Need Advice on Purchasing RoboHelp

I'm considering purchasing RoboHelp, but I've also looked at
some less expensive alternatives like RoboAuthor. My main purpose
for this application would be to convert previously printed
technical manuals to an online format. Can anyone offer some
advise?

Hi pdecker. A lot depends on what you want to do with the
help. RoboHelp has a lot of functionality that is not available in
RoboAuthor. When you convert do you just want a plain old HTML or
do you want to use DHTML / Javascript? Do you just want an easy
single source file low in richness or do you want a series of files
that you can manipulate more or less any way you want. Maybe you
don't have the answers? Download a trial version and have a play
which will help you decide and post any questions you have here.
One word of advice though. Don't just think of what you want to do
now. Also think of what you'd like to do in the future otherwise
you may buy a tool that is fit for purpose in the short term
only.

Similar Messages

I need advice on purchasing a Macbook Pro

Hello!
I am seeking advice on purchasing my very first Mac (and notebook) very soon. I am a Graphic Design student and I'll primarily be using it for running the Adobe CS programs (photoshop, indesign etc). I don't really plan to do any gaming or major video rendering. Money is an issue here and I'll have to purchase the adobe software as well. I am looking at three options here:
13 inch Macbook Pro 2011 (2.3 GHz i5, $1,099)
15 inch Macbook Pro 2010 (Refurbished 2.4 GHz i5 $1,269)
15 inch Macbook Pro 2011 (Refurbished 2.0 GHz i7 $1,529)
The main concerns with the 13 inch MBP are the display size/resolution and the Integrated Graphics. Although I have a 22 inch external monitor at home, I am hoping the MBP's screen won't be an issue when I'm on campus or if I get a job. As for the Graphics, will it be sufficient enough for Motion Graphic programs such as Adobe After Effects or Apple Motion 5? If they aren't a problem, then I'll be leaning towards the 13 inch since I would also qualify for the $100 back to school promotion. As for the 15 inches, are the refurbished models the way to go? I'm a bit worried about purchasing a used MBP that's probably been used for around a year. If the 13 inch's screen size isn't sufficient and there are little to no problems with refurbs, then I might go with the 15 inch 2.4 GHz i5. Thanks for your time and input.

Elgato EyeTV registers the following issues on: http://snowleopard.wikidot.com/start
EyeTV Lite 1.3.2 (5247)
None.
EyeTV 2.5.3 (3313) Remote control problems. Using the play/pause and menu buttons when using EyeTV trigger Front Row and iTunes at the same time.
EyeTV 3.1.2 (5237) Some users are experiencing digital audio problems; refer to this page to get a beta preview of version 3.1.3
http://www.macintouch.com/specialreports/snowleopard/slcompat.html
says version 3.2 is already available and fully compatible. It would sound that the Wiki hasn't been updated to include those experienced with 3.2. Maybe you want to submit a wiki update when you get an Intel Mac. To confirm, Macintouch is not a typo:
http://www.elgato.com/elgato/na/mainmenu/support.en.html#Snow%20Leopard
It says version 3.2 is fully compatible. Version 3.1.3 which was a beta also mentioned on Macintouch is earlier than version 3.2. That's how they go about doing versions in the software world. So barring some unforseen bug, you should be good to go with EyeTV. Use both websites listed above to determine software compatibility. Sometimes one may be more current than the other. Apple has also made a current list of compatible printers and scanners here:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3669
Regardless of the compatibility, upgrading you should always make a couple backups ahead of time, in case of hidden issues with your machine. See my FAQ* on upgrading:
http://www.macmaps.com/upgradefaq.html
If you find you need a Leopard 10.5 compatible Intel Mac for your other software, purchase a used or refurbished Mac that was made prior to August 28, 2009 with the guidelines on my FAQ*:
http://www.macmaps.com/usedrefurbished.html
- * Links to my pages may give me compensation.
Message was edited by: a brody

I need advice after purchasing a MacBook Pro in the USA for use in the UK.

Hello all out there,
I bought a 13 inch MacBook Pro in the USA last week and brought it back with me to the UK. I had been given an Apple World Adapter kit by the gentleman in the apple store, however I realised today that it isn't for the MacBook Pro and is only for iPads, iphones and ipods. This means that despite paying around $40, I am stuck. I need advice as to how to charge the laptop in the UK now? Is there an adapter for this or can I use any ordinary USA to UK adapter and stick it to the one I have from the USA?
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Zainab

AFAIK, the World Adapter kit has a replacement PLUG for the power brick. What you need is just something that can go into your country's wall socket, as the power brick itself is universal and can work from 100-240 VAC, 50-60 Hz.
In other words, you ARE aware that the power brick has removable plugs on the AC end, right?

Need advice about purchasing a dryer

Our dryer went out and we need some information about buying a new dryer. What's this hoopla about dryers not coming with a power cord? We don't need a venting kit as our old dryer still has a perfectly good venting system, but I find it strange that dryers cost so much money and then they want you to pay a ridiculous amount for the cord and then want to charge you to have someone install the cord for it. Gee I wish I was an electrician at this point as I could do it myself but don't want to ruin a new item I would purchase. I can't spend no more then $400 total on this.
*******DISCLAIMER********
I am not an employee of BBY in any shape or form. All information presented in my replies or postings is my own opinion. It is up to you , the end user to determine the ultimate validity of any information presented on these forums.

Hey there hockey-
I’m by no means an appliance expert, but my understanding is that for safety, all dryers require a three plug power cord to make sure it’s adequately grounded. In addition, building codes require that venting kits be upgraded or we won’t install the unit.
I’d recommend talking to our appliance experts at your local Best Buy when you get an opportunity as they can better explain these details as well as find you the exact dryer you’re looking for!
Thanks!
Bill|Senior Social Media Specialist | Best Buy® Corporate
Private Message

Need Advice in Purchasing my first Apple

I will be purchasing an IMac this weekend, but am still a bit unsure on which one to go with. This will be my first apple computer and I've spent a good part of this month researching on which type would best suit my needs. It comes down to the 20" IMac or the 24" IMac. I would be upgrading either one to the 500 Gig hard drive, adding the apple care plan, and purchasing a 4 GB's worth of RAM from crucial.com (far cheaper than what apple sells it for). If I went with the 24", I would probably choose the lower end of the two, but upgrade to the 2.8. I will primarily be doing screenwriting, light gaming, and heavy use with programs like Final Cut Pro and Photoshop. But these forums have made me very wary of the 24" with all the problems people seem to be having with driver issues, color distortion, pixel issues, and etc..? I have not seen many of those issues in these forums with the 20" model. Both computers seem to contain nearly the same processing power, and I am wary of the 500 dollar price difference amongst the two, if the more expensive one is going to be a huge headache. What should I do?

One of the lovely aspects before buying a new computer is deliberating the configuration that suits your needs best. I have a MacBook Pro myself and for my job I can use the new iMac 24" 2.8 4GB 1TB HD. It is a dream machine. We buy an Apple care protection with every new mac machine that the company buys and although we never had to make use of it just the reassurance "in case" is worth the investment. Reading your post you are about to spent some big bucks this weekend and whilst you're at it I would advise you to go all the way with it. What I mean is when you want the extra RAM, go for the Apple sets. When something goes wrong, and one of the problems you mention should happen, are more likely to get fixed quickly cause the knowledge is available and stand-by regarding Apple hardware. Third party hardware has it's own architecture that needs specific knowledge and insight allowing a swift and effective repair / trouble shooting solution. So whenever a problem occurs your return on investment may be much more worthwhile with regards to the money you saved on the purchasing of your machine and it's configuration.
The 20" is fine for FCP and other graphical programs, the 24" is "really neat".
Apple does some pretty good factory "pimping" whenever required

Needs advice in purchasing a mbp

I'm looking into buying a MBP 13'; this will be my first mac purchase. I'm a college student just looking for portability and performance. I won't be doing anything crazy like making movies or doing any hardcore photoshopping other than on occasion. I really have no clue which to choose, from the i5 or i7 or in choosing which ram or hard drive. From everything that I've read up on, the ideal choice would of course be choosing the i7 and choosing 8gb of ram and the 512gb ssd. But that would be burning holes in my pockets for this college student. Is there really a big difference between 4g and 8gb of ram? What about serial ata drive and ssd? Would it be better to purchase the 4gb and a standard hard drive it comes with and upgrading those later by myself?

Get the standard i5 model. That will be fine. Upgrade it to 8 GB of RAM yourself for $ 60. You will need a small screwdriver and 5 minutes of your time.

Need advice on purchasing an external hard drive for video editing

Hi,
I looking for advice on which external hard drive to get. The main purpose for the hard drive will be storing video files on for use with Final Cut Pro. I have the 12 inch powerbook G4 so I plan to use the FireWire (400) port to connect the drive. I'm interested in getting comment from others who use their external hard drives for video editing.
Thanks!

Firstly your decision to use FireWire is a good one, as not only will it free up the USB it performs much better on sustained transfers.
That said you're still limited by the FireWire interface, so opt for a drive with a big cache (16MB would be good) and fast spindle speed (7200rpm+).
Some of the newer enclosures are compatible with SATA drives. While these are easier to install and theoretically will perform better, I'm not sure that the performance would justify the extra cost.
Matt

Need advice on purchasing an external hard drive

Greetings, oh wise Apple users. It has been suggested that I purchase an external hard drive to store my iDVD projects on. Can anyone give me a checklist of what to look for? My Mac is a G4 flat panel with 800 MHz and 512 MB. I'm currently using OS X (10.2.8) but am upgrading to 10.4 soon. Many thanks in advance for your help.

Firewire and an 'Oxford' chipset are a must for Macs with USB1.1 like yours. Here's some examples:http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/firewire/
Personally I'd go for one with a built in USB and Firewire hub as I'm always running out of ports (like the mini stack V2).
If you think an new Intel iMac or MacBook Pro could feature in your computer line up in the next year so, go for one with FW800.
mrtotes

Urgently needed advice on purchasing an iPhone 4

Hi, shortly I will be going to the Middle East for a while and planning to buy an iPhone 4, please can you confirm I will still be able to use this product when I return to the UK (return date currently unknown).
Can you also confirm I will be able to change the device language to English, without any part of it staying in a foreign language?
Thank you in advance; I look forward to hearing from you.

This should tell you where the iphone is sold unlocked:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1937
You would need to buy an iphone that is officially unlocked in order for it to work in the U.K. when you return.
Also if you buy outside of the U.K. your warranty will not be good in the U.K.

Need advice on Wireless Router purchase.

I need some quick advice on purchase of a wireless router. I will be also needing to use a network switch to increase the available # of wired ports, as we currently have four wired devices (3 computers, one newish iMac and two older Macs, and a blue ray player, and we will be adding a Wi console to the wired network soon too). The wireless is mostly for a year old laptop. We are currently using a 5 year old at least Linksys wired router. Security is not an issue as far as others sneaking in to the network, I think, as my nearest neighbor is maybe a mile away (pretty rural here).
Would it be best to buy an Airport Extreme base station, or can I do better, and/or save some money with another router?
Thanks

I will likely connect our printers either via an ethernet cable or via USB.
For reference, the AirPort Extreme can share a printer connected to it by USB. It can also work with printers attached to one of its Ethernet ports. However, for the latter, the printer would need to be network-ready (meaning it has a built-in feature for sharing.)
As for 2.4 and 5 GHz radio bands, I don't know the difference.
The most important thing about bands is how they compare on speed vs. distance. The higher the frequency, the higher the potential speed, but at the cost of distance ... and vice versa for the lower frequency band.
Using the AirPort Extreme as an example, with a wireless client (capable of accessing either band), it will experience the best speed-related performance close (within the same room) on the 5 GHz but will most likely only connect on the 2.4 GHz band when in another room.
Also, I am concerned about firewall protection, from pinging or whatever, but I lack technical knowledge of it. I essentially would like our home network to be secure from incoming pings or attacks.
The AirPorts are very easy to set up. They pretty much run right out of the box. They offer very good security but they are not "commercial-grade" ... meaning they offer only a certain level of protection. However; note that increased protection typically comes with more complexity and maybe more difficult to configure.

Need advice on video software.

Need advice on video software.
I currently use adobe elements 3 and have done so for a few years now with no problems. my os is XP and my system is a couple of years old, but we do have a brand new win7 machine in the house.
I am currently look at Cyberlink PowerDirector 8 Ultra OR Adobe Premiere Elements 8. Reviews for both softwares seem very good BUT, when I dig deeper into user reviews instead of editor reviews do I find problems.
Major problems with program crashing all over the place, at start up etc, and it is still not getting along with any win7 machine? Major problems with drivers. Honestly, I do not want to have to jump through dozens of hoops to get any software to run. After I pay for it, it should run, period.
Has anyone else here used both softwares and can you give an honest opinion of each?
I am also asking these same questions on the cyberlink site.
I would like to upgrade my video software to take advantage of the new features that are coming out but I really don't want a big headache trying to run one or the other. To be fair, when I bought adobe elements 3 I had also bought pinnacle, which has gathered dust since my first week with it, which is why elements was purchased. That was money wasted and I do not wish to repeat this. I would like to go with Premiere Elements 8 but remain very unsure.

If your newer machine is Win7 64-bit, it might be worth waiting for SP-1 to be issued, and then hope that 64-bit drivers are fully included. The 64-bit drivers now seem t be an issue at this point, and that will affect any NLE program.
Also, and regardless of which particular program you choose, optimizing your computer, the OS, the hardware, and the resources management, will go a very long way to insuring success. Few programs can tax a computer, as an NLE can - any NLE. Video and Audio editing will stress your system, like almost nothing else can, except for heavy-duty CAD, or 3D work, though those are usually done only on specialized, optimized computers, designed just for those applications.
Not the specific advice that you seek, but it's the best that I can do.
Good luck,
Hunt

Major Issues with installing 4tb internal. Really need advice please

In the process of a long needed upgrade to my 2010 Mac Pro Quad core 2.8 and have run into a serious headache that I really need advice on so I can get back to work. I've already spent 2 days dealing with all of this...
Just did a new SSD install and Migration which went fine but I'm also updating the rest of the internal drives. My main (non boot) drive was being upgraded from a Seagate Barracuda 3tb to a 4th Deskstar NAS (it was showing as compatible with my desktop, see links below). My 3tb ran fine for years but now due to it being heavily used I want to switch to a new drive and I can also use a bit more space.
The issue I'm running into is that initially on boot, my system was telling me it couldn't recognize the disk and it wasn't even showing up in Disk Utility. I had to purchase a SATA USB 3 kit to attach it as an external to get it to show which worked without problem. With the USB kit I was then able to partition it (GUID, Mac OS extended journaled) and format it properly. After reinserting the drive into my tower as an internal it failed to show again. After a few attempts of restarts and trying various bays it popped up but showed as a non formatted drive and I was told again that the system didn't recognise it. I was then given the option to initialise and was then actually able to then format and partition it though Disk Utility while it was installed as an internal.
Figured that was problem solved but when I went to check the drive and getting ready to transfer files over I noticed that Disk Utility was only allowing the First Aid and Partition options but not Erase, RAID, Restore which I'd never seen before. I then also noticed that none of the drive connection info was in the same format nor will it even provide drive bay info, connection info or read/write status (See screen shots). This is what I can't figure out and really need to clarify before I put full trust into using this drive.
Any info would be greatly appreciated...
Deskstar 4tb internal info which is installed in Bay 2
3tb Seagate which I trying to retire and transfer from.
Here are the weblinks to the Deskstar 4tb drive and the compatibility list but I support isn't allowing me to add direct links so add the www. before hand.
(Drive - eshop.macsales.com/item/HGST/0S03664/) (compatibility list - eshop.macsales.com/Descriptions/specs/Framework.cfm?page=macpromid2010.html).

What OSX version?
Disk Utility in later versions of ML and I think Mavericks have problems formatting with 4 TB internal drives.
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1661024
http://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/112266/why-doesnt-my-mac-pro-see-my-new -4tb-sata-drive

Syncing iPod to new user account-need advice

Hey All! I set up a new user account for my friend on my imac, so he will want to sync his iPod Touch to iTunes, iPhoto, iCal, etc. in his new user account. I know there are plenty of freeware and shareware apps to get his music from the iPod into iTunes, but need advice concerning everything else oh his iPod.
I know I'll first get that pop up window that says his iPod is synced to another computer, and that I use "cancel" rather than "sync and erase". After doing that, I guess I use one of the shareware apps to get the music transferred over.
Now, after that, if I do a regular sync, will iTunes transfer his apps that are on the iPod?
Do I need to open iPhoto and download the photos on his iPod into iPhotot before doing a sync?
What about text messages? Will they remain in tact?
I don't think he uses the calendar on his iPod so no worries there....
What about Playlists that he has on the iPod? Will just the music transfer with the shareware apps or playlists also?
Will Notes be saved?
Thanks for your help. Don't wanna screw up his iPod by setting up this user account for him.

Apps are tied to the ID I assume the new account is just on the iMac and not a new iTunes account?
Yes, you can import photos into iPhoto the same as you would off any camera.
You would need to transfer purchased content (like apps). You can't do that via sync as it's a new computer and all content will be erased as you are aware.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1848
What happened to your friends computer? Was there no backup?

Ready to take it one higher ...need advice on best way to get more audio in

Nearly ready to upgrade to LP7...need advice on more gear.
Longtime Logic user, my old rig running with an Audiowerk 8 card (dont laugh too hard please, its worked great for years! ).
Now, after purchasing a MBP and LE7 ... how best to upgrade even further, to be able to record say 4-8 tracks (live instrument) at a time, into the optical or Firewire ports. I have an external 750Gb FW drive.
Also have a Mackie 16 chnl mixer and hoping to find a way to send the Master stereo pair (or maybe even track inserts) from the Mackie to the optical or FW input of my MBP. But how to do this ? Im guessing there's a box or gizmo somewhere that would be perfect.
Unfortunately, all of the boxes and gizmos Ive looked at so far seem to duplicate functions I already have, esp mic preamps (dont need any more of those !). I prefer 19" rackmount devices as they work well with portability, and fit into my SKB rig easily.
TIA

Also have a Mackie 16 chnl mixer and hoping to find a way to send the
Master stereo pair (or maybe even track inserts) from the Mackie to the
optical or FW input of my MBP. But how to do this ? Im guessing there's
a box or gizmo somewhere that would be perfect.
if you really want to use the pre's on your mackie, and it has multiple bus/aux outputs which I presume it does, then you can easily set up a device such as the 828 to take all your input channels from the mackie, and then to run a bunch of return pairs back out to it.
depending on your budget there are prob a few others for you to look at. RME and metric halo always get rave reviews from users, but are pricier. also the focusrite sapphire might be worth a look, as well as the apogee ensemble.
also I just noticed you are using logic express, not pro. so there may be some limitations on the number of simultaneous inputs and outputs that I'm unaware of.

Need advice on a proof printer

Hello. So glad I found this site!
I'm currently a print graphic designer and starting a home based business integrating my print design knowledge with newly acquired web design skills to offer a complete package.
I am working on an HP computer, as I cannot afford the Mac I want now. I have all of the Adobe software for PC already, but need advice for a printer.
The machines I work on now are like $18k - 25k color lasers, and clearly that is not in my budget. I'm a little lost as to what to look for in a printer that can handle color proofs of my artwork. I create a lot of raster images in PS, but logo design is one of my focuses, so vector output is essential. I almost always create outlines of fonts for the final press ready file, so I'm not so worried about fonts, but color matching is important.
I've been reading about Postscript and PCL, but am still very confused. I'm also a little confused as to what a rip does or if I need one. We use one at my shop, and I know how to use it, but it lives on the server and was explained that it was only necessary for networking the printers.
I am planning to outsource all of my final printing, but I need a printer for proofing. I've been looking at inkjets for affordability reasons, but now I'm not sure if I need a color laser.
Help!!

Dear VectorGirly, I currently have an OKI Postscript c9800 printer. I use postscript printers because I calibrate and use color profiles to get the closest colour match to the outsourced commercial print that I can. I know this is more than you budgeted for, but it really depends what you end up focusing on. (ie web or print). I focus more on print, hence my printer has to proof postscript correctly for me. I am PC based but my files print to both PC and Mac platforms.
Regarding logos and colors ... firstly, my monitor is calibrated with a Pantone Huey. I use matching color profiles in all my design programs: Indesign, Illustrator, Photoshop. My print PDFs include the color profiles. When I email or post proofs of logos or corporate stationery to clients I make sure they understand that colors will look different on various monitors because they are not calibrated for print and are RGB or color prism based rather than CMYK for print. Even if you choose a Pantone color, unless everything is calibrated and with color profiles, it's unlikely that you will get the same color on your screen, let alone on the client's screen. And if the client is wanting a color that looks good on their screen, it's even harder. I always recommend they look at the proof colours on various screens including friends so they can understand how it changes according to monitors.
Regarding PCL and Postscript: When I purchased my OKI (and my former Fuji Xerox pscript), I sent an existing print PDF (that had gone to commercial print previously) to the head office and asked them to do printouts of all the printers I was interested in. All the printers based as PCL were very inaccurate color. The two with postscript took my PDF and printed correctly and were very close to the final printed output. As I am pedantic on colour (colour in Australian spelling), I had to choose the high end postcript laser. Having said that, I am also very interested in the Fuji Xerox Phaser 8500 which is postscript and solid ink (great for the environment and people with allergies and low running costs - much better than laser) - but I need the A3 and banner printing option and they haven't made one for that size yet. I am hoping the new release may offer a bigger size paper. I have a very high allergy level and have to have the window open and a mask on when changing toners and printing, hence my interest in the solid ink for the future.
I always download my fonts through the print PDF to the printer - I never use printer inbuilt fonts. This is so I know that WYSIWYG (what you see is what you get) when I print commercially as they also download/use the embedded PDF fonts.
Also, somewhere down the line you may find yourself forced to choose between focusing on web and print.
I recommend you choose what you love best.

Need Advice on Purchasing RoboHelp

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