NEED HELP BUYING NEW TV

OK GOING TODAY TO BEST BUY FOR A TV! AFTER DAYS AND NIGHTS OF ON THE INTERNET IV COME UP WITH LG 47 LE8500 (LED) now i find its only in warehouse UMM! !! I NEED TO KNOW IF ANYONE WAS TO BUY A 47 INCH TV ANY ONE YOU WANT (MUST BE 46,47 INCH) what one would YOU buy ?
Solved!
Go to Solution.

I am a fan of the Sharp Aquos. I own a 46" (LC46D64U) bought in December 2007 and a 52" (LC52D64U) bought in December 2008. When I brought the 52" home, as a gift to my wife, she looked at it, smiled at me and said, "You know, they make a 65" in that moldel."
Even though this line is three years old, they are great even today. I look forward to Best Buy selling me the Sharp Quattorn.
Gary | It's true; I am a Best Buy Fan Boy! @GaryFunk PrivateMessage

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Need help buying new hard drive

I have a macbook that needs a new hard drive and need help knowing what hard drives to buy that will be compatible with it. It is a macbook pro 17inch model no: A1297.
Any help would be appreciated, Thanks

Any 2.5" diameter, 9.5mm thick SATA drive will be compatible. Currently they come up to 1.5 TB in capacity. I have a 1 TB Seagate SSHD (hybrid) drive installed in my primary MBP. The cost is a modest premium over a conventional HDD of the same capacity. Boot and shutdown times are significantly faster when compared to a conventional HDD, I can recommend this as an option.
If the bank account permits, an SSD will produce the overall maximum performance gains. Boot, shutdown and resource hungry applications will be noticeably faster. Casualyll use such as e-mails and text editing will produce no meaningful performance differences compared to a conventional HDD.
I am of the opinion that the cost premium is still too high for the benefits that they afford. Other have different views.
Ciao.

Need Help Buying New Battery...

Hello, after three years of consistent portable use, I believe it's time to replace my battery--- which now only gets about 15-20 minutes off a full charge.
Obviously I'd like to avoid paying $140 for a new battery from Apple. I'd like some advice on what to look for when buying a 'new' battery from a third party (like on ebay).
I'm using a 15" aluminum powerbook g4.
A few things I'm concerned about.
1. How do I know the battery was produced after the recall? One auction says this: "This battery was produced after the Apple Battery Recall The serial number is: 6N638LN4THUC." Is that legitimate? Can you tell from the serial number? Correct me if I'm wrong, but if I buy a recallable battery from a third party I'm not eligible for a replacement through Apple.
2. If the battery is un-used, i.e. "new" but has been sitting on a shelf for a year, will it's charge-life be effected? I've heard that all lith-ion batteries deteriorate whether they're in use or not.
3. Is there anything else I should be weary of when buying a battery from a third-party?
thanks!

1) If the auction says it's AFTER the recall, and you don't trust them, ask the seller if they will send you a photo of the serial number. If they're a reputable/honest seller, they'll be glad to do so. Then, you can look up the serial number to confirm whether or not it falls under the recall at: [https://support.apple.com/ibook_powerbook/batteryexchange>
**if you get a recalled battery, you are allowed up to three battery replacements for your PowerBook, regardless if it's under warranty or not. You have to provide them with the serial no. of your PowerBook (for tracking purposes), and then with your machine registered, you can send up to three "bad" batteries and get three new ones in return. (So, if you buy your battery on eBay, or wherever you get it, you can do three maximum... Apple doesn't record battery serial numbers--to my knowledge--and tie them to specific PowerBooks, or owner's machines for that matter).
2) If a battery is unused, the charge life won't necessarily be affected, depending on how long it's been on the shelf. Usually, one year won't affect it. After that, it must be charged again before re-storage. You can find out about that process here: [http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html]
3) When buying a battery from a third party on eBay (whether it's Apple OEM or not, but compatible), make sure they have a return policy. Also check their feedback. That's usually a good sign. I don't recommend buying third-party, non Apple OEM, batteries in the first place. The only one I'd recommend is the "NuPowr" line. But if you do buy third-party batteries that aren't used and are new Mac compatible ones... kind of like how you can buy third-party batteries for you camcorder or digital camera or cell phone, but they're not made by the OEM but are still brand new ...make sure you buy it from a reputable company or, if on eBay, a reputable "Power Seller."
And just for some info, you can read my posting here (though for 12-inch PowerBooks, gets across the same idea) for anyone looking for a battery replacement:
http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=5955722
Message was edited by: Pismo 900
The italicized section above was done to separate/emphasize the remark, but is not a direct quote from Apple or such.

I need help buying iPhoto photo album.

I need help buying iPhoto photo album. iPhoto was built in to my iMac. I am supposed to be able to make picture albums using my photos. It won't let me purchase the photo album i just made. I can't find any kind of help anywhere. Please help

If you have iPhoto '08 or older it is no longer supported for print products
If you have iPhoto '09 or '11 reboot, launch iphoto and
Before ordering your book preview it using this method - http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1040 - and save the resulting PDF for reference - the delivered book will match it.
If the preview s good and you can not order boot into safe mode, preview again and order
LN

I need help getting new authorization codes for digital copies

I need help getting new authorization codes for digital copies of movies. Can someone help me out?

There's a lot of results in Google when you search for this but unfortunately refreshing the page doesn't seem to generate a different code anymore. Mine also says already redeemed

Need help opening new software application Adobe Elements 12 on my new MAC. HELP?

Need help opening new software application Adobe Elements 12 on my new MAC. HELP?

Is it installed? If so, go to Applications and choose either Adobe Elements 12 Organizer, or Adobe Photoshop Elements 12>Support Files>Photoshop Elements Editor.

HT1199 I downloaded Lion and now can't open pages or keynote. Do I need to buy new apps?

I downloaded Lion and now can't open pages or keynote. Do I need to buy new apps?

No, you need to update them...
SYSTEM PREFERENCES > SOFTWARE UPDATES..
or...
Support Downloads
http://support.apple.com/downloads/

Need help getting new printer hp deskjet 3520 setup for eprint and wireless

need help getting new printer hp deskjet 23520 stup for eprint and wireless

Hi Pastorlee7,
I see that you're having problems setting up your printer. I would take a look at the document below.
Hp deskjet 3520
Let me know how it goes.

Can I upgrade from CS5 InDesign to CS6 InDesign, or do I need to buy new software?

Can I upgrade from CS5 InDesign to CS6 InDesign, or do I need to buy new software?

vividi wrote:
Adobe say they will continue to offer upgrades for Indesign CS6 for the foreseeable future.
Regards
Vividi
Of this I'm positive: There will be no upgrades for InDesign CS6 (except if there were a security issue). Adobe never adds updates to an earlier version. The current version is InDesign CC. InDesign CS6 will always be as it is now.
What you may have read is that Adobe says it will keep selling InDesign CS6 for the forseeable future.

I have a new iMac. Can I install my iWork from my Snow Leopard set and upgrade it, or will I need to buy new iWork?

I have a new iMac. Can I install my iWork from my Snow Leopard set and upgrade it or will I need to buy new iWork? If so why?

cherylfrommiami wrote:
I paid for the cd set when my last computer needed an upgrade. I just want to use iWork on my new computer OSX10.8
As Niel states you can use your current iWorks.
If you want the latest version you will need to purchase the componets in the Mac App Store.

Do I need to buy new programs for osx lion?

Do I need to buy new programs for osx lion?

First you need to make sure you have a supported machine, and all the current updates (Core 2 Duo, i3/5/7 and 10.6.8.)
If you are using Microsoft Office 2004/8, then you will need to buy Office 2011. If you are using older versions of Adobe Photoshop before CS3 that are PPC only, then you will need to buy a newer Adobe CS.
If you are running iWork 08, it will work, but there will be no support for full screen unless you have 09 version. If you use Apple software like Final Cut or Logic Studio, you will also need the latest versions to use full screen support.
Basically, if you have any software installed that is more than 2 years old, you need to check if it is Intel, PPC or Universal. Because anthing that is listed as PPC will not work at all. And most Apple apps older than 2 years do not have any support for the new Full Screen or Versions features.
If you want to see if you have any PPC apps that are not supported at all, simply click the Apple icon at the top, click about this Mac, then click more info. System Profiler will open, on the left side click on "Applications" and you will see a list of every installed app. The far right column will tell you KIND, Intel, Universal or PPC. Anything in the list that says PPC will not work after installing Lion.

Need help buying a new computer

Ok so I desperately need a new computer. my current one is 6 years old and is dying on me. What I'm looking for is something that will be able to run games like Knights of the Old Republic, The Sims 2, and eventually Star Wars: The Old Republic once it is released next spring. I don't want something that would be overkill for these games, but enough so that they don't lag and don't look awful. And I'm fine with buying a graphics card separately if it would be cheaper then buying some epic pc. My price range is $800-$1100, preferably $800 ^^; $1100 is like last resort no other option.
so any help would be greatly appreciated
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Asus Essentio Desktop / Intel® Core™ i5 Processor / 8GB Memory
Model: CM5675-11 | SKU: 1308316
This desktop features a double-layer DVD±RW/CD-RW drive for creating customized CDs and DVDs and a 16-in-1 media reader for storing or transferring important documents, favorite songs and special photos. The NVIDIA GT240 graphics features 1GB video memory for lush images.Windows 7 Home Premium preloaded Which Windows 7 edition is best for you? Compare.Learn more about Intel® processors. Information provided by Intel.
3 Read reviews (4)
Sale: $849.99
Hey! You don't need a powerhouse, but as long as you have such a nice budget, you might as well get something nice. This is my personal recommendation based on specs, hardware and branding. Also, the case doesn't try to be 'too cool', it's a standard, functional case with a little better construction. No video upgrade needed. (This is tower only, if you need a monitor, that's a whole different cup of tea).
I am a Bestbuy employee who volunteers on these boards on my own time. I am not paid for posting here, and you should understand that my opinions are exactly that - opinions. I do not represent Bestbuy in any way.
: Open Mailbox

[Athlon64] Noob needs help optimizing new system

Sorry to post yet another thread, but I've been lurking for the past few days and I only get bits and pieces of what I need. I'm pretty clueless about this stuff as it's my first home-built system
See my sig for system info...
I'm needing help with bios settings. The pertinent stuff (I think - hopefully I got it all down):
CELL MENU
CPU Clock speed: 2200
DDR Memory Freq: 100.0 MHz
High performance mode: Manual
Cool n quiet: Disable
HT Freq: 800 MHz
Dynamic overclocking: Disable
Adjust CPU Ratio: Auto
AGP Freq: By Default
HT Voltage: Auto
Mem voltage: Auto
CPU voltage: Auto
AGP Voltage: Auto
Spread sectrum: Disable
DRAM
DRAM Clock Mode: Manual
Mem clock value: DDR200
CAS Latency: SPD
Burst Length: 8 Beat
Bank Interleaving: Auto
Active to CMD (Trcd): SPD
Active to precharge (Tras): SPD
Precharge to active (Tvp): SPD
DRAM IT Timing: Disable
ADVANCED CHIPSET FEATURES
AGP Mode: Auto (this is "greyed out")
AGP Fast write: Enabled
AGP Aperture size: 128
VLink 8X supported: Enabled
My questions mainly concern memory. I bought all this stuff at the Tiger Direct outlet store in Naperville, Illinois. I had intended to buy the K8T Neo-FSR (754 pin), but they were supposedly out of the 754 pin 3400+, and this board/CPU combo had a $100 rebate. Yeah, it's one of those deals with the odd 939 pin 3400+ that everyone has been talking about.
In any case, I already had the Corsair CMX512-3200C2PT picked out, as Corsair said it was compatible with the board. I wasn't aware of the MSI compitibility chart until I came here later that night. I STILL can't find that chart off of the MSI web site.
Anyway, I got it all hooked up and got the standard 4 red LEDs. Not knowing what to do, I took it back to Tiger Direct and the tech played around with it until he stuck an el-cheapo stick (Corsair VS512MB400) in there and it worked. But it only works in slot 2. So here I am.
I started to run memtest86, but it took too long to run and I aborted it for now. For what it's worth, it said the RAM CAS value is 2.5-2-2-5. I don't know what the hell that means, but I know it's important.
My questions:
1. I assume I need manually to set my memory clock value to DDR400?
2. Now that I can get the thing to post, is there any chance I could get the "good" Corsair memory to work by setting the correct latency/CAS values? Again, I don't know what I'm talking about, so forgive my ignorance. What I'm wondering is if I can set everything to what Corsair recommends while I have the cheap memory in there and then replace it with the good stuff?
3. With this board, am I better off with double-sided or single-sided sticks? As I said, I went into the store intending to buy the Neo 754-pin board, but they were out of the Athlon 3400+ in 754 and only had the 939 pin.
4. Anything else in my bios settings that stand out and need to be addressed? I want to make sure everything is optimized.
EDIT: I almost forgot: My CPU temp is runing around 42-49 degrees. Am I in the danger zone? I just bought a generic cooler for now and intend to get a Thermalright XP-120, but I can't find it locally, so it will have to wait.
AND FINALLY...
I don't know if this is related to anything above, but I have been having a hell of a time getting the 6600GT to run DirectX9+ games. The latest drivers for Windows 98SE was 66.94. Yes, XP will be installed soon, but for now... It was failing on dxdiag test for Direct3d 9 and also the third DirectDraw test. I was about to give up and take it back when I discovered that a new beta driver came out today (71.84). I installed it and it passed all of the dxdiag tests. I thought I was in hawg-heaven, but when I run Call of Duty (the only DX9 game I have besides HL2), it slows to an absolute clawl. The level starts out somewhat normal at first, but quickly slows down to the point that performance can only be measured in seconds per frame! All of the patches 1.5 and 1.51 for UO have been installed, but that shouldn't make a bit of difference.
If I don't get my CoD fix soon I'm gonna reinstall that Geforce3.
Thanks much and sorry again for such a long post.

Thanks everyone for the recent replies, but I started this thread almost a month ago (March 3rd), and much has changed since then.
New PSU (see sig).
Replaced the PNY Geforce6600GT with a eVGA 6800
Added another stick of the Corsair Value Select 512 RAM. I didn't even bother trying to get the "primo" CMX stick to work. I just returned it.
Went from Windows 98SE to XP Home.
The PSU did nothing for me at all, but I suppose it's better to have some headroom in the amperage.
The biggest performance booster was the additional 512MB of RAM. It wouldn't have done me any good in 98SE, but I was shocked at how much it helps XP. Quitting a game is almost instant now, where before it would take a good two minutes or so for XP to recover itself.
As for games running slow, the 6800 fixed it right up. CoD absolutely screams now, as does everything else I've thrown at it (HL2, Doom 3, Far Cry). I think the 6600GT was just bad or there is a serious driver problem with the 6600GT's. Went from 3DMark03 score of around 5000 (when it didn't crash) to above 9000 now. And this was all before adding the additional RAM.
Oh yeah, I bought a 74GB Raptor. No RAID for now though. So far I'm not real impressed with the performance. I'm running off of the VIA controller, since my board doesn't have the Promise controller. I don't see much improvement in loading times as compared to the 40GB 7200rpm Maxtor I have running on IDE1. The only time it beats the pants off the Maxtor is defragging. But there's only so much entertainment value in that. The Sandra "file system benchmark" gave me 57 MB/s, which seems pathetic, but I've read some posts here where others are getting an identical rate.
And I'm not too happy to discover, too late, that my overclocking capabilities are severely limited while using SATA.
I do have one more question for now:
When I installed the second 512MB stick, I originally had both sticks in slot 1 and 2. I ran Sandra's memory bandwidth benchmark and got a much lower score than with the single stick (around 3500 MB/s). WHen I had the sticks in 1 and 3, it jumped up to close to 6000 MB/s. Why is that? Just curious.

Will I need to buy new SIM card for iPhone 4?

Will I need to buy a new "micro-sim" for the iPhone 4, or is a sim card already included?

Thank you

Need help with new itouch

Please bare with me, while I 'try' to explain.
I have my itunes account linked to my iphone and macbook. I have bought my daughter an itouch for Xmas. Now I have set up a seperate itunes account for her on my other Windows laptop. So she is able to purchase apps without them going and clogging up my itunes... NOW this is the bit i need help with...
How can i transfer any music i have on my itunes to her itunes? and vice versa?
Thanks in advance

Right, I have now gone down the line of setting up a new user on my macbook, her own ID and then with the help of Mr google, I followed the steps of sharing my music, by moving my itunes media folder to a shared folder.
Now i got my music on her itunes libary but when i did a test download of an app, it wont show in the library. I have even done the 'transfer purchases'. and its still not showing. I am slowing loosing the will to live with it! I really need help.

NEED HELP BUYING NEW TV

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