New IMac Performance
Is a New IMac with 4G of Ram and a 7200rpm 500g HD enough to run FCP 5.1 DVD Studio Pro?
My 5 year old G5 crapped out (fans running wild) Kernal panics all kinds of problems.
I certainly hope so, I'm running that software on a 2.5 year-old iMac with 2G of RAM and a 500G HD and it runs like a champ. I dare say, though, a newer machine may very well be faster (mine is 2.33GHz w/ 667MHz bus).
Similar Messages
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ok, so i bought a imac 27 about 4 months ago, and now they release a new one! ****... So my question is, should I sell this one (which by the way is the i5 2.8 with 1 gb 5750 and 4gb ram) and buy the new imac 27 i5,or keep the one i have and buy more ram. I mostly use my computer for photoshop cs5 and illustrator cs5 for graphics out put as well as surfing the web and music.
Please give me you thoughts on what I should do!! Thanks lot!The new iMac is about 25% or so faster than your current iMac(comparable model would be the 3.1ghz version). There are a couple of things that you will benefit from such as the dual Thunderbolt/Mini Display ports/ which may help with multitasking. The video card in the new iMac again the comparable model being the 3.1ghz is a lotttttttt better than the current one that you have. So thinking of the long run those few things may be beneficial for you to upgrade(but it depends on what is important to you).
I had the 2.93ghz i7 version that I just bought in March this year and I turned around and sold it about a week before the new iMac's were announced. I got about $1600 for it, yeah I took a loss but to me it was worth it because my new iMac performs that much better. Now keep in mind I went from i7 to i7...3.4ghz i7 with the 2gb video card. Now I have dual thuderbolt/mini display ports. I have noticed significant gains in my video editing and also in my gaming. So to me it was definitely worth the upgrade!
One last thing, I would not have sold my 2.93 i7 and then bought the 3.1ghz i5, the big reason is because HT(hyper threading), it's only on the i7 model(3.4ghz)... If you take a look at some of the bench marks on engadget, maclife, macrumors, macworld, ****Barefeats.com(they really get into benchmarking)*** you will see charts that will help you make a better decision.
In closing I would say look into it, if you can get a good price out of your current iMac to put toward a new iMac then do it. Like others have mentioned to you, tech changes and Apple will change the tech in these machines next year or do a speed bump later this year or so. One last thing if you go from the 2.8 i5 up to the 3.4 i7, you would definitely see the difference (HT is a must especially for programs that utilize it. You can go to my youtube channel(mob1278) and take a look at my geekbench results.... my 2.93 i7 scored around 10500-11000(8gb ram)...my 3.4 i7 scores from 12700-13000 with 4gb ram....so yeah as you can see big difference. Basically the 3.4 i7 would perform similar or just under a 2.4ghz 8core 2010 Mac Pro which runs you about $3500 with no monitor.... it's your money spend it how you want....and Lion is only going to push it even more when it is released! -
Slow performance, brand new iMac!
Hello!
First, excuse my rusty English.. I hope you manage to read it
Main problem.. Adobe, PhaseOne and other intensive applications is veeeery slow on a high specced brand new iMac! Lightroom 5, PS CC and Capture One Pro 7 is what I use mostly.
I just got my brand new iMac 2014.2 (3.5/3.9 GHz, 32 GB RAM, 512GB flash disk and GTX780M), and its quite a lot slower than my other Win7 workstation. Other workstation specs: i7 4.2 GHz, 16GB RAM, 128GB SSD, GTX 580. I'm working on the same Raid-5 drive (USB-3) too, so I don't know why it's slower..
What I experience:
Changing from "current" raw to next raw (while culling) takes several seconds, and my Raid-5 is done chewing long before I see the result on my monitor. I get the spinning beach ball while waiting for preview. I always render 1:1 on import and 1:1+standard size in menu, just to be sure. Adjustment brush is like dodging in PS v1.0 (NOT CS) when computers had less disk-space than we have cpu-cache today, awfully slow, and it "stutters". Moving/panning in 1:1 is very choppy, and sometimes I get the spinning beach ball while panning.. This happens in LR and CO.. Photoshop CC stutters or have to "think" when I try panning. These problems happens in 6 Mpix, 12 Mpix or 25 Mpix RAW files, and actually in some JPEGs too!
I have done following:
I've tried 2003 and 2010 processing in LR, small change. Fixed permissions in OS X. Removed preferences for LR, CO and PS CC. Reinstalled LR/cloud apps and Capture One Pro 7. Increased camera raw cache from 15 to 50 GB. Followed Adobe's guide to make LR faster. Followed Capture One guides. Reinstalled (clean install) of OS X. I've tried all tips I could find in the forums around.. I have also tried placing RAW files on internal 512 GB disk to see if that helps on performance, but no change. Same story with camera raw cache, doesn't matter where it is.
Additional things.. I’ve also diagnosed the iMac with checkdisk, memcheck, logs, etc.. No problems as far as I can see.
I just changed my workflow from Win to OS X and I depend on this to work.. I currently have 4000 files from my last job waiting to be worked on, and I'm not finished until Christmas in this tempo :-(
If I can't get this working very soon, then I have to return this very expensive iMac and buy a new PC again..Launch the Console application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Console in the icon grid.
The title of the Console window should be All Messages. If it isn't, select
SYSTEM LOG QUERIES ▹ All Messages
from the log list on the left. If you don't see that list, select
View ▹ Show Log List
from the menu bar at the top of the screen.Click the Clear Display icon in the toolbar. Then take one of the actions that you're having trouble with. Select any messages that appear in the Console window. Copy them to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C. Paste into a reply to this message by pressing command-V.
The log contains a vast amount of information, almost all of which is irrelevant to solving any particular problem. When posting a log extract, be selective. A few dozen lines are almost always more than enough.
Please don't indiscriminately dump thousands of lines from the log into this discussion.
Please don't post screenshots of log messages—post the text.
Some private information, such as your name, may appear in the log. Anonymize before posting. -
I am using Photoshop CS5 on a new iMac with a wireless keyboard. I used to be able to hit F11 to perform a custom sharpening action but now the F11 key is the volume control key and I have tried everything to disable or switch the volume key. I have also tried assigning other function keys to initiate the action. Is there a simple solution to this? What am I missing?
Try unmounting the volume on your iMac using Disk Utility. Then mount it again. You may need to reboot the laptop or relaunch its Finder process (using the Force Quit window) after remounting the drive on your iMac. Remember that no process may be accessing any files on the drive you plan to unmount, or the unmount will fail. Unmounting and remounting an external drive on my iMac made it become visible on my MacBook Pro after it had disappeared.
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Uploading data from my old Performa to new IMac
I have just got my new IMac, and I must say I like it.
But I have lots of stuff on my old Performa 6400 (OS 8.6). Can I just use an ethernet cable to get it onto the IMac?
Kind regards
WilliWell, doesnt seem that simple, unfortunately.
When I connect the two computers using the cross over cable, the iMac recognises the Performa, but I get an error message saying that the perfoma uses an uncompatible AFP protocol (what´s that?). With the normal cable, I get no result at all.
I have Apple talk switched on on both computers, and Apple Talk is configured to use the internet port (and yes, I added an ethernet card to the Performa a few years ago).
Do I have to configure the computers differently?
Or how can I use Firewire when the Performa doesn´t have a Firewire port?
Kind regards
Willi -
New iMac beach ball and performance
I recently purchased a new iMac direct from Apple.
For months I had been using a Mac Mini at work with Mac OS X 10.6.6.
My new iMac has also been updated to 10.6.6. Also, I have installed the same software on both computers. They are essentially the same.
I was very excited about my purchase since my Mac Mini at work behaved beautifully. No crashes and no beach balls. It ran like butter.
My new iMac has more memory and a newer/faster processor than the Mac Mini at work, so I expected it to be even better.
So far, however, that has not been the case. I don't see any noticeable improvement in how my iMac runs vs the Mac Mini. Worse, my iMac is frequently hit with beach balls that routinely last 10 to 30 seconds per incident. It has been extremely frustrating. Also, the new iMac crashes quite often, which really surprised me. I have to routinely force quit apps and reboot which almost never happens at work.
Any ideas why the older computer seems to perform way better than my brand new one?
Thanks!Update:
I don't know if this will be useful, but I'm documenting this for the record. Any confirmation of these observations would be most appreciated.
As a Perl programmer (a big reason why I went with iMac in the first place) one of the very first things I did out of the box with my new computer was dig into the terminal and install some Perl modules with CPAN.
I think I did this the very same night I first turned my iMac on. And I can't remember if there was ever a time when I didn't have the beach ball problem.
Eventually I was unable to install new modules or even run CPAN at all. The computer gave me a "permission denied" response even when I was logged in as the root user. I finally learned to solve this problem by going to the Disk Utility and fixing permissions.
I've been using my computer for 30 minutes now and happened to notice I haven't had any beach balls yet. That's a very rare thing for me.
So I'm wondering if the beach ball issues I've been experiencing were related to the stuff I did with CPAN or not.
Anyone ever experienced anything like this?
In the meantime I'll keep an eye on things and report back later with additional observations. Thanks! -
Games performance on new iMac?
Hi all!
I want to buy a mac, but!
My brother and I like to play games like Oblivion, Stalker, Steam-games and other. We're waiting for a new powerful Macs from Apple and here they are!
Now, the questions:
- could You tell me about game performance on a new iMac with ATI 2600Pro Video card using or not Boot Camp and WinXP?
Cuz, if the performance will be slow, then we should to buy a Mac Pro, which is a bit expensive
Regards,
AlexThe_Tank wrote:
The performance of the 2600pro card will not be sufficient to run the newest DX10 and latest DX9 games in the native screen resolution (which is 1080i aka 1920x1080).
So you will either need to play at a lower resolution (which will not look good) or buy a MacPro or PC form gaming.
Hmm not sure if your correct there tank. Acording to the ATI website it can. Now before someone says it I know that the info on there is for the pci express version but isn't it the same card inside the imac?
Edit: Sorry tank just noticed you said native screen res ... I can imagine it would strugle at that res.
Message was edited by: Rob Palmer4 -
Poor Internet Performance on my new iMac Intel Duo
Hi,
Just purchased a new iMac Intel 20" intel dual-core. My internet performance stinks. I have a Windows laptop sitting right next to it, plugged into the same ethernet switch, and it gets twice the performance of the Mac. I measured this using the Verizon Fios speed test. Additionally, web-pages load noticeably faster on the windows machine than on the Mac.
I have the problem whether I'm using Firefox, Safari or Internet explorer.
I have both machines plugged into a 100BaseT ethernet switch.
I'm very frustrated, and tempted to return the blasted thing.
Any ideas, RTFM's or configuration options will be appreciated.Me too MIchael. My PC (right next to my iMac Intel) is getting 10 meg dl speed; mac only gets 5 (at best).
Direct connect from cable modem to Mac yields 7 or 8 , direct connect from cable modem to PC yields 10 megs.
PC gets 10 dl speed even thru a router; Mac can't get past the 5 mark.
I'd really like to know what's up with this.
ISP and Router Manufacturer are no help.
Any ideas guys? -
Downloaded old documents [performa running os 8 app. clairis 4{i think}] on to my new imac.
How do I read these old files on my new imac? They show up as dark icon with green "exec" lettering.
thanks
petercaesarPeter,
The universal file format is actually pdf. Adobe, the company made a name for itself by inventing the PostScript page description language for laser printers. Before that it was dot matrix printing with jagged edges. Once Adobe figured out that their page description languge could be used for more than printers, they got to work on pdf.
Also, you can find older translation software but the best thing to do is to go back and use "Save As..." The save as option will give more options. If you are in ClarisWorks, the save as default is ClarisWorks. Click on the down arrow at the end of the box that says ClarisWorks and it will provide a drop down list of options. That is where you select the universal file formats mentioned above.
If you can find a Mac User Group in your area, you are sure to find some old timer who could not bear to part with their old computers. They can also help with translators or older software titles. The earliest title was Passport. That was a beta test of Apple File Exchange. The latest third party title escapes me for now but it will come to me later.
Jim~
Just a note on "tab delimited text." If you are in a spreadsheet, the tab key takes you from one column to the next, left to right. Think of each tab or column as being a separate field like name, address, city, state, zip, phone number. Each time you hit the return key it takes you to the next line. Think of each return as a new record, or a new name, address, city, state and zip, etc.. Because that was the spreadsheet standard for organizing data, file transfers to databases adopted the same field separators or delimiters. Sorry for the jargon. : ) -
Set up new iMac user accounts & storage locations
I just made the switch from Windows PC to a new iMac since it is still in the box I thought I would take some time to think about how I want to set it up before opening it and starting to dump all my files onto the new machine. I'd like to have an efficient setup and get it right from the start!
My current (PC) set up is this:
I have one 500Gb internal drive. Using Windows 7 I have four user accounts: me, my wife, and one each for the kids with parental controls. I would like to duplicate this setup, and I understand OS X Lion can do this.
Now the messy part: under my account I have a bunch of docs (word, excel files, PDF's, etc, let's call this stuff "data"), a couple thousand songs, a bunch of pics and some movies. Email etc too. When I log into my account I have a my documents folder with my data files. I have an iTunes folder and in it a bunch of music. Some is from ripped cd's, some from iTunes store, some from amazon mp3 store. When I open iTunes I have a library with all of the music avail on my machine. Oh, I also have an iPad 2 and when I plug it in, it syncs with my library and apps and movies etc. I open Thunderbird and I get my email. So far so good.
When my wife logs in she has her "my documents" folder with her data. She opens thunderbird and gets her email, not mine. More mess though: she doesn't like half the music I like, and she doesn't want to see it. When she opens iTunes she gets a library with fewer songs available, and I'm moderately sure that her songs are *copies* of what's in my music folder. Well some are anyway, some point to the music in my folder (I was not very consistent in how I added music to her library). She has an iPad 1 that syncs to her library, with only a fraction of the apps that I have. She has her own pictures too (different from mine - basically she would copy pics from the camera to her "space" but I wouldn't know it, and wouldn't see them).
The kids accounts are relatively "clean" - just accounts with parental controls for web browsing (online kids games) etc. EXCEPT my daughter has an iPod shuffle (2Gb) and a small library of songs. I *think* this library points to my files but hey might be copies.
I *dont* want to end up with a ton of duplicate files on my new machine like I *know* I have on my windows machine. It just eats up too much space.
What I want to do is have one place for all of the pictures to go, and all of the music files to go, and every time there are new pics or music, it all goes there. But I want my wife to have a "smaller" music library than me (she just plain doesn't want the "clutter" of seeing my music and having to sort through it to check it/uncheck it to put it on her iPad - she's a clutter-free freak even with digital files). For photos I want to use one iPhoto library so that if she goes in there and tags some phots with some keyword or event or adds new pics, then I see those things when I open my iPhoto (I honestly don't even know how to use iPhoto to manage my pics, my iMac is till in the box). I want her to have her data under her login and my data under mine, etc. In short, there things I want shared between the two of us, and things I don't, without duplicate files eating up the space on my 500Gb internal hard drive.
Additionally I am considering a 500Gb external drive, and rather than using it for straight up storage, using it as a time machine backup of the whole system. I am looking at a FireWire800 drive for better performance.
I'd like to get this right the first time, but don't know enough about how os x works/sets up user accounts, and/or the best, most efficient way to set up the new iMac from the get go. I don't know if I should set up all four accounts first, then add my data/music/pics manually, or use the "migration assistant" (I have read a bit about using it but honestly don't know how it works, or if it will do what I want).
Perhaps I could just print out this email and pay for apple one-to-one service, but I thought I'd check here first! Sorry for such a long post - but I am hoping I'm not the only one who has wanted to make the switch and start off on the right path! And it's a lot easier to learn from other peoples experience than to figure it all out on my own!
PS: don't know if it matters much, but I also hav an iPhone that I sync with my iTunes, and I'm concerned about losing the configuration/apps/music/movies on both my iPad and my iPhone when I make the switch. Thoughts? Should I be concerned? How do I do it correctly?You have 90 days of free AppleCare telephone support. Give them a call and they can help you set it up, however to be honest you are way over thinking this, those old PC habits die hard! My recommendation is, take it out of the box, read the manual carefully and turn the thing on following the on-screen instructions and start enjoying your new iMac.
BTW as new switcher I would also recommend book marking the following URLs
Mac 101
Switch 101
Find Out How Video tutorials
List of Useful URLs for switchers -
I just ordered a new iMac 3.5GHz I7 with 1TB SSD and 8GB of memory. I have two 4GB iMac memory pulls that someone gave me when they went to 32GB on their new iMac.
My question is what would 32GB over 16GB on this mac with OEM 1TB buy me in performance increase. I am thinking not much...
Would appreciate any comments.
MSorry my Bad..
No more than a Virtual machine ever so often, Photoshop, iPhoto, iTunes, iMovie. MS office every once in a while. Chrome & Safari for browsers and of course Mail other standard OS X programs.
The memory is Apple1600MHz DDR3 SDRAM 2x4GB so I don't expect any problems. He bought new in ~July 2014.
Thanks for the input.
M -
I'm getting ready to purchase one of the new iMac 27" computers (yeah!) and I've basically figured out everything I want at this point other than the memory. I'm trying to decide b/w the 16 and 32 GB options. The main applications I run are Parallels and associated Windows applications like PPT, Word, Excel and remote desktop connection; iTunes and a Windows-based statistical package.
Any thoughts on whether it's worth going up to 32 GB or whether 16 GB should do it? Part of the reason I'm asking is because I found that 8 GB of memory on my MBP was simply not enough when running Parallels and noticed a nice pickup in performance by upgrading my memory to 16 GB on my MBP.
Thanks
JKParallels consumes a lot of memory depending of the memory you assign to your virtual machine, so maybe you will need 16 GB.
However, don't buy your iMac with 16 GB of memory. I recommend you to buy it with 8 GB of memory, and then, buy 16 or 32 GB (maybe 32 GB are too much) and install it on your Mac. You can buy the memory in OWC or Crucial > http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/iMac/2012_27/DDR3L It will be much cheaper than buying the iMac with 16 GB or 32 GB.
To install the memory onto your Late 2012 iMac > http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5540 -
I just purchased one of the new iMac 24" 2.4GHz. After purchasing, I upgraded from 1Gb to 4Gb of RAM. I purchased this machine solely to use for video editing. I'm a professional graphic designer, and I have owned several eMacs and iMacs over the past 5-6 years. I've always been impressed with the performance and price point of these "non-pro" machines.
Up until this latest purchase, I have been doing most of my work on a 20" white iMac 2Ghz Intel with 1Gb of RAM. I have been very impressed with this 20" machine. It runs all the pro apps very well, with great speed and performance, and super stability. I guess I could say that this 20" 2GHz machine is the best Mac I have ever owned.
Because I was so impressed with the 20" 2GHz model, is why I decided to invest in another. I really needed another machine to use as a standalone video editing machine, to run Apple Motion, Final Cut, and Cinema 4D.
So, far this newest 24" 2.4GHz 4Gb RAM model has not overly impressed me. It is a very nice looking machine, and it runs Illustrator, Photoshop and the other graphics programs great, with no lag. But, for video production using Apple Motion, it has not been as stable as my previous 20" (with only 1Gb RAM!). I thought with the addition of added processor speed, quadruple the the amount of RAM, and a so called "better graphics card" that this new machine would run Motion like a dream. I do want to note that my video projects are not HUGE. Most of them are under 3 minutes in length, and standard resolution.
As I read through discussion forums, I am slowly learning that the new graphics card may be a bit lacking in these new iMacs. For this reason I ask, is there any way to upgrade the video cards in these new machines?? If so, please advise, I have many video projects coming up in the future and I need a good solution. If it is not upgradable, what Mac machine would be the best, (cost effective) route to running motion graphics software?jalapi, Welcome to the discussion area!
...is there any way to upgrade the video cards in these new machines??
No the video capability is part of the motherboard and therefore not changeable nor upgradeable. -
I received my new 24" 2.8GHz iMac in early November w/4GB of Crucial memory, immediately repartitioned it, upgraded to Leopard, migrated my apps/accounts/data over from my 2.7GHz G5 Tower (which has been running Leopard perfectly), and ran Software Update to bring everything current.
This Mac has not experienced any obvious video artifacts, or freezes while processing intensive video activity, but it is heavily customized. Here's the details:
I've attached an Apple 23" Cinema HD Display for dual displays, a G-Tech 750GB FW800 drive for Time Machine, and a Kensington USB 2.0 powered hub to attach all my USB stuff (Harmon/Kardon SoundSticks, SanDisk memory card reader, extra Mighty Mouse, USB dock for iPhone, Canon LiDE 30 scanner, USB connection to APC Back-UPS RS 1500). I retired my old USB 1.1 hub, since I knew it would be problematic with the new system, as would be my old USB Serial Adapter.
From a software viewpoint, I have iWork '08, iLife '08, Adobe CS3 Suite, MS Office 2004 11.3.9, Indigo 2 (home automation control software), Meteorologist, and all the other usual Apple software. At login, I have Mail, Indigo 2, iTunes, iPhoto, iCal, Address Book, Meteorologist, and Activity Monitor startup, then share iTunes and iPhoto over the local network. I also share my data volume over the local network, as this new iMac is replacing our old Windows 2003 server as a home media/data repository.
To add to the mix, I'm also running SereneSaver Quicktime movies as Desktop backgrounds cycling every 5 minutes on both displays (although it only displays the first frame of the video on the secondary display). I was also running MacKiev's 3D Atlas Globe screen saver (displaying the latest satellite cloud cover) until I found it was locking up the new iMac in about 3 hours (with SereneSaver also running). Needless to say, this all ran perfectly on the old G5 Tower, even with its ancient ATI Radeon 9800 Pro (128MB) video card. And finally, in addition to the regular .Mac/iDisk updates, and the hourly Time Machine backups, and the quarter hour Meteorologist weather updates, and the every 5 minutes Mail updates, I was using Spaces to sort out all the windows that I wasn't hiding.
I knew I probably brought over some conflicting software, since this was a migration from a PPC Mac to an Intel iMac, so when things froze, I assumed it was a compatibility issue, and proceeded to start trashing obviously unnecessary stuff from the system/root/user libraries. I also assured everything that was running was current. Over a couple of days I thought I had pretty much found everything I could think of that might crash the new iMac (including old Symantec frameworks, MS Virtual PPC stuff, old auto startup Retrospect stuff, and the like). I tested all my apps, reran the Leopard 10.5.1 combo update, Repaired Permissions, Verified Disk (with Disk Utility), booted up from a Tiger 10.4.11 volume and checked the Leopard startup with DiskWarrior 4.0, and then ran Apple's Hardware Test from their iMac startup DVD. In the end, I was able to keep the new iMac up and running continuously performing its assigned chores for over 37 hours.
Then, yesterday afternoon in mid-post to one of these threads, my shiny new iMac froze up. No warnings of any kind. In mid-breath it simply stopped working. The blinking colon in the menu clock stopped, the Activity Monitor CPU history graph updating in the Dock stopping updating, neither mouse would move, pressing any combination of keys on the keyboard I could think of would not interrupt the iMac from its pause. So, I sucked it up and pressed the power button to restart.
Upon restart, I checked the Console logs, and of course, nothing untowards was identified there. Whatever froze up the iMac happened immediately. A close Apple contact of mine immediately suggested it sounded like a hardware issue. I didn't think so, but I took his advice anyway and reinstalled Leopard in a virgin partition on the internal hard drive, along with iWork '08, iLife '08, and all the latest Apple updates, again. I did not install Adobe CS3, since its installer disk doesn't finish properly in Leopard, and I didn't want to install Tiger first, then all it's updates, then CS3, then all its updates, then Leopard again. I just want to confirm, or not, that I'm having an obscure hardware issue.
Today I'm running the virgin installation (now 16 hours into the test) to see if I can crack the 37 hour barrier. If I make it to two full days, I'll be pretty confident that I must still be having software issues with my standard startup configuration. Of course, I'm not currently running any non-Apple software, and there's no legacy stuff on this startup partition, other than the music and photos I copied over from my data partition for sharing over the network at home. I'm also foregoing Indigo 2 controlling stuff around the house, and the great SereneSaver Quicktime movies playing soothing videos (beach scenes, peaceful lakes, mountain vistas, etc. with background sounds) as my Desktop background.
So, if this basic, virgin configuration locks up in the next day or so, my next step is to pull the Crucial 4GB of memory and put the standard Apple 2GB back in, and wait another couple of days. If that locks up, then it's a call to AppleCare. If not, then it's a call to Crucial to replace their memory modules.
My question is whether anyone else with a simpler configuration, and no obvious video issues (as confirmed by Software Update not offering the video firmware update), is experiencing any spontaneous freezes?
At this point, it's still premature to think I have a hardware issue, but if I do it should manifest itself with this basic, virgin installation.
More updates later...I have been experiencing a Restart/Shut Down reliability issue with my new iMac and Leopard 10.5.1. This evening an Apple rep I know pointed me to a work-around in Apple Discussions:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=5957261�
This thread notes the discovery by one user that iDisk automatic syncing is not working reliably, and is preventing consistent restarting/shutting down of your Mac. Although, syncing has been working reliably for me both for .Mac stuff, and the iDisk itself, if you do a Get Info on your iDisk it reports, at least for me, that its capacity is 1TB, with 466GB available. I have only the standard 10GB .Mac account, and only 5GB of that is allocated to my iDisk, so something is clearly amiss with the .Mac iDisk setup (iDisk Get Info reports correctly on my G5 Macs w/Leopard), as being reported from the .Mac server. If you check your Console logs, you may also see this recurring error message, which is reporting a syncing error, although my syncs have, as I've said, been working correctly:
11/25/07 9:11 PM FileSyncAgent192 MKCOL /.FileSync (FAILED), httpStatusCode:405, errorType:100, transactionState:5, txnId:3846B904-9ABB-40E5-9928-B9233FAC05D2, auto-retries=0, manual-retries=0
To summarize, if you turn off your iDisk in your System Preferences/.Mac/iDisk preference pane, you'll have no problems restarting/shutting down. You may also need to do the power management reset (turn off Mac, unplug all devices and power for 15 seconds, reconnect, and start up) and the parameter RAM reset (reboot while holding down the cmd-opt-P-R keys). You can do this in one restart cycle, if you like. After that, restarts/shutting down has worked perfectly for me.
Of course, I actually USE my iDisk, and will be leaving it on. But, at least I know now how to work around the restart/shut down issue. (Note: this morning my iMac running my full/standard configuration locked up, after the iDisk mounted/unmounted repeatedly during the evening, so I rebooted and switched iDisk syncing to manual. More to follow...)
I hope Apple adds this fix to their 10.5.2 update next month.
Note: This is such an important issue, that in addition to adding it to a reply in another Shut Down thread, I thought I'd post it as a separate topic here. -
I did the configuration of my new Imac and entered and confirmed my password when asked.
When my computer is switched of, I can startup with this password but after going into sleepmode, this password doesn't work.
The same when I go to "system preferences" users & groups, it's not possible to unlock the lock with this password
I'm sure that I never used another password.If Apple was the one that replaced the ribbon cable, return it. If not, run AHT (Apple Hardware Test).
Using Apple Hardware Test to troubleshoot a hardware problem
Your issues might be caused by a hardware problem. Running Apple Hardware Test can help you solve this problem by showing you the faulty hardware.
Shut down the computer by going to Apple () > Shut Down…
Select Shut Down or allow the computer to shut down automatically.
Plug in the MagSafe power adapter into a power source and then connect it to your Mac if you have not already done so.
Press the Power Button to turn on the computer.
Press and hold the D key on the keyboard before the grey starting screen appears.
Continue to hold the D key until the loading screen shows up. You should see a globe.
When AHT has loaded, select your Language and then press the Return (↩) key.
Select the Perform Extended Testing checkbox located under the Test button.
Press the T key, select the Test button, or press the Return (↩) key to start running the diagnostics.
Report any issues it shows in a reply.
I hope I helped.
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