Need Advice in Purchasing my first Apple

I will be purchasing an IMac this weekend, but am still a bit unsure on which one to go with. This will be my first apple computer and I've spent a good part of this month researching on which type would best suit my needs. It comes down to the 20" IMac or the 24" IMac. I would be upgrading either one to the 500 Gig hard drive, adding the apple care plan, and purchasing a 4 GB's worth of RAM from crucial.com (far cheaper than what apple sells it for). If I went with the 24", I would probably choose the lower end of the two, but upgrade to the 2.8. I will primarily be doing screenwriting, light gaming, and heavy use with programs like Final Cut Pro and Photoshop. But these forums have made me very wary of the 24" with all the problems people seem to be having with driver issues, color distortion, pixel issues, and etc..? I have not seen many of those issues in these forums with the 20" model. Both computers seem to contain nearly the same processing power, and I am wary of the 500 dollar price difference amongst the two, if the more expensive one is going to be a huge headache. What should I do?

One of the lovely aspects before buying a new computer is deliberating the configuration that suits your needs best. I have a MacBook Pro myself and for my job I can use the new iMac 24" 2.8 4GB 1TB HD. It is a dream machine. We buy an Apple care protection with every new mac machine that the company buys and although we never had to make use of it just the reassurance "in case" is worth the investment. Reading your post you are about to spent some big bucks this weekend and whilst you're at it I would advise you to go all the way with it. What I mean is when you want the extra RAM, go for the Apple sets. When something goes wrong, and one of the problems you mention should happen, are more likely to get fixed quickly cause the knowledge is available and stand-by regarding Apple hardware. Third party hardware has it's own architecture that needs specific knowledge and insight allowing a swift and effective repair / trouble shooting solution. So whenever a problem occurs your return on investment may be much more worthwhile with regards to the money you saved on the purchasing of your machine and it's configuration.
The 20" is fine for FCP and other graphical programs, the 24" is "really neat".
Apple does some pretty good factory "pimping" whenever required

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I have an iPad 4 generation and just purchased my first apple cell phone. I am having problems figuring out how to sync the 2. I called Verizon and because my iPad isn't using the 4G it can (I just haven't needed to use it) the tech person can't do it.

I have an iPad 4 generation 4G and just purchased my first iPhone an Apple 5s. I need help synching the two. I have never needed to use the 4G Verizon option so Versizon tech said they can't do it and Apple needs to. But I no longer have Applecare and it doesn't yet recogniz my Applecare with my new phone (new yesterday). Anyone know the steps so I can sync the two and sync the Clouds then? Thanks

You cannot sync the two devices together. You can keep the two devices in sync by using iCloud and some of the available settings on both devices. Go to Settings>iCloud and you can turn on Reminders , Calendars, Notes, Safari Bookmarks, Contacts, Photo Stream, Mail, Keychain, etc.
You can go to Settings>iTunes and App Store>Automatic Downloads and turn on apps, songs, books and updates to keep all of those items in sync as well.
But why don't you explain exactly what you mean by syncing the two devices? What do you hope to accomplish?

I need advice on purchasing a Macbook Pro

Hello!
I am seeking advice on purchasing my very first Mac (and notebook) very soon. I am a Graphic Design student and I'll primarily be using it for running the Adobe CS programs (photoshop, indesign etc). I don't really plan to do any gaming or major video rendering. Money is an issue here and I'll have to purchase the adobe software as well. I am looking at three options here:
13 inch Macbook Pro 2011 (2.3 GHz i5, $1,099)
15 inch Macbook Pro 2010 (Refurbished 2.4 GHz i5 $1,269)
15 inch Macbook Pro 2011 (Refurbished 2.0 GHz i7 $1,529)
The main concerns with the 13 inch MBP are the display size/resolution and the Integrated Graphics. Although I have a 22 inch external monitor at home, I am hoping the MBP's screen won't be an issue when I'm on campus or if I get a job. As for the Graphics, will it be sufficient enough for Motion Graphic programs such as Adobe After Effects or Apple Motion 5? If they aren't a problem, then I'll be leaning towards the 13 inch since I would also qualify for the $100 back to school promotion. As for the 15 inches, are the refurbished models the way to go? I'm a bit worried about purchasing a used MBP that's probably been used for around a year. If the 13 inch's screen size isn't sufficient and there are little to no problems with refurbs, then I might go with the 15 inch 2.4 GHz i5. Thanks for your time and input.

Elgato EyeTV registers the following issues on: http://snowleopard.wikidot.com/start
EyeTV Lite 1.3.2 (5247)
None.
EyeTV 2.5.3 (3313) Remote control problems. Using the play/pause and menu buttons when using EyeTV trigger Front Row and iTunes at the same time.
EyeTV 3.1.2 (5237) Some users are experiencing digital audio problems; refer to this page to get a beta preview of version 3.1.3
http://www.macintouch.com/specialreports/snowleopard/slcompat.html
says version 3.2 is already available and fully compatible. It would sound that the Wiki hasn't been updated to include those experienced with 3.2. Maybe you want to submit a wiki update when you get an Intel Mac. To confirm, Macintouch is not a typo:
http://www.elgato.com/elgato/na/mainmenu/support.en.html#Snow%20Leopard
It says version 3.2 is fully compatible. Version 3.1.3 which was a beta also mentioned on Macintouch is earlier than version 3.2. That's how they go about doing versions in the software world. So barring some unforseen bug, you should be good to go with EyeTV. Use both websites listed above to determine software compatibility. Sometimes one may be more current than the other. Apple has also made a current list of compatible printers and scanners here:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3669
Regardless of the compatibility, upgrading you should always make a couple backups ahead of time, in case of hidden issues with your machine. See my FAQ* on upgrading:
http://www.macmaps.com/upgradefaq.html
If you find you need a Leopard 10.5 compatible Intel Mac for your other software, purchase a used or refurbished Mac that was made prior to August 28, 2009 with the guidelines on my FAQ*:
http://www.macmaps.com/usedrefurbished.html
- * Links to my pages may give me compensation.
Message was edited by: a brody

I need advice after purchasing a MacBook Pro in the USA for use in the UK.

Hello all out there,
I bought a 13 inch MacBook Pro in the USA last week and brought it back with me to the UK. I had been given an Apple World Adapter kit by the gentleman in the apple store, however I realised today that it isn't for the MacBook Pro and is only for iPads, iphones and ipods. This means that despite paying around $40, I am stuck. I need advice as to how to charge the laptop in the UK now? Is there an adapter for this or can I use any ordinary USA to UK adapter and stick it to the one I have from the USA?
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Zainab

AFAIK, the World Adapter kit has a replacement PLUG for the power brick. What you need is just something that can go into your country's wall socket, as the power brick itself is universal and can work from 100-240 VAC, 50-60 Hz.
In other words, you ARE aware that the power brick has removable plugs on the AC end, right?

I have just purchased my first Apple computer, a MacBook Pro, running Lion (10.7.4). My wife bought her MacBook Pro six months ago. I had data from my old PC transferred to my new MacBook, but, for some reason, my superuser ID comes up as my wife.

I have just purchased a MacBook Pro. My wife's MacBook Pro is less than a year old. When I start up my new computer, it thinks I am my wife and gives me the option of logging on as my wife or as a guest user. How do I correct this misidentification? Thanks. [email protected]

This sounds like you may have migrated in Setup Assistant from her MBP?
EDIT: (Or whatever you migrated from the PC had her account data)
I also think you mean your login ID, not the Superuser, unless you've enabled root. In that case it would say "root"
Let's try it easy first. Create a new account and make it an Admin. Name it your name or whatever. This will be your account. Next login as your wife and move ehatever Documents you want from that account into /Users/Shared.
Now log back into your own account and drag the items from the Shared folder into your Documents folder.
If this works and you no longer need your wife's account on the Mac you can delete it in System Preferences > Users&Groups.

Need advice about H.264 and Apple ProRes 422.

When exporting a "master file" I can encode the video as H.264 or Apple ProRes 422 (etc). The H.264 is more compressed but still in 1080p? Does this mean that I do not have to compress the file with "Compressor"? What is the advantage of using ProRes and what is the advantage of using H.264? I want of course the files to be as small as possible but still at the best quality. Any advice?
Thanks.

ProRes is an editing format. If you are archiving a finished project, you can create an extremely high quality "print" with H.264. ProRes 422 will use approximately three times as much memory. ProRes 422(HQ) roughly four times and ProRes 4444 up to 10 times (compared to the size of the file FCPX will export as H.264).
FCPX exports (shares) H.264 in highest quality (over 45Mbits/sec [if needed] for 1080p), you have no options to adjust for smaller files (or lesser quality from FCPX.)
To get "as small as possible," you'll need to learn more about compressing video. As a comparison (to FCPX), YouTube limits a maximum bandwidth of 8Mbps (used to be 5Mbps -- I *still* compress to 5Mbps before uploading.) Even compressed this highly, H.264 provides excellent results. [Compressing in ProRes is going from 4444 down to 422 Proxy (not to be confused with proxy media used in FCPX which is 1/4 resolution, i.e. 960x540 for 1080, ProRes 422.) You cannot compress each of the different ProRes flavors individually.]
You'll need other software to compress further than FCPX. I use Quicktime 7 Pro. Compressor is another way to go (Compressor will let you set "compression markers" so you can vary the bitrates through various sections of your work). The way to figure out your compression level is to find a section (less than a minute) with the highest motion high contrast (and/or changing gradients) and export at different bitrates. Watch for "jpeg artifacts" (blocking) and once you've gotten past that, that's the bitrate you should compress to. (I've had some clips that required at least 20Mbps.) It just takes a little practice to get a feel for it.

Needs advice in purchasing a mbp

I'm looking into buying a MBP 13'; this will be my first mac purchase. I'm a college student just looking for portability and performance. I won't be doing anything crazy like making movies or doing any hardcore photoshopping other than on occasion. I really have no clue which to choose, from the i5 or i7 or in choosing which ram or hard drive. From everything that I've read up on, the ideal choice would of course be choosing the i7 and choosing 8gb of ram and the 512gb ssd. But that would be burning holes in my pockets for this college student. Is there really a big difference between 4g and 8gb of ram? What about serial ata drive and ssd? Would it be better to purchase the 4gb and a standard hard drive it comes with and upgrading those later by myself?

Get the standard i5 model. That will be fine. Upgrade it to 8 GB of RAM yourself for $ 60. You will need a small screwdriver and 5 minutes of your time.

Need advice on purchasing an external hard drive for video editing

Hi,
I looking for advice on which external hard drive to get. The main purpose for the hard drive will be storing video files on for use with Final Cut Pro. I have the 12 inch powerbook G4 so I plan to use the FireWire (400) port to connect the drive. I'm interested in getting comment from others who use their external hard drives for video editing.
Thanks!

Firstly your decision to use FireWire is a good one, as not only will it free up the USB it performs much better on sustained transfers.
That said you're still limited by the FireWire interface, so opt for a drive with a big cache (16MB would be good) and fast spindle speed (7200rpm+).
Some of the newer enclosures are compatible with SATA drives. While these are easier to install and theoretically will perform better, I'm not sure that the performance would justify the extra cost.
Matt

Need advice about purchasing a dryer

Our dryer went out and we need some information about buying a new dryer. What's this hoopla about dryers not coming with a power cord? We don't need a venting kit as our old dryer still has a perfectly good venting system, but I find it strange that dryers cost so much money and then they want you to pay a ridiculous amount for the cord and then want to charge you to have someone install the cord for it. Gee I wish I was an electrician at this point as I could do it myself but don't want to ruin a new item I would purchase. I can't spend no more then $400 total on this.
*******DISCLAIMER********
I am not an employee of BBY in any shape or form. All information presented in my replies or postings is my own opinion. It is up to you , the end user to determine the ultimate validity of any information presented on these forums.

Hey there hockey-
I’m by no means an appliance expert, but my understanding is that for safety, all dryers require a three plug power cord to make sure it’s adequately grounded. In addition, building codes require that venting kits be upgraded or we won’t install the unit.
I’d recommend talking to our appliance experts at your local Best Buy when you get an opportunity as they can better explain these details as well as find you the exact dryer you’re looking for!
Thanks!
Bill|Senior Social Media Specialist | Best Buy® Corporate
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Need Advice on Purchasing RoboHelp

I'm considering purchasing RoboHelp, but I've also looked at
some less expensive alternatives like RoboAuthor. My main purpose
for this application would be to convert previously printed
technical manuals to an online format. Can anyone offer some
advise?

Hi pdecker. A lot depends on what you want to do with the
help. RoboHelp has a lot of functionality that is not available in
RoboAuthor. When you convert do you just want a plain old HTML or
do you want to use DHTML / Javascript? Do you just want an easy
single source file low in richness or do you want a series of files
that you can manipulate more or less any way you want. Maybe you
don't have the answers? Download a trial version and have a play
which will help you decide and post any questions you have here.
One word of advice though. Don't just think of what you want to do
now. Also think of what you'd like to do in the future otherwise
you may buy a tool that is fit for purpose in the short term
only.

Need advice on purchasing an external hard drive

Greetings, oh wise Apple users. It has been suggested that I purchase an external hard drive to store my iDVD projects on. Can anyone give me a checklist of what to look for? My Mac is a G4 flat panel with 800 MHz and 512 MB. I'm currently using OS X (10.2.8) but am upgrading to 10.4 soon. Many thanks in advance for your help.

Firewire and an 'Oxford' chipset are a must for Macs with USB1.1 like yours. Here's some examples:http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/firewire/
Personally I'd go for one with a built in USB and Firewire hub as I'm always running out of ports (like the mini stack V2).
If you think an new Intel iMac or MacBook Pro could feature in your computer line up in the next year so, go for one with FW800.
mrtotes

Urgently needed advice on purchasing an iPhone 4

Hi, shortly I will be going to the Middle East for a while and planning to buy an iPhone 4, please can you confirm I will still be able to use this product when I return to the UK (return date currently unknown).
Can you also confirm I will be able to change the device language to English, without any part of it staying in a foreign language?
Thank you in advance; I look forward to hearing from you.

This should tell you where the iphone is sold unlocked:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1937
You would need to buy an iphone that is officially unlocked in order for it to work in the U.K. when you return.
Also if you buy outside of the U.K. your warranty will not be good in the U.K.

HT2534 I've just downloaded free apps after purchasing my first apple product (ipod touch). But none of the apps will open

I've just downloaded 13 free apps to my ipod touch. (I'm new to apple products, and never done this before). When I tap on the app icon, nothing happens - none of them open. Can anyone help me to figure this out? I must have done something wrong when setting the device up?

Try here:
iOS: Troubleshooting applications purchased from the App Store

I just got my first Apple product (ipod touch) and am needing to know how to transfer music from another itunes list. Can music that is currently on another ipod and/or computer be transferred to my new touch and my new itunes account? Thank you!

Recently purchased my first Apple product (ipod touch) and am needing to know how to transfer music from other ipods and other itunes accounts. Can this be done? I have plugged in another ipod into my new itunes account and it will not let me transfer the music that it contains into my new account. Any/all help is much appreciated. Thank you!

I have no music in my itunes account yet. I am trying to transfer music from friends' accounts and their ipods/playlists.

I just purchased MBP and it is my first Apple computer. How concerned should I be about virus software and what do you recommend for security software?

I just purchased MBP and it is my first Apple computer. How concerned should I be about virus software and what do you recommend for security software?

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets (see below.)
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been another layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't actually been tested by Apple (unless it comes from the Mac App Store), but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. For most practical purposes, applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed can be considered safe.
Gatekeeper has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could find some other way to evade Apple's controls.
For more information about Gatekeeper, see this Apple Support article.
4. Beyond XProtect and Gatekeeper, there’s no benefit, in most cases, from any other automated protection against malware. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. All known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source. How do you know whether a source is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
5. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was never a good idea, and Java's developers have had a lot of trouble implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style "virus" affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful. Fortunately, Java on the Web is mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers. In Safari, this is done by unchecking the box marked Enable Java in the Security tab of the preferences dialog.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a specific task, enable Java only when needed for the task and disable it immediately when done. Close all other browser windows and tabs, and don't visit any other sites while Java is active. Never enable Java on a public web page that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, password-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow these guidelines, and you’ll be practically as safe from malware as you can be.
6. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use the free software ClamXav — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
7. ClamXav doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
ClamXav is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
ClamXav may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use ClamXav unless a network administrator requires you to run an anti-virus application.
8. The greatest harm done by anti-virus software, in my opinion, is in its effect on human behavior. It does little or nothing to protect people from emerging threats, but they get a false sense of security from it, and then they may behave in ways that expose them to higher risk. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.

Need Advice in Purchasing my first Apple

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