart to remove the panel itself from the rear casing, I would preiodically plug the power back in and power up the PowerBook to see if anything I was doing was having any effect on the display. With the rear casing removed, I noticed that applying slight pressure on the rear of the screen on the left middle edge would affect the display and cause the image to appear again perfectly.
    Obviously, I couldn't use the PowerBook this way, so I cut some narrow strips of rubber and used a glue stick to adhere them in the same spots where my fingers were. With the rear casing snapped back in place, it applied direct pressure to this same area, resulting in a perfect picture!
    The actualy rubber pieces I used came from underneath the Airport card, so if you want to use something else, perhaps a strip from a bicycle innertube would do the same trick and would be of the same thickness.
    Since putting it back together, the image is perfect. I have noticed that some [hard] direct thumping of the display bezel or hard shaking of the unit will cause some flicker, but in the past, even the slightest motion would knock the image out. So IMO, this is an incredible improvement. Since my "repair" I haven't had the issue appear once!
    If you have no other solutions to try, and are somewhat savvy with taking things apart, give my method a shot. I'm just amazed that it works so well!
    The image is of the rear of the panel. Facing you, it would be the left side of the screen. Where you apply the strip may be in another location. I don't recommend putting it anywhere except on the edges of the screen or you will likely damage the panel or introduce spots or pressure smudges. Good luck!
    BTW, you may be able to test to see if your panel could be fixed with a similar approach by gently squeezing the sides of the display while it's connected to your laptop and watching for the screen to come back or flicker more. In my case, the squeezing definitely affected the image quality: when I applied pressure the image was stable. When I let go, it went to $hit.
    PowerMac G5 Dual 2.5GHz   Mac OS X (10.4.7)   320GB/5GB/16xSD/AE/BT/Radeon x800/iSight/30" ACD/nano
    PowerMac G5 Dual 2.5GHz   Mac OS X (10.4.7)   320GB/5GB/16xSD/AE/BT/Radeon x800/iSight/30" ACD/nano

    I just switched to Roadrunner and am having the same "can't send email" problem. I have done what you suggested, but the problem persists. I did note that in my outgoing mail server box it says: smtp-server.wi.rr.com:jzelinger3 (Offline). I'm not sure where the "Offline" is coming from or why it is there. Any suggestions? I performed the following Terminal tests with a tech. support person from Roadrunner:
    Last login: Wed Jan 21 19:36:52 on console
    CPE-75-86-226-41:~ joan$ telnet pop-server.wi.rr.com 110
    Trying 71.74.56.78...
    Connected to pop-server.wi.rr.com.
    Escape character is '^]'.
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    user [email protected]
    +OK please send PASS command
    pass laikatess
    +OK [email protected] is welcome here
    telnet smtp-server.wi.rr.com 25
    -ERR Invalid command; valid commands: CAPA, DELE, LIST, LAST, NOOP, RETR, RSET, STAT, TOP, UIDL or QUIT
    This is very frustrating.
    J. A. Zelinger

  • 27 inch thunderbolt display blacks out after Thunderbolt Firmware Update 1.2

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  • Reader 8.1.2 Blacks out wording.

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    Johndes,
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    You are correct that we could open and print PDFs from another program. I used PDFPen because Preview would also pause my printer. That doesn't change the fact that, for whatever reason, Adobe Reader was the only application which required this workaround to get a printed copy. And, that happened on every later version of OS X 10.5, including 10.5.1.
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  • Problem: formatting bar is blacked out ?!?

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    ok, it works again.
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  • My phone blacked out, will not turn on, and i did not update to the new software! So what is my Apple iPhones5s problem?

    My iPhone blacked out, and will not turn on. I did not update to the new software! So what is my Apple iPhone 5s problem?
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  • My iPad will black out, then go to the home page while viewing an app, anyone else have this problem? Do I have to replace it?

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  • Problem with my laptop colour changing and some time moniter screen black out

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  • Problems With Saving Video in Lightroom 4.  Blacked-out Frames

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  • College Football Blacked out constant problem

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  • Standard def STB repeatedly blacks out for a second or 2

    A site search on "black out" does not turn up a similar issue, of course it may be my search skills are lacking. 
    New subsciber since Sep 2010.   I have 3 boxes, 2 standard QIP2500 phase 3 (basement/MBR) and 1 hi-def (LR). Hi def TV in MBR, standard in other 2.  Both standards would on occassion 'black out' for just a second or 2 ever since original install. No problem with the hi-def. One standard is wired with coax, one with s-video, the hi-def with HDMI.  When the black out occurs, the screen will freeze for an instant, then the screen goes black, then it comes back. The information on the box does not black out, the TVs don't power-off and restart. It's just the screen goes blank and then comes back. It happens without any seeming warning, and will happen at any time of day. Sometimes it will happen repeatedly, sometimes it won't happen for a long time.  Both boxes have been repeatedly reset and rebooted with no improvement.  During one tech call the tech had me relocate one of the standard boxes to the hi-def location to isolate that it wasn't a location (in-house cable) problem. I thought it curious since it was happening at 2 different locations but went through the drill anyway.  The relocated standard worked for a few minutes, then went black for a second as the problem does.  Plugging the high-def back in resolved the issue at that location. The tech said he would send 2 new standard boxes. The replacement boxes have not resolved the issue.  Any suggestions? 

    if it's doing that on two different boxes using both coax and s-video then I think that leaves a possibility of the coax.  that would be a unusual symptom of a bad coax/splitter but try this.  
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  • How to How to install ATI Radeon HD2600 driver on bootcamp 3.0 windows 7 partition w/black screen problem

    Ok....so i've posted this question in a different way, and i gotten several "scratch the surface" answers from people just saying to install "Ati catalyst", or insert the os x dvd and run set up.exe, and update  to boot camp 3.1 or 3.2...while these all seem like great suggestions, I am finding myself needing more specific direction or "hand holding" so to speak.....here is the MAIN problem...
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    ---I've been told to update boot camp to 3.1 and/or 3.2 from 3.0, using Apple Software Update....Well, my software update is saying everything is up to date and there is nothing new to download at all, and when i reverify the bootcamp version it is still only 3.0.2...and again downloading the updates from www.apple.com/support/  for 3.1 and 3.2...all of those are .exe files...need windows to run them...again, refer to the problem described in detail above...
    ---I've been referred to the black screen on imac early 2011 thread saying it should fix my problem...and reading it it SEEMED like the most promising resolution...it involves creating a boot flash drive for windows 7 and an xml file that sets the imac drivers to auto install during the windows installation..and it got me farther than anything else..but still ultimately ended up in the darned black screen...my assumption is that it's because it's for imac and not mac pro so not ati-radeon specific drivers....ok....that's enough..please...anyone who thinks they can help...your help is desperately needed...thanks so much in advance!

    hey Hatter, thanks so much for getting back...so just to be super clear...is there no way to install the drivers using an exe file given my current state? no way to do it with command prompt or something?  if can make work with existing card, i'd prefer it...now when you say it's 'toast' how do you mean?  it works well with the os x partitions and always has...so i'm not sure i follow, just want to be clear...
    Now to your point of starting with only the one drive installed...so i would put that bootcamp drive in bay 1 and disconnect the rest...i'm not totally sure what you're suggesting the effect should be of doing this?  just that i'm just installing windows without the bootcamp deal...but if windows 7 doesn't support the ati radeon hd2600, it still will go black screen no? or you're saying it will run video through the motherboard if it's the only bootdrive, and will run all the way through the windows install without trying to switch over to the hd2600?  (slrry flr these questions..just really want to make sure i understand what you're telling me..thanks so much for your patience and help by the way...it's very greatly appreciated...your support is priceless!
    So now, assuming none of the above is possible...referring now to the ati 5770 that you referred to...you mention it works with 10.6 well, and that windows 7 supports it ...2 questions on that
         1) Windows 7 supports" meaning, out of the box windows 7 supports it? or will i have to install drivers still through some update, because again, if that's how i have to do it, then won't work, cuz can't start windows to see anything to install any drivers or run any thing at all...so it would have to just work with initial installation.
         2)hardware wise for my Mac Pro 3,1...intel dual quad core xeon, blah blah....will this card work? it's a PCIe and should fit on my board no prob, etc?

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