New internal power supply and iMac still not powering up

I recently purchased a new internal power supply for my Intel iMac and after being installed by a local Mac repair shop it still will not power up.
Are there any other issues that could cause an iMac not to start up? The logic board?

I did try to reset the PRAM and SMC before the iMac went completely kaput. But now, even with a new power supply, it won't even turn on. Maybe my replacement power supply is damaged somehow. But the repair shop said my original power supply looked like it was in good condition. Maybe they can test the original one somehow?
So my question is still: If the power supply is good, and if the hard drive is good, but the computer will still not turn on, what is left? Could the logic board be the only remaining culprit here? Are there other factors that could cause my iMac to not start up?

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New power adapter and battery, still not working?!

A couple days ago, my macbook stopped charging. The power adapter was plugged in, but there was no indication that it recognized it or was charging, so I figured it was a broken power adapter. I bought a new one, plugged it in, everything was fine - until the next day. The new power adapter stopped working as well. So, I go to the genius bar, and they tell me it's my battery. I buy a new battery and plug in the new charger. Everything's working again, until I unplug the power adapter to move my laptop into another room - and now it's not charging again! I tried every power outlet, and something is definitely wrong with the macbook itself. I'm pretty frustrated since I've now spent $200 on new stuff and the problem still isn't resolved.
Does anyone have any ideas?

A, I love Alexia Potatoes--I think I'm having some garlic mashed with dinner tonight.
B, Have you downloaded and applied this firmware update?
http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1311
Before you do so, you may want to try just a plain old SMC reset:
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht3964
Good luck!

Pt880,p42.6, enermax power supply and system still shuts down

hey my system is very unstable. i just bought the enermax power supply from newegg that everyone here was talking about. my system now turns on but its very unstable. i still have my buddy's 2.6 northwood chip and i dont know why my system is so unstable? what to do now? Help

It shuts down when when i try to open a web page or close out a web page or open my documents. Just very unstable. I just bumped my ram voltage to 2.7 and it seems stable. Hasnt shut down in 10 minutes. I also lower my fsb to 100 becuase it was at 101 which was making my cpu run at 2620mhz not at the standard 2600mhz. Hope this is the problem and thanks for help danny.

I have a 1st Gen Time Capsule 1tb. It turns on, boots up and turns green for 5-10 mins, but then turns solid orange and then blinks orange. I have removed the hard drive and replaced the power supply . . . still the same problem. Suggestions?

I purchased a used 1st Gen Time Capsule with a 1 tb hard drive.
When I plugged it in and did the initial setup, it worked fine, but gave me a hard drive error. A few minutes later the green light turned solid orange, then blinking orange, then the status light went off. The lights in back stayed on.
I removed the hard drive and rebooted, it turned green for 5-10 minutes then reverted back to a solid orange, blinking orange, then went off.
Next I purchased a remanufactured internal power supply, and installed it (without the hard drive in). It turned green almost immediately. After about 15-20 minutes, I decided to try to install the hard drive again, booted it up, and tried to erase the hard drive with was working properly according to the software. It stopped erasing the disc after about 20 minutes and turned solid orange again, then blinking, then no status light (but back lights were still lit).
I'm a bit flabbergasted at this point, any suggestions on what to do next? I think i've pretty much replaced everything except the logic board, but can't seem to find any information on the symptoms of a logic board malfunction.
Thanks!!!!!!!

A Gen3 is identical board to a Gen4 although they have some differences in firmware and wireless card was updated on every model.. but a Gen3 is substantially faster than Gen1, Gen2 which also have identical boards.
You can with careful shopping get a Gen3 pretty cheap.
Most use a delta power supply which I think is a lot better than the flextronics used in most Gen1/2
You can sell back the parts to ebay.. people still would buy the power supply etc. Even just the case can be useful to a repairer.
But if the board is gone.. it is hard to repair.. not impossible.. but hard.
Gen 3 and Gen 4 are not without faults.
See this page.
https://sites.google.com/site/lapastenague/a-deconstruction-of-routers-and-modem s/apple-time-capsule-repair/new-issue-with-a1355-gen-3-tc
I have fixed it a different way.. by using the small converters you can buy in bulk from ebay for $1 each.. KIS3R33 .. they produce 3.3V at 2A peaking at 3A.. amazing.. I keep using them to replace onboard power converters by removing the inductor and simply power directly.. the end result has worked great. You can simply change the resistors around and get any output from 1v to 20v depending on input.
Is it worth doing it .. no of course not.. it will waste many more hours than $50 is worth.. but it is kind of fun that you can actually make things work again.
Here is a pic of the Gen 3 totally powered by me. All onboard power removed.
This was to track down the fault in the Gen3.. but I am kind of pleased that it ended up neat enough and reliable enough to work for more than a year.. the Gen3 still serves as a way to get Netflix via network for a friend running 24/7.
The units supply (from left to right)
1v, 1.1v, 3.3v, 5v, 1.8v
It is feed by 12v supply which is also directly connected to the hard disk.
So it is possible to fix.. !! Only got to be a bit crazy.

LEOPARD, BATTERIES, POWER SUPPLY and other power issues

Hello ALL!
Happy New Year!
In fact I feel a bit scary last two days. Never had this kind of feeling since LB replaced :-D My scare related to the topics i've read here about batteries and leopard. Later below i will write my questions specific.
I just summarise my problem:
1. With battery installed unplug from mains leads to instant shutdown like it is some desktop.
2. The battery now does not have LED indication at all even in system it comes up as 100 charged and System Profiler reads information from battery.
3. When In unplug the laptop from mains first time, the battery did not give any indication of level of charge before i plug it in mains, after that it started charging and system indicator was trying to calculate remaining time till the end of charge endless...
4. This battery was working fine since 3 years without significant reduction in capacity. Before yesterday it was enough power to watch 2-2.5 hours DVD.
5. Battery seem to be dead. Mind that it was no slow reduction in capacity (keeping charge)
6. I was making calibration with some regularity.
7. While sleep mode with leopard seems battery drains faster even for me seems general operation after upgrade became longer.
So my questions are:
1. Is my battery really dead and needs replacement?
2. If yes, what are the symptoms of normal dying of battery?
3. Regarding all the posts which incline to Leopard as main cause of dying batteries should I run to buy a new one ....
4.... or it is hardware problem which lays in DC in board (heard also about battery board) which was discussed here but nobody directly gave indication that it was real cause of the problem?
5. Is it possible that even the battery will be brand new when i plug it in laptop it will die if it something related to hardware?
Thank you very much even for some smallest but helpful suggestion.
Ivan
PS: I am not in USA and not in any closest distance to Apple Store genius, most of my friends now on MB or MBP or iMac so even have nobody to try battery on exchange or even power adapter.

You didn't answer Illaass question, the newer minis have an internal power supply and should be connected directly to your mains, older ones have an external "brick". Since you mention the internal power supply, I guess your mini is one of the former, 120-240 V mains connected directly to the computer. If so, it should not be a problem using the tv power cord, if you actually have one of the older minis I don't see how you could connect the tv power cord, the contacts are really different.
So, if you have a new mini without power brick between the mains outlet and your computer, there should be no problem using any other mains cord, provided the contacts are the same. These power cords are massmanufactured by several manufacturers according to intnational standards and freely exchangeable.
Mikael

Does the Ipod touch third generation have an international power supply?

does the Ipod touch third generation have an international power supply? Am going to travel in Europe and want to know if I need to use a convertor with it or if it has the international power supply and I can get by with the appropriate plug adapter.

They are charged via your computer's USB port. As long as you have a USB charger it will work with the Touch.

IMac G5 ALS not booting with new power supply and perfect capacitors

Hey guys. Just got this beauty yesterday for cheap. Came with the box, 2 of 4 Styrofoam inserts, the manual, the power cord, and the keyboard.
I was told it has a brand new power supply. When I plug it in, LED #1 on the motherboard comes to life. pressing the power button does nothing. I have tried everything: blowing out any dust, reseating all connectors, booting without RAM, adding a hard drive (did not have one), removing the optical drive, modem, and BT/ap card. The only sign of life is when I press the internal power button, and the light flickers. This is promising.
I did notice when it is plugged in, there is a high pitched whine coming from where the LED is. I hope this is not causing the problem.
All capacitors are perfect, and not burst or leaking. I had a 1.25ghz eMac with bad caps, so I know what they look like.
I removed the motherboard, and there is no sign of any fried component on either side. It looks like a brand new machine basically.
I was thinking of just getting another good logic board for it, as they are cheap, or ask a friend to recap the board anyway.
Anyone here know what could be wrong with it? I hope I did not just waste money on this. It was relitively cheap though.
Specs:
iMac G5 Revision B Ambiant Light Sensor model
1.8ghz G5
512mb of RAM
combo drive
no HD (had 160gb originally)
airport/bluetooth combo card

Hey Lam,
The only sign of life is when I press the internal power button, and the light flickers. This is promising.
I did notice when it is plugged in, there is a high pitched whine coming from where the LED is. I hope this is not causing the problem.
I'm with Miriam on this one. That "new" supply sounds bad. Look very carefully inside the power supply (through the little perforations in the case) I'll bet you see caps w/ the same domed tops like you've seen before. That whine is also a symptom of a bad PSU. It's not even strong enough to power the soft start.
I've seen 2 20" and 3 17"ers recently. Replaced caps on 3 of the PSUs and got one to work on a 17" that belonged to a teacher so that went back. Swapped the working PSU from one of the 20s w/ a bad GPU into the one w/ a bad PSU. It's working but in a place where I can keep an eye on it since I don't trust it since the caps don't look good.
I've done this hack:
http://gallery.me.com/iamkimc#100033&view=grid&bgcolor=black&sel=12
and can get all the iMacs to work that way. Advantage - cheap, totals 1/3 or the replacement Apple part (used). Con - boxes outside the nice iMac case.
The auto laptop supply loads the Sparkle down too much for the 20" however. I'm working on finding an auto supply that saps less Amps or a simple voltage doubler for the 12V supply to solve that problem.
The ATX hack is pretty simple and only requires switching two 12V leads. Oddly one of the early versions of the 17"ers ran fine without the 20V inverter power. Go figure.
Richard

The Power Supply Fan is still working, but does not appear to respond to increased loads, and its speed cannot be increased using SMCFanControl. Any suggestions?

Hi all - My mac pro 1,1 has an enigmatic problem. It's quad-core, 3Ghz, running OS X 10.7.5. The problem began some months back, when running HD video conferences, HD streaming videos and some other graphics-moderate (I won't say intense) uses, such as slide shows in Just Looking. My machine has an ATY, RadeonX1900 card and 2 monitors - both Apple displays, one being 30 inch 2560x1600, the other being 24 inch 1920x1200.
When I start those types of graphics-moderate apps, after about 5 minutes, something would crash (the monitors making a noise as it did) and the displays would both go black. The power did not appear to be fully cut off from the monitors. I think that the underlying applications, however, did not crash. So, I could still hear and speak to people during video conferences, and I could hear the sound tracks of videos.
Attempts to restart the computer and get the monitors back did not immediately work to undo the problem, if done straight away. The only way to correct the problem (so as to have the monitors work) was to wait for a few minutes and then restart.
After a lot of puzzled looking at console logs (and I confess that I am not an expert), I ran into a blank.
But, because of the timing of the crashes (after ~5minutes use) and restarts (after some minutes wait), I reasoned that the problem might be temperature related.
Once on that path of thought, I found this article:
http://worldtv.com/blog/guides_tutorials/fixing_an_overheating_mac_pro_no_expens e_required.php
I installed both Temperature Monitor and SMCFanControl. And I experimented, and got interesting results:
Now to the puzzling bit: SMCFanControl shows that the speed of the Power Supply Fan doesn't vary much, even if I use SMCFanControl to ramp fan speeds right up. All of the other fans react to SMCFanControl, going up to and above 2500rpm when commanded. But the Power Supply Fan does not. Having watched it for a few days now, the Power Supply Fan, according to AFCFanControl, never varies outside of a range from about 600-640 rpm, regardless of what I do with AFCFanControl.
Also (and not surprisingly), whenever the graphics-moderate apps run, when I ramp all the fan speeds up using SMCFanControl, Temperature Monitor shows that the all of the temperatures within the machine plummet, except in the power supply locations. Power Supply Location 2 is the worst affected. Because the Power Supply Fan does not react as the other fans do, the "crashes" still occur.
I could post some screen shots of the read outs of SMCFanControl and Temperature Monitor, although I think I have covered the key points in this post.
It seems that the Power Supply Fan is still working, but does not respond to increased loads.
Instinctively, I'm worried that if that's right, it might be a hard problem to fix. Any suggestions? Help! I would really appreciate them!
Cheers
P

Thanks for your response Grant. I had already read about, and I think excluded, dust in graphics card/fan/assembly as a cause. The entire inside of the computer, including the graphics card/fan/assembly, is as clean as a whistle. It looks clean. I've cleaned the dust out every now and then (including a few days ago). Also, my undersanding (derived from the article, linked in my first post) is that I might expect to see high temperatures in the Northbridge and memory module B if the graphics card was overheating. According to Temperature Monitor, however, locations do not increase in temperature when I run the relevant apps. Finally, the graphics card/assembly does not feel too hot to touch.
It is strange that SMCFanControl lists the Power Supply Fan as being software controllable, if that fan is not. Still, your comments are consistent with my observations, as the fan simply does not respond to software control.
There are two upsides: First, I've something of a work-around. I've worked out what temperature must be achieved in Power Supply Location 2 for a crash to occur, and I can watch that location in Temperature Monitor, terminating the process before that treshold is reached. Of course, that's not ideal. Second, ramping all the other fans up does significantly delay the onset of the problem, and makes recovery time much quicker.
Is there any donwside to peridically ramping up the other fans when running the relevant apps? Given that it causes all of the other locations to cool significantly, could this lessesn the life expecancy of the mahcine? (I don't want to run the fans up all the time - that's like sitting next to a jet ready for take off!)
Also, a correction to my first post: Yesterday, with all the other fans running on full and running an HD streaming video, the Power Supply Fan did, eventually, slowly, come up to ~740rpm, which is much higher than the ~640rpm maximum I had previously seen, and this may have aided delaying the onset of the problem.
I'm not sure where this leaves me? The problem might now be able managed. Well, sort-of. But it's not eliminated.

New power supply and sleep light question

I just got my iMac back with a new power supply and logic board installed under the Apple repair extension program. I had diagnosed the problem using the Apple troubleshooting assistant online. When I did this I also reset the SMU (system management unit) per the instructions with the troubleshooting assistant.
My computer is now working correctly but when I run Software Update I am prompted to install the iMac G5 Sleep Light Update version 1.0. I had previously installed version 2.0.0 back in July/05. I don't have the ambient light sensor iMac. I am a little nervous about installing this version or reinstalling the version I alreay have in my utilities. I realize this is a firmware update and cannot be reversed.
Anyone else experience this with 2 different versions of the Sleep Light Update, I don't seem to be able to find any info on the Apple site.
Thanks for any info
Scott

"reinstalling the version I alreay have in my utilities"
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but if you have it in your utilities folder, I believe that means that the installer folder has been downloaded, but the install was not done. I am thinking that once installed, it disappears from the Utilities folder.
I see no reason why you would need to do that firmware update if you don't want it. In the future, if you or someone else wants to do the update, it'll still be available on the Apple website.

I just bought a new 10watt usb power charger and it says not charging?

I just bought a new 10watt usb power charger and it says not charging?

Maybe the charger is OK , but the cable may be damaged.

Ipod5 went dead , then i bought a new charger and its still not turning on ... it was working perfectly fine. i had it since may

ipod5 went dead , then i bought a new charger and its still not turning on ... it was working perfectly fine. i had it since may

Try:
- iOS: Not responding or does not turn on
- Also try DFU mode after try recovery mode
How to put iPod touch / iPhone into DFU mode « Karthik's scribblings
- If not successful and you can't fully turn the iOS device fully off, let the battery fully drain. After charging for an least an hour try the above again.
- Try another cable
- Try on another computer
- If still not successful that usually indicates a hardware problem and an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store is in order.
Apple Retail Store - Genius Bar

MDD power supply and fan upgrade kit question.

Hello, Its been a few years since I posted anything here and I'm getting ready to (possibly) trade in my mirror drive door 1GHZ dual processor machine on one of the current imac-s.
I'm not real hopeful that putting much work into my current machine is worth it. Here's why:
1) crazy levels of noise - I wear woodworking hearing protectors when I surf the web. Listening to music on itunes is fine so long as you like a background of low level blow dryer noise!
2) I'm still running OSX version 10.2.8, I have been too cheap to buy the latest OS. I'm tempted to go out and spend the $119 on 10.5 but I only have the original 256mb of ram installed and since the min requirement of ram is 512, I know I'll need to spend an extra ~50$ on a 512mb PC2700 ram chip. My price tag to do a minimal update is rising...
3) I would love to neutralize the noise and install the Apple provided MDD power supply and fan retrofit kit that they sent me at no charge several years ago while I was still under warranty. But I never did because the tech at my local (Dayton Ohio) reseller told me that the kit only addressed high noise levels when rebooting in OS9. So I never bothered. Looking on ebay, I see where power supplies for G4's could fetch 75 or 100$ or so.
In summary, here are my questions.
1) Has anything come along recently to tame MDD G4 fan noise that is easy to install, cost-effective and most of all, something that actually works to decrease the noise?
2) To get the quietest, quickest performance with the current OS 10.5 should I cut my losses now and trade (or sell on ebay) my MDD, sell the new power supply and just purchase a new machine with the OS already installed?
Thanks a bunch in advance for any assistance...
from Bill.

Bill,
Carl has some pretty good points that I'd agree with - trying the replacement PSU and fans should quiet it down somewhat and replacing the stock main fan with a newer, quieter unit will also help. But I'm going to disagree with him on running Leopard on the G4's with a few reservations.
As you might notice from my profile, I'm running Leopard on my dual-867 MDD and find the performance acceptable; perhaps a little slower than Tiger in some respects but it does run well enough within the limitations of the G4's capabilities. The reservation I have about recommending Leopard on a G4 is the graphics card - without Core Image support (which you won't have unless you upgrade the video card) Leopard is going to tax the CPU more and may bog down in some tasks like Quick Look and Cover Flow.
In the end, whether to continue upgrading the G4 is a matter of use and economics. Tiger would be a fine upgrade with minimal cost and squeeze a few more years out of your G4 if you're not requiring software that needs an Intel CPU (like certain iLife '08 apps).
-Douggo

Severe Incompatibility between Mac Pro 2012 power supply and Tripp Lite 2400 watt Line Conditioner [switching transformer].

Severe Incompatibility between Mac Pro 2012 power supply and Tripp Lite LC2400 [switching transformer].
The Mac Pro will not power on when connected to the Tripp Lite LC2400. The Power Supply makes continuous clicking noises and repeatedly resets the Mac Pro every 3 seconds.
The same Mac Pro connected to an outlet with no Tripp Lite starts up with no problem.

Hi,
I've the same notebook. I've not had any hardlocks so far, but I've not seen so much flash movies yet. Anyway, I just tried closing running youtube-video tab on Kde4 + enabled desktop effects -> Everything's fine.
Anyway, perhaps we can collect some issues and solutions in this thread. Here are problems, that I encounter:
- restart does not work
- errors during boot:
[ 2.399277] pnp 00:0b: [irq 23]
[ 2.399308] pnp 00:0b: Plug and Play ACPI device, IDs SMO8800 (active)
[ 2.932179] pnp 00:0c: can't evaluate _CRS: 12311
[ 14.616662] iTCO_wdt: Intel TCO WatchDog Timer Driver v1.07
[ 14.616771] iTCO_wdt: Found a Cougar Point TCO device (Version=2, TCOBASE=0x0460)
[ 14.616792] iTCO_wdt: cannot register miscdev on minor=130 (err=-16)
[ 14.616904] iTCO_wdt: probe of iTCO_wdt failed with error -16
[ 9.262898] sdhci-pci 0000:0b:00.1: SDHCI controller found [1217:8321] (rev 5)
[ 9.262920] sdhci-pci 0000:0b:00.1: PCI INT B -> GSI 18 (level, low) -> IRQ 18
[ 9.262966] sdhci-pci 0000:0b:00.1: Invalid iomem size. You may experience problems.
[ 9.263176] sdhci-pci 0000:0b:00.1: setting latency timer to 64
Issued solved:
- in order to make nvidia graphics working you have to disable Optimius in BIOS.
- Battery not recognized -- fixed after recend updates
- grub2 does not work. As soon as grub2 loads, the laptop reboots. -> stick to grub1 -- works now (either I did sth wrong the first time or a new version of grub2 fixes this issue)
- in order to make the touchpad work properly install psmouse-elantech from AUR
update: this is only a half-solution. vertical scrolling on the right edge works but graphical tools which rely on x11-input-synpatics still don't work. However, everything works fine with kernel 3.3. Once this in the main arch repos you won't need psmouse-elantech anymore.
Last edited by knue (2012-03-06 23:26:26)

Internal power supply

My computer has no power. Took it to Best Buy Geek Squad.They said internal power supply was not working, AC adapter is good. How can I identify that part and order one. Satelitte L355-S915

db5311 wrote:..Satellite L355-S915
No such model number. Check the full model name-number, and also give us its part number, from the Toshiba label on the bottom.
To the best of my knowledge, no such thing as an 'internal power supply' on a laptop. Maybe it needs a new battery? A new motherboard? Maybe you should double check exactly what the 'Geek Squad' diagnosis was.
Mike

Monitoring 3750x and 3560x Redundant Power Supply and Fans

I need help for monitoring the redundant power supply of my switches (3750x and 3560x)
I have configured my snmp on my switches and is able to monitor interfaces, temperature and etc.
The problem is when I am monitoring the redundant power supply and fans.
I am using two Cisco C3KX-PWR-350WAC Modular Power Supply per switch.
The OID I use to monitor the PSU are the following:
Power Supply 1
.1.3.6.1.4.1.9.9.13.1.5.1.3 Instance: 1003
Power Supply 2
.1.3.6.1.4.1.9.9.13.1.5.1.3 Instance: 1004
When I do an SNMP walk, the value is showing (1) which means normal.
When I simulate a power outage on power supply 1 or 2 by unplugging the power source, the value doesn't change and is still (1).
Values: normal(1), warning(2), critical(3), shutdown(4), notPresent(5)
As for the Fans:
When I remove the fan module, I am able to get a notification that the fans are down, but when I plug back the fan module it is now using a different instance.
Below is my config for SNMP:
snmp-server community XXXXXXXXXXXXXX RO
snmp-server location XXXXXX
snmp-server contact XXXXXX
snmp-server chassis-id Cisco3560X
snmp-server enable traps snmp authentication linkdown linkup coldstart warmstart
snmp-server enable traps transceiver all
snmp-server enable traps tty
snmp-server enable traps license
snmp-server enable traps cpu threshold
snmp-server enable traps syslog
snmp-server enable traps vlancreate
snmp-server enable traps vlandelete
snmp-server enable traps port-security
snmp-server enable traps envmon fan shutdown supply temperature status
snmp-server enable traps errdisable
snmp-server enable traps vlan-membership
snmp-server host X.X.X.X version 2c XXXXXXXXXXXXXX
Note: This problem is the same for all of my 3560X switches and 3750X switches. I am not sure if I am monitoring the wrong OID.
Thanks in advance

Hi ,
You are running an old IOS code , definitely you are hitting a BUG .
there is no workaround or I would say unfirtunetely you will not be able to get the correct power supply status via SNMP.
you need to use command line for this.
I mean "show env all "
**** if you want to know the Excat BUG that your code is hitting ,please contact TAC.
Thanks-
Afroz
**Ratings Encourages Contributors ****

New internal power supply and iMac still not powering up

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