Need a little h

I just bought a new system. The problem is that I cannot connect my front audio panel on my Antec 900 to my X-Fi extreme Gamer Fatalty sound card. I really need some help. What am I missing here. Here are the parts that I have:Case: Antec 900 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...tem=N82E682902?Sound Card:X-Fi Extreme Gamer http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...=N82E682902005
Mobo: EVGA nForce 680i SLI http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...em=N82E6838803

Thanks Tom --
This method worked well -- however, it didn't eliminate the strobiness of the 24 frame material.
I suppose that effect becomes even more exaggerated when it's placed into a 29.97 sequence? (even though it'd been converted to dvc pro).
cheers,
Mark

Similar Messages

Need a little help new to mac

Need a little help I'm new to Mac.. i have had my ibook for over a year now and i like it a lot, but some times my usb post dies on my for a couple days maybe weeks. Ill have my ipod connected and when i go to plug in a flash drive. It doesn't detect my ipod anymore and my usb port don't work. it says that they were "removed improperly" and now they are not working again..i have tried to reinstall the whole os again and that doesn't work i don't have the hardware test disk so i don't know what could be the problem i know its not the logic board is there any test i can do to it to find out the problem its an ibook late 2001... there is no reset button on it. i tried to hold in the space bar and now when i boot up i get prompt to this screen that shows the world and then a folder with a ? mark but then after a few sec it boots right up im a mess need some help

+it says that they were "removed improperly"+
You have to go to the iPod's icon on your computer (or the flash drive's icon), select it and eject it there before removing it. Otherwise, data can be corrupted and/or lost. Repeatedly removing it without ejecting it from the desktop can cause it not to be recognized any longer.
If your iBook is a "late 2001" model. It should have a reset button. Check out the chart here to make sure which model iBook you have:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1772?viewlocale=en_US
+i get prompt to this screen that shows the world and then a folder with a ? mark but then after a few sec it boots right up+
It's trying to find a network volume from which to boot.
Once it's booted up, go to System Preferences > Startup Disk, and select your Mac OS X startup volume. Then close System Preferences. The next time you start up, it should start up without looking for a network volume.

HT4208 I just need a little bit of help. I visited the american ap store looking for the new scrabble game which is not available in the australian ap store. Can't get it anyway as I don't have an account there. I am trying to get back to the australian a

I just need a little bit of help. I visited the american ap store, using my i phone, to check out something. I dont have an account with them so I couldn't get what I wanted anyway.Now, I need to get back to the australian store and I don't know how to do that. Please help!

Go to app store- scroll down to bottom- click on apple id- change country

Greetings, I need a little help. I have a WRT54G Wirele...

Greetings,
I need a little help. I have a WRT54G Wireless Router, and it worked well for years with my Alcatel DSL Modem (Bellsouth/ATT). The modem went out and it was replaced with Westell Modem. When I bypass the router I have no problem connecting to the Internet, however when I connect the router--no connection. I thought it would not be a problem swapping the modem out. I am running XP with Norton Internet Security and Anti-virus. I have disabled Norton and do not believe that to be the problem. Do I have to reconfigure the router? If so, can I do it with the original install CD? (I am disabled and the original CD/instructions/box is in the attic and I cannot get it easily.) I have read several different threads, but they do not specifically address my problem. Any assistance is appreciated. Eddy

Many Westell modems are actually "modem-routers" and they use the same 192.168.1.1 address space as your WRT54G. This is the root of your problems.
Try the settings at this URL.
http://www.dslreports.com/faq/6323
Note that the "WAN" port on the BEFSR41 in the example is the same as the "Internet" port on your WRT54G.
Please let me know whether or not this worked for you.

Need a little help with dial setup on CME

I've got a CME I'm using for testing and I think I need a little help figuring out the proper config to get the system to accept numbers I dial and have those numbers be passed on to an Avaya system (including the leading 9 for ARS in Avaya) via H.323 IP trunks.   I have it working well for internal 5 digit extension calls across the H.323 trunks and I also have it working well for some types of outside calls that gets passed on to the Avaya and then the Avaya dials the call out to the PSTN.   My only real problem is, I can't figure out how to correctly configure CME to examine the digits I'm dialing and only send the digits once I'm finished dialing....not as soon as it sees an initial match.
What's happening is this. I can dial local numbers in my area as 7 digits or 10 digits. The phone company doesn't yet force us to dial area code and number for local calls (10 digits). I can still dial 7 digits.   But...if I put an entry in CME that looks like this....
(by the way, the 192.168.1.1 IP is not the real IP address, that's just an example, but the rest of this entry is what I really have entered in CME)
dial-peer voice 9 voip
description Outside 7 Dig Local Calls Via Avaya
destination-pattern 9.......
session target ipv4:192.168.1.1
dtmf-relay h245-alphanumeric
no vad
...Then it will always try to dial out immediately after seeing the first 8 digits I dial (9 plus the 7 digit number I called)...even though I have a speicifc entry in the system that accounts for calls to 9 plus area code 513. I would have assumed that if I put the specific entry in for 9513....... it would see that and wait to see if I was actually dialing something to match 9513....... instead of 9.......   Understand what I mean?   Because 9513....... is more specific than 9....... but it still tries to send the call out immediately after seeing the first 8 digits I dialed.
dial-peer voice 9513 voip
description Outside 10 Dig Local Calls Via Avaya
destination-pattern 9513.......
session target ipv4:192.168.1.1
dtmf-relay h245-alphanumeric
no vad
...BUT...here's the interesting thing. If I trace the 10 digit call in Avaya, I see that the number being presented to the Avaya PBX is only the first 7 digits of the number....not the full 10 digits...BUT I see a few more of the digits I dialed (like the 8th and 9th digits) after the call is already setup and sent to the PSTN. It's like the CME is trying to send the rest of the 10 digits I dialed, but at that point it's already too late.   It setup the call as a 7 digit call (9 plus 7 digits), not 10 digit like I wanted.
I'm more familiar with how to setup dialing in the Avaya via ARS. My background is Avaya, not Cisco, so this dial-peer config is a little difficult for me until I understand the reasoning of how it examines the numbers and what I should do to make it wait for me to finish dialing....or to tell the system that what I'm dialing will be a minimum or a certain amount of digits and maximum of a certain amount of digits, like the Avaya does. I just need some pointers and examples to look at :-)   I think I've almost got it....but I'm just missing something at the moment.
Just so you understand, the call flow should be like this: Cisco phone registered to CME > CME to Avaya via H.323 trunks > Avaya to PSTN via ISDN PRI trunks connected to Avaya. I have to be sure I send the 9 to the Avaya also, because 9 triggers ARS in the Avaya.
Thanks for your help

Here is a good document that explains how dial-peers are matched in the Cisco world:
http://www.cisco.com/en/US/tech/tk652/tk90/technologies_tech_note09186a008010fed1.shtml#topic7
In your case, it is variable length dial plan you are trying to implenent. To fix it, you need to add a T to force the system to wait for more digits to be entered if there is any.
dial-peer voice 9 voip
description Outside 7 Dig Local Calls Via Avaya
destination-pattern 9.......T
session target ipv4:192.168.1.1
dtmf-relay h245-alphanumeric
no vad
dial-peer voice 9513 voip
description Outside 10 Dig Local Calls Via Avaya
destination-pattern 9513.......
session target ipv4:192.168.1.1
dtmf-relay h245-alphanumeric
no vad
You can also configure the inter-digits timeout using the command timeouts interdigit under telephony-service.
Please rate helpful answers!

Need a little help.... not major....but am unsure I have...

Need a little help.... not major....but am unsure I have the 2.4 GHz Wireless-G Broadband Router Model WRT54G version 2 I had bought some time ago (over year and a half) and never really had it hooked up since I have been moving from place to place. Now that I'm retired and staying in one place I'm ready to set up. I find myself having "several" power adaptors and not sure which is the correct one. Can anyone tell me if all the broadband routers had the Linksys name and/or logo on them? None of the adapters I have do. I want to use a proper adapter so as not to damage....are there any specs that would be helpful so that one of these adapters would work? Also I'm running WindowsXP Sorry to bother you folks with a dumb question as I'm sure there are others with far more important questions and concerns. Although I can't tell other than the end going into the unit fits, I do have one Class 2 Transformer which might be the one it's about 1 1/2 inches thick, about 2 inches tall with following written information: Model 49-12-1000D CUI Inc Input AC 120V 60Hz 20W Output DC12V 1000mA Appreciate any help you can give.....I believe my unit is an older one based on version so there may have been a "fatter" adapter then than now.

The power adapter output should be 12V, 0.5A(so 6W power rating)

Need a little help please Airport Express

Need a little help please.
I am trying to set up a wireless network at my home using Airport Express.
I have a regular phone line running in to I assume the modem. From there, there is an Ethernet cable running from that box to the back of the PC. My question is, I think, which of those do I unplug and plug into the Airport Express, the one on the back of the PC or the one that is in the back of the modem, or is this totally wrong.
Any help would be appreciated…
Thanks
In advance…
PS I have the manual but to me it is not very clear…

Your connection sequence would look like this:
Internet > Modem > AirPort Express >>>wireless to your computers.
This means that you would unplug the cable that is now connected at the back of your PC and move that connection to the AirPort Express.
Open Macintosh HD > Applications > Utilities > AirPort Utility
Click Continue to follow the guided setup. On the third page, you will choose the option to "Create a wireless network" and continue the setup.

Need a little Help with my new xfi titanium

+Need a little Help with my new xfi titanium< A few questions here.
st question? Im using opt out port on the xfi ti. card and using digital li've on a windows 7 64 bit system,? I would like to know why when i use 5. or 7. and i check to make sure each speakear is working the rear speakers wont sound off but the sr and sl will in replace of the rear speakers. I did a test tone on my sony amp and the speaker are wired correctly becasue the rear speakers and the surrond? left and right sound off when they suppose too. Also when i try to click on? the sl and sr in the sound blaster control panel they dont work but if i click on the rear speakers in the control panel the sl and sr sound off. Do anyone know how i can fix this? So i would like to know why my sl and sr act like rears when they are not?
2nd question? How do i control the volume from my keyboard or from windows period when using opt out i was able to do so with my on board? sound max audio using spidf? Now i can only control the audio using the sony receiver.
Thank you for any help..

/Re: Need a little Help with my new xfi titanium? ?
ZDragon wrote:
I'm unsure about the first question. Do you even have a 7. system and receiver? If you just have 5., you should be able to remap the audio in the THX console.
I do have a sony 7. reciever str de-995 its an older one but its only for my cpu. At first i didnt even have THX installed because it didnt come with the driver package for some reason until i downloaded the daniel_k support drivers and installed it. But it doesnt help in anyway.
I have checked every where regarding the first question and alot of people are having problems getting sound out of there rear channels and the sound being re-mapped to the surround right and the surround left as if there rear left and rear right.
I read somewhere that the daniel_k support drivers would fix this but it didnt for me and many others.
For the second question i assumed it would be becasue of the spidf pass through and that my onboard sound card was inferior to the xfi titaniums. But i wasnt sure and i was hopeing that someone would have a solution for that problem because i miss controlling the volume with my keyboard.

Need a little bit of guidance

I need a little bit of guidance.
My plan is to make a PKGBUILD, but I've ran into a few snags. I'm trying to make PKGBUILD for ToME-223-src (Troubles of Middle Earth). But first I want to compile and install it locally so I'll have a good idea of how to make the PKBUILD right and to test it for awhile. So the PKGBUILD is something later on to worry about.
I have a bit of delimma. For some reason, the developer(s) of this game have the binary for it to use suid (I'm not sure their reasoning since I'm not a very experience programmer). Fortunately, in the makefile, it uses the variable OWNER=games by default. This is what is responsible for setting the ownership of all of the files when "make install" is ran appearantly. This presents a few challenges.
When you get to the point of where you make install it, it's install rule wants to recursively run chown on all the files being installed like a nice and tidy makefile does. So if you're not logged in as root when you do the "make install" it gets choked up a bit and doesn't copy/install all the files. So a regular user account doesn't generally have needed privileges to run chown and it has to be assumed when someone is going to install my tentative package they won't either.
Another delimma is that since it wants to utilize suid, this creates the necessity of a regular user account to be the owner of these files (I don't like the idea of this game running with root privileges personally). We don't want root ownership on whatever files have their suid bit set I would think. So this will require the making of the appropriate user. Again, this usually requires high enough privileges by the person building.
This of course could be solved by using useradd in the build function, and the having builder being logged on as root when they makepgk, but I really don't like that nor feel it's a very kosher approach.
Any idea of how I can come up with an elegant solution to this? How is this sort of situation normally handled with ABS?

If a package needs chown on install, or a new user created, this is typically done in the .install script. When pacman installs the pakcage, the .install script is run as root.
Based purely on your description, my suggestion would be to skip the make install stage, and use install commands in the PKGBUILD to put the files in the right places. In the .install script, create the required user and associated permissions.
Here's a typical example.

Need a little help with syncing my iPod.

I got a new macbook pro for cristmas and a few cds. After i tried to sync my ipod to itunes i put a symbol next to each song that i got from other cds saying that they were downloading but they werent. Also the cds i downloaded to my ipod for the first time didnt appear at all. Need help.

/Re: Need a little Help with my new xfi titanium? ?
ZDragon wrote:
I'm unsure about the first question. Do you even have a 7. system and receiver? If you just have 5., you should be able to remap the audio in the THX console.
I do have a sony 7. reciever str de-995 its an older one but its only for my cpu. At first i didnt even have THX installed because it didnt come with the driver package for some reason until i downloaded the daniel_k support drivers and installed it. But it doesnt help in anyway.
I have checked every where regarding the first question and alot of people are having problems getting sound out of there rear channels and the sound being re-mapped to the surround right and the surround left as if there rear left and rear right.
I read somewhere that the daniel_k support drivers would fix this but it didnt for me and many others.
For the second question i assumed it would be becasue of the spidf pass through and that my onboard sound card was inferior to the xfi titaniums. But i wasnt sure and i was hopeing that someone would have a solution for that problem because i miss controlling the volume with my keyboard.

Quality Playback-.need a little help

Quality Playback….need a little help
I’ve posted in the Premiere forums too, because I’m not sure where my issue is in converting .MOD files, the export of edited footage from Preimere Pro CS4 or if it’s in Encore.
The quality just does not seem that good, I know it’s not HD quality, but it should be better than what I have. Seems over pixilated especially around objects.
Here’s my steps
Convert .MOD files using Mpeg Streamclip to a .DV file format
Settings Compression DV (DV25)
Standard NTSC 720 x 480 29.97 fps
Aspect 16:0
Everything else is default
Import to Premiere Pro CS5
Edit footage
Export to quicktime .mov file
NTSC DV Widescreen
720 x 480 quality 100%
codec is DV25 NTSC
Import .mov files to Encore CS5
Build menus and playlists
Export with default settings approximately 1hr 45min of edited video
Thanks
MAB

Bill
Thanks for your help and patience.
I posted a screen shot of the mov export settings I was using. I’m going to try Ann’s conversion method on the mod files to see if that improves things.
You asked about the Encore transcoding, what do you mean by that, are there other settings in Encore that I need to set?
I have an 1hour 45 min of video in my Encore project, burning to a 4.7 DVD. Encore says it’s using 3.3bg, which seems low.
MAB

I need a little help

hi i need a little help making a java applet rpg with log-in, chat, etc. and i dont really know to much about it and dont understand applet programming too much. If anyone could help, it would be appreciated. Also, since i am fairly decent at making/improving websites, if you help me i could make a website for you or improve one you already have. You can email me if you want to help at "[email protected]"

Don't just give up. Like I said, start small.
I've never heard of any pre-made RPG java classes.
Why don't you poke around on SourceForge or some java-centric project site or one of the java gaming sites. Maybe someone has written all these libraries already, although you may have trouble using these classes if you're not familiar with programming in general and java in particular. Or do a Google search.
But using a specialized API is a lot easier if you know how to use the general API (i.e., j2se).
Another option of course is not to use java at all. Many commercial games come with an editor; you may find it easier to get one of those and do a mod.

Need a little help setting up an external RAID 5 array

Hi all,
I am trying to put together a 4 disk RAID 5 array, and I think I picked up the wrong card. I have a Sans Digital TowerRAID TR4M and a Sonnet E2P (UPS just delivered). I haven't yet opened it up but the back of the box states that RAID 5 is only available with VistaUlt/XPPro. I guess I didn't notice the Windows/MacOS differences when I was doing my research. Now I'm lost....I was set on this one for months while I saved up. What kinds of options are there for RAID 5 with OSX? I suppose the E4P is just like it's little brother and doesn't support RAD5 in OSX. Will I need to go with FirmTek or HighPoint? Any advice is appreciated!
-Sean

Will I need to go with FirmTek or HighPoint? Any advice is appreciated!
Hi,
If you need RAID 5 for the Mac Pro, I would go with the SeriTek/5PM and the HighPoint RR2314. You can read more about this setup here:
http://www.amug.org/amug-web/html/amug/reviews/articles/firmtek/5pm/
http://firmtek.stores.yahoo.net/sata5pm.html
http://www.amug.org/amug-web/html/amug/reviews/articles/highpoint/2314/
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000NAXGIU/
Have fun!

I need a little help accessing my mail on my mac and my iphone 4s after changing my password on Yahoo as someone hacked my account. I can't get mail, I just get Password error every time :(

Hi people,
A little stumped for what to do here... I had my Yahoo hacked, changed my yahoo password (Yahoo is the account configured to 'mail' on both my mac and iphone)... however since changing my password I have found I can't access my mail on either with out it asking me to enter my password. When I do, it say's 'Password error'. Sometimes it re-directs me to the actual 'Yahoo' browser saying I need to verify my account, but basically I can't use the mail function on either device now! I know you may suggest deleting the account and re-installing it to each device and I feel this would probably work as well but (and this is the tricky bit)... all my NOTES are configured through Yahoo, only some are through icloud (which is odd). All notes are about 201, icloud about 77 and the rest on Yahoo and when I go to delete the account it says it will also delete all my notes :/ Now, I am a bit of a writer, and these notes are pretty sacred to me so losing them isn't an option. I don't want to lose them. Is there anything any one of you lovely peeps can suggest. It would be much appreciated.
Tamsyn

Yes, you have encountered Activation Lock (Find My iPhone Activation Lock - Apple Support). The only way that phone will ever be usable is if the owner the phone is locked to releases it (see: Find My iPhone Activation Lock: Removing a device from a previous owner’s account - Apple Support). If you are lucky the phone is locked to the seller, so you can ask them to unlock it. If the seller is merely a middleman and the previous owner is not the seller it gets much more complicated. It's even possible that you bought a stolen phone, in which case you will never be able to use it and you should return it for a refund.

I'm about to buy my first MacBook Pro and I need a little help

Hi everybody!
I'm about to buy my first MacBook pro and I have no experience on mac so I would be really thankfull if someone guides me to get an appropriate Notebook
Here are some imformations about what I want from a MacBook Pro:
1) I have a limited budget so the price can not go anywhere upper than 2,000 dollars
2) I'm a graphic designer working with photoshop, 3ds max and maya so I need strong CPU and VGA card
3) 15 inches and high resolution
4) Absolutly Lion OS
5) weight doesn't matter!
6) Ram doesn't matter cause I can upgrade it myself later when I got enogh money
7) Hard capacity doesn't matter (I can upgrade it later too)
8) It would be much better if it got HDMI port
That's all
Thanks for reading and answering

Except for #8, you're talking about the new entry-level MacBook Pro for $1,799.00 (see at http://store.apple.com/us/configure/MD103LL/A). It's a little less expensive at Amazon and you won't have to pay tax on it until you file next year instead of up-front.
It will do everything you need and, yes, you can upgrade it yourself when you get more cash. In fact, if you're willing to spend another $160 (still under your $2K limit) you can go ahead and upgrade the RAM to 16 GB. Later, spend $400 and put in a 512GB SSD.
Now to item #8. From monoprice, you can get a Thunderbolt-to-HDMI adapter for under $7 - click here.
You'll have exactly what you need for under $2K. Go for it...
Clinton

Need a Little Help with Understanding How Layers Work in PSE

I have PSE version 5 and I am using it on a PC with Windows XP.
As I get more into editing photos, I am enjoying it, but confusion is also starting to set in. My question is about layers. When I go to edit a photo for web/email use only, I start by resizing it to 72 ppi and then reducing the pixel dimensions quite a bit. Then after that I normally go through this process of editing the photos by using normally about three different commands. One is Levels, then I may go to Shadows/Highlights, and then my last command is always sharpening. I used to do this all on one layer, but then finally learned to put each one of these editing features on their own layer so I can make changes/deletions without too much trouble.
When I started doing the separate layers, I was just making a copy of the background layer each time and then touching that particulay layer up with Levels, Sharpen or Shadows/Highlights. But I noticed that depending on the order in which the layers were placed, some changes would be obscured. If I put the Levels layer on top, and then the Sharpen layer and the Shadows/Highlight layer below that, the sharpen effect and the shadows/highlights effects were no longer there. I could only see the levels effect. The photo was still not sharp and so on. If I put the Sharpen level on top, then the photo showed the sharpen effects, but now the Levels and Shadows/Highlights effects were no longer visible.
So then I started to make a copy of the background initially, do a levels adjustment here, then, instead of making a copy of the original background layer again, I would make a copy of the layer that now has the levels changes on it. Then do the sharpen effect on this layer. This way I had all the changes on one layer as long as I put that layer as the top layer. But then I realized that I once again fI didn't have a layer with only one fix on it. Finally, I started to use an adjustment layer for Levels, put this as the top layer, make a copy of the background layer, do shadows/highlights, copy background layer again, do sharpen, and this seems to work a little better. But even with this way, depending on what order I place the sharpen and shadows/Highlights layers, one of them still seems to get obscured by the layer above it.
Can someone help me to understand how layers work in this regard. I am obviously a little confused here.
Thanks,
Lee

You really aren't working efficiently. First of all, do your editing on a full sized version of the photo, since you have more data for PSE to work on and will get better results. Use save for web to make your web/email copy when you are totally done. You can resize it down on the right side of the save for web window.
Duplicating a regular layer makes an opaque layer that obscures the layers below it. It's best to start off by not working on your original image, so that you don't have to worry if you mess up. If you're working on a copy, you can work right on the background layer, or only duplicate the layer once and apply your changes to that. So you'd apply both shadows/highlights and sharpening to the same layer.
Finally, you should use an adjustment layer for levels. Layer>New Adjustment Layer>Levels. This will put levels on a transparent layer above your image, but you will need to click the layer below it to get back to a pixel layer to apply other changes (you can't sharpen an adjustment layer, for example).

Need a little h

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