Need help with hard-wiring speaker set-up

Heres what I am trying to do:
I have a pair of nice old-fashioned speakers. Old-fashioned meaning that there are two wires coming out of each, stereo sound. The ends of the wires are just metal strands, well, you know, they have been cut off. They originally had plugs at the end that could plug into normal sterio outputs. I cut them off because I wanted to use them for an old radio. But now I need speakers for my imach g5 and these will work if only I can connect the wires some how. So should I but plugs to go on the end? I need to pair the wires together, I am guessing? Any help would be much appreciated. This is quite urgent.
I have made a little diagram of what I mean.
[IMG]http://img250.imageshack.us/img250/795/speakersetup6wb.jpg[/IMG]

You will need to put the plug ends back on the wires. I'm fairly sure that any attempt to solder the wires in "permanantly" would be dangerous to the computer. I am absolutely positive that any such attempt to wire them in, would void whatever warranty you may or may not have left.

Similar Messages

  • Working photographer needs help with hard drives and raid O decisions

    Hi new here and also new to Mac well almost new been 20 years since i had a mac. i have a Mac Pro Book and this led to ordering the MacPro since I am a working photographer i made a complete switch in platforms so i have some questions and such but I did place a order on Friday for a 2.66 4gbs of Ram , 2 500 gb hard drive and a 30 in monitor and of course the ATI 1900 XT card so yes i am waiting like many for that card.
    I put initial 4gb of ram since running CS2 will at least take a max of 3gb's in the memory cache . i plan on getting 2gbs more from OWC since that seems to be the only 3rd party ram at the moment that is working correctly from reading some of the threads here. Having 6gbs is a no brainer really given the amount of Raw processing that i do along with PS work plus having e-mail and other apps open at the same time. The ram to me is the easy part although expensive . My biggest issue is what to do with the 2 hard drive slots and Raid O or not but I will start a thread on that. But i will have 6gbs total for now and the bottom line is you can never have enough ram still holds true.
    Now on to my diliemma with hard drives. I did have a raid O scsi 10k rapture and and 10 k scratch on my Dell box and I am just not sure what to do here. i ordered the 2 500 gb hard drive and I may just put them on the storage side of things than get 2 WD 150gb 10 k Sata drives. Now i could Raid O them for 300 gb and get a performace boast that way or i could keep them seperate and put everything on 1 150 drive and ue the second for scratch only. What i don't know is what Mac perfers and what works better. Not worried so much about failure of drives, thats just life in the big city stuff and you just have backups. What i more worried about is performance versus a waste . seems to me that Raid O may not even be needed with these new Intel boxes with all the horsepower going on. Now the other think I notice is the WD 150gb 10 k drives are 1.5 and not 3.0 so is it really faster than the 7200 3.0 single hard drives. I read barefeats shoot out and it seems just getting the right drives in 7200 and Raid O them maybe the answer.
    Okay i am not the biggest geek on the planet but I do know my stuff but this is a area that i look for more knowledge on this. So if i can get some sound advice in this area. i know there are many photographers out there like me pushing hundreds of images that could use the same advice. Now let's leave the money end out , folks sometimes think more with there wallet than what works best not that I am opposed to saving money but after spending over 7 k already on this system it becomes a moot point. LOL
    www.guymancusophoto.com

    Ok your question is if you should RAID O the two 150GB Raptors or not.
    I think it was wise for you to get a couple of them for a boot drive with "Time Machine" coming in the next version of Mac OS X. The second drive would make a excellent bootable backup and eliminating downtime if a boot drive dies on you one morning.
    In fact any boot drive cloning software that is Mac Intel ready now would do you good.
    Now Barefeats has run some tests, and I can pretty much back up what they say from my own experience.
    Mac OS X and apps can be helped only so much by a faster boot drive, and a single 10,000 RPM Raptor is enough, RAID O a pair is overkill.
    If you install everything on the boot Raptor and keep your space hogging files (except iTunes) in new folders on another drive, even a 7,200 RPM 500GB, the two drives combined is faster as there is nearly no wait. Both drives can be accessed at the same time. Keeping the boot drive slim keeps the stylus (arm) moving as little as possible to get all the small reads/writes Mac OS X needs.
    I RAID O-ed my boot drives because 74GB was the largest they had at the time, so combining them gave me speed and larger storage. I hardly use the speed, it only comes in handy if by rare chance I duplicate a 20GB folder, then I can do it in half the time of a 7,200 RPM drive.
    Some of the drawbacks of a RAID O set, especially as a boot drive is that I have to auto-clone the whole set to a external drive regularly (I actually do a couple). Since the data path is separated with a RAID O, any drive failure results in total data loss.
    So if you RAID O those 150GB Raptors, your going to have to clone 300GB to a external drive (or another internal) regularly, like once a week. This will take considerable time and you can't use the machine while the cloning process is going on. Sure auto-cloning software like DeJaVu can be used at night/weekends, but why bother cloning more than you have to for no big speed increase?
    However if your messing with huge Photoshop files that spill over your CS2 3GB RAM limit (you need to have a "scratch" thats as fast as RAM), duplicating large files and other heavy duty drive work, then a boot RAID O will come in handy. Just remember your initial performance of 185 MB p/s will drop about 20-25% when those drives are 3/4 filled. Still 140 MB p/s is extremely good and a no worry situation.
    What is worrysome is anything below 80MB p/s (I'm talking uncached 4K write speeds under X-Bench) with a new boot drive and then as time elaspes that boot drive gets filled up and loses half or more of it's inital speed. 30 MB p/s is really slow. Beachball H&LL.
    http://www.barefeats.com/hard33b.html
    Do Erase W/Zero in Disk Utility all new drives before laying data on them. Drives get subjected to shock which causes bad sectors on the drive. Driver software uses your data as a guinea pig to test the sectors (which you might not be able to recover the file). Zeroing does this without your data, rewriting the bad sector map so your writes are much improved, OS is more stable. etc.

  • Help with hard wired express

    Be gentle, I am struggling here! I have an airport extreme in a location that does not allow my airport express to connect wirelessly in a consistent fashion. I recently hardwired the express by pulling cat5 to my remote location. I have the cat5 plugged into available port on my extreme, in my remote location the other end is plugged into a Netgear 8 port switch (FS608 v3), I have a tv, directv receiver and the airport express plugged into this switch. Currently I have the radio turned off in the express and it streams iTunes perfectly. Green light on. I have tried multiple configurations to get the express to serve as a wireless access point but always get an amber light and no wireless. I would really like to get this express to provide wireless for this part of my home. The express is previous generation and does not do "n". Can anyone walk me through a setup that will allow me to stream iTunes and use the express as a wireless access point. I have found many tutorials for wireless set ups but not for hard wired. Thanks in advance.

    Welcome to the discussions!
    You already have the hardware and wiring in place for what is called a "roaming" network. You need to set up the AirPort Express as a "bridge" to create a wireless network using exactly the same name, security and password as your AirPort Extreme network. Step by step is provided below.
    So, the first task is to retrieve the information that you will need from the AirPort Extreme. You probably already know your network name and password, but may not know that exact type of security that the Extreme is using.
    Open AirPort Utility, click on your AirPort Extreme and click Manual Setup
    Click the Wireless tab below the row of icons to reveal your wireless settings page. Write down the exact setting for security that the device is using and your network name if you do not remember it.
    Close AirPort Utility
    Open AirPort Utility and click on your AirPort Express (AX)
    Click the Wireless tab below the icons
    Wireless Mode = Create a wireless network
    Wireless Network = Same name as your AirPort Extreme network
    Radio Mode = 802.11b/g
    Channel = Automatic
    Wireless Security = Exact same setting as your Extreme network
    Wireless Password = Exact same password as your Extreme network
    Confirm Password
    Click the Internet icon
    Connect Using = Ethernet
    Connection Sharing = Off (Bridge Mode)
    Update to save settings and you should be all set. You should now have expanded wireless coverage and your laptop will be able to "roam" from one area to another and automatically pick up the best wireless signal depending on where it is located in relation to your AirPort Extreme or AirPort Express.

  • Need help understanding the various speaker set

    I must admit to never having used anything but a 2 speaker setup with a sub. I was using an altec set with 4 speakers and a sub, tho i only used it as stereo. This is where i'm confused. What was that...a 5. Thats what i believe it's called. The description doesn't fit because i see there are also 4. sets. So if a 4. means 4 speakers and a sub, what is a 5.....5 speakers and a sub? Thats wouldn't seem balance with an odd number of speakers.
    So as you can see i'm totally in the dark about all this and need a explanation as to what the . represents (the sub?) and the difference between 5. and 4..
    Another question...i now have the logitech 2. Z-2200's. I'm sorta wishing now that i'd gotten some 5.'s or whatever 4 speakers and a sub is called. last nite i hooked up the old altecs to the rear channel so that i had a full 5. setup, tho of course the very different sounding different speakers on the rear channel probably held back the full potential of the sound. Anyway, i listened to some mucic with this setup and played UT2004 with it. As to the sound for the game, that was nice but nothing to write home about. But the music listening was great. So can anyone suggest a good sounding set of PC speakers to match the logitech's sound quality. I 'm talking about a simple 2 speaker set, no sub, just to hook up to the rear channel. Doesn't have to match the logitech's tonal curve, just it's level of quality, or at least fairly close to it. I'd just use the altecs but they sounded literally /4 as good as the logitechs.

    I guess i wasn't clear...i wrote the post at work and was rushed, plus since then i've figured out what the x.x sytem refers to exactly.
    I just bought a 2. logitech system and already have a 4. ste of altecs. I love the logitechs and have no intention of getting something else, especially considering i just got em a week ago. but i tried using the altecs with the sub off and only 2 speakers as the rear speakers to simulate a 4. setup. I really like it and therefore decided to get another good set of 2.0 to use as rears only along with the logitechs to have 4. as i now have with the altecs because the altechs sound crappy. So what i really want to know is if anyone makes a good 2.0 set. I since found a few, but the good ones are as much as my logitec 2. system because there are only a very few good 2.0's made. So my only choice i've found so far is an altec set.
    The other thing i was wondering is how to get the 4. setup to work correctly because there is no 4. in speaker setup in ctpanel. i saw a thread that showed a download that will allow 4., but i was going to lunch and didn't have time to read it fully. So i'm gonna go check it out right now and see if the download applies to my card.

  • Need help with Different approaches to setting variables in a Flash movie in Adobe Flash CS3 Professional Version

    Hi,
    I'm using Adobe Flash CS3 Professional version of Flash
    software,
    I need help and guidance on
    Different approaches to setting variables in a Flash movie,
    what I should do in the fla file, and in the html file.
    Thanks, Gil

    Hi petro_jemes,
    Just a little claritification, you need to add the value to the variable "[string]$ou", and also change the language in the variable "$emailbody" in the function "Get-ADUserPasswordExpirationDate".
    I hope this helps.

  • Need help with 4-5 camera set up for audio/video podcast

    Hey guys. I'm overseeing the podcast/audiobook studio construction for my company's new entertainment venture. It will ultimately be my job to produce the podcasts and audiobooks. The catch is that they also want to film the podcasts as well. I'm trying to find the most affordable set up that makes the editing/conversion process easiest for me on FCPX.
    As you'll see I'm a bit all over the place. The essentials for what I'm looking for is
    1) The right Camcorder
    2) The most efficient way to record, edit and sync audio
    What is the most affordable camcorder to use that works really well with FCPX? I've been hearing rumors that some aren't compatable and require a tedious conversion process. The Kodak Zi8 seems perfect because it shoots in 1080p and has a mic input, but I'm not sure if it works well with FCPX. Now, I don't know if the mic input is necessary. I was thinking the easiest way to automatically sync audio is by plugging the 4 mics into the camera's mic input and record that way. That should sync everything up automatically right? I also watched a tutorial on the multicam editing option in Final Cut and that seems perfect for this project. Do I need a mic input if I use this method? It seems like the syncing is super easy with the built in camera audio and the podcast audio files together.
    I also would like to be able to record directly into the computer but don't know if that's possible. The process of taking 4-5 SD cards and uploading it after each shoot that way seems super tedious. I'm not sure if there is way to do that.
    Another option would be for us to buy a video switcher but all the options seem so expensive. Anybody know of good hardware that'd work? That way I could edit on the go and if we want to make this a live ustream we can do so. I was also thinking about switcher software and using MIDI. Not sure if that is possible either.

    Lets ignore whether you should be doing this, but, if they are requesting that you do it, have at it.
    Although, the simplicity of this is mind boggling, for them not to do it...ah well, you're donating for a non profit, they are probably the cheapest game in town, and lost the sole employee who could scratch their backside...
    Choice one, I dont recommend this one - File > Print booklet, 2 up saddle stitch. Flip back and forth using the Print Settings button at the bottom to orient the page layout and set paper size. Set the printer as Adobe PDF. Keep checking the Preview in the main Print Booklet dialog, I had to set a page range of 39 pages in a 40 page book for this to work last week.
    Choice two - If you have set a 44 page document with bleeds, export to pdf, toggle "Use ducument bleeds", no crops. Place those reulting pdf's in a new 11 x 17, landscape doc, with appropriate bleeds. How you defined the bleeds in the 44 page document dictates how much fiddling you will have to do at the center (fold line) of the new 11 x 17 "imposed" document. (If your 44 page was not set as facing pages, you might have defind inside bleed to zero. If it was not set as a facing pages document, it references top, bottom, left and right bleeds) (The use of pdf for this is not necessary, you could just as easily place pages from the original InDesign file as pdf's) Setting a blue line/guide line at the center would help to crop in bleeding frames.
    All above seems too simple, you are only needing to impose pages 22-23 for these steps btw.
    @Scott Falkner - I knew I was being to wordy.

  • Need help with Hard Disk usage selection.

    I am going to get a Mac Pro and I am goint to probably use Final Cut Studio and Photoshop. This is the Hard Disk setup I was thinking of:
    Bay 1:WD Raptor X 150GB - OS X and some big applications.
    Bay 2:Stock 250GB - Downloads and some programs
    Bay 3:750GB Seagate - Music, photos, and videos (Multimedia)
    Bay 4:120GB - Scratch Disk for Final Cut Studio and Photoshop
    I need recommendations especially about the scratch disk. I need to know if the scratch disk is recommended to have a specific size or speed. Also, instead of the 750GB drive, I would probably wait becaus Seagate might releases a 1TB drive.

    Would be nice if we could unleash those other two SATA ports sitting unused untiil there are PCI Express controllers. And are there any drive 'kits' or something in the wings to mount two extra drives? do-able?
    If you need 400GB for music, photos and video, then yes, 750GB makes sense. And you think you might want/need 1TB? Given the problems RAIDing those "super size" Seagate's and the unacceptable I/O on some drives reported by Barefeats...
    Backup concerns: SATA drives in a universal case with hot-swap drive bays so you can use same SATA as you have internally, and where 750GB Seagate would be nice - and expandable. And where a FW800 interface would be acceptable and offer decent performance (maybe even Oxford 912 "RAID" FW).
    For now, it might make sense temporarily to use external for one drive, and reserve the internal drive bays for things like scratch and RAID.
    With SoftRAID 3.5.x and 3 x 500GB drives, you could create a stripped RAID using the outer tracks and still have non-RAID or even 2nd RAID using the remaining space.
    I would not use 120GB drive for anything. 320 (or 300GB because they are affordable and fast) as the smallest density capacity (except for Raptor of course).
    Two 500GB drives, or two 750's if the bugs or problems get fixed, and using those in RAID? Heck, remove the 250GB and get 3rd.

  • Need help with ASA config to set up proxy on DMZ

    Hello guys,
    I have a problem, I´m trying to configure an ASA as shown in the attached scenario.
    I need that all inside users to go to the proxy server on DMZ and from there they will go out to the internet.
    Right now i have:
    INSIDE INTERFACE
    Access-list inside permit ip 10.1.1.0 255.255.255.0 host 11.1.1.6
    DMZ INTERFACE
    Access-list dmz permit ip host 11.1.1.6 any
    OUTSIDE INTERFACE
    Access-list outside permit ip any host <proxy server public ip>
    REGARDING NAT I HAVE THE FOLLOWING:
    Static (dmz,outside) <proxy server public> 11.1.1.6 netmask 255.255.255.255
    My question would be if it would work with this configuration? Do i need to apply Nat on my inside hosts?  Would all my inside hosts when reached the ASA will be send to the proxy and then through the proxy it will send them back to the ASA and then to the internet??
    Thanks,
    Tony

    Hello Jennifer,
    Thanks for your response. So basically i will need to add a static to allow trafic from inside to dmz without being natted. I don't know what proxy server it will be, the server would be managed by another party, but in my inside hosts i will need to set all the parameters to point to the proxy, once this done trafic will go out through the proxy server to the dmz interface of the ASA and then to the outside world, is that correct?
    Do you think this configuration would work???
    Outside = security 0
    Inside = security 100
    DMZ = security 50
    static (dmz,outside) 11.1.1.6 netmask 255.255.255.255
    static (inside,dmz) 10.1.1.0 10.1.1.0 netmask 255.255.255.0
    access-list inside permit tcp 10.1.1.0 255.255.255.0 any
    access-list dmz permit ip host 11.1.1.6 any
    access-group inside in interface inside
    access-group dmz in interface dmz
    Basically with this configuration my web request will go to the proxy on the DMZ and then from there it will go out to the internet??
    Thanks

  • Need help with my MX98715 NIC setting

    Hi,
    I had trouble with my MX98715 NIC. My question is, how can I change the transceiver capablities of my MX98715-based Ethernet Adapter from adv_autoneg_cap to adv_10hdx_cap&#65311;
    I tried to change everything including system file or use the ndd command, but it takes no effects.
    I changed the /etc/system file by adding:
    set hme:hme_adv_autoneg_cap=0
    set hme:hme_adv_10hdx_cap=1
    set mxfe0:mxfe0_adv_autoneg_cap=0
    set mxfe0:mxfe0_adv_10hdx_cap=1
    Then I reboot my system, but the Solaris 10 still auto negotiates it with the 100Mbps full duplex.
    What's wrong with it?

    I had solve this problem by use the driver from Masayuki Murayama.
    I think the tu-2.2.0 is the suitable driver for MX98715 and etc.

  • Need help with voiceover multiband compressor setting

    Hi there,
    I produce a national talk radio and TV program, and we often do voiceover for various commercials, spots, underwriting, etc. I've been running them through the "broadcast" preset in the multiband compressor, but have been told by a couple of people that it's too bassy and isn't sounding good on their end. While it sounds ok on my end, since this has been mentioned by several people, I'd like to change it.
    Is there a better multiband compressor preset either already in audition or that someone could tell me how to create that would sound better for what i'm trying to do?Again, from the ones that are already in the multiband compressor, broadcast is the closest to what i want, but isn't quite it...
    Best,
    David

    If the compressed sound itself is okay, then probably the easiest thing to do is to EQ the result, rather than play about with the compression. What you really need to do though is to get yourself a monitoring system that sounds the same as the one the clients are using!
    Generally when people produce bass-heavy sound, it's because they are monitoring on something woefully small, with no real bass response. So you produce sound that sounds okay on your computer monitors, or whatever and inevitably the file sounds bass-heavy on a more neutral system.
    None of us here could tell you what would be better settings, or what EQ to use, simply because we haven't heard any of the offending sound. If you post a sample, we could at least listen to it on a neutral system (I have 3!) and tell you what we think might improve it.

  • Need help with configuring a particular setting on SF300-08

    I work for a small business and we have a couple computers that we want to share a ethernet enabled copier/printer with, but for security reasons want to block those computers from internet access.  How would one go about allowing that?
    Thanks in advance,
    Mark Davis

    Hello Mark,
    I can't support the netopia router/modem, but I would think there should be an admin guide for the configuration. If it is a modem/router and you said there is rules for allowing or blocking services, which sounds like access list you should be able to create a rule for the client you want to block on the modem/router to prevent it from talking to the internet.
    If you want to insure no outside security threats can make it to the computer staticly assign an IP address but don't give it a default gateway address. The client will not be able to talk to any other network but its own. It sounds like you only have one vlan or a flat network so this should work, but if you need to be able to have this computer in the future talk to other networks internally then it isn't a viable solution. Blocking at the modem/router would be the only solution.
    The SG300-08 Switch you could setup an ACL to block that client from talking to the modem/router, but the potential for causing valid traffic from being blocked in your own network grows.
    To create this rule you would first
    go to Access Control
    Create a MAC Base ACL (give it a meaning full name)
    Create 2 a MAC BASE ACE
    Rule 1
    Priority 10
    Action Deny
    Destination Any
    Source User Defined
    MAC address of client wanting to be blocked
    Apply
    Rule 2
    Priority 20
    Action Permit
    Destination Any
    Source Any
    Apply
    Bind the ACL to a port
    Make sure to only bind the ACL to the port that connects to the router/modem.
    Cisco Small Business Support Center
    Randy Manthey
    CCNA, CCNA - Security

  • I need help with the initial dowload/set up with itunes on my PC w/Windows

    itunes is not recognizing or insync with my itunes account which I have created...I am getting a meesage to create an account and Error msg 11222

    Welcome kimmyak.
    You'll get more responses if you post your question in the Using iTunes for Windows forum. Good luck!

  • Need help with networking external hard drive

    Hi,
    I am working on a corporate network and I have a Western Digital My Book Studio Edition external hard drive attached to a Mac OSX 10.4. i have other Macs connecting through the network to this Mac and accessing the external hard drive and it works just fine for that.
    What I need help with is the fact that I also have several PCs on the same network (all XP), that need to connect to the hard drive and access the files. I've been able to connect to the Mac using the XP by accessing the IP address. I also set the Mac up with password credentials so that I had to log in to the Mac to access the files. But when I try to access the Mac, it only shows the main computer drive as the only available share and no external drive.
    Does anyone know how to access a Western Digital external drive on a Mac from a PC through a network?

    For an external hard disk drive or other (different) system shared
    storage devices to work, they probably should be formatted in a
    format seen by both operating systems.
    If the WD unit is not seen by Windows computers on your network,
    the WD may have been formatted in HFS+ for the Macintosh. That
    is OK unless you need a Windows computer to access the same.
    The Macintosh can see and use a standard Windows disc format;
    so the external drive may need to be reformatted away from HFS+
    if that is really what is going on (and archive any data on the suspect
    drive elsewhere, since it will be lost to reformatting overwrites)
    and then both Mac OS X and Windows should see the files on there.
    And Macs set up to run Windows may also see the non-Mac format;
    without having to re-boot via BootCamp, if that option is in use.
    As to the other question(s) I really have no idea at this point in time.
    And since that may be the rub, hopefully someone will follow up here.
    Good luck & happy computing!

  • Need help with how to reset bios and admin password to reformat hard drive in 8440p elitebook.......

    need help with how to reset bios and admin password to reformat hard drive in 8440p elitebook? removal of cmos, resetting laptop, using cccleaner, windows password recovery and hiren's was noneffective, any help is appreciated. thanks

    Hi,
    As your notebook is a business class machine, security is more stringent - the password is stored in non-volatile memory and there are no 'backdoor' passwords.  Your best option would be to contact HP regarding this.
    Regards,
    DP-K
    ****Click the White thumb to say thanks****
    ****Please mark Accept As Solution if it solves your problem****
    ****I don't work for HP****
    Microsoft MVP - Windows Experience

  • You speak spanish ?? i need help with my accourt

    you speak spanish ?? i need help with my accourt

    You are not addessing Apple here. If you need to contact Apple go here:
    Contact iTunes
    You can also just post in Spanish
    Usted no se addessing de Apple aquí. Si necesita contactar a Apple entra aquí:
    Contactar con iTunes
    Contact iTunes
    También se puede simplemente escribir comentarios en español

Maybe you are looking for