Need advice before buying MBP please!!

Hi everyone, sorry this is AGAIN a "need help before buying" post.
I'm basically looking to buy a MBP for movie production : I will do data transfer (footage into USB3 to TB2 drives/USB3 drives).
And maybe some playback of very large 4K video files.
I was looking at a few options :
First of all I missed my chance and saw a rMBP 15inch 2.4ghz(ish) for 1900 (canadian) and didn't order it.
I've got my eyes on either another rMBP which is a 2.7 with Geforce 650M (june 2012) for 2400$ or a brand new one with maybe 2.5ghz for 2200$.
Your advices on these models? Is the Iris Pro GPU good enough? Is 2.2ghz enough for my tasks?
Thanks soooo much!!

Hi pbearr,
Welcome to the Apple Support Communities. I’m glad to hear that you are in the market for a new Mac! I wanted to chime in here and make a quick comment about 4K video support. Are you planning on purchasing an external 4K monitor? If so, keep in mind that a 2012 MacBook Pro with Retina Display does not support 4K video. To learn more, please check out this resource:
Using 4K displays and Ultra HD TVs with Mac computers - Apple Support
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT202856
You can use 4K displays and Ultra HD TVs with these Mac computers.
MacBook Pro (Retina, Late 2013 and later)
Mac Pro (Late 2013)
iMac (27-inch, Late 2013 and later)
Mac mini (Late 2014)
Every user, task, and configuration is different. I wish you all of the luck in determining which Mac is the best for you!
- Matt M.

Similar Messages

Advice before buying Macbook Pro and Final Cut Studio

Hey there
I'm looking for advice before I buy my first Mac.
Currently editing SD video using Windows PC, Quad core, and Sony Vegas Movie Studio.
Now I want to edit HD (from Canon5Dii) and plan a move to Macbook Pro & FCStudio.
What hardware configurations of MBP (with FCS) have folk out there got, and how well do they run?
Eg. Do I need the 8GB memory?
Any peripherals I MUST have
Thanks in advance
Aye
Message was edited by: sam4rufus

Any peripherals I MUST have
Fast, external hard drives for media storage. Don't use the internal system drive for this. Don't even consider using USB drives at all.
All MBPs limit you to FireWire 800 drives, which are OK for lower bandwidth video like HDV and AVCHD.
Although the 17" model also has an ExpressCard slot that can be used with an eSATA adapter to connect much faster drives that provide throughput that FireWire cannot achieve.

Need advice before I buy laptop for editing

I have edited mini DV on a 7 years old laptop with PE 3. Now it is time for me to buy a new laptop so I can edit footage from a Canon XA10.
And buy a new video editing program. PE 12 is one of my top candidates because PE 3 has worked fine for years.
I plan to record AVCHD, 24 Mbit/s, 8 bit, 4:2:0, true 1920*1080 for maximum quality. In PAL.
No, I have never edited HD.
Yes, I have tried to check what various software companies suggest.
My editing is normally very trivial, even though I make long movies (hundreds of hard cuts in the same film). But when I do something complicated, the result is just a few seconds long.
How powerful laptop do I need? I have the impression that the following is the minimum for editing both PE and the competitors, but please correct me if I have made some mistake.
Any Intel core i7 quad core CPU with at least 2.0 GHz
One single mechanical hard drive, 5400 or 7200 RPM (I mean SSD not necessary)
4 GByte RAM
Any graphics card with at least 1 GByte graphics memory
I have the impression that editing HD means that one hard drive is not enough because the laptop needs to handle so much data. But how many external hard drives do I need? I want to minimize cost.
And do I have to connect the external hard drives via USB 3, or is USB 2 enough?
And one more technical question. When I edit, I see the whole project on the laptop's screen. How do I do to see only the film? With mini DV, I connect a television receiver to a camcorder and the camcorder with firewire to the laptop. But I don't know how I am supposed to do when I edit HD. Is there anything I must take into account when I choose what laptop I buy?

I have continued to think about my problem.
The main problem is that when laptops are sold, they are not optimized for video editing because few people edit video on laptops. And far from all of those who sell laptops are familiar with video editing, so asking them to optimize a laptop may end in misunderstandment.
So I have thought about one possibility. Buy a "cheap" laptop with powerful processor and enough graphics memory. Then tell somebody who repairs laptops to replace part of the hardware with something more suitable for video editing.
But before I do that, I must know exactly what to replace.
So I have thought about some alternatives to upgrade a laptop as painlessly as possible.
1.
I have read a short description of SanDisk ReadyCache. This is 32 GByte SSD with software. Connect it to a computer and files which are used often can be accessed up to 4 times faster than on a hard drive. Sounds relevant for video editing, but I have no idea if it works in practice. I mean, reviews are favourable but I have no idea if the reviewers used it for video editing.
2.
Replacing a 5400 RPM hard drive would not cost me that much. My external hard drives are almost full so I need to buy new ones. I mean, I can tell somebody to replace a 5400 RPM hard drive with either SSD or a faster hard drive (7200 RPM). The 5400 RPM hard drive can I then use with firewire 3.0 as an external hard drive.
3.
Unless I have misunderstood something, one can make a computer more powerful by using an USB memory as some form of memory. How much would that help in video editing?
I think this is what Microsoft calls ReadyBost, but I have never used it so I don't know.
By the way, if I use an USB memory in this way, how large should it preferably be? And how fast?
Any more suggestions than those above? And what is the preferable solution?
And yes, I have thought about the possibility to use a Small Form Factor PC, but since they are rare I have problems finding anyone. If somebody knows about a suitable one, please tell.

Need Photoshop advice before buying a new computer

Hi Folks ....
My computer is 6 years old. I'm starting to get the "blue screen of death" periodically so I am buying a new computer.
I currently own Photoshop CS2.
Here are my options.
I can buy a new computer and make sure I have Windows 7 Ultimate so I can use CS2 on it (in XP mode).
Or I can buy a new computer without Windows 7 Ultimate and upgrade to CS5.
My real question is, when I buy a new computer, is it okay for it to have integrated graphics?
Will Photoshop run okay on ingrated graphics, or should a buy a machine that comes with a graphics card installed?
Any help will be appreciated.
Regards and many thanks,
Mark

That's ggod news that I can run CS2 on Windows 7.
Yes, it will be a desktop PC so I will make sure I configure my new PC with a graphics card.
Thank you.

Need advice - 1st Gen MBP or 2nd Gen MB?

I have been considering crossing over from a PC to an Apple for a long time and have finally made the decision to go for it this year. I do not know a lot about Apple computers so I am hoping to find some solid advice here. I was at CompUSA today and they have a MacBook Pro (MA600LL - 1st generation) on sale for $1299. From what I have researched online this evening it looks like it has the following: 15 inch display, 2.0 GHz CoreDuo processor, 512 MB Ram, 80 GB hard drive, a 4X Superdrive (no DL write capability), and ATI XL1600 w/ 128 MB RAM for video.
The MacBook (MA700LL/A - 2nd generation) that I was looking at is also $1299 and has the following: 13.3 inch display, 2.0 Ghz Core2Duo processor, 1 GB Ram, 80 GB hard drive, a 6X Superdrive (with DL write capability), and 64MB shared video RAM.
I do plan on installing XP on it to play a few of the games that I would like to carry over, but I don't plan on playing a lot of new/intense 3D games on it. I do plan on working with music (writing and recording) and video editing - both in a limited fashion at this time, but possibly more often if I like the software as much as I have been told that I will like it. I will use it for web editing, web browsing, online chatting, photos, e-mail, word processing, and other general things like that on a regular basis.
Could someone please give me some advice as to which model would be a better long term purchase? As I mentioned before I am not very familiar with Apple computers or the OS, however I am very familiar with PC's. Thanks in advance!

You need to answer a few questions:
1. Why a laptop? For the same $ you can get an iMac with better specs
2. Will you be doing anything video intensive? If so, then you won't do well with MB shared video RAM.
3. You will need to boost your RAM on MBP--how much will that add? The 1 GB on the MB should be adequate.
4. What outputs are available and how will you use them?
Personally, I opted for the MBP because I need the bigger screen to work and I wanted the Expresscard/34 slot. If you can live with the smaller screen, don't need a video card and don't need an expresscard/34 slot, then the MB may offer more for the future as it will work better with Leopard when it is released (for $129).
In either case, get Applecare--Don't get any support from the store. In my experience it is much less efficient than applecare.

Advice before buying an Airport device???

Hello,
I need to buy a new router because my current one is just too slow is dealing with the WiFi connection between my Mac, my iPhone and my AppleTV (the grey one).
I have been recommened the Netgear n900, but I was wondering if I should go for an Airport device.
They seem to have similar capabilities and I was hoping for some advice.
My AppleTV currently seems to be faster at downloading content purchased on it than on my Mac and movie rentals play perfectly - pausing and rewinding causes no problems.
However, syncing my AppleTV amd the iTunes library on my Mac is a very slow process and streaming a video from my computer to the TV is woeful - pausing and rewinding causes the stream to need to refresh and can take a few minutes to reload to the same point and even without pausing or rewinding the video will play through without stopping by itself.
Also, the WiFi syncing betweem iTunes and my iPhone is much slower than it is supposed to be.
I am hpoing to buy the newest AppleTV, so a dedicated WiFi channel for streaming video and Photostream would be ideal.
Am I right in saying that the Airports dual band means two WiFi "channels" - one band for regular internet use and another I can use for the sole purpose of my AppleTV?
Is the guest network seperate to these?
Would there be a way I could have a channel dedicated to WiFi syncing my iPhone?
Would the Express suit my purpose or would I need the Extreme?
Any help would be great.
Regards.

Am I right in saying that the Airports dual band means two WiFi "channels" - one band for regular internet use and another I can use for the sole purpose of my AppleTV?
Yes. The simultaneousl dual-band AirPorts broadcast two separate wireless networks; one on the 2.4 GHz band and the other on the 5 GHz band. By default, they both have the same Network Name or SSID, but you can rename each to be a different name.
Both band will provide Internet access, but you can dedicate a specific radio by using separate Network Names. One thing to take into consideration is that the 2.4 GHz radio will most likely have greater range. The 5 GHz radio is basically best for use in a single room. (Note: This is not specific to the Apple routers.)
Is the guest network seperate to these?
Yes ... but it shares the same bandwidth with each radio.
Would there be a way I could have a channel dedicated to WiFi syncing my iPhone?
No, not a channel per se, but yes to a band (2.4 or 5 GHz).
Would the Express suit my purpose or would I need the Extreme?
If data throughput is important, the Extreme would be the better choice as the Express is limited to 100 Mbps Ethernet.

YOGA 2 13 - Need Guidance before Buying.

Hello Guys,
I'm a student and about to buy Yoga 2 13 [NOT PRO].
This is the config available in the local market - i5 4210U|4GB|500GB*8GB SSHD
I have quite a few questions. Please be kind enough to answer few (if not all) of these.
1. I have read about the refereshed line of this same lappy. Is this the refereshed series ?
Anyway to verify it ?
2. Additionally, I'm planning to buy a ssd already after i read about the awesome empty M.2 Slot in this lappy. Which one should i go for ? Do the speeds of mSATA and M.2 SSD's differ ? Which is the fastest M.2 SSD available ?
3. Regarding the wifi card, is their sometype of problem in this particular card other than the fact that it does not support 5GHz band ? Is it faulty or has poor reception or anyother problem ? Is it really worth dropping the purchase?
4. After Moving the OS to SSD, how mch time does it take to boot up and load up the drivers ? Generally laptops with SSD's bootup in less than 7secs with everything loaded up and in ready to work mode. Does it work the same way after SSD has been installed or does it take time to fireup just like a normal laptop with HDD ?
5. I know the RAM is soldered, but can it be increased to 8GB if needed through lenovo Customer Center ?
6. I read in reviews that keyboard/trackpad is sluggish and lacks tactile response. Is it so ?
I would be obliged if you could please take of some spare time and help me decide whether to go ahead with the purchase or drop it.

insanekid wrote:
Hello Guys,
I'm a student and about to buy Yoga 2 13 [NOT PRO]. ----> Are you sure? The Y2 has crappy wifi and to find one with a 7260 AC card is hard. Unless you find one with a preinstalled AC card, you won't be able to manually upgrade do to a BIOS whitelist, which does not cover post-AC card installation(s). The Y2P can be bought in the States with a 7260 AC card and if anything, it can be upgraded post sales.
Wifi is an important part of a computer (in today's day and age) and frankly, Lenovo's computers HAVE A HARD TIME CONNECTING/STAYING CONNECTED TO THE INTERNET!!!!
This is the config available in the local market - i5 4210U|4GB|500GB*8GB SSHD ---> 4 gb RAM is TOO little. Chrome/FF/IE now-a-days take up like 1 gig a pop. The OS takes up 1 or 2 by default. Trust me, 8gb is the way to go.
I have quite a few questions. Please be kind enough to answer few (if not all) of these.
1. I have read about the refereshed line of this same lappy. Is this the refereshed series ?
Anyway to verify it ? The refreshed Y2 comes with a 7260 AC wifi card, not a 7260 N or Realtek N card, like the earlier Y2. However, note the Y3P has just been released.
2. Additionally, I'm planning to buy a ssd already after i read about the awesome empty M.2 Slot in this lappy. Which one should i go for ? Do the speeds of mSATA and M.2 SSD's differ ? Which is the fastest M.2 SSD available ? M.2 is better but also more expensive. I can't answer the 2nd one since I have never looked.
3. Regarding the wifi card, is their sometype of problem in this particular card other than the fact that it does not support 5GHz band ? Is it faulty or has poor reception or anyother problem ? Is it really worth dropping the purchase? I think the WiFi is a deal breaker. I use the Internet constantly. A laptop without stable Internet sucks. Imagine trying to download the same file over 10x, just to get 1 copy. Also, it gets frustrating really quick. However the 7260 AC card WITH the right driver (which may need to be installed as post-sales troubleshooting) will fix the WiFi problem. My signature below contains a link to the Y2P Fix and Tips thread. Use that thread to find a good WiFi driver for the 7260 AC card.
4. After Moving the OS to SSD, how mch time does it take to boot up and load up the drivers ? Generally laptops with SSD's bootup in less than 7secs with everything loaded up and in ready to work mode. Does it work the same way after SSD has been installed or does it take time to fireup just like a normal laptop with HDD ? My laptop came with a SSD, but my old Lenovo laptop sports an added (post-sale) SSD and its inital HDD. The SSD carries the Window's installation and works like a beauty. Then again, theoretically, this is the expected outcome.
5. I know the RAM is soldered, but can it be increased to 8GB if needed through lenovo Customer Center ? No, buy 8gb now. Else, you will regret it.
6. I read in reviews that keyboard/trackpad is sluggish and lacks tactile response. Is it so ? Don't know. I own the Y2P.
I would be obliged if you could please take of some spare time and help me decide whether to go ahead with the purchase or drop it.

I need advice on buying a new computer and monitor.

Without going into huge detail, I am ready to buy a new desktop for my photography hobby. I am still running
CS3 (hoping that will work with Windows 7?), Corel Paint Shop Pro X (yeah, I know I have really old software, but I
don't feel the need to upgrade just yet), Picasa, and all the software that comes with my Canon 40D. I take all my pics in
.raw and then edit/convert. I have a 1 terabyte eternal drive where I store my photos, but editing from that source is S-L-O-W.
Someone mentioned on another site something about aneSata drive. Need more info. (I want an easy way to backup my
photos monthly, because I have a fear of someone breaking in my home, stealing my pc and then all my photos are gone.
With the external drive, I can put it in my safe deposit box.)
I want a monitor (preferably not widescreen) that will be accurate with color and not have a glare, maybe 20" or so. I print photos at home on my HP Photosmart printer, but I also have some printed professionally. I would like recommendations on monitor calibration gadgets/software
so that what I see is very close to what will print.
This computer will have MSOffice 2010 on it. Will have quite a few other softwares on it that are currently on my old pc.
We don't watch movies on the PC or do any gaming so the video card will mainly be used for photography and some light video use. We do skype.
Would like to stay in the range of $1500-2000 if possible. I've basically purchased Dell's in the past due to the ease of designing my system,
but I have had two lemons and am certainly not tied to Dell.
I know I want a wireless mouse/keyboard. Currently have Dell Speakers 5/1, which are decent enough for my use, as long as I can connect them to my
new PC.
Thanks for good advice!! (And I want this PC to last me about 5 years so I would guess I need at least 8 g ram, 3.5 GHz processor, preferably Intel.
Also want 4 or more USB ports on the front or side, as my PC location is not suitable to use the back ports easily.) Thank you!

picture-me wrote:
Would like to stay in the range of $1500-2000 if possible.
I've taken quite a "non-standard" approach to this... a little while back I purchased a powerful Dell Precision T5400 workstation that's come off lease from eBay, then populated it with good hardware. Result? Dual quad core Xeon 3.16 GHz 16 GB system with 3 TB of internal RAID disk storage and a good modern video card for about $1500. This is a system that would have sold new for probably $6,000 just a few years ago.
I didn't have to buy any of the external stuff (monitor, backup drives, keyboard/mouse, etc.) because I upgraded from an existing workstation and was able to re-use all that stuff, plus one 1 TB drive from the old system - which I then sold for $700 to recoup some of the cost (total outlay was then only $800).
I describe the system and how I put it together in some detail here:
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/827500
This is a far more powerful system than anything I could get new for the same price.
Just a quick glance at eBay and I see that some T5500 workstations are becoming available for reasonable prices now. I see, for example, a dual quad system with 12 GB of RAM for a Buy It Now price of a hair over $1000.
-Noel

New to Mac...Need advice...MBP and My Book external drive

I'm new to Mac. Getting my MBP 2.4GHz/15" in tomorrow and this will be a migration from the Windows world to the Mac world for me. So I need some advice.
I received my My Book Pro 500GB external HDD in today and have a friend's MacBook running the current version of OS X to do any work I need to do to this HDD.
I'm going to have Windows XP Home available via Boot Camp and Parallels (depending on whether I need to run natively or not) in case that matters.
Here's what I have in terms of data:
- about 2GB of data files (Word, Excel, etc.)
- about 6GB worth of photo files
- about 85GB of home movies that are in .avi format at this time
I'm a little overwhelmed with all that I've been trying to digest regarding this move and just found out my laptop will be here tomorrow. I thought I had some extra time but that hasn't turned out to be the case.
What doesn't make sense to me right now is how to get my data over to my new machine, move what isn't critical to have on the laptop's HDD out to external, and how to figure out which file system I'll need on this external drive. My laptop will be partitioned with 30GB available to Windows and the other 130GB for Mac. Do I need to format this external drive with the Mac file system only? Or do I need to leave some space formatted FAT32 in case I need some overflow on the Windows side? Will the Windows environment be able to see any of the Journaled space on either the internal or external drive? I assume not.
I'm so confused right now, I can't even put anything down but these fragmented thoughts. Hopefully somebody knows where I'm at and can give me some advice.
Thanks-
John
MacBook Pro 2.4GHZ Mac OS X (10.4.10)

Start with Switching from Windows to Mac OS X and Basic Tutorials on using a Mac.
Since I don't have an ICBM (Intel-chip-based Mac), I can't help with the external HD stuff. However, you should be aware that file system formats and partition mapping schemes are two different things.
OS X requires the Mac OS Extended (HFS+) file system formatting—applies to both PPCs and ICBMs. Details on file system formats are in http://developer.apple.com/documentation/Performance/Conceptual/FileSystem/Artic les/MacOSXAndFiles.html
ICBMs the GUID Partition Table scheme. Details on partition mapping schemes are in http://developer.apple.com/documentation/MacOSX/Conceptual/universalbinary/universal_binary_tips/chapter_5_section10.html
Whether or not you can use both the Mac OS Extended and FAT-32 formats on separate volumes, I'll leave to the other experts.

I have finally "freaked out" like others. Itunes keeps asking me to reset the password that is accepted by all. I went to Safari Privacy and third parties and advertisers is already clicked. I need advice before the "ambulance" arrives. (joke)

I have the patience of Job. Patience doesn't help when I can't sign in to iTunes without having my authentic password rejected and
told I need to reset it. Since I have followed the advice from a community member to go to Privacy in Safari Browser and choose an
option other than Always. I have already clicked: Third Parties and Advertisers. This is because I am "allergic" to advertisers.
Please help me to resolve this issue. I need to log into itunes in order to make more efforts to delete music from my ipod.?
Many music selections are from a relative that had borrowed the ipod for the weekend. Many are in Japanese. I am thrilled
to be a community member. Thanks for listening

To attempt a new chat session...
For the link below click the Still Need Help? option in the blue area at the bottom and choose the chat option...
http://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/global/service1.html

Need advice about buying iMac

Hello,
I am buying a used iMac G5 from private party.
Do not have much money. Going to look at it. He does not
have restoration discs, but is including Leopard
disc. Seems like a good computer for 400.00
just wondering if I need restoration discs...what to look for.
Am a college student and need one for school.
Any help would be great. I am familiar with
Apple. Thank you

I wouldn't put your money into a PowerPC at this point. You can buy a refurbished Intel-based iMac, with standard 1 year Apple warranty, for $929 in the Apple store: http://store.apple.com/us/product/FC508LL/A or if you want a lower priced mac, a mac mini starts at $579 with the education discount. If you're limit is $400, at least buy an Intel-based mac, as that will serve you better for the next few years.
Unfortunately, PowerPC's have been left behind. Some programs like Flash no longer support PowerPCs, and some web sites require a current level of Flash to work (some ESPN programming comes to mind). I've also found that some online content requires Intel processors.
If you decide to buy the iMac G5 without the original distribution disks, you may want to call Apple to see if you can buy a set (they were about $60, however, Apple may no longer have them in stock) or plan to, at some point, buy TechTool Pro, which can do similar hardware testing as the Apple Hardware Test which is on the original distribution disks. You might be able to find a set on ebay, but make sure they are the gray-faced OS X disks for your model iMac G5. Those disks only work on the systems they are delivered with.
Personally, I wouldn't buy a used mac unless it came with a clean hardware report via the Apple Hardware extended test or via one of the TechTool products (Deluxe or Pro).

NEED ADVICE , WANNA BUY A HOUSE SOON!!!!

I SPOKE W/ A LENDER AND HE ADVISED I GET A SECURED CREDIT CARD. I CURRENTLY HAVE A SECURED LOAN W/ A LOCAL CREDIT UNION.BELOW IS A COPY OF MY CREDIT REPORT THAT WAS PULLED BY THE LENDER. THE ONLY DIFFERENCE IS MY CAR LOAN WAS PAID OFF ON JUNE 28...PLS ADVISEEQ-513TU-555EX-559I have 6 DEROGATORY ACCOUNTS1. PROFESSIONAL DEBT: DATE REPORTED 05/15 : DATE OPENED 11/10 : BALANCE $2854
ACCOUNT INFORMATION DISPUTED BY CONSUMER; ORIGINAL CREDITOR: MARQUIS APARTMENTS 2.MIDLAND FUNDING: DATE REPORTED 05/15 : DATE OPENED 04/11 :BALANCE $1471 ACCOUNT INFORMATION DISPUTED BY CONSUMER; FACTORING COMPANY; ORIGINAL CREDITOR: CHASE BANK USA N.A.3.ENHANCED RECOVERY: DATE REPORTED 04/15 : DATE OPENED 08/14 : BALANCE $853 ACCOUNT INFORMATION DISPUTED BY CONSUMER; ORIGINAL CREDITOR: SPRINT4.PROFESSIONAL DEBT: DATE REPORTED 05/15 DATE OPENED:11/10 :BALANCE $500ACCOUNT INFORMATION DISPUTED BY CONSUMER; ORIGINAL CREDITOR: SURE DEPOSITMARQUIS5.FIRST PREMIER BANK: DATE REPORTED 03/15: DATE OPENED 12/13 :BALANCE $496 6.CHASE CARD: DATE REPORTED 09/13: DATE OPENED 11/08 ACCOUNT TRANSFERRED OR SOLD; CHARGED OFF ACCOUNT

The newly acquired secured CC will help you rebuild your credit if you pay on time, etc.You did not state how much cash or income you have, assuming it is not enough to pay cash for a home, and you need to borrow, you must get your FICO scores up to at least 640, and then at that time, reconsider buying a home through a home loan. You are in no financial condition to get approved for a loan right now, any loan, let alone a mortgage in the 6 figuures. You work on cleaning up your credit report to raise FICO scores is the first order of business, clean up derogatories, etc.

Need advice on buying a new laptop

My only specifications are I'd like a HP, light weight, not a netbook, mostly for internet use. I will use it a little with Word, Excel and Publisher for projects here and there. I'd like to stay under $700. If I can stay in the under $600 range then I'd more than likely get the extended warranty.
Also, would it be better to get directly from HP?
Any advice is appreciated!
TIA,
AnGee

It looks like IBM owned part of it in 2005.
IBM became the owner of 18.9% of Lenovo in 2005 as part of Lenovo's acquisition of the IBM personal computing division.[12] Since then IBM has steadily lowered its shareholding in Lenovo. In July 2008 the IBM shareholding went below the 5% reporting disclosure threshold.[13] In February 2009 the CEO Bill Amelio was replaced with Yang Yuanqing.[14]
Didn't Acer buy gateway and e-machine some years ago?
**If you like my answer then click the little Star under my username.
**If my response answered your question then click the Solved button. Thanks

Need advice on new MBP for College

Hey everyone, I am currently a Senior in High School and will be attending UMass Amherst in the fall and will most likely be studying Computer Science there. I have narrowed my search down to either the 13 inch 2.9ghz MBP or the 15 inch 2.3ghz.
Now with the 13 inch, I wouldn't be upgrading anything as I don't believe spending $270+ on a SSD is worth it. But if i get the 15 inch, i would upgrade the RAM from 4gb to 8gb and I'm thinking about adding the Antiglare screen. However, which would be easier on the eyes for starring a computer screen for hours programming, the 13 inch or the 15 inch? I know the 15 inch supports a couple more screen resolutions than the 13 inch but is it worth the extra money?
Also, which would be more portable to take to places like the library and to classes? I know its about a 1 pound difference but which is actually easier to lug around everyday?
Thanks for the help everyone.

If you are looking at the standard mac notebooks, not a retina model, then don't upgrade anything from apple. Just buy the base system that apple offers and you can do the ram and hard drive upgrade yourself for much less money then what apple charges for those same upgrades. Doing those upgrades yourself will not void your warranty. In fact the aftermarket ram and hard drive will come with a longer warranty than apple supplies.
I also suggest you buy the applecare warranty because to fix any mac computer once the standard warranty runs out can be costly. The applecare extended warranty will give you 2 more years of hardware warranty, making it a full 3 years of warranty, along with increasing the free phone tech support from 90 day to 3 years.

Need advice on buying a Qosmio G20-126

Hi everybody,
I was just passing by a local electronics shop in a mall when I found a Toshiba Qosmio G20-126 on sell for $ 1361.47. And those are the specifications for the laptop:
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Ram: 2 x 512 MB DDR II SDRAM - 533 MHz
Storage: 2X Hard Drive: 100 GB - Serial ATA-150 - 5400 rpm
CD-ROM: DVD±RW (+R double layer) / DVD-RAM
Card Reader Type: 5 in 1 card reader, Blue Tooth, IR, Remote Control
Display Screen: 17" TFT active matrix, Max Resolution: 1440 x 900 ( WXGA+), Colour support: 24-bit (16.7 million colours), TruBrite
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I have a LG-P1 laptop and That??s is specifications:
Processor: Intel Core Duo L2400 1.83 GHz ( Dual-Core ), 2MB Cache Memory
Ram: 512 MB DDR II SDRAM - 667 MHz - PC2-5300
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CD-ROM: Double Layer DVD-Writer
Display Screen: 15.4" TFT active matrix 1280 x 800 ( WXGA )
Card Reader 5 in 1, Bluesoul, A Fingerprint Reader, 5.1 CH sound, SRS sound.
Video Card: ATI Mobility Radeon X1400 (256 MB)
Now, the sell??s man told me that all the parts in the G20 are dedicated and exactly similar to desktop parts. Meaning, that I can upgrade the laptop normally as if I am upgrading a Desktop (Processor, Sound Card, Video Card, Ram). Is that True? And If so, Can I Replace my CD-ROM with a H-DVD one as well? Finally Do you recommend me to buy the G20 or stick with my P1 and why?
Please help, I waiting for your replays.
Regards,

Oh man, wasnt I clear enough? Its a little bit annoying, two people already told you:
You cannot upgrade ANYTHING on that machine. NOTHING!
You can just put more RAM into it. But thats the end of line. No VGA, no CPU etc...
And if the vga card is REALLY dedicated, then where would you try to get another if no one excepting toshiba provides just 1 model of that vga especially for that machine.
You have to dig it that a notebook is ABSOLUTELY NO DESKTOP and is NOT UPGRADEBLE.
That means no replacing of parts like in a desktop.
Sorry for my rough words, but I thought it was clear and I am not writing in chinese. :)
Greets

Need advice before buying MBP please!!

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