New 24" iMac - darker backlighting at edges of screen

Hi, I was just wondering if it's normal for a new 24" iMac to have uneven backlighting at the edges of the screen? All the way up and down the left and right sides of the screen for about half an inch the backlight is dimmer than it is on the rest of the screen. It is more noticeable at the bottom left and right corners. There's also two stuck pixels in the bottom left quarter of the screen - one is stuck red and the other is ok unless it has to display the colour blue in which case it just appears black.
I know stuck and dead pixels are possible on any display, but what about the backlighting? Has anyone else experienced this on a 24" iMac?

Following my previous post, the repair shop fitted the third screen under warranty and that screen too had dead pixels.....So this is two brand new screens with dead pixels now... Apple quality? I have contacted Apple direct and asked for a replacement computer as I have no faith in their ability to make repairs and they refuse, though the machine was under a year old when it first went in for repair with the screen problem. So from my point of view, poor quality hardware and poor quality back up. Thanks Apple, I am still waiting, whilst you continue to attempt repairs, this is surely the last product I shall buy from your company.

Similar Messages

Display on new 24" iMac?

I have read many of the complaints about the displays on the new 20" iMacs. For those of you with the 24" iMacs, do you have the same complaints? Are the LCDs on the 24" iMacs of comparable quality to the Apple Cinema Displays? I am considering buying a 24" iMac and your comments would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I am a recent owner of a new aluminium 24" iMac in the UK. I've never used a Cinema Display so cannot comment on comparison.
Can agree with many comments here - very very bright, glare not distracting, crisp (but not as crisp as I'd like at close quarters)
However BEWARE.
My first iMac24 delivery started misting up inside the glass panel a few hours after first boot and had to be replaced - see
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1073945
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1073643
I had left it 2 days to acclimatise to room temp before first boot too.
Also, the replacement iMac24 seems to the naked eye to be brighter on the left side of the screen than the right. At first I thought it was just psychological but I have checked with a camera light meter which seems to confirm that this is not an illusion - there seems to be a third of a stop difference in luminosity. I will check more but looks like this may also be going back. please i hope not. Has anyone else noticed this??
24 vs 20 display
I have also compared several 24 and 20 models side by side and there is a huge difference in quality and viewing angles. The 20 display looked terrible.
The displays I've seen were probably not calibrated so not at their best but that shouldn't affect viewing angles and certainly doesn't account for the luminence gradient from top to bottom on the 20 screens which i have seen on every one so far - please note, the same problem affects my MacBook (screen darker at top than bottom) - I have an Intel Core 2 Duo MacBook, a replacement for my Core Duo which also had the same screen problem, and i have looked at macbook screens of all models in the US and UK and seen the same screen problem.
my advice: spend the extra for the 24 - i decided it was worth it. but watch carefully for the first day or two.
happy computing

It's 2:25p.m.That Means My New Intel iMac is Going to Crash! What's Up?

My father-in-law recently bought a new 17 inch iMac with a I Gig of Ram, running at 1.667 mz, the whole nine yards. Nice machine. He bought it on my recommendation. It worked good until it started crashing. He put up with it for a while. I told him he didn't have to do that. So he took it back to his Apple dealer. They ran diagnostics and then determined it was the logic board. So they replaced that. He brought it home and it continues to crash, screen going dark and then it asks him to restart. The bizarre part of it all is it happens mostly at 2:40p.m. to 2:50p.m. almost on clockwork. What's up with that?
He's calling the Apple dealer tomorrow. They surely will tell him to bring it back in. Anybody have any ideas? This is a vexing problem, one that shouldn't be happening on a new machine.
iMac G4 Flat Screen Mac OS X (10.4.1)

If it really always happens about the same time, a likely culprit would be a power problem caused by someone turning on a cooking device or heater at that time -- and causing a voltage drop or surge in the same circuit.
Is your Dad noticing any lights dimming?
Another alternative, if it is connected via wireless, would be some kind of radio interference caused by someone nearby who is on a regular schedule with using a microwave oven, cordless phone, or wireless computer.
Again, it would be useful to know what programs you Dad is running at that time.
And the timing might just be co-incidence, in which case the range of possible causes is a lot larger.

IMac Dark Area Left Side Screen

Worked late couple of nights ago - watched the left side of the screen go darker. Turned the iMac off for 15 minutes - and the screen was okay again.
Till today... the dark area - left side of screen - turned up again. Disappeared again for 5-10 seconds and the problem reoccured.
The iMac is cold at the bottom of the screen but pretty hot in the top... wondered if it has something to do with the heat generated.
Often happens when iMac is turned on for several hours.
Any ideas?
The iMac is from fall 2009.

Greetings,
Sounds like the backlight behind the LCD is going out.
Reset the SMC and then test: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
Reset the PRAM and then test: http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?path=Mac/10.6/en/26871.html
If the issue persists after you follow the above steps you are experiencing a hardware issue and your system requires evaluation and / or service. You may wish to make an appointment with a Mac Genius at an Apple store, contact AppleCare via phone, or contact an Apple Authorized Service Provider for assistance.

New iMac is stuck on grey apple screen after restart from Migration Assistant

New iMac is stuck on grey apple screen after startup. It is a 3.4GHz Quad-core Intel Core i5 running OS 10.9.4. The problem occurred after a migration from my older 2009 iMac which is running Snow Leopard 10.6.6. When the restart occurred from Migration Assistant, the new computer will not boot up to the login screen. Disk utility did not solve problem. Followed instructions for a soft reinstall of Mavericks but that also did not solve problem. Any suggestions?

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.
Step 10
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 11
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 12
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 13
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

Black/Blank Screen with Boot Camp Win 7 Install on new 27" iMac

I'm having a problem getting Windows 7 on a new 27" iMac and am familiar with the Boot Camp Windows installation process. Here's what I've done...
1. Run Boot Camp from OSX, partition the drive.
2. Insert Win 7 cd, proceed with installation.
3. Computer restarts and the 'preparing for initial setup' message displays with the Win 7 splash screen. When it switches to where it should be displaying the Win 7 desktop, the screen is black.
I can hear the Mac still running, but there's no display. It's like it's waiting for some type of user input for the intial Windows setup (haven't yet entered the key).
I've done a hard shutdown and restarted Windows with the exact same result. After reboot, I get the 'Windows was not shut down properly' message with the 3 safe mode options, where choosing either gets me the 'Windows cannot complete setup in safe mode'. And any key reboots it.
The Mac side still runs fine and holding the option key at start up gives the Mac/Win boot options.
I'm inclined to think that it's a video driver issue since the 27" is brand new. Maybe Apple used a new video card for the larger screen and haven't updated the Boot Camp drivers. I checked on ATI's site for an updated driver for the Radeon HD 4670 they say is in the new 27" model that's currently available. (not the quad core)
Is there any workaround for this? I was thinking of installing Vista instead, and upgrading to Win7 once installed, but if it's a driver thing, it would just be a long way to the same result and could have the same problem with Vista as well.
Any ideas?

I think I figured out what is happening here with the video drivers on the new iMac's and Win7. I believe it's re-directing the video to the mini display-port output when you see the screen go blank. I installed my Win7 x64 with no issues but I had an external monitor hooked up at the time and while it was installing the O/S my iMac went black but everything moved over to my external screen. Once it finished installing then everything went back to normal after a reboot.
Not sure if that helps anyone but pretty sure that's what is going on. So if you have another monitor handy, get the mini display-port adaptor from Apple and connect your external screen before you install Win7. Cheers!
P.S. If you have one of the new iMac's and want to install the latest Radeon drivers (after you have installed Win7 on your iMac), try the following. Download and install the drivers from ATI/AMD directly. They'll try to install and fail (no worries) but now the driver/install files will be unzipped into an ATI folder on your main Windows hard drive.
Now go to this site: http://www.driverheaven.net/modtool.php and download the tool and use the Vista instructions listed on the main page of the URL above. You shouldn't need to download the MSXML 6.0 and I don't think you need to disable the UAC stuff like they suggest for Vista (I didn't) and it works fine. UAC is not nearly as intrusive on Win7 as it is in Vista so I think that's why it worked for me and pretty sure the MSXML 6.0 is already in Win7. Once the program has modified the mobile Radeon drivers then you can run "setup" from your ATI directory and the new drivers will finally install correctly including the Catalyst Control Center. Voila! I now have 9.10 drivers up and running on my new 27" iMac and working perfectly so far.
James
Message was edited by: joudbren

How to drive a 30" Cinema Display from a new 27" iMac?

How do I drive a 30" Cinema Display from a new 27" iMac that has no obvious video out port? There are lots of ports, but nothing resembling or identified as a video out port. Is the very small hole in the cabinet by the power in port the thing I'm looking for? If so, the power/video adapter for the Cinema will not work as is. Do I need a Mini DisplayPort to VGA Adapter? I am completely uncertain about this, and could use solid advice. The AppleCare tech I spoke with today seemed not to have a clue. He said he would get back with me on this. He didn't.

Overview
Every Mac with a Mini DisplayPort allows you to connect an external display or projector using an adapter. You can use an external display as your main workspace or to extend your desktop, or you can work in mirrored mode with a projector so you can view what your audience sees.
Use the Mini DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI Adapter to connect your Mac to a 30-inch display that includes a DVI connector, such as the 30-inch Apple Cinema Display HD, and enjoy the ultimate widescreen canvas with a resolution of 2560 by 1600 pixels.
Compatible only with Mac computers with Mini DisplayPort and Mac OS X v10.5.6 or later.

Hi,,does the new 2011 imac 27 inch U.S version support any pal signal inputs as video or hdmi through the video recorder device or kanex xd ?

Hello,,
I have 1 question please,,,
does the new 2011 imac 27 inch from USA support or lay any PAL signal ??
as for example
I have a friend who lives in the middle east & has kanex xd & he wants to connect it with the imac 27 inch from Satellite receiver or PS3 though HDMI cable,, but yet the signal is PAL not NTSC in the middle east,, so will the imac 27 inch play the movie from the satellite in full colour or in blue & says cannot play the movie because its not NTCS ? because this is U.S version of imac then he might need an convertor?
the same as if he want to record any hdmi or analog device from his video recorder device,,but the input is pal,,so will it plays normal in the U.S machine or will he find any trouble ???
so can you pls give me an advice for him
should he buy the imac from the U.S store or the europe store ??
N.b : there is no mac store ONLINE in the middle east espicaly in Gulf, thats why he want to buy the imac from the mac store online,,
and thank you

Hello,,
I have 1 question please,,,
does the new 2011 imac 27 inch from USA support or lay any PAL signal ??
as for example
I have a friend who lives in the middle east & has kanex xd & he wants to connect it with the imac 27 inch from Satellite receiver or PS3 though HDMI cable,, but yet the signal is PAL not NTSC in the middle east,, so will the imac 27 inch play the movie from the satellite in full colour or in blue & says cannot play the movie because its not NTCS ? because this is U.S version of imac then he might need an convertor?
the same as if he want to record any hdmi or analog device from his video recorder device,,but the input is pal,,so will it plays normal in the U.S machine or will he find any trouble ???
so can you pls give me an advice for him
should he buy the imac from the U.S store or the europe store ??
N.b : there is no mac store ONLINE in the middle east espicaly in Gulf, thats why he want to buy the imac from the mac store online,,
and thank you

My experiences & solutions to new overheating iMac

I know there are many threads concerning these overheating problem with some new aluminum iMacs but it's kind of hard to decide which one to post my experience to so I'm just posting a new thread. This is not a question because I think I fixed the problem with mine. I just wanted to share this with people in hopes that it might correct your problem as well instead having to take it back to the store.
Well, I bought a new 20" 2.4 aluminum iMac on August 24th. I connected my previous iMac to it and started migrating my user account & files to it. During this process is when the new iMac completely shut off on me! I thought it was just a glitch or something. So I turned it back on and it started the migration again. Everything went well this time. But since then it has turned off on me at least 3-4 times. When I was backing up files to an external drive. And a few times while working in Photoshop and Aperture it would start freezing up & the graphics would become distorted and blocks all over the screen. And from my days of overclocking PCs I knew this was a heat related problem more than likely with the video card.
So I installed a program called smcfancontrol and was able to up the speed of the fans. This corrected the problem and I didn't get lock ups or freezes after that. But I knew you shouldn't have to do this so I was looking for a solution so I wouldn't have to take the iMac back to the local Apple Store. Because that would be a pain having to backup files and start over again.
I reset the fans back to normal speed and quit the smcfancontrol program. I installed iStat Menus so I could monitor the fans & temp. It would seem that when the GPU would reach 150 deg F then it would start having problems. Well, I reset the SMC, PRAM, and NVRAM to see if this would solve the problem. Because what it seemed like what was happening was that the part of the system that controls the fans & temp was not responding correctly when it got hot.
Since I did the reset to those areas of the system I have not had any shut downs or freezes. I ran the system through a number of tests. I worked in Photoshop & Aperture at the same time doing a number of different processes while playing music in iTunes. I did the Hardware Test a couple of times. Xbench. And I also ran an pretty intensive test called CPUTest where it got the whole computer pretty hot through repetition. The fan for the CPU was speeding up over the normal 1200 rpm like it should and it never shut off or gave any more errors.
So I'm crossing my fingers now that the issue with my new iMac was resolved with resetting the SMC, PRAM, and NVRAM. And it saves me a trip back to the Apple Store!
I hope this information is helpful to someone.
Following these links on how to reset the SMC, PRAM, & NVRAM:
Intel-based iMac, Intel-based Mac mini: How to reset the System Management Controller
Resetting your Mac's PRAM and NVRAM
-Kevin
*I have owned quite a few Macs over the past six years and have technician certifications in both Macs & PCs.*

Well, I've been wrestling with my iMac for the past week in trying to solve my freeze & shutdown problem so I wouldn't have to take it back to the Apple Store and also if I did then I would like to know what the problem is first so I can tell them if it is definitely a hardware problem. The freezes & shutdowns would happen at random times and I don't think it is a overheating problem now because of this. It did seem like it would happen more often when I would work in Aperture & Photoshop. I would get through editing 3 or 4 photos and it would lock up completing. Then I would have to do a hard reset.
Anyway, yesterday morning I reinstalled the OS via Archive & Install. It seemed to be running better. So I started working on some projects but again after doing some work for about an hour, it froze on me. I took a break because I was fed up with it at the time and came back to it later.
I decided to reset the SMC and PRAM again since I had not done that after the OS reinstall. Then I removed all extra cables except the extra display, keyboard, mouse, & speakers. I skimmed through 2000 photos in Aperture and I monitored the temp & fan speeds. The whole computer got pretty hot especially the CPU and video card (GPU). The CPU fan sped up to 1500rpm at one point like it should. And after getting through all those photos, it did not freeze or shut down on me at all. Woohoo!
And this morning I noticed that the computer went to sleep like it was supposed to. It never did that before. So I'm thinking maybe the OS reinstall and the second time of resetting the SMC & PRAM might have solved my problem. I'm crossing my fingers! I will be gradually plugging in my extra devices to make sure one of those is not the problem.
Anyway, I hope sharing my experiences have helped. I definitely know the AppleCare & "Genius" Bar hasn't been much help to me. Seems like all they know how to do is turn it on! I hate having the feeling that I know more than the people who are supposed to be qualified to be in that position. And as for AppleCare I got some guy from another country who had bad English and was obviously reading through a step by step handbook and wasn't listening to what I was saying very much.
Side note: It's obvious that Apple moved the power supply from below the screen to the upper left corner of the iMac. That's the reason it is warmer in that area. I wouldn't be concerned about that. These power supplies have always run that warm in the flat iMacs. Easier to feel on these new models though because they are thinner.
-Kevin

I backed up my old core 2 duo imac and and was trying to transfer files to my new 2011 imac and when i go to oppen a folder from what i transferred it says "The folder "Music" can't be opened because you don't have permission to see its contents."?

I backed up my old core 2 duo imac and and was trying to transfer files to my new 2011 imac and when i go to oppen a folder from what i transferred it says "The folder “Music” can’t be opened because you don’t have permission to see its contents". Why cant i access the files from my old mac? I tried the time machine and that isnt working either. I have files that I need to use on my new mac, all my old programs and such. I thought they said it was easy to get your files from one mac to another. Please help.

Your account names are probably different on the two Macs. If you know the UNIX command line, open a terminal window and run:
$ id
You should see a line that starts with something like this:
uid=501(your_user_id_here)
now check the owner of the folder you copied over:
$ ls -ld Music
drwx------+ 8 some_user_id_here staff 272 May 14 16:08 Music
Do the IDs match? If not, you could change the ownership. Say your id is "johnsmith"
$ chown -R johnsmith Music
Now try and access it with iTunes.

My menu bar does not appear at the top of my homepage on a brand new 27" iMac only when i pull up an app. this does not allow me to shut down my mac when all apps are closed nor does it all me to use finder. any help would be awesome

My menu bar does not appear at the top of my homepage on a brand new 27" iMac only when i pull up an app. this does not allow me to shut down my mac when all apps are closed nor does it all me to use finder. any help would be awesome

Press the escape (esc) key to exit full-screen mode.

1-new slim imac, 1-new vista machine, 1-new airport extreme

so I've been searching around the threads here and it seems like everyone's problems deal with like not seeing a wireless connection or not being able to print or not being able to file share and you would think that my situation was pretty common; if there is another thread about this please direct me and I apologize if I'm repeating a recent topic.
ok, so i'm setting up a small little network for my aunt, she has a brand new 20" imac slim, two vista machines and one xp laptop. i advised her of getting an airport extreme to share internet. the imac sees and connects to the airpot fine but with vista it does not. vista can clearly see the basestation but won't let me connect to it. i've used a simple WEP key to connect to the base station and basically used defaults for my setting, yes, i am using an "Equivalent Key" for the vista machines but vista just keeps telling me it is unable to connect due to an unknown error.
I've also tried to connect to the basestation with my little cousin's nintendo ds lites and it tells me that it "does not support this type of network security". i mean i just have WEP turned on, are there other settings on the basestation that i need to change? i'm new to the basestation i usually work with the airport express, the setting and stuff are different.
any ideas?
any and every post is much appreciated.

i reset the basestation and and installed the airport utility on the vista machine and through the vista machine set up the basestation. i still can not connect to the basestation if any sort of encryption is turned on but if the basestation is open then the vista pc connects fine. since it looks like wireless encryption isn't an option; is there a way that i can just keep the connection open and just use a MAC filter?
if they had cable internet it wouldn't be a bandwidth problem, but my aunt and uncle live in a somewhat rural area and they have to have satellite internet which means their download cap is around 17GB per month. if their neighbor knows and steals their bandwidth they'll hit 17GB in no time.
the basestation has the latest firmware and both imac and vista machines have airport utility installed but i still don't understand why i can't turn on wireless security and still have the vista machine connect.
i've tried using every encryption type possible and nothing will let the vista machine jump online; even the airport utility (on the vista machine) won't see the basestation when i turn on any sort wireless security.
thanks cloth542000 for your reply, does anyone have any ideas on what i should do?

TS2570 On start up of my new iMac it locks on the grey screen with the apple logo and the progress wheel spins. Boot up in safe and this is where it stopped at "BootCacheControl: Unable to open /var/db/bootcache.playlist: 2 no such file or directory. "

On start up of my new iMac it locks on the grey screen with the apple logo and the progress wheel spins. Boot up in safe and this is where it stopped at "BootCacheControl: Unable to open /var/db/bootcache.playlist: 2 no such file or directory. "

Reinstalling MacOS does NOT fix the problem for me. I'm still searching a solution !
Bernard

I want to buy a new 27in iMac and I want to transfer all my photo and music from my old iMac to the new one. Is this possible?

I am going to purchse a new 27in iMac. I have a 21 inch single core intel chip iMac purchased in 2006. I want to transfer my music from iTunes (3600 songs) and my photos from iPhoto (28000). Can this be done without using an external hard drive? I backed up all my songs from iTunes but I have yet to understand how they show up on the hard drive. Before you all criticize me, I am a 72 year old lady who is limited in my ability to understand technical data but have been able to use a computer for some time now.

Yes. OS X: How to migrate data from another Mac using Mavericks

I'd like to know how can i connect my old iMac tiger with new one iMac lion. I wanna use the old one for external disk to collect files from there to new one.

I'd like to know how can i connect my old iMac tiger with new one iMac lion. I wanna use the old one for external disk to collect files from there to new one.

Hi mshields1162,
Great question, and welcome to Apple Support Communities.
First, you may want to choose to have the sidebar displayed for familiarity:
iTunes 11: Frequently used features
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5649
Afterwards, your device should be displayed if connected:
We'll want to click on it, and choose the Music tab at the top. Let's make sure "Sync Music" is checked:
Afterwards, you'll have the option to sync either the entire music library (for your first iPod), or "Selected playlists, artists, albums, and genres" (for the secondary device). Upon selecting this option, four larger option boxes will appear allowing you to pick and choose what content will be synced. For audiobooks, you may need to do the above in the "Books" section. For a visual instruction on how to do this, see the following:
iTunes 10: Sync to your iPod
http://support.apple.com/kb/VI72
Thanks,
Matt M.

New 24" iMac - darker backlighting at edges of screen

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