Need advice on editing in PP through LR4

Going through edit/preferences and selecting the PP exe file, but getting error messages when trying to edit.
Bad agrument #1 to lower (string expected, got nil)

Got it solved by installling the beta version of 4.1

Similar Messages

New Year Video Transfer/Edit Project - Need Advice

All you experts out there, please tell us if this plan will work?
We have 3 large boxes of family videos that we need to transfer to DVD.
We are about to purchase video-to-DVD transfer equipment. (Sony DVDirect VRD-MC5?)
We have iMovie, but haven't used it yet. We realize there will be a steep learning curve, but we did buy some books to help and have plenty of time to learn.
Plan: 1) Transfer, unedited, the videos to DVD using the Sony. Apparently this requires little oversight. 2) Load the DVD to iMovie for editing. One of us works a night job that often has a lot of down time that can be used to edit these DVDs. 3) Burn a new DVD, the "keeper" and then make copies for all the kids.
Is this our best option? Thanks for sharing your experience!

Given what you have said, I think the EyeTV Hybrid might be a good solution for you, although the Sony box may be OK too, but it will give you fewer options in the future if you or your kids decide to edit or move to the internet.
With the EyeTV Hybrid, you hook it up to the VHS VCR through the red, white and yellow cables out the back. It goes in to EyeTV software on the Mac. At this point, you can transfer it directly to some DVD burning software called [Toast|http://www.roxio.com/enu/products/toast/titanium/overview.html], and never get iMovie involved. If you decide later to send to iMovie for editing, [EyeTV|http://www.elgato.com/elgato/na/mainmenu/products/hybrid/product1.en.htm l] can send it there.
I have found that with the new iMovie 08, I can edit these videos rather quickly, cut out all the jerky camera pans, cut out the redundant scenes, and add titles and music. A movie that would take me a week in iMovie 6, I can now do in an evening.
My biggest advice would be to think through how you will use the video... e.g. DVD, iPod, internet, AppleTV, iMovie, anything you can think of that you will actually use in the near future.
Then, get the hardware and software you need and pick one tape and work it through the whole workflow so you understand everything from front to back. Then you can start picking up the speed and just doing the imports, etc.
1) Where do we purchase a "digital analog converter"? Is there a brand name that works well? You >>make a good point about working with the original. Do we understand correctly that we'd use this >>converter to transfer a VHS playing in a VCR directly to iMovie where it could be saved and edited, >>burn a DVD, and then move on to the next VHS tape?
Canopus sells digital audio converters, which converts your analog into DV format, which is a good format for editing. The EyeTV, mentioned above, will take your analog and save it is MPEG2, which is the format that DVD players use, but requires some extra conversion before you edit it. So if you are primarily doing editing, go with the Canopus. If you are going straight to DVD, the EyeTV is fine.
2) Does the Wii work like the Sony playbox? These are new things for us..., but we do have a Wii >> now - got it for Christmas.
Enjoy your Wii. I have heard they are great, but it will not help you play video (that I know of). The reason that some people use the Playstation 3 is that it has a built in BluRay player that can play high definition movies, and i has the added quality that you don't have to burn a BluRay DVD to put high definition content on it. You can use a thumb drive, for example. Not really relevant to your application.
3) Does an Apple TV actually store the movies then? Can they later be downloaded, edited, and >> saved to DVD or whatever is the latest thing? (Obviously we don't have an Apple TV and don't >> know a thing about them.) Would this be a quick fix? If we could store them now, be able to
view them easily, and later, as we have time, we could edit and burn them to a DVD, that might >> be worth the money.
With the Apple TV, you can either store the movies on your Mac, or you can store them on the Apple TV. Usually, you would want to use the TV to watch edited movies, not long unedited ones. When a movie is ready for TV, it is already in a format that can be burned (h.264). If you ever watch movies on an iPhone, it is the same format, but a better picture because the video is created at larger dimensions and at a higher data rate. The TV is primarily a convenience, because you can pick your movies off a menu. You don't have to get up and change DVDs.

Need advice on video software.

Need advice on video software.
I currently use adobe elements 3 and have done so for a few years now with no problems. my os is XP and my system is a couple of years old, but we do have a brand new win7 machine in the house.
I am currently look at Cyberlink PowerDirector 8 Ultra OR Adobe Premiere Elements 8. Reviews for both softwares seem very good BUT, when I dig deeper into user reviews instead of editor reviews do I find problems.
Major problems with program crashing all over the place, at start up etc, and it is still not getting along with any win7 machine? Major problems with drivers. Honestly, I do not want to have to jump through dozens of hoops to get any software to run. After I pay for it, it should run, period.
Has anyone else here used both softwares and can you give an honest opinion of each?
I am also asking these same questions on the cyberlink site.
I would like to upgrade my video software to take advantage of the new features that are coming out but I really don't want a big headache trying to run one or the other. To be fair, when I bought adobe elements 3 I had also bought pinnacle, which has gathered dust since my first week with it, which is why elements was purchased. That was money wasted and I do not wish to repeat this. I would like to go with Premiere Elements 8 but remain very unsure.

If your newer machine is Win7 64-bit, it might be worth waiting for SP-1 to be issued, and then hope that 64-bit drivers are fully included. The 64-bit drivers now seem t be an issue at this point, and that will affect any NLE program.
Also, and regardless of which particular program you choose, optimizing your computer, the OS, the hardware, and the resources management, will go a very long way to insuring success. Few programs can tax a computer, as an NLE can - any NLE. Video and Audio editing will stress your system, like almost nothing else can, except for heavy-duty CAD, or 3D work, though those are usually done only on specialized, optimized computers, designed just for those applications.
Not the specific advice that you seek, but it's the best that I can do.
Good luck,
Hunt

JMS to Synchronous Web Service Scenario (Need Advice to use BPM or Not)

Hi Experts,
We have a scenario where we fetch data from JMS Sender and Send it to MDM Webservices.
We want to have the files processed in such a way that until we get a response from webservice back that it was sucessful ,then only we need to process the next file.
We would need advice as can we use BPM for this.
We are thinking of having BPM like this:
RecieveStep(Asyn)-SynchronousSend Step(with wait)-Stop
The problem with this is when processing huge files the processing time of the Queue is taking very long and sometimes we are getting SYSFAIL.
Please would anyone advice as how can we approach this scenario either using BPM or without.
Also Can we use multiple queues or multpile instances concept for this scenario.
Please Advice.
Thanks in Advance
Regards
J

Hi Prateek,
Thank you very much for your quick reply.
The response from Webservice does not need to be sent anywhere.
We just want that after recieving the response back from webservice(SOAP) then only we need to process the next file.
Can we control something from Sender JMS adapter side as well as it is picking up all the files and all files wait at BPE until each one gets processed.
Is this possible without BPM or with BPM.
Please advice as what wud be possible steps inorder to achive it through BPM or Without BPM.
Thanks and Regards,
J

Doc Project with format confusion- need advice

I have a documentary project with a plethora of footage formats because the doc spans a long length of time and different project collaborators. We just shot more footage and I don't want to move forward converting the new footage until I know the best path to take form here on out. please advise.
Here is the info.
Below i'm listing the descritption of footage, the format, and the % I'm predicting it will be used in the final edit of the documentary I'm working on.
Archival Footage: DV NTSC 720x480 (10%)
Original footage shot: DV NTSC 720x480 anamorphic (40%)
Additional Footage shot in Summer 2010 with Panasonic HVX200: DVCPRO HD 720p60 29.97 (35% shared with canon 7D footage listed below)
Additional Footage shot in Summer 2010 with Canon 7D: shot 1920x1080 23.98 Apple Pro Res 422, pixel aspect square. I converted this footage to 720p60 29.97 to match the Panasonic footage but I still have the original files saved. (35% shared with hvx200 footage listed above)
New Footage shot with Canon 7D: 1920x1080 23.98 Apple Pro Res 422, pixel aspect square (15%)
Timelines:
- I edit the SD footage in timelines with SD sequence settings matching the format of the footage
- I edit the HD footage in timelines with DVCPRO HD sequence settings matching the format of the footage
- when footage of both formats ends up in one 'scene' the timeline is DV NTSC 720x480
- when I output a rough cut, I nested sequences and output DV NTSC 720x480
I have not converted the new footage yet and before I do convert it and then transform continue editing, I feel I need to re-evauluate how I'm approaching the multi-format situation. I need advice about the best path to take from here on out. WHAT WOULD YOU DO?
Should I upconvert the SD footage and do everything HD from now on? The final cut will probably be 50% SD and 50% HD with possibly more HD than SD.
If I do upconvert and go HD, is 720p60 29.97 the best format for me to use considering my footage sources? If you have any ideas, please also explain how you might go about carrying them out.
Thank you!

krgarty wrote:
Exactly, whic is why I'm seeking advice. the final delivery will be film festival screenings and hopefully broadcast, and considering the channels today that = HD.
That's not a final decision at all, that's a series of delivery options. You must produce your project in the highest resolution for which you have space, codecs and techniucal competency.You will save that as the "final" but I'd not call it that since nothing is ever finalized. Jsut keep naming the versions. Then you will open the full rez version and use any of several conversion or compresiona apps to satisfy all other distribution needs.
The omst flexible will be a 1080/60 format but that decision will cost you tons of conversion time, lots of space, and will require many stylistic decisions along the way.
That's what I would do but I'm not you and I'm not your client.

Need advice: v5 versus v5.5

Newbie with less than a month's experience using a free trial of v5.5 for the specific purpose of creating the interior layout and wraparound cover for a trade paperback needs advice on the following;
It didn't take long to realize that my objectives barely scratch the surface of ID's capabilities. My guess is that everything I've done so far or will need to do in the future for other books, novels in black and white, simple chapter by chapter layouts with no images or columns, can be accomplished perfectly well with v5. To spend the extra money for features I'll never use seems unnecessary, and I'd appreciate feedback on whether I'm correct in my assumption.
Thanks in advance for your advice.

I know there are legitimatecopies of CS5 availble, but they aren't that easy to find (Amazon is one source, though, I think), and they will get harder every day.
For simple printed publications you are correct and the version doesn't matter much, but the world is heading more towards electronic distribution channels, and novels are ideal formats for e-book readers. CS5.5 is head and shoulders above CS5 in its capabilities for that market.
Presumably CS6 and beyond will be even more user-friendly for electronic publication (nobody can tell you what will or will not be in future versions, but the handwriting is on the wall), so if you think you will have money for an upgrade in another year or so after the succesful print run of your book (and if the current trend on upgrade pricing is an indicator, it will be expensive), it might make sense to buy CS5 now, but my instinct is that you'd be better off with CS5.5 and the ability to get your book onto iPad or Kindle now (with some more study) without jumping through quite as many hoops.
And just for reference, I only do print, myself, but I'm old.

I need a function that will go through and encrypt all the strings

I want to use one way enryption and need a function that will
go through and encrypt all the strings in my password column in sql
server 2003.
I also need a function that compares a test password string
is equal to the hash value in the database. Can anyone give me some
advice in this?

Apparently it's not as simple as I thought. My first instinct
was
update yourtable set password = '#hash(password)#'
but that will crash
This is inefficient, but you only have to do it once.
query1
select id, password thepassword
from yourtable
cfloop query="query1"
update yourtable
set password = '#hash(thepassword)#'
where id = #id#

Need advice on a proof printer

Hello. So glad I found this site!
I'm currently a print graphic designer and starting a home based business integrating my print design knowledge with newly acquired web design skills to offer a complete package.
I am working on an HP computer, as I cannot afford the Mac I want now. I have all of the Adobe software for PC already, but need advice for a printer.
The machines I work on now are like $18k - 25k color lasers, and clearly that is not in my budget. I'm a little lost as to what to look for in a printer that can handle color proofs of my artwork. I create a lot of raster images in PS, but logo design is one of my focuses, so vector output is essential. I almost always create outlines of fonts for the final press ready file, so I'm not so worried about fonts, but color matching is important.
I've been reading about Postscript and PCL, but am still very confused. I'm also a little confused as to what a rip does or if I need one. We use one at my shop, and I know how to use it, but it lives on the server and was explained that it was only necessary for networking the printers.
I am planning to outsource all of my final printing, but I need a printer for proofing. I've been looking at inkjets for affordability reasons, but now I'm not sure if I need a color laser.
Help!!

Dear VectorGirly, I currently have an OKI Postscript c9800 printer. I use postscript printers because I calibrate and use color profiles to get the closest colour match to the outsourced commercial print that I can. I know this is more than you budgeted for, but it really depends what you end up focusing on. (ie web or print). I focus more on print, hence my printer has to proof postscript correctly for me. I am PC based but my files print to both PC and Mac platforms.
Regarding logos and colors ... firstly, my monitor is calibrated with a Pantone Huey. I use matching color profiles in all my design programs: Indesign, Illustrator, Photoshop. My print PDFs include the color profiles. When I email or post proofs of logos or corporate stationery to clients I make sure they understand that colors will look different on various monitors because they are not calibrated for print and are RGB or color prism based rather than CMYK for print. Even if you choose a Pantone color, unless everything is calibrated and with color profiles, it's unlikely that you will get the same color on your screen, let alone on the client's screen. And if the client is wanting a color that looks good on their screen, it's even harder. I always recommend they look at the proof colours on various screens including friends so they can understand how it changes according to monitors.
Regarding PCL and Postscript: When I purchased my OKI (and my former Fuji Xerox pscript), I sent an existing print PDF (that had gone to commercial print previously) to the head office and asked them to do printouts of all the printers I was interested in. All the printers based as PCL were very inaccurate color. The two with postscript took my PDF and printed correctly and were very close to the final printed output. As I am pedantic on colour (colour in Australian spelling), I had to choose the high end postcript laser. Having said that, I am also very interested in the Fuji Xerox Phaser 8500 which is postscript and solid ink (great for the environment and people with allergies and low running costs - much better than laser) - but I need the A3 and banner printing option and they haven't made one for that size yet. I am hoping the new release may offer a bigger size paper. I have a very high allergy level and have to have the window open and a mask on when changing toners and printing, hence my interest in the solid ink for the future.
I always download my fonts through the print PDF to the printer - I never use printer inbuilt fonts. This is so I know that WYSIWYG (what you see is what you get) when I print commercially as they also download/use the embedded PDF fonts.
Also, somewhere down the line you may find yourself forced to choose between focusing on web and print.
I recommend you choose what you love best.

Need Advice: Re-Ripping ALL of my CDs using ALAC/Apple Lossless

I need advice from some experienced users (having searched for answers for a couple of days and not finding a comprehensive solution). I want to "upgrade" my iTunes library (95% of which is from my CD collection) from ACC (the default iTunes file format) to ALAC (lossless format). I realize that music purchased from the iTunes store will remain in ACC format, but I am using this opportunity to "archive" or "digitize" my CD collection. I have some, but not a lot, of non-critical tags, album art, etc. set up with my current library. I will be saving all of the music files in a new folder on a single hard disc on my network (with backup). I use iTunes Match. I have Windows PCs, Macbook Pro (OSX), iPhone, iPad, iPod. Given these factors, I am seeking recommendations:
Does it make sense to "start over" and create a brand new iTunes library?
(this would certainly give me time to complete my project while still using my current iTunes library)
If yes, what do I need to do in order to "activate" the new library once it is complete in order to reset iTunes Match and all of the other devices using my iTunes library? What complications can I anticipate?
If no, what is the best way to replace the existing albums in my iTunes library with the new ALAC files? Do I simply insert the CD and import it with my new settings? Will iTunes take care of the rest (saving the new file, deleting the old format, matching tags, etc.)? What complications can I anticipate?
What are the advantages/disadvantages of allowing iTunes to "Keep iTunes Media folder organized" and "Copy files to iTunes Media folder when adding to library?"
Any other suggestions, warning, smart alec remarks?
I know there are a lot of questions bound up in this post, but if you have converted your iTunes music collection to one of the lossless or uncompressed formats, I would love to learn from your experience (and am guessing others will as well). Thanks!

In most cases you should be able to re-import your CDs to the existing library - iTunes will automatically replace your media files and retain all previously added metadata. This does depend on the library being the same one as you originally imported the CDs in AAC format (i.e., the same computer or the result of a complete library migration). You should experiment with a couple of CDs to verify this behavior - I've done this successfully to "update" some of the older content of my library which had been imported as 128kbps AAC to 256kbps..
Obviously this approach will put your media into the existing library media folders, which is going to be the simplest approach. If you subsequently want to move the library to a different drive, see turingtest2's user tip on Make a split library portable. If you're concerned about running out of disc space on the drive that currently hosts your library, you could follow these guidelines to move the library to a second, larger drive before starting to re-import using ALAC.
This is the approach I'd recommend, though there are a couple of other possibilities:
Create a new, empty library on the second drive by holding down SHIFT as you start iTunes; when you see this prompt:
click on Create Library..., navigate to the second drive and create the library there (best approach is to create this in a new iTunes folder in the root of the drive. This will guarantee "clean" imports but you'll not be able to re-use any metadata, artwork, playlists, etc. contained in your current library. To switch between libraries, SHIFT-start and use the Choose Library... option to select the library you want to be active.
On the second drive, create a folder called iTunes in the root and a folder called iTunes Media inside this. Then, with iTunes running against your current library, select Edit > Preferences > Advanced, change the iTunes Media folder location to the one you've just created (i.e., X:\iTunes\iTunes Media, if the second drive is "X:". Also make sure that the Keep iTunes Media folder organized and Copy files to iTunes Media folder... options are checked. When you re-import your CDs the media files should be placed on the second drive ... note, though, that I've not verified that this approach will work - in theory it should do but you should definitely test with one or two CDs before going any further. This approach will result in a "split" library where your library database is on the C: drive and the media divided between drives (since your iTunes Store purchases will still be on C:). This is generally not a good idea (if for no other reason than making creation and maintenance of a backup of your library more difficult). Again, tt2's notes on Make a split library portable describe how to bring the library into a consistent, well-formed layout.

Really need advice/help please

I am importing VHS movies and I need advice on procedures, I am really stuck so any advice given will be very helpful.
I have my VCR connected to a ADVC300 analog to digital convertor, which is hooked up to my macbook.
I am using iMovie 08, but have the previous one installed iMovie HD 6.
I have no problem importing the footage... it comes in as a DV file (which I believe I need in order to edit footage later on).
My problem is:
1) The size of the DV is HUGE. Is this the format that I need to edit to later put on DVD by converting to mp4?
2) I am a total novice, so is iMovie the best for doing the import? I have Final Cut Express, but I am not sure how to use it.
3) I also have QT Pro, but after I am done doing an import and transfer the DV file to my back up drive... I cant seem to get the import to pull up in iMovie again. Do you have to do the editing right away after the import or you loose the ability in iMovie?
4) My HD space on my computer is almost full and I thought that I deleted the DV file off my computer after transfering it to a backup drive. I went into Movies, and iMovies and deleted it... but it must be stored somewhere else, because I have like 60 GB used still?
Thank you SO MUCH!!!!

1) The size of the DV is HUGE. Is this the format that I need to edit to later put on DVD by >converting to mp4?
Yes, DV is huge. You really need an external drive. The hugeness of DV is not an issue for iDVD. iDVD will convert the DV or MP4 into MPEG2 for encoding on the DVD. If you get iMovie 09, you can send DV to iDVD. In iMovie 08, you share as an h.264 file and that goes to iDVD. In my experience, not much difference.
2) I am a total novice, so is iMovie the best for doing the import? I have Final Cut Express, but I am >not sure how to use it.
Yes, iMovie 08/9 is the best. You can easily edit in iMovie 08. However if you later want to edit in FCE, you can access these files from FCE. If you import into FCE, iMovie can't see them.
3) I also have QT Pro, but after I am done doing an import and transfer the DV file to my back up >drive... I cant seem to get the import to pull up in iMovie again. Do you have to do the editing right >away after the import or you loose the ability in iMovie?
In iMovie, click VIEW/EVENTS BY VOLUME. You should see your external drive in the Event Library list. You can drag your file from your internal drive to the external drive by dragging and dropping the icon for your event onto the icon for the external drive. If you do it this way, iMovie will still see it.
4) My HD space on my computer is almost full and I thought that I deleted the DV file off my >computer after transfering it to a backup drive. I went into Movies, and iMovies and deleted it... but >it must be stored somewhere else, because I have like 60 GB used still?
It might be in your trash. Try emptying your trash.

HELP: New to Mavericks. Need advice on setting up secure user accounts

Hi,
I need advice on how to best set up user accounts on Mavericks.
I must set up an Administrative account...Any suggestion for best settings here to protect against targeted malicious exploits?
I would also like to set up two user accounts for everyday work with applications and Internet browsing done in such a way that the machine would be protected from malicious attacks but with a minimum of inconvience for the users ( myself and my wife ).
Thanks

Hi hassiman, any exploits will come in the form of users downloading suspect pieces of software like browser add-ons and extensions, device drivers and non-trusted apps.
Make sure that you do not use the admin account for any day to day use
Create two normal user accounts, one for each of you and use them day to day
When using the admin account to set up your system, pay very careful attention to the System Preferences > Privacy & Security area. There are various things to set up properly here:
There are three settings for how people can download software, 1) From Mac App Store only, 2) From App Store and registered developers and 3) from anyone. It defaults to 2) but check it and if you feel uncomfortable with that, set it to 1). This might prevent you from downloading and installing software you think you might need; but think carefully about wether you really need it and therefore wether you should temporarily allow it via a lower setting.
For the firewall, if you dont have a firewalled internet gateway device (a wireless router or similar), make sure the firewall is turned on. Most internet connection equipment does have such a firewall; make sure it is blocking any incoming connections by using its admin tool (usually a web browser interface). Consult its documentation for details.
Whenever OS X asks for a password to complete a task of any kind, look carefully at what is making it ask and if you aren't sure, don't go through with it; it is usually wanting the admin account name and ppassword to complete some kind of system modification (install, config etc.).
Make sure that you are both aware of the danger of installing any software that wants to add itself to your system or web browser. Things like custom search bars, extensions etc. If you are viewing a web page and it says you need "x" to see it or use it properly, make sure you really need to use that web site; otherwise don't do it.
It really all comes down to common sense; the worst security breaches and damage come from users who don't know what to do, but they still click "OK" when they should be clicking "cancel" or "close". Make sure you and your wife are fully aware that responsibility lies with yourselves. It is better to take a minute to decide wether to install something (even if it's 20 times a week) than spend days fixing a compromised system.

Need advice on a DVD program that I can use to Airstream to Apple TV via iMac

Need advice on a DVD program that I can use to Airstream To Apple TV

If you have mountain lion you should be able to mirror your screen on your Apple TV through an airplay settings pane in system preferencse.

Need Advice on Netgear Router

I have a old snow base station that is connected by ethernet cable to my new wireless internet service. The cable goes to an antenna device that receives and transmits the internet signal. The isp wanted me to configure the base station to connect using PPPOE. That initially worked but the connection drops frequently during the day with a lot of effort expended in reacquiring it. They've had me switch the configuration by manually enter the ip address and dns numbers. This worked for a while but is now dropping again.
The isp has recommended using a netgear router which they claim many of their customers are using without issue. I need advice as to which model would be appropriate for a 3 story townhouse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
John
Message was edited by: Pappasbike

The old basestaions are notorious for being completely unreliable. I bought the entry level Netgear Router for about $25 and it has been flawless; providing 3 of my roommates with wirless access for over a year.

Neo2 865-ls compatibility issue - plz ASAP need advice

Hey guys,
Im recently building a computer with the new 865pe chipset. I tried IS-7 but it was DOA. I rma it. Then I tried asus p4p800 delux...i rma twice cuz thier was problem with my all in wonder ati radeon 9700 pro pn-XXX-10, it have conflict with that version,. Asus and ABit has bad support. Right now im thinking about either getting MSI Or INTEL. INTEL board are reliable and stable but too freaking slow and too skimpy. I want to get MSI 865pe neo2 -ls but alot off ppl have problems with da board ?( ask am reading in this forum. So im confuse. If anybody thier can give me help or tell me that these parts will be compatible with new 865pe neo2-ls. I need advice soon cuz im going back to college in a week and i have to get it set up by then.
My parts.
Cruciall DDR 400
p4 2.8c (800FSB) HT
WD caviar 80gb 8mb cache
sony dvd player
420watts thermalake pure power
ALL IN WONDER 9700 pro - pn version pn-XXXXXXXX-10
Thank you very much guys. :P

Hi Joni Guapz,
There shouldn't be any issue on this board if you do the proper setups accordingly.
1 word of advice for you. This mobo is very very very particular of the RAMs working on it, therefore, please kindly refer to the following page for a list of compatible RAMs:
http://www.msi.com.tw/program/products/mainboard/mbd/pro_mbd_detail.php?UID=433
Please note that if you are an o/clocker, I suggest you browsing through the older post of the forum through the search engine and see which are the best selected RAMs for your board, or you can go to the following thread by me on Mobo vs RAMs etc... on the top of 1st page and see the pros and cons listed out from individual users.
All in all, this is a very very very good and stable board for me myself(in my signature) and it rocks very smoothly during gaming, ripping music and multi-tasking.
All the Best... :D!!!

Need advice about certification: do J2SE 1.4 or wait for 1.5 to go out?

I need advice here! I am studing for Java Programmer certification (310-035) and I know now that the certification does not have any expiration date, instead it's version based. So, if I get now a J2SE 1.4 certification, soon it will be outdated... I guess!
Does anyone know or have any ideia of WHEN java 1.5 sdk will be avaliable, and anyone can tell me how long it will take for a new 1.5 programmer certification be avaliable for general public?

Do both. 1.5 is far enough away that you do not want to wait for it.
And besides, 1.5 has enough new stuff in it that you'll want to recertify anyway.

Need advice on editing in PP through LR4

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for