Need help i would love some answers

I have been on BlackBerry for years I recently purchased the z10 it's been a few months ago I ask BLACKBERRY when they are going to release Crime Inc (it's a game) an the only thing they say is its in the works. Well it would be nice to know about when. Thanks a BlackBerry owner for life

Nothing from me. I don know when apps will be released, or any insider knowledge.
If Uken were asking, I'd encourage them to register here at this forum and get support on the slow approval issue from the AppWorld developement advisors
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In the market for a new computer would love some feedback

Ok so I have a dilemma,
First problem is I can't decide between a laptop and a desktop if I went the laptop route I would go with the Asus N53qm
Asus N53 Specs
Its got i7 720qm, some sites have it with 740qm, ddr3 memory, 425m cuda video card,
Id upgrade the ram to at least 8gb or ram maybe upgrade more down the road.... Id be editing video off esata or usb 3.0
I see the advantage of having a laptop being able to work on the road, taking it to my bed....
Id plug it into an external monitor/mouse, keyboard when at my desk.
My other option I would be a desktop
Specs would be,
x58 motherboard, havnt decided which one yet, theres a lot that seem to all have the same features, eg. msi, asus, gigabyte.
Again ddr3 memory I notices 2000 was not much more than 1333, so yea as much ram as I want down the road....
GTX 470
850 watt corsair
Intel Core i7 950
Thermaltake A60 Case
Again most of my projects would most likely be through esata or usb 3.0 not sure which is better...
Oh and I would be editing HD Video from a flash based camcorder, Cannon HSF 10 to be specific, so its .mts avchd
Anyways, how much of a performance increase would I get from the desktop over the laptop?
I notice a lot of people overclock, is that really necessary, isnt an i7 pretty fast stock?
Thanks and please let me know your thoughts, advice changes to my specs...

Would love some feedack from the experts on this config available at Tiger direct for about $1,000
My Goal: to edit AVCHD footage using CS5....looking at the specs below specifically the processor, the video card and the RAM..what do you think?
( I currently have CS3 on an HP Quad Core 2.4Ghz w/ 8GB RAM which is great for SD, but I realize that when upgrading to CS5 and editing my Sony HDR-500v AVCHD footage I'l need much more power) Thanks!!
Lenova Brand PC
Specifications
Condition:
New
Lifestyle:
Entertainment
Operating Systems:
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-Bit
Platform:
PC
Orientations Allowed:
Vertical
Colors:
Black
Red
PS/2 Connectors:
1 - Mouse
1 - Keyboard
USB Ports (Total):
8
Audio Out Jacks:
3
1 - Headphone
Line In Jacks:
1
Microphone Jacks:
2
VGA Ports:
1
HDMI Ports:
1
S-Video Connectors:
1
S/PDIF Connectors:
1
Processor Brand:
Intel
Processor Class:
Core i7
Processor Number:
860
Processor Speed:
2.80GHz
Processor Interface:
Socket 1156
Processors Supported:
1
Processors Onboard:
1
Memory Type:
DDR3
Total Memory:
8.0GB
Memory Speed:
1066MHz
Hard Drives Included:
1
Hard Drive Types:
Hard Disk Drive
Interface:
SATA
Capacity:
1TB
Speed:
7,200RPM
Optical Drives Included:
1
Optical Drive Type:
DVD±R/RW
Optical Drive Class:
DVDRW
Supplemental Media Type:
Card Reader
Capacity:
16-in-1
Audio Description:
Integrated Audio
Channels:
5.1 channel Surround Sound Support
Graphics Description:
Dedicated Graphics
GPU/VPU:
NVIDIA GeForce GT 320
Video Memory:
1GB dedicated
Video Interface:
HDMI
VGA
WiFi Chipset:
Integrated
WiFi Data Transfer Rate:
up to 300Mbps
WiFi Description:
Wireless LAN 802.11 b/g/n
WiFi Standards Supported:
802.11b
802.11g
802.11n
LAN Data Transfer Rate:
10/100 Mbps
LAN Description:
Fast Ethernet
LAN Interface Type:
RJ-45
LAN Ports:
1
Mouse Type:
Optical
Connection Type:
USB
Power Source:
USB Connection

How is compatibility with creative cloud products (Photoshop and Illustrator) with Macbook Pro? I am making a big purchase and would love some feedback

how is compatibility with creative cloud products (Photoshop and Illustrator) with Macbook Pro? I am making a big purchase and would love some
feedback

Hi Frederick,
You're spending a lot of money. I will add my 2¢ -- -- but you must, as I assume you know, fully research your options.
Environment:
Start with your workspace (inc. lighting) and your clothes.
Screen:
The iMac screens are lovely, but not, from what I hear, monitor-grade accurate. For critical color work, use NEC or Eizo monitors. I use NEC, with their SpectraView II software and an X-Rite ColorMunki photospectrometer. At the time, this was the least expensive color-calibrated workflow.
Printer:
Epson's are great, imho. I use a 3880 in my studio and rent a 9900 by the hour when needed. I have read of problems (iirc) with one of the printers in the 7000 line, however. The take-home lesson that I filed in my brain was, "If you're going to spend the money on the 7000 line, just get the 9000 line."
Aperture workflow:
Aperture is a fantastic workflow tool. Since you are adept with PS, you should set PS as your external editor. Use Apertures formidable tools for storing and organizing your Images, and its robust editing tools for either all your proofing, or all but your most demanding editing needs. That said, allow a good bit of time to get the feel of Aperture. It is not at all like Bridge. But your important choice is which RAW converter you want to use. There is, imho, no reason to use Aperture if you are going to use Adobe's (or anyone else's) RAW converter.
Good luck!
--Kirby.

I actually need help but cannot find the answer. Please.......Lately when open a new tab it does not open with a blank page. I don't want to set my homepage as

I actually need help but cannot find the answer.
Please.......Lately when open a new tab it does not open with a blank page. I don't want to set my homepage as blank as when I first open Firefox, it automatically loads my hotmail page. But then if I open other pages I don't get a blank page. Help, please?
Thank you.
''[Personal information removed by moderator. Please read [[Forum and chat rules and guidelines]], thanks.]''

hello, please refer to [[New Tab Page – show, hide and customize top sites]] in order to switch the feature off.

Would love some advice on a new purchase . . .

I want to buy a new laptop. I currently have a 2001 PowerPC G4. 500MHz with 640 RAM. I'd love some advice on a new purchase. Sorry if this gets long-winded.
These are my desires:
(1) A serious upgrade in speed, into the Giga world. I work for a law firm, and I do a lot of research. Lexis-nexis seems to put a serious strain on my G4. I see some of the new models are over 2 gigs. I've read that 2 gigs is not 4x faster than 500Mhz, in the linear sense. Will going from 500 to 2 gigs nevertheless be substantially noticeable.
(2) More memory. In the near future, my employer is going to give its attorneys outside access to our email system and hard drive files. It would seem to me that I'll need to clear as much memory to make room for that. It look like most of the new models have a max space of 2 Ghz. That's more than 3 times the space i currently have. I'd like to think more memory will make my OS run more smoothly. If that's true, I wouldn't mind spending more money to get the biggest memory chip.
(3) I do a lot of word processing. I grew up on Macs (California girl), but I gave up on AppleWorks a couple years ago. I hated it. I purchased Word:Mac and have been very happy with it. Nevertheless, Word:Mac slows me down. Again, that seems to be consistent with the whole need for more speed and memory.
(4) I want wireless connectivity. I assume new Macs come with this capability (Airport?), but I'm not sure if I'll need an upgrade during the buying process. And I really have no idea how buying the airport hardware/software impacts my need what I have to but from my ISP (my cable company).
(5) The 15 inch seems like a nicer upgrade; 17 would be nicer, but I don't need it.
(6) I really don't want to spend more than $2500.00. But I'll spend a little more if it makes sense.
(7) Protection. I've read that Tiger is substantially safer than other OS's. That said, if someone could infect/corrupt/whatever my files (or access client files), that would be a disaster. I've read that Norton slows your down and is unecessary with Tiger.
There's a lot of pretty cool things Mac offers that I DON'T use. Like making movies or the isight stuff. I'm mainly a girl who is either writing, researching, emailing, or reading stuff online.
I'd love some advice. Some of the stuff I've read online has left me with too many questions.
Thanks!
Lindsay

(1) Comparing clock speeds isn't a good way to compare processors. That said, because of various architecture changes, the MBP is probably a solid 8-10 times faster than your G4 system.
(2) Definately max out the RAM. My advice is to get the stock, single 1GB stick from Apple, and then head over to Crucial and buy yourself another stick. It's fairly easy to install, and Apple gives you a step by step guide on the MBP manual. You could have Apple pop in another stick, but it'll cost you more than double what you'll pay by going with Crucial ($300 vs. $135)
(3) Office:Mac will work just fine on your MBP. It might be a little slow to open when you first boot up (6, 7, 8 bounces on the dock), but after that everything starts right up. It should make too much of a difference, but since Office is running through emulation the 2GB will help.
(4) The wirless in an MBP is the same as in every other computer: 802.11B/G compatible. It'll work with any router out there; no need to go out and buy an AirPort router from Apple if you already have one. Then again, at $200, I don't know that I'd ever buy an AirPort. A plain old Linksys for $50 should work just fine...assuming you even need a router.
(5) You said it. The 15" is nice, but the 17" is nicer. The 17" has a few other goodies (a few extra USB ports, a FireWire800 port, an extra FireWire400 port), but unless you have a ton of devices you're plugging in, or an external hard drive you're constantly reading from/writing to, they're a non-factor. If you wanna save some money, go with the 15"; if you wanna live a little, the 17".
(6) On the laptop itself, that shouldn't be a problem. You can get yourself a nice 15" with AppleCare for right around what you're looking to spend. Of course, depending on what addons and software you get (MS Office, a bag, mouse, etc.), you're probably looking at closer to $3000.
(7) You hit it right on the head. There's really not much you need to do. Turn on the firewall built into OS X; make sure your router is secure (MAC address filtering, strong pass code, WPA2 encryption); and make sure you change your passwords every so often (every month or two should be more than sufficient). While it's not entirely necessary, based on your line of work it, it would probably be wise to get yourself an external hard drive (HDD) onto which you can backup your files. A MyBook from Western Digital wouldn't be a bad idea. If you go with the 17", get the Pro edition for higher speeds with FireWire 800. If you go with the 15", get the Premium. And, to save some money, buy through Amazon.com
Some suggestions on what you should get to compliment your MBP:
The first is a nice bag to carry it in. I personally like Marware's black italian leather CEO Milano. But if you're not into leather or don't want to spend that kind of money (why money would be a problem when buying a $3000 computer, I don't know...), then check out Brenthaven. They have some quality bags with plenty of storage for all your gadgets and whatnot.
The second thing you needs is AppleCare. While I personally find it ridiculous that a person who just bought a $3000 computer doesn't get at least a years worth of tech support, AppleCare is well worth the money. It extends your tech over the phone tech support from 90 days to 3 years and your warranty from 1 year to 3.
Apple's tech support is second to none (and they actually speak english ), and the extended warranty is a must. The best part of all is being able to take your computer to the Genius Bar in an Apple store. There's nothing quite like being able to walk into a store and have a living, breathing person help you. No crappy music while your put on hold, no having follow directions over a phone... you just give your Mac to a genius and let them do all the work.
If for whatever reason you're unsure about getting AppleCare, you don't have to buy it right now. So long as you buy it and register your MBP within the initial warranty period (1 year), you're all set. So, feel free to try out AppleCare under your current warranty before you drop $300 or so on the extended AppleCare.
The final thing that I recommend you buy, especially if you plan on having this baby on your lap, is a cooler. That is, a laptop tray with fans to provide some extra cooling capacity. Your MBP (or any other laptop/portable, for that matter) sits on top of, or attaches to, the cooler and provides power to the fans via USB cable. I don't know that you'll be getting any burns if you use this thing on your lap without a cooler (or any kind of tray, for that matter), but it certainly isn't comfortable.
As for particular brands/models, I can't really give you one. These things are put out by a lot of smaller companies, and come in so many different variations that it's hard to keep track of. For example, the website I bought mine from no longer exists and I've yet to see anything else that quite resembles what I have. That's not to say these things aren't quality, but don't go looking for something from a name brand company. All I can say to do is search on Google or Froogle for laptop cooler. On the bright side, you'll find plenty of coolers to choose from and you'll have something totally unique.
Well, that covers the three musts. There other various things that you may or may not like...maybe a Marware protection pack or a mouse...but it's really a matter of preference from here on out. Personally, the only other thing I'm getting is a mouse. I've never been a fan of trackpads. I much prefer using a mouse, especially if I'm at a desk writing a paper or doing research. But that's just me...
Anyway, I hope this helps. Good luck, and enjoy your MBP!
MBP: 17" Matte; 7200rpm 100GB HDD; 2gig RAM Mac OS X (10.4.7)

Need help to start with some file and text manipulation

Hello script mavens,
I need help with starting a script that does the following:
-within a base folder it takes an inventory (list?) of all the files (which happen to be image files).
-creates a new folder inside the base folder and calls it imagesX where X increases by one every time the script is run
-moves all the files into the images folder
-within the base folder it creates a new text file and calls it imagesX.js
-writes a "//-" into imagesX.js
-then writes the list of filenames into the imagesX.js twice, separated by an empty line, and adds a semicolon to the end of each filename and saves imagesX.js
-from a folder a level above the base folder it copies a file called index.html into the base folder and renames in indexX.html
-in indexX.html it replaces a string "replaceThis" with "imagesX.js"
The task is more complex but this would help me tremendously do the rest.
If I am asking for too much on this forum please let me know

This should get you started.
The description of how you want to write the data isn't clear, but the rest should work (untested):
property imageNum : 0 -- last used ImageNumber
-- within a base folder it takes an inventory (list?) of all the files (which happen to be image files).
-- get the folder:
set baseFolder to (choose folder)
-- now get the files within it:
tell application "Finder"
set fileList to every file of folder baseFolder as alias list
end tell
--creates a new folder inside the base folder and calls it imagesX where X increases by one every time the script is run
tell application "Finder"
set imageNum to imageNum + 1
set newImageFolder to make new folder at baseFolder with properties {name:"images" & imageNum}
-- moves all the files into the images folder
move every file of folder baseFolder to newImageFolder
--within the base folder it creates a new text file and calls it imagesX.js
set textFile to (open for access file (baseFolder as text) & "images" & imageNum & ".js" with write permission)
--writes a "//-" into imagesX.js
write "//-" to textFile
-- then writes the list of filenames into the imagesX.js twice, separated by an empty line, and adds a semicolon to the end of each filename and saves imagesX.js
-- need more info here
-- a blank line between each instance of the file name? or all file names, blank line, all file names again?
-- an example, please
close access textFile
--from a folder a level above the base folder it copies a file called index.html into the base folder
--and renames in indexX.html
--in indexX.html it replaces a string "replaceThis" with "imagesX.js"
-- the easiest way of doing this is to read the file and write a new copy with the changes - that's easier than changing it in situ:
set indexHTML to (read file "index.html" of folder (container of baseFolder))
set {oldTIDs, my text item delimiters} to {my text item delimiters, "replaceThis"}
set indexHTML to text items of indexHTML
set my text item delimiters to "imagesX.js"
set indexHTML to indexHTML as text
set my text item delimiters to oldTIDs
set indexFile to (open for access file ("index" & imageNum & ".html") with write permission)
write indexHTML to indexFile
close access indexFile
end tell

Need help, how to keep some songs playing together

I've done a lot of searching for an answer to this but can't seem to find one and I'm not sure this is possible, but let me ask anyway.
I have a number of playlists in which I shuffle the tunes but would like to have certain songs (for example Queen's "We Will Rock You" and "We Are The Champions" play in the correct order (i.e., back to back) as they are intended.
Is there a way to sort of "combine" or group these two songs so that even during a random playing in a playlist they will still play together?

Actually, if you have the CD, the easiest way to do this in in iTunes. You won't need to use iMovie.
Before you import the songs from the CD, select (highlight) the songs that you want to combine together, go to the 'Advanced' menu and select "Join CD Tracks". This will combine the songs together when they are imported into your Library.
Hope this helps!

Running extremely slow after most recent software update. Would love some help troubleshooting and fixing, thank you!

Hi folks. Since my last software update, my computer has slowed to a near halt. Help!
I have a late 2009 MacBook Pro, running OS X 10.8.2. 2.26 Ghz / 8 gb memory.
I went into the Disk Utility and ran "verify disk," and got an "ok." Verified and repaired disk permissions. No idea if they're relevant.
At this moment the activity monitor is showing 3.79 gb of free memory -- 10 minutes ago, when I was doing nothing particularly differently, it showed all 7.99 gb in use (active and inactive -- I have. No idea what this means.)
It's all beach balls around here, all the time. Any ideas?

Your problem is excessive swapping of data between physical memory and virtual memory.
That can happen for two reasons:
You have a long-running process with a memory leak (i.e., a bug), or
You don't have enough memory installed for your usage pattern.
Tracking down a memory leak can be difficult, and it may come down to a process of elimination. In Activity Monitor, select All Processes from the menu in the toolbar, if not already selected. Click the heading of the Real Mem column in the process table twice to sort the table with the highest value at the top. If you don't see that column, select
View ▹ Columns ▹ Real Memory
from the menu bar.
If one process (excluding "kernel_task") is using much more memory than all the others, that could be an indication of a leak. A better indication would be a process that continually grabs more and more memory over time without ever releasing it.
If you don't have an obvious memory leak, your options are to install more memory (if possible) or to run fewer programs simultaneously.
The next suggestion is only for users familiar with the shell. For a more precise, but potentially misleading, test, run the following command:
sudo leaks -nocontext -nostacks process | grep total
where process is the name of a process you suspect of leaking memory. Almost every process will leak some memory; the question is how much, and especially how much the leak increases with time. I can’t be more specific. See the leaks(1) man page and the Apple developer documentation for details:
Memory Usage Performance Guidelines: About the Virtual Memory System

Would love some G3 help here.

I've been a long time user of Windows based computers, so this how "Big Cat" thing has got me in a tail spin. Don't know what came first, who's who, or what is what. But to the current situation. Just purchased two G3s from our local school for $20. Here's some info on at least one of them, hopefully they are both the same: 400MHz, 320MB Built in memory, OS 9.2.2 (I upgraded from 9.? when I first got it), Boot ROM v4.19f1, 20GB Hard Drive and 8MB video. Hopefully that is what info is needed to help you . . . help me. Trying to get these two computers upgraded for my two kids ages 3 and 5. Here's the problem, it has Internet Explorer v 5.0 as it's web browser. It keeps hanging up when goin out on the web. Can maybe tool around for about 2-5 mins before it hangs up and I have to shut the computer off as it completely locks up the computer. What should I be running on this computer without any hardware upgrades? As far as what is the best browser for this computer at the current state it is in and if I can upgrade the OS cheaply (free) what OS should I be running. Thanks for your time and patiences with this Mac newbie.

IE 5.1.7 was the last version for Mac OS 9. There was no IE 6.x for either Mac OS 9 or Mac OS X.
Another browser to consider is iCab
http://www.icab.de/
Using Mac OS 9, you may have to use different browsers for different sites, so having IE 5.1.7, iCab, and Classilla available is better than deciding on just one. Back when I used Mac OS 9 regularly, I rarely used IE or iCab once I started using WaMCom (the predecessor of Classilla), but they were available to be tried if WaMCom did not work on a particular site. And some current web sites will simply not work properly with Mac OS 9.
This comes up when I search VersionTracker for Mac "Classic" educational downloads
http://www.versiontracker.com/macos/educational/
This online store has old educational software at low cost, and a lot of it is Mac OS 9 compatible. OS requirements are in the description.
http://softwareblowouts.com/education.html

After Effects very slow - would love some help

Ok,
Here is my system :
Vista 64 Ult.
Q6600
P5Q-E
8 gig of RAM
Geforce GSO 9600
I am working with a project that is 1500 X 1050 (approx) - it contains some camera moves and some page peel effects on pictures - and it is running unbearably slow...
I have enabled Disk caching to a separate SATA drive - also I notice that when I am running CS3 - is saying it only recognizes 4 gigs of RAM.
I have also enable Multiprocess for frames. Now, I am not even close to a regular user of After Effects, so this might come as obvious, but what can I do here? Is there a set of steps to help me speed this up? I did take a look at
http://help.adobe.com/en_US/AfterEffects/9.0/WSF13D6BED-C53B-408a-B2D6-C8B4205D4FB7a.html
for improving performance and I did try to touch on most of the points I could understand like making my virtual drive space to 2X the amount of RAM.
Now, I am trying to precompose most of my elements, but I don't know if that is overkill. Really, I just want to ensure that with my new system, it was worth the money and upgrade.

Thanks for all the effort and time. I think I might be getting somewhere with your help.
"You are right. Plus if your render crashes you won't have to re-render the already rendered frames. PNG is lossless quality where JPEG is lossy quality. Depending on the compression setting, the computation from the calculated jpg frame can be lower than the computation time for PNG. You can try on a 30 sec portion to see what is faster."
I haven't tried JPG yet but I will. I want to have something that I can output to DVD with decent quality. Right now .mov looks good, but will try the JPGS.
Another thing to take into account is the writing speed of the file on your HDD. If you are rendering on the same disk where the sources are, or on a USB external drive, it will take more time than rendering on an internal sata/e-stata drive or a raid array. In image sequence, this is more important as AE have to write/close a file for each frame, and depending on your configuration (windows,mac, antivirus, timemachine...) it can make a huge difference.
I have a separate SATA drive for disk caching. I did that right away. I was wondering about the memory caching though in the preferences panel - I am not sure if I should just leave the defaults for that :
MAX MEMORY USAGE
MAX DISK CACHE SIZE
"If on PC try to disconnect it from the web and turn of your antivirus."
My rendering computer is not connected to the internet, so I don't have an anti-virus running on it. It only get programs from my internet computer that have been thoroughly checked first.
You will save time. Turn off disk indexing too.
How do I do this on a PC?
Could you please explain what you mean by "negate its impact fully by using the corresponding layer style instead of the effect. They it's slightly faster"?
Instead of using the drop shadow effect, right clic on your layer in the time line menu and select "Layer style > Drop shadow". It will have the same behavior/options than the Photoshop counterpart. It's better and faster than the drop shadow effect.
I will try this. Thanks
A good way to know what step takes more time than the other (and a good way to figure out what part of the process you have to optimise) is twirling down, in the render queue the "current render" line. It will tell you for every frame, what the rendering is actually doing. The longer the step, the longer it's name will stay on screen.
That is a great tip.
Can you tell me if the comp size makes a difference when I am rendering out 720X540? The main challenge for me is that I have about another 10 minutes to add to the project. I don't want this to take me 2 hours to render out 15 minutes!
Well it probably will. 2 hours of rendering for 15minutes is not that bad. You're doing motion graphics, not editing. Also, if your pictures are jpeg, it add computational time, because the render have to decompress it in memory in order to work with it. If you have disk space, you'd rather like to convert all your jpeg to uncompressed tiff files, so the render engine will just have to load it in memory in order to press it.
That is another great idea. I didn't know that TIFF were better.
I am going to OC my Q6600 slight, to see if there is any effect. Another issue I am running into is that AE says my Graphics card is not an OPENGL card. But the package says it is!
Have you downloaded the latest drivers for your card yet ? If not try to do so, restart your PC and check again into AE."
Yes, I have the newest drivers (it is a new card and I had to go to the NVIDIA site just to get them. The problem is that I have posted on the NVIDIA board days ago about this issue and no one has given me an answer yet concerning this. I just checked again with AE - it says. "NO COMPATIBLE OPENGL CARD FOUND"
It is an Nvidia 9600 GSO 768Mg video card.

I've messed up my boot camp partition and would love some help :)

OK So here's what I've done..
I removed my optical drive, inserted a hard drive caddy, moved my main 750GB hard drive to this location, installed a brand new 250GB SSD, installed Mavericks on said SSD, and booted up. Everything was happy. But now I have 550 GB of my 750GB taken up by my old install of OSX. I took all of my files off, put them on an external drive, and formatted the OSX Journaled portion of the hard drive to ExFat. This, of course, broke the ability to boot from Windows.
My goal:
250GB SSD: OSX
750 Hard Drive: 200GB to Windows, the remaining in a format writable to both Windows and Mac. (which is why I chose ExFat).
And, obviously, the ability to boot from either.
What do I do? I don't have any of my original install media from Windows (I think it was a W7 install that I upgraded with a download to W8 from M$'s website). I'd like to retain everything that's installed there already on BC and just repair it somehow. I've read around that ReFit might help. I'm willing to try it if the general consensus says that's the way to go.
Also, I've noticed that when I changed my user account to be able to store on my ExFat drive, that it can never finish indexing and I can't install dropbox. Is there a better solution to what I'm trying to do?

So, since I got no bites here... How about this...
I formatted that ExFat partition to a Mac OS Journaled partition, and my computer seems to be working great. I will keep it like this. Anyone know how to repair that Windows install from BootCamp?

Would love some quick help

I just bought a Razr Maxx HD yesterday. I came from a Samsung Charge, which I really hated.
After 24 hours of use, I am far from impressed. The phone came with 4.2 JB and the real reason I bought the phone was battery life. With what I would call moderate to aggressive use of the phone, the battery was at 33% at 11:30a and I didn't pick it up until 7:30a.
The processes by the specs should be twice as fast (i.e. more ram, twice the processor, etc) but it is about as fast as the Charge and there can be a lag on the phone where any button is pushed and it does nothing for about 10-15 seconds of repeated pushes.
If there are tips or tricks that I should know for battery use or speed, please let me know. At this point, I have 13 days to return the phone and unless something changes, I don't see a reason to keep a phone that I have to fiddle with the settings (which is why I bought in the first place, to not have to) to get a work day's worth of use when I can just strip down the Charge and get the same speed and battery life...........but I get my $200 back.

Motorola's Smart Actions, Battery Saver, have greatly improved battery life on my Droid Razr Maxx. Also, Gravity Pro Screen Off will turn off your screen, one of the biggest battery consumers on your device, when you lay it down.

Attempting to purchase a Mac router. Would love some help narrowing down what I am looking at.

I would like a list of their products to know what model and year I am purchasing. Exp.. Apple AirPort Extreme Base Station (Simultaneous Dual-Band) (MC340LL/A) Vs Airport Extreme 802.11N (5TH GEN) & or Airport extreme base station (Gigabit MB053LL/A
This is due to my willingness to purchase a refurbished or used router. I have a Macbook Pro and am worried of purchasing an old model with the existing picture. Thanks

If you don't have a backup regime in place, you might like to consider a Time Capsule instead - this would give you ample wireless (and wired) router capability plus the peace of mind that comes with automated backups. Time Capsules are often also available as refurbs in Apple's online store.

I would like some answers

My wife and I have been with Verizon Wireless for roughly 7 years, we currently pay approximately $270.00/month on our account and I am ready to switch to another carrier and no one from Verizon seems to care. My wife has used the same phone for the last four years (because she gave her last upgrade to one of our children), now the phone it dead, it won't hold a charge and getting it to charge is impossible. Her upgrade is due March 17, 2014 and we have been trying to get it upgraded early for the past week.
We originally went to the local Verizon store and asked them if they could help, they tried to sell us some "Edge Program" were we pay full price on a phone and have the cost spread over 24 months. After we declined that program the staff seemed to be offended and became rude and told us there was nothing else they could offer. We then went to a non-direct store, the staff there was nice and called Verizon customer service twice trying to get the upgrade moved up, twice he was told nothing could be done. The non-direct staff member told me to call *611 and speak with customer service myself, which I did. I spoke with "Shamele" a customer service rep, he advised that since we were within 30 days of our upgrade he could approve it but we would have to return to the Verizon direct store in order to get the phone. By that point my wife and I were tired and frustrated and did not want to return to the other store due to the manner in which we were treated the first time we visited them. We decided to return home and see if we could get her phone to make it the 17 days till her upgrade was official.
It was working till this morning when her phone officially died, as mentioned above we cannot get it to charge. My wife called *611 again and spoke with "Danielle" another customer service rep. Danielle was courteous and told my wife she could only have an early upgrade if it is within seven days of her official upgrade date. She also advised my wife that Shamele, the first customer service rep I spoke with, placed a note in our record indicating my request for an early upgrade and his reply that it would not be available until March 10, 7 days prior to our official upgrade. From my recollection of the phone conversation, this is not what I remember. I would like to know who I need to speak with to have my record and phone conversation with Shamele reviewed? If it is found I misunderstood the conversation I apologize in advance for any inconvenience I have placed on those doing the investigation. If it is found Shamele misrepresented our conversation, I hope that he is dealt with accordingly.
I would also like someone to explain why it is so difficult to get an early upgrade, keeping customers happy should take precedence over selling a discounted phone 17 days early. It has been a frustrating experience and more than once my wife and I have discussed switching carriers. Your feedback is appreciated, thank you for your time.

You can get an upgrade up to a week early at a Verizon store. Unless your previous phone was an iPhone. At some point Verizon has to have a firm cut off date in which early upgrade are not allowed. You say "just 17 days" well the someone will want one "just 18 days" early then 19 the 20 etc etc. at what point does that stop? You can get an upgrade in 2 days. By the way if you go to another carrier they won't let you upgrade 17 days early either. Also you can upgrade anytime you want if your wiling to pay full price for the phone which is the future anyway. Subsidized upgrades will be going away within a few years if not sooner. T-Mobile started that trend and the other carriers will soon follow.

Upglading harddrive; would like some answers!

I'm planning to upgrade my internal harddrive. After some searching, I decided on a Seagate Barraccuda 250GB drive.
Some questions though...
Can my iMac support up to 250GB? I know it's at least 160GB because Apple offered it as a built-to-order.
Also, how much difference would getting ATA100/ATA133/SATA make? Or even these SCIS drives at 10000 rpm?
Any help would be great! Thanks.
iMac 1,25 GHz
OS 10.4.2

If you have a G4 there is not a SATA adapter inside so no 150mb/sata drives.
Sata is the new SCSI "skazi" and there is to my knowledge no expansion slot for SCSI pci cards nor for the SATA pci cards.
Also SCSI @ 38gb 15000rpm = $200+ avg. SATA 250gb = almost the same as Uata133 250gb @ $200 avg.
I have had issues with Western digital drive in win pc's as they only like to be connected even with jumpers 1 per cable not even sharing with a cd but there should be a work around for that.
I would recommend Maxtor, Samsung for reliablility and or get one with at least 3 year warranty as this should in the case of problems get the drives replaced for free and say's alot about the confidence the manufacturer has in their product.
Shop at tigerdirect.com , Ebay.com, outpost.com = Fry's electronics on or after fridays as fry's set their specials on friday's for instore purchases.
Basically any pc hd should without any issues work in Mac Osx except for special cards that might be needed
Answer:
Get ata133 7200rpm+ and 8mb+ buffer or even 16mb buffer as this translates to large files/transfers starting slow but gaining speed the bigger the transfer is. It should be able to support even the 400gb drive that is out there as Unix that Apple is based on is capable of handling 1000gb drives since 2000.
I have a MAXTOR usb/firewire connected and it runs fine.
Software = clonex2 @ macupdate.com is one of the better drive copy / clone utils out there.

Need help i would love some answers

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