Need some advice on choosing the right iPad

My wife has been dropping some subtle hints that she'd like an iPad for Christmas. I'm playing dumb for the time being so she'll be surprised when the time comes but I'm forced to admit that I'm a bit ignorant when it comes to choosing the right model for her. She wants one specificaly for pictures,but will probably also use it for downloading audio books, e-mail and web. While I'd like nothing more than to be able to afford the latest and greatest, cost IS a consideration so I'm looking at used & refurbished 2's in the $300-$350 range; maybe a 3 if I can make it fit the budget.
Of the older generations out there, which one has the better camera and would I better off with a 64 gig rather than a 32?

What are all the differences between the iPad 3rd Gen and the iPad 2? Is the iPad 2 worth the cost savings?
http://everymac.com/systems/apple/ipad/ipad-faq/differences-between-ipad-3rd-gen -2012-ipad-2-2011.html
What are all the differences between the iPad 3rd Gen models? Which should I buy?
http://everymac.com/systems/apple/ipad/ipad-faq/differences-between-ipad-3rd-gen -early-2012-models.html
Should I Buy a New iPad? Or an iPad 2?
http://www.maclife.com/article/blogs/should_i_buy_new_ipad_or_ipad_2
iPad 3 vs iPad 2 vs iPad 1- Feature comparisons with iOS 5
http://ipadhelp.com/ipad-help/ipad-3-vs-ipad-2/
iPad Q&A
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ipad/ipad-faq/differences-between-ipad-3rd -gen-early-2012-models.html
A Few Questions (and Answers) About the New iPad
http://pogue.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/03/15/a-few-questions-and-answers-about-the- new-ipad/?ref=personaltechemail&nl=technology&emc=edit_ct_20120315
New iPad: A Polishing of the Old
http://www.nytimes.com/2012/03/15/technology/personaltech/the-new-ipad-is-much-t he-same-only-better.html?nl=technology&emc=edit_ct_20120315
iPad 1, 2 and New Specifications
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ipad/index-ipad-specs.html
16GB vs 32GB vs 64GB: Which new iPad storage capacity should you get?
http://www.imore.com/2012/03/08/16gb-32gb-64gb-ipad-capacity/
How much content will fit on my iPod or iPhone?
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1867
If you think you may get an iPad 2:
Refurbished iPad Prices
http://store.apple.com/us/browse/home/specialdeals/ipad
New 16GB iPad 2 Prices
http://store.apple.com/us/browse/home/shop_ipad/family/ipad/select_ipad2
When iOS 6 comes out in the fall, the iPad 3 will get Siri, but the iPad 2 won't.
 Cheers, Tom

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I need some advice on editing the songs I buy

I have a lengthy list of songs that I have bought from the iTunes store (I guess I only bought the rights to listen to them?) Anyway, there are a couple of these songs that I would like to edit. That is, specifically, I want to cut a few seconds from the start and a few more from the end before I burn them onto a music CD. First, is that legal? If not go no further.. :0). If it's OK to do, how do I (a greenhorn) do it? Do I need a special piece of software, or can I get one somewhere for free? Thanks,
Rich

I can now say for sure that this works if you are burning a music CD. I have a play list into which I have dragged all the songs I want to burn onto a CD. Then I used your tip to cut off the front and some of the back of this particular song (it has a LOT of stuff on it I don't want to hear). Once I had the song pared down to the just the part I wanted, I burned the CD and voila!. It worked! It even changes the length of the song _in that play list only_. It doesn't change the original copy, just the one on the play list that I burned the CD from. Awesome!
Thanks freelancer, I'll mark this one Answered.
Rich
Message was edited by: RichardIII
Message was edited by: RichardIII

I need some direction to select the right DR to install Catalog

I just got LR 2. and I'm at a crossroad not sure which way to go. This is my current situation:
I am have a Mac 10.5 and use mostly Ext HDs, except for Apps that I run using the Int. HD. I have about 175 GB worht of images.
I have the following Ext HD:
1- 1 TB - 550 GB avail. (fw) I am using it as my primary Data, and back up drive
2- 500 GB (USB) - 346 GB avail - as secondary back up drive
3- 350 GB (USB) -198 GB avail - as third back up copy.
However, I am not sure if this is the right way to go since I'd like to keep 2 back up copies of all my images, in addition I would like to install LR Catalog on one of the Ext HD, as well as, backing up LR using one of the Ext HD. I have read that it's best to use the fastest DR to install the Catalog
So my questions is which Dr. should I install the Catalog?
Which DR do I set LR's back up (catalog not images)?
Which DR do I set as the primary one to use while using LR?
Another thing I'm not quite sure if I should even try to use TM since I read that it's not recommended to use while using LR.

Thanks Nicola
I think we both are in agreement and thank you for confirming it . Now comes the heavy task of removing and reformatting the drives yikes. So you think that buy installing the catalog in the Int HD it will not take a lot of room?
I am aware that I will importing the images (as reference) so they will be stored on the FW HD, so the command for any alteration on the images would not take a lot of space on the DR?
McPhotoman
I have another question about TM, how you made your selection for the destination DR to put your TM backups? Do you have a dedicated DR or have other stuff there as well.
Are you telling me that I could excluded "the catalog" in the TM preference while I am setting it up
I have no experience with TM and to be honest I'm confused. I'm not sure if I should dedicated a DR solely for TM

Please advice to choose the right component

Hi,
I would like to develope a insurance product engine.
The idea behind are the following
1, user can set type their formula in the editor or
some place. when they press execute button then it
will take the values from the data base and execute
the formula.to produce the result.
i did this in AS/400. now we want to do it in open
source, due to lot of products and components are
comming and going i can't decide the stabillity.
so could you please advice me,which platform and
software i can choose. or please point the location
where i can get an idea.
Thanks

Mr cross post, bom bom bom
Bring me a dream, bom bom bom
Make him the cutest that I've ever seen etc

OMG I need some advicer about cleaning the iPod Nano (black)

Ok i just bought this iPod nano in black and i got this case for it. It is rubber and gray...anyway i took the case off the other day and there was this filmwith some splotchy stuff on it around the front near the clickwheel. I was wondering if u guys had any sugestions on how to get the surface back to normal without damaging the internal workings of the iPod...THANKS
hp pavillion a1000y Windows XP

Hi Whiteshaq4,
Welcome to Apple Discussions
Knowledge Base Document #61119 says:
"To clean iPod, unplug all cables and cords and set the Hold switch to Hold. Then use a soft, damp, lint-free cloth. Avoid getting moisture in openings.
Don't use aerosol sprays, solvents, alcohol, or abrasives to clean iPod."
Some people do recommend iKlear Cleaning Kit.
I hope that helps,
Jon
G4 1.33Ghz iBook, G4 iMac 1Ghz, G3 500Mhz iBook, Macintosh 128K, eMate... Mac OS X (10.4.5) Airport EX, Moto Razr, iLife '06, SmartDisk 160Gb, Apple BT Mouse, Sight..

How to choose the right Mac Pro Specs?

Hello all,
Below is a question I posted in May along with someone's response. I'm wondering if I should still go with the response I received considering the new release of the mac pro 12 core. Did anything change that I need to note in my purchase or is the below response suitable? THANKS!!!!!
my question:
I need some help in choosing the right specs for my mac pro. I am looking for a computer that will help me in running my small business and keep my art portfolio organized. I'll probably be running several programs at a time (ex. mozilla, itunes, adobe bridge, dreamweaver, illustrator, and photoshop). More specifics below
What i'll be using it for:
building a few websites
managing my small business
large photo file editing
keeping business files, artist receipts, etc
cataloging my art portfolio (large photo files)
storing photos, music, and short videos
graphic design
infrequent film editing
infrequent sound editing
what programs i'll be using:
CS5 (mostly photoshop, illustrator, bridge, dreamweaver)
iphoto
itunes
maybe minimal finalcut/soundtrack pro
maybe minimal aftereffects
Advice?
My concerns are that it needs to run pretty smoothly with multiple programs open, no overheating, plenty of space for file storage and application support.
Hello washleyill,
My advice would be to buy the standard configuration 2.66GHz Quad Core (i.e. 3 x 1GB RAM, 640GB hard drive) from the Apple store, with the exception of the graphics card which you can buy as a CTO option for $200.00. It is well worth the upgrade from the GT120 - I know, because I upgraded myself last November after using a GT120 for 4 months.
With regard to the memory, if you can afford it now, buy 4 x 4GB from OWC now. If not, I would suggest that you buy 2 x 4GB now, and then add another 2 x 4GB in the future. 16GB of RAM is a much better option than 8GB for your requirements. You can sell the 3 x 1GB RAM to OWC in "part exchange", and there would be little difference in price for 2 x 4GB to the CTO option of 4 x 2GB.
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/Mac-Pro-Memory#1066-memory
Instead of buying 2 x 1TB hard drives as a CTO option, you could purchase 2 x 1.5TB or 2 x 2TB HDDs for less money, and you would still have the 640GB. Spare drives are always useful. I use my original 640GB as a spare emergency system boot drive (OS and applications) in an external enclosure.
Another alternative is to wait a few more weeks, in case the rumours of the introduction of a new Mac Pro range in June have any foundation.
Regards,
Bill

Hello again washleyill,
The defining factor, which you haven't mentioned in either this or your original question, is what your overall budget is.
With the introduction of the new models, it's a new ball game now since I replied to your original question.
Now, if it is within your budget, I would recommend the 2010 Mac Pro 3.33GHz 6-Core "Westmere", with the standard 1TB hard drive, the basic 3 x 1GB RAM, but with the CTO Radeon HD5870 1GB Graphics Card.
This is the same configuration that Lloyd Chambers (of Mac Performance Guide fame) has recently ordered:
http://macperformanceguide.com/index.html
Then buy as much memory as you can afford now from OWC (trade-in the 3 x 1GB of Apple RAM against this):
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/Mac-Pro-Memory#1066-memory
(The 1333MHz is now listed on this page as well as the 1066MHZ)
If your budget is large enough, then certainly it is worth considering the 2.93Ghz 12-Core, but the 3.33GHz 6-Core, with maxed out memory and fast hard drives, should be more than adequate for your requirements. The more memory the better for Photoshop CS5!
I have just ordered Photoshop CS5 myself. It is a big step-up from Elements 8, and I was going to wait until next year, by which time, hopefully, any initial problems and bugs should have been resolved.
However, Adobe UK made me an offer I couldn't refuse! The full boxed Photoshop CS5 edition for half price!
Also, the offer included an option to buy Lightroom3 at the same time with a 30% discount off its normal price, and so I have taken the plunge and ordered that as well, because I have never been completely happy with Aperture (II or III). Normally, I would not have purchased both Photoshop CS5 and Lightroom 3, but at these prices the offer was too tempting.
Best of luck with your purchase,
Regards,
Bill

I need some advice about the macbook pro and iPhone 5. I took a video on my iPhone and tried to email it it said it was too big to send? So i downloaded it to my macbook pro and tried to mail it to no avail? The macbook tells me the server won't let it th

I need some advice about the macbook pro and iPhone 5.
I took a video on my iPhone and tried to email it it said it was too big to send? So i downloaded it to my macbook pro and tried to mail it to no avail? The macbook tells me the server won't let it through other mail goes through any ideas how to resize it or what it might take to send it?

I agree with LowLister, the best option for you to share the video online is to upload it to your online storage account for example : Box, Dropbox, SkyDrive (All of them provide free storage beginning from 2GB).
You can upload the files which you want to share in this online storage and then they have sharing options in which you'll will get the link of the file to be sent and send the email. You're good to go!
Tip : You can store multiple files for backup purposes.

Need some help to unlock the Ipad. Cannot contact the previous owner he is in the shelter and I do not know were. After I restore the Ipad is asking that the previous owner has to remove it from his account

need some help to unlock the Ipad. Cannot contact the previous owner he is in the shelter and I do not know were. After I restored the Ipad is asking that the previous owner has to remove it from his account

Nobody on these boards or at Apple will unlock that device for you. Sorry.
(117810)

When I burn a disc from a playlist in iTunes, the track names and artist info does not display on the disc when friends view/listen to it. This probably is an easy fix, but I need some advice.

When I burn a disc from a playlist in iTunes on my MacBook, the track names and artist info does not display on the disc when friends view/listen to it. This probably is an easy fix, but I need some advice.

No, this standard has been implemented for several decades.
How iTunes remembers audio CDs - http://support.apple.com/kb/TA27785
It is just conceivable you burned a CD that exactly matched one already in the Gracenote database. Gracenote uses track count and duration to decide what CD it is you have in a computer. If you have one that matches that it will label it. You could conceivably even have one that matches it that is not the correct one.
This script will only work on Macs:
http://dougscripts.com/itunes/scripts/ss.php?sp=cdtexttocdinfo - script to use CD-text file on CD to label CD in iTunes

My 16 GB ipad says i have less than 1 GB of storage available. Yet when i add all the apps up, the total come to less than 9GB. i know the sytem need some but where is the rest of my storage being used?

My 16 GB ipad says i have less than 1 GB of storage available. Yet when i add all the apps up, the total come to less than 9GB. i know the sytem needs some but where is the rest of my storage being used?

Hi CPI Pierre,
You can determine what is using the memory in your iPad Air by looking at Settings > General > Usage > Manage Storage.
If you are having issues with insufficient memory you may want to troubleshoot using the steps in this article -
iOS: "Not enough free space" alert when trying to sync - Apple Support
Thanks for using Apple Support Communities.
Best,
Brett L

Choosing the Right Power Supply

First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
If you want to know more, read on...
Choosing The Right Power Supply
If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
(As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
K7N2G-ILSR
Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
ATI Radeon 9600
120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
30GB Quantum IDE
TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
BTC DVD-ROM Drive
Artec CD-R/W
Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc. Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
Not yet.
I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
William Hopkins
Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
B.A., B.S., with Honors
The University of California, San Diego
[email protected]
P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.

Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs

I need some advice...

Hi, I'm not quite sure where this topic should go exactly as it isn't about a specific topic. So plz fogive me if it's wrongly placed in your opinion.
Anyway, I've been a long time fan of Linux and I don't want to have to stop using it. I've just recently converted my whole computer to a linuxbox only system, as I was running winxp(uke) before and couldn't stand it. It would lag during simple tasks like going from one directory to another and for no apparent reason, which aided me in my conversion. Enough about winblows, I don't need to tell you guys why it sucks, we all have our reasons. But there is just one thing bothering me now... and that is gaming. I am a huge fan of gaming and have been doing so for quite some time now (years) and well... gaming on linux hasn't been too pleasant for obvious reasons.
1) the games I play except for quake3 are written and made to run solely on a winblows workstation.
2) Wine and Winex3 have limited, but growing support for a range of games.
3) Lastly the main game I would like to play (Steam CS 1.6) doesn't like to run on linux due to its constant updates, which throws WInex3 out of wack. Where it could have been working the day before but due to the update it no longer runs.
I'm thinking of just making a partition for winxp(uke) so that I can game, but this isn't something I'm totally willing to do.
Basically I need some advice and/or suggestions that anyone is willing to share with me.
Thank you in advance.
BTW: I'm not new to linux, I've been using it for almost 2 years now and have tried ALL of the distro's you can think of. (Arch is my distro of choice at the moment, along with slackware.)

Enemy Territory is an excellent game, and it is totally free.
I haven't played the free game from the US Army, but heard it is really good, and is totally free.
I bought Return to Castle Wolfenstein, which plays perfectly in Single player mode, but I have some trouble in multiplayer mode (and I'm not an expert either).
I bought Unreal Tournament 2004, which plays perfectly in both single player and online, but I simply suck at the game.
I bought Never Winter Nights because I know the company has a linux version you can download once you have a registered copy. I havent installed it yet, though, been playing UT2004.
Doom3 is supposedly going to have a linux installer on the CD's, like UT2004 does.
Anygame that uses OpenGL graphics instead of DirectX will prolly run under WINE or WINEX, or be easy for the original company to port (if they choose to).
There are some "up and coming" linux only OpenGL games, light flightgear (a flight simulator), and a couple of 'massive online games".
Betweet RTCW, EnemyT, Never Winter Nights, UT2004, and soon Doom3 - I have enough games to play, and thats without buying winex.
Fergettabout Windows! You simply don't need it anymore.
If you are determined to run Windows, get a removeable drive bay, and just swap boot drives when you want to swtich. Or use GRUB if you want to select from multiple OS's.
thx

Having some serious issues with my iPhone and need some advice

I'm going to these two issues which have been occuring with me for the past weeks-
1.) I am facing a problem with my iPhone 5's lightning port or the cable. This started happening all of a sudden; one second my phone is charging, and the other it is not. Even if it is slightly moved from its position, it would stop charging, and further shaking starts it again, so on and so forth. At first I thought the issue might be with my cable, so I asked my friend to bring his lightning cable to my house so we could test that. It happened again- one shake the phone will charge, another shake stops it. (Note that any kind of movement does this, not only shaking) I'm a bit skeptical about his (my friend's) cable too, though- it shows NOT CHARGING on his iPad while it is in fact actually charging. His cable is only 3-4 weeks old though, so this confuses me even more. I think the issue might be with my port, but as of now I cannot draw a valid conclusion to my problem.
2.) The second problem is that I've noticed my battery drains a **** lot faster now- ever since the first issue started. I manage to get my phone charging by placing it very carefully on the table and it charges overnight. However, when I pick it up in the morning, and read some news, it drains from 100% to 99% in ~60 seconds. This never happened before. Before this, it used to be at 100% for at least 10-15 minutes (might be even more). If I reboot my phone, it shows 100% again, but it still drains a lot faster now. I know because I've been using this phone for the past 4 months now, and I know when it drains and when it does nots
Please, help! I need some advice as to how I should approach this problem. My phone is in the warranty period, however, I would like to have an expert's opinion first.

Hello,
First: I've experienced the same problem with my iPhone 5. I've bought a new charger and it still did the same thing. I went to the Apple Store to get my iPhone checked out and they said that the pins inside my iPhone we're damaged, and I had to get a replacement.
~ Josh

Songs disappearing. Need some advice.

I need some advice regarind my ITunes library. I spent a lot of time importing all my cd's. I now have approx. 14,000 songs now. First I had put them all in as mp3's, then I heard about the quality and smaller size of AAC. I think that is where some duplicates came from. But some how I've ended up with up to 6 of a lot of my songs, at least it is showing 6 copies of many of my song in my ITunes library. But when I go to delete all but one of the songs, through ITunes, sometimes it is fine and sometimes I get the ! icon. I guess even though I left one in Itunes it actually deleted all copies. I did not know I was doing this because it doesn't show the ! icon until you go back and try to select the song. This took days and days to deleted over 6,000 duplicates.
Now I'm finding some albums are missing songs and some are missing the whole albums even though they show in Itunes. I even have gone through and tried to "FIND" the songs some are really there but most are not. So how to I go about reconstructing the library. Is it best to try and find each one or just wipe (delete) my library clean and just reimport the entire library? I'm talking about reconstructing approximately 12,000 songs and I have no idea how many cd's.
I just would like to know how you guys would handle this. Thanks for your help.
Nancy

miner78 wrote:
Need some advice....I just bought the new retina MacBook Pro (2,199 model) and after reading about the ghosting or burn in issues that some users are experiencing I am starring to wonder if I made the right decision. I am still waiting for my laptop to come in so I can still cancel my order. I'm seriously considering opting for the non-retina MacBook Pro instead. This will be my first Mac and I will mainly be using it to browse the web and do photo editing (I'm an amateur photographer) I know the non-retina doesn't not come with SSD and wondering how much of difference that makes. Any advice, suggestions will be welcomed
That's incorrect:
Order online and for a fee you can have an SSD.

I'm Back! Need some Advice! Rebuild time! 6/19 UPDATE! 2nd UPDATE 7/6/15

WooHooooooo! Another quick update, only 5 minutes ago I found this link on credit karma http://www.creditonecards.com/pre-qualification.php?C1BSourceID=C1B1 that lets you prequalify for a credit card! Which I have tried many many many times only to recieve the message sorry we couldn't prequalify you at this time but here are some SECURED cards you may like which sucks! I decided to try one more time at this link and was totally surprised to get preapproval for a platinum card yay! Mind you, this card is probably the worst card to get and I will probably never ever use it, just need it to help with my utilization scores. The fees are high, the rates are high, the balance is low........but oh well I am still doing the happy dance!!!

izzesparks wrote:
Hi everyone! Long time no see! Just need some advice on what else I should be doing. I have been a part of this forum for many years now and I have taken and heeded so much advice that my head is about to explode and now I just want to make sure I am not forgetting anything. I tried to keep it short Last time I was on I hadn’t reached the 600 club yet. But I am here now in the 600 club! Still the low 600’s but its progress. Unfortunately slow progress because a lot has happened since I was last on here. I am now officially divorced. I finally have permanent steady income, no temp services anymore phew. I have had to reevaluate my budget and cut a lot of things out. No cable, no home phone, monitor my electric bill like a hawk and learn to like the darkness, cold in the winter and the heat in the summer. I have an older smart phone, had to do without the latest gadgets and gizmos, which truly hurts my heart because I am an electronic fiend. No tablets here, no high tech laptops. Instead of buying a new car and making payments I bought a really good used gas-efficient car cash, paid in full. But since it’s still a newer car I am paying for full coverage insurance, my only splurge. I have spent this time away from this forum truly taking heed to the lessons I learned on here and reflecting on my situation. I have paid nearly everything off! It took some time but I only have 2 creditors left ‘that I know of’ to pay.One of the creditors has not reported to the bureaus yet but I want to take care of them before they do. Most of the ones I paid have already fallen off because of SOL. I was getting to the point I had the problem where I didn’t just have bad credit, I had NO credit. I hadn’t opened any new accounts until this year. Just today I opened a $500 Secured Personal loan and a few months ago I opened a $300 Secured Credit Card at my credit union. I also applied for a Quicksilver CapOne card and was approved for $300. I just started school this year and there is now a financial aid loan of $1750 that is reporting on my credit report as deferred right now. I tried to prequal for some more but was denied by all of them. So far only quicksilver would approve me. My plans are to move out of state next May and get an apartment for 6 months while I get the lay of the land and then purchase my FIRST home!! Hopefully everything has aged by then and I have had some CLI’s. My situation in a nutshell (Transunion was only report pulled) USED CREDITCHECKTOTAL TO PULL ALL 3 FICO REPORTS The good:UPDATES BELOW FROM 7/6/15SDFCU Visa Secured $300 – reporting paid on time every timeQuicksilver Unsecured $300 – not reporting yetSecured Personal Loan $500- not reporting yetUtility- reporting paid on time every timeNEW CARDS ADDED-Cap One Platinum MC Unsecured-not reporting yetVictoria Secret-not reporting yetMarisota-not reporting yetSent a Goodwill email for the Portfolio account listed below 6/1/15, now must wait patiently. UPDATE!! 7/6/15 SENT 3 GOODWILL LETTERS NO RESPONSE. The bad: DEBT RECOVERY SOLUTIONS- I PAID IN FULL ON 5/27/15 Haven't found a good email contact to send a GW letter, but the search continues....Original Creditor11 VERIZON MARYLAND INCStatus-OpenOpened Date-Mar 06, 2014Balance -$146 Collection Agency-FCOOriginal Creditor HERITAGE WOODSStatus -OpenOpened Date -Jan 21, 2011Responsibility – Joint (THIS IS IN BOTH MY NAME AND MY EX-HUSBAND, AND HE SAYS HE WILL HELP PAY, BUT HE IS NOT GREAT AT FOLLOW THRU)Balance- $1,912 (They have agreed to settle for less than owed for $978) STARTED PAYMENTS, ASKED SEVERAL TIMES FOR A PFD, EVEN ASKED A SUPERVISOR AND THE RESPONSE WAS A BIG FAT NO, SO I AM GOING TO GO THE GOODWILL ROUTE. Collection AgencyPORTFOLIO Recovery (I ALREADY PAID A SETTLEMENT FOR LESS THAN OWED, ON 5/27/15)Original Creditor HSBC BANK SENT GW LETTER, NO RESPONSEStatus -OpenOpened Date-Apr 15, 2013Balance -$518 Collection AgencyRECEIVABLE SOLUTION (PAID IN FULL ON 5/27/15) THEY HAVE AGREED TO DELETE YAY!Original Creditor MED1 AMERICAN CURRENT CAREStatus OpenOpened Date Jul 25, 2013Balance $101 Collection AgencyUNITED CONSUMERS (PAID IN FULL ON 5/27/15) THEY HAVE ALREADY DELETED FROM ALL 3 CRA'S YAY!Original Creditor MED1 EMERGENCY PHYSICStatus OpenOpened Date Oct 06, 2011Balance -$109 ACS/JP MORGAN (PAID IN FULL ON 2/25/15) Tried several times for a goodwill, no responseOriginal Creditor- Wells Fargo education servicesStatus- closedopen date- 04/2004balance- $3000 ACS/JP MORGAN (PAID IN FULL ON 2/25/15) Tried several times for a goodwill, no responseOriginal Creditor- Wells Fargo education servicesStatus- closedopen date- 04/2004balance- $800 ECMC (TRANSFERRED TO ACS/JP MORGAN) Tried several times for a goodwill, no responseOriginal Creditor- Wells Fargo education servicesStatus- closedopen date- 04/2004balance- $800 ECMC (TRANSFERRED TO ACS/JP MORGAN) Tried several times for a goodwill, no responseOriginal Creditor- Wells Fargo education servicesStatus- closedopen date- 04/2004balance- $3000 A new account was added to my credit report Trident asset - original creditor - Lowe's home improvementI disputed the account since I do not remember ever shopping there, claims I wrote a bad check. I don't even have a checkbook, never have. A new creditor sending letters to me now (boy they sure are coming out of the woodworks, not that I have started paying everyone off) NOT reporting to CRA's yet, going to try to take care of this next week before it does. Sooooooooooo what should I do know????!!!! Thanks in advance for any advice given!

Need some advice on choosing the right iPad

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