Need advice on a purchase

I've found someone selling a mid 2012 MacBook Pro, but I'm confused with all the jargon! He's said its a used Apple MacBook Pro 13 inch Mid 2012 up for grabs! Has been used for Music production, Live performance and gaming. Will come with thunderbolt adaptors for connecting monitors. The super drive has been replaced with a Hybrid SSHD (750GB) so the total hard drive space is 1.5TB and performs like a SSD. Comes with original boxing, power cable and shell case. Also comes with applecare until October 2015 but this maybe invalid due to the upgrade. Remember, Super Drive Is Not There!
Is this good? And what does the superdrive missing mean/do? Also, is this a retina?
Thankyou all for any help haha

1000 pounds, thats what.....$1600 US.
shop elsewhere, bad price
I could make a new one configured the same for LESS
Get a base model Retina NEW for less, ...much less. Forget about that specific machine.

Similar Messages

Need Advice WRT iPod Purchase - Which Model?

I've never considered buying an iPod before, but I've been making a lot of business trips by car in the past couple of years, so having music to play all long the way would be A Good Thing. But, which model to buy???
I don't think I'll have the need to play videos, but I like the idea of having an info screen. I'm not sure the Shuffle is for me, because I'd like to have more control over what's playing and what to play next. But I can't imagine having more than 6 or 10 albums stored at any given time. My tastes in music just aren't that broad.
However, I have thought about the option an 80GB iPod would give me. That is, I could copy all of the installer disc images for all of the Final Cut Studio discs and the latest updates to the OS and support apps. Then when I'm on a Final Cut system support call, I'd have all the files I'd need in a very small package, rather than a large firewire drive.
So, advice anyone? Thanks.

Thank you. Yes, I'm familiar with that type of FW drive. That would be buying two new devices. Not out of the question, but if I could get by with one, it would be a bonus.
The iPod nano, huh? I assume the display on those will help me see what's playing and what song I can choose to play next, right?

Need advice on iMac purchase

Hello all,
Here I am, still sitting on my Late 2006 iMac that has ran flawlessly since I got it. I'm updated to 10.7, but as you all know that's as far as I'm going with the OS on this machine. I was going to pick up a new Mac earlier this year, but decided that I had better wait until the new ones were announced in October. Since the October release announcement and going back and forth, I've decided that the removal of the optical drive from the new units, at least for now, has steered me away from them. I'd also like to see how the super-thin design pans out in the long run. I'm not entirely confident in knowing that much hardware is seated so closely to the screen - seems like a bad idea. But, I'm not an engineer and the folks at Apple usually tend to be a little smarter than me at these things, so time will tell I suppose.
I've considered purchasing the Mid-2011 27" model from the refurbished end, but I've been reading some concerns about them. Yellowing screens, screens mysteriously going blank and some sort of dust collecting anomaly. Am I missing anything commonly complained about on these?? I think this computer is a better fit for me, but I'm curious to hear about others' experiences with refurbished products from Apple. They offer the same warranty as a new machine, but I'm guessing that many of these refurbished units are going to be returns from the before-mentioned issues. I'm wondering if they may have them panned out. I suppose there isn't much that can be done about dust collecting behind the screen, but the yellowing and screen going blank should be fixable issues without re-engineering (it would seem).
As you can likely tell from my 2006 iMac still being in use, I don't have a huge demand for resources, but I like to be up to date. Some light video compiling (family stuff), somewhat more intensive photography (Photoshop) and regular e-mail and web are basically the extent of my uses. Some gaming might occur on occassion, but I usually stick to my consoles for that.
Considering my concerns and uses, would the refurb May 2011 27" be a good move for me? Or shall I perhaps consider a Mac Mini with an external display instead? Mac Pro would be nice, but I'm not dropping that kind of cash for a computer at this time. I like the small footprint of the iMac. I can make do with a Mini. Hadn't considered it before now. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. I just like to run these types of questions by the community before I make a purchase. Points are usually raised that I hadn't previously considered.

The iMac is a very good all-purpose machine, and I purchase just about all of my Macs refurbushed. The reliability is at least as good as a new machine, with the same warranty.
About "yellowing screen." This is a relatively rare situation, and should be immediately detectable. Your only option would be to return the unit as defective; the replacement would, hopefully, remedy the problem. Reject any unit that doesn't look outstanding.
I also believe that it's best to wait a year until the super-thin iMacs roll out the kinks, but I'm not as bullish about using a Mini with an external monitor. A regular iMac will likely have a more balanced mix of features, which will be ideal with your modest needs. A refurb 2011 iMac is a good machine that's easy to like.
Honestly, I'm not familiar with the dust issue.

I need advice after purchasing a MacBook Pro in the USA for use in the UK.

Hello all out there,
I bought a 13 inch MacBook Pro in the USA last week and brought it back with me to the UK. I had been given an Apple World Adapter kit by the gentleman in the apple store, however I realised today that it isn't for the MacBook Pro and is only for iPads, iphones and ipods. This means that despite paying around $40, I am stuck. I need advice as to how to charge the laptop in the UK now? Is there an adapter for this or can I use any ordinary USA to UK adapter and stick it to the one I have from the USA?
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Zainab

AFAIK, the World Adapter kit has a replacement PLUG for the power brick. What you need is just something that can go into your country's wall socket, as the power brick itself is universal and can work from 100-240 VAC, 50-60 Hz.
In other words, you ARE aware that the power brick has removable plugs on the AC end, right?

Need advice on video software.

Need advice on video software.
I currently use adobe elements 3 and have done so for a few years now with no problems. my os is XP and my system is a couple of years old, but we do have a brand new win7 machine in the house.
I am currently look at Cyberlink PowerDirector 8 Ultra OR Adobe Premiere Elements 8. Reviews for both softwares seem very good BUT, when I dig deeper into user reviews instead of editor reviews do I find problems.
Major problems with program crashing all over the place, at start up etc, and it is still not getting along with any win7 machine? Major problems with drivers. Honestly, I do not want to have to jump through dozens of hoops to get any software to run. After I pay for it, it should run, period.
Has anyone else here used both softwares and can you give an honest opinion of each?
I am also asking these same questions on the cyberlink site.
I would like to upgrade my video software to take advantage of the new features that are coming out but I really don't want a big headache trying to run one or the other. To be fair, when I bought adobe elements 3 I had also bought pinnacle, which has gathered dust since my first week with it, which is why elements was purchased. That was money wasted and I do not wish to repeat this. I would like to go with Premiere Elements 8 but remain very unsure.

If your newer machine is Win7 64-bit, it might be worth waiting for SP-1 to be issued, and then hope that 64-bit drivers are fully included. The 64-bit drivers now seem t be an issue at this point, and that will affect any NLE program.
Also, and regardless of which particular program you choose, optimizing your computer, the OS, the hardware, and the resources management, will go a very long way to insuring success. Few programs can tax a computer, as an NLE can - any NLE. Video and Audio editing will stress your system, like almost nothing else can, except for heavy-duty CAD, or 3D work, though those are usually done only on specialized, optimized computers, designed just for those applications.
Not the specific advice that you seek, but it's the best that I can do.
Good luck,
Hunt

Major Issues with installing 4tb internal. Really need advice please

In the process of a long needed upgrade to my 2010 Mac Pro Quad core 2.8 and have run into a serious headache that I really need advice on so I can get back to work. I've already spent 2 days dealing with all of this...
Just did a new SSD install and Migration which went fine but I'm also updating the rest of the internal drives. My main (non boot) drive was being upgraded from a Seagate Barracuda 3tb to a 4th Deskstar NAS (it was showing as compatible with my desktop, see links below). My 3tb ran fine for years but now due to it being heavily used I want to switch to a new drive and I can also use a bit more space.
The issue I'm running into is that initially on boot, my system was telling me it couldn't recognize the disk and it wasn't even showing up in Disk Utility. I had to purchase a SATA USB 3 kit to attach it as an external to get it to show which worked without problem. With the USB kit I was then able to partition it (GUID, Mac OS extended journaled) and format it properly. After reinserting the drive into my tower as an internal it failed to show again. After a few attempts of restarts and trying various bays it popped up but showed as a non formatted drive and I was told again that the system didn't recognise it. I was then given the option to initialise and was then actually able to then format and partition it though Disk Utility while it was installed as an internal.
Figured that was problem solved but when I went to check the drive and getting ready to transfer files over I noticed that Disk Utility was only allowing the First Aid and Partition options but not Erase, RAID, Restore which I'd never seen before. I then also noticed that none of the drive connection info was in the same format nor will it even provide drive bay info, connection info or read/write status (See screen shots). This is what I can't figure out and really need to clarify before I put full trust into using this drive.
Any info would be greatly appreciated...
Deskstar 4tb internal info which is installed in Bay 2
3tb Seagate which I trying to retire and transfer from.
Here are the weblinks to the Deskstar 4tb drive and the compatibility list but I support isn't allowing me to add direct links so add the www. before hand.
(Drive - eshop.macsales.com/item/HGST/0S03664/) (compatibility list - eshop.macsales.com/Descriptions/specs/Framework.cfm?page=macpromid2010.html).

What OSX version?
Disk Utility in later versions of ML and I think Mavericks have problems formatting with 4 TB internal drives.
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1661024
http://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/112266/why-doesnt-my-mac-pro-see-my-new -4tb-sata-drive

Syncing iPod to new user account-need advice

Hey All! I set up a new user account for my friend on my imac, so he will want to sync his iPod Touch to iTunes, iPhoto, iCal, etc. in his new user account. I know there are plenty of freeware and shareware apps to get his music from the iPod into iTunes, but need advice concerning everything else oh his iPod.
I know I'll first get that pop up window that says his iPod is synced to another computer, and that I use "cancel" rather than "sync and erase". After doing that, I guess I use one of the shareware apps to get the music transferred over.
Now, after that, if I do a regular sync, will iTunes transfer his apps that are on the iPod?
Do I need to open iPhoto and download the photos on his iPod into iPhotot before doing a sync?
What about text messages? Will they remain in tact?
I don't think he uses the calendar on his iPod so no worries there....
What about Playlists that he has on the iPod? Will just the music transfer with the shareware apps or playlists also?
Will Notes be saved?
Thanks for your help. Don't wanna screw up his iPod by setting up this user account for him.

Apps are tied to the ID I assume the new account is just on the iMac and not a new iTunes account?
Yes, you can import photos into iPhoto the same as you would off any camera.
You would need to transfer purchased content (like apps). You can't do that via sync as it's a new computer and all content will be erased as you are aware.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1848
What happened to your friends computer? Was there no backup?

Ready to take it one higher ...need advice on best way to get more audio in

Nearly ready to upgrade to LP7...need advice on more gear.
Longtime Logic user, my old rig running with an Audiowerk 8 card (dont laugh too hard please, its worked great for years! ).
Now, after purchasing a MBP and LE7 ... how best to upgrade even further, to be able to record say 4-8 tracks (live instrument) at a time, into the optical or Firewire ports. I have an external 750Gb FW drive.
Also have a Mackie 16 chnl mixer and hoping to find a way to send the Master stereo pair (or maybe even track inserts) from the Mackie to the optical or FW input of my MBP. But how to do this ? Im guessing there's a box or gizmo somewhere that would be perfect.
Unfortunately, all of the boxes and gizmos Ive looked at so far seem to duplicate functions I already have, esp mic preamps (dont need any more of those !). I prefer 19" rackmount devices as they work well with portability, and fit into my SKB rig easily.
TIA

Also have a Mackie 16 chnl mixer and hoping to find a way to send the
Master stereo pair (or maybe even track inserts) from the Mackie to the
optical or FW input of my MBP. But how to do this ? Im guessing there's
a box or gizmo somewhere that would be perfect.
if you really want to use the pre's on your mackie, and it has multiple bus/aux outputs which I presume it does, then you can easily set up a device such as the 828 to take all your input channels from the mackie, and then to run a bunch of return pairs back out to it.
depending on your budget there are prob a few others for you to look at. RME and metric halo always get rave reviews from users, but are pricier. also the focusrite sapphire might be worth a look, as well as the apogee ensemble.
also I just noticed you are using logic express, not pro. so there may be some limitations on the number of simultaneous inputs and outputs that I'm unaware of.

Need advice on a proof printer

Hello. So glad I found this site!
I'm currently a print graphic designer and starting a home based business integrating my print design knowledge with newly acquired web design skills to offer a complete package.
I am working on an HP computer, as I cannot afford the Mac I want now. I have all of the Adobe software for PC already, but need advice for a printer.
The machines I work on now are like $18k - 25k color lasers, and clearly that is not in my budget. I'm a little lost as to what to look for in a printer that can handle color proofs of my artwork. I create a lot of raster images in PS, but logo design is one of my focuses, so vector output is essential. I almost always create outlines of fonts for the final press ready file, so I'm not so worried about fonts, but color matching is important.
I've been reading about Postscript and PCL, but am still very confused. I'm also a little confused as to what a rip does or if I need one. We use one at my shop, and I know how to use it, but it lives on the server and was explained that it was only necessary for networking the printers.
I am planning to outsource all of my final printing, but I need a printer for proofing. I've been looking at inkjets for affordability reasons, but now I'm not sure if I need a color laser.
Help!!

Dear VectorGirly, I currently have an OKI Postscript c9800 printer. I use postscript printers because I calibrate and use color profiles to get the closest colour match to the outsourced commercial print that I can. I know this is more than you budgeted for, but it really depends what you end up focusing on. (ie web or print). I focus more on print, hence my printer has to proof postscript correctly for me. I am PC based but my files print to both PC and Mac platforms.
Regarding logos and colors ... firstly, my monitor is calibrated with a Pantone Huey. I use matching color profiles in all my design programs: Indesign, Illustrator, Photoshop. My print PDFs include the color profiles. When I email or post proofs of logos or corporate stationery to clients I make sure they understand that colors will look different on various monitors because they are not calibrated for print and are RGB or color prism based rather than CMYK for print. Even if you choose a Pantone color, unless everything is calibrated and with color profiles, it's unlikely that you will get the same color on your screen, let alone on the client's screen. And if the client is wanting a color that looks good on their screen, it's even harder. I always recommend they look at the proof colours on various screens including friends so they can understand how it changes according to monitors.
Regarding PCL and Postscript: When I purchased my OKI (and my former Fuji Xerox pscript), I sent an existing print PDF (that had gone to commercial print previously) to the head office and asked them to do printouts of all the printers I was interested in. All the printers based as PCL were very inaccurate color. The two with postscript took my PDF and printed correctly and were very close to the final printed output. As I am pedantic on colour (colour in Australian spelling), I had to choose the high end postcript laser. Having said that, I am also very interested in the Fuji Xerox Phaser 8500 which is postscript and solid ink (great for the environment and people with allergies and low running costs - much better than laser) - but I need the A3 and banner printing option and they haven't made one for that size yet. I am hoping the new release may offer a bigger size paper. I have a very high allergy level and have to have the window open and a mask on when changing toners and printing, hence my interest in the solid ink for the future.
I always download my fonts through the print PDF to the printer - I never use printer inbuilt fonts. This is so I know that WYSIWYG (what you see is what you get) when I print commercially as they also download/use the embedded PDF fonts.
Also, somewhere down the line you may find yourself forced to choose between focusing on web and print.
I recommend you choose what you love best.

Need Advice: Re-Ripping ALL of my CDs using ALAC/Apple Lossless

I need advice from some experienced users (having searched for answers for a couple of days and not finding a comprehensive solution). I want to "upgrade" my iTunes library (95% of which is from my CD collection) from ACC (the default iTunes file format) to ALAC (lossless format). I realize that music purchased from the iTunes store will remain in ACC format, but I am using this opportunity to "archive" or "digitize" my CD collection. I have some, but not a lot, of non-critical tags, album art, etc. set up with my current library. I will be saving all of the music files in a new folder on a single hard disc on my network (with backup). I use iTunes Match. I have Windows PCs, Macbook Pro (OSX), iPhone, iPad, iPod. Given these factors, I am seeking recommendations:
Does it make sense to "start over" and create a brand new iTunes library?
(this would certainly give me time to complete my project while still using my current iTunes library)
If yes, what do I need to do in order to "activate" the new library once it is complete in order to reset iTunes Match and all of the other devices using my iTunes library? What complications can I anticipate?
If no, what is the best way to replace the existing albums in my iTunes library with the new ALAC files? Do I simply insert the CD and import it with my new settings? Will iTunes take care of the rest (saving the new file, deleting the old format, matching tags, etc.)? What complications can I anticipate?
What are the advantages/disadvantages of allowing iTunes to "Keep iTunes Media folder organized" and "Copy files to iTunes Media folder when adding to library?"
Any other suggestions, warning, smart alec remarks?
I know there are a lot of questions bound up in this post, but if you have converted your iTunes music collection to one of the lossless or uncompressed formats, I would love to learn from your experience (and am guessing others will as well). Thanks!

In most cases you should be able to re-import your CDs to the existing library - iTunes will automatically replace your media files and retain all previously added metadata. This does depend on the library being the same one as you originally imported the CDs in AAC format (i.e., the same computer or the result of a complete library migration). You should experiment with a couple of CDs to verify this behavior - I've done this successfully to "update" some of the older content of my library which had been imported as 128kbps AAC to 256kbps..
Obviously this approach will put your media into the existing library media folders, which is going to be the simplest approach. If you subsequently want to move the library to a different drive, see turingtest2's user tip on Make a split library portable. If you're concerned about running out of disc space on the drive that currently hosts your library, you could follow these guidelines to move the library to a second, larger drive before starting to re-import using ALAC.
This is the approach I'd recommend, though there are a couple of other possibilities:
Create a new, empty library on the second drive by holding down SHIFT as you start iTunes; when you see this prompt:
click on Create Library..., navigate to the second drive and create the library there (best approach is to create this in a new iTunes folder in the root of the drive. This will guarantee "clean" imports but you'll not be able to re-use any metadata, artwork, playlists, etc. contained in your current library. To switch between libraries, SHIFT-start and use the Choose Library... option to select the library you want to be active.
On the second drive, create a folder called iTunes in the root and a folder called iTunes Media inside this. Then, with iTunes running against your current library, select Edit > Preferences > Advanced, change the iTunes Media folder location to the one you've just created (i.e., X:\iTunes\iTunes Media, if the second drive is "X:". Also make sure that the Keep iTunes Media folder organized and Copy files to iTunes Media folder... options are checked. When you re-import your CDs the media files should be placed on the second drive ... note, though, that I've not verified that this approach will work - in theory it should do but you should definitely test with one or two CDs before going any further. This approach will result in a "split" library where your library database is on the C: drive and the media divided between drives (since your iTunes Store purchases will still be on C:). This is generally not a good idea (if for no other reason than making creation and maintenance of a backup of your library more difficult). Again, tt2's notes on Make a split library portable describe how to bring the library into a consistent, well-formed layout.

Newbie needs advice on audio interface

just purchased iMac 27" with Lion...have nice sounding Taylor 810 accoustic...want to record guitar and vocals, strictly a hobby. need advice on audio interfaces...willing to spend $600 on the Duet 2.0 if it's as good as the web reviews say it is but???... will I hear a difference with a $250 interface like a presonus firestudio mobile (vs. $600 Duet 2)?... want something that sounds great and works well with GB/Lion....thanks

To be honest, if using mics, you will get more out of picking up the FireStudio Mobile and spending the difference (or more) on treating the room you will be recording and mixing in.
As far as Lion is concerned, just check with Presonus about compatibility.
If you pick up the FireStudioMobile, it ships with Studio One Artist. It has a better comping feature than GB does...
TBH, if this is strictly hobby stuff, by the time you treat your recording environment, pick up decent mics, a second hard drive, stands, cables, monitors, headphones, a handful of plugins, another DAW or two, furniture etc, etc, you will not be too concerned about ownng the FireStudio... Its a great little unit that is very reliable and has a solid build.

Need advice about certification: do J2SE 1.4 or wait for 1.5 to go out?

I need advice here! I am studing for Java Programmer certification (310-035) and I know now that the certification does not have any expiration date, instead it's version based. So, if I get now a J2SE 1.4 certification, soon it will be outdated... I guess!
Does anyone know or have any ideia of WHEN java 1.5 sdk will be avaliable, and anyone can tell me how long it will take for a new 1.5 programmer certification be avaliable for general public?

Do both. 1.5 is far enough away that you do not want to wait for it.
And besides, 1.5 has enough new stuff in it that you'll want to recertify anyway.

How to update need by date in Purchase order using an API?

Hi All,
Is there any API available in 11i which can be used to update the need by date in purchase order?
There is a API PO_CHANGE_API1_S.UPDATE_PO, but it updates only the promise date and not the need by date.
Please help !!
Thanks & Regards
Anuj

Your error comes from Sybase, so I suggest you post your question to a Sybase forum. And be aware that Sybase does not use the same tsql dialect as sql server, so you must use their dialect (if, indeed, there is any difference in this particular situation).
One note - there should be no space between "N" and the Unicode string literal to which it applies in tsql. E.g.,
= N'Executive Chair эюя'
not
= N 'Executive Chair эюя'

Need advice on on a Mac Pro 1,1 Media Center

I currently have a 2009 Mac Mini running as my home media center, but I recently came by a FREE Mac Pro 1,1 and have decided to repurpose it as my media center so I can migrate my Mac Mini to my bedroom TV where it will live an easy life doing nothing but run Plex Home Theater, Netflix, and EyeTV. This machine falling into my lap was also quite timely because my 4-bay Drobo is running low on available expansion and another Drobo isn't in the budget at the moment.
This vintage mac pro is running Lion 10.7.5, has 1 old and crusty 500GB hardrive, dual x5160 processors, 4GB RAM (one stick i'm pretty sure is toast judging by the red light and the kernel panics), and the standard NVIDIA GeForce 7300 GT 256MB graphics card. It will be used primarily for the following: network storage for iphoto and itunes libraries, streaming video, Plex Media Server & Plex Home Theater, and Handbrake encoding. I also have a goal of safety of data for my movies, photos and music as this machine will supplement my current Drobo storage.
My plans are for a 128GB SSD boot drive installed in one of the PCIe slots and then to load up all 4 of the 3.5" drive bays with WD Green hard drives. I have also ordered 4GB of replacement RAM, so upon removal of the faulty unit I will have 7GB.
Here is where I need advice because I am not very familiar with RAID and the differences between hardware or software raid. Am I better off getting four drives of the same size and setting them up as RAID 5 (I think) using Apple's RAID utility or should I throw in three 1TB drives and then install a fourth 3TB or 4TB drive as a Time Machine backup for the other three?
Should I upgrade the OSX to the technically unsupported latest version? Or is it not worth the trouble for this application?
Also, is there any benefit to upgrading the graphics card to the ATI Radeon 5770? Would this yield an improved image quality? I am outputting to a Denon AV Reciever and subsequently to a 100" projection screen, if that makes a difference. I also noticed the 5770 has an HDMI port, wich would be nice, but not necessary since I can use a DVI converter and woud still need to use the optical audio out anyway.
Much obliged for any input

My plans are for a 128GB SSD boot drive installed in one of the PCIe slots and then to load up all 4 of the 3.5" drive bays with WD Green hard drives. I have also ordered 4GB of replacement RAM, so upon removal of the faulty unit I will have 7GB.
PCIe cards that use or support SSD are not bootable until you get to 2008 (and that is limited too).
Green are not suited for any form of array unless say NAS and WD RED. Better option would be 3 x 2TB WD Blacks in a mirror, and too many people only use two drives, well 3 is much easier safer and works better. Might want to invest in www.SoftRAID.com product even.
Best price and quality, got my 1,1 with 8 x 2GB (ideal is 4 or 8 DIMMs)
2x2GB FBDIMM DDR2 667MHz @ $25
http://www.amazon.com/BUFFERED-PC2-5300-FB-DIMM-APPLE-Memory/dp/B002ORUUAC/
With price of 250GB SSD $155 I'd go with that or stick with $89 for 128GB .

HT2534 When I try to set up an Apple ID, it's asking for a credit card, and there is no "None" option, like this page suggests. How can I bypass this? This iPad is for a younger child who has no credit card, and will not need to make any purchases.

When I try to set up an Apple ID, it's asking for a credit card, and there is no "None" option, like this page suggests. How can I bypass this? This iPad is for a younger child who has no credit card, and will not need to make any purchases.

You can create an iTune and App Store account without credit card details
1. Sign out of current Apple ID if you are sign-in to one (important)
2. Go to App Store and select a free app
3. Tap INSTALL APP
4. Create New Apple ID
5. Confirm Your Country
6. Agree with Terms and Conditions
7. Fill in your Apple ID and Password (you must create a new Apple ID; don't use your old Apple ID)
8. Create and answer your secret question
9. Select NONE for Payment Method
10. Fill in Billing Address
11. Submit application for new Apple ID
12. Wait for verification email
13. When email arrive, verify your account
14. Start downloading your free apps

Need advice on a purchase

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