New MacBook Alu or new MacBook Pro
Hello
I am considering buying a new MacBook. I hesitate between a MacBook Aluminium, or the new MacBook Pro. What are the differences, and in what the Pro is better? When looking at the specs, it looks like the MB Alu is faster (2.4GHz vs 2.26GHz), and has a bigger HD (250GB vs 160GB). So looks to me that the MacBook Alu is a better option.
Is there something important I'm missing?
Thanks
Laurent
Jay Bullock wrote:
Well, then. The Pros have two big advantages: FireWire and the longer-lived battery. The processor speeds don't mean that much in the real world, either, so except for the size of the HDD, I'd lean Pro.
The biggest difference I'd say is the longer battery. I believe the MBP have 7 hour battery lives. The Alu is lucky to get five. I also believe Apple promotes that it lasts longer in terms of long-term health.
The processor difference is a non-issue. You'll never, ever, ever be able to tell the difference between those two speeds doing average tasks. The HD size could be an issue if you have a lot of movies/music/pictures that take up a lot of room.
Similar Messages
-
Hi, hopefully I am on the right forum. I am a new mac user. I just bought Macbook Pro 13", 2.4 GHz, 4GB at my apple store. Running battery calibration here, is it safe to restart the computer after a software update? I am starting college in 2 weeks for summer class for culinary arts, art tech, art literature, computer science (w/ adobe photoshop cs4). Will the 13" Macbook Pro handle it well?
I've read several online forums, blogs about how the new alu macbook pros have connection issues with the internet? How do we prevent that from happening? I haven't noticed anything. I'm running wireless on it at the moment. Plus, what's a great ideal application for a college student? Or what do you guys all use for your macbook pros?Welcome CCY853 to the forums, and to your new Mac experience.
"is it safe to restart the computer after a software update?"
Absolutely, not an issue.
"Will the 13" Macbook Pro handle it well?"
You are in good hands.
"connection issues?"
I believe this has been resolved in the 10.6.3 update. Especially if it is currently not an issue for you.
"software?"
Extremely subjective here.
Have fun! -
Have a Macbook Pro and a 4th gen iPod Touch. Downloaded and install iOS 4.3.2 yesterday. Upgrade went without a hitch, but now iTunes on My Macbook Pro will not open. I get an error that says --The file "iTunes Library" cannot be read because it was created by a newer version of iTunes--. I am running iTunes 10.1. I searched for Updates to my MacBook Pro (running 10.6.7), but comes back saying no updates available. WHAT IS GOING ON??
Is your computer still authorized in the Store menu in iTunes?
iTunes Store: About authorization and deauthorization
When I changed to my new MacBookPro I had to authorize it although I used TimeMachine to transfer my settings and data.
Did you try to deselect Wi-Fi syncing and enable it again after that?
iTunes 10.5 and later: Troubleshooting iTunes Wi-Fi syncing
Did you already transfer your purchases and manually started a backup? -
This is regarding a brand new ASUS PA 279Q, 2560 x 1440 IPS monitor. I'm connected via mini display port (into thunderbolt port on MacBook Pro) to display port on ASUS monitor; using cable ASUS included with the monitor. Mid 2012 MacBook Pro…full specs at bottom of this post.
I have resolution set at 2560 x 1440 which is the native resolution according to the ASUS spec. I tried the other resolutions available in my System Preferences and text displayed rough with those settings too. I've tried adjusting contrast, brightness and sharpness via the ASUS control panel and didn't solve the problem. Also tried calibrating via Mac's system preferences/display and that did not improve text display either. All the text on this monitor (no matter what software I launch, Finder, InDesign, Illustrator, MS Word, Excel, VMWare Windows XP, Windows versions of Word, Excel, Acrobat, etc, all are consistently rendering text the same way --- ROUGH and with "HALOS" around each letter.
All point sizes of text and at various scales, display very rough on the screen. (My comparison is the retina display of my MBP and a Thunderbolt…so those two displays are my expectations.) I'm using the same MBP for both a Thunderbolt display (at work) and this ASUS at my home office.
On the ASUS it's not as noticeable when the text is on white backgrounds, but I'm a graphic designer and compose images with text all day everyday. Not to mention the specs on this ASUS PA279Q indicate it's built for the professional so I would expect better text rendering. I haven't even addressed color calibration and balance yet, because that won't matter to me if the text won't display any better than it is now.
I was so hopeful after researching all the specs on this monitor it would be a viable alternative to the glossy display of the Thunderbolt display. (Which, I do love the Thunderbolt display for it's clarity and how it displays crisp, clean text at all sizes. (This ASUS actually displays text decently if I increase the text so each letter is about 4" high. Which is pointless for practical purposes -- that'd be like doing page layout through a microscope!)
I kept holding off on getting a monitor for the home office thinking the Thunderbolt would be updated soon. I'd be sick if I dropped a grand on piece of 2011 technology only to learn a few days later an updated Thunderbolt display hit the market! Not to mention, I'm praying Apple comes out with a less reflective Thunderbolt display. The glare and reflection is the main reason I looked elsewhere for a large monitor; hence my asking for help. Hoping the ASUS text display issue can be worked out. My expectation is for it to display like the MBP retina and Thunderbolt display text. That possible?
Alternatively, I guess I could do the Apple Refurb Thunderbolt at $799. And see if there's a decent aftermarket anti-glare I could stick on it?
Thanks for reading my post. Hope someone can help; offer any suggestions? Words or wisdom?
Has anyone else had similar issues and figured out a resolution? Help!
MacBook Pro
Retina, Mid 2012, 2.3 Ghz Intel i7
8GB 1600 MHz DDR3
OS X 10.8.5
NVIDIA GeForce GT 650M 1024 MB
ASUS PA279QI uninstalled those two items. It still runs slow on start-up and when opening safari, firefox, iphoto, itunes, etc. It's not snappy like it used to be. Any other ideas? Thanks.
-
New External Monitor for Logic on MacBook Pro - Suggestions
I'm in the painful process of updating my studio and now my large screen external monitor has started failing.
I know if this a pretty general question more suited to the MacBook Pro forum but I'd like some input from folks used to working with an application like Logic in a home studio environment.
I guess the issue for me is that I'm not getting any younger and my eyesight isn't what it used to be. One of the things specific to Logic and music software in general is that there are LOTS of very detailed dialog boxes with text that is not always height adjustable (yes I know about zooming and indeed I do lots of that but it gets quite distracting). The other factor is that I'm often recording and engineering myself which means I'll be sitting with a guitar in my lap or at a keyboard and can't always lean in too close to the monitor.
I solved this by buying a large 26" Acer which sits on my desk behind the Mackie MCU. To my left I've got the MacBook 15.4" Pro on a keyboard stand above my MIDI controller at a 45 degree angle to the desk.
It's worked quite well until the Acer seems to have become haunted. It will mysteriously reboot itself intermittently, going blank for a second, then showing the Acer logo and going back to picture. It will also turn itself on spontaneously when the computer is off (the status light is off and then turns itself on). It seems to detect when I'm in the middle of a really good session and starts resetting itself every 30 seconds or so. Then it will work fine sometimes for days or weeks at a time. I've checked it on 4 different computers, it malfunctions on all. I believe in may be a problem with one of the capacitors or the inverter, I'm not sure, but it's driving CRAZY at this point.
And of course now it's 3 months out of warranty and may be more expensive to fix than buying a new one.
So my issue is what monitor to replace it with. I've considered buying an Apple monitor, since the display is lovely to look at but there are a couple things that are deal breakers.
It's expensive. Very expensive.
Oddly you have to choose between a 24" and a 30", with nothing in between. Don't want to sound like Goldilocks here, but the 24 is tooooo small and the 30 is tooooo big.
Yeah I know bigger is usually better but since they bumped the native resolution of the 30" up to 2560x1600 it's really sharp but things like the menu text get really quite small. Yes you can reset to a lower non native resolution, but then you loose the sharpness. I tested Logic in the store on the 30" and it did look great but I found I actually had to move my whole body around to see things at the top and bottom of the screen.
Oh and did I mention that it's expensive? Jeez.
The 24" now seems to look a bit small to me after using the same resolution (1920x1200) on the Acer's 26" screen. (Ok, I think it's actually 25.5 but hey that half an inch can make a big difference and I will avoid making any bad jokes here).
And did I mention the Apple monitors are expensive? The 24" is almost 3 times as expensive as a cheaper alternative.
I also still have a PC here that I use (sorry) and the Apple monitors have very limited connectivity. So I think unfortunately the Apple monitors are out for me.
So I;m down to a couple other non Apple options. I will not buy an Acer again since I believe now that their quality control is not good and their support is absolutely atrocious. Shame I used to be a big fan of Acer PC's, but after owning a couple I'm steering clear.
My biggest issue right now is that most of the new budget monitors are geared toward 1080p HD uses so they are they are maxing out at 1920x1080 (16:9 aspect ratio instead of 1920x1200's 16:10). So the tradeoff here is that HD movies will look better in 16:9, but 16:10 gives you "squarer" pixels and more vertical resolution for screen hungry apps like Logic.
Any opinions on this? I'm a bit new to the Mac so I don't know if I'm really better off going with a 1920x1200 screen like the Apple monitors.
Also, I know this may just be a bug in the Acer's scaling, but if I switch to 1920x1080, I lose the menus off the top of the screen or if I adjust the vpos I lose the dock at the bottom. Downscaling to 1600x1050 or even 1024x768 works fine. If I get a 1080 screen and set the resolution appropriately will it work correctly and without too much distortion?
I'm also curious what is the best way to hook up the monitor? I'm currently using the DVI to VGA adapter that came with the MacBook. My Pro is the slighter older silver keyboard model so it has the standard DVI out. Will I see any real improvement by going over to using DVI directly?
Also I'm wondering how people feel about glossy vs matte for music. My current displays are the non-glossy and I do think I prefer them for detail work.
The candidates right now are
Hanns-G HH-281HPB 28" @300$. It's one of the only budget monitors that uses 1920x1200. All the right inputs (DVI, VGA). I'm just afraid this might be a bit too good to be true. It's really cheap and after having problems with a "cheap" Acer (although it wasn't so cheap 3 years ago!) I don't want similar problems. Stand has no swivel or tilt (a big problem for my use). Also that resolution on such a big screen might be good for me or it might look grainy I don't know I haven't seen it. Anybody have any experience with these?
Samsung P2770H 27" @339 Looks nice, good color. Sadly only 1080 native resolution. Stand doesn't swivel, but does tilt. No VGA input, so won't work with my old PC (although strangely it says it comes with a VGA cable). They get generally good reviews and I know Samsung makes very good flat panel TV's.
ViewSonic X Series VX2739WM 27" @350. Once again maxes out at 1080. It's fast (1ms), has VGA input. I've never been a big fan of ViewSonic but they do seem to have gotten better color-wise. Tilt no swivel and it's anti-glare (not sure this is a plus).
There are also similar options from HP, Asus, LG and Sceptre but they are all 1080. In fact outside of the Apples, the Hanns-G and a few expensive monitors from NEC they all seem to be 1080. So if I really want the 1200 the Hanns-G seems like the only way to go.
Any input here would be greatly appreciated.No doubt, the Apple displays are gorgeous. The first time I saw the 30" display wow, I wanted one BAD and it's actually what prompted me to buy a "big" monitor. The colors are great with a rich wonderful saturation level and as usual for Apple the form factor design is stunning. You know for that picture quality I could even get over the sticker shock and save up for one.
Which is why I was so disappointed when I actually sat down in the store and started to use Logic on one. I imagine for doing video work, graphic design or darn near anything else, it would be great. But for Logic I just found myself bending and twisting trying to look at toolbar at the bottom and then up to look at the menus. And instrument or plugin displays that were hard coded to look OK at lower resolutions looked really, really tiny to me. For me and particularly using Logic having 2 slightly smaller displays at a 45 degree angle makes more sense.
And once again the 24 seems just a bit small. I don't understand why they have a 27" iMac but you can't buy a 27" display. So iMac 27" starting at 1699, subtract out the cost of the CPU and drive ie the Mini and I'd really buy one. Strangely you can buy a 21.5" or a 27" iMac. Or you can buy a 24" or 30" display. Hmmmm.
So don't get me wrong I'm not bashing Apple for being expensive. They put a lot of money into R&D and into really thinking about the form and the function of their products. As a recent convert from being a PC developer for 25+ years, hey I've more than sipped the Kool-Aid here, I've guzzled it. They make great products and yeah they're more expensive, because they ARE better! I've now got 2 MBP's, 2 iPods, I'm about to get an iPhone (silly "death grip" or not) and I really want an iPad. Heck I'd really love an 8 core MacPro if I could afford one (alas I can't).
I guess my only gripe here is that there always seems to be a little less choice in the Apple world. Yeah, I know they do a lot less volume than the PC clone world I just think that they always seem to have a big gap between the high end and low end with not enough in between. So you can choose between the lower end and one piece units with no expansion boards (the mini or the iMac) or go straight to monster tower MacPro (way over 3K with display). You can get a MacBook but then you have to put up with a small screen or go with MacBook Pro, which let's face it is a lot of computing power for someone who just wants to web surf and write some email without squinting.
So here I am stuck in the middle. I don't want to buy a HannspreeQG or another piece of junk that's going to last 3 years and 3 months because of a crappy $2 capacitor that no seems to able to fix or care about fixing. I'd like to buy a really nice Apple monitor, I just want a big monitor, not a huge one and not a "medium" one (I know I'm spoiled but 24" seems "medium" these days).
Sorry about the rant here but my monitor is shutting down every 30 seconds and I'm about to go completely insane and toss it out the window!!!
Really glad to hear about that 84' VGA cable. I never imagined such a thing existed or would work without some sort of signal boost on the way. Very cool for me. My electronic drum kit is in another room and I would love to have a small cheap monitor next to it for sequencing. I had my laptop on a stand next to it for a while but I began to get terrified that I'd let a drumstick slip and destroy my laptop screen. That would be a very bad thing. Thanks for the tip. -
I have an older mackbook pro circa 2009, i thought it died on me it just went completely black. I later found out just a bad battery i purchased a new one in the interim. Now that i have discovered the problem i bought an older time capsule and backed up the older macbook i now want to transfer my personal files to my new macbook pro to maintain one personal mackbook. How can i move the files from my time capsule to my newer macbook pro?
thank you in advance for your help!!http://manuals.info.apple.com/en_US/iphone_user_guide.pdf
-
I am trying to transfer files between my ipad 3 and my macbook pro mid-2012 and they will just not connect. I connected them yesterday and it worked fine. And i can not air drop these files into my ipad it has to be done through itunes. And i can not afford to buy a new computer. How do i get these two to connect without having to buy a completely new computer?
Computer USB ports, regardless of the computer maker, have a relatively low power output and thus are not good chargers. They will charge but it takes a long time. You should be charging your iPad from wall power, or a more powerful source like an in-car charger.
Buying another computer will not change that. -
My new Macbook Pro (or how I got an heart attack but refused to die)
I have been using linux for many years now, and have had some really good experiences with it. The good thing is that you can do whatever you want in linux, the bad thing is that it takes so much time. For many years this wasn't a problem, but since I started studying music I've been pretty busy with touring and recording, and configuring linux takes too much time. Therefore, I was advised to buy a Mac, and so I did. It took two weeks to arrive, and I barely slept those weeks, because after reading about the new Macbook Pros(mid 2009) on the Apple webpage I was stoked. When I got it I almost **** myself! I was so happy when I got it! The first bad thing I noticed was that you could easily push the left side of the undercover down a little, which didn't make it as solid as I thought it would be. But, that was just a little detail. The first thing I did after watching the intro video was to play around with it, and after half an hour, I heard the disk spin faster than usual, then stop, and then it made a beep. Strange, I thought, but went on to format it and reinstall Os X without much of the crap that followed it, so I could get more space, even though I had upgraded it so I had a 500gb 7200RPM hard drive. After reinstalling it I did the usual stuff: add my mails to Apple Mail, get MSN, install music applications etc. During this, I would still get that faster spin, followed with a stopping of the hard drive, and a beep. Still strange, and now even annoying, but I thought that it's alright. A few days later I did a test recording with my jazzband, and we did an amazing recording! As it was all improvised, we were very happy to have it recorded. What we discovered when we played it back though, was that it made a strange noise several places in the recording. I didn't know what it was, but I was really ****** that it ruined the recording. A few days later I was recording something on my midi-keyboard internally, and then I heard that spin and beep again. When I played back the recording I heard that noise just where the beep had been, so I just figured that when the hard drive spins and beeps, it have a hard time saving what's being recorded, and therefore it ends up being noise. I got ****** off, as I had spent 2660USD(with student discount) on a machine so that I wouldn't have any problems, but ended up having one anyways. I called AppleCare and explained the problem, and they said that they would call me back with a solution. Three days later I got a phone, and they told me that it was because the hard disks get put to sleep after some time, and puts something on the hard drive to protect it, and that's what's making the noise. My answer was:
1. IF that was the case, how come you make it like that, so the hard disks are put to sleep when active, like when you are recording?
2. IF that was the case, how come you make it like that, so it makes a noise in the recording when they are put to sleep? and
3. That's not the case, as I don't have that option enabled, both with or without power supply.
He didn't have any answer to this, and said he would call me up later. Three days later he called me up and told me that the noise was most probably because of noise caused by ground loops. I told him that I have read a little about it, and that it most likely wasn't that, but he still sent me an informative mail on how to fix it. I read it, and followed it, but as expected: nothing got better. I told him that, and he said that he would look into it - after two weeks of vacation. As I start my study on August 11. and are going to record from about that date, I can't wait, so today I called AppleCare and spoke to another guy. He let me wait 20 minutes on line(my expense, ofcourse), before saying that they didn't have an answer now, but would call me back tomorrow.
I also bought a Mighty Mouse with the Macbook Pro. I was well aware of the fact that it isn't configured for right click, so I configured it when I plugged it in, but still right click wouldn't work. I called AppleCare and explained, and the guy told me that "it is a very special mouse". He explained how to use it, what I already knew, and as I didn't have more money to call with, the phone ended the call. Needless to say, it still isn't working properly. The right click works every now-and-then, and the buttons on the side works once a week.
As I already told you, I am a musician. After not having to spend times fixing things, like in linux, the music software was the biggest reason I got a Mac. I bought Logic Studio, and was amazed when I got it. It was great! ...for 20 minutes, then I got this overload message, despite the fact that I had two tracks with a couple of loops, and a brand new computer. This bugged me very much, but what was worse was the fact that two weeks later, the new version of Logic came out, and I got no discount on upgrading.
As you might understand, I am starting to get really ****** off. I called Eplehuset, the most official Apple reseller in Norway, and they told me it would take two weeks to fix my Macbook Pro, and that I wouldn't get a machine while waiting. Since I start in the university in 8 days, I can't do that. I just have to load off some of my rage here, and I also hope that you have some tips on how to fix the hard drive.My eyes just glazed over...Please in the future break down each of your issues with paragraphs separated by two carriage returns. It would be much easier when trying to address your issues.
Go to Apple menu -> System Preferences -> Keyboard and Mouse -> Mouse
And edit your mouse settings to do what you want it to do.
Secondly, this is not the place to vent. If you have a complaint, there is:
http://www.apple.com/feedback/
or http://www.apple.com/contact/
We are just end users here helping other end users.
Third, from my understanding, it would appear you are concerned about the noise the hard drive makes when it falls asleep? Why not put your machine in screen saver mode instead? Apple menu -> System Preferences -> Energy Saver turn off all Energy Saver settings, or set them to run Never.
Fourth, if your machine was purchased just a few days ago, you may still be able to get an exchange from the store, quicker than you can get a repair done. You may want to look into that possibility.
Fifth, it does appear you found the Logic forum. I would persist in asking there how to solve your technical issue with Logic regarding the audio. It may be you don't have to do anything special to the hard drive. Remember audio can be transmitted by wire, avoiding ambient sounds.
Good luck! -
Recently, my mid-2009 MacBook Pro has been crashing when I close the screen ("it's having a problem recognizing when the screen is closed/open and deciding what to do, error overload etc."). It wasn't an SMC issue so I took it to an Apple Store, ran some tests, and decided my hard-drive is failing.
Not wanting to spend an insane amount of money on some "official apple hard-drive," I want to install a new 256GB SSD instead. Hoping to squeeze as much life out of this computer as possible (in January I upgraded from 4 GB RAM to 8 GB), I would like to try and start from scratch, i.e. back-up important folders, music, photos etc. and only take that to the new hard-drive. If someone could explain all the steps I need to take to safely complete this task (or point me in the direction of a guide) I'd appreciate it.
Potentially Important info:
Model: mid-2009 13'' MacBook Pro
Processor: 2.53 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
Memory: 4 GB 1067 MHz DDR3
Software: OS X 10.8.4
Some additional questions I have...
Should I be concerned with making a fully bootable back-up (not sure what that is called) as well? If so, what program should I use to create it?
How much more life should I try and push out of this computer? I'm an engineering student and really only use it for web-surfing, music, and
word-processing. The batter was replaced in March, the RAM was upgraded to 8 GB in January. When the battery was swapped, the trackpad went nuts so that's new too. Only other issues are a slightly loose audio jack and the left side of the screen being slightly wobbly (hinge is worn I'm told).cwgonzalez1192
Should I be concerned with making a fully bootable back-up (not sure what that is called) as well? If so, what program should I use to create it?
How much more life should I try and push out of this computer? I'm an engineering student and really only use it for web-surfing, music, and
word-processing.
Well there is no "official Apple HD / SSD" in any regard, no worries there.
If as you say youre only using same for surfing and word processing, why the need for a SSD? You would not notice any speed diff. in use on either of those,....in boot times yes, but in word or surfing, not.
You can push it likely a few more years, for mere surfing and word processing,...many many years. Up TO the point that any major fixes become unrealistic relative to getting a new(ER) machine.
Concerned with a boot clone? yes and no. Its an ideal immediate recovery, since you cannot boot from Time Machine, ....in case of HD crash, recovery takes seconds from boot, or 20 mins or so from removing old and installing a clone. All the prosumers and pros have at least one updated clone of their prime machines.
You can do a "fresh install" if you choose, however if your current drive is FINE, why not merely clone it and save yourself some headache?...., but that is your prerogative of course. Ideally 2 drives, one to backup your data (you need that regardless of installing a new drive for sake of a backup/archive,...ideally 2 actually, not merely one).
You could clone internal to NEW SSD/HD , ...then offload unnecessary files to an external to free up space and clutter and run off the clone, and this would only take a couple hours......the clone itself takes approx. 40+ mins.
CLONE Apps :
Superduper does not clone the recovery partition, but that is NOT necessary if you keep the original HD as a “backup clone”. Most don’t bother with the recovery partition in a clone, however that is your prerogative.
http://www.shirt-pocket.com/SuperDuper/SuperDuperDescription.html
(Free superduper APP above)
CCC App
http://www.bombich.com/ -
Use back up from Time Machine to start new MacBook Pro
Using the Time Machine and an external Hard Drive I back up my 3 years old MacBook (running Lion and with hard drive of 250 GB)
I am planning to purchase a new MacBook Pro (with a hard drive of 750 GB)
how do I transfer all my software and Data to my new computer?
if I plug my Time Machine to it will set up my new computer just the way I have my old Computer?
will all software work properly?
Any thing else I should have in Consideration??K2spuky wrote:
Using the Time Machine and an external Hard Drive I back up my 3 years old MacBook (running Lion and with hard drive of 250 GB). Will all software work properly?
The old machine is running Lion already, then all your programs are ready already for the new machine with Lion.
how do I transfer all my software and Data to my new computer?
if I plug my Time Machine to it will set up my new computer just the way I have my old Computer?
Plug the TimeMachine drive into the new computer, boot it and when you go through the setup there will be a opportunity to transfer from the TM drive.
Shouldn't be a problem as your already on Lion.
Of course if your older machine software is crappy and slow, so will your new machine.
You might decide to fresh install instead, create the same user on the new machine then install all your programs from fresh original sources and then transfer files manually from the older machine, droppping the contents right into the same user folders as on the old machine.
More work, but actually saves work if your older machine is screwed up. Because Setup and Migration assistant has no brains, it transfers crap just as well as the good stuff. and despite what it says, it seems to transfer programs even if you state you just want files. Why I don't know, it's what someone said.
I never use either, because reinstalling the whole OS again, especially Lion with the Internet download, is not worth the chance. I'd rather download a few programs and transfer manually, takes about the same amount of time. -
I just got to school after getting a new screen put on my 13in macbook pro. when i opend up my macbook there was only a apple simble and the loading sing with a bar at the botton it took fovere to load, one it loaded and opend up there was a few options to pic from saying i could get all my datata back, i got confused and called the tec support where they wanted me to spend 90$ to back up my data, i feel as if they fixed my screen my data should be there when i go on it. I am a broke colage studend and need to get my work done. To sum it all up How do i get all my data back that happend to get lost while my screen was being repaird at the apple store?
Apple has a 90 warranty warranty on all of their repairs. You should take your computer back to the repair shop. Or call Apple Customer Relations (800) 767-2775. Wait for a human to come on the line and ask politely and firmly that you want to be transferred over to the Customer Relations department. Tell them your issue.
pakoning wrote:
I am a broke colage studend
Hard to believe with all the typos in your post! -
What is the exact name of the cable I need to connect my old hard drive from my macbook pro, which has been removed from the computer, to my new macbook pro? I need to transfere files from the old hard drive to the new computer.
No eSATA to USB. Just a SATA/IDE to USB adapter. Google SATA/IDE to USB adapter and you will get tons of links to buy them. Most likely your local computer electronics store has them, although they might be more expensive buying locally than online.
I have several. You can get either USB 2, which what I recommend, or USB 3. USB is backward compatible so a USB 3 adapter will work on a USB 2 port and a USB 2 adapter will work on a USB 3 port. Backward compatible in both directions.
I suggest a USB 2 type because there have been some problems with certain USB 3 devices, the USB 3 interface used isn't all that good in those certain devices. USB 3 is still fairly new where as USB 2 has been around for over 10 years.
synghem wrote:
Thank you LowLuster,
At the apple store they said I needed an esata to usb wire. But looking at wires on line has been confusing. Is sata the same as esata? How do I know if I need a usb 3 or usb 2? -
I bought a new 13" MacBook Pro with retina (mid 2014). It didn't have pages, keynote, numbers and garageband pre installed. I managed to install all except garageband. How can I get that installed without having to pay for it since it was supposed to have come preinstalled?
Click here and contact Apple.
(126910) -
Where can I buy a larger hard drive for my late 2008, 15" macbook pro? From reviewing questions and answers on the support community it would appear that having Apple remove the old and install the new hard drive is recommended. But how/where?
Welcome to Apple Support Communities
You can install the new hard disk yourself if you want to. You just need a 2'5" SATA II hard drive, which is compatible with your MacBook Pro. You can buy one at OWC > http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/hard-drives/2.5-Notebook/ You can filter hard drives by computer, so press a "Click to view all...", choose your computer in the sidebar and it will give you the compatible hard drives.
There are different brands for the MacBook Pro. The most recommended are HGST and Seagate, which have good reputation. A 7200 rpm hard drive will give you extra performance -
How do I install software from a disc on to the new Macbook Pro?
I recently purchased the new Macbook Pro Retina Display, which I love. But just went to install my Photoshop CS5 and realised there's no disc option. What do I do?
Buy ANY External DVD drive that connect to a USB port. Like this one.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135256&nm_mc=TEMC-RMA-A pprovel&cm_mmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel-_-Content-_-text-_-
You do not need the expensve Apple Superdrive.
Maybe you are looking for
-
StarWalk compass stopped working with their most recent update.
My favorite application on my iPad used to be Starwalk. Ever since their most recent update on April 30, the internal compass stopped working (which is basically the backbone of the entire app). I contacted Vito technology (the developer) - it took a
-
10.7 client .dmg creation for deployment questions.
Please forgive me if this question is in the wrong forum. I've been doing searches online and in the 10.7 Peachpit books (client and server) and I can't seem to find the info I am looking for. I am trying to create a 10.7 .dmg to use on new Macs my c
-
How to turn off shadow clipping in photoshop? Not in ACR
I have CS5, it crashed and when I restarted program, all the actions were missing and now in photoshop there is a clipping warning in shadows, like dark blues. I know how to turn off clipping in ACR but this is in Photoshop. Any ideas what is going
-
Hi Gurus , I am facing a problem in which PO is not coming back to the person through email which created that PO though it is outputted to Vendor for whom the PO is created. Please tell where we mention the email address of the person . In tcode su0
-
HT203433 I can't consistently disable automatic downloads from iTunes
I keep trying to disable automatic downloads from iTunes (don't want TV shows I've purchased through my Apple TV to download onto my computer), by going to iTunes - Preferences - Store - and it works for a while, then it starts to automatically downl