Nattress Film Effect Question
Dear all,
I really like the effects in http://nattress.com/Products/filmeffects/FilmEffectsImages/largeHDVFilmEffectsIm ages.htm
What are the presets or settings to achieve that effect?
Is there a more detailed documentation on each of the filters along with examples? I recently purchased the plugin, but besides from a few easy-to-understand presets, I am quite lost.
Thank you,
Drinking Water
G RGB Mixer was used for the colours and gamma adjustments, and G Vignette was used to blend the edges off to black.
Graeme
Similar Messages
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Nattress Film Effects (lots of nerdy detail)
Hello all.
Firstly, I use Final Cut Express 3.5, and not FCP. HOWEVER, I've read many times that the FCP forum is a much better place to post questions about Nattress Film Effects, due to the fact that there are MANY more users here. So, here goes:
I edited a music video last year using Film Effects in FCE 3.5. It came out great, considering the (admittedly lowly) level of miniDV cams we used. Film Effects made a HUGE difference. Awesome. Best $99 a fellow ever spent, and I mean it (we even got onto TV).
BUT... During the process, I encountered a major problem, and I'm quite sure that my work flow was the culprit. I basically had the entire thing cut and sequenced just the way I wanted, then dragged the Nattress effects where I needed them (to clips in various sequences, using different filters and so forth). With nearly EVERY cut, the filter "turned off" a frame before the cut, giving it an unbearably "sloppy" appearance.
i.e. I shot of a man singing on the street. CUT TO: Woman in Bedroom, reading love letters. I make that cut with no prior adjustments to the image. THEN I add a "G Film Basic Cool" to the man, and a "G Film Basic Warm" to the girl. Presto. Sloppy, sloppy cut between the two. The last frame of the dude and the first frame of the girl: both without the effect, causing a bad cut. With synced vocals, I can't "cheat" by tossing just those frames.
The workaround, I found, was to extend the clip either above or below the adjoining one (so that it overlapped), add the filter, and THEN cut. VERY tedious, considering how many seperate cuts were in the vid. Although, it would still be tedious to render overly-long clips and then widdle them down (especially since the point of a NLE application is to be flexible).
Am I totally missing the point of what the workflow really ought to be? Becasue what Film Effects actually DID to the footage (far from the cut) was truly great. I must be missing something.
Sorry for the overly long email. I'm trying to do my homework ahead of time on this one!
Thanks,
Chris H.The good news is that the answer is simple. It's all to do with the order you apply plugins. Because FilmEffects plays with time to get the 24p effect, it needs to know about frames both before and after the current one. That means it needs to know about the frame beyond the end of your clip, for instance. Now, filters generally apply to just the in through out points, and don't apply to the frames beyond, so if you do a colour correction filter, then add the 24p from Film Effects, the last frame can be made up from a frame that doesn't have the colour correction applied!
The simple solution is to ensure than any filter that alters time, like the 24p from Film Effects comes first in the stack. If it's not first, a simple re-arrangement of order can fix the issue.
Not only does this ensure things work right, but you'll get faster rendering too!
Graeme -
Hi,
I'm shooting a film in which I'm trying to replicate the look of a silent film and have a few questions someone can hopefully help me with. (I'm using FCP 4.0)
1. I'm trying to do an iris to transition between scenes, i.e. the screen will go black and the picture will diminish into a smaller and smaller circle, eventually leaving nothing but black. FCP 4 has an 'iris' transition, but it seemingly works in the opposite manner; a small circle of the next scene in the timeline (in this case an empty black frame) will start out small in the image and increase to cover the entire screen. How can I fix this to achieve the effect I'm going for?
2. This one may seem stupid and there must be a very obvious answer, but I can't figure out how to go about it. I'm trying to make a silent film title card and have no idea how to make the border that's usually around them without it just looking like cheap straight lines. Any ideas?
3. This isn't really related, but I shot using a wide angle lens and the lens is visible at the edges of the frame in all of my footage. I've been blowing the image up to about 106-108% (sometimes adjusting the center of the image) under the Motion tab in order to basically zoom past the edges of the lens in the image. Is there a better way to go about this, or is this really all I can do?
Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.1. After you apply the iris transition...dbl-click it to bring it into the viewer. You'll see a very tiny arrow towards the top right of the transition interface...click on it...it will reverse itself.
2. You could create something in photoshop, or search your computer for 'matte' or 'mask'...see what's available. I know Digital Juice has gobs of them and you may have additional software installed that has something you could use.
3. You might try vignetting the entire video...again, you may find a matte or mask somewhere on your computer, or you could create one using the 'Shapes/Circle (or Oval)', from the pulldown at bottom right of your viewer (has a film frame with an 'A' in it). Once you've tweaked it, just save it out as a .tif and import for use as a mask/matte. There are a variety of ways to incorporate it, including composite modes.
K -
Nattress Film Effects for FCP HD
There are so many filters, so many settings. I am converting DV from a Sony 3 chip camera into FCP HD, for home movies using DVD Studio pro. All I want are the simplest settings to get a film look, with proper deinterlacing, and one could spend a lifetime playing with all the filters, and their settings. Can someone please afford me the courtesy as to which filter & settings to use for my project ?? Any and all help is appreciated in advance, thanks,
rickDo you know if it's worth the $50 extra for the tutorials which only
come in the box version?
there is no boxed version
there is only one version sold from either directly nattress.com or authorized resellers
if you are seeing someone offer a "boxed set" please email Graeme and ask him if it is "legit"
as for tutorials there are full documentation included with the plugin as well as you can ask here and Graeme (the developer) hangs out here and will help (as will others)
DAVE -
Film effects question of sorts
I don't deal a lot in film I'm more of a print & web guy however I'm wanting to know how the new Ford Mustang Commercial was made.
Were all the effects for it done in After Effect & photoshop? Whats the process of to make that style effect?
If you haven't seen the commercail heres a link.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiyhXf_KVc0
Thanks in advance.Well, that car never existed. It's 100% 3D animation. Only the back plates are shot for real.
Mylenium -
I have Final Cut Pro. Do I need another program like "after effects" to support, (for instance) Red Giant Software "Magic Bullet"? What in your opinion is the best film effect? Thanks, Mike
www.nattress.com FILM EFFECTS
Cheaper than Magic Bullet, with similiar results. With MB, you'll have to buy the expensive version (MB Editors only does color correction) while the Nattress filters cost $100 and do the film look AND color correction options.
I use both. They both are good.
Shane -
Hu is the name of plugin to make the film effect
hu is the name of plugin to make the film effect.
can halp me,thanks!What film effect? Grain? Grading? Film damage? There's a whole lot of them. There are plugins contained in suites such as The Foundry Tinderbox, Digieffects Delirium, Genarts Sapphire and surely even Boris and you can of course by more complex dedicated tools such as Cinelook and Magic Bullet Looks. Some grain management tools and color correction are included in AE. you can build a damaged film look manually as well. Check my old project:
http://creation.mylenium.de/motiondesign/ae_downloads/ae_down_looks.html
Mylenium -
Color correction followed by Film effects = bad vid?
I have some shots at the beach, and the shots look pretty good after I do the color correction. I want to add the film effect, so composite clips using Screen & Soft light modes, and use the gaussian blur. It results in something that I totally dont want, and it looks all washed out. Color correction and the film effects work pretty good individually, but together they are just not working for me. Can someone please tell me how can I preserve the color correction, and that filmic glow at the same time.
Thanks a lotYou can move the filters around in a different order. Moving them in a particular order will change how the filters interacted with each other.
For example: You might want to do a lighting effect first followed by a blur. In this order you blurring the lighting effect. If you do the blur first and light effect next. You lighting the blur. (OR) You may want to do the color correction last for an over all color effect on the video and how it looks. If you do a color correction first the filter to follow with change how the color correction looks.
Play around with the order and try to get the effect you want. -
Aged Film effect turns my clip pink or blanks it out completely
When I preview the "aged film" effect on my clip, it looks fine, but when I applied it, it shaded the clip pink. I hit "undo," but when I tried it again later, and I applied it, it turned my clip into a blank white screen. Why is it doing this? How do I fix it?
iMovie: Adding effects to a clip with titles may make it become gray or tinted
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=301248
Contrary to what the article says, the title does NOT have to be in the same clip. -
I know.. not another film look question, but here is goes...
Hi all i hope you can help me here.
Im used to doing safety, corporate, induction videos so Ive never been interested in getting the "film look" But now Ive got a music video to do and i really don't want it to look interlaced.
Now i did some test on my HVX200 25p, and read up on it a little. Which brought me to my question.
I know that when shooting with real film cameras AND HD 25p cameras there is the rule not to pan very fast because it becomes jittery. But when i did my tests outside with my HVX200 25p PAL on a tripod (no panning) my footage seem a whole lot more jittery that film movies i see on tv. Its so jittery i cant use the footage! im to scared to do the music video on 25p.
So now i want to know, am i doing something wrong? Is the shutter speed or the way you capture in FCP got anything to do with the jittery? Or is 25p just that jittery?
Another question. Does anybody have some tips to get a better look and feel to my music video? plug ins? or whatever?
Thanks so much for your replies.
Andre MeyerHi Meyer,
The reason I said your video still looks jittery is because you have not graded or used any additional adaptors on your cam. Turning on a progressive shutter alone will just make your VIDEO look like 24/25P video! The movement is greatly exaggerated! The point I was trying to make is that once you have graded your footage and if you are lucky enough to use a 35mm adaptor, much of that jitteriness (if that’s a word?!) will not be so noticeable. Remember, if it goes away completely, you are back to square one almost! Its about how acceptable you can get with the 3 components I was talking about in my previous post.
I dont own an HVX200, but I have a V1E (not as good as the HVX200) and I find the cinema Gamma not that great as a default.. I have to tweak it quite a lot to achieve the all important contrast and saturated colours. As for your HVX, just have a play until u get a look u like. The Cinema Gammas on the Cheaper Canons are dreadful and make the cam lose all their contrast! I guess this varies a lot with the mid-priced prosumer cams?!
You don’t need to own a 5D MkII (an ergonomic disaster in my opinion unless u have the full rail kit!) to have that 35mm DOF control. There are quite a few 35mm adaptors out there that have attachments for many types of video cameras. There are users in this forum I think that use these types of adaptors with the HVX200’s. However, such equipment is not cheap.. and of course a good quality stills lens’s are not exactly cheap either!
So to summarise:
1. Use a progressive frame rate 24/25P
2. Colour Grade to film... Best bet is to use Apple Colour... this is a really good colour corrector which has various preset that’s you can tweak and work pretty good as the film look. Of course you will need to experiment to get the effect u want. Alternatively, you can use Magic Bullet Looks.. which can be use used as a Plug-in to FCP, and is like Apple Colour on Steroids! It doesn’t offer the same amount of control as Color, but has some really interesting presets that can be easily tweaked.. and the good things is, this is all done without leaving FCP.. so its quick.
3. If you want to go the whole way and go for a 35mm adaptor.. then do your home work. Do you currently own a select of still lenses? Canon L series or Nikon Pro series? Of course u don’t need the pro lenses, but in this set up the quality of your stills lens becomes really critical! Take a look on YouTube and see the effect these adapter give, they can be quite amazing! Be prepared to spend over £2500 for the adaptor alone!
4. And of course, remember technique when shooting like this.. these adaptors do stop down your camera, you will probably have less light to play with. When u r tracking etc, DOF is really critical and can be difficult to master at first.
I don’t have any 35mm adapter, i try to achieve the film look by using steps 1 and 2..the result, well... its ok but often means I have to mess about with camera distances sometimes to achieve a decent DOF. Swings a roundabouts! -
I've recently been using a new workflow, after cc and fx, I've been using film fx, curves>>white output to keep my luma levels legal...it seems to be working well, I like it more than adjusting in 3-way CC but I'm wondering if this might not be a good idea for some reason I'm not seeing.
Opinions?
Thanks, BobZak thanks for your reply. I check with the scopes and Range Check, so my question is really about workflow.
If I have several CC-3ways (with limit effect) on a clip plus some other fx, is it "Best Practice" to adjust levels in each filter? or is it OK to adjust the overall balence with something like Film FX or Prc Amp?
Is there a standard operating procedure that most people follow, or does everyone just do it their own way?
Thanks! -
If you need help quickly... Guideline for posting an effective question.
Whenever you have a question that you would like answered, do pose that question effectively.
First, do not assume that because you have tried many, many times that your question is understood by someone else. What is obvious to you may not be for another. So please state in a very detailed and structured way what steps you have taken to cause your problem, how you can replicate this problem, under what circumstances on what hardware/software.
The fact that you have nearly given up because of your problem does not mean that someone else can readily understand this problem. When you go to your doctor and say: "I have a pain in my stomach" he will ask you a lot of questions. Same applies here. Your doctor may need to know about any medication you have taken, your blood pressure, history, etc. If you want help, be as PRECISE and ACCURATE as possible.
Second, this is a USER TO USER forum. So ranting will not help. What may help is a STRUCTURED approach to describing the problem you have.
Third, do a thorough search of posts here, on other fora and with Google before repeating what has been asked a thousand times and has worn out the patience of regulars here, who have answered your question a dozen times already. Use the FAQ and the Wiki to find answers to questions that have been posed and answered repeatedly. Do not assume you are unique with your problem. Well, you are unique, the problem you have most likely is not.
Fourth, realize that even though it may be highly frustrating to you to not be able to solve YOUR problem, by posting your question here, you are dependent on fellow editors to help you on their free time without compensation, so bear with them to help identify what EXACTLY is your problem. If you lack that decency, you may forfeit their help, so why did you come here?
Fifth, consider your work flow in light of the purpose of Premiere, an editing package. If you have problems with rotoscoping, programming with APL, spreadsheets in general, word processing on a mobile phone, importing Panda bears into a local zoo, feeding nearly distinct whales in the Alps, or anything far removed from the purpose of PP, you may be better off in posting your question elsewhere.
Last:
Everybody has to learn, has the right to ask questions and be helped.
If everybody has the decency to pose their urgent, life threatening or other questions in a detailed, structured and comprehensible way, it will vastly improve the chances of speedy and helpful replies, without the need for sarcasm, bundles of to-and-fro posts without meaningful help, just wasting bandwidth.
I know I have been rightly accused of such behavior, which was the result of sheer frustration with absolutely meaningless and often pointless questions without details, structure and the like. Maybe this can be a general guideline for posters on how to ask questions, in addition to Eddie's links and How to ask questions the smart way
The most frustrating issues one can encounter are hangs, BSOD's (blue screens of death), system errors and other cases of seemingly random erros that require rebooting, restarting or similar actions, only to be confronted with the next hang, BSOD or system crash.
These errors are often difficult to locate, due to the large variety of systems, components and driver or software versions in use. This is often further aggravated by sheer lack of expertise, understanding of what needs to be communicated in order for others to help solve the issue at hand. And that list is very long.
So, in order to make it a bit simpler for the average user who encounters these problems, follow the following steps when posting a problem:
1. Clearly describe the main problem in the topic, but be brief. Not so brief as to only say: "Help!" or "URGENT" or another meaningless statement but get to the point, like: "PP crashes on opening, requiring a reboot" or "Using DL the system hangs upon return to PP". You get the point.
2. Briefly describe your hardware, software, OS and versions in use, including disk setup, video card and driver versions, etc.
3. Describe source material, including codec (not AVI, which is not a codec), project settings and other relevant info.
4. Describe as accurately as possible what you did, what steps you took, what happened at what moment and what you did to try to resolve it.
5. Go to Start/Run, type in DXDIAG, enter and save all information to a TXT file. Include a link to that file in your post.
6. Go to Start/Run, type in MSINFO32 (or similar for 64 bit OS), enter and save the results as a .NFO file. Include a link to that file in your post.
7. Download Process Explorer , and either post a screen shot or a link to the results.
8. Make a screen shot of the results of SpeedFan or HW Monitor and include that in your post.
When you perform these basic steps, you avoid endless questions about your system and people may be able to help you faster.
If you feel up to it, take a look at The Case of the Unexplained to start your own troubleshooting.
Hope this helps to post more meaningful questions and get an answer much quicker.Whenever you have a question that you would like answered, do pose that question effectively.
First, do not assume that because you have tried many, many times that your question is understood by someone else. What is obvious to you may not be for another. So please state in a very detailed and structured way what steps you have taken to cause your problem, how you can replicate this problem, under what circumstances on what hardware/software.
The fact that you have nearly given up because of your problem does not mean that someone else can readily understand this problem. When you go to your doctor and say: "I have a pain in my stomach" he will ask you a lot of questions. Same applies here. Your doctor may need to know about any medication you have taken, your blood pressure, history, etc. If you want help, be as PRECISE and ACCURATE as possible.
Second, this is a USER TO USER forum. So ranting will not help. What may help is a STRUCTURED approach to describing the problem you have.
Third, do a thorough search of posts here, on other fora and with Google before repeating what has been asked a thousand times and has worn out the patience of regulars here, who have answered your question a dozen times already. Use the FAQ and the Wiki to find answers to questions that have been posed and answered repeatedly. Do not assume you are unique with your problem. Well, you are unique, the problem you have most likely is not.
Fourth, realize that even though it may be highly frustrating to you to not be able to solve YOUR problem, by posting your question here, you are dependent on fellow editors to help you on their free time without compensation, so bear with them to help identify what EXACTLY is your problem. If you lack that decency, you may forfeit their help, so why did you come here?
Fifth, consider your work flow in light of the purpose of Premiere, an editing package. If you have problems with rotoscoping, programming with APL, spreadsheets in general, word processing on a mobile phone, importing Panda bears into a local zoo, feeding nearly distinct whales in the Alps, or anything far removed from the purpose of PP, you may be better off in posting your question elsewhere.
Last:
Everybody has to learn, has the right to ask questions and be helped.
If everybody has the decency to pose their urgent, life threatening or other questions in a detailed, structured and comprehensible way, it will vastly improve the chances of speedy and helpful replies, without the need for sarcasm, bundles of to-and-fro posts without meaningful help, just wasting bandwidth.
I know I have been rightly accused of such behavior, which was the result of sheer frustration with absolutely meaningless and often pointless questions without details, structure and the like. Maybe this can be a general guideline for posters on how to ask questions, in addition to Eddie's links and How to ask questions the smart way
The most frustrating issues one can encounter are hangs, BSOD's (blue screens of death), system errors and other cases of seemingly random erros that require rebooting, restarting or similar actions, only to be confronted with the next hang, BSOD or system crash.
These errors are often difficult to locate, due to the large variety of systems, components and driver or software versions in use. This is often further aggravated by sheer lack of expertise, understanding of what needs to be communicated in order for others to help solve the issue at hand. And that list is very long.
So, in order to make it a bit simpler for the average user who encounters these problems, follow the following steps when posting a problem:
1. Clearly describe the main problem in the topic, but be brief. Not so brief as to only say: "Help!" or "URGENT" or another meaningless statement but get to the point, like: "PP crashes on opening, requiring a reboot" or "Using DL the system hangs upon return to PP". You get the point.
2. Briefly describe your hardware, software, OS and versions in use, including disk setup, video card and driver versions, etc.
3. Describe source material, including codec (not AVI, which is not a codec), project settings and other relevant info.
4. Describe as accurately as possible what you did, what steps you took, what happened at what moment and what you did to try to resolve it.
5. Go to Start/Run, type in DXDIAG, enter and save all information to a TXT file. Include a link to that file in your post.
6. Go to Start/Run, type in MSINFO32 (or similar for 64 bit OS), enter and save the results as a .NFO file. Include a link to that file in your post.
7. Download Process Explorer , and either post a screen shot or a link to the results.
8. Make a screen shot of the results of SpeedFan or HW Monitor and include that in your post.
When you perform these basic steps, you avoid endless questions about your system and people may be able to help you faster.
If you feel up to it, take a look at The Case of the Unexplained to start your own troubleshooting.
Hope this helps to post more meaningful questions and get an answer much quicker. -
From "Video" to "Film" effects plugin ...
Hi,
Does anyone know/have any plugins that can give video that really "film" type effect? I've tried doing it using Color Correction & 3 Way but someone told me there may be plugins for it?
Or any other plugins you may think would come in handy? Is it worth investing in Magic Bullet?
Ali.Is it worth investing in Magic Bullet?< </div>
If you can make it pay for itself, sure.
The film look from video is a terribly overworked cliché. It works when appropriate but so many of us slap it on in hopes of somehow improving bad video or satisfying some director's pedestrian concept.
A filmish end result starts in preproduction. Choose your lighting, shutter speeds, codecs, lenses, and sound systems to achieve a satisfying style. Scewing around in post is dreadfully inefficient the firs few times mostly because "film look" is totally subjective.
bogiesan -
If you have 2 monitors like i do, how do i get the film strip to appear on the 2nd screen.
For an example of what i mean if you press the F key you get the image selected in full screen in your current main screen, scroll the mouse down the screen and get the film strip.
How do i get that filmstrip when the image selected in the browser is already displayed at full screen on an alternate monitor?
Hope that makes sense!
CheersDid you "reorganize" them outside of LR? If so, LR has lost track of the images. You'll need to click the Question Mark on one at the highest level directory you can and point LR to the file. LR will try to re-locate the rest but you may need to do this for each changed branch.
-
I recently installed PS CC and am working with some images that I'd like to apply lighting effects to. In particular I'm trying to apply the spot light effect. I see all the appropriate controls and can manipulate the individual characteristics. However, the lighting effect appears to be getting applied to the entire image (i.e., not focused to the spot outline). The effect is like a complete layer blend as opposed to a targetted effect.
I've confirmed that "use graphics processor" is selected and that the image is 8-bit RGB. This is on Win7 64-bit (Dell Core i7 w/8GB RAM and a fast internal HD).
Anyone have any ideas here?
Thanks!Ya, odd - sure would be nice to get this figured out...
Graphics card is AMD Radeon HD6450
Here's the system info:
Adobe Photoshop Version: 14.1.2 (14.1.2 20130923.r.427 2013/09/23:23:00:00) x64
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OpenGL Drawing: Enabled.
OpenGL Allow Old GPUs: Not Detected.
OpenGL Drawing Mode: Advanced
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OpenGL Allow Advanced Mode: True.
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gpu[0].glGetIntegerv[GL_MAX_DRAW_BUFFERS]=[8]
gpu[0].glGetIntegerv[GL_MAX_VERTEX_UNIFORM_COMPONENTS]=[16384]
gpu[0].glGetIntegerv[GL_MAX_FRAGMENT_UNIFORM_COMPONENTS]=[16384]
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gpu[0].glGetIntegerv[GL_MAX_VERTEX_ATTRIBS]=[29]
gpu[0].extension[AIF::OGL::GL_ARB_VERTEX_PROGRAM]=1
gpu[0].extension[AIF::OGL::GL_ARB_FRAGMENT_PROGRAM]=1
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gpu[0].extension[AIF::OGL::GL_ARB_FRAGMENT_SHADER]=1
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gpu[0].extension[AIF::OGL::GL_ARB_OCCLUSION_QUERY]=1
gpu[0].extension[AIF::OGL::GL_ARB_VERTEX_BUFFER_OBJECT]=1
gpu[0].extension[AIF::OGL::GL_ARB_SHADER_TEXTURE_LOD]=1
Serial number: 96040573687862543208
Application folder: C:\Program Files\Adobe\Adobe Photoshop CC (64 Bit)\
Temporary file path: C:\Users\David\AppData\Local\Temp\
Photoshop scratch has async I/O enabled
Scratch volume(s):
Startup, 915.2G, 277.2G free
Required Plug-ins folder: C:\Program Files\Adobe\Adobe Photoshop CC (64 Bit)\Required\Plug-Ins\
Primary Plug-ins folder: C:\Program Files\Adobe\Adobe Photoshop CC (64 Bit)\Plug-ins\
Installed components:
ACE.dll ACE 2013/07/14-12:09:50 79.543790 79.543790
adbeape.dll Adobe APE 2013/02/04-09:52:32 0.1160850 0.1160850
AdobeLinguistic.dll Adobe Linguisitc Library 7.0.0
AdobeOwl.dll Adobe Owl 2013/03/03-12:10:08 5.0.13 79.533484
AdobePDFL.dll PDFL 2013/03/13-12:09:15 79.499517 79.499517
AdobePIP.dll Adobe Product Improvement Program 7.0.0.1786
AdobeXMP.dll Adobe XMP Core 2013/03/13-12:09:15 79.151481 79.151481
AdobeXMPFiles.dll Adobe XMP Files 2013/03/13-12:09:15 79.151481 79.151481
AdobeXMPScript.dll Adobe XMP Script 2013/03/13-12:09:15 79.151481 79.151481
adobe_caps.dll Adobe CAPS 7,0,0,21
AGM.dll AGM 2013/07/14-12:09:50 79.543790 79.543790
ahclient.dll AdobeHelp Dynamic Link Library 1,8,0,31
aif_core.dll AIF 5.0 79.534508
aif_ocl.dll AIF 5.0 79.534508
aif_ogl.dll AIF 5.0 79.534508
amtlib.dll AMTLib (64 Bit) 7.0.0.169 BuildVersion: 7.0; BuildDate: Mon Apr 8 2013 2:31:50) 1.000000
ARE.dll ARE 2013/07/14-12:09:50 79.543790 79.543790
AXE8SharedExpat.dll AXE8SharedExpat 2011/12/16-15:10:49 66.26830 66.26830
AXEDOMCore.dll AXEDOMCore 2011/12/16-15:10:49 66.26830 66.26830
Bib.dll BIB 2013/07/14-12:09:50 79.543790 79.543790
BIBUtils.dll BIBUtils 2013/07/14-12:09:50 79.543790 79.543790
boost_date_time.dll DVA Product 7.0.0
boost_signals.dll DVA Product 7.0.0
boost_system.dll DVA Product 7.0.0
boost_threads.dll DVA Product 7.0.0
cg.dll NVIDIA Cg Runtime 3.0.00007
cgGL.dll NVIDIA Cg Runtime 3.0.00007
CIT.dll Adobe CIT 2.1.6.30929 2.1.6.30929
CITThreading.dll Adobe CITThreading 2.1.6.30929 2.1.6.30929
CoolType.dll CoolType 2013/07/14-12:09:50 79.543790 79.543790
dvaaudiodevice.dll DVA Product 7.0.0
dvacore.dll DVA Product 7.0.0
dvamarshal.dll DVA Product 7.0.0
dvamediatypes.dll DVA Product 7.0.0
dvaplayer.dll DVA Product 7.0.0
dvatransport.dll DVA Product 7.0.0
dvaunittesting.dll DVA Product 7.0.0
dynamiclink.dll DVA Product 7.0.0
ExtendScript.dll ExtendScript 2013/03/21-12:10:31 79.535742 79.535742
FileInfo.dll Adobe XMP FileInfo 2013/03/19-12:09:02 79.151561 79.151561
filter_graph.dll AIF 5.0 79.534508
icucnv40.dll International Components for Unicode 2011/11/15-16:30:22 Build gtlib_3.0.16615
icudt40.dll International Components for Unicode 2011/11/15-16:30:22 Build gtlib_3.0.16615
imslib.dll IMSLib DLL 7.0.0.116
JP2KLib.dll JP2KLib 2013/02/19-12:28:44 79.248139 79.248139
libifcoremd.dll Intel(r) Visual Fortran Compiler 10.0 (Update A)
libiomp5md.dll Intel(R) OMP Runtime Library 5.0
libmmd.dll Intel(r) C Compiler, Intel(r) C++ Compiler, Intel(r) Fortran Compiler 12.0
LogSession.dll LogSession 2.1.2.1785
mediacoreif.dll DVA Product 7.0.0
MPS.dll MPS 2013/03/15-13:25:52 79.535029 79.535029
msvcm80.dll Microsoft® Visual Studio® 2005 8.00.50727.6229
msvcm90.dll Microsoft® Visual Studio® 2008 9.00.30729.1
msvcp100.dll Microsoft® Visual Studio® 2010 10.00.40219.1
msvcp80.dll Microsoft® Visual Studio® 2005 8.00.50727.6229
msvcp90.dll Microsoft® Visual Studio® 2008 9.00.30729.1
msvcr100.dll Microsoft® Visual Studio® 2010 10.00.40219.1
msvcr80.dll Microsoft® Visual Studio® 2005 8.00.50727.6229
msvcr90.dll Microsoft® Visual Studio® 2008 9.00.30729.1
PatchMatch.dll PatchMatch 2013/06/11-12:08:08 79.542390 79.542390
pdfsettings.dll Adobe PDFSettings 1.04
Photoshop.dll Adobe Photoshop CC CC
Plugin.dll Adobe Photoshop CC CC
PlugPlugOwl.dll Adobe(R) CSXS PlugPlugOwl Standard Dll (64 bit) 4.0.1.34
PSArt.dll Adobe Photoshop CC CC
PSViews.dll Adobe Photoshop CC CC
SCCore.dll ScCore 2013/03/21-12:10:31 79.535742 79.535742
ScriptUIFlex.dll ScriptUIFlex 2013/03/21-12:10:31 79.535742 79.535742
svml_dispmd.dll Intel(r) C Compiler, Intel(r) C++ Compiler, Intel(r) Fortran Compiler 12.0
tbb.dll Intel(R) Threading Building Blocks for Windows 4, 1, 2012, 1003
tbbmalloc.dll Intel(R) Threading Building Blocks for Windows 4, 1, 2012, 1003
updaternotifications.dll Adobe Updater Notifications Library 7.0.1.102 (BuildVersion: 1.0; BuildDate: BUILDDATETIME) 7.0.1.102
WRServices.dll WRServices Mon Feb 25 2013 16:09:10 Build 0.19078 0.19078
Required plug-ins:
3D Studio 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Accented Edges 14.1.2
Adaptive Wide Angle 14.1.2
Angled Strokes 14.1.2
Average 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Bas Relief 14.1.2
BMP 14.1.2
Camera Raw 8.3
Camera Raw Filter 8.3
Chalk & Charcoal 14.1.2
Charcoal 14.1.2
Chrome 14.1.2
Cineon 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Clouds 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Collada 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Color Halftone 14.1.2
Colored Pencil 14.1.2
CompuServe GIF 14.1.2
Conté Crayon 14.1.2
Craquelure 14.1.2
Crop and Straighten Photos 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Crop and Straighten Photos Filter 14.1.2
Crosshatch 14.1.2
Crystallize 14.1.2
Cutout 14.1.2
Dark Strokes 14.1.2
De-Interlace 14.1.2
Dicom 14.1.2
Difference Clouds 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Diffuse Glow 14.1.2
Displace 14.1.2
Dry Brush 14.1.2
Eazel Acquire 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Embed Watermark 4.0
Entropy 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Extrude 14.1.2
FastCore Routines 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Fibers 14.1.2
Film Grain 14.1.2
Filter Gallery 14.1.2
Flash 3D 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Fresco 14.1.2
Glass 14.1.2
Glowing Edges 14.1.2
Google Earth 4 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Grain 14.1.2
Graphic Pen 14.1.2
Halftone Pattern 14.1.2
HDRMergeUI 14.1.2
IFF Format 14.1.2
Ink Outlines 14.1.2
JPEG 2000 14.1.2
Kurtosis 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Lens Blur 14.1.2
Lens Correction 14.1.2
Lens Flare 14.1.2
Liquify 14.1.2
Matlab Operation 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Maximum 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Mean 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Measurement Core 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Median 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Mezzotint 14.1.2
Minimum 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
MMXCore Routines 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Mosaic Tiles 14.1.2
Multiprocessor Support 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Neon Glow 14.1.2
Note Paper 14.1.2
NTSC Colors 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Ocean Ripple 14.1.2
Oil Paint 14.1.2
OpenEXR 14.1.2
Paint Daubs 14.1.2
Palette Knife 14.1.2
Patchwork 14.1.2
Paths to Illustrator 14.1.2
PCX 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Photocopy 14.1.2
Photoshop 3D Engine 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Photoshop Touch 14.0
Picture Package Filter 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Pinch 14.1.2
Pixar 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Plaster 14.1.2
Plastic Wrap 14.1.2
PNG 14.1.2
Pointillize 14.1.2
Polar Coordinates 14.1.2
Portable Bit Map 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Poster Edges 14.1.2
Radial Blur 14.1.2
Radiance 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Range 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Read Watermark 4.0
Reticulation 14.1.2
Ripple 14.1.2
Rough Pastels 14.1.2
Save for Web 14.1.2
ScriptingSupport 14.1.2
Shake Reduction 14.1.2
Shear 14.1.2
Skewness 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Smart Blur 14.1.2
Smudge Stick 14.1.2
Solarize 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Spatter 14.1.2
Spherize 14.1.2
Sponge 14.1.2
Sprayed Strokes 14.1.2
Stained Glass 14.1.2
Stamp 14.1.2
Standard Deviation 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
STL 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Sumi-e 14.1.2
Summation 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Targa 14.1.2
Texturizer 14.1.2
Tiles 14.1.2
Torn Edges 14.1.2
Twirl 14.1.2
Underpainting 14.1.2
Vanishing Point 14.1.2
Variance 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Variations 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Water Paper 14.1.2
Watercolor 14.1.2
Wave 14.1.2
Wavefront|OBJ 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
WIA Support 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
Wind 14.1.2
Wireless Bitmap 14.1.2 (14.1.2 x001)
ZigZag 14.1.2
Optional and third party plug-ins: NONE
Plug-ins that failed to load: NONE
Flash:
Mini Bridge
Kuler
Adobe Exchange
Installed TWAIN devices: NONE
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