New beta driver (2.09.0001) and MIDI playb

Since MIDI playback isn?t used by many people nowadays, I don?t have any hope the CL will fix the outstanding issues, but just for the records:
At least for me the driver fixes nothing in regard to MIDI-playback.
- Resolves SoundFont? issues where notes distort and change pitch during playback and recording
This is what the readme says, but in fact absolutely nothing has changed with the beta driver. But most likely I am only hallucinating...
Notes randomly distort and change pitch exactly as before. This seems to happen more often the bigger the soundfont gets. Try for example the great Fluid3. Works fine on an ages old Soundblaster Li've, but shows the above mentioned problems with X-Fi (since Audigy of course you have to hack the registry to load soundfonts that big - something that has been discussed in various CL discussion forums litarally for years...)Message Edited by lontomer on 06-05-2006 0:38 AM

I forgot to mention, that incidentally I swapped motherboard, ram, cpu and graphics card since I purchased my X-Fi last year. This leads me to the (hopefully not too far fetched) assumption, that in this special case it might actually be the soundcard itself that is causing the problems with playing sounds.Message Edited by lontomer on 06-05-2006 0:52 AM

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I see that i have a problem after installing my new hard drive on my macbook pro mid 2009 version. I put a new hard drive, with all of my information from my old drive installed on it, into the computer. but now have the blinking question mark folder

i see that i have a problem after installing my new hard drive on my macbook pro mid 2009 version. I put a new hard drive, with all of my information from my old drive installed on it, into the computer. but now have the blinking question mark folder. I see that it means that it isn't reading the new hard drive.
did i miss a step between transferring all of my information from my old hard drive to the new hard drive and installing the new hard drive into the computer. I believe that i installed properly. it was quite easy.
thanks for your help

It means there is no bootable system on the drive. If you still have access to the old drive, then I suggest you boot from it then clone it to the new internal drive. Use OPTION boot to boot from the Recovery HD on the old drive:
Boot to the Recovery HD:
Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
     1. Select Disk Utility from the main menu then press the Continue
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     2. Select the destination volume from the left side list.
     3. Click on the Restore tab in the DU main window.
     4. Select the destination volume from the left side list and drag it
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     5. Select the source volume from the left side list and drag it to
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     6. Double-check you got it right, then click on the Restore button.
Source means the external old drive. Destination means the new internal drive.

I installed a new SSD drive in my computer and now Adobe Creative Suite Web Premium says I don't have a license. I have license. It was very expensive. I am disabled now, and I need this software working.

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This may be of some help to you...
http://pondini.org/TM/14.html
From the FAQs Here...
http://pondini.org

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@micka8
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I have a G5 with a brand new hard drive,when I try and install the os I get a panic we are hanging error. What can I do to load the os

I Get a panic we are hanging error when trying to install the os on a new hard drive on a G5

Yes, the hard drive needs to be formatted and OS X must then be installed.
Drive Partition and Format
1. Boot from your OS X Installer Disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu.
2. After DU loads select your hard drive (this is the entry with the mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Note the SMART status of the drive in DU's status area. If it does not say "Verified" then the drive is failing or has failed and will need replacing. SMART info will not be reported on external drives. Otherwise, click on the Partition tab in the DU main window.
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4. Select the volume you just created (this is the sub-entry under the drive entry) from the left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window.
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It's only a lost cause when nothing else works.

New Hard Drive, Mac partition cloned and boots fine, but I can't seem to get my BOOTCAMP (windows) partition to boot! Any ideas?

Hello all!
I got a new hard drive for my Mac Book Pro and an enclosure so I could clone the old partitions on to the new drive.
So I...
Put the new hard drive in the enclosure.
Booted up off an install disk and ran disk utility.
Copied the Mac and Bootcamp partitions over to the new drive that was connected VIA USB.
Turned off the computer, took the old hard drive out and put it in the enclosure.
Put the new hard drive in the Mac Book Pro.
Booted into Mac OSX with no problem.
When I rebooted held down the option key to boot into the windows side, it didn't show up as an option.
When I went back into the Mac side, I loaded Disk Utility and saw that I had the Mac partition, the BOOTCAMP partition, and a bunch of unallocated space. When I went into the System Preferences and set the target boot drive to the BOOTCAMP partition and restarted, I got some crazy error about there not being any bootable info on it.
That's where I am at. I have found other posts with people who are having the same problem, but I have yet to find a solution that doesn't involve me buying some 3rd party software. I know it has something to do with (what is called in Microsoft world) the Master Boot Record, but I don't know how to modify that to reflect that the BOOTCAMP partition is a bootable logical drive. I remember in MS DOS land there was some command line FDSK /something command that you would run (I think it was /MBR) to reset the MBR. To me though, all of these terms are shadowy figures in the Ether.
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-Ricardo
p.s. I read somewhere to boot off the windows 7 disk and run the system repair tools. I tried that and no change.

I got it. It CAN be done. At least on 10.6
How I made it happen (for free) on Snow Leopard:
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7) Everything is running smoothly. Plus, you get the rEFInd boot manager, which is also great.
Deets: I have a late 2010 MBP 13". Snow leopard/Windows 7 32-bit (long story) Moved from original 320GB seagate momentus to new 750GB Seagate Momentus XT.
Feel free to share/copy&paste this solution as you see useful. Cheers!

Installed a new hard drive in my Macbook Pro Mid 2009. Now why is my CPU getting so hot?

So I've wanted more space on my computer for sometime now and I figured a 1TB drive would be a nice upgrade from the 320GB that came with my computer. Now the trouble is my CPU is running at high rate, 70 to 90%. Everything is over heating, even when no programs are running. It got to the point where I had to put the old drive back in. The hard drive that my computer came with is a Toshiba MK3265GSXF 320GB SATA/300 5400RPM 8MB 2.5" Hard Drive. The one I want to put into my computer is; Western Digital Blue 1 TB Mobile Hard Drive: 2.5 Inch, 5400 RPM, SATA II, 8 MB Cache - WD10JPVT. So as far as I can tell the only really big difference between the two is the storage.
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It means there is no bootable system on the drive. If you still have access to the old drive, then I suggest you boot from it then clone it to the new internal drive. Use OPTION boot to boot from the Recovery HD on the old drive:
Boot to the Recovery HD:
Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
     1. Select Disk Utility from the main menu then press the Continue
         button.
     2. Select the destination volume from the left side list.
     3. Click on the Restore tab in the DU main window.
     4. Select the destination volume from the left side list and drag it
         to the Destination entry field.
     5. Select the source volume from the left side list and drag it to
         the Source entry field.
     6. Double-check you got it right, then click on the Restore button.
Source means the external old drive. Destination means the new internal drive.

I just had to install a new hard drive, windows 7,itunes and outlooks 2010 on laptop and want to import contacts, calendars and photos. it seems sync wants to wipe out my phone with whats on the computer unidirectionally. whats the fix?

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-Me again - it also won't upload the few new pictures I have on the computer onto the iPad without deleting all the photos that are already there....

If I buy a new hard drive reinstall my OS and Adobe apps, will this count as installing on 2nd comp?

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TheTx,
Yes! you can simply go ahead and deactivate the product before wiping your hard drive. This would simply reset the counter back to 0 and you will be able to activate the product on the new machine as well .
Kartikay Sharma

New hard drive shows in Bios and device manager but not in windows explorer in windows 7

I have added a new sata 500gig hard drive and it is recognised in the bios, but is not recognised by windows explorer, though the disk is showing in device manager as a hard drive . I have followed the example on the forum by going to computer management and rescanning disks, to no avail.
Any ideas how I can get to use the drive?
My comp is a packard bell and all the details are here:- http://support.packardbell.com/uk/item/?sn=845014390330&g=1400
Hope someone can help.
Rob

Thanks Dale (and everyone else). A cure! Sorry I did not reply earlier, but have been trying all known fixes to no avail... However. The second of your links in the last reply of yours (starting, New Drive or mapped network drive) worked with a slight variation in windows7, as follows is how I achieved joy.
Right-click My Computer , and then click Manage .
Under Computer Management (Local) , click Disk Management .
This far is as above, then I'll add comments to the existing help to show my variant.
In the list of drives in the right pane, right-click the new drive and then click Change Drive Letter and Path(s) .
Here it still did not show the drive in the right window, but below it there is a second window listing disks and one of them unallocated and without a drive letter was my new drive. IMPORTANT! This set of info may not be apparent unless you enlarge the box by dragging it, as the default only shows the top box (so I have missed it until now on all my searching). Right clicking on this gave a set of obvious choices to create a choice of drive letter, format and options (NTFS etc) and this created the drive for me. I am sorry I am vague on the box choices, but on right selecting a live drive it doesn't bring up the "unallocated" box choices again. Many thanks and I hope my variant helps anyone else with a similar prob. Thanks again - Rob
Click Change , and in the drop-down box, select a drive letter for the new drive that is not assigned to a mapped network drive.
Click OK , and then click OK again.

Need advice on new hard drive for Time Machine, and have Firewire questions

I have an Intel iMac 2.66GHz with 500GB internal drive. I am going to buy an OWC 1TB drive to use for Time Machine.
I also have an older 160GB external drive with Firewire 400. I'd like to continue using it for extra storage, and would like both the iMac's internal drive and the 160GB external drive to be backed up to the new drive.
OWC's 1TB drive is available with Firewire 400 & USB 2. For an additional $30, it will also have Firewire 800. If I get the Firewire 800 drive and daisy-chain the iMac > new 1TB drive > old 160GB drive, will the iMac to 1TB drive run at 800, or will the 160GB drive's limitation of Firewire 400 pull the speed of the whole connection down to 400? (If the latter is true, then it would be a waste of money to get Firewire 800.)
Also, will it make much difference whether I use Firewire 800 or 400 for a drive dedicated to Time Machine?
Finally, the 1TB drive with a 32MB cache costs $20 more than one with a 16MB cache. Is a 32MB cache worth the extra expense for using with Time Machine?
Thanks!
Message was edited by: Patrick Houlihan

Patrick Houlihan wrote:
If I get the Firewire 800 drive and daisy-chain the iMac > new 1TB drive > old 160GB drive, will the iMac to 1TB drive run at 800, or will the 160GB drive's limitation of Firewire 400 pull the speed of the whole connection down to 400? (If the latter is true, then it would be a waste of money to get Firewire 800.)
I believe it will operate the entire bus at the slowest speed, but can't say for sure.
Finally, the 1TB drive with a 32MB cache costs $20 more than one with a 16MB cache. Is a 32MB cache worth the extra expense for using with Time Machine?
I went with the cheaper, smaller cache OWC drives for my backups on the theory that if caches speed repeated access of the same data, and a backup is always a single-pass stream of non-repeating data, then with a backup the data that goes in the cache doesn't need to be fetched again and therefore the cache isn't much help for backups. I'd love to hear if that's true.
I didn't answer the one about FireWire 800 for Time Machine because my Time Machine backups are over the network to Time Capsule. However, having a faster Time Machine drive interface should be faster. FireWire 800 certainly speeds things up for non-Time Machine backup software like SuperDuper which I also use.

New beta driver (2.09.0001) and MIDI playb

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