New Samsung 40' has popping noise

I bought my husband a 40" samsung tv for Christmas. There is a popping sound whenever the channel is changed and sometimes even when it is not being changed. Shall I return it or call for service. I am still within the 30 days of purchase. I did not take an extended warranty and don't want to be stuck with a lemon.

For the OP and Star do you have the TV's plugged directly into the wall or into a Surge protector? It could be the outlet that its plugged into if its only happening on those TV's (not sure how many each of you have) by the varying voltage if you have a problem like that. I had a problem like this when I first moved in my apartment and basically the voltage would spike up to 125-130 volts and I am not sure what it did but hte amplifier was pushing more wattage or transferring that voltage to the speakers causing them to Pop or have the voicecoil extend past its normal range also causing a lot of distortion. It was old 2 wire that was in the house and I replaced it with 3 wire and also got rid of the circuit breaker and replace that with a new one and never had a problem again.

Similar Messages

TS1398 My new Iphone 5 is in wi-fi mode but not connecting to my home network.I am certain that it is not my router since my wifes new Iphone 5 has no problem connecting.I dont get to the point of entering my password as a pop up tells me "uable to join..

My new IPhone 5 does not pick up my home network.My wife's new Iphone 5 has no such issue.I get a message "unable to connect' although the correct network appears.Never get to the prompt screen asking for my network password.Keeps trying to connect but never does.Have switched on /off button and turnesd off phone back on several times.

Settings > General > Reset > Reset Network Settings
Power cycle the router.

MacBook EFI Firmware has the popping noise gone for you?

Installed the firmware upgrade today and eagerly hoped the annoying popping noise would magically disappear. Hope disappeared instead - it is still popping away. Any one else have a different experience?
Message was edited by: macvicar

I installed the EFI Firmware update 1.5 on April 14th. I'm using a Motu 828mkII with GarageBand and Logic and I now have the popping noise (a "vinyl", popping sound that seems to happen during recording, sometimes during playback).
Does anyone know why this was introduced? From other posts it appears that this was already a problem but I never had it until I installed the 1.5 update.
Another reason to not take the latest updates i guess...this is really frustrating. I also updated my Motu drivers but that did nothing. It appears this is definitely related to the firmware since I see all the other posts here in the Apple support forums.
Anyone from Apple out there??

New Samsung 206BW Monitor for MBP SR

Earlier today I purchase a new Samsung 206BW from Circuit City and I can't believe my eyes..
I did have to change the display profile from the SyncMaster to the Adobe RGB (1998) to get better color depth...but man this thing is amazingly bright.
I heard some noise about insuring to get the 206BW model with the "S" at the end of somewhere.......For anyone that has this monitor where is the "S" suppose to be?
Model Code: LS20MEWSFV/XAA
Type No: GH20WS.
Regards

Anyone

Pop Noise from Audio Out While Using iTunes 9.0.1

I have a black MacBook with Leopard 10.5.8 and iTunes 9.0.1. I have a a pair of computer speakers plugged to the MacBook's audio out minijack. Every time I run iTunes to play my music everything goes fine until I stop the music (you know with the space bar or the stop button). 30 seconds after I stop the music a loud pop noise comes up and stops, as if some electrical device was receiving a charge of electricity. When I play music back again on iTunes, the same noise comes up again with the music and goes away immediately while the music continues all right.
This is what I have done so far:
Change my energy saving parameter to several different configurations (perhaps the hard drive stopping when unused was the cause) but none fix it.
Turned off Airport...did not fix it
I timed the pop noise and it happens exactly 30 seconds after I stop my music on iTunes and then again 30 seconds after music has been stopped unless I start playing the music back again and the pop noise sounds again.
Any help would be appreciated as I use my MacBook to play music sequences for my band (I am the drummer) so the darn noises come through our PA system (and I also tried my small computer speakers and it does the same thing).
Thanks,

I spent a good amount of time reading several discussions. Apple is aware of this issue but no solution as of yet. The popping noise is "normal" behavior and happens because of how the sound system is programmed in the computer.
The solution (sorry for the bad news) is to not use the audio out minijack at all. Instead, get an audio interface that connects to your USB port and then route the output signal from your audio interface to your speakers, headphones or PA system. The popping noise will not sound. I tested it several times.
If the only cable you have is a minijack male type then go to Radio Shack and get adapters. I had to get me an adapter that takes two RCA males and converts them to a female minijack type.
Good luck.

FIOS router causing static and popping noises on computer audio

Hi, I'm a less than two week old FIOS internet user and am loving the speed and service but I have one problem. The FIOS router seems to be causing static popping noises my desktop computers audio that is connected to the FIOS router by the yellow Ethernet cable. Theses noises don't occur on any of the laptops connected to the router by the wireless or when I connect a laptop to the router via a Ethernet cable.
Ways I found to eliminate the noises temporary:
Restarting the desktop computer or shutting down then turning on the desktop computer.
Ways I found to eliminate the noises permanently
Turning off and unplugging the router.
Hooking up the FIOS router via the Ethernet cable to a laptop. I unfortunately do not have a wireless built into my desktop.
What I've tried and failed
First I thought it was the Ethernet cable, so I replaced it. The noises did not go away.
I thought it might be the headset I use which are connected to the computer by a usb port. Unplugging the headset and using earphones which are connect to the computer by the audio slot did not eliminate the noises.
Then I contacted Verizon, and they thought it might be a faulty router, so they sent me a new one. The noises unfortunately did not go away.
I then thought the noises might be occurring because the router was close to the computer. So I moved the router as far away as possible from the computer (its connect to the router by a Ethernet cable so it wasn't that far) but the noises didn't go away.
Notes & Points
The noises do not start the moment I turn on the router and computer, but a hour or two after.
I think I've narrowed the problem down to occurring only when the desktop computer is connected to the router by the Ethernet cable. Though replacing the Ethernet cable has not resolved the issue.
I also have found that location of the FIOS router also doesn't matter since the noises did not return even though the router was right up against the computer when I connected the FIOS router to my laptop.
I have Windows 7 Home Premium 64, 3.5 gigs of ram, and a dual 2.0 GHz processor.
So that sums up my problem. If you guys have any tips or ideas of how to fix my issue, it would be greatly appreciated.

Sounds like a shielding problem on the AUDIO cables or a grounding issue. PC sound systems are notorious for having lousy audio cables feeding (I regularly pickup the local FM station on my speakers).
Try replacing the audio cables with better quality shield cables and see if that helps.
Are the router, speakers, and PC all plugged into the same outlet? Are they all polarized plugs? If note, try flipping the power plug on the non-polarized connections.
The sound could be coming from interference INSIDE the PC itself ... the proximity of sound cables inside and the audio chipset to the ethernet chipset. You didn't indicate if the audio/ethernet are on the motherboard or seperate cards. If they are seperate cards, try relocating the cards furfher from one another inside the chassis and also look at the audio cable (particularly the analog cable that runs from the CD to the audio card to make sure it's not routed past or near the ethernet electronics.
How far distant is the router from the PC? If you pull the ethernet cable from the router (not turn if off, unplug the ethernet cable running to the PC), does it stop?

Final Cut 10.1.1 Export Issues & Popping Noise

I've been having some very strange problems that I've never heard of before in Final Cut. First off, I downloaded historical footage I needed for this edit from Youtube as .MP4's, cut them together with some audio, and had everything ready to go. Inside of Final Cut, play back was great. I then tried exporting, and I got the "The share operation "Master File" has failed. The operation could not be completed because an error occurred when creating frame 80 (error -1)." The frame number changed between frame 80 and frame 23, seemingly at random. I started out by Goggleing. I tried deleteing my render files, turning off background render, deleteing my preferences, making a new project and pasting everything in, duplicating the project, and more. Absolutely nothing worked. I then started the process of elimination, and deleted parts of by timeline to find the problem. As it turns out, I had to delete my two compound clips (both only audio) and put them in the timeline without a compound clip. It then finally exported, only to find that one of my clips had a ridiculous popping noise, exactly like the Final Cut 10.0 bug. I've tried changing my sample rate, converting the video, exporting the orginal clip's audio with Quicktime then syncing it with the clip in Final Cut, and even just adding an effect to see what happens. The popping still remains. Any ideas? I couldn't find anyone on the web with this problem that's back from the dead. Being able to use compund clips would make the edit a whole lot easier too. Thoughts?
Here's my computer specs, if they help:
2011 27' iMac
Quad core i7 processor with four virtual cores (8 cores total)
16 gigabytes of RAM
256 gigabyte SSD
2TB HDD (I've tried transfering the edit to both drives, no luck.)
At this point I'm ready to reinstall Final Cut, but I haven't done it before, and I don't know what it entails. I'd prefer not to lose prefernces, etc. In general, I'd rather not have to do that though.

Luis, just to add to my previous post, I just found a removal process online that is specifally for removal from Mavericks. Can you verify if this is the one to use over FCS Remover (which I think is for previous versions). Here is what I found:
In Finder, choose Applications from the Go menu.
Locate the Final Cut Pro application and drag it to the Trash.
In Finder, hold down the Option key and choose Library from the Go menu.
In the Library folder that opens, open the Application Support folder. Move the Final Cut Pro folder to the Trash.
Return to the Library folder and open the Caches folder. Move the "com.apple.FinalCut" folder to the Trash.
Return to the Library folder and open the Preferences folder. Move the following files to the Trash:
com.apple.FinalCut.LSSharedFileList.plist
com.apple.FinalCut.plist
com.apple.FinalCut.UserDestinations.plist
I just want to make sure so I don't have any problems with a fresh download from the Apple Store.
Thank you again!

New PB 15" emits static noise from keyboard area

Immediately after purchasing a new 15" PB there is a low crackle/popping noise coming from the keyboard area when the machine is on. It is loud enough to be heard from 5-8' away when working in a relatively quite work environment.The sound is also muted so I know that isnt' it.
Spent an hour on the phone with applecare and they have had my PB since Monday morning with the 'Hold - Engineering' note pasted on the support website.
Has anyone had similar problems?

I myself have a titanium and a G5 (and have tested other aluminum powerbooks) that exhibit this behavior when the following conditions are met:
previewing movies or audio in the Finder
firewire or pcmcia soundcard attached and being used
some applications cause this to be louder. it is more noticable when the processor performance is set to "highest" in the energy saver control panel.
since you have a newer 'book, and there is no processor performance drop-down, i am curious about this. i have found it to be more noticeable on the aluminum powerbooks actually. probably just because the G5 is sitting under my desk as oppossed to in front me.
just look around the forums for the word "sizzle" and you will read more about it. From my understanding this is standard and the noise is caused by the processor napping. Most people who are annoyed by this have installed CHUD (from Apple developer tools) to turn off processor napping. This makes the noise go away but it also does not sleep the processor. This shorten battery life and the fans to go on sooner since the powerbook runs hotter with this off.

Popping noise in display

hi everyone
my friend told me about this discussion, very cool. I'm new here so bear with me.
i bought a black macbook a few months ago and i love it. however, i noticed that when i open the display past 90 degrees, it will start to make a plastic popping noise.
the following week i brought it to the local apple store and the guy took it for a day or so then called me to tell me its normal but he made some adjustments.
when i got home i noticed that the display opened smoother and the pop noise was more silent but now it has come back.
is this just 'nature of the beast' for this computer or should i bring it back? i had a dell before and it didnt pop but it wasnt as fancy as this one

"when my son took it in for me he said that the repair mac guy told him that it may creak a little because it is black ?"
Well as crazy as that sounds from all I've seen it's the black MacBooks that make the creaking. I really don't see why that would make a difference but it does. I mean it shouldn't make any noise but mine does and I haven't worried too much about it since I open it, it creaks and I go about my business. If it was a constant noise I'd be all over it but.......

Popping noise in one earphone?

I bought a 4s about 3 months ago, and have been using the new earphones with it. In the last few days, as I'll be listning to music, there has been a popping noise coming from just one of the earphones. It doesn't sound like an electronic pop, like coming from the music or whatever, but it sounds like there is actually something clicking/popping inside the earphone. Could there literally be something inside that's doing that? Or is it a software issue that sounds like a physically created noise? Can I get my headohones replaced?

There cheaply manufactured headphones.. Throw them away and buy a third party set from somewhere else or if you need to have the white Apple headphones go to eBay and buy another pair...

Loud Popping Noise when wake from sleep

On my new iMac CD 20" there is a load popping noise that comes from the speakers when I wake it up from sleep. Also, the hard-drive or the super-drive clicks a few when waken from sleep. Yesterday there was a static noise coming from the speakers while I was using the machine on the web, it was load enough to be annoying, I restarted it and the sound went any. I am wondering if any others have noticed this problem and should I take it back for a new one.
My wife has even said that the sounds don't seem right.
Any feedback would be great!
Thanks.
20" Intel iMac and 12 P-book- 867 MHz Mac OS X (10.4.4)

I conducted some tests on my iMac, and the problem, as it were, is related to having external speakers connected to my iMac. When I unplug my external speakers (JBL Encounter), I do not hear the pop upon waking my iMac from sleep. When I plug the speakers in again, the pop returns. I do not hear the pop when I mute the speakers before putting the iMac to sleep, either.
To rule out other devices, I unplugged all external devices and then reconnected them one at a time. Only the speakers triggered the pop.
I don't think this is a defect necessarily, even though I never heard the popping sound when waking my iMac G5 from sleep (with the same set of speakers). I think it may, as I suggest above, have something to do with the change in processors.
I may call Apple just the same to see what its tech. support people have to say on the matter.
Do those others of you experiencing the popping sound also have external speakers?

My computer froze so i restarted it, and now that its back on every document i'v worked on has popped up on my desktop and will not exit. what should i do?

my computer froze so i restarted it, and now thats its back on every document i've work on has popped up on the desk top and wont exit. what sould i do?
it is a macbook pro, OS X mountain lion 10.8.2, i can open new windows and exit them but not all the pop ups

Start from your recovery system. OS X Lion or OS X Mountain Lion includes a built in set of utilities in the Recovery System. Restart your Mac and hold down the Command key and the R key (Command-R), and keep holding them until the Apple icon appears, indicating that your Mac is starting up. After the Recovery System is finished starting up, you should see a desktop with a OS X menu bar and a "Mac OS X Utilities" application window. Note: If you see a login window or your own desktop and icons, it is possible that you didn't hold Command-R early enough. Restart and try again.
When your computer finishes starting up, choose Disk Utility from the Utilities window.
Click the First Aid tab. Click the disclosure triangle to the left of the hard drive icon to display the names of your hard disk volumes and partitions.
Select your OS X volume.
Click Repair. Disk Utility checks and repairs the disk.
DALE

New version of object popping up on Deletion of T Code

Hi
I removed a Tcode from a role. This Tcode does not have any other object besides S_TCODE. However on exclusion and choosing Expert Option / Read old status and merge with new data, i see that there is a new version of a object has popped up in "NEW". The older version of that object is in the Changed mode.
From this I understand that if a standard object is changed then every time "Read old status and merge with new data" is chosen SU24 is re-read to pull out the standard object... Am i correct here?
If the above is true then as a standard practice is it right to may inactivate the standard object and manually add that object again or copy that object to bring in a new version of that object.... -
is this right?
Please advice
- ravi

Hi Ravi,
When ever you add a new tcode to a role, make sure you add the tcode in the menu of the role so that the role will pull all the authorization objects check/maintained against the tcode.
When you delete a tcode then it will automatically deletes the authorization objects associated with the tcode.
If you do a merge with new authorization data, then the role will get the new authorization objects if newly check/maintained for any tcodes from SU24.
The best practice is to always have standard/maintained authorizations for the authorization objects in the role. Manual additions of authorization objects is not advisable unless if the business requires so.
Please reward points.
Regards,
Kiran.

Connecting Macbook to new Samsung LCD

Apologies if its been asked before but I cant figure out the technical mumbo jumbo
I have a C2D Macbook with Leopard and now want to connect it to my new Samsung 26 LCD to watch videos which have been stored on my mac.
I know I have to buy a chord for that (which one) but will the picture quality be okay? The Samsung model is LA26A450C1 and it has a resolution of 1366 x 768. Do I have to plug it in AV or HDMI and is my LCD compatible with the macbook?
Again, sorry for such a basic question.
Message was edited by: Tanya Palta

You have three optional adapters to get the video signal out of the MacBook through the built-in mini-DVI port:
mini-DVI to DVI, chained with an additional DVI to HDMI adapter/cable, for the best digital signal. (recommended option)
mini-DVI to VGA, for an analog signal with a VGA/Dsub15 computer monitor cable.
mini-DVI to Video (either S-Video or Composite) for an analog signal, usually for PAL or NTSC equipment.
you will also need to run an audio cable from the little headphone jack on the MacBook to a AUX line-input on your stereo or TV.

I updated my 4s to ios7 and the phone is now completly dead. I tried to restore it with the new itunes but it won't restore. If you can't get the download be glad! Anyone have any ideas other than going out and buying a new Samsung phone?

I updated my 4s to ios7 and the phone is now completly dead. I tried to restore it with the new itunes but it won't restore. If you can't get the download be glad! Anyone have any ideas other than going out and buying a new Samsung phone? I don't really need a paper weight.

No not jailbroken. After the update which took about 45 minutes. The phone went black. Dead. Wouldn't restart. Using the new itunes I tried to restore it. It went through the motions; the white Apple and progress bar appeared on the iphone screen. Then I got a message "Itunes has detected an iphone in recovery mode. You must restore this iphone before it can be used with itunes." Then the phone went completly dead again. I Repeated the process and got the same results. Is there another way to restore the phone if it's dead, besides itunes?

New Samsung 40' has popping noise

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for