New Macbook Pro vs. the Apple Wireless Keyboard - delayed key action
Ever since I've had the latest (not retina version) laptop, my wireless keyboard doesn't have the same response time between stricking the key and the action showing on my screen. My usual reaction is to reboot (turn off then back on) the keyboard, which resolves the problem temporarily. It seems to get worse if I haven't used the computer in an hour or so. I've run software update and haven't seen anything that indicates a link to the problem. Thoughts?
oh, im using the one that has no numeric keypad. Maybe something is interferring the Bluetooth, it's best to visit a Genius bar to check what really is the problem
Similar Messages
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Trying to buy pages and numbers on my new macbook pro, and the apple store is asking me security questions of which I've never answered. It's indicating that my answers are wrong. Any help would me great!
Welcome to the Apple Community.
Contact Apple through iTunes Store Support -
I just dropped my new macbook pro on the ground, it dents a little. So can I bring it to apple store, and repair it for free? BTW: I bought it just one month ago. Thank you very much
No, user caused accidents are not warranty coverage, nor are spills, loss, theft etc.
all these user caused issues have no bearing on the warranty coverage.
they are outside of same.
All laptop mfg. are identical in this nature (same with your car too of course) -
Are the apple wireless keyboards and mac book pro keyboards the same size?
Are the apple wireless keyboards and the mac book pro keyboards the same size? I have the most current wireless keyboard and I use it with my iPad. Thanks in advance
I took it to the same shop where i purchased they sent it to the apple
service centre and it is a week and no one informed me abt the problem
or the action on it.
We are mainly just users to users here, and sometimes a Apple folk will respond, but it's just a direction to a Apple support document, no service or account issues are handled here.
Will they replace the mac book pro as it is still in warranty
We don't know what Apple will decide to do in your case, the best source of information is the shop you brought it to.
They might be in the process of fixing it, or they might be deciding they need to keep your machine for investigation.
Apple will take care of you, make sure you buy AppleCare and a external drive for TimeMachine if you haven't already. -
Hi, is it possible to buy an azerty-macbook pro in the apple store in New York? Thanks
Hi,
I was searching on the site of apple but I didn't found it.
Is it possible to buy an azerty macbook Pro in the apple store in New York?
Or do I need to order it?
Thanks,
Stéphanie DAsk them! (212) 336-1440
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Macbook Pro Retina - Use a wireless keyboard
Silly question, but I need the answer. Can the Macbook Pro Retina use the Apple Wireless Keyboard and then doc to a monitor via Thunderbolt? My idea is just like you would dock a pc, so to speak. I assume the answer to be yes, but need confirmation.
Thanks!Yes. You can use an external keyboard and monitor and even close the MBpro lid to operate in clamshell mode.
Here are the rules for clamshell mode:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3131 -
MacBook Pro + 1st Gen Apple Wireless (Bluetooth) Mouse = Headache
Hi there.
I have recently purchased a Wireless Apple Mouse (not the current Mighty Mouse model, but the original no scroll-wheel one) off a seller on eBay who shipped it to me, and is adament the item is in full working order. I however, am not convinced.
I have spent the last two days trying to get rid of the lag I have with the mouse. It is unbearable, completely impossible to use. I have trawled the internet and indeed these forums to try and find a solution, but there is nothing that has worked. Restarting without Dashboard, killing every process possible, driver updates, OS updates, several different sets of batteries, unisntalling and reinstalling, tools to boost the speed of the mouse, the lot. I know my Bluetooth works fine, after having synced with several phones and other laptops without a hitch. Nothing will work, and worse still, everything I have read on the subject is related to the Wireless Mighty Mouse, effectively rendering the advice useless. Also, nobody seems to have had quite as dramatic a problem with it as myself.
The lag is unbearable. I have used wireless mouse and keyboards for years and they work wonderfully. The delay is probably about a quarter of a second, and the cursor jumps and stutters so it is not only a case of it moving slowly but behind my actions. I have noticed that the very moment I turn it on, if I move it quickly back and forth, I get a moment's teaser of how the mouse should work, with a smooth fluid action, but just for a second before the relentless stuttering. The buttons are unresponsive too.
I have checked the area for interference. I've disconected power supplies, turned off my phone's bluetooth, turned off my phone completely, turned off Airport, turned off my external Hard Drive, unplugged all cables. I am completely at a loss as to what the problem is, short of the mouse being broken in some way. But the seller is adament it was in working order (I doubt their honesty, and indeed, their intelligence after I told them I was using it with my MacBook Pro, and the responded asking if I was using it with a Mac and if I'd swopped the batteries).
So, does anybody out there have a clue if I'm right?Elaborating on this still, as of yet, unsolved problem I'm having, I encounter an error whenever I download and try to run the apple wireless keyboard and mouse firmware 1.1. update. I try to open the .app and it fails every time, after numerous times of reinstalling, restarting, redownloading, the lot.
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My Macbook Pro shows the Apple and spinning wheel at startup but will not continue the startup. Does anybody know how to get past this, so the computer continues to startup?
Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a boot failure is to secure your data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since your last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to boot. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Boot into the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.”
b. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, boot the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
c. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. The easiest way to deal with the problem is to boot from an external drive, or else to use either of the techniques in Steps 1b and 1c to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a boot failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to boot, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can boot now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've booted from an external storage device, make sure that your internal boot volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Boot in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you boot in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, your boot volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 6.
If you can boot and log in now, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on your boot volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the boot process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select your startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then reboot as usual.
Step 9
Reinstall the OS. If your Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 10
Repeat Step 9, but this time erase the boot volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer your data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 11
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a boot failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 12
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider. -
I bought a second hand G4 iBook with iLife 09 on it. I have copied iLife to my new Macbook Pro. The applications would not open, so I did a software update and update all three applications, but they will still not open. Can anyone help?
The seller should have given you the original disk so that you can reinstall as needed. But it likely was a single-user license (which really means single computer) so you can only have a copy on one computer at a time. If the seller didn't give you the disk he is probably still using the software on his new Mac. Your best option to get any of the iWork apps to use in OS X 10.6.6 or later is through the Mac App Store. You can then install them on any Mac you have that has access to the Mac App Store using your Apple ID.
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Hi!
I recently bought the new MacBook Pro with the new retina display, but since it does not have a dvd/cd drive, I was going to buy an external one. I think I will be able to use it to watch dvds, but can I also play the computergame The Sims 3 on it? If not is there anything else I can do?
Thank you!Welcome to Apple Support Communities
You can try formatting the external drive on your eMac using Disk Utility and choosing a well-known format > http://pondini.org/OSX/DU1.html. It's quite possible that your new iMac would be able to read it, but first, tell us which formats Disk Utility lists.
If you have those songs in iTunes, simply go to Music folder and copy the iTunes folder to the external drive. Then, connect it to the iMac and copy the iTunes folder to Music folder.
If they are not in iTunes, copy your songs to the external drive. Then, connect it to your new iMac, open iTunes and drag the songs into it -
I have a Canon Vixia HV30 and would like to know if I can transfer video from it to a new MacBook Pro? The camcorder has a HDV/DV output. Is that compatible with firewire?
Hi Codye24
I don't know if you saw this thread
Connecting a Canon HV30 camcorder vai a thunderbolt port to a new imac
Hope that this helps
Kevin -
How do you get the Apple Wireless Keyboard to accept function keys?
I use the Apple Wireless Keyboard with my iPad2 and I use the VPN to connect to my work-related software which requires that I use some of the function keys as actual F1, F2, F3,...etc. When I hit F2, the iPad2 responds with the Screen Brighter action. How do I get the keyboard input to just be F2? Thanks!
Jeff LehmerThanks. But I tried that and nothing happens. I've looked though all the System Preferences sections and can't find anything on this.
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I cannot shut dow my MacBook Pro using the apple icon (as it was suppose to be), actually I have to press and hold the on/off buttom. I have taken twice for Mac dealer and they did not solve the problem. What must I do? I would to remark that I have installed 2 antivirus and uninstalled one of them. Since then I have facing this troublesome issue. Thanks
Uninstall the other AV software. They are not needed. All they do is cause trouble like you are having now.
If you have been forcing the Mac to shut down with the power switch you may nave corrupted your disk. You should repair it with disk Utilty to remove any corruption the shutdwons may have cased.
Allan -
I can't transfer my info from my old Macbook (Year 2006) to my new MacBook Pro. The Fire Wire Cable changed !
Excuse my English, I am French writing from Paris, France
ThanksAll you need, if you've the non-Retina model, is a FireWire 400 to FireWire 800 cable -> such as this one from Amazon.
I know that there's a UK Amazon - can you order from there? Or is there a French Amazon as well?
Good luck,
Clinton -
Hi, when powering up my macbook pro, when the apple symbol appears the screen flashes pink, can anyone advise whats up?
You can try a system reinstall:
Reinstalling Lion Without Erasing the Drive
Boot to the Recovery HD: Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions: Upon startup select Disk Utility from the main menu. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions as follows.
When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the main menu.
Reinstall Lion: Select Reinstall Lion and click on the Continue button.
Note: You can also re-download the Lion installer by opening the App Store application. Hold down the OPTION key and click on the Purchases icon in the toolbar. You should now see an active Install button to the right of your Lion purchase entry. There are situations in which this will not work. For example, if you are already booted into the Lion you originally purchased with your Apple ID or if an instance of the Lion installer is located anywhere on your computer.
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