Need advice on my new Scratch disk

I just received my new Seagate 750 gig external drive.
What should I know before hooking it up to my MacBook and use it with FCE?
Do I need to format it?

It did take a few seconds. Thanks!
And I set the scratch disk to the new drive.
On my macbook pro there is only one FW400 Firewire plug receptacle. On the Seagate there are 2. Can I use one for the camera and the other, obviously to connect it to the mac?
Thanks again
Gary

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I need to configure a new hard disk as backup disk for time machine. The set up program is running and it says it will take 9 days to backup about 56 GB. Is it normal ?

I need to configure a new hard disk as backup disk for time machine.
The set up program is running since two hours and it says it will take 9 days to backup about 56 GB.
Is it normal ?

Roberto 17 wrote:
I started this morning at 12 and after 5 hours now the backup is about 6 GB up on 56 GB.
The new HD is a WD My Passport Edge 500 GB capacity
5 hours to do 6 GB of transfer is NOT normal, even for USB 2.0 so there's something wrong here. I'd say cancel it, wipe the drive and then test the integrity of the drive. Do some file transfers over to and see if it's behaving normally. It could be a bad USB cable, it could be a bad drive or bad enclosure. As it's new, I suspect you haven't really put it through its paces yet and it's important to do that first before commissioning it to serve as your "reliable backup."

Set New Scratch Disk for rendering...

I finished a short film on a HD with no space left at the moment. To render the video, I'll need to set a new disk to render to, but everytime I set the scratch disks to my main drive (plenty of space left, I'm desperate) and checked the render video and audio boxes, and unchecked them on my old HD. It's a pretty messy project with files everywhere, truly unorganized. But I need to set the render folder on my main one and it is still referring to my other drive when I try to render anything, which does not have enough space left to render anything. Any solutions?
So far I've tried restarting FCP and that's it.

When you go back to your System Preferences settings, you can see your main disk as scratch disk or you see your old setting to the external one?
Try trashing your FCP preferences and setting everything again.

I need a new Macbook but -.I need advice regarding the new fixed configurations

I have a MacBook from 2007 and it probably needs replacing as I'm starting to see problems, little hints that any day it might completely stop working. I was ready to buy a new computer but after reading about the new MacBook Pros, it seems like Apple has forgotten its roots.
Let's say you get 8 GB of RAM which is probably enough for my purposes( but I'm still not sure, I might get 16 though its very expensive) and there is a problem with the RAM. Do you really have to replace the entire logic board and what are we talking in terms of parts and labor assuming you are out of warranty? This happened to my current Macbook and it was very cheap because I was able to snap new chips in but everything is soldered on the new Macbooks and I don't want to buy a computer that I might be throwing away in 2 years.
The same questrion applies in regard to the CPU. If it fails, is this going to be a huge repair bill?
Another major concern regards complaints from dissapointed customers who are unhappy with the glare of the screen. As I have eye problems, this could be a big issue for me.
Finally, but less of a problem, Its disappointing that you need to purchase an ethernet adaptor and have to buy an external CD/DVD drive. People look at me like I'm crazy when I talk about CD drives, but I listen to a lot of classical music which you cannot get on the net, and, even if you can, it is of low quality. You have to go to a store like Amoeba to find the CD. Not a huge deal, but a bit annoying and these little things add up.
I'm starting to think I may have to take a look at PC's, something, I never thought I'd do again.

I'd recommend 8 GB RAM, based upon all the information available today it should be sufficient for a very long time. OS X "Mavericks" uses system resources extremely efficiently and the MBP's flash memory goes a long way toward masking a paucity of RAM. Apple claimed that Mavericks' new memory compression algorithm results in an effective increase of 50% more memory than what is actually installed, a claim that I have empirically determined to be accurate, perhaps a bit conservative. In other words 8 GB memory will perform as if 12 GB were actually installed, if not for OS X's memory compression algorithm. Even 4 GB is sufficient for Mavericks whereas it was barely adequate for Mountain Lion.
If you were to ask an iPad or iPhone owner how much memory it has, and if they actually understood what you were asking, most would not know, or care. Nor should they. Such is the future of the Mac product line.
The same questrion applies in regard to the CPU. If it fails, is this going to be a huge repair bill?
It certainly will. Fortunately I have never heard of a single case in which a Mac's CPU has failed.
Another major concern regards complaints from dissapointed customers who are unhappy with the glare of the screen.
All you can do is try it for yourself. Matte screens have disadvantages too. If you don't like your MBP, return it for a full refund, no questions asked. You have 14 days to decide.
Classical music used to been a challenge to find on iTunes, but Apple has been getting better. You can still buy an external CD drive to import your music; they're not terribly expensive.
Any computer design is a study in compromises and an optical drive simply isn't worth the tradeoffs. People howled about Apple's decision to eliminate floppy disk drives too, even as they were ridiculed for originally promoting the 3 1/2" floppy disk format. What Apple creates, Apple destroys, lest someone else do it for them.
In any event optical discs are antiquated and obsolete, so get used to the idea.
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Choice is good. Knock yourself out.

I need to install a new hard disk - not sure how to install

Hello;
I travelled for a month, and didn't turn off my imac, which I thought I did. My country is hot at this time of the year.
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Roberto 17 wrote:
I started this morning at 12 and after 5 hours now the backup is about 6 GB up on 56 GB.
The new HD is a WD My Passport Edge 500 GB capacity
5 hours to do 6 GB of transfer is NOT normal, even for USB 2.0 so there's something wrong here. I'd say cancel it, wipe the drive and then test the integrity of the drive. Do some file transfers over to and see if it's behaving normally. It could be a bad USB cable, it could be a bad drive or bad enclosure. As it's new, I suspect you haven't really put it through its paces yet and it's important to do that first before commissioning it to serve as your "reliable backup."

I need advice on a new PC to run my CS5

I would be grateful for your thoughts on the wisdom of this new build? I am limited in my knowledge. I only have one previous build. Thank you ahead of time for your thoughts.
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Tower: $50 Rosewill CHALLENGER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower
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I wouldn't even touch that Hitachi hard drive. They're soooo terrible at failure rates. For a secondary that's high speed with low heat and has long term wear leveling and good reviews, go with a high capacity Western Digital Intellipower drive. They spin down to 5200 RPM when not in use but at full speed (7200) they get 120MB/s or more in real world read speed tests.
That SSD is pretty scary too. Their failure rate and performance degradation are frightening. That manufacturer uses typically 1000-4000 write cycle before dying chips and the implementation of the controller was rushed and glitchy. For ultra long term stability without the flash chips failing, I'd go with an Agility 4 or Vertex 4. The agilities are a bit pokey at like mid-200Mbps speeds in reality and the Vertex ones aren't very much more $. The only problem is, they arrive super glitchy until you flash the firmware and since some are destructive, you may need another PC to do it prior to installing Windows. They definitely last 9000+ writes though and have an internal inter-flash-chip RAID system inside the hard drive itself! So if one chip fails, you can still get your data! FREAKING AMAZING! Also, automatic garbage collection and low voltage, less destructive writes. Otherwise for just plain high grade chips, go with an Intel SSD, preferably a 520 or 330 series. They don't have any stupid firmware glitches or problems I've build Kingston HyperX ones that allegedly just use nice chips but nothing special for preventing them from failing. They're just crazy fast.
By the way, you may want to take a look at the Rosewill FUTURE case on newegg. It's like $55 marked down from $90 or so and quite a bit nicer than the Challenger. I have one in stock at my store and I think it's nicer quality overall than the $140 MSI Nighthawk sitting next to it.
The mouse and keyboard look a bit generic and thus risky. A very high rated set is the Logitech MK120 for around $16. They're very nice but not incredible but they're also not $40.
I also don't think the i7s are worth it for much of anything these days. If you're using CUDA, the CPU is barely used in video editing so I'd drop it to a high end ivy bridge i5. I have an i5 at home (sandy bridge) and it blazes through Premiere Elements 10, which I don't believe uses CUDA at all actually. So yeah, they're FAST. Speaking of graphics cards, I'm not at all an expert on which are best for Adobe software Oh and my i5 at home is a sandy so it's 90W and the new Ivy ones are 77W so you might be able to dump the custom cooler but mine does run pretty darn hot and 13W isn't a huge difference. Speaking of cooling, put one of these in whatever case you get: COOLER MASTER R4-C2R-20AC-GP. They're silent and very high CFM. I have 3 of them in my system is it seems excessive. According to my math, it swaps out 100% of the air every 2.1 seconds lol.
For the RAM, that speed will definitely make your system run unstably. The memory controllers in i7's and new i5's run at 1600. If you go too far past that, you'll blue screen or damage your board. What you really want is to run at the recommended, non-OC speed with lower timing RAM. That means it takes less cycles to perform the action. In other words, just faster, not hotter or higher voltage. What's the the performance difference between that and high speed, high timing ram? NOTHING! It's basically the same RAM with different XMP profiles except it doesn't overheat your board or melt your processor, lol. One of the highest rated RAM sets of all time is the G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1600 (PC3 12800) D F3-12800CL8D-8GBXM set. That's 8-8-8-24 timing! Speaking of that, I've ran Starcraft II while watching an HD movie on Netflix with a 600DPI 8.5 x 11" photoshop file with 70 layers open and my system was using 5.1 GB of RAM. So I don't think anything but a web server needs more than 8GB. I never encoded a blu-ray though but I doubt it'd hit 8. You could always just get 2 sets of these or the 4-pack (F3-1600C8Q-16GAB) which is unfortunately out of stock on newegg or the 2x8 set, which is Sniper memory, F3-1600C9D-16GSR (also out of stock!).
If you're going to drop a bunch of money on a board, why go with Gigabyte? ASUS and MSI are the best and Gigabyte is sort of 2nd place. The MSI Z77A-G45 is a fantastic board for like $5 more. if you read the advanced features and specs, it's quite nice and I've built around 40 computers with MSI boards without a single problem ever. They're also the most heat resistant by far (as in not breaking when operating in a hot environment)
Samsung burners break a lot, especially burning lots of DVDs. I needed to do around 200 two different times and broke my lite-on the first time and my samsung the 2nd time. Now I have an ASUS and it's burned over 1000 total. It's also several seconds faster at burning the same image. The highest rated drive on all of Newegg is this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204 It's the 16 time customer award winner That's like 4 years straight against like 500 other models and it's $18.99 lol.
That PSU is nice but I think you could get away with a cheaper one and also you only need like a 450W supply. The higher they get to the top rating, the more efficient they get (to a certain point) so you wouldn't want to purposely use 50% of the available power at max load for example. The CORSAIR Builder Series CX500 V2 500W is very nice but to reduce failure rate (and room overheating) I'd go with at least a Bronze certified one, if not silver or gold but of course those cost A LOT. Considering price vs watts vs efficiency, the best bang for your buck might be the: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371031.
Oh and to answer your Q, almost all motherboards come with all necessary cabling like 2x SATA III cables for example and the case should come with all mounting equipment and I've never needed fan power cable extenders or anything. The PSU shouldn't need head type adapters either.

Need advice on a new mac pro.

Hi,
I need to purchase a mac pro for work in final cut & after effects primarily. Apparently there is some sort of money crisis going on so "money is not an issue" doesn´t hold for me right now. I intend on getting around 16GB (+2 GB with the machine) of ram from other sources and the same with hard drives, I´ve also heard that the current standard video card ATI HD 2600 is fine as I don´t intend on using the machine for anything other than work. My question is regarding processors. For FCS & after effects, what is the real world difference in performance I´m looking at between the standard 2.8 GHz, the 3.0 & the 3.2 GHz processors? The video footage i use primarily comes off an EX1. If its a must have to get the 3.2 then I can afford it but the price hike is quite steep and I can think of other things I could use the money for (1.400€ difference). Thanks

Hi Fran, first of all: The EX1 produces Prores-files, and editing hd video is heavy duty for any computer, considering long render times and compositing and layering. Then again, you do not need the fastest Mac pro out there to get your work done. The 2.8 with 8 GB of ram will suffice. Faster models only save you seconds in waiting for stuff to render. Start out with the standard ATi 2600. Make sure to get a couple of speedy 1TB WD Sata drives (WD10EADS), no need for expensive raids. That's a budget Mac pro that is as good as any.
After that you just WAIT because the real progress should be in software that's yet to come: Snow Leopard and the next FCS should speed up your work noticably, considering that the current FCS isn't too multiprocessor-savvy at all. Also, FCS isn't even fully cocoa, there's a lot of old code in there (i've been told). Lastly you can always invest in a better GPU, because that's where the extra performance is shifted to.
Message was edited by: Emile vande Griendt
Message was edited by: Emile vande Griendt

Need advice for a new graphics card

Hey this is my first time posting here. I've got a Power Mac G4 MDD 1.25GHz with the original ATI Radeon 9000 Pro. I just recently tried installing Final Cut Suite 2 and found out my card isn't good enough. I've tried doing some research into what I need to buy, but have been rather confused. Any recommendations? I need to run the newest Final Cut. Thanks!

Welcome to Apple Discussions!
Retail card options are limited to two ATI Radeon cards. The current 9800 has the most capable graphics processor unit (GPU) but only 128MB VRAM. The 9600 is a little cheaper and has 256MB VRAM to make up for a slower GPU. Still, both cards are more capable than the 9000.
I find the Mac specs on the ATI site confusing and sometimes outdated since being absorbed by AMD. Frankly, one of their resellers, Other World Computing, does a better job of showing current ATI specs than ATI. The two cards are listed on this page:
http://eshop.macsales.com/search/videocardsAGP

Need advice for a new monitor for Mac Centris 610

I have a Mac Centris 610. The Apple monitor(display unit) that originally came with it finally died. Would this old Mac be able to use a new flat-screen computer monitor? How can I find out what newer monitors wouldbe compatible with this old "war horse" computer. I use it for one application only, but it still works great for this. Many thanks to anyone who can rescue me from my predicament!

You can't use a new flat-screen display, because they have a widescreen aspect ratio (16:9) and that isn't supported by the Centris' onboard graphics. The Centris doesn't have PCI slots, so that eliminates that option. You could check thrift stores or computer recyclers in your area for an older display. You might have success using a Mac-to-VGA adapter having a set of adjustable DIP switches. It plugs into the Mac DB-15 display port on the back of the Centris and enables you to connect an older, multi-sync CRT display (4:3 aspect ratio) having a PC-style VGA connector.
From the specs posted at EveryMac.com for the Centris 610:
"By default, the Macintosh Centris 610 only supports a single display, but a second one can be supported with the addition of a compatible PDS or NuBus video card. With the standard VRAM, the system is capable of supporting 512x384 at 16-bit color and 640x480, 800x600 and 832x624 at 8-bit color. With 1 MB of VRAM installed, it can support 640x480, 800x600 and 832x624 at 16-bit color and 832x624, 1024x768 and 1152x870 at 8-bit color."

Big problems with my account; need advice setting up new one!

Hi - for the last few weeks I’ve been experiencing some weird things on my Mac! Events on iCal can’t be deleted, software keeps forgetting Registration codes so I have to reinput them everytime I launch the app, and other weird things!
I’ve spent many hours on the phone to MobileMe help, and AppleCare none of who have diagnosed the problem.
I’m guessing that some kind of Pref or Library file/folder has thrown a wobbly and is causing general corruption throughout my Account.
Someone suggested creating a new User Account and seeing if the problems do away; this I have done and certainly the iCal problem has disappeared. So, I’m planning on using this new Account from now on. Thing is (despite being logged in as an Admin) there are files from my ‘old’ account that is can’t open ‘cos it says I don‘t have sufficient permissions. Is there a quick/easy way to just allow all my old files to be open/available in my new Account?
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Wrong approach. Since the issue is specific to your original user account, you can proceed in two ways. One is to log into your new account, make a list of the preference files (plists) located in /username/Library/Preferences/, including any in the ByHost subfolder, log back into the original account, move everything on that other account's list from the original account's Preferences folder into a newly created folder on the Desktop, log out and back in, and see if the problem goes away. If so, you can copy the ones in the Desktop folder (one at time) back into /Preferences/, restart, and see if the problem returns. If so, you've identified the corrupt/conflicting one. Continue with all of them until isolating the bad ones. That'll save you the trouble of resetting preferences.
The second way is much more detailed and I'll not burden you with the steps unless the above doesn't fix the issue.

Easily switch between scratch disk locations?

I have a project which I need to edit and it's going to take up a lot of room as it's shot throughout the summer and will contain hours of footage. I already have a hard drive devoted to all of my current editing projects (lets call that Drive 1) however this new project will be so big it needs another drive entirely. I have installed a hard drive (Drive 2) into my Mac Pro just for this new project.
I know by going into FCP > System Settings I can designate a new scratch disk on Drive 2 however I have a question.
I want to upload this project to Drive 2 at various points throughout the summer but at the same time I still need to upload and access my other final cut pro projects and content on Drive 1.
How can I easily switch between the capture scratch disk locations and make sure that content is being uploaded and rendered in the right location? I want to make sure I do this right before I add any new content to Drive 2.
Hope this makes sense.

Thanks for your reply.
So if I want to upload, edit etc content to Drive 1, I just unselect all of the Drive 2 preferences in FCP > System Settings and vice versa Then when I want to use them again I just re-select them?

Using an Xserve AFP Share as a 'Scratch Disk'

Many thanks in advance for any advice anyone can give me.
I run a 100 client network at a media college where i work, and all of our students login to clients with Open Directory and their User Shared folder is shared via AFP.
Our students currently each have a portable firewire hard drive to store 'Final Cut Express' projects on. Long story short, they have to go, and we need a networked solution, effectively setting the Final Cut scratch disk settings to an AFP sharepoint.
Now on paper this SHOULD be possible. In Final Cut Express they only work with DV-PAL, which is around 30-35mbit/sec, we have a 1gbit/sec CAT6 network, and only a maximum of 12 students will be working on video at any one time. Our main storage XServe Intel server (2008 model) has 2 link aggregated 1gbit/sec ports effectively giving us 2gbit/sec. Our switches are not cheap unmanaged switches but proper rack mounted managed switches costing £4000/$6000 each.
Now as i said on paper this should be possible, but would it work in practice? I've tried a few tests with some test setups, and everything seems nice and fast so far, but of course reality is very different.
A lot of people will say that we need fibre networking and massive RAID arrays, but we simply cannot afford it. We're stuck with what we've got.
The best we could probably afford is an 'Xserve RAID Card' and then setup RAID 0 across our 3 SATA Apple Drive modules in our XServe, would that improve performance that much for FCE compared to the software RAID we currently have setup?
Is the whole idea ridiculous?
Thanks again for any help you can give me.

Going back to CS, I tested this on a Toshiba laptop. It worked, with about a 20% slowdown, IIRC. Could not find my benchmarks (probably still on that old Toshiba).
I agree with Chris - way too slow, and with rapid reads/writes, USB 2.0 devices are prone to errors, especially the dreaded Delayed Write Error. That can be death with image, or video editing.
Using eSATA is a much, much better solution, and I find that FW-800 works OK (though I have never needed to put the PS Scratch Disks on it), even doing intensive video editing.
Good luck,
hunt

Increasing Allowable Scratch Disk Space

Hi Gang
I was a bit surprised when I noticed the remaining Free Space of a new Scratch Disk Assigment
http://www.locationstudio.net/FreeSpace-2.jpg
So then I guess I need to increase the Allowable Space since I really have 900 Gigs?
http://www.locationstudio.net/FreeSpace-1.jpg
Thanx
Mike

Last one for today....
Deleting FCP Preferences:
Open a Finder window. Set the view mode to columns:
Click the house icon that has your name next to it.
Click the folder "Library" in the next column.
Find and click the folder "Preferences" in the next column.
Find and click the folder "Final Cut Pro User Data" in the next column.
Move the files "Final Cut Pro 6.0 Prefs", "Final Cut Pro Obj Cache" and "Final Cut Pro Prof Cache" to the Trash and empty it.
When you have a stable set of preference files, download [Preference Manager|http://www.digitalrebellion.com/pref_man.htm] to back them up. If you have further problems, the backup can be recalled and you can continue working.

New hard disk for HP Pavilion All-in-One MS228sc

I need to get af new hard disk drive for my HP Pavilion All-in-One MS228sc. I have great difficulties in getting in touch with HP denmark since my product is out of waranty.
My questions is if the PC can handle a disk larger than my current on on 500 GB. Further more I am not sure about other potential limits the PC could have ini regards to speed and other parameters on a new disk drive
This question was solved.
View Solution.

As your computer is out of warranty, please purchase a 500GB - 2TB 3.5" SATA2 or 3 hard drive from an online or local retailer. If the new drive is an AF (Advanced Format) drive, you may have issues using the HP Recovery Media you created or purchased.
If this is the case and you can still read the 25-digit Windows product key on the Microsoft COA affixed to your computer, you can install Windows 7 using this key. Please see "How to Install Windows 7 Without the Disc" for instructions on how to download Windows 7, create the installation media, and install Windows 7 using the 25-digit product key from the Microsoft COA on your computer. This method will not install any HP customizations or value-added software and you will have to manually install all needed drivers.
Links to Windows 7 SP1 can be found HERE and HERE. (Download the Windows 7)
Direct link to Windows 7 USB/DVD Download tool. (Use to create the media from the ISO)
If you have any further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Please click the White KUDOS "Thumbs Up" to show your appreciation
Frank
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Please click the "Accept As Solution" on my post, if my assistance has solved your issue. ------------V
This is a user supported forum. I am a volunteer and I don't work for HP.
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Cannot Uncheck CS3 Scratch DisK Selection Box

I'm running CS3 on a fairly recent 5 SATA hard drive XP machine. The drives are not raid arrays -- each drive partitioned into one or two partitions is seperate.
I presently have a 20GB Partition for my Photoshop Scratch Disk. The partition named "S" sits on a physical drive that does not contain Photoshop or my XP System Data.
I recently purchased a couple of 1TB drives. The new drives are faster then my present drives because of areal density. Therefor I've created a 20 GB partition on one of the new drives for a Photoshop Scratch Disk.
Finally here comes my question:
Going to Edit>Preferences>Performance I attempted to uncheck my old Scratch Disk as I no longer wanted it active. Photoshop will not allow me to do this. I can check & uncheck my new Scratch Disk. I can not boot into safe mode & attempt to uncheck the box as that terrible Flexnet Licensing does not allow Photoshop to run.
I can not reformat the "S" drive with Windows -- it appears Photoshop is preventing that operation.
Does anyone have a suggestion?
Thanks in advance!

"Just to cover the basics...you can't uncheck one scratch drive unless there's at least one other checked."
Oh No! -- I'm that STOOPID!
Freeagent -- thanks that was the problem. After activating my new scratch disk I could THEN UNCHECK my old one.
Thanks to both you & Michael for taking the time to help -- Best to both of you.

Need advice on my new Scratch disk

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