Need help selecting new router

I'm looking for a wireless router for a small nework to work with my desktop and laptop. Laptop has a n wireless card as does the desktop. I';m not exactly sure what i should be looking for with a router beyond wanting it to be a n router. Need some suggestions.

Jammers wrote:
I'm looking for a wireless router for a small nework to work with my desktop and laptop. Laptop has a n wireless card as does the desktop. I';m not exactly sure what i should be looking for with a router beyond wanting it to be a n router. Need some suggestions.
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/lanwan/router-charts/view
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Help needed choosing a new router

Hi there,
Our company is in need of a new router for internet traffic. Because I'm having trouble selecting a model, I would like to ask for your help on this one. Our situation is as follows:
- Primary internet connection is a 60/10 Mbps cable connection.
- Backup internet connection is an ADSL connection (not normally in use)
- Currently our old DrayTek Vigor 2910 is incapable of processing more than 25 Mbps.
- We have approximately 35 users working in our office.
- Traffic primarily consists of web browsing, e-mail and VOIP phone calls.
When the need arises, we would like to have the option of adding an additional cable connections for more bandwidth.
Additionally, we would like to replace our OpenVPN server with Cisco VPN on this new router, which should handle about 5 users during daytime and 10 outside of office hours.
I have narrowed it down to a 2900-series router because of the flexibility provided by the EHWIC slots. I have found the following models:
Model
WAN performance
Realistic performance
Cisco 2901
25 Mbps
167 Mbps
Cisco 2911
35 Mbps
181 Mbps
Cisco 2921
50 Mbps
246 Mbps
Cisco 2951
75 Mbps
297 Mbps
These performance numbers confuse me as to which model to choose.

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See if attachment helps.

Need help accessing the router web page. I have been tol...

Need help accessing the router web page. I have been told my router is acting like a switch and the IP address is not in the proper range. I have tried reseting the router (hold for 30 sec and unplug for 5 mins). Didn't work.
thanks

What router are you using? Almost all Linksys routers use 192.168.1.1 as the default local IP address, but there is at least one that uses 192.168.16.1 , namely the WTR54GS (not the WRT54GS).
You need to try again to reset the router to factory defaults.
To reset your router to factory defaults, use the following procedure:
1) Power down all computers, the router, and the modem, and unplug them from the wall.
2) Disconnect all wires from the router.
3) Power up the router and allow it to fully boot (1-2 minutes).
4) Press and hold the reset button for 30 seconds, then release it, then let the router reset and reboot (2-3 minutes).
5) Power down the router.
6) Connect one computer by wire to port 1 on the router (NOT to the internet port).
7) Power up the router and allow it to fully boot (1-2 minutes).
8) Power up the computer (if the computer has a wireless card, make sure it is off).
9) Try to ping the router. To do this, click the "Start" button > All Programs > Accessories > Command Prompt. A black DOS box will appear. Enter the following: "ping 192.168.1.1" (no quotes), and hit the Enter key. You will see 3 or 4 lines that start either with "Reply from ... " or "Request timed out." If you see "Reply from ...", your computer has found your router.
10) Open your browser and point it to 192.168.1.1. This will take you to your router's login page. Leave the user name blank (note: a few Linksys routers have a default user name of "admin" (with no quotes)), and in the password field, enter "admin" (with no quotes). This will take you to your router setup page. Note the version number of your firmware (usually listed near upper right corner of screen). Exit your browser.
If you get this far without problems, try the setup disk (or setup the router manually, if you prefer), and see if you can get your router setup and working.
If you cannot get "Reply from ..." in step 9 above, your router is dead.
If you get a reply in step 9, but cannot complete step 10, then either your router is dead or the firmware is corrupt. In this case, use the Linksys tftp.exe program to try to reload your router with the latest firmware. After reloading the firmware, repeat the above procedure starting with step 1.
If you need additional help, please state your ISP, the make and model of your modem, your router's firmware version, and the results of steps 9 and 10. Also, if you get any error messages, copy them exactly and report back.
Please let me know how things turn out for you.
Message Edited by toomanydonuts on 01-21-2008 04:40 AM

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i need help selecting a motherboard
the baord has to run an IDE HDD, support DDR2 ram(and preferably DDR1 aswell but not absolutely needed), on board sound and graphics, Celeron D CPU (3.0Ghz) can anyone suggest a board that i can use??????
thank you for the help
please email me if you can help [email protected]
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Help Needed - Connecting a new Router

Hi,
I have just bought an asus rt-ac68u router to replace my old BT home hub 3. I have connected it to the existing BT openreach modem
I have configured the new router. The WAN settings are PPoE. The router is showing as connected to the Internet.
However the problem is my computer shows the network is not connecting to the Internet despite the router saying it is connected. When I run a windows network diagnostics test it says there may be a problem with your Domain Name Server configuration
Has anybody got any ideas what I have done wrong. I've left the dns field to set themselves automatically.
Appreciate any help you can give. I don't know much about networks, the instructions made it look like it would be pretty much plug and play
Thanks

I don't have this router but going by the instructions here
http://www.asus.com/uk/Networking/RTAC68U/HelpDesk_Manual/
it should be fairly straight forward to set up. All the setting should be populated automatically when you connect with the exception of the setting I gave you.
If you have changed or put in any settings other than the PPPoE and account name etc I gave you I would carry out a factory reset of the router and start again following the instructions to the letter.
Make sure you are connecting by Ethernet before trying to connect by wireless.

Need help on which router to buy for my BB 8320

Now i know 8320 is dated but at this point i am not planning to change anytime soon .
So I have a router which is kinda old, it didnt really occur to me since it worked. When i got my bb 8320 i was in a hotel and i could connect through their wireless without any hassle. I could surf, use youtube, name it.
When i got home i couldnt do anything, i spent countless nights trying to figure out waht was wrong then i realized its my router. If only BB said somethign it wont support old routers then i wouldve saved myself hours of self-loathing.
Anyways I also have gone to my friends house, and i could connect to her linksys router without any hassle. i was the one who set her router up and we bought it this year. i didnt do anything special, configuration-wise or w/e.
So NOW i am just going to buy a new router. I really need help!!!!
I was wondering if this one is good:
W311R Wireless-N Broadband Router
W311R integrates the wireless AP, router, four-port switch and firewall in one, and increases over 4 times transmission range of ordinary 802.11g products. Compatible with IEEE802.11n (Draft 2.0) and IEEE802.11g/b standards, it can provide up to 150Mbps stable transmission rate. It is dedicated to SOHOs and students’ dormitory. In addition, URL and MAC address filtering can take it easy for parents and network administrator to manage network life, and QoS bandwidth control over specific computer’s downloading speed is supported as well. Moreover, UPnP and WMM support can smooth your MSN voice better, and the included Setup Wizard on CD-ROM will be easy and fast for non-savvy users to install the device and access to the Internet.
Overview:
* Includes router, wireless access point, four-port switch and firewall in one
* Provides up to 150Mbps uploading and downloading speed
* Supports two WPS (Wi-Fi Protected Setup) encryption methods: PBC and PIN
* Compliant to IEEE802.11n, IEEE802.11g, IEEE802.11b, IEEE802.3 and IEEE802.3u standards
* Supports far-distance transmission, 100 meters indoor, 400 meters outdoor (depends on the environments around)
* Supports 64/128-bit WEP encryption, WPA and the latest WPA2 encryption security authentication
* Supports RTS/CTS protocol and data partitioning function
* Provides one 10/100Mbps Auto-Negotiation Ethernet WAN ports for WAN connection
* Provides four 10/100Mbps Auto-Negotiation Ethernet LAN ports for LAN connections
* Supports xDSL/Cable MODEM, static and dynamic IP in community networking
* Supports remote/local Web management
* Supports WMM to better smooth your voice and video
* Supports SSID stealth mode and access control based over MAC address (up to 30 entries)
* Supports Auto MDI/MDIX
* Supports wireless Roaming technology and ensures high-efficient wireless connections
* Supports auto negotiation/manual mode for 802.11b/802.11g/802.11n
* Supports UPnP and DDNS
* Supports Firefox 1.0, IE5.5 or above
* Supports SNTP
* Supports virtual server, DMZ host
* Built-in firewall for hacker’s attack prevention
* Supports DHCP server/client
* Supports auto wireless channel selection
* Supports the control over LAN access to Internet
* Provides syslog to record the status of the router
* Supports WDS wireless network extension
* Supports QoS function
Input Voltage Range
AC 110~240V
Output Voltage Range
9V~1000mA
Consumption
20dbm
Operating Temperature
0? ~ 40?
Storage Temperature
-40? ~ 70?
Operating Humidity
10% ~ 90% RH non-condensing
Storage Humidity
5% ~ 90% RH non-condensing
Antenna
One Non-detachable external antenna (5dBi)
Frequency Range
2.4GHz-2.5GHz
EVM
-30dB
Sensitivity
54M:-74dBm@10% PER; 11M:-85dBm@8% PER; 6M:-88dBm@10% PER; 1M:-90dBm@8% PER
Outdoor
400m
Indoor
100m
WLAN?LAN
93Mbps
WLAN?WLAN
93Mbps
Frequency Range
2.4GHz
Gain
5dBi
Nominal Impedance
50
Polarization
Linear; Vertical
Maximum Power
1W
* Vertical Beamwidth 360º

Flip UltraHD.
Shoots mp4 H264 format files. Fits in a shirt pocket and records 2 hrs worth of material to an internal card. Charges from your USB port as you download. If you are just trimming clips, you can use QT Pro without conversion. If you need to edit, convert to ProRes 720p30. Works like a dream.
Just make sure you have it solidly placed when you pull the trigger as there is no image stabilization.
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[Athlon64] Noob needs help optimizing new system

Sorry to post yet another thread, but I've been lurking for the past few days and I only get bits and pieces of what I need. I'm pretty clueless about this stuff as it's my first home-built system
See my sig for system info...
I'm needing help with bios settings. The pertinent stuff (I think - hopefully I got it all down):
CELL MENU
CPU Clock speed: 2200
DDR Memory Freq: 100.0 MHz
High performance mode: Manual
Cool n quiet: Disable
HT Freq: 800 MHz
Dynamic overclocking: Disable
Adjust CPU Ratio: Auto
AGP Freq: By Default
HT Voltage: Auto
Mem voltage: Auto
CPU voltage: Auto
AGP Voltage: Auto
Spread sectrum: Disable
DRAM
DRAM Clock Mode: Manual
Mem clock value: DDR200
CAS Latency: SPD
Burst Length: 8 Beat
Bank Interleaving: Auto
Active to CMD (Trcd): SPD
Active to precharge (Tras): SPD
Precharge to active (Tvp): SPD
DRAM IT Timing: Disable
ADVANCED CHIPSET FEATURES
AGP Mode: Auto (this is "greyed out")
AGP Fast write: Enabled
AGP Aperture size: 128
VLink 8X supported: Enabled
My questions mainly concern memory. I bought all this stuff at the Tiger Direct outlet store in Naperville, Illinois. I had intended to buy the K8T Neo-FSR (754 pin), but they were supposedly out of the 754 pin 3400+, and this board/CPU combo had a $100 rebate. Yeah, it's one of those deals with the odd 939 pin 3400+ that everyone has been talking about.
In any case, I already had the Corsair CMX512-3200C2PT picked out, as Corsair said it was compatible with the board. I wasn't aware of the MSI compitibility chart until I came here later that night. I STILL can't find that chart off of the MSI web site.
Anyway, I got it all hooked up and got the standard 4 red LEDs. Not knowing what to do, I took it back to Tiger Direct and the tech played around with it until he stuck an el-cheapo stick (Corsair VS512MB400) in there and it worked. But it only works in slot 2. So here I am.
I started to run memtest86, but it took too long to run and I aborted it for now. For what it's worth, it said the RAM CAS value is 2.5-2-2-5. I don't know what the hell that means, but I know it's important.
My questions:
1. I assume I need manually to set my memory clock value to DDR400?
2. Now that I can get the thing to post, is there any chance I could get the "good" Corsair memory to work by setting the correct latency/CAS values? Again, I don't know what I'm talking about, so forgive my ignorance. What I'm wondering is if I can set everything to what Corsair recommends while I have the cheap memory in there and then replace it with the good stuff?
3. With this board, am I better off with double-sided or single-sided sticks? As I said, I went into the store intending to buy the Neo 754-pin board, but they were out of the Athlon 3400+ in 754 and only had the 939 pin.
4. Anything else in my bios settings that stand out and need to be addressed? I want to make sure everything is optimized.
EDIT: I almost forgot: My CPU temp is runing around 42-49 degrees. Am I in the danger zone? I just bought a generic cooler for now and intend to get a Thermalright XP-120, but I can't find it locally, so it will have to wait.
AND FINALLY...
I don't know if this is related to anything above, but I have been having a hell of a time getting the 6600GT to run DirectX9+ games. The latest drivers for Windows 98SE was 66.94. Yes, XP will be installed soon, but for now... It was failing on dxdiag test for Direct3d 9 and also the third DirectDraw test. I was about to give up and take it back when I discovered that a new beta driver came out today (71.84). I installed it and it passed all of the dxdiag tests. I thought I was in hawg-heaven, but when I run Call of Duty (the only DX9 game I have besides HL2), it slows to an absolute clawl. The level starts out somewhat normal at first, but quickly slows down to the point that performance can only be measured in seconds per frame! All of the patches 1.5 and 1.51 for UO have been installed, but that shouldn't make a bit of difference.
If I don't get my CoD fix soon I'm gonna reinstall that Geforce3.
Thanks much and sorry again for such a long post.

Thanks everyone for the recent replies, but I started this thread almost a month ago (March 3rd), and much has changed since then.
New PSU (see sig).
Replaced the PNY Geforce6600GT with a eVGA 6800
Added another stick of the Corsair Value Select 512 RAM. I didn't even bother trying to get the "primo" CMX stick to work. I just returned it.
Went from Windows 98SE to XP Home.
The PSU did nothing for me at all, but I suppose it's better to have some headroom in the amperage.
The biggest performance booster was the additional 512MB of RAM. It wouldn't have done me any good in 98SE, but I was shocked at how much it helps XP. Quitting a game is almost instant now, where before it would take a good two minutes or so for XP to recover itself.
As for games running slow, the 6800 fixed it right up. CoD absolutely screams now, as does everything else I've thrown at it (HL2, Doom 3, Far Cry). I think the 6600GT was just bad or there is a serious driver problem with the 6600GT's. Went from 3DMark03 score of around 5000 (when it didn't crash) to above 9000 now. And this was all before adding the additional RAM.
Oh yeah, I bought a 74GB Raptor. No RAID for now though. So far I'm not real impressed with the performance. I'm running off of the VIA controller, since my board doesn't have the Promise controller. I don't see much improvement in loading times as compared to the 40GB 7200rpm Maxtor I have running on IDE1. The only time it beats the pants off the Maxtor is defragging. But there's only so much entertainment value in that. The Sandra "file system benchmark" gave me 57 MB/s, which seems pathetic, but I've read some posts here where others are getting an identical rate.
And I'm not too happy to discover, too late, that my overclocking capabilities are severely limited while using SATA.
I do have one more question for now:
When I installed the second 512MB stick, I originally had both sticks in slot 1 and 2. I ran Sandra's memory bandwidth benchmark and got a much lower score than with the single stick (around 3500 MB/s). WHen I had the sticks in 1 and 3, it jumped up to close to 6000 MB/s. Why is that? Just curious.

Need suggestions for new router running mac with eyeconnect,and ps3

We have the latest version of leopard on our 24" imac and we have eyeconnect ver. 1.6 we need to buy a new router and i want one that is very easy(like plug it in and walk away)to use. The main priority for this is not having problems streaming media to our ps3 via eyeconnect or medialink. Wireless or wired whatever would be the best i have never actually had an airport only linksys and have been unhappy with most of them any advice welcome about the router or getting eyeconnect to be recognized by the ps3 once its hooked up. Thank you

What I have in my house is an Airport Extreme with it's two (n,b or g) wireless connections for older non-N wireless connections. I then got a D-Link DGS-2208 10/100/1000Mbps 8-Port Desktop Green Ethernet Switch 8 for fast subnet sharing in the house. This speed is important for HD video sharing for from the external I have connected to the USB2 port on My Extreme.
Note: My Extreme is in "Bridged mode" because it sits behind a wired router that acts as the DHCP server.
Getting a router with Gig Ports and and USB2 port for an external to store/share files (videos mainly) to all my networked devices. The USB2 port on the Extreme was the deciding factor for the extra cost and this handy port making any USB2 external into a networked drive. Plus my older iPhone 3GS only does G it was a no-brainier because of the dual wireless.
The GIG switch is future proofing yourself for the years to come.
Plus I called the extreme but it is a Time Capsule that is just and extreme with a built-in disk.
One more thing: Use CAT6 cables in your network.
Message was edited by: satcomer

Need help with new itouch

Please bare with me, while I 'try' to explain.
I have my itunes account linked to my iphone and macbook. I have bought my daughter an itouch for Xmas. Now I have set up a seperate itunes account for her on my other Windows laptop. So she is able to purchase apps without them going and clogging up my itunes... NOW this is the bit i need help with...
How can i transfer any music i have on my itunes to her itunes? and vice versa?
Thanks in advance

Right, I have now gone down the line of setting up a new user on my macbook, her own ID and then with the help of Mr google, I followed the steps of sharing my music, by moving my itunes media folder to a shared folder.
Now i got my music on her itunes libary but when i did a test download of an app, it wont show in the library. I have even done the 'transfer purchases'. and its still not showing. I am slowing loosing the will to live with it! I really need help.

NEED Help Importing new Activities.

Hi All,
I am working on a project where I have been asked to add two new activities to all the 841 WBS codes belonging to the project. That means I have to add around 1600 new activities. So instead of going through the tedious task of adding those manually, I was wondering if there was an easier way like importing from Excel or anything else to do this. I need to finish this within this week, so I need help urgently.
Please Help

You can absolutely add new activities in via Excel import however how much easier this ultimately is depends on the structure of your project (ActIds, Codes, Relationships, etc) and the underlying data to be added.
In a large project I have some exposure to Excel is used frequently to make activity level additions/changes, but the schedulers spent a decent amount of time early in the project re-naming activity ID's for grouping purposes (I believe specifically to help with excel imports).
If your additions to each WBS follow any sort of consistent pattern then it may be quicker to use Excel. Even if it ends up not saving much time initially, at the very least you will have a process down for the next time you need to make major changes to your schedule.

Need help with new url address

i'm very new to iweb and .mac - i've worked with websites before but never actually registered for a domain and need help setting up my iweb or .mac website with a new address.
Can someone please help me with this...prices? where do i go? i just don't want to create a site for our student ministry at church without having a web/myname.com address.
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Need help buying new hard drive

I have a macbook that needs a new hard drive and need help knowing what hard drives to buy that will be compatible with it. It is a macbook pro 17inch model no: A1297.
Any help would be appreciated, Thanks

Any 2.5" diameter, 9.5mm thick SATA drive will be compatible. Currently they come up to 1.5 TB in capacity. I have a 1 TB Seagate SSHD (hybrid) drive installed in my primary MBP. The cost is a modest premium over a conventional HDD of the same capacity. Boot and shutdown times are significantly faster when compared to a conventional HDD, I can recommend this as an option.
If the bank account permits, an SSD will produce the overall maximum performance gains. Boot, shutdown and resource hungry applications will be noticeably faster. Casualyll use such as e-mails and text editing will produce no meaningful performance differences compared to a conventional HDD.
I am of the opinion that the cost premium is still too high for the benefits that they afford. Other have different views.
Ciao.

Need help selecting new router

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