Need Help to remove flicker from DSLR Video

Im working in Adobe Premiere Pro CS5 with a DSLR timeline.
Im using a EOS 7D, Nikon D7000, and a T2i.
The video was taped at an executive office and I had his two desk monitors as a background.
The canon footage has a problem, the monitors have a banding/flicker effect on them and it is quite distracting
I have tried using the standard anti-flicker effect (under motion effects) to no avail.
Does anyone know how I can remove this banding, it is very crucial to the overall video and I would be willing to use a third party
plug-in.
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

In terms of dealing with it at capture:
True "video roll" is not a problem on LCDs, as there's no scanning beam - the display flickers all at the same time. Unfortunately with the rolling shutter in a DSLR, the sensor read order clashes with the flickering of the display leading to banding if the shutter speed doesn't match a multiple of the refresh rate. There's no cure-all solution with a prosumer camera - on something like an EX1 you can dial in whatever crazy shutter speed you want until it cures the problem - if you're filming laser displays and find you need 1/62.86, only pro gear can do it - but with DSLRs you have to pick a shutter speed from what's available, and set the monitor to refresh at a multiple of that rate. We've got it easier in the UK with PAL, as we don't have to compensate for the "crystal" values of NTSC.
DSLRs do however have one advantage - the live view on the back of the camera shows the effect too, so you can tweak settings in real time and find the best combination.
CRTs displaying broadcast TV are easy to deal with, as you can usually match your shutter speed with the stock options on a DSLR (1/60 for NTSC, 1/25 for PAL). CRT monitors for computer display can have a whole range of strange scan speeds depending on the model and resolution (60, 70, 80, 90 Hz), and if you can't find a match with your available shutter speeds, again change the sync refresh rate in the computer's display settings. You may still get a thin black line on the display, but from a distance it'll look OK.
If for some reason you need to shoot 24fps and have an NTSC monitor in the shot, the trick is to keep a matched shutter speed (1/60) so you're running a non-standard 144-degree shutter angle. In the film days, Arri made special 144-degree shutters for this type of work, and you could also rent TVs converted to scan at 24fps, but it played havoc with lighting. Now you can get 144 deg with the standard settings on most DSLRs, or as said previously turn the thing off when shooting, and paint it back in post (which has the second advantage that you can mirror the footage for composition purposes without mirroring the stuff on the screen). Just remember to blur the composited screenshot or it'll look fake.

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Message was edited by:
Mark.Ramos222

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