Need a auto loan with 600ish scores, ideas?

I am trying to get some ideas on auto loans that may qualify me with scores around 600 fico. Any ideas? Capital one was a no go...

There are of course lots of facors in lending so the score alone doesnt tell the whole story but my guess is that you would have a decent chance with Roadloans (Santander) the interest will be high but you can likely refinance with a credit union within 6 months to a year at a much better rate. I would definitely begin a relationship with a credit union and see if you can get financed with them right off the bat.

Similar Messages

Paying mortgage/auto loan with a CC

Not sure if anyone got lucky enough to have a mortager/auto loan company allow payments via a credit card, but neither of mine do. They only have options to draft the payment from a bank account. With that being said, is there any backdoor way to do this? I think a cash advance on the credit card may be an option, but those can be expensive and not worth it. I've also heard of the AMEX BlueBird system. Has anyone used this? Thanks

DomLS3 wrote:
Not sure if anyone got lucky enough to have a mortager/auto loan company allow payments via a credit card, but neither of mine do. They only have options to draft the payment from a bank account. With that being said, is there any backdoor way to do this? I think a cash advance on the credit card may be an option, but those can be expensive and not worth it. I've also heard of the AMEX BlueBird system. Has anyone used this? ThanksYes, any of BlueBird/Serve/Redbird can be used but most poeple don't want them discussed here

Use HP from Cap One Credit Card to discuss Auto Loan

Hey folk. As the title says, has anyone tried using the pull they do for the card to then discuss an auto loan with cap1 auto finance? I thought it would be a good way to investigate where I am with them as we need to get a second car soon without another triple pull.

hanales wrote:
Hey folk. As the title says, has anyone tried using the pull they do for the card to then discuss an auto loan with cap1 auto finance? I thought it would be a good way to investigate where I am with them as we need to get a second car soon without another triple pull. Not with CAP 1 one. It will be a fresh pull for another car.

USAA Auto Loans Question??

I would like to know what is the lowest score you can have to get an auto loan with USAA? I have already applied with Prestige and hope to hear something tomorrow or the next day. Just trying to find the best places to apply with. Ive been reading a lot of things here so any recommendations on who to apply with for an auto loan appreciated. Thanks

We also applied to Prestige and got an email back saying they may have a program for us so now i have to submit our pay stubs and thats it. i am a little skeptical though after reading all the negative reviews on consumer affairs.com website.They have a D rating with the BBB and in some of the reviews I read, people that were approved after 3 weeks some were told they had to return there cars to the dealer because of a finance issue. They just seem a little shady for me to feel comfortable using them. They already pulled our credit so we now have another ding. Hoping someone will approve us within 30 days so we don't lose a ton of points on our credit score. If you do go through with Prestige, let me know how it goes.

I need to refinance this auto loan!

One of my auto loans is through Regional Acceptance and it's actually one that I co-signed on but they have me as the primary (of course) and the kid has paid almost $2K and the balance has decreased so far by about $500. (Apparently one of those upfront interest deals that we didn't read close enough, but I had zero auto loan history at the time and took it with plans to refinance asap we could). Credit Score: FICO8 EQ 710 (putting that because we would like to try for GM)AAoA: 1 year (the only account still reporting an older TL)# of positive trade lines: 12# of negative trade lines: 0Income: $52KLenght of Employment: permanent disability (VA & SSDI)Previous Loan Experience: 2 auto loans that are 4&5 months oldDebt-to-Income (DTI): 19% (this includes the payment on the current loan for this vehicle if that makes any difference)Year of Car: 2011Miles: 38KPurchase/Refinance: RefinanceRequested loan term (XX Months): 72 or lessDown payment amount: $0 (the kid just put $7500 down when he bought it 3 months ago)Co-borrower/Co-Signer: Will be co-joint with my kid. This and a Cap1 QS1 are his only TLs, both less than 4 months oldOther:

parkbuilder wrote:
Try Notre Dame FCU. I refinanced a 19% loan to 5% and was approved for a $5k Visa Platinum card at the same time. Dropped our payment from $431 to $288. They pulled Transunion and my score was a 650.Well, I wanted to dip my toes into the water first to test the temp and so I hit your link above late last night and applied for a small personal loan. It gave me info, dates, interest, payment amounts, etc and stated someone would call me. Early this morning (around 8am) I got a call from a really nice lady and she told me she was calling about the loan and need some more info. I gave it to her. She then told me that she had been reviewing my credit report (TU) and told me that my score was very good and I should be proud of it (she told me it is 750 and that is currently my FICO8 TU Score if that helps anyone). She also said that I had a few low limit store cards and that I needed better and that she could get me a Platinum VISA 'with buying power' to help me there. Then she wanted to talk about my auto loans and asked questions about those, I explained one was mine that I drive and the other I co-signed for my kid. She said she could see that I was paying a really high interest on both and wanted more info if I was interested in refinancing. After getting her the VIN numbers, pay off, etc she said she needed to put it all together (and I guess send it through, maybe underwriters?) and that she would call me back when she had their offer(s). So now I'm waiting on that call. She did say something about the interest rate on the one car being 2.2-something, and my kid's would be 4.something. This would be great since they're currently 15 and 18 % due to not having any auto loan history at the time of purchase a few months ago and also 2 paid studen loans that had some lates on them. BoyHowdy! I sure hope this all pans out, parkbuilder! Swampthing, thank you, I keep hearing good things about Digital. It's always good to have more options in case one doesn't work out. I've def added them to my list of lenders that I keep info on

How many new accounts before I start getting denied for an auto loan in Oct? (Fico 8 score 820)

As I understand, DCU gives some fantastic auto loan terms (1.5% for its members, which can be anybody from the general public), and they want mostly 680 and above to qualify for that rate. So you're possibly fine unless maybe you hit double digits in inquiries? Now I also understand that you might qualify for 0% financing at some places; their models (the auto enhanced ones) might penalize more harshly than FICO 08 for opening up new CC accounts so you may want to be careful with that. The current MyFICO package offers those scores as well, I believe. Why don't you check where you are with all the new accounts w.r.t auto enhanced scoring?

connect4dots wrote:
Fico 8 Score: 820AAoA 9 years. 30+ accounts (more than half closed). Oldest Account: 25 years.Clean report,. 0 lates/negatives. Thinking about doing an auto-loan in October. I understand its ideal to wait for 6+ months. But worst case I'll just wait another couple months or just buy my car outright. But to get a better idea and understanding of how far I can push this. Given my score and history, how many new accounts before I start running into trouble? I applied for 2 new CC so far. I'm going to APP for another 1-2. So in October this is what my inquires will look like: (4 new inquiries)Hard Inquires with past 6 months: EXP: 2-3. EQ- 0, TU: 1-2 Hard Inquiries older than 1 year: EXP: 3, TU:2, EQ: 1 3-4 New accounts that are 3 months old: What do you guys think? Always appreciate everyone's advice and input, Thank you!!!Not sure the answer but...you're my hero.

NEED a car loan but I have outstanding collections...and no score

ok people. I need help. I NEED a car loan but I have outstanding collections...and no score. I am in the worst possible situation. My car completely went and I can't really afford to fix it. I am trying to work on my credit, just recently got a secured card and am working on paying off 10 remaining collections. (all small - total of about $4k) So I wasn't planning on applying for a car loan right now, but I figure IF i can get one it will only help my credit. Problem is I stopped using credit about 5 years ago and was advised that I have NO SCORE. (the secured card is only one month old, don't think it's reporting yet) DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A BANK THAT WOULD GIVE A CAR LOAN WITH THE NO SCORE/COLLECTION COMBO I HAVE GOING ON? Thanks, I appreciate it! I'm in a crunch as I have a rental car and just really need to figure something out.

SueNami wrote:
WELLLL... I 'could' get a junker... but my biggest issue is that my commute is 43 miles one way and that doesn't count dropping my kid at daycare. All in all I'm on the road about 2 1/2 hours per day and I'm just terrified of another car letting me sit. I know there's no guarantee with any car... but IF someone here knew of a place that would give a loan and I could get a reliable vehicle I'd feel much better about it. I'd prefer NOT to do the buy here pay here cause the prices of the cars are rediculous. If I can buy a car at value but pay 20% now, I'd do that because in 6 months to a year I can refinance an appropriate value (maybe a couple more bucks down) and then have a decent thing going. Give exeter finance a call and see if they can do anything. I got financed through them last year with ~ 500 scores. The interest is horrible at 18.99%, but at 36 months the payments were not too bad. I'm also planning on doing a refi (or maybe a trade-in) once my scores improve.Explain the situation with your scores, maybe they can get an auto enhanced score generated from your history.

Need lightroom 4.4 asmac is 10.6.8 and not compatible with anything higher. Does this come with the creative cloud? Would really like a disc but that doesn't seem to happen anymore. Currently have cs4 and d7100 hence need 4.4 to open raw Any idea

need lightroom 4.4 asmac is 10.6.8 and not compatible with anything higher. Does this come with the creative cloud? Would really like a disc but that doesn't seem to happen anymore. Currently have cs4 and d7100 hence need 4.4 to open raw Any ideas? Is this now customer service or does adobe have a customer service team . Site not user friendly. Thanks

Graham Giles wrote:
Have you seen this type of problem before? I think it could be a serious issue for anyone in a similar position.
No; but then, I've not had occasion to use TDM. I've been using firerwire drives for over 10 years, both FW400 and FW800, with no issues except a bit of instability using a B&W G3 machine.
TDM should be safe. Using cautious, manual copying of files from the Target machine to the Host machine should not result in unexpected loss of files or damage to the Target drive's directories. It should behave exactly the same as if it were an external (to the Host) firewire drive.
• I don't suppose there is anything I can do to 'put back' lost items from a separate Time Machine drive which has an up to date backup on it.
There is probably a way to do that - seems to me that's one of the reasons for a Time Machine volume.
On the other hand, if the Time Machine volume is rigidly linked to the now-absent OS on the original drive, there may be no way to effectively access the files in the TM archive.
I know that using a cloned drive would work well in this instance.
I have no experience with Time Machine, so perhaps someone who has will chime in with suggestions.
With the machine in TDM with the other machine, have you tried running Disk Utility to see if you can effect repairs to the drive?

I bought this MAC from a family member. Did everything need to change items to my apple id. Today I did the update for IOS Yosemite now the app store is auto filling with someone else id?? But they seem to be my apps??

I bought this MAC from a family member. Did everything need to change items to my apple id. Today I did the update for IOS Yosemite now the app store is auto filling with someone else id?? But they seem to be my apps??

If you didn’t erase the drive and install using you AppleID, then the OS and the purchased apps are still registered to the other AppleID. You cannot change that by logging into iCloud. Apps are forever tied to the AppleID used to purchase/download them.
You have to erase the drive and download/install the Apps using your AppleID.

NASA Auto Loan Questions

So I recently got approved for NASA membership and CC. I am also toying with the idea of getting a new car or truck. Currently drive a 07 Accord that has been paid of for a few years now. While I love having 0 car payments I kinda want something more sporty.
Anyone have any experience with NASA auto loans and their process? Im probably gonna shoot for end of year should I take on a new vehicle. My approval score for NASA according to the paperwork was 666Ex but myFico had me in the 640s so not sure what version they pull. Currently myFico has me in the 670s and that should only get better.
Any thoughts, help or even recommendations would be amazing. :-)
-aloha

Aloha , Congrats on your approval membership with NASA Cu.first, I would agree with you to wait until you improve your score, try to keep that beast first premier,Fingerhut down to a very low balance even $0 balance, its good to rebuild your credit but in the long run, it time you outgrew the high interest cards,Now that you got approved CC,with NASA try to put usage with card and build up good payment history try to keep your utilities down under 20% when your ready to..I have a Checking account with NASA, others a happy but am in favor with NFCU, they are more in the same , my opinion NFCU better customer service. That being said, NASA CU products in comparison are virtually the same, good rates, competitively, I receive offers, the only headache I have with NASA when your need assistance, after hours can be a pain, but otherwise, stick to your goals now your in with NASA and already have been aproved for a cc. You should be in good shape by the end of the year, sporting down the Kaumualiʻi Highway Again , Ho'omaika'i ana , Pomaikai

NASS Auto Loan Questions

So I recently got approved for NASA membership and CC. I am also toying with the idea of getting a new car or truck. Currently drive a 07 Accord that has been paid of for a few years now. While I love having 0 car payments I kinda want something more sporty.
Anyone have any experience with NASA auto loans and their process? Im probably gonna shoot for end of year should I take on a new vehicle. My approval score for NASA according to the paperwork was 666Ex but myFico had me in the 640s so not sure what version they pull. Currently myFico has me in the 670s and that should only get better.
Any thoughts, help or even recommendations would be amazing. :-)
-aloha

Many of the subprime banks are going to cap how old the car can be and how many miles the car can have and a 4runner (while a great bullet proof choice) at that price probably is not going to fall in those perimeters if I had to guess.but check capitalone.com and you can get pre-qual for used car loan

Need advice helping raising my Fico score (571)

Hi guys, Long time lurker, first time poster. Long story short, I had a chapter 7 bankruptcy discharged September 2014. At that time, my Fico score rose 9 points to 584. Since that time, my Fico score dropped to 544, and has seen a very mild increase up to today’s date at 574. I don’t have any of my own credit cards, although I am an authorized user on all of my fiancés Credit Cards. Between her and I we have two installment (auto) loans. She has the following Credit Cards, with the credit limits in the first column, with our typical balances in the next column (first 5 cards are paid off in full each month by due date, the last 4 cards have running balances on them that are targeted to be paid off at various points in the next year) : American Express Blue Cash Everday: $2000 $200 10.0% Target Visa Credit Card: $6500 $600 9.2% Wal-Mart Mastercard: $6000 $400 6.7% Toys R Us Mastercard: $8000 $200 2.5% Kohl's Credit Card: $1500 $100 6.7% Kay Jewelers Credit Card: $7650 $700 9.2% will be paid off on 10/1/15Best Buy Credit Card: $3000 $2900 96.7% will be paid off on 2/10/16Citi Diamond Preferred Card: $8800 $7800 88.6% will be paid off on 6/3/15Capital One Card: $7000 $3300 48.5% will be paid off on 9/30/16 My question is: Do I need to add credit cards for just me, instead of being an authorized user on her cards? All of the cards I am added as an authorized user for are added to my credit report, and I thought with having multiple balances reporting each month that my score would change, but it really hasn’t at all. Does my bankruptcy really keep my score weighed down so much? Today I applied for a Capital One Quicksilver1 Unsecured card and was approved with a $1000 limit and I will start using that monthly. Should I apply for additional cards just under my name? I know that keeping most if not all cards below a 10% utilization rate is key, and we are trying to get there and hopefully won’t have any outstanding balances in one years time. However, I am curious as to what tips and advice I can get at helping raise my score. I figured that my score would be higher than it currently is, but clearly I am not doing the right things in raising it. Our plan is to purchase a new home next fall (she currently owns our current home just under her name), but by the time we are married next summer, it would be nice to have both of our incomes considered for a new house loan, and I certainly won’t help out that situation with my garbage credit rating. Thanks guys.

NormanFH wrote:
sanders_tj wrote:
I was approved for $1000 limits on both the Quicksliver One card and the Platinum. Those both should be sent to me in the next week or two. We will be starting to move the charges we currently use on the Target credit card (groceries), the Toys R Us card (dinner, activites, etc.) and the Wal-Mart Card (fuel) over to the AmEx card in order to take advantage of the cash back so there won’t be much of a balance (if any at all) on any of those 3 cards. I figured instead of paying some of our utility type bills such as cell phone, cable, internet, gas, electric, etc. I would put those on my Quicksilver One card and pay them off each month, just as I would normally do with the cash in our checking account. I don’t know what I will use the Platinum card for, but I’ll find a use for them. As for the first reply I received, yes, some of the balances are high on a few cards. Those aren’t charges of us just racking up debt for fun. Life happened (child custody case with my ex, vet bills, etc.). As I already stated, we have a payment schedule set up to pay off those high balances within the next year. Normally, we don’t carry that high of debt on our cards. And best of all, we don’t miss payments. EDIT: Is there no effect to my credit report (or is the effect not as substantial?) if I am an authorized user as opposed to the sole card owner?Remove yourself from the AU status on the four cards that have the high balances. No sense in letting those balances hurt both of your scores.PIF before the statement closing date ALL cards except for one. Allow that one card to report a balance of under 10%. That strategy will always put you in maximum FICO score territory. Request CLI's on both Cap One cards after the third statement. Don't wait for the credit steps. You will still get a credit steps auto increase at the sixth month+1

Need advice helping raising my Fico score (574)

Hi guys, Long time lurker, first time poster. Long story short, I had a chapter 7 bankruptcy discharged September 2014. At that time, my Fico score rose 9 points to 584. Since that time, my Fico score dropped to 544, and has seen a very mild increase up to today’s date at 574. I don’t have any of my own credit cards, although I am an authorized user on all of my fiancés Credit Cards. Between her and I we have two installment (auto) loans. She has the following Credit Cards, with the credit limits in the first column, with our typical balances in the next column (first 5 cards are paid off in full each month by due date, the last 4 cards have running balances on them that are targeted to be paid off at various points in the next year) : American Express Blue Cash Everday: $2000 $200 10.0% Target Visa Credit Card: $6500 $600 9.2% Wal-Mart Mastercard: $6000 $400 6.7% Toys R Us Mastercard: $8000 $200 2.5% Kohl's Credit Card: $1500 $100 6.7% Kay Jewelers Credit Card: $7650 $700 9.2% will be paid off on 10/1/15Best Buy Credit Card: $3000 $2900 96.7% will be paid off on 2/10/16Citi Diamond Preferred Card: $8800 $7800 88.6% will be paid off on 6/3/15Capital One Card: $7000 $3300 48.5% will be paid off on 9/30/16 My question is: Do I need to add credit cards for just me, instead of being an authorized user on her cards? All of the cards I am added as an authorized user for are added to my credit report, and I thought with having multiple balances reporting each month that my score would change, but it really hasn’t at all. Does my bankruptcy really keep my score weighed down so much? Today I applied for a Capital One Quicksilver1 Unsecured card and was approved with a $1000 limit and I will start using that monthly. Should I apply for additional cards just under my name? I know that keeping most if not all cards below a 10% utilization rate is key, and we are trying to get there and hopefully won’t have any outstanding balances in one years time. However, I am curious as to what tips and advice I can get at helping raise my score. I figured that my score would be higher than it currently is, but clearly I am not doing the right things in raising it. Our plan is to purchase a new home next fall (she currently owns our current home just under her name), but by the time we are married next summer, it would be nice to have both of our incomes considered for a new house loan, and I certainly won’t help out that situation with my garbage credit rating. Thanks guys.

I was approved for $1000 limits on both the Quicksliver One card and the Platinum. Those both should be sent to me in the next week or two. We will be starting to move the charges we currently use on the Target credit card (groceries), the Toys R Us card (dinner, activites, etc.) and the Wal-Mart Card (fuel) over to the AmEx card in order to take advantage of the cash back so there won’t be much of a balance (if any at all) on any of those 3 cards. I figured instead of paying some of our utility type bills such as cell phone, cable, internet, gas, electric, etc. I would put those on my Quicksilver One card and pay them off each month, just as I would normally do with the cash in our checking account. I don’t know what I will use the Platinum card for, but I’ll find a use for them. As for the first reply I received, yes, some of the balances are high on a few cards. Those aren’t charges of us just racking up debt for fun. Life happened (child custody case with my ex, vet bills, etc.). As I already stated, we have a payment schedule set up to pay off those high balances within the next year. Normally, we don’t carry that high of debt on our cards. And best of all, we don’t miss payments. EDIT: Is there no effect to my credit report (or is the effect not as substantial?) if I am an authorized user as opposed to the sole card owner?

Closed Auto Loan Reporting As Open Question

I have an auto loan reporting across all bureaus as open but in good standing. I suppose that is well and good except for the fact that the loan was closed in Dec of last year. My question...would having the loan shown as open reduce my credit score or do you think it's helping? I've heard having a loan of that nature close can reduce your score so I'm not sure what to do about it. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!

Well, see whether you get any other feedback from other folks on here. But if I were you, I'd just end up having some low grade anxiety if I had a record on my report that claimed I owed a big chunk of money for something I didn't. The explanation, I assume, is that the creditor never updated the record to show that you paid off the loan. Unless someone here tells you differently, I'd reach out to the lender and confirm with them that they agree that you paid off the loan in December. If they do agree, explain that they haven't yet updated the final status of the account to show that you paid it off -- and ask them to do that. That way you'll end up with an accurate report that shows future creditors that you can manage and pay off a car loan. I have allowed incorrect data to stay on my report when it is absolutely 100% positive. This is a bit of a mixed bag: a record that falsely asserts you still owe a creditor a good chunk of change. Whetever benefit you get out of it being "open" doesn't seem worth it to me. But see what other people say.

Auto Loan Payoff

Did a bit of searching and didn't find an answer to my question. If I make monthly payments on my auto loan as usual, but make say, 2 or 3 a month, and the loan ends up being paid off much before the loan term, will the payments show up the same as if I made payments each month for the entire duration of the loan? Basically, will the credit report give me a "check" or an OK for each month, AND, will the loan remain on my CR for the same amount of time as it would if I finished paying it off "on time" and not early. Does that make sense? Thanks!

OK, to clear up some confusion here: this is 100% lender dependent on what your best strategy is in this scenario. To make one thing absolutely clear, if you make a payment you ARE attacking the principal in any simple interest loan assuming you don't miss a number of payments. This is mathematically provable. Secondly, there's usually two different payment options: regular payment which is zero the current interest, and then rest goes to principal, or make a payment directly to principal and leave the interest untouched. Now here's where it gets to the lender dependent part - two examples from direct personal experience: 1) WFDS - If I make a regular payment larger than the expected amount, it gets applied to future payments. If I push this ahead non-trivially, this goes way out ahead in the future and that's precisely what I did with them and nobody said boo. I've done the same thing on my Alliant secured loan recently, and others did it with SDFCU... my next payment on my Alliant loan is in 2018. That's right, 3 years from now. 2) DCU - If I make a regular payment larger than the expected amount, it still gets applied to future payments; however, DCU will reset the due date to 3 months ahead of time if you pay beyond that. I kicked $3K to my auto loan, payment date got pushed well in advance (had a 310 and change payment) and then I got a nasty gram from DCU telling me not to do that and they reset my payment due date to precisely 3 months ahead. Did it again later, same darned thing happened. Wasn't happy. The reasons for doing this are two fold: longer tradelines are simply better, and we've recently got a conclusive set of datapoints that installment tradeline utilization (which auto loans count into) is an actual thing on both FICO 8 and FICO 98 scores. Data all here: http://ficoforums.myfico.com/t5/Understanding-FICO-Scoring/Installment-tradeline-utilization-thread/td-p/4055989 Anyway, make some lump sum regular payments and see if you can push the balance down to some trivial amount, but do not pay it off. Auto interest rates of a couple percent these days on $100 or even $10 is absolutely trivial for FICO reindeer games, and a longer tradeline and a nice anchor to the installment utilization metric, is absolutely the right way to approach this is my opinion. The only reason not to do it is if someday you have to get a DTI calculation done for a mortgage and you're missing by the expected payment amount, then pay it off otherwise keep it for as long as possible. You can sort it for smaller dollar amounts on a DTI calc with a minimal secured loan, but I wouldn't close a pretty auto loan anytime before I had to personally... that's a high quality tradeline in my opinion, milk it for all that it's worth.

Need a auto loan with 600ish scores, ideas?

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for